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No. 32

Winter 2009/10 Journal of the Ottery St. Mary Heritage Society

Including: The lives of Ottery FROM THE CHAIRMAN Greats p3 Our August Exhibition “Ottery – a history of the south west mining Parish at War” was an outstanding industry, showing through pictorial success with visitors packing the records how the landscapes of hall throughout the entire five-day and West were period.A huge thank-you to radically reshaped during the everyone who contributed to the eighteenth and nineteenth event – those who volunteered centuries by deep-lode mining for with research and design, the copper and tin, a vast industry that erectors and dismantlers, packers changed the landscape beyond and providers of transport – and recognition. The War of the last, but not least the volunteers who came along to ensure the And then in November, a near- Airwaves p4 occasion was the best it could be. capacity audience showed up to listen to Chris Wakefield – the title Our Autumn programme of of his talk,“How Ottery Began” monthly meetings have been well certainly aroused the curiosity of attended; our guest speakers many Ottregians, and they were delivering some of the best and not disappointed! His highly most professional presentations. In illustrated presentation covered the September, Barbara Farquharson of medieval period in the town’s the Branscombe project introduced history from the end of the Roman us to a new perspective on the occupation through to the ignominious end to the MSC foundation of Grandisson’s Napoli. From her expanding ecclesiastical college in the 1330s. Competition Spot library of pictures she took us The stunning visual fly-through of returns - p8 behind the media headlines, a digital model of the college as it dominated by environmental issues would have appeared when first and salvage operations, to examine completed brought gasps of how the disaster affected local astonishment from the audience individuals and, through personal and appreciative applause for an stories, the different ways villagers excellent presentation. reacted to the disruption in their lives. .../cont page 8 Letters, articles or any other At our October meeting, Dr submissions to the Journal can be Robert Symes, OBE gave an emailed to www.otteryheritage.org.uk illustrated presentation on the [email protected]

1 Editorial Forthcoming Events Website Unless otherwise noted, all the Society's meetings are held in the Institute,Yonder Street, Ottery St. Mary. The Society has finally bitten the bullet and dragged itself into the 21st century with a website. It’s a homemade affair, 2010 and will probably not win many prizes, except possibly for • Jan. 12th 2010 (Tuesday) 7.30 pm the resources that will eventually be available thereon for and its Medicine local and family historians interested in Ottery. It is An illustrated talk recommended you try it out, and email the editor of this Speaker: Christopher Gardner-Thorpe journal with comments and suggestions. Keep in mind, though, that it is once again the usual suspects who are • Feb. 16th (Tuesday) 7.30 pm operating the new website, so there may be a while A Potted History of Wiggaton between receipt of a marvellous idea and its eventual A talk on aspects of the history of Wiggaton with artefacts implementation. www.otteryheritage.org.uk crafted from local materials. Speaker:Vaughan Glanville Publications • Mar. 16th (Tuesday) 7.30 pm Not content with our adventures in new technology, the Slavery and Two Ottery Families trustees are keen to step up our publications list, to include, A talk on possible connections between Ottery families and amongst other things, some long overdue local record the Slave Trade publishing, starting early in the New Year with the 1327 Speaker: Gillian Allen and 1332 Lay Subsidy returns (medieval tax lists detailing names and sometimes locations, of 14th century Ottregians) • Apr. 20th (Tuesday) 7.30 pm together with some interpretation and commentary to help The Plight of the Honeybee (in Devon) you get the most from these fascinating documents. I still An illustrated talk on the practicalities of present-day live in hopes of a revived record transcription group, which bee-keeping will make a start on the many records that lie untouched Speaker: Roger Lacey and unread in DRO and elsewhere. Just to whet your • May 18th (Tuesday) 7.30 pm appetite, see the back page under the competition. The Three Hares Emblem Letters An illustrated talk on the myths and mysteries surrounding this sign The journal is the place you can ask questions and send in notes and suggestions, at any time, of any length, in any Speaker: Sue Andrew medium, in any language, from anywhere on the planet. I • June 15th (Tuesday) 7.30 pm want to know what you’ve seen on walks, bits of history Annual General Meeting you’ve heard about, what your Dad/Grandad told you, • July 20th (Tuesday) 7.30 pm and onwards what you liked / disliked about a recent meeting - Programme to be announced anything - really - just anything to offer comfort that we are actually doing what you, the membership, wants done. I was thinking we should quadruple subscriptions at the Heritage Society Trustees Hon Chairman Robert Neal 813686 AGM.Any thoughts? Hon Secretary Chris Saunders 812962 Hon Treasurer Jim Woolley 812176 Coleridge Hazel Abley The Society has initiated a project to secure a more fitting John Pilsworth 812737 Chris Wakefield 815262 commemoration of the most famous and accomplished Betty Williams 814044 Ottregian of all time (so far) - Samuel Taylor Coleridge. I Oliver Wilson 815262 say initiated, because the project is not to be solely a Co-opted members Heritage effort, and is designed to attract broad support, in Membership Sec. Judy Mullinger 813019 Sue Dymond Ottery and possibly further afield.The “Coleridge Articles or letters can be emailed to the Journal at Memorial Garden” (or “Park” - it’s not clear what the final [email protected] choice will be) would be somewhere in the Land of www.otteryheritage.org.uk Canaan, carefully designed to enhance the existing amenity areas, and with luck, and some funds yet to be raised, to include an inspirational memorial to the poet. More Letters, articles or any other submissions to the information from the TIC, or the Heritage Website. Journal can be emailed to [email protected] Editor more information at www.otteryheritage.org.uk 2 Outstanding Ottregians of the Past Lucy Channon on the lives of Ottery worthies to be a brilliant scholar. At Oxford University he devoted himself to the study of Divinity and gained a reputation as a ‘worthy preacher’. He was first appointed as ‘Domestick Chaplain’ to Henry Earl of Pembroke and Knight of the Garter. One of his tasks was to assist the Earl’s wife, Mary Sidney, in an exact translation of the left:The Beaumont psalms into English metre. His next memorial in move was to Wales, where he Gittisham Church, became Treasurer to the church of commissioned by his Llanduff.Thence in 1591 he was wife, (who is also consecrated Bishop of Llanduff. His commemorated - stay in Wales was fairly short, for in kneeling behind 1595 he was ‘translated to the See Henry). Beaumont in Exeter’.Two hundred years later Cottages, north west of John Prince, in writing a brief Alfington, would have biography of Gervais, informs us been named in his that ‘He continued no long time at memory. Exeter, this long enough to do that of this estate. Little is known of his church an irreparable injury; but, Henry Beaumont life but after his death he is we hope, against his will, as being has been the remembered for his generosity to over-awed by avaricious greatness birthplace of, or closely associated the poor of Ottery. In March 1590 rather than biased by any private with, several well known people he made a will, He left £800 to interest, which we cannot fairly who have made their mark in the purchase areas of land,‘the rents suppose in so great a man’.The world. Notable among these are of and profits deriving therefrom to ‘irreparable-injury’ was to sell off course the poet Samuel Taylor be given to the poor of Ottery St ‘the rich and noble manor of Coleridge, the diplomat Sir Ernest Mary, Gittisham, and ’ thus reducing Satow, and Joanna Southcott, the Sidbury’. Henry died a year later considerably the area of Exeter’s prophetess, all of whose stories and his wishes were carried out. property and influence. Despite, or have beer told in previous editions He was long remembered for his perhaps because of this, Bishop of this journal. However, the generous charity to the poor and a Gervais was again ‘translated’ this history of Ottery traces back for commemorative marble monument time to Worcester.After three years centuries, and although records are was erected on the wall of in this office he was finally few, shadowy figures emerge from Gittisham church, where he lies ‘translated to Heaven’. He died of those earlier centuries, of relatively buried in the south aisle. jaundice. He left his large and rare a people who made their mark valuable library to the church of locally, if not nationally. One such Gervais Babington Worcester where he lies was Henry Beaumont. In the latter In the 16th century, John buried.Throughout his life he was half of the 15th century the noted for his preaching:- ‘He was nephew of a Sir Thomas Beaumont Babington, 5th son of Sir John Babington of Nottinghamshire, an excellent pulpit man, for having inherited various lands and estates gotten up the affections of his on the death of his uncle.Among came to dwell in Devon. He married Margaret, heir of Robert auditory he would keep them to these was the Estate of Gittisham. the end of his sermon’. Three generations later Henry Knolle ‘of Knolle, in or near Beaumont, a direct descendent of Ottery St Mary’.They had three Lucy Channon Sir Thomas, came into possession sons,one of whom was father to Gervais Babington. Gervais proved

3 (It was reported elsewhere that 15 took off, 2 turned back and 2 were THE WAR OF THE shot down - one at Payhembury). It was only with the approach of the Exhibition “Ottery - a Parish at War” - in August 2009 - that this snippet assumed a greater degree of AIRWAVES importance for Ottery.Where was this station and just how did it perform Chris Saunders pursues the secrets of radio warfare in and the function for which it was around Ottery constructed? The answer to the first question was quickly ascertained - a building just inside the boundary hedge of what is called the ‘14 acre field’ just at the top of the rise of the old A30 road above Fairmile has long been known locally as ‘the RAF hut’, and this seemed to be the only remaining evidence of the site (see Fig.1). Fortunately, there are still local residents who remember some details of the site, and it has thus been possible to build up a picture of its layout and purpose. WAS IST KNICKEBEIN? As WW2 grew in intensity from the time of the “Battle of Britain”, both Britain and Germany relied The booklet “Death on a Spring Night” diverted and running out of fuel by Robin Stanes and Jim Watts, landed near Deal in Kent believing increasingly on night-time bombing published in July 2006, formed the the airfield to be in NE France. [A operations.Whilst this lessened the risk of detection when compared with basis for the play “Foresight” number of] JU 88s were not diverted performed by the Payhembury on May 17th 1941, and eleven got daytime missions, it increased the Community Theatre in 2007. through to Birmingham.” problems of accurately locating the intended target. Britain relied on The following passage was contained astro-navigation, but Germany in the booklet:

“The Germans did not do much Fig.1 - The RAF Hut at Fairmile visual night navigation. Instead they flew along directional radio beams which transmitted a constant signal that the aircraft could pick up and stick to.This was called the Knickebein system. If the signal changed the plane was “off course” and the navigator had to search for and pick up the correct signal again. These beams also gave the plane the moment to drop its bombs. British radar counter measures to the Knickebein system could reflect or divert the radio beam to put the German bombers off course.There was one such “beam bending” unit near the former Fairmile Inn on the old A30. One German bomber so

4 developed what became known as the DEFENSIVE back, although this sometimes had the “Knickebein” (this means literally unfortunate result in bombs being ‘crooked leg’) System. COUNTER- dropped casually on other MEASURES unsuspecting locations. Incidentally This technique involved two radio the German radio beams were code- transmitters, situated possibly several Whilst British Intelligence were aware named ‘Headaches’ whilst the British hundred miles apart.The ‘main-beam’ of the existence of this technique, it jamming transmitters were named transmitter output was switched was well into 1940 before any form of ‘Aspirins’. Once the German High between two halves of the antenna, counter-measure could be deployed. Command realised that their system sending a series of ‘dots’ from one Jamming the German radio beams was had been compromised, and that the side, alternating with a series of the first attempt to render them confidence and morale of their forces ‘dashes’ from the other side.The two useless, but due to lack of equipment, had slipped, they gave up the system, radio beams were narrow, but had an this was a crude method and not very but not the struggle. area of overlap inside which the successful. It has been reported that Luftwaffe pilots would only hear the jamming transmitters were located at DEVELOPMENTS equisignal - a continuous tone.This Straightway Head and Gittisham In order to improve bombing indicated that they were on course, Common. accuracy, a more sophisticated system and any deviation would be signalled named “X-Gerät” (literally X- by hearing either only dots or dashes A team led by the well-known apparatus) was developed. Here, an (see Fig.2).The second transmitter scientist R.V.Jones developed a simple aircraft flying along the main beam, broadcast the ‘cross-beam’ which was a method of rendering the beam signals would meet three cross-beams - the continuous tone on a different radio either ineffective or misleading. first was a get-ready signal, the second frequency, and this was directed at the Thanks to the efforts of the Enigma and third were met at exactly 10 and 5 intended bombing target.The bomber code-breaking teams at Bletchley Km respectively from the target.The pilots would be listening out for this Park, advance warning of some radio operator would use a form of second beam, and the point at which bombing raids was already available. stopwatch which calculated the this beam crossed the ‘main-beam’ told On such nights, a transmitter at a site airspeed and automatically triggered them that they were over their target in would start transmitting the bomb-release at the designated and should drop their deadly cargo. the ‘dots’ signal and, as the distance time. Counter-measures were This technique was accurate for area increased between the bombers and developed in which a false third beam bombing, but could not pin-point the signal originating in Germany, the was set to cross the main beam individual small targets.The first two false signal would replace it and prematurely, so the automatic system transmitting stations were built in thence cause the incoming German dropped the bombs short of the 1940 in Germany, one in the north bombers to follow a different course, target. Because different radio and the other in southern Germany. hence the term ‘beam bending’.When frequencies were used, new Ten other sites followed later in the the false signal met the cross-beam, it transmitters had to be designed and Low Countries and in France. was intended that the bombs would be dropped well away from the target, built - these were code-named hopefully in open country. It could ‘Bromides’. even confuse the pilots into turning The third round of this war of nerves Fig. 2 - The Knickebein System found the British ready with counter- measures in place even before the Germans started up their new “Y- Gerät” system - this was due to a brilliant stroke of intuitive guesswork. A single, pulsed, radio beam was used in this system, which was received by the aircraft and immediately reflected back to a central control point in Germany.This enabled the aircraft’s position to be ascertained accurately, so information on any deviation from the planned course could be fed back to the bomber’s radio operator.The British transmitted random pulses back towards Germany, leaving their controllers unable to determine which was the true return signal from their aircraft.

5 At this point, the Germans decided puzzling that he had to be signed in An electrical supply was readily that the British were just too smart for and out on every visit! available from the High voltage line them, and no further developments which ran north-south just above the took place of radio navigational aids Six block huts were constructed in the quarry at Fairmile (over the football for their bombing missions. main field, whilst the perimeter of the pitch which can be discerned to the whole site was secured by a wire mesh east of the station!). Cables were laid OFFENSIVE fence.The one hut still in existence underground to all the huts, and at the was the main administration building end of the RAF tenure of the field, COUNTER- (visible in the top right corner of the supply was disconnected from the MEASURES Fig.3), whilst the other five were transformer and cables were just left. constructed in an east-west line in the This caused problems as soon as the Whereas the beams described in the middle of the field to house the radio foregoing paragraphs were very farmer started to return the field to transmitters which it is reported were agricultural purposes - the plough narrow in width, radio beacons were provided and installed by the Marconi also used to transmit navigational would frequently become snarled up Wireless Coy. Each hut was with lengths of cable, necessitating a signals to assist German aircraft in surrounded by an anti-blast wall, with finding their way back home after a halt to work whilst they were little more than the roof visible from disentangled.A large pile of recovered bombing raid.These signals were very the field, and each transmitter hut had broad in width (or could even be cable and wire was taken away on a its own wooden and steel mast to low-loader later.The huts and bases omnidirectional).After jamming was support the antenna wires which tried and found not to be very from the centre of the field were, radiated the false radio beams.The however, broken up and the resulting successful, the technique was antennae would have been installed to developed of receiving the signals in debris dumped at the southern edge radiate their beams in northerly of the field; much of it remains there England and re-transmitting them on direction. It is assumed that the white the identical frequency.The pilots to this day.Allan Tratt remembered blocks visible on Fig.3 indicate the that the field had been ploughed after would be unable to determine which footprints of the five equipment huts, was the correct signal, and therefore the RAF moved out (in 1945), so it which measure about 15 by 12 ft. interesting to note that the outline of could be diverted from their course. whilst the main (existing) hut was 30 There is evidence that beacon signals the bases of the radio huts are still by 15 ft.An additional small building apparent on the aerial survey were picked up by a receiving station to the southeast of the main building at Honiton and relayed to Fairmile photograph (Fig. 3) which was taken housed an emergency electrical in 1947.The photograph shows other from whence they would be re- generator driven by a diesel engine. transmitted. (straight line) markings which cannot The operational flexibility of the site be explained at the present time. RAF FAIRMILE was enhanced by using mobile counter-measure such as those The field above the Fairmile Inn was transmitting equipment installed in a described were the responsibility of one of several sites chosen in southern converted bus.This vehicle has been No.80 (Signals) Wing of the RAF.For England for the siting of electronic described as having blacked-out many years, the operations of this counter-measures stations late in 1940. windows and was normally parked in formation were highly classified, and The field known as ’14 acre field’ was the field to the west. requisitioned by the Air Ministry, as was a portion of the next field to the Fig.3 - Aerial Photo of Site of RAF Fairmile west. Both fields were bounded on the north side by the A30 main road.The fields formed part of the Escot Estate, and have been in the hands of the Vinnicombe family as tenants since they moved to Taleford Farm from Farway on Christmas Day 1940.A former employee on the farm,Allan Tratt, well remembers arriving as a young lad at Christmas-time with the family. He described the RAF station as being under construction at that time, so it is presumed that the site became operational in the Spring of 1941. During the five-year tenure of the RAF,he was frequently detailed to trim the grass in the field, but found it

6 even today information is not easy to some names of other RAF personnel access.This is understandable in view who had been billeted at #10 Yonder Is This Not a of the fact that Fairmile was Street during WW2. They included designated as the Southwest Regional Les Darton,‘Arry Harrap (despatch HQ for other stations operated by rider) and George Nesbitt. Motte? No.80 Wing, RAF.Other out-stations (each with a single hut and mast) were A surviving member of No.80 located at Regis, Gittisham (Signals) Wing, Peter Giles (who lives Common (where the two radio masts in Ottery), remembers the Fairmile are now), Straight, and station when he was temporarily possibly others locally which gathered, stationed at the (then) Long Range and fed information back, to Fairmile. Hotel at Straightway Head in 1944, Other WW2 military sites were but knew little about the operations located at Highbridge and Watchet in there, such was the security , which were possibly part of surrounding such operational sites. He the SW network. In addition, the was allocated to No.62 Mobile Signals “Round Ball Hill”, as it is on the OS southern approaches to Britain were Unit, which followed the Allied maps, or “Tit Hill” in the local protected by a chain of radar stations advance across Europe after the vernacular, is another Ottery-based landscape history puzzle awaiting which gave early warning of the Normandy Invasion.The only person approach of German aircraft. The solution.The shape of this hill, which traced to date who was known to sits behind Round Ball Farm in nearest one to Ottery was located at have worked at RAF Fairmile, as a Wiggaton (SY107937), has inspired Beer. Other military sites in this area radio operator, Cpl. Ray Westerway, historians and archaeologists over included searchlight units positioned more than a generation to speculate at Talaton and on Gittisham regrettably died two weeks before the about its significance. Common, presumably for the defence author had hoped to interview him. The search continues for a surviving Frances Rose-Troupe, a distinguished of RAF Exeter airfield. historian and sometime resident of member of the many RAF personnel Ottery St Mary in the 1930s (she lived Some local residents of the time posted to the Station during its 5 years in Bradleigh End - on Longdogs remember certain details of the existence who may be able to add to Lane), put forward an argument that it Fairmile station.The C.O. of the unit the current stock of knowledge. is an artificially heightened mound, was Squadron Leader Thompson, who and was formerly known as was billeted at Fairmile Vicarage. Although many details remain to be “Wicganbeorg”, being the site of the King Alfred’s Army HQ from which Flight Sgt. Roy Lane was the confirmed (for example, operational maintenance technician for all sites he sallied forth to the Battle of changes to, and the perceived Wicganbeorg mentioned in Asser’s within the local area; he was billeted effectiveness of, the Station) it is clear “Life of King Alfred” (851AD). It is a with the family of Edgar Peek, whose that Ottery St Mary played an fascinating piece of speculative history, parents then lived in Riverside Cottage but relies on a vision of the landscape important role during WW2 by in Gosford Lane. He was called out to shaped by purely military rectify faults at all hours of the day hosting a military facility which made requirements, and of the conflict and night. Unusually, he was allowed a significant contribution towards the between the English and Danes as a thwarting of Germany’s wartime continuously running large scale war, to drive his van with unhooded neither of which scenarios are now headlamps, to expedite his travelling. plans. credible in the light of recent historical and archaeolgical Taleford Farm was the temporary discoveries. home for two of the guards Chris Saunders responsible for the physical security of Even so, Round Ball Hill may have a the Station.The first two were secret to tell us. It is unlikely such a promontory would have been totally reported as Basil Rowe (from Bromley References: ignored as a potential pied-a-terre for in Kent) and Lewis Richardson (from “Death on a Spring Night” by Robin Stanes someone at sometime, but who? and Lancashire).After a couple of years, and Jim Watts when? these two were posted to another site, “Most Secret War” by Dr. R.V.Jones and were replaced by Percy Grebham Matthew Brewer, the archaeologist who was technical adviser to our 2008 and Bob Shire (both from the Taunton “Beam Benders” by Laurent Brettingham Goveton dig was very keen to press area). Ottery residents remembered Acknowledgements: on with an investigation, but time and lack of cash foreclosed any For their invaluable assistance with this article, the author opportunity to pursue it.A great Letters, articles or any other wishes to thank Philippe Planel of the EDDC/AONB shame - and another puzzle parked up submissions to the Journal can be Partnership, Marrina Neophytou of the Historic for the time being. emailed to Environment Register section at DCC, Peter Giles, Mike [email protected] Passmore, Edgar Peek,Allan Tratt, Maurice and Adrian Vinnicombe and Jim Watts. cw 7 Competition spot After a rest from the exertions of Competition No.1 (Journal No. 30), the comp is back just in time for Christmas. So while you stew in seasonal post-prandial torpor, cast a bleary eye over this picture. It is in Ottery, and existed within living memory.Your job is simply to identify it, and send word, as fast as you can, to the editor, by mail (“Melbury”, Longdogs Lane, Ottery St Mary EX11 1HX), by email ([email protected]) or whispered quietly to me in person (make sure in all cases I have a note of your name and address!). If sufficient interest arises (unless I get at least 10 replies, all bets are off), correct answers will go into a hat and the winner drawn from said hat at a From the Chairman (continued Guest speaker was the meeting in the new year. Prize is a full from page 1) distinguished author Graham bottle of passable Chardonnay or Davidson MA, who chose as his similar. I need not remind you that your chances of victory are improved Honouring Ottery’s subject ‘Coleridge’s Early Years’, the if you keep your solution to yourself. Famous Son subject of his next book, now nearing publication. Graham is Adeste fidelis, let’s see what you Our Annual Coleridge Anniversary secretary to the ‘Friends of can do. Lunch was held at the Tumbling Merry Christmas! Coleridge’, and editor of the Weir Hotel, Ottery St Mary on ‘Coleridge Bulletin’. My thanks to Peter Harris for the picture (and Saturday October 24. Heritage its no use asking him - he’s sworn to silence!) Society trustee Betty Williams Photo below: Pictured at the 2009 Coleridge Anniversary recited her poem ‘STC’ before Lunch are (L to R) Lord Coleridge, Mayor of proposing the Toast to ‘Samuel Ottery Glyn Dobson, speaker Graham Davidson, trustee Jim Woolley, Perdita Taylor Coleridge’. Davidson, trustee Chris Wakefield, Heritage NOT chairman Robert Neal. the competition Below are 4 names from the 1327 Lay Subsidy. If the top one is Adam de Holoweye, and the third William Fordeman, what are the other two? If you can work them out, or would like to able to, then you should belong to the record transcription group.Work at your own pace in your own home, all you need is a PC. email [email protected] for more details.

Articles or letters to the editor can be posted to Chris Wakefield,“Melbury” Longdogs Lane, Ottery St Mary EX11 1HX or emailed to [email protected]. Published by The Ottery St Mary Heritage Society. Printed by John Gaffney Design and Print, Ottery St. Mary tel 01404 815111

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