Regia Anglorum Authenticity Guide 2015

Women’s Clothing – Angevin (1180–1215AD) Encouraged Optional Allowable Unacceptable (Very Common) (Less Common) (Interpreted or Rare)

Bareheaded women / Headscarves [POOR] teenage girls Hoods [POOR] Obviously dyed hair or Veil or wimple over a cap, makeup

Veils with long tails headscarf or wide [RICH] Tablet or inkle braid headband and that shows Decorated headband headbands the throat worn under veil or wimple Straw hats over veil or Head wimple [POOR] Any tie or cloth fillet worn Open faced veils Barbettes [RICH] [R] over the head covering Metal filet over veil [RICH] Bead necklace Enclosed throat wimples

Shift made from linen, Different colour square or ankle length with a bias Dyed a light colour or Other decoration round facing edged keyhole or oval bleached Visible shift above mid- Dyed a strong colour neck hole Embroidery [RICH] calf Short visible shift, just Natural Annular brooch at throat Pleated underdress above the ankle [POOR] Under Shift Under Tight sleeves with rucking Overdress to mid shin (must be worn with ankle Woollen ankle length Looser fitting sleeves length shift) [POOR] Dress above mid-shin dress with oval or keyhole Decorated with: Dress to mid forearm and style neck hole, long mid shin with no visible Different coloured gores - Braid sleeved tight to wrist - Tablet weave (1 to 3 under shift [POOR] [R] or sleeves Embroidery [RICH] colours) Lacing or cinching at Other decoration

Dress - Brocaded tablet including inkle braid Magyar sleeves sides weave [RICH] Hangerocks or oval Full skirts to dresses, with Rucked sleeves - Embroidery [RICH] brooches some tailoring to body - Silk ribbons [RICH] Dress made from linen ‘Decorative’ brooch [RICH] Cloth sash in same material as dress or

mantle Leather or cloth satchels Small drawstring or No belts or girdles Inkle braid girdle or sacks tagged pouches Short braided or woven Box pouch Long braided or woven Forged snips in sheath textile girdle Modern snips or scissors textile girdle or leather Small knife in sheath

Belt & Bags Belt & belt with buckle with dangling end to mid shin Drawstring pouch

Trefoil brooches

Semi-circular cope style Cloak pinned with pin or Cloaks clasped at the Equal armed brooches cloaks with a tie fastening penannular chest with disc brooch across chest [RICH] Backtrains Cloak Mantles Different coloured lining

Trousers or hose if Bare legs hidden Legs

Nålebound socks

Low shoes or ankle boots Ankle boots (up to top of Tall boots (higher than (to bottom of ankle bone) ankle bone) top of ankle bone)

Bare feet Taller boots 8th C. or earlier patterns Shoes Foot wraps or sock bags

[R] = Restricted; [RICH] = Thegn / Knight / Lord ; [POOR] = Bonded / Serf / Slave

Regia Anglorum Authenticity Guide 2015

Men’s Clothing – Angevin (1180-1215 AD) Encouraged Optional Allowable Unacceptable (Very Common) (Less Common) (Interpreted or Rare)

Cloth “Phrygian caps” Obviously dyed hair Bare headedness Woollen hoods Skull caps Bead necklaces Plain linen coifs

Straw hats (often over a Linen or leather hoods Frisian caps Head linen coif) Nålebound caps [R] Fur caps

Shirt as outer garment

Natural or bleached shirt with hem ending up to 2” Different colour round or made from linen with a above the knee square facing Shirts visible under tunic bias edged keyhole or Shirt made from wool Dyed a strong colour Other decoration oval neck hole Dyed a light colour Embroidery [RICH]

Side split Shirts with skirt gores Long robe [RICH] Under Shirt Under Front split Tunics made of linen Tunics with faced square Side split keyhole style neck hole Shorter tunics un-rucked Tunics made of wool Decorated with: to knee length Loose sleeves Rucked up to knee length - Decorative seams Tight sleeves with rucking Different coloured gores with tight sleeves or sleeves - Braid Tunic closed with Tunics with faced oval - Tablet weave (1 to 3 authentic hook & eye Shorter than 2” above keyhole style neck hole colours) knee level when unbelted Loose sleeves Keyhole or oval neck hole - Brocaded tablet Brooch worn at throat Tunic weave [RICH] Long split front tunics with bias edging Decorated with: - Embroidery [RICH] (calf to ankle length) Neck holes closed with - Inkle braid - Silk ribbons [RICH] [RICH] ties - facing, braid or Dalmatic tunic over long Split front tunics Magyar sleeves embroidery around robe [RICH] Rucked tunics with hems the hem that end up to 2” above the knee

Split end belts Drawstring or tagged Visible leather belt or Buckled leather belts or pouches worn on belt cloth tie Inkle braid belt cloth ties hidden by tunic Long hanging belt Leather or cloth satchels Box pouch Small knife in sheath (possibly with plates) or sacks [RICH]

Belt & Bags Belt & Drawstring pouch Pinned with metal or bone pin Rectangular cloaks Cloaks pinned at chest Cloak ribbons [RICH] Viking jackets pinned at shoulder with Fur lining Edged with different Mantles disc brooch Pinned with penannular coloured facing Cloaks pinned at hip

Cloak Hanging length from waist Hooded mantle Different coloured linings Leather or fur cloaks to knee [POOR][R] Circular style cloaks closed at throat Linen hose

Wool hose tight to legs Leg bindings without leg bindings Tight leather hose worn Braies (on their own) with spurs [RICH] Viking baggy trousers Hose with integral feet Legs Wool trousers tight to legs Loose legged trousers Bare legs [POOR] with no leg bindings

Ankle boots (up to top of Slipper style shoes Low shoes or ankle boots ankle bone) [RICH] Other boot styles (to bottom of ankle bone) Mid-calf boots (pull on or Nålebound socks 10th C. or earlier patterns Bare feet Shoes spiral laced) Foot wraps or sock bags

[R] = Restricted; [RICH] = Thegn / Knight / Lord ; [POOR] = Bonded / Serf / Slave

Regia Anglorum Authenticity Guide 2015

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Regia Anglorum Authenticity Guide 2015

Wargear – Angevin (1180-1215AD) Encouraged Optional Allowable Unacceptable (Very Common) (Less Common) (Interpreted or Rare) Iron ‘hats’ with narrow Helms with aventails Spectacle helms Flat top faceplate or brim worn over mail hood Boar crested helms enclosed helm [K] / linen coif Hardened leather cap Coppergate helms Conical or Domed helm – Secret cervelliere Helms without nasals Helm ‘single piece’ with or Domed face plate helms Sugar loaf helms without nasal Conical or domed helm – riveted or welded panels [RICH] Broad brimmed iron ‘hats’ Mail byrnies Short sleeved mail Mail shirt with integral Footed mailed leg Chest square ventail coif, side closing ventail protection [RICH] [K] and long sleeves (with Separate coifs (should be integral mitts) [RICH] [K] Unfooted mailed leg disguised) protection [K] Side split mail shirt Vandyked mail shirt Long sleeve front split or Splinted arms or legs unsplit mail shirt to knees Leather jack or leather Butted / riveted links up to padded gambeson worn Lamellar / Scale Leather jack, leather or 10mm as armour cloth padded gambeson Tighter surcoat styles Cuir Boilli / Plate armour 6 – 8mm riveted Armour worn under mail over long sleeved mail Separate mail covered 6 - 8mm alternating Loose surcoats over long with hood / coif (1 or 2 gloves riveted & welded sleeved mail with hood / colours) coif (1 or 2 colours); striped Loose surcoats over long Surcoats with halved or designs (possibly with sleeved & hooded mail quartered designs emblem) (1 colour) [K] Cloth padded gambeson worn as armour [R] Simple leather gloves Heater shield [RICH] [K] Kite / flat top kite shield Parallel sided/tower Flat top kite [RICH] [K] with boss Round shield [POOR] shield Painted in quartering or Heraldry [K] [R] Nailed on leather or Rectangular or oval other geometric divisions Kite shield without boss rawhide edge shields Painted in 4 or more Sewn on leather or Painted in stripes or other Painted in other art style

Shield colours [R] rawhide edge repeated geometric or design Kite shield painted with Painted in a single colour design Lenticular shields zoomorphic design Painted in up to 3 colours Target shields [RICH]

2-handed spear or 1-handed spear winged spears with blade Angon Angular shaped heads of 8” – 16” [after 1/1/2017] Spear Leaf shaped heads Worked antler handles Un-sheathed knives

Double or single edged Undecorated sheath Rondel & bollock daggers fighting knives (not seaxes) in vertical sheath Bone handles Composite wood / bone / Unworked antler handles Knife stone handles [RICH] Wooden handles with Wood handles Seax in vertical sheath bark Disc pommels Unscabbarded weapons

Tea cosy / Brazil nut Long straight crossguards C8th & C9th sword types pommels Boat pommels Swords on sword belts Single edged swords Long, curved crossguards Swords on baldrics

Sword Composite wooden / Langseax

leather plain scabbard Decorated scabbards Broadaxes (Dane axe) Axes with beards [POOR]

Mace as a weapon [K] Leather axe loops Francisca Lochaber axe [RICH] Edge protector for axe Metal axe rings Hand axes without beards Glaives Other War pick on long shaft Axes hafted with wooden Crescent bladed axes

wedges Flanged Mace

Self-bow with arrows in Re-curve Self-bow quivers. Bodkin heads Crossbows (locking nut) Slings Javelins Missile Crossbows (rising pin) [R] = Restricted; [K] = Knight ; [RICH] = Thegn / Lord ; [POOR] = Bonded / Serf / Slave

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