Volume 14, no. 1 December 2014

This year’s Journal highlights the Sonoma Developmental Center at a Crossroads Sonoma Developmental Center— John McCaull, Sonoma Land Trust its past, present and future. How often does a place inspire the Report recommends a course us to slow down? Venturing off that threatens closure and possible Inside Highway 12 near Glen Ellen, the sale of the facility. Sonoma Developmental Center— Dreaming Large or SDC—has that time-out-of-time Surplus Property Shifting Visions character. Green lawns, ball fields If SDC is sold as “surplus” property, and shady spots beckon us to the loss to our community will be Grazing for Biodiversity take a walk, or have a picnic. The profound. What will happen to forests on Sonoma Mountain can the current 400+ residents and SMP Successes be explored on trails linked to Jack others who need its facilities? If the London State Park. The Valley floor’s property is sold for development or Mountain Birdlife oak woodlands and grasslands vineyards, what will become of the are accessible through Sonoma wildlife and open space? SDC is the Protected Areas Map Valley Regional Park. Because the heart of the Sonoma Valley Wildlife property is state-owned, it’s easy to Corridor, a crucial wildlife passage The first peoples of southern assume that SDC is protected and for the entire North Bay. The property Sonoma county, the Coast not facing any threats of imminent has an abundant water supply, Miwok, placed oona-pa’is change. But in reality, the future of tremendous habitat value, and the — Sonoma Mountain — at the SDC is at a crossroads. center of the world, imagining capacity to serve an array of health, economic, social, environmental, its summit as an island in Developmental centers are the primordial ocean at the recreational and aesthetic needs expensive to run and serve a beginning of time. for the region. The state’s track dwindling resident population. record of closing developmental Geologists tell a similar story — Legal mandates require that centers is one of top down politics, that Sonoma Mountain’s layers most clients be transferred to with very little public input. How of volcanic and sedimentary community-based care. A 2014 can we convince the state to give rock, pushed upward by Health and Human Services tectonic forces, rose from the our community a voice and listen to Agency report concluded that depths of a shallow sea. creative ideas and and scenarios Developmental Centers will need they may not be considering? to transition “to a new model.” The “new model” for SDC is unclear, but The SDC Coalition Lend the Mountain a Hand In order to serve as an We’re looking for: organized voice for local and • Sonoma Mountain photos regional interests, Sonoma • “Why I Love the Mountain” stories County Supervisor Susan Gorin, • Assistance with updating county agencies, Sonoma FaceBook • Someone to post blogs in Land Trust, Sonoma Mountain WordPress Preservation, Sonoma Ecology • Blogs about the mountain Center, Parent Hospital (anything you find interesting!) Association and others formed • Someone to oversee referrals the “SDC Coalition” in 2012. from County PRMD continued on page 4

Go to our website: sonomamountain.org 1 with the broader community’s need a group, members shared many of for more open space, presenting a the resources on their communal powerful, united front to negotiate land. However, rights to the Letter acorns from a particular oak, or from the the best possible outcomes with the State. As a long-time organizer and fish from a certain pool, were often held and passed down by a Chair change advocate, it is exciting for family. Repeated use established me to see such deep cooperation such rights and could be lost if a within the community! resource was not used regularly. You’ll notice that the enclosed Dreaming Large Landscape-scale decisions, such as envelope asks for your email the common practice of intentional Meg Beeler address. In the long run, we are burning, were made communally. looking at distributing the Journal Sonoma Mountain Preservation has Others, like deciding when to prune electronically. More immediately, or fertilize an acorn-bearing oak, been working behind the scenes we’d like to notify you quickly when were up to the families that held for over 21 years, helping preserve the SDC process needs broad the rights to those resources. Before the scenic, agricultural and natural community input and support. Europeans arrived, the resources resources of Sonoma Mountain. at SDC were probably managed in a patchwork of recognized family Lately, we’ve been dreaming big and communal rights. dreams: imagining all the 800 acres Shifting Visions of SDC wildlands being transferred Arthur Dawson Another vision of ownership to Jack London State Historic Park appeared in 1579, when Sir and Sonoma County Regional Like cloud shadows playing over Francis Drake claimed California Parks…looking forward to walking Sonoma Mountain, many dreams for England under the “Right of two new trails on the mountain’s have come and gone on the lands Discovery” recognized in Europe. East and North Slopes…and of the Sonoma Developmental By 1823, California was a Mexican Center (SDC). Picture the place celebrating the late 2014 opening territory and Father Altimira came before humans arrived—a mosaic here seeking to establish a new of Sonoma Mountain Regional Park of redwoods, grasslands, oak mission. His explorations took him & Open Space Preserve near the woodlands, with lush alders and across the SDC lands. Gazing at summit, comprised of 738 acres we willows along Sonoma Creek. Sonoma Mountain, he saw it both helped preserve. Creatures from freshwater shrimp for what it was and what it could to grizzly bears made it their home. be, describing it as “well covered To help realize these big dreams, Rich with life, it was not subject to with trees fit for building a pueblo.” we’ve created a social media human visions of what it should or presence with a new FaceBook could be. It just was. It was General Vallejo who realized page for timely posts (over 225 likes Altimira’s dream. As the mission already!). On our updated web We can’t know what dreams the page we have a PayPal link so you First Peoples brought. Certainly they can donate directly if you like, and recognized the place as abundant; we’ve been running a “Why I Love enough so that several villages were established nearby. How did the Mountain” campaign, posting those individuals and communities blogs from community members. share the resources and lands Check them out, send your own of the future SDC? According to blog, and, of course, like us! historian William Cronon, native communities claimed “not the As part of our preservation land, but the things that were on work, two Steering Committee the land.” members—Mickey Cooke and Pat Eliot—have been your Neighboring groups recognized representatives at the monthly SDC each other’s right to hunt, fish Coalition meetings. The Coalition is and gather in specific territories. weaving the concerns and issues By agreement, these boundaries of SDC families and employees were generally respected. Within

2 Go to our website: sonomamountain.org children. Frances Bentley Grazing for Biodiversity and Julia Judah dreamed Pat Eliot and Nate Chisolm of a place where such children could be cared Sonoma Mountain Institute for. Passionately lobbying (SMI) comprises 400 acres of politicians and influential woodland and meadow high on citizens, they eventually the southwest flank of Sonoma convinced the California Mountain. Owned by Susannah legislature to designate Schroll, SMI is carrying out a grazing public funds for the idea experiment on the former Moon system was dismantled, Vallejo in 1889. Hill’s ranch was Ranch. The project, certified by claimed the 66,000-acre Rancho chosen as the institution’s the California Certified Organic Petaluma, including all of SDC permanent site. Farmers, provides organic grass for west of Sonoma Creek. In 1839, he grazing while also restoring health At that point, SDC lands built one of the first lumber mills in to the soil. California nearby. Redwoods and returned to a form of communal The Institute’s methods mimic Douglas fir from the slopes of SDC ownership—held in trust by the the behavior of wild ungulates were cut and milled into lumber for State for the benefit of the clients and are designed to restore the pueblo of Sonoma. and broadly, for all Californians. The vision included a measure of the land to its former pristine In the wake of logging, people self-reliance—the patients would condition. Electrically-fenced with a different vision arrived; be “trained to usefulness” while lanes retain herds of 100 cattle in American pioneers. Among them the institution strove to be “self- small paddocks for short periods. were Charity Asbury and her family, provisioning” with a dairy and This encourages light grazing and who settled SDC’s upper lands, cattle operation, vineyards, and diminishes hoof impact while purchasing 640 acres from General orchards. removing thatch and keeping Vallejo. Others came with the manure sparse. The earth is left same idea—to establish small, self- Even as that vision came to pass, open and pliant, ready to benefit sufficient farms. They worked hard, times were changing. Forty years from winter rains. but turning that dream into reality ago, 162 acres of SDC’s former Only 90% of the pasture is grazed; was difficult—the mountain slopes grazing lands were transferred in areas which are not grazed, the were not favorable for agriculture. to the county and became the earth is actually less productive. Sonoma Valley Regional Park. Many sold or abandoned their The Herder Boys: Nate’s View property. Twenty years later, SDC’s upper 600 acres (once Charity Asbury’s) Byron Palmer and I are Sonoma By the 1870s, William Hill had put were declared surplus by the Mountain Institute’s herder boys. together several parcels, including State Department of General While we spend our days with the Asburys’, into a large ranch Services (DGS). The Department’s cattle, we aren’t really in the beef stretching from Sonoma Mountain idea was to lease this land for or dairy business. Our performance across the valley to what is now vineyard development. Sonoma reviews focus on whether we have Highway 12. In so doing he Mountain Preservation and many created good native grassland established the boundaries of the local politicians, organizations and habitat. Cattle are great tools for future SDC. Hill’s vision was bigger agencies had a different dream— helping native grasses and can and more commercial than the that these acres be added to Jack make restoration pay. mountain pioneers’, with 125 acres London State Park. It took five There’s something about a job of vineyard, orchards, hayfields, years of concerted effort, but that that focuses your mind. For us, and cattle herds. From its earliest dream won out. days, the Hill Ranch saw some continued on page 4 public use. A county road ran The Sonoma Developmental through it and in the 1880s, two Center is a big property deserving railroads laid their tracks across it. of a big vision. With the institution Fishermen and hunters also enjoyed moving towards closure, many are the property. working hard to creatively imagine its future. The hope is that whatever The next dream arose in the minds vision emerges will be equal to the of two prominent San Franciscans size, the history and the richness of who were mothers of disabled the place.

Go to our website: sonomamountain.org 3 The Future of SDC biological activity and the speed at which organic matter can be Continued cycled through the system. It’s “The site is a favorite one with not something you can speed up, The Coalition continues to grow, our visitors, and truly excites the which slows down how fast you and now includes state employee mind to the loftiest thoughts. can learn and obtain meaningful unions, state and federal data. In climates with more evenly legislators, Impact100 Sonoma, “The air is ever mild, the sun is distributed rainfall, you can see historical preservation groups ever bright and warming.” results and impacts quicker than in and regional care providers for California. the developmentally disabled. It is a place of “almost ideal The Coalition has also attracted reclusiveness, where nature Drought participation by the Department seldom frowns, and where all We normally keep cattle enclosed of Developmental Services that the elements are benign.” with a single temporary electric operates SDC. Their attendance fence. This allows us to fine tune has built trust and fostered new —1891 description of SDC our management and follow slope lines of communication with state contours, vegetation changes and leaders in Sacramento. of SDC for vineyards into another shady spots under the oak trees. outcome: the land was annexed For an electric fence to work, the The Coalition is not organized to to Jack London State Park. This soil must have enough water to advocate for particular outcomes victory serves as the inspiration conduct electricity. This hasn’t for SDC. Instead, the Sonoma for our current challenge. At the been a problem in our area in Land Trust has raised funds for an th dedication ceremony for SDC’s living memory. But by July 19 , soil 18-month visioning and planning opening in 1891, the keynote moisture dropped so low that the effort that will launch in 2015. speaker’s closing remarks paid soil no longer conducted electricity. The “Transform SDC” Project will tribute to founding activists Julia How do I know this? The fence engage the community to develop Judah and Frances Bentley For failed. The cows celebrated their recommendations for future uses them, he said, “there was no such new-found freedom with a parade of the SDC land, health care and word as fail.” that stretched all over the ranch. infrastructure. Nature is generous when dispensing humility. A Shared Vision Grazing for Biodiversity Working with living things isn’t Continued The most important goal of always convenient. However, a “Transform SDC” is to tap the that involves large animals and living system needs living managers. imaginations, technical skills, nature, and that has a positive Cattle have their place and so intellectual capital and passion effect. While we wait for the cattle do people. It would take a lot of of those who care about Sonoma to finish their paddock, sometimes people to manage all our land Valley. Developing a shared vision we have time to sit under a shade effectively and that’s a good for the future of the SDC site will tree and watch the season unfold. thing. Humans need to be open to require combining community We know by checking our socks weather, sunshine, a connection dialogue with technical expertise that the grass seeds have matured with plants and animals, and the in public-private financing and are falling off the plants. lessons of nature. Otherwise we partnerships, legal issues, land use, Since we are always looking at don’t function properly either. You innovative health care service and the ground, we know there were can’t help but wonder what such a funding models, and ecosystem almost no bay nuts this year. We huge dose of nature would do for management and protection. absorb bird songs and weather our society and…well, I guess those Although there are no perfect patterns and get a good dose of are shade tree daydreams. parallels for this process, the fresh air, sunlight and exercise. For now, we’re pretty content establishment of the Presidio Trust One of the frustrating things for us moving the cattle ‘round in a circle, provides a relevant starting point is that it takes a full year to see the as Byron says. We just hope that for this effort. impacts from our management. someday the circle will be a little It is a pretty delayed feedback We don’t know where we will bigger. cycle due to the Mediterranean end up, but in the late 1990’s, For more information, visit: climate. Winter rains create a short local advocates “transformed” growing season followed by a www.sonomamountaininstitute.org a proposal to develop 600 acres long dormant season, which slows 4 Go to our website: sonomamountain.org Sonoma Mountain Preservation Twenty-One Years of Achievement!

Our mission is to preserve the scenic, agricultural and natural resources of Sonoma Mountain; to expand recreational opportunities there; and to provide a forum for constructive discussion of issues relating to the mountain.

Sonoma Mountain Preservation’s Current Board from left: Arthur Dawson, vice-president; Pat Eliot, Secretary; Jack Nisson, treasurer; Meg Beeler, president.

Go to our website: sonomamountain.org 5 of duck and wading birds like the sheer enormity. Wild Turkeys, an Mountain Birdlife Great Blue Heron. introduced species, have greatly Kathi Province, Kathleen increased in numbers, and are Mugele & Ted Eliot often seen foraging for amphibians, Sonoma Mountain supports a vast insects, and reptiles. American array of bird species in its diverse Robins and Band-tailed Pigeons, habitat and varied ecosystems. The both year-round residents, feast in western slopes and wind-scoured large flocks on Madrone and Toyon mountaintop, which receive berries and clean up unharvested hot afternoon sun, are primarily grapes in the fall. grasslands with occasional copses of oak and bay laurel. The eastern Anna’s is the only year-round, and southern slopes are mostly resident hummingbird. In the summertime or during migration, bay laurel and oak woodland. Red-shouldered hawk Spring-fed streams create cool you may catch a glimpse of the environments that provide much bright orange Selasphorus (Rufous Many birds of prey live on the needed shelter and food. or Allen’s). These jewels sip nectar mountain, helping keep rodent from native plants or feeders; when populations in check. Golden About 120 species breed, migrate raising young, they gather bugs. Eagles live here year-round, through, or visit Sonoma Mountain. although recently their numbers The Golden-crowned Sparrow New knowledge is continually seem to be declining. Red-tailed winters here and nests as far north being developed and the impacts and Red-shouldered Hawks take as Alaska. Her smaller cousin, the of climate change, development advantage of updrafts along the White-crowned Sparrow, is also and agriculture assessed. A five- mountain flanks, and are often a welcomed visitor at wintertime year, breeding-bird atlas project for seen soaring overhead or sitting on feeders. Hungry migrants feast on Sonoma County—sponsored by the a strategic perch. The American local delicacies, dropping in to Madrone Chapter of the National Kestrel and two Accipters—the rest and refuel before continuing Audubon Society—is in its fourth Sharp-shinned and the Cooper’s their long seasonal hegiras. Flocks year of data collection. Results will Hawk—also inhabit the mountain. of Chestnut-backed Chickadees be compared with those of the The gorgeous White-tailed Kite can often include colorful Yellow, original survey in 1995. (Visit: www. be seen hovering over grasslands Wilson’s, Orange-Crowned. and pwrc.usgs.gov/bba). looking for its next meal. Black-Throated Gray Warblers. To learn more Four species of owl reside here—the about our Grasslands host many delightful magnificent Great Horned, the mountain’s songbirds, including the elusive diminutive Western Screech, the bird mysteries, Grasshopper Sparrow, Lark Northern Pygmy and the Barn Owl. the annual Sparrow, Horned Lark, and In the past, old-growth, forest- Audubon Savannah Sparrow. Killdeer and dependent Spotted Owls have Christmas Western Meadowlarks, once nested in the area. Noisy, croaking bird count Anna’s Hummingbird more commonplace, find refuge Ravens are common, as are Turkey is a great from vineyard development Vultures, who use their sense of way to see and learn many in uncultivated land. Western smell to find the carrion they clean species in a single day (See: www. Bluebirds and Lazuli Buntings up. sonomabirding.com.) The birdlife contribute their impossible brilliance of Sonoma Mountain is worthy of a to the landscape. So do Black- Woodpeckers, including the lifetime of study and observation; so headed Grosbeaks and Western Pileated, Acorn, Hairy, Downy, is carrying a pair of binoculars when Tanagers nesting Nuttalls, Red-breasted Sapsucker walking on the Mountain. in the oak and Northern Flicker forage on woodlands. The insects in the bark of decaying Sonoma Mountain Preservation’s few ponds on the trees. The Pileated is our largest work to protect bird habitat is mountain attract woodpecker at 19 inches. With a critical for our feathered friends! Canada Geese, majestic ruby red crest, it brings a a few species sense of awe with its undulating Western Meadowlark flight, loud squawking, and

6 Go to our website: sonomamountain.org Go to our website: sonomamountain.org 7 Nonprofit U.S. Postage PAID Petaluma, CA Permit #201

Thanks to Our Recent Donors

Valerie Arelt Marina Balchunas Allen & Donna Jones Starr Rohrman John Barinaga Alec Peters, Kenwood Press Morton & Sue Rubin Meg Beeler & Tom von Tersch Hal Koch Kate Sater Christina E Bertea William G. Larsen Susannah Schroll Barbara Blake Terry Larson John Sheehy & Laurie Szujewska John Branscome Paul & Sheila Leach Tamara Tovey Richard & Anne Bryan Roger Leventhal Trevino Trevino David & Janet Cain Don & Kaye Lounibos Marianne Weber Mickey & Erik Cooke/Holbek John Maderious Michael Weihman Arthur & Jill Dawson Matt & LarRee Maguire Leslie P. Whiting Patrick Dwyer Robert & Nanci Mathison Carol Williams Pat & Ted Eliot Rosemary McCreary Kevin Wilson Deborah French Frisher Ellen McNight Celeste Winders Joan Geary Thomas & Mary Meyer Photo Credits: Marilyn Goode Kathleen Mugele Page 1: Sonoma Ecology Center Page 2: Sonoma County Museum Richard & Wendy Grahman J’Anny & Edwin Nelson (loggers) Doug Hanford Jack & Sheila Nichols Page 3: Fred Berger Jonathan Hayden Jack & Hope Nisson Sonoma Mountain Institute Page 6: U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service Nina T Holland James Patrick (Meadowlark & Hummingbird) Winifred8 Jebian Go toGrace our website: Pratt sonomamountain.org Ingrid Taylar (Hawk)