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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 277 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. WRITER THANKS Steve Waters Brett Atkinson Thanks to Trace & Heath, Brodie, Abbie, Meika & Kaeghan for midnight arrivals, James, Toby, John, Thanks to Tourism WA and visitor information Sam, Lauren, Dana & the rest of MC for gorge love, Di centres and Parks and Wildlife offices throughout for making us a cuppa during the grand final, Unruly the state. Cheers to WA’s talented craft brewers Ted for getting that trivia question, Roz & Megan for for refreshment on the road, and special thanks to caretaking and especially Hamish & Kaz for sharing Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for another opportu- all those sunsets and sunrises and drowning out the nity to explore my spectacular neighbour. Thanks dust, heat and corrugations with grace, good humour also to my fellow authors, Carolyn and Steve, and the and lashings of ginger Matsos. industrious in-house editors and cartographers. Final thanks to Carol for helping me devour the excellent Hippocampus gin and Temper Temper chocolate ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS when I got home. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Carolyn Bain BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Covering such vast distances and calling to check on Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and some astoundingly beautiful coastline was a joy – my Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. thanks to Tasmin Waby for the commission, and to Cover photograph: Cable Beach/Ulrich Hollmann/ fellow WA scribes Brett Atkinson and Steve Waters Getty for sharing info. In the west, sincere thanks to all those who guided me to find ancient rocks, manta rays, deserted beaches and breathtaking aerial panoramas, and to those who shared a beer, a chat, travel tips and recommendations. 278 BEHIND THE SCENES Destination Editor Charlotte Orr, Saralinda Turner, THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Simon Williamson This 9th edition of Lonely Product Editors Will Allen, Assisting Cartographers Planet’s West Coast Australia Shona Gray, Tracy Whitmey Alison Lyall, Diana Von Holdt guidebook was researched Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher and written by Brett Atkinson, Julie Sheridan Campbell McKenzie Carolyn Bain and Steve Waters. The previous edition was re- Book Designer Lauren Egan Thanks to Sasha Drew, searched and written by Brett Assisting Editors Sarah Richard Gill, Indra Kilfoyle, Atkinson, Kate Armstrong and Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Katie Anne Mason, Graham Steve Waters. This guidebook Connolly, Victoria Harrison, Newman, Helmut Novak, was produced by the following: Wibowo Rusli, Ellie Simpson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279 Index A see also breweries Bunbury 123-6, 124 Ngilgi Cave 133-4 Aboriginal art 13, 19, 231, bicycle travel, see cycling Bungle Bungle Range cell phones 14, 267-8 256-8, 13 Bill’s Bay 186 232-4, 44 Cervantes 118-19 Aboriginal culture 19, 21, 48, birdwatching 40-1 bus travel 272-3, 276 children, travel with 37, 45-6 87-8, 134, 214, 23 Cape Naturaliste 129 bushfires 266-7 CinéfestOz 21 Aboriginal people 98, 238- Rottnest Island 99 bushwalking 17-18, 39- climate 14, 20-2, see 43, 245, 269 Wyndham 234 40, 41 also individual regions cultural tours, see cultural Blues at Bridgetown 22 Bibbulmun Track 40, 155 consulates 262 tours boat travel 272, 276 Denmark 150 Coral Bay 186-8 accommodation 260-1 books 236 Dongara-Port Denison 167 costs 15 activities 20-2 box jellyfish 265 Four Aces 144 Cowaramup 135-6 air travel 271-2 Bremer Bay 16, 160-1 Francois Peron National crime 267 airlines 271-2 Park 177 breweries 25 crocodiles 265-6 Albany 152-7, Hopetoun 161 153 Beer Farm 131 cultural tours 19 amusement parks & Kalbarri National Park 175 Beer Nuts 64 Broome 213-14 rides 46 Mangrove Boardwalk 123 Black Brewing Co 131 Bunbury 124 animals 18-19, see also bird- Melaleuca Cycle-Walk Bootleg Brewery 131 Dampier Peninsula 218 watching, individual Trail 172 species, wildlife sanctu- Boston Brewery 152 Denmark 151 Pemberton Hiking & Derby 221-2 aries & reserves, zoos & Cheeky Monkey Brew- Canoeing 145 wildlife parks ery 131 Devonian Reef National Purnululu National Park Parks 223 aquariums Colonial Brewing Co 131 233 Gibb River Rd 223 Aquarium of Western Cowaramup Brewing Tuart Forest 123 Australia 57-9 Company 131 Great Northern Hwy 226-7 Yaburara Heritage Trail Ocean Park 177 Eagle Bay Brewing Co 131 197 Karratha 198 area codes 268 Feral Brewing Company business hours 15 Monkey Mia 179 111 art 13, 256-8, 13, see Busselton 126-8 Perth 62-3, 89 also museums & Homestead Brewery 111 Busselton Jetty 16 culture 236-7 galleries Bridgetown 143 currency 14 ATMs 264 Broome 11, 48, 205-34, customs regulations 261 Augusta 141-2 206-7, 210, 212, 11 C cycling 41-2, 61, 99, 105, 137, Avon Descent 21 accommodation 214-15 Cable Beach 209, 212, 11 145, 272-3 Avon River Festival 21, 112 activities 213 camping 198 Avon Valley 112-14, drinking & nightlife 216 canoeing, see kayaking & 111 D entertainment 216 canoeing Dales Gorge 201 events 214 Cape Leveque 219-20 B Dampier Peninsula 217-20 festivals 214 Cape Naturaliste 129-30 Batavia Coast 167-75 dangers 265-7 food 205, 215-16 Cape Naturaliste 2 Bathers Beach Art Pre- hitching 272 highlights 206-7 car travel 267, 272-6 cinct 16 Darling Range 107-9, 111 shopping 216-17 Carnarvon 180-1 bathrooms 268 Denham 177-9 sights 209-13 caves beaches 17, 66 Denmark 150-2 tours 213-14 Calgardup Cave 140 Beagle Bay 217-18 Denmark Festival of Voice 21 travel to/from 217 Giants Cave 140 beer 16, 19, 131, 146, 247-9, Derby 220-2, 29 travel within 217 Jewel Cave 142 Derby Boab Festival 21 Broome Mango Festival 22 Lake Cave 140 digital photography 265 Map Pages 000 Broome Race Round 21 Mimbi Caves 226 Mulka’s 107 disabilities, travellers with Photo Pages 000 budget 15 268 280 diving & snorkelling 17, highlights 51 J accommodation 121, 42, 43 history 84-5 jellyfish 265 136-7 Albany 155 internet access 95 Jurien Bay 16, 119-20 drinking & nightlife 139 Broome 213 shopping 94-5 food 121, 137-9, 18 Busselton 126-7 sights 85-9 highlights 122 Coral Bay 186-7 sleeping 90-1 K shopping 139-40 Kalamunda 107-8 INDEX Dunsborough 128 tours 89 Margaret River Gourmet Kalbarri 171-4, 172 Esperance 163 travel to/from 95 Escape 22 Kalbarri National Park 16 Exmouth 189-91 travel within 95 Margaret River Surfing Kalumburu 225 D-M Pro 21 Jurien Bay 16, 119 Fremantle Festival 22 kangaroos , Margaret River Wine Kalbarri 172 Fremantle Prison 85 13 25 Region 9, 130-42, Navy Pier 193 Karratha 197-9 9 markets Ningaloo Marine Park kayaking & canoeing 195-6 G Coral Bay 187 Albany Boatshed galleries, see museums & Markets 156 Perth 61 Dwellingup 105 galleries Albany Farmers Market Rockingham 103 Exmouth 190 gardens, see parks & 156 Margaret River Wine Rottnest Island 99, 101 gardens Region 130-1 Boatshed Market 71 dolphins 40, 30 Gascoyne Coast 180-2 Nannup 143 Bumbak’s 181 Dongara 167-8 gay travellers 78, 262 Ningaloo Marine Park City Farm Market 71 driving, see car travel Geographe Bay 123-30 196 Courthouse Markets 216 Dryandra Woodland 106 Geraldton 168-71, 169 Pemberton 145 Fremantle Markets 88 Duncan Road, the 228 Geraldton Sunshine Rockingham 104 Kalamunda Farmers Dunsborough 128-9 Festival 22 Rottnest Island 101 Market 108 DVDs 262 Gibb River Rd 12, 223-6, 12 Kimberley, the 48, 205-34, Kununurra Markets Dwellingup 105 231-2 Great Northern Hwy 226-8 206-7 Green Head 120 food 205 Margaret River Farmers Market 137 Guilderton 116 highlights 206-7, 206-7 E Market Days 151 Eagle Bluff 176 Guildford 109-10 Kings Park Wildflower Subiaco Farmers economy 236-7, 254 Festival 22 Market 71 electricity 261 Kununurra 228-32 H Twilight Hawkers Market Elizabeth Quay 16 Hamelin Pool 176 Kwongan wildflowers 115 70 embassies 262 Hamersley Gorge 201-2, 30 Yuen Wing 215 environment 251-5 health 262-3 L measures 262 Esperance 162-4 heat exhaustion 265 Lake Argyle 232 Middle Lagoon 218 events 20-2 hiking, see bushwalking Lancelin 116-17 mining 236-7, 251-5 exchange rates 15 history 238-46 Lancelin Ocean Classic 20 mobile phones 14, 267-8 Exmouth 188-92, 189 hitching 272 Laneway Festival 20 money 14-15, 261, 264 HMAS Sydney II Memo- language 14 Monkey Mia 10, 48, 165-82, rial 168 F Leeman 120 166, 10, 30 Fern Pool 202 holidays 265 Leeuwin Concert Series 20 accommodation 165 festivals 20-2 Hopetoun 161 legal matters 264 highlights 166 films 236 Houtman Abrolhos Islands lesbian travellers 78, 262 Moora 115 173 fishing 42-4 Lesueur National Park 115 motorcycle travel 272-6 Hutt Lagoon 171 food 19 Little Ferry Co 16 Mt Barker 157-8 Hyden 107 Fremantle 11, 47, 50-1, 84- Little Lagoon 177 Mundaring 108-9 hypothermia 265 95, 51,
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