Volume 19, No. 1 November, 2019

This year’s Journal highlights Creating the North Sonoma Mountain Ridge Trail access and preservation Kim Batchelder on Sonoma Mountain. Natural Resources Planner, Sonoma County Ag + Open Space Inside Sonoma County Agricultural Preservation Over the next two years, the agency Letter from the Chair and Open Space District (Ag + Open Space) acquired the 47-acre Skiles Ranch and 226- has a diverse and multi-faceted mission. acre Cooper’s Grove. Other critical pieces Tribute: Ted Eliot This mission includes the protection of to the puzzle were an 11-acre property Leaving a Legacy scenic corridors, watersheds, greenbelts, donated by the Roth Family (who also gave agricultural lands and recreation. However, the land for Fairfield Osborn Preserve) and Getting on the Mountain this mission would be impossible to the 84-acre Sonoma Mountain Woodlands complete in isolation. So Ag + Open Space parcel, originally given to Regional Parks Sonoma Mountain Trek has a long history of partnership with to mitigate the impacts of a nearby East Slope Trail local and state partners and agencies that subdivision. Finally, all the pieces were manage our parks and preserves. One assembled for a trail that could gently project that highlights this collaborative climb from Jacobs Ranch for nearly five The first peoples of southern effort is the North Sonoma Mountain Sonoma county, the Coast Miwok, placed oona-pa’is Ridge Trail (“North Sonoma Mountain continued on page 6 — Sonoma Mountain — at Trail”). Starting back in March 2005, Ag +

the center of the world, Open Space embarked on the construction imagining its summit as of a trail from Jacobs Ranch, off of Sonoma “My first assignment for an island in the primordial Sonoma Ag + Open Space was ocean at the beginning of Mountain Road in Bennett Valley, to Jack to develop the North Sonoma time. London State Historic Park. Mountain Ridge Trail. I remember Geologists tell a similar story The vision for the trail had its genesis in visiting a small redwood grove —that Sonoma Mountain’s two innovative efforts that had begun on Jacobs Ranch – the proposed layers of volcanic and fifteen years before. In 1990, Sonoma launching site for this magnificent sedimentary rock, pushed County voters approved one of the first upward by tectonic forces, trail—and just feeling exuberant “public land trusts” in the United States rose from the depths of a about the idea of creating a path to protect agricultural and open space shallow sea. across such a spectacular lands through a quarter-cent sales tax. landscape.” Since then, Ag + Open Space –that “public —Kim Batchelder land trust” – has protected over 118,000 acres, including almost 3,750 acres on and around Sonoma Mountain. In 1992, the Bay Area Ridge Trail Council was formed Our mission is to preserve with the ambitious vision of creating Sonoma Mountain’s scenic, a 550-mile path along the ridge tops agricultural, and natural around San Francisco Bay. Today there are resources by cultivating a over 375 miles of dedicated Ridge Trail sense of place, engaging people throughout the Bay Area. in the landscape, and The North Sonoma Mountain Trail got inspiring them to become its start in 2003 when Ag + Open Space mountain stewards. purchased the 168-acre Jacobs Ranch.

Go to our website: www.sonomamountain.org  allowed) and the visual impact of become officially part of JLSHP and Tribute: privilege. After graduating Harvard, he It was a down deep thing driving Letter new building and lighting from Regional Parks; a conservation easement applied to the State Department kind of them to connect themselves with the major roads. to protect the lands permanently should Ted Eliot on a whim. It took him around the world, central part of the mountain. And from the be signed by the time you are reading this Here’s how we are thinking of SMP’s to consulates in Afghanistan, Russia and they got it done. But it took sixteen Journal. Mickey Cooke, SMP Founder Chair mission: Sri Lanka. At the end of his career he was years. I think because of his work The Petaluma City Council has allocated the man in Washington who collected all in government, Ted learned to tack Our mission is to preserve Sonoma $50K for Lafferty Ranch planning—270 the documents that came into the State when he couldn’t get exactly what Mountain’s scenic, agricultural, more acres of open space on the west side. Department building. Whether it was he wanted. But Pat wouldn’t let him and natural resources by cultivating super secret or just plain, Ted distributed go too far. She was a good engine a sense of place, engaging people in SMP Earns Bronze Seal ratifying ear it to the people who needed to use it. He behind them. They really were a A G Y the landscape, and inspiring them to This rating gives you one more reason to knew everything and had earned a lot of pair. Ted’s love for the outdoors and for the Mountain! become mountain stewards. You all support our work on the mountain! You trust and respect. conservation went back to Roger Tory help this process along every time you can donate through Paypal on our website Meg Beeler Peterson, the grandpapa of American take a friend for a hike, gift the book, or or mail your check to PO Box 1772 Glen After Ted retired, he and Pat built a house birders. Ted learned his birding from Where the World Begins has been a local volunteer with us. Ellen, CA 95442 (envelope enclosed). on Sonoma Mountain. They really wanted this man, along the New England bestseller (Readers and Copperfields Thank you! to connect their property with the trails Changes, News, and Events shoreline. Books) for six months! To all of you who at Jack London Park (see pg. 7) Eventually SMP’s long-serving Treasurer, Jack purchased, gifted, and raved about the they convinced the McCrae family to grant Probably the biggest thing Ted Nisson, who kept track of all the changes book, thank you. To our donors—the a trail easement across their property. contributed to the mountain’s as we moved from a minimal budget to many volunteers who helped make the Then the McCraes sold the land and the preservation was getting the top 300 a more complex system for book sales, book launches so much fun for nearly 600 buyer reneged; he didn’t want a trail up acres of the Developmental Center ended his devoted service this summer. attendees, the vintners who contributed there. Ted went to the homeowner’s moved to Open Space. Ted was Please welcome our new Treasurer, Bob wines, and those of you who made association meeting in Sobre Vista, right on their Advisory Board. The fact Bowler from Penngrove, to our Board. contributions—deep gratitude. below that property. The new owners that they provided $300,000 for it We’ll begin the new year with a special Creating the book has inspired your SMP were there and he just laid into them. was because of him. The 300 acres hike on the East Slope Trail, starting Board and Steering Committee to vision He got fired up and told them what he below that, with the orchard, went from the Eliot land at the top of Grove a broader educational commitment and thought. It was quite powerful. He was to the park, again because he made (making this beautiful trail much more GIFTS! some exciting initiatives for SMP’s next 25 someone who rarely lost his temper—only a great deal of noise about it. Ted accessible). Other experientially-focused years. Where the World Begins makes a fine A great deal of Ted’s connection with if somebody was unfair and did something was always around when there was hikes will begin in Winter 2020. Finally, holiday gift for family and friends. Sonoma Mountain came from his spouse, really wrong. I think he was a little a need for funding. He could find In August 2019, twelve of us gathered our 3rd annual Trek across the Mountain Have it mailed to anyone in the US by Pat. Ted used to say that he watched the ashamed afterwards. But he did the right people to give money for things. That at Sonoma Mountain Ranch for a day with Landpaths will take place April purchasing online. Or get your copies birth of Sonoma Mountain Preservation at thing; people took it seriously. It told you was his big power. Just having him of strategic visioning and planning. Two 10 to 12, 2020 (see pg. 6). Our email at Readers Books, Copperfields, Jack their kitchen table. She was complaining that his heart was where his effort was. walking around behind Pat, his big tall wonderful facilitators guided us in honing newsletter is the best way to get news London and Sugarloaf State Parks, Laurel about development and Ted said, “Why presence, was really good. our mission as we identified fivepotential about hikes like these. Glen, McCormick’s Mercantile, Talisman, don’t you do something about it?” areas of focus: An additional seven hundred and Kenwood Press, or the Petaluma Museum. • Trail accessibility and development twenty five acres of SDC open space will They were a fabulous couple who prodded on open space lands; each other to get things going. Ted would Join Us in 2020! • Experiential education programs say, “If she had something she wanted, Quarterly Steering Committee meetings: bringing people onto the mountain she got it.” She was persistent. And so was January 22; April 22; July 22 & October 28 to encourage connection and he. As an Easterner, he didn’t really know (Wednesdays) 3:30 to 5:30 PM understanding; much about West Coasters. Then he met at the Sonoma Ecology Center, Eldridge • A conference or gathering bringing this wild, red-headed girl and fell in love. (SDC campus. For directions call: 996-9967) landowners, SMP, and PRMD She didn’t want to get married; it took him Guest speakers deepen our knowledge together for better understanding three years to convince her. They were of the mountain at each meeting. wed in Sri Lanka, his first consular post. and collaboration; You’re encouraged to join us! • Expanded publications, including Ted’s diverse experiences shaped him and Donate trail guides, editorials, maps, made him comfortable with everybody. P.O. Box 1772, Glen Ellen, CA 95442 regular email newsletters, and a Keep up with Issues and Events: He was born in a Manhattan brownstone or website update; • Hikes & Events NEW! with Boston wrapped around his neck—his • Advocacy and collaboration with Paypal/credit card grandfather was president of Harvard. • SMP on Facebook • SDC Updates PRMD to consistently enforce at How do you shake that? He would be the County’s scenic guidelines SMP’s current board, from left:Nancy Kirwan, Secretary; Arthur Dawson, • Local Development Challenges www.sonomamountain.org the first to say he came from a family of governing ridgetop building (not Vice Chair; Meg Beeler, Chair; Bob Bowler, Treasurer.

 Go to our website: www.sonomamountain.org Go to our website: www.sonomamountain.org  Cartography by Alex Young, Sonoma Ecology Center Accessible & Protected Lands

Public Ownership (restricted access at some locations) Getting on the Mountain: Private Ownership (restricted access) Flavors of Access

Public Trailhead Sonoma Mountain is a patchwork of public and private land. Public access falls into several categories: • Open public access is found at state and regional parks. You may have to pay an entrance fee, but anyone can walk the trails, have a picnic etc.

• Trail Easements on private property allow public access, but users must remain on the trail. Please respect signs regarding private property--access depends on the continued goodwill of the landowner. The East Slope Sonoma Mountain Ridge Trail (p. 7) is one example.

• Restricted public access is provided at the Fairfield Osborn and Van Hoosear Preserves, both of which have guided walks and activities on a regular basis. They are owned by the state of California and a private landowner respectively (a conservation easement on VanHoosear is held by the county). Other private preserves do occasionally grant access, often through partnering with non-profit organizations such as Sonoma Land Trust, Land Paths and Sonoma Mountain Preservation.

• Handicapped access to trails, picnic areas and museums is found at Crane Creek and North Sonoma Mountain Regional Parks as well as Jack London State Historic Park. All these sites have ADA parking and restrooms.

• No access: Private property is off limits to the public unless you have an invitation from the owner. Portions of public land are sometimes placed off limits to protect sensitive habitat, wildlife, or human safety. In some places and seasons access is denied for certain types of uses (e.g. hiking, biking, equestrian).

eaving a egacy the treasures of Sonoma Mountain—its wildlife In return for giving up a property’s development potential, L L habitat and water, its viewsheds, its recreational the landowner is paid for those “lost” uses. Generally the Arthur Dawson opportunities and chances for quiet time in stricter the limitations, the more control the owner gives At some point, most of us think about the legacy we will nature. up. Besides the financial reward, there is the satisfaction of leave behind—what will be our gift to the future? There contributing to local preservation efforts and the knowledge Protecting a property “forever” requires selling are tangible things, like family heirlooms and “real” estate. that their property is now part of a bigger conservation it to an organization or agency that will steward There are also intangible gifts, like a sense of wonder or an landscape. it; or placing a conservation easement on it while experience or mindset, that we try to impart to the next retaining ownership. A conservation easement is a The terms for conservation easements are open to generation. It’s a compelling idea, the thought of passing voluntary, legal agreement between a landowner negotiation. The owner might be allowed to build additional along something valuable that will outlive our own lifetime. and a conservation organization or agency that structures within established envelopes; or to use part of Gifting land outright, or for a conservation easement, creates permanently limits uses of the land in order to the parcel for agriculture. It all depends on the particular both a tangible and an intangible legacy that lasts forever—or protect its conservation values. An easement conservation values the buyer is interested in protecting. East Slope Sonoma Mountain Ridge Trail. Public access here at least as long as any of us can imagine. Outside the state allows owner to continue to live on and use their When the property is sold or passed down, the new owners is over an easement granted on private property (see pg. 7). and regional parks, more than a dozen easements protect land, and to sell it or pass it along to their heirs. continued on page 6

 Go to our website: www.sonomamountain.org Go to our website: www.sonomamountain.org  Jack London State Historic Park and East Slope Sonoma Mountain Ridge Trail Sonoma County From: Lake Trail To: End of East Slope Sonoma Mountain Ridge Trail in Glen Ellen

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ability of the heirs to keep the land intact. u Park Mill 1,000 Ag + Open Space in working through past London’s stone dam (0.9 mi) and then o The trek fills quickly! S Trap the design, environmental review and Both the Sonoma Land Trust, a private turn right up the hill, still following the private Coon Trail For more info, please contact: S o 400 permitting processes. Under their non-profit, and the Sonoma Ag + Open road, now called the Mountain Trail. n 1,600 Emmett Hopkins o 2,120' guidance, an optimal trail alignment was Space District, a county agency, are m a After climbing through the forest above 1,400 [email protected] E Sonoma a laid out and features were established actively involved in protecting local land Ridge Loop M st the lake and passing two trails on the M ou S private n lo at the trailhead to meet the needs of through easements and acquisitions for o ta p left, you’ll come to a wet spot made by a u in e Bay Area n R S Ridge Trail equestrians, pedestrians, and cyclists. conservation. They can be contacted at: 1,950' i o Ag + Open Space learned many lessons in t d n spring. Almost immediately make a left a g o e Multi-Use i m reaching these ambitious trail goals. Most Sonoma Land Trust: (707) 526-6930 n T a on the Sonoma Ridge Trail (2.1 mi). After r 1.3 A groundbreaking event took place on a Hiking/Bikes i impressive was the collaboration of so www.sonomalandtrust.org about fifteen minutes, the trail angles up Carriger l June 20, 2010 when construction of the Horse/Hiking many partners, neighbors, and volunteers. a canyon with redwoods huddled at the private SCAPOSD Ag + Open Space: (707) 565-7360 easement Hiking North Sonoma Mountain Trail began at Creek Not-for-profit groups such as LandPaths www.sonomaopenspace.org bottom and crosses a fork of Asbury Creek Hiking on Sidewalk Jack London State Park. Simultaneously & Bikes on Street and Sonoma County Trails Council engaged (still running in September) on a bridge. Eliot Family Loop Trail the acquisition of Sonoma Mountain’s 2,100' Connector Trails people and rallied supporters to provide summit with the purchase of the 283-acre A few minutes later, the view opens briefly 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 mile Other Trails input for features that could be offered to What If? Segment Start/End Sonoma Mountain Ranch was celebrated. to the east, then switchbacks begin and 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 kilometer the public. Government agencies secured Sonoma County Superior Court recently there are some beautiful , gnarled ancient Contour interval is 200 feet 1.0 Mileage Between Points This completed the footprint for the 820- matching financial resources to contribute upheld Sonoma Land Trust’s authority manzanita beside the trail. Nearing the acre North Sonoma Mountain Regional Post your photos @bayarearidgetrail and see them on our website. #bayarearidgetrail to construction costs on State Park to protect its conservation easements, top of the ridge, you’ll get a view north About fifteen minutes beyond the junction Park and Open Space Preserve. It took land, and neighbors provided access for enforcing laws used to protect land. New to Mount St. Helena and may catch a is a grove of impressive black oaks. Their another two and a half years to finish The Bay Area Ridge Trail Council 1007 General Kennedy Ave., Suite 3 San Francisco, CA 94129-1405 (415) 561-2595 RidgeTrail.org construction equipment and materials to landowners were found to have “knowingly welcome ocean breeze as you top out. spreading branches and open canopies trail construction, trailhead development, and intentionally” violated an easement may have been created by indigenous remote trail sections. Now it’s easy strolling as the trail winds access road improvements, and signage by relocating and killing heritage oak trees people, who prized black oaks for their along with just a little up and down. You to complete the entire 4.5 mile trail. The partners who envisioned and built and destroying a portion of protected acorns and tended them by pruning. A few ecosystem. They were ordered to cover the can go left or right at the next trail junction Another 1.4 miles, called the East Slope this trail faced many challenges. Yet minutes more brings a view of the Bay and (4.1 mi; Sonoma Ridge Loop)—both soon Sonoma Mountain Ridge Trail, were added cost of restoring the land. the trail’s end at the ‘Eliot Family Loop’ persistence, a long-term vision and bring you to a four-way intersection (4.2 in 2014, south of the state park. The East “We made a promise when we took the (5.5 mi). The Sonoma Ridge Trail and the East and committed collaboration among partners, mi). A sign for ‘Coon Trap’ points downhill. easement on,” said Bob Neale of Sonoma North Slope Sonoma Mountain Ridge Trails are Slope Trail offers panoramic views of advocates and funders resulted in an Take the trail to its right (south), which is sections of the 550-mile Bay Area Ridge Trail Land Trust. We made a promise to the land, The return should go quickly (2 or 2 1/2 the Mayacamas Mountains and Sonoma amazing trail that is thoroughly enjoyed the East Slope Sonoma Mountain Ridge hours). On reaching the parking lot you’ll circling San Franciso Bay. It’s a work in progress, and we made a promise and an agreement with 375 miles open to the public. Trail map Valley, as well as San Pablo Bay and Mt. by Sonoma County residents and tourists Trail. Descend on switchbacks, then climb have walked 11 miles and experienced a with our community that we’re going to do courtesy of the Bay Area Ridge Trail Council. Diablo to the south and east. alike. the things we say we’re going to do. That’s a the far side of a little drainage. part of the mountain few people see. www.ridgetrail.org commitment we take seriously.”  Go to our website: www.sonomamountain.org Go to our website: www.sonomamountain.org  PRSRT STD US POSTAGE PAID O’DELL

Thanks to Our Recent Supporters

DONORS IN-KIND DONATIONS Alice Micklewright John Branscome Terry and Chic Gast Beltane Ranch Winery Arthur Dawson John O’Connor Thomas & Evelyn Hunt Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Vineyards Bob & Sue Anderson Joseph Poletto Tia Pierce Coturri Winery Bonnie Kneibler, MD Juanita Miller Tracy Reynes Glen Lyon Winery Brett Cooper Kelsey Maddox Vivian Rodriguez Hanzell Vineyards Brian Shepard Kim & Tracy Batchelder Wayne Berry Kivelstadt Cellars Photo Credits Carol Williams Laurie Hake Wendy Eliot Lagunitas Brewing Co. Lea & Barry Elkin Whitney Evans Carolyn Greene Laurel Glen Vineyard Page 1: Margaret Henry Wilhelmina Batchelder-Brown Constance Sharpe Paul Hobbs Winery Sonoma Ag + Open Brett Cooper Margareta Freeman Dave Martinelli Marlene Stein Space District Dave Koehler Martin & Dixey van der Kamp Mary J Morrison David Manley ELECTED OFFICIALS Page 2: Donna Halow Mary Lex VOLUNTEERS Meg Beeler & Tom von Tersch Thank you to our Doug Hanford Jill & Larkin Dawson California State legislative Star Dewar Ed & Debbie Cooper Nancy Kirwan Nancy Lee Murray Barbara Linhard delegation, Sonoma Ed & Jan Davis Dan McCormick County Board of Tom von Tersch Erick Larson Niki Gibbons Patrick Treacy Joe Troise Supervisors, and the City Gary & Margaret Treinen Councils of Petaluma, Paul & Sheila Leach Kathleen Mugele Page 3: Greg Shepard Margaret Spaulding Rohnert Park, Santa Gregory & Lori Simpkins Peter Poullada & Nancy Sheppard Matt McGuire Rosa and Sonoma for Eliot Family Gretchen Whisenand Mickey Cooke their support, including Hal Arbit Rory Pool Rosemary McCreary Puddy Lee offical Proclamations Meg Beeler Hal Koch Raymond St. Francis recognizing the work of Helen & Michael Bates Scott Tweten Shirley Chilcott Robbie Leeds Sonoma Mountain Jack & Hope Nisson Sean Elizabeth Lemert Preservation. Page 5: James Roach Skye Hallberg Susan Peterson Arthur Dawson Janet Cooley Dilg Steven Weiner Susan Staggs Vintage House volunteers Jody Monahan SMP Steering Committee Joe Lieber Tamara Tovey  Go to our website: www.sonomamountain.org