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Behind the Scenes

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WRITER THANKS Steve Waters Brett Atkinson Thanks to Trace & Heath, Brodie, Abbie, Meika & Kaeghan for midnight arrivals, James, Toby, John, Thanks to Tourism WA and visitor information Sam, Lauren, Dana & the rest of MC for gorge love, Di centres and Parks and Wildlife offices throughout for making us a cuppa during the grand final, Unruly the state. Cheers to WA’s talented craft brewers Ted for getting that trivia question, Roz & Megan for for refreshment on the road, and special thanks to caretaking and especially Hamish & Kaz for sharing Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for another opportu- all those sunsets and sunrises and drowning out the nity to explore my spectacular neighbour. Thanks dust, heat and corrugations with grace, good humour also to my fellow authors, Carolyn and Steve, and the and lashings of ginger Matsos. industrious in-house editors and cartographers. Final thanks to Carol for helping me devour the excellent Hippocampus gin and Temper Temper chocolate ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS when I got home. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Carolyn Bain BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Covering such vast distances and calling to check on Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and some astoundingly beautiful coastline was a joy – my Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. thanks to Tasmin Waby for the commission, and to Cover photograph: Cable Beach/Ulrich Hollmann/ fellow WA scribes Brett Atkinson and Steve Waters Getty for sharing info. In the west, sincere thanks to all those who guided me to find ancient rocks, manta rays, deserted beaches and breathtaking aerial panoramas, and to those who shared a beer, a chat, travel tips and recommendations. 278 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Destination Editor Charlotte Orr, Saralinda Turner, THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Simon Williamson This 9th edition of Lonely Product Editors Will Allen, Assisting Cartographers Planet’s West Coast Australia Shona Gray, Tracy Whitmey Alison Lyall, Diana Von Holdt guidebook was researched Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher and written by Brett Atkinson, Julie Sheridan Campbell McKenzie Carolyn Bain and Steve Waters. The previous edition was re- Book Designer Lauren Egan Thanks to Sasha Drew, searched and written by Brett Assisting Editors Sarah Richard Gill, Indra Kilfoyle, Atkinson, Kate Armstrong and Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Katie Anne Mason, Graham Steve Waters. This guidebook Connolly, Victoria Harrison, Newman, Helmut Novak, was produced by the following: Wibowo Rusli, Ellie Simpson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279

Index

A see also breweries Bunbury 123-6, 124 Ngilgi Cave 133-4 Aboriginal art 13, 19, 231, bicycle travel, see cycling Bungle Bungle Range cell phones 14, 267-8 256-8, 13 Bill’s Bay 186 232-4, 44 Cervantes 118-19 Aboriginal culture 19, 21, 48, birdwatching 40-1 bus travel 272-3, 276 children, travel with 37, 45-6 87-8, 134, 214, 23 Cape Naturaliste 129 bushfires 266-7 CinéfestOz 21 Aboriginal people 98, 238- Rottnest Island 99 bushwalking 17-18, 39- climate 14, 20-2, see 43, 245, 269 Wyndham 234 40, 41 also individual regions cultural tours, see cultural Blues at Bridgetown 22 Bibbulmun Track 40, 155 consulates 262 tours boat travel 272, 276 Denmark 150 Coral Bay 186-8 accommodation 260-1 books 236 Dongara-Port Denison 167 costs 15 activities 20-2 box jellyfish 265 Four Aces 144 Cowaramup 135-6 air travel 271-2 Bremer Bay 16, 160-1 Francois Peron National crime 267 airlines 271-2 Park 177 breweries 25 crocodiles 265-6 Albany 152-7, Hopetoun 161 153 Beer Farm 131 cultural tours 19 amusement parks & 175 Beer Nuts 64 Broome 213-14 rides 46 Mangrove Boardwalk 123 Black Brewing Co 131 Bunbury 124 animals 18-19, see also bird- Melaleuca Cycle-Walk Bootleg Brewery 131 Dampier Peninsula 218 watching, individual Trail 172 species, wildlife sanctu- Boston Brewery 152 Denmark 151 Pemberton Hiking & Derby 221-2 aries & reserves, zoos & Cheeky Monkey Brew- Canoeing 145 wildlife parks ery 131 Devonian Reef National Parks 223 aquariums Colonial Brewing Co 131 233 Gibb River Rd 223 Aquarium of Western Cowaramup Brewing Tuart Forest 123 Australia 57-9 Company 131 Great Northern Hwy 226-7 Yaburara Heritage Trail Ocean Park 177 Eagle Bay Brewing Co 131 197 Karratha 198 area codes 268 Feral Brewing Company business hours 15 Monkey Mia 179 111 art 13, 256-8, 13, see Busselton 126-8 62-3, 89 also museums & Homestead Brewery 111 Busselton Jetty 16 culture 236-7 galleries Bridgetown 143 currency 14 ATMs 264 Broome 11, 48, 205-34, customs regulations 261 Augusta 141-2 206-7, 210, 212, 11 C cycling 41-2, 61, 99, 105, 137, Avon Descent 21 accommodation 214-15 Cable Beach 209, 212, 11 145, 272-3 Avon River Festival 21, 112 activities 213 camping 198 Avon Valley 112-14, drinking & nightlife 216 canoeing, see kayaking & 111 D entertainment 216 canoeing Dales Gorge 201 events 214 Cape Leveque 219-20 B Dampier Peninsula 217-20 festivals 214 Cape Naturaliste 129-30 Batavia Coast 167-75 dangers 265-7 food 205, 215-16 Cape Naturaliste 2 Bathers Beach Art Pre- hitching 272 highlights 206-7 car travel 267, 272-6 cinct 16 Darling Range 107-9, 111 shopping 216-17 Carnarvon 180-1 bathrooms 268 Denham 177-9 sights 209-13 caves beaches 17, 66 Denmark 150-2 tours 213-14 Calgardup Cave 140 Beagle Bay 217-18 Denmark Festival of Voice 21 travel to/from 217 Giants Cave 140 beer 16, 19, 131, 146, 247-9, Derby 220-2, 29 travel within 217 Jewel Cave 142 Derby Boab Festival 21 Broome Mango Festival 22 Lake Cave 140 digital photography 265 Map Pages 000 Broome Race Round 21 Mimbi Caves 226 Mulka’s 107 disabilities, travellers with Photo Pages 000 budget 15 268 280 diving & snorkelling 17, highlights 51 J accommodation 121, 42, 43 history 84-5 jellyfish 265 136-7 Albany 155 internet access 95 Jurien Bay 16, 119-20 drinking & nightlife 139 Broome 213 shopping 94-5 food 121, 137-9, 18 Busselton 126-7 sights 85-9 highlights 122 Coral Bay 186-7 sleeping 90-1 K shopping 139-40 Kalamunda 107-8 INDEX INDEX Dunsborough 128 tours 89 Margaret River Gourmet Kalbarri 171-4, 172 Esperance 163 travel to/from 95 Escape 22 Kalbarri National Park 16 Exmouth 189-91 travel within 95 Margaret River Surfing Kalumburu 225

D-M Pro 21  Jurien Bay 16, 119 Fremantle Festival 22 kangaroos , Margaret River Wine Kalbarri 172 Fremantle Prison 85 13 25 ,Region 9, 130-42  Navy Pier 193 Karratha 197-9 9 markets Ningaloo Marine Park kayaking & canoeing 195-6 G Coral Bay 187 Albany Boatshed galleries, see museums & Markets 156 Perth 61 Dwellingup 105 galleries Albany Farmers Market Rockingham 103 Exmouth 190 gardens, see parks & 156 Margaret River Wine Rottnest Island 99, 101 gardens Region 130-1 Boatshed Market 71 dolphins 40, 30 Gascoyne Coast 180-2 Nannup 143 Bumbak’s 181 Dongara 167-8 gay travellers 78, 262 Ningaloo Marine Park City Farm Market 71 driving, see car travel Geographe Bay 123-30 196 Courthouse Markets 216 Dryandra Woodland 106 Geraldton 168-71, 169 Pemberton 145 Fremantle Markets 88 Duncan Road, the 228 Geraldton Sunshine Rockingham 104 Kalamunda Farmers Dunsborough 128-9 Festival 22 Rottnest Island 101 Market 108 DVDs 262 Gibb River Rd 12, 223-6, 12 Kimberley, the 48, 205-34, Kununurra Markets Dwellingup 105 231-2 Great Northern Hwy 226-8 206-7 Green Head 120 food 205 Margaret River Farmers Market 137 Guilderton 116 highlights 206-7, 206-7 E Market Days 151 Eagle Bluff 176 Guildford 109-10 Kings Park Wildflower Subiaco Farmers economy 236-7, 254 Festival 22 Market 71 electricity 261 Kununurra 228-32 H Twilight Hawkers Market Elizabeth Quay 16 Hamelin Pool 176 Kwongan wildflowers 115 70 embassies 262 Hamersley Gorge 201-2, 30 Yuen Wing 215 environment 251-5 health 262-3 L measures 262 Esperance 162-4 heat exhaustion 265 Lake Argyle 232 Middle Lagoon 218 events 20-2 hiking, see bushwalking Lancelin 116-17 mining 236-7, 251-5 exchange rates 15 history 238-46 Lancelin Ocean Classic 20 mobile phones 14, 267-8 Exmouth 188-92, 189 hitching 272 Laneway Festival 20 money 14-15, 261, 264 HMAS Sydney II Memo- language 14 Monkey Mia 10, 48, 165-82, rial 168 F Leeman 120 166, 10, 30 Fern Pool 202 holidays 265 Leeuwin Concert Series 20 accommodation 165 festivals 20-2 Hopetoun 161 legal matters 264 highlights 166 films 236 Houtman Abrolhos Islands lesbian travellers 78, 262 Moora 115 173 fishing 42-4 115 motorcycle travel 272-6 Hutt Lagoon 171 food 19 Little Ferry Co 16 Mt Barker 157-8 Hyden 107 Fremantle 11, 47, 50-1, 84- Little Lagoon 177 Mundaring 108-9 hypothermia 265 95, 51, 86, 11, 25, 67 Lombadina 218-19 museums & galleries accommodation 50 Albany Residency activities 89 I Museum 154 M Army Museum of WA 88 drinking & nightlife 93-4 immigration 268-9, 271 Manari Road 219 eating 91-3 Indigenous people, Art Gallery of Western Mandalay 150 Australia 53-5 entertainment 94 see Aboriginal people Mandurah 104-6 ArtGeo Cultural Complex events 89-90 insects 266 Manjimup 144 126 festivals 89-90 insurance 263-4 maps 264 Bathers Beach Art internet access 264 food 50 Marble Bar 201 Precinct 87 internet resources 15 Margaret River 34-7, 47, Bidyadanga Community itineraries 24-31, , 24 121-46, 249, 122, 132, Art Centre 208, 231 Map Pages 000 , 27-8 31 138 Broome Museum 211 Photo Pages 000 281 Bunbury Regional Art Western Australian Nambung National Perth 11, 47, 50-84, 51, Galleries 123 Museum - Albany 154 Park 118 54-5, 58-9, 62-4, Bungalow 212, 231 Western Australian Mu- Porongurup National 11, 66-7 Busselton Museum 126 seum - Geraldton 168 Park 158-9, 158 accommodation 50, Cannery Arts Centre 162 Western Australian Purnululu National Park 65-70 Carnarvon Space & Tech- Museum - Maritime 85 232-4, 233, 44 activities 61-2

nology Museum 180 Western Australian drinking & nightlife 75-9 INDEX Connor’s Mill 113 Museum - Perth 55 146 emergencies 82 Courthouse Gallery 200 Western Australian Stirling Range National entertainment 79-81 Museum - Shipwreck Park 159, 160-1, 41 events 65  M-P Discovery Bay 157 Galleries 85 164 festivals 65 Esperance Museum 162 Wharefinger Museum  115 Fine Woodcraft Gallery 221 food 50, 70-5 144 Torndirrup National highlights 51 Yarliyil Gallery 231 Park 157 Fremantle Arts Cen- history 52-3 Tuart Forest National tre 88 internet access 82 Park 126 Geraldton Regional Art N medical services 82 Gallery 168 Nannup 142-3 Tunnel Creek 222-3 shopping 81 Gomboc Gallery 110 Nannup Music Festival 20 Walpole-Nornalup sights 53-61 Kununurra Historical national parks 44 National Park 149 tours 62-5 Society Museum 229 Alexander Morrison Waychinicup National travel to/from 82-3 Laarri Gallery 226, 231 National Park 115 Park 157 travel within 83-4 Mangkaja Arts 227, 231 Avon Valley National Windjana Gorge 223, , Perth International Arts Marnin Studio 227, 231 Park 112 2 29 Festival 20 Motor Museum 113 Badgingarra National 116 Perth Royal Show 22 Motor Museum of Park 115 New Norcia 114-15 Perth Stadium 16 WA 110 108 newspapers 262 photography 265 Mowanjum Art & Culture Cape Arid National Centre 231 Park 164 Ningaloo Coast 48, 183-97, Pilbara Red Earth Arts Festival 22 Mt Barket Police Station Cape Le Grand National 184-5 Museum 158 Park 164, 5 food 183 Pilbara, the 48, 183-6, 197- Mundaring Arts Centre Cape Range National highlights 184-5, 184-5 204, 184-5 108 Park 196-7 swimming 183 food 183 Nagula Jarndu Women’s Devonian Reef National Ningaloo Marine Park 9, highlights 184-5 Resource Centre Parks 222-3 16, 8-9 swimming 183 212, 231 Dirk Hartog National Nornalup 149-50 Pink Lake 171 National Anzac Centre Park 176 Northam 112 Pinnacles Desert 10, 154 Fitzgerald River National North West Cape 194 118-19, 10 New Norcia Museum & Park 157, 159-60 planning, see also individ- Art Gallery 114 Francois Peron National ual regions Newcastle Gaol 113 Park 177 O budgeting 14-15 Ningaloo Centre 188 Geikie Gorge 223 opening hours 15 calendar of events 20-2 Norval Gallery 221 John Forrest National orcas 16 children 37, 45-6 Park 108 Nostalgia Box 55 Ord Valley Muster 21 internet resources 14-15 Pearl Luggers 211 Kalamunda National outback travel 267 Park 107 itineraries 24-31, 24, Perth Institute of Con- 27-8, 31 temporary Arts 55 Kalbarri National Park 174-5 Margaret River 34-7 Residency Museum 113 P 11, parks & gardens, see repeat visitors 16 Revolutions 110 201-4, 204, 11 also national parks travel seasons 14-15, Rottnest Museum 99 Leeuwin-Naturaliste Albany Heritage Park 154 20-2 Shark Bay World National Park 129 Araluen Botanic Park West Coast Australia Heritage Discovery 108 basics 14-15 Centre 177-8 Lesueur National Park 118, 43 Hyde Park 55-6 West Coast Australia’s Short Street Gallery 211 regions 47-8 Millstream Chichester Kings Park & Botanic Spinifex Hill Studios 200 National Park 203 Garden 56, 66-7 politics 236-7 Warden Aboriginal Lake Monger 60 population 237 Centre 134 229 Whiteman Park 110 Port Denison 167-8 Waringarri Aboriginal Mitchell River National Port Hedland 199-200 Arts Centre 228-9, 231 passports 271 Park 227 postal services 265 Warlayirti Artists Centre Peel Region 104-6 Murujuga National public holidays 265 231 Pemberton 144-6 Park 199 Punurrunha (Mt Bruce) Warmun Arts 226, 231 202 282 Q Yallingup 134, 38 Ross Graham Lookout Monkey Mia Marine Quobba Coast 181-2 Swan Valley 109-12, 111 175 Reserve 179 quokkas 102 swimming 61, 145, 150-1, Vlamingh Head Light- Mornington Wilderness 183, 200-1 house 193 Camp 225 Vlamingh’s Lookout 98 Rainbow Jungle 171-2 R West Loop Lookout 175 Shoalwater Islands radio 262 T INDEX INDEX visas 14, 268-9 Marine Park 103 tax 266 refunds 266 volunteering 269-70 Yongergnow Malleefowl religion 237 telephone services 14, Centre 157 267-8 Rockingham 103-4 Wilyabrup 135-6 Q-Z time 14  Rottnest Island 98-103, W windsurfing 17

walking, see bushwalking  100, 18, 26, 43 toilets 268 wine 19, 247-50 Rottofest 21-2 Toodyay 113-14 Walpole 149-50 Busselton 126 16 water 264 Denmark 151 tourist information 268 Wave Rock 107, 26 Manjimup 144 S tours 276 weather 14, 20-2 safety 265-7 Margaret River 9, 130, train travel 272, 276 websites 15 141, 9 seals 18 travel seasons, see weights 262 Mt Barker 158 Shark Bay 10, 175-80, 10 also individual regions whales 40, 46 Pemberton 145 sharks 42, 195, 266 travel to/from West Coast Albany 155 Perth 64-5 Shinju Matsuri Festival of Australia 271-2 Augusta 142 Toodyay 113 the Pearl 22 travel within West Coast Bremer Bay 160 Wilyabrup 136 smoking 262 Australia 272-6 Dunsborough 128 women travellers 270 snakes 266 Tree Top Walk 12, 149, 12 Fremantle 89 Wongan Hills 116 snorkelling, see diving & Turquoise Coast 117-20 Ningaloo 16, 197 work 270 snorkelling turtles 193, 213, 8-9 Perth 61 Wyndham 234 Southbound Festival 20 TV 262 Southern Forests 142-6 wildflowers 41, 115, 173, 43 Southern WA 48, 147-64, Wildflower Way 115-16 wildlife 18-19, , , Y 148 V 2 13 18 Yallingup 133-5 vacations 265 wildlife parks, see zoos & accommodation 147 Yanchep 116 Valley of the Giants 149, 12 wildlife parks food 147 York 112-13 highlights 148 viewing platforms 16 wildlife sanctuaries & viewpoints reserves, see also bird- Southern Wheat Belt 107 watching, national Diamond Tree Lookout Z spiders 266 parks 144 zoos & wildlife parks 46 State Buildings 16 Barna Mia Animal Eagle Bluff 176 Bunbury Wildlife Park Stolen Generations, the Sanctuary 106 Fishermens Lookout 167 123 243 Broome Bird Observa- Caversham Wildlife Sunset Coast 116-17 Five Rivers Lookout 234 tory 213 Park 110 surfing 17, 40 Gantheaume Point 209 Dolphin Discovery Ningaloo Marine Park Kelly’s Knob 229 Centre 123 Denmark 150 195-6 Kalbarri 172 Kungkalanayi Lookout Dryandra Woodland 106 233 Perth Zoo 59-60 Margaret River 137 Eagles Heritage 140 Mt Clarence 154 Rowley Shoals Marine Perth 61 Malcolm Douglas Wilder- Park 214 Oxer Lookout 202 Rottnest Island 99 ness Park 213

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 283 NOTES 284 NOTES 285 NOTES 286 NOTES MARKO MAMULA

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Brett Atkinson Perth & Fremantle, Around Perth, Margaret River & the Southwest Coast, Southern WA For this edition, Brett uncovered new restaurants, bars and distilleries in Perth and Fremantle, and jumped from beach to forest and back to beach throughout Margaret River and the southwest. In Albany, a poignant highlight was the National Anzac Centre telling the story of brave WWI soldiers. Brett has contributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Africa, Asia, the United States and the Pacific, and covered over 60 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures. Brett also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand (other than History) and Survival Guide chapters.

Carolyn Bain Monkey Mia & the Central West, Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Petersburg and Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia to luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slovenia’s alpine lakes. The Nordic region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure. Carolyn writes about travel and food for a range of publishers; see carolynbain.com.au for more.

Steve Waters Broome & the Kimberley Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life, he couldn’t imagine a world without them. He’s been using Lonely Planet guide- books for over 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kamchatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, NE Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company he was supporting! He’s contributed to Iran, Indonesia and the past 4 editions of and come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge somewhere in the Kimberley. Travel gives you a unique view of the world. Patience, acceptance, resourcefulness and flexibility are all lessons well learnt. Plans change, where some people see obstacles, others see possibilities. Go with an open mind. But go!

Contributing Writer Michael Cathcart Michael teaches history at the Australian Centre, University of Melbourne. He is well known as a broadcaster on ABC Radio National and has presented history programs on ABC TV. Michael wrote the History chapter.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 9th edition – November 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 238 7 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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