Quick viewing(Text Mode)

West Coast Australia 10

West Coast Australia 10

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

West Coast

Broome & the Kimberley p209

Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara p187

Monkey Mia & the Central West p169

Perth Region p100 p54 ^#

Margaret River & the South Coast WA Southwest p125 p151

Charles Rawlings-Way, Fleur Bainger, Anna Kaminski, Tasmin Waby, Steve Waters PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to PERTH ...... 54 Swan Valley West Coast Australia. . . . 4 Wine Region ...... 113 Sights...... 56 Avon Valley ...... 115 West Coast Australia Activities...... 66 Map...... 6 Northam ...... 115 Tours...... 72 West Coast Australia’s York...... 116 Festivals & Events . . . . . 73 Top 13...... 8 Toodyay...... 117 Sleeping...... 75 Need to Know...... 16 New Norcia ...... 118 Eating...... 80 Wildflower Way...... 118 First Time Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 89 West Coast Australia. . . . 18 Moora...... 119 Entertainment ...... 93 What’s New...... 20 Wongan Hills...... 119 Shopping...... 95 Accommodation. . . . . 22 Sunset Coast. . . . . 120 Guilderton...... 120 Getting Around...... 24 PERTH REGION. . . . 100 Lancelin...... 121 If You Like ...... 26 . . . . . 102 Turquoise Coast...... 121 Month by Month. . . . . 29 Rockingham ...... 106 Cervantes & Pinnacles Desert . . . . . 122 Itineraries ...... 32 Peel Region...... 107 ...... 107 Jurien Bay...... 123 Discover Margaret River & the Southwest. . . . . 38 Dwellingup...... 108 Green Head & Leeman. . . . 124 West Coast Australia Perth Hills...... 110 Outdoors...... 42 Hyden & Wave Rock. . . . 111 MARGARET Family Travel...... 48 Swan Valley...... 112 RIVER & THE Guildford...... 112 SOUTHWEST. . . . . 125 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 51 Bunbury Geographe. . . 127 Bunbury...... 127 DAVIDSTEELE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Busselton...... 130 Margaret River Region ...... 131 Dunsborough ...... 131 CATHERINE SUTHERLAND/LONELY PLANET MAGAZINE ©

WAVE ROCK P111 ABORIGINAL SPEARHEAD, FITZROY CROSSING P231 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Cape Naturaliste . . . . . 134 Denham...... 180 History...... 240 Yallingup ...... 135 Monkey Mia...... 182 Local Produce, Margaret River...... 137 Coast. . . . . 183 Wine & Craft Beer . . . . 248 Caves Road...... 141 Carnarvon...... 183 Mining & the Augusta & Around. . . . . 144 Quobba Coast...... 185 Environment...... 253 Southern Forests. . . . 146 Indigenous Art in . . . . 258 Nannup ...... 146 Bridgetown...... 146 & THE PILBARA . . . . 187 Manjimup...... 147 Ningaloo Coast. . . . . 190 Pemberton...... 148 SURVIVAL Coral Bay...... 190 GUIDE Exmouth ...... 191 SOUTH COAST Exmouth Region...... 195 Directory A–Z...... 262 WA...... 151 Ningaloo Marine Park. . . 197 Walpole & Nornalup. . . . 153 Cape Range Transport...... 272 Denmark ...... 154 National Park ...... 199 Index...... 279 The Pilbara ...... 200 Albany ...... 157 Map Legend...... 286 Mt Barker...... 161 Karratha...... 200 Porongurup Dampier...... 203 National Park ...... 162 Port Hedland...... 203 Stirling Range . . . . 205 National Park ...... 163 Bremer Bay...... 164 BROOME & Fitzgerald River National Park ...... 165 THE KIMBERLEY. . 209 Hopetoun...... 166 The Kimberley...... 212 Esperance...... 166 Broome ...... 212 Dampier Peninsula. . . . . 222 Derby...... 224 MONKEY MIA & THE CENTRAL Devonian Reef National Parks ...... 227 WEST ...... 169 SPECIAL Gibb River Road...... 228 Batavia Coast...... 171 FEATURES Great Northern Dongara-Port Denison. . . . 171 Highway...... 230 Off the Beaten Track Map ...... 36 Geraldton...... 172 Kununurra...... 233 Kalbarri ...... 175 Discover Margaret Purnululu National River & the . . . 178 Park & Bungle Southwest...... 38 Bungle Range...... 236 ...... 179 Wyndham...... 238 West Coast Shark Bay Road...... 179 Australia Outdoors . . . 42 Local Produce & Wineries Map . . . . . 250 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 32

Itineraries É •# Perth Rottnest •#

Island É É

I N D I A N O C E A N

É

Bunbury •# Bunbury Geographe

Geographe É

•# Bay É Dunsborough •#

É Busselton •#Balingup

Margaret River

•# É Wine Region •# ‚ Nannup

Boranup Dr É É

•# Augusta

1 WEEK A Southwest Short Circuit

Pressed for time? This itinerary offers a taste of the best of the state – city life, colonial history, beaches, wildlife, wine, forests and lonesome rural roads. Base yourself in Perth, either in the city centre or , and spend three days exploring: don’t miss , Cottesloe Beach and Kings Park. Is the New Museum for Western Australia open yet? Ferry out for a day on Rottnest Island, then hire a car and head south, stopping first at Bunbury for a visit to the Dolphin Discovery Centre. Continue on to Bunbury Geographe, basing yourself in either Busselton or Dunsborough, and spend the rest of the day at the beach. Pick up a map of the Mar- garet River Wine Region and spend day six checking out the wineries, surf beaches and caves, all of which are close by. Sleep in the Margaret River township that night. The next morning, head to Augusta via Caves Rd and take the scenic detour through the karri forest along unsealed Boranup Drive. Visit Cape Leeuwin, where the Indian and Southern Oceans collide, before heading back to Bunbury on a picturesque rural drive through Nannup and Balingup. From here it’s a two-hour drive back to Perth. 33

Perth Swan Valley É Rottnest •# •#York Island•# •# •# •# Fremantle

•# Perth Hills É Hyden &

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É Wave Rock Shoalwater Islands •# Marine Park

É

É

É

É

É •# É É

É Busselton É

•# It •# •# É Margaret River Esperance ÷#

É Hopetoun i nerar ‚Boranup Dr Cape Le Grand Cape •# É Leeuwin ÷#Stirling Range National Park Augusta •#Pemberton National Park É Mt Barker•# ÷# i es É É É •# •# •# Denmark Albany Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk S O U T H E R N O C E A N

3 WEEKS The Southwest Uncut

Western Australia’s southwest is a magical corner of the continent. This itinerary checks off the main highlights over three weeks – give it a month to really relax into it. Spend three days in Perth and Fremantle – the WA Shipwrecks Museum is a must – then beach yourself for a day on Rottnest Island or hit the wineries in the underrated Perth Hills. Truck south to Geographe Bay – stopping at Rockingham to wade out to Shoalwater Islands Marine Park – before overnighting in Busselton. After a morn- ing walk along the town’s epic jetty, continue for two nights in Margaret River town- ship, exploring the local breweries, wineries, surf beaches and caves. The following morning head to Augusta via Caves Rd, detouring along scenic Bo- ranup Drive with its karri trees. At Cape Leeuwin, pinpoint the exact spot where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, then continue to sleepy Pemberton. Don’t miss the Karri Forest Explorer scenic drive. The next day, visit the extraordinary Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk near Walpole and overnight in hippie-meets-city Denmark. Assess the beaches, wineries, breweries and restaurants here, before two days in history- rich Albany. Head north for more Great Southern wineries at Mt Barker before tracking east to Porongurup National Park. Spend the next day (or two) tackling the mountainous tracks either here or at Stirling Range National Park. Continue to the South Coast Hwy and at Ravensthorpe hop down to Hopetoun – it’s a three-hour drive from the Stirling Range (spend the afternoon at the beach). The fol- lowing day, head back to the South Coast Hwy and continue east around 2½ hours for two days in Esperance and Cape Le Grand National Park. Back on the South Coast Hwy, turn north just past Ravensthorpe for Hyden and the curvilicious granite of Wave Rock – around four hours. The following day, head west to the Avon Valley and classically colonial York. On your final day back to Perth, stop at the Swan Valley for craft beer and wineries. 34

onoon io a a •# •#Kalumburu

ai É l Mitchell •# É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Plateau Parry Lagoons É Nature Five Rivers Reserve Drysdale Lookout •# •# Kununurra River ÷# É É Home Valley •# Kalumburu Rd Station •# •# Ord

Dampier Mt Elizabeth •# É River Peninsula •# É It •# Station É El Gibb River Questro i nerar

Gibb Lennard Rd É •# River Mt River Galvans HartR

Rd É Gorge É

Derby É ‚

É É •# É i es •# É Mornington •# Purnululu É •# Wilderness Windjana Gorge National Park ÷# Camp

÷# •#

•# É Tunnel Creek Bungle

É National Park É Broome Geikie Bungle

•# Range Gorge É Great Northern Hwy

4 WEEKS Kimberley Outback

This is the biggest adventure in the west, leaving Broome during the dry season and traversing the rugged heart of Kimberley by 4WD. From Broome, the first stop is the Dampier Peninsula, with its Aboriginal commu- nities, beautiful beaches and mud crabs. It’s also your last saltwater swim. Take the back road to Derby and its boabs, then roll onto the Gibb River Road. Lennard River is the first of many inviting gorges here. Explore wildlife and more gorges at Mt Hart and remote Mornington Wilderness Camp, and look for examples of Wandjina art at Gal- vans Gorge and Mt Elizabeth Station. Turn off onto the Kalumburu Road, check the road conditions at Drysdale River and drive on to the Mitchell Plateau, with its forests of livistona and astonishing waterfalls. Discover the area’s ancient rock art before hitting the northern coast for some top-flight fishing at Honeymoon Bay, just beyond the mission community of Kalumburu. Retrace your route back to the Gibb, then turn left for wonderful Home Valley Sta- tion, where soft beds make a happy change from camping. Nearby El Questro has gorg- es aplenty, none more beautiful than Emma Gorge near the resort. Soon you’re back on asphalt, but not for long as you take in the amazing birdlife of Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve. Let Wyndham’s Five Rivers Lookout blow your mind, before heading for the civility of Kununurra, with its excellent eateries. Canoe down the mighty , or jump back behind the wheel for the wonders of and the orange-domed Bungle Bungle Range. Darwin and the are beckoning, or you can follow the Great North- ern Hwy back to Broome, stopping in at beautiful Geikie Gorge for a relaxing boat cruise: any freshwater crocs? There are plenty at nearby Windjana Gorge, sunning themselves on the riverbanks. En route, grab your torch and wade through the icy waters of Tunnel Creek National Park, with its bats and rock art. From Windjana, plant the pedal back to Broome, where the price of beer probably won’t bother you as much as it did a month ago. 35

Exmouth •# Ningaloo É Marine Park ÷# Coral Bay •# Gnaraloo •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

É É

Carnarvon •# Broome•# a a É Monkey Mia•# Eighty Mile É Point Samson Beach •# •# Ù# Great Hamelin Pool É Sandy •# Desert Millstream É Port Hedland É Chichester Kalbarri •# National Park÷# ÷# Karijini National Park It

•#

Exmouth i nerar É •#

É Tom Price •# The Geraldton Stockyard Gully Pilbara

É Caves

•# i es

Lesueur ÷# National Park

Pinnacles Desert •# É •# Perth

2 1 Jewels of the WEEKS Dreaming WEEK Pilbara

Beautiful beaches, spectacular sunsets and You’ll camp most of the way on this miss- diverse wildlife are your constant compan- ing link between Ningaloo and Broome, ions on this coastal cruise. with long empty beaches, shady pools and some surprisingly good food. Take Indian Ocean Dr north from Perth to Cervantes for a crayfish dinner From Exmouth, take Burkett Rd back and sunset over the otherwordly Pinna- to the highway and head north, turning off cles Desert. Assess the native blooms at at Nanutarra for the long, scenic haul up to , take your 4WD Tom Price. After stocking up, spend the to the Stockyard Gully Caves, then hit next few days camped in Karijini Na- the cafes and museums of Geraldton. Try tional Park, exploring sublime gorges and kitesurfing on for size, then move on to the engaging in a spot of peak-bagging among wonderful Kalbarri coastline. Paddle a the state’s highest mountains. Don’t miss canoe in the gorges before the long drive a swim at Hamersley Gorge en route to to World Heritage–listed Shark Bay. Spy the relaxing, shady pools in Millstream some dolphins and dugongs at Monkey Chichester National Park. Check out the Mia, and sign up for an Indigenous cul- mesas and breakaways of the Chichester tural tour. Check out the stromatolites of Range before dropping down to the coast, Hamelin Pool before hitting Carnarvon. assessing the petroglyphs at , Drop into Gnaraloo for world-class waves then on to lovely Point Samson for snor- before arriving at tiny Coral Bay and kelling. Take the North West Coastal Hwy Exmouth, where whale sharks, humpback directly to Port Hedland and indulge in whales, manta rays and turtles inhabit the some urban eats before camping at remote exquisite Ningaloo Marine Park. Fly out Eighty Mile Beach, where you might of Exmouth, drive back to Perth, or push spot nesting turtles. Your last leg is a long on to the gorgeous gorges of Karijini. stretch of nothingness (how amazing!) as you skirt the Great Sandy Desert to ar- rive in tropical Broome.

36

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN CK TRA EATEN B E H T OFF

# km Off the Beaten Track - West Coast Australia e miles

aa a ALE A al l io t a Darwin•# KALUUU F I KALUUU H I a •# Oombulgurri Aboriginal II Land i v udbarra Gregory T AUUSTUS ATIOAL National Park PAK •# iv DUCA Dampier Derby Peninsula o Halls DUCA OAD a OAD Broome •# it Creek The •# t r Kimberley n t B a Wolfe Creek •# WESTERN Meteorite Crater r r t Port Hedland AUSTRALIA •# Balgo The Pilbara Aboriginal Dampier •#•# Great Land Karratha •# Sandy Desert ALE Central Australia NORTHERN Exmouth •# Karijini A Aboriginal Land H Karlamilyi am National National Park TERRITORY er Park sle y 4a4 s M R acDonnell Range t an aa s on g i e v Gibson T AUUSTUS Little •#Alice Springs Sandy Desert •# 44 ATIOAL PAK Desert n Gibson Desert Gibson Desert Carnarvon oniv •# as a Nature anan Reserve Simpson Desert 44 Warakurna- National Park DIK ATO ISLAD •# Wing-Irr ATIOAL PAK Aboriginal Land Simpson Desert •# Wiluna 44 Great Pitjantjatjara Victoria Aboriginal Land DIK ATO ISLAD Cosmo Newberry Desert OUTA ATIOAL PAK Aboriginal Neale Land unction AOLOS Nature Reserve SOUTH •# ISLADS AUSTRALIA H I WESTERN Maralinga Tjarutja Great Victoria Aboriginal AUSTRALIA Desert Nature Land Reserve •# Kalgoorlie - Boulder Nullarbor Nullabor Plain Regional Northam Reserve Yellabinna •# Regional s Dundas e Nature Reserve g Perth •# n Reserve a DADA R Fremantle•# s WOODLAD r •# Nuytsland e Mandurah at stalian d i n Nature t i l Bunbury•# Esperance Reserve F Busselton•# •# •# ESPEACE ATIOAL PAKS Eyre Peninsula •# Adelaide

OUTA AOLOS •# DADA WOODLAD ESPEACE ATIOAL Albany PAKS •# Port ISLADS Lincoln t a e B C n a s C a s

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN E H T OFF CK TRA EATEN B 37 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 277

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

Hedland; Maria, Kate and Michael in Denmark; Lyn in WRITER THANKS Norseman; and all the helpful visitor-centre staff and Charles Rawlings-Way Aboriginal artists who’ve shared their work with me. Boundless thanks to Tasmin for the gig, to Fleur for the inside running on Perth culture, and to all the Tasmin Waby helpful souls I met on the road in and around Perth Thanks to Jennifer Carey and the rest of the Australia who flew through my questions with the greatest writer crew for the encouragement to hit the road. of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the Love to my beautiful daughters and their father for increasingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting letting me take off in the middle of the British winter. around in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and Big clap to the excellent editors who knocked this made sure that Ione, Remy, Liv and Reuben were fed, sometimes scrappy work into shape. And Sir Ix, aka watered, washed, schooled, tucked in and read to. Nicholas Reed, for being there, as always. Fleur Bainger Steve Waters Thrilled and grateful to be on board, I’m eager to Big thanks to John and Jan for fireside hospitality; thank both Tasmin and Charles for their endless Lauren, James, Jane, Trish, Anika and the rest of MC patience with helping me learn the guidebook-writing for (more) gorge love; Marie for vino frenzies; Leonie ropes. Western Australia’s epic scenery, passionate and Mera for tea and bikkies; Ted for unruliness; Kaz characters and inspiring produce also deserve for listening; Roz and Megan for caretaking; Vicky gratitude; they constantly inspire me to share the and Pippa for letting me trash their car; and Jennifer word on this stunning, still relatively untouched part from the RACV for getting me out of Marla on Grand of the world. Final Day. Anna Kaminski Huge thanks to Tasmin for entrusting me with a ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS chunk of Western Australia, to fellow scribes Charles, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Steve, Carolyn and Brett for the advice, and to every- BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the one who’s helped me along the way. In particular: Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and John and Debbie in Geraldton; Barbara in Esperance; Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Anna in Meekatharra; my adoptive Wongutha family (Linden, Trevor and Marcia), plus Monica, Billy and Cover photograph: Cape Leveque (Kooljaman), Liz Becky in Kalgoorlie; ‘Capes’ in Denham; Amy in Port Barker/Getty Images © 278

Destination Editor Mulvaney, Charlotte Orr, THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Fionnuala Twomey This 10th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors Assisting Cartographer Planet’s West Coast Australia Kate Chapman, Sandie Kestell, Julie Dodkins guidebook was researched Anne Mason Cover Researcher and written by Charles Regional Senior Brendan Dempsey-Spencer Rawlings-Way, Fleur Bainger, Cartographer Julie Sheridan Thanks to Jennifer Carey, Anna Kaminski, Tasmin Waby Product Editor Kate Mathews Laura Crawford, David and Steve Waters. The previ- Book Designer Jessica Rose Hodges, Dario Lepori, Virginia ous two editions were written Moreno, Claire Naylor, Vicky Assisting Editors Sarah by Steve, Brett Atkinson, Kate Smith, Anna Tyler, Daisy van Armstrong and Carolyn Bain. Bailey, Judith Bamber, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, Kellie Amerom, Diana von Holdt and This guidebook was produced Branislava Vladisavljevic by the following: Langdon, Lou McGregor, Anne ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279

Index

A Badgingarra National Twilight Beach 167 breweries 40-1, 251-2, see Aboriginal Australians 246 Park 123 West Beach 167 also beer, brewery tours art & culture 10, 26, 225, Balingup 147 Wittecarra Beach 175 Beer Farm 143 258-60, 10 bargaining 19 beer 26, 251-2, see also Bootleg Brewery 143 history 240-1, 242-3, Barnett River 229 breweries Boston Brewery 156 244-5, 258-60 Batavia Coast 171-9 Bell Gorge 228, 12 Brewhouse 140 languages 17 bathrooms 270 Bibbulmun Track 153, Caves Road Collective 143 mining employment 255 beaches 26 159, 47 Cheeky Monkey 143 Abrolhos, the 174 Basin, the 102 bicycle travel see cycling, Colonial Brewing Co 140 accessible travel 262 Bathers Beach 66 mountain biking Eagle Bay Brewing Co 134 accommodation 18, 22-3, Big Lagoon 182 birdwatching Feral Brewing Company 263, see also individual Bill’s Bay 190 books 254 114 locations Blue Haven 167 Broome 213, 217 Froth Craft Brewery 194 stations 195 Cable Beach 212, 216, 13 Derby 224 Homestead Brewery 114 wilderness camps 223 Cape Leveque Parry Lagoons Nature Little Creatures 92 AC/DC 78 (Kooljaman) 222 Reserve 238 Lucky Bay Brewery 168 activities 42-7, see also Cattle Well 182 Penguin Island 106 Margaret River 143 individual activities City Beach 61 red-tailed tropicbirds 136 Matso’s Broome Brewery air travel 25, 272, 273 Cottesloe Beach 61, Blues at Bridgetown 220 Festival 31 airlines 272, 273 81, 8-9 Northbridge Brewing airports 272 Floreat Beach 62 boat travel 273 Company 91 Albany 157-61, 158 Fourth Beach 167 boat trips Three Rivers Brewing Company 108 Alexander Morrison National Gnaraloo Bay 185 Augusta 145 Whalebone Brewing Park 123 Granny’s Beach 171 Esperance 167 Company 194-5 America’s Cup 247 Hearson’s Cove 203 Geikie Gorge 227 Wilson Brewing Company amusement parks 49 James Price Point 222 Islands 174 160 animals 14, 28, 267-8 see Le Grand Beach 166 also individual species Kununurra 234 brewery tours 139 Leighton Beach 66 aquariums 235 Bridgetown 146-7 Lucky Bay 166, 5 Denham 180 Mandurah Cruises 107 Broome 12, 52, 212-21, 214, Manari Road 220 Ningaloo Interpretation Monkey Mia 183 216, 13 Mandalay Beach 153 Centre 192 Nornalup Inlet 153 accommodation 209, Mettams Pool 61 218-19 Perth 61 Perth 72 Northshore Beach 171 activities 215 area codes 17 Pemberton 149 Ocean Beach 154 climate 209 art galleries, see museums Bond, Alan 247 Point Quobba 185 drinking 220 & galleries booking services 23 Red Bluff Beach 175 entertainment 220-1 ATMs 266 books Reddell Beach 213 events 217-18 Augusta 144-5 architecture 255 Salmon Beach 167 festivals 217-18 Avon Valley 115, 110 birdwatching 254 Samson Beach 201 food 209, 219-20 diving 198 Scarborough Beach 61 for children 50 ecology 254 B Seaspray Beach 171 highlights 210-11 B&Bs 22 environmentalism 257 Shell Beach 179 information 221 roadmaps 266 South Beach 171 nightlife 220 box jellyfish 267 Swanbourne Beach 62-3 shopping 221 Bradshaw paintings 240-1 Map Pages 000 Trigg Beach 63 sights 212-15 Bremer Bay 164-5 Photo Pages 000 Turquoise Bay 198 tours 215-17 280 Broome continued Mulka’s Cave 112 currency 16 Dongara 171-2 travel seasons 209 Ngilgi Cave 134-5 customs regulations dot painting 259-60 travel to/from 221 Stockyard Gully 234, 262 Dreaming, the 258 travel within 221 Caves 124 cycling 25, 44, 273, see drinks, see also breweries, budget 17 Caves Road 141-4 also bicycle travel, cideries, distilleries, mountain biking wineries Bunbury 127-9, 128 cell phones 16, 269

INDEX INDEX Broome 217 beer 26, 251-2 Bunbury Geographe 127-31 cemeteries Geraldton 172 cider 21 Bungle Bungle Range Broome 213 Kalbarri 175 236-8, 45 Fremantle Cemetery 78 wine 9, 26, 248-51 Perth 66 B- bus travel 25, 272-3, 274 Wadjemup Aboriginal driving, see car travel 

E bushfires 268 Burial Ground 102 driving routes  bushwalking, see hiking Cervantes 122-3 D Boranup Drive 142 business hours 17, 266 Charles Knife Canyon 199 Dales Gorge 205 Duncan Road 232 Busselton 130-1 Chichester Range 208 Dampier 203 Gibb River Road 12, 228-30 BYO 249 children, travel with 48-50 Dampier Archipelago 203 accommodation 22-3 Dampier Peninsula 222-4 Great Forest Trees Drive 148 cideries dangers, see safety C Cheeky Monkey 143 Darling Range 110-11, 110 Cable Beach 212, 216, 13 230-3 Core Cider 110 dengue fever 264 Cambridge Gulf 238 Great Ocean Drive 167 Tangletoe Cidery 149 Denham 180-2 camel tours Karri Forest Explorer 150 Wine Tree Cidery 108-9 Denmark 154-7 Broome 217 Knoll Drive 153 cinemas Derby 224-7 Perth 73 Lesueur Scenic Drive 123 Broome 212, 221 Devonian Reef National camping 22, 223 Manari Road 220 Perth 93 Parks 227 canoeing, see also Mt Augustus National Wyndham 238 dinosaur footprints 212-13, kayaking Park 185 climate 16, 29-31, see also 256 Kalbarri 176 Mt Shadforth Road 154 individual regions Island National Scotsdale Road 154 Kununurra 234 climbing 66 Park 181 Shark Bay Road World Pemberton 149 disabilities, travellers clothing 18 Heritage Drive 179-80 canyoning 176, see also with 262 consulates 262-3 Shothole Canyon Road gorges distilleries cooking classes 200 Great Southern Distillery Cape Lodge 142 Valley of the Giants 166 157-8 Gumbanan 223 Rd 153 Cape Le Grand National Illegal Tender Rum Wildwood Valley Cooking Warlu Way 200-1 Park 166 Co 171 School 135-6 Dryandra Woodland 113 Cape Leveque (Kooljaman) Margaret River Distilling coral 198 222 Company 137 Drysdale River 229 Coral Bay 190-1 Cape Naturaliste 134-5 Whipper Snapper Duncan Road 232 Cape Peron 182 Cossack 201 Distillery 57 Dunsborough 131-4 costs 17 diving 28, 46 Durack River 230 199-200 Cottesloe Beach 61, Albany 159 Dwellingup 108-9 81, car rental 274-5 8-9 books 198 courses car travel 24-5, 268, 273, Broome 215 274-6, see also driving Aboriginal culture 66 E courses 72, 190, 193 routes birdwatching 213 Echidna Chasm 237 Dunsborough 133 caravan parks 22 bush skills 223 economy 255 Esperance 167 Carnarvon 183-5 cooking 135-6, 142, 223 El Questro Gorge 230 Exmouth 196-7 Cathedral Gorge 237 diving 72, 190, 193 electricity 262 Houtman Abrolhos caves 41 Ellen Peak 163 mountain biking 111 Islands 174 Crystal Cave 120 embassies 262-3 surfing 48, 72, 135, Ningaloo Marine Park 198 Giants Cave 142 137, 172 emergencies 17 Ningaloo Reef 190, 193 Jewel Cave 145 yoga 135 Emmanuel Range 230 Perth 72 Jingemia Cave 119 Cowaramup 141 environmental issues dolphin encounters 253-7 Lake Cave 141, 41 credit cards 266 Broome 217 Esperance 166-8 Mammoth Cave 142 cricket 95 Bunbury 127-8 etiquette 19 Mimbi Caves 230 crocodiles 267, 14 Mandurah 107 events 29-31 cultural centres Monkey Mia 182-3 exchange rates 17 Bilya Koort Boodja 115 dolphins 11 Map Pages 000 Walyalup Aboriginal Exmouth 191-5, 192 Dolphin Discovery Photo Pages Cultural Centre 66 Exmouth region 195-7, 196 000 Centre 127 281 F Great Southern Rail 273 European settlement kayaking, see also festivals 29-31 Great Southern wine region 242-3 canoeing FIFO 254 249, 251 exploration 243 Broome 216 films 130, 245 Green Head 124 gold 243-4 Denmark 154 fishing 46, 167 Greenbushes 147 Great Depression, the Dwellingup 109 245 Fitzgerald River National Guilderton 120-1 Exmouth 192-3

modern WA 246-7 INDEX Park 165-6, 47 Guildford 112-13 Lake Argyle 235 public works 244 Fitzroy Crossing 231-2, 2 Gwion Gwion art 259 Ningaloo Reef 190, 198 stolen generations flowers 118, 123, 176 Perth 71 244-5 -fly-in, fly-out 254 Rottnest Island 103  F

H WWI 245  L food 19, 27-8, 49, 248, 263, Halls Creek 232-3 Shoalwater Islands WWII 245-6 Marine Park 106 see also individual Hamelin Pool 179 locations hitching 273 Kimberley, the 52, 209-38, Hamersley Gorge 206 festivals 139 holidays 266 210-11 Hancock Gorge 205, 14 vegetarian 249 Hopetoun 166 accommodation 209 health 263-5 Forrest, Andrew ‘Twiggy’ horizontal waterfalls 226 climate 209 heat exhaustion 264 255 horse riding 234 food 209 heatstroke 264 Francois Peron National hostels 22 for children 50 Park 182, 19 Hellfire Bay 166, 27 hotels 22 highlights 210-11 Fremantle Doctor 77 hiking 13, 27, 13 Houtman Abrolhos Islands travel seasons 209 Fremantle Festival 30 Bibbulmun Track 153, 174 King Edward River 229 Frenchman Peak 166 159, 47 Hyden 111-12 King Leopold Ranges 228 fuel 274 Broome 215 hypothermia 264, 268-9 King Sound 224 Cape Range National Kings Park Festival 31 Park 199 I kitesurfing 45, see also G Cape to Cape Track windsurfing galleries, see museums & 139, 142 Indigenous art 10, 26, 225, Exmouth 197 galleries Chichester Range 208 258-60, 10 Geraldton 172 Galvans Gorge 229 Fremantle Trails 71 Indigenous culture 26 Margaret River 138 Gascoyne Coast 183-6 Hopetoun 166 insects 267 Knox Gorge 207 gay travellers 86, 265-6 Kalbarri National Park insurance 265 Kununurra 233-6 Geikie Gorge 227 178-9, 42 car 275 Kwongan heathlands 123 Geraldton 172-5, 173 Le Grand Coastal Trail health 263 Gibb River Road 12, 228-30 166 internet access 265 gorges Lurujarri Dreaming internet resources 17 L Amelia Gorge 230 Trail 215 accommodation 23 Lake Argyle 235 Bell Gorge 228, 12 Melaleuca Cycle-Walk car sharing 273 lakes Trail 175 Cathedral Gorge 237 children, travel with 50 Lake Argyle 235 Millstream 208 Charles Knife Canyon health 264 Lake Kununurra 234 Mokare Heritage Trail 199 travel advisories 269 Lake Monger 60 154 Dales Gorge 205 work 271 Miaree Pool 200 Mt Augustus National Deep Gorge 203 itineraries 32-7 Park 185 Pink Lake 178 Echidna Chasm 237 Munda Biddi Trail 108 Lancelin 121 El Questro Gorge 230 Nornalup Trail 154 J languages 16, 17 Galvans Gorge 229 Piccaninny Gorge 237 Jarrahdale 109 Leeman 124 Geikie Gorge 227 Porongurup National Joffre Gorge 206 legal matters 265 Hamersley Gorge 206 Park 162, 162 Johns, Joseph Bolitho 117 Lennard River 228 Hancock Gorge 205, 14 Punurrunha 207 Jurien Bay 123-4 Lennard River Gorge 228 Joffre Gorge 206 Stirling Range National Lesueur National Park 123 Kalamina Gorge 207 Park 163, 164-5 LGBT+ travellers 86, 265-6 Knox Gorge 207 Wilson Inlet Trail 154 K Kalamina Gorge 207 Lennard River Gorge 228 Yaburara Heritage Cape Leeuwin Kalbarri 175-8, Mandu Mandu Gorge 199 Trail 201 177 145 Kalbarri National Park Piccaninny Gorge 237 history 240-7 Cape Naturaliste 178-9, 42 Sawpit Gorge 232 Aboriginal Australians Lighthouse 135 Kalumburu 231 Weano Gorge 206 240-1, 242-3, 244-5 Vlamingh Head Karijini National Park 14, Lighthouse 196 Windjana Gorge 227, 14 convicts 243 205-8, 206, 14 Wadjemup Lighthouse Yardie Creek Gorge 199 environmentalism 253 Karratha 200-3 102 Great Northern Highway European explorers mining industry 254 Lucky Bay 166, 230-3 241-2 5 282 M money 16, 17, 266 Museum of the Great national parks 45, see also Manari Road 220 Monkey Mia Marine Southern 157 marine reserves, nature reserves Mandalay Beach 153 Reserve 10, 182-3, 11 Nagula Jarndu Women’s Resource Centre Alexander Morrison Mandu Mandu Gorge 199 for children 50 213, 225 National Park 123 Mandurah 107-8 Moondyne Joe 117 National Anzac Centre Badgingarra National Moora 119 mangos 218 157 Park 123 INDEX INDEX motels 22 Manjimup 147-8 New Museum for Beedelup National maps 266 motorcycle travel 273, Western Australia 20 Park 150 274-6 Marble Bar 202 New Norcia Museum & Cape Arid National

M- mountain biking 44  Margaret River 137-41, Art Gallery 118 Park 166

N 138, 15 Dwellingup 109 Newcastle Gaol Museum Cape Le Grand National  Margaret River Gourmet Margaret River 137, 138 117 Park 166 Escape 31 Pemberton 148 Ningaloo Interpretation Cape Range National Margaret River Pro 139 Perth Hills 111 Centre 192 Park 199-200 Margaret River region 38- Mt Augustus 185 Norval Gallery 224 Devonian Reef National 41, 51, 125-50, 126, 38 Mt Augustus National Nostalgia Box 60 Parks 227 accommodation 125 Park 185 Old Convent Heritage climate 125 Mt Barker 161-2 Centre 213 National Park 181 food 125, 249 Mt Lesueur 123 Pearl Luggers 215 Esperance region 166 for children 49 Mt Welcome 201 Pemberton Fine Francois Peron National Park 182, 19 highlights 126 Murujuga National Park Woodcraft Gallery 148 Geikie Gorge 227 travel seasons 125 203 Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts 60 Kalbarri National Park Margaret River wine region museums & galleries 178-9, 9, 39, 131-45, 249, 225, 260 Petrichor Gallery 153 42 132, 40 Army Museum of WA 66 Revolutions Transport Karijini National Park 14, Museum 113-14 205-8, , marine reserves, see also Art Gallery of Western 206 14 national parks, nature Australia 60 Rottnest Museum 102 Leeuwin-Naturaliste reserves ArtGeo Cultural Complex Scitech 61 National Park 141 Hamelin Pool 179 130 Shark Bay World Lesueur National Park 123 Monkey Mia Marine Augusta Historical Heritage Discovery Centre 180 Reserve 10, 182-3, 11 Museum 145 Millstream Chichester National Park 208 Ningaloo Marine Park 11, Bidyadanga Community Short Street Gallery 213 Art Centre 225 197-9, 11 Tractor Museum 114 233 Rowley Shoals Marine Broome Museum 213 WA Shipwrecks Park 218 Bunbury Museum & Museum 65 Mitchell River National Park 229 Shoalwater Islands Heritage Centre 127 Waringarri Aboriginal Marine Park 106 Bunbury Regional Art Arts Centre 225, 233 Mt Augustus National Park 185 markets Gallery 127 Warlayirti Artists Bungalow 213 Centre 225 Murujuga National Park Bunbury Farmers Market 203 129 Carnarvon Space & Tech- Warmun Arts 225 Nambung National Fremantle 65 nology Museum 184 Western Australian Museum – Park 122 Margaret River Farmers Comet Gold Mine Geraldton 172 Penguin Island 106 Market 140 Museum 202 Western Australian Porongurup National Perth 86 Courthouse Gallery 203-4 Museum – Park 162-3, 162 measures 267 East Pilbara Arts Centre Maritime 65 Purnululu National Park medical services 264 205 Western Australian 236-8, 237, 45 Miaree Pool 200 Esperance Museum 167 Museum – Perth 60 Serpentine National Millstream Chichester Fremantle Arts Centre 65 Wharefinger Museum Park 109 National Park 208 Geraldton Regional Art 224 Shoalwater Islands Mimbi Caves 230 Gallery (GRAG) 172 Yarliyil Gallery 225 Marine Park 106 mining industry 253-7 Kununurra Historical Yinjaa-Barndi Gallery Stirling Range National Minyirr Park 212 Society Museum 234 201 Park 163-4, 164-5 Mirima National Park 233 Laarri Gallery 225 York Motor Museum Mitchell Falls 229 Mandurah Museum 107 116 166 Mitchell Plateau 229 Mangkaja Arts 225, 232 123 mobile phones 16, 269 Marnin Studio 225 Torndirrup National N Park 159 Motor Museum of Western Australia 114 122 Tuart Forest National Park 130 Map Pages 000 Mowanjum Art & Culture Nannup 146 Tunnel Creek 227 Photo Pages 000 Centre 225 National Anzac Centre 157 283 Walpole-Nornalup Kings Park & Botanic planning swimming 269 National Park 153 Garden 60-1 accommodation 22-3 women travellers 271 Watheroo National Whiteman Park 113-14 budgeting 17 sandalwood 161 Park 119 pearl farms 220 calendar of events 29-31 Sawpit Gorge 232 Waychinicup National Peel Region 107-9 children, travel with 48-50 scenic drives, see driving Park 159 pelicans 176 internet resources 17 routes

West Cape Howe Pemberton 148-50 Scott, Ronald Belford INDEX National Park 154 itineraries 32-7 Pender Bay 222 repeat visitors 20-1 (Bon) 78 William Bay National seasonal work 271 Park 154 penguins 106 travel seasons 16 -Pentecost Ranges 230 West Coast Australia  N Windjana Gorge 227, 14 109 Perth 9, 51, 54-99, 55, basics 16-17  S Shark Bay 10, 179-83 108 58-9, 62-3, 67, 68-9, West Coast Australia’s regions 51-2 Shark Bay Road 179-80 National Park 70 sharks 267-8 120 accommodation 54, Point Samson 201 75-80 shipwrecks 46, 65 nature reserves, see population 21 also marine reserves, activities 66-72 Porongurup National Park Batavia 65, 172, 241 national parks climate 54 162-3, 162 HMAS Perth 159 Broome Bird drinking 89-93 Port Denison 171-2 Mandalay 153 Observatory 213 entertainment 93-5 Port Hedland 203-5 Shoalwater Islands Marine Dampier Archipelago 203 events 73-5 post 266 Park 106 Forest Discovery Centre festivals 73-5 produce 248-52 shopping 260, see also markets 109 food 54, 80-9 public holidays 266 silo art 115 Lane Pool Reserve 109 for children 49, 61 public transport 25, 276 skating 69, 71 Ngamoowalem highlights 55 pubs 22 Conservation Reserve skydiving history 56 Punurrunha 207 233-4 Perth 71 information 96-7 Purnululu National Park Parry Lagoons Nature Rottnest Island 103 Reserve 238 itineraries 57 236-8, 237, 45 York 116 Valley of the Giants LGBT+ travellers 86 smoking 267 153, 13 nightlife 89-93 Q snakes 268 New Norcia 118 shopping 95-6 Quobba Coast 185-6 sights 56-66, 91 snorkelling 28, 46, see also newspapers 267 quokkas 103, 12 diving tours 72-3 Ningaloo coast 52, 190- Coral Bay 190 200, travel seasons 54 188-9 Exmouth 193 accommodation 187 travel to/from 97-8 R rabbit-proof fence 165, 166 Jurien Bay 123 climate 187 travel within 98-9 radio 267 Kalbarri 175 food 187 walking tour 74, 74 red-tailed tropicbirds 136 Ningaloo Marine Park for children 50 Perth Festival 29 road conditions 275-6 198 highlights 188-9 Perth Hills 110-11, 110 road rules 276 Ningaloo Reef 190 travel seasons 187 wineries 251 Purdy Point 190 rock art 258-9, 10 Ningaloo Marine Park 11, Perth region 51, 100-24, 101 Mitchell River National Rottnest Island 102 197-9, 11 accommodation 100 Park 229 south coast Western No 1 rabbit-proof fence 166 climate 100 Mt Augustus National Australia 52, 151-68, No 2 rabbit-proof fence 165 food 100 Park 185 152 Nornalup 153-4 for children 49 Mulka’s Cave 112 accommodation 151 North West Cape 195-7, highlights 101 Murujuga National Park climate 151 196 petrol 274 203 food 151 Northam 115-16 Piccaninny Gorge 237 Yaburara Heritage highlights 152 Pilbara, the 52, 200-8, Trail 201 travel seasons 151 O 188-9 Rockingham 106-7 Southern Forests 146-50 observatories 110 accommodation 187 Roebourne 201 southwest Western opening hours 17, 266 climate 187 Rottnest Island 12, 102-6, Australia 38-41, 51, 125-50, Optus Stadium 20, 95 food 187 104, 44 126 accommodation 125 Ord River 230 for children 50 Rowley Shoals Marine Park 218 climate 125 outback travel 269 highlights 188-9 travel seasons 187 food 125 for children 49 pine trees 81 S P Pink Lake 178 safety 267-9 highlights 126 parks & gardens Pinnacles Desert 15, driving 275-6 travel seasons 125 Hyde Park 60 122-3, 15 hitching 273 spiders 268 284 Staircase to the Moon travel to/from West Coast wi-fi 265 Montgomery’s Hill 160 Broome 219 Australia 272-3 Wildflower Way 118-20 Moombaki Wines 156 Port Hedland 203 travel within West Coast wildflowers 118, 123, 176 Mountford Wines 149 stand-up paddleboarding Australia 24-5, 273-6 wildlife 14, 28 Oranje Tractor 160 Albany 159 trekking, see hiking wildlife reserves & Perth Hills 251 Margaret River 137 truffles 147 sanctuaries 48, see Plantagenet Wines 161

INDEX INDEX Stirling Range National Tuart Forest National also zoos Plume Estate 251 Park 130 Park 163-4, 164-5 Barna Mia Nocturnal Poacher’s Ridge 161 Tunnel Creek 227 Animal Sanctuary 113 Stokes National Park 166 Rising Star 156 Turquoise Coast 121-4 Broome Bird S- stolen generations 244-5  Observatory 213 Rockcliffe Winery 156

Z turtles 196, 215  street art 91 Sandalford Wines 113 Two Peoples Bay 159 Eagles Heritage 142 Sunset Coast 120-1 Malcolm Douglas Singlefile Wines 156 surfing 15, 28, 39-40, 44-5, Wilderness Park 213 Stella Bella 137 48, 15 V Rainbow Jungle 175-6 Stormflower Vineyard classes 48, 72, 135, vacations 266 William Bay National 141 137, 172 Valley of the Giants 153, 13 Park 154 Swan Valley wine region competitions 139 vegetarian travellers 249 Willie Creek 220 113-15, 251 Denmark 154 Thompson Estate 142 visas 16, 270 Windjana Gorge 227, 14 Geraldton 172 Vasse Felix 144 volunteering 182-3, 215, windsurfing 28, 44-5 Jakes Bay 175 Voyager Estate 141 270-1 Margaret River 138 Margaret River 137 Watershed Premium wine 9, 26, 248-51, see also Wines 144 Perth 72 wine tours, wineries W West Cape Howe Wines Quobba Coast 185-6 wine tours 251, see also WACA 95 161 Tombstones 186 wine, wineries walking, see hiking Wignalls Wines 160 Yallingup 135 Denmark 155 Walpole 153-4 Wine Tree Cidery 108-9 Swan River 56 Margaret River 139 Walpole-Nornalup National Zarephath Wines 162 Swan Valley 112-15, 110 Park 153 Swan Valley 114 women travellers 271 Swan Valley wine region Wandjina 259 wineries 21, see also wine, 113-15, 251 Wongalala Falls 231 water parks 49 wine tours swimming 48, see also Wongan Hills 119-20 Wave Rock 111-12, Albany 160 beaches 2 work 271 Waychinicup National Ashbrook 142 Pemberton 148, 149 WWOOFing 271 Park 159 Blind Corner 131, 133 Perth 68-9 Wyndham 238 Weano Gorge 206 Brookside Vineyard 110 Port Hedland 204 weather 16, 29-31 Cape Mentelle 137 safety 269 websites, see internet Capel Vale 130 Y Yallingup 135 resources Castle Rock Estate 162 Yalgorup National Park 108 weights 267 Core Cider 110 Yallingup 135-7 T West Cape Howe National Cullen Wines 144, 9 120 Tathra National Park 123 Park 154 Denmark 156 Yardie Creek Gorge 199 telephone services 16, 269 West Coast Australia basics Duke’s Vineyard 162 yoga 135 television 267 16-17 Geographe Bay 127 York 116 time zones 16, 269 Western Desert Mob 260 Great Southern wine tipping 19, 266 Western Desert painting region 249, 251 259-60 Z toilets 270 Harewood Estate 156 whale sharks 198 zoos 48, see also wildlife Toodyay 117 Houghton 113 whale watching 46, 49 reserves & sanctuaries Ironwood Estate Wines Albany 158-9 Bunbury Wildlife Park 159 162-3 127 Augusta 145 tourist information 270 Leeuwin Estate 144 Caversham Wildlife Bremer Bay 164 train rides 103, 114, 130 Margaret River Regional Park 113 Conspicuous Cliffs 153 train travel 25, 273, 276 Wine Centre 141 Perth 57 tram rides 114, 149 Dunsborough 133 Margaret River wine region 9, 39, 131-45, transport 24-5, 276 Fitzgerald River National Park 165 249, 132, 40

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 285 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 286

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book Tasmin Waby Margaret River & the Southwest A London-born writer with Kiwi whānau who grew up in Australia, Tasmin loves cartography, starry night skies, and getting off the beaten track. When not on the road for Lonely Planet she lives in a narrow- boat and is planning her next adventure with her two school-aged kids. Her love affair with Western Australia is off the charts.

Steve Waters Broome & the Kimberley Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life; he couldn’t imagine a world without them. He’s been using Lonely Planet guide- books for over 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kamchatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, Northeast Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company he was supporting! Steve has contributed to Iran, Indonesia and the past five editions ofWest Coast Australia, and come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge somewhere in the Kimberley.

Contributing Writer Michael Cathcart is well known as a broadcaster on ABC Radio National and has presented history programs on ABC TV. He has also taught Australian history and culture at Deakin University and the University of Melbourne. Michael wrote the History chapter. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Charles Rawlings-Way Perth, Perth Region Charles is a veteran travel, food and music writer who has penned 40-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Toronto, Sydney, Tonga, New Zealand, the South Pacific and every state in Aus- tralia, including his native terrain of and current homeland of – plus too many articles to recall. After dabbling in the dark arts of architecture, cartography, project management and busking for some years, Charles hit the road for Lonely Planet in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since. He’s also the author of a bestselling rock biography on Glasgow band Del Amitri, These Are Such Perfect Days. Follow Charles on the socials @crawlingsway and www.facebook.com/chasrwmusic. Charles also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Fleur Bainger Perth Having worn her first backpack to Europe when she was just 10 years old, Perth-based journalist Fleur Bainger gets a heck of a buzz from being a freelance travel and food writer. As Western Australia’s weekly food reviewer for the Sun- day Times Magazine, she’s constantly on the hunt for Perth’s best new eateries, while her weekly ‘what’s on’ slot on 6PR talkback radio means she’s always got the lowdown on events and openings around town. She’s a Lonely Planet Local, a destination ex- pert for the Telegraph (UK) and a regular contributor to Australian Traveller, Escape, ABC radio and more.

Anna Kaminski South Coast WA, Monkey Mia & the Central West, Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and literature of the Americas and the Carib- bean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – November 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 389 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Malaysia All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Top View