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CONTENTS cover story ARCH 2016 HOMES & TRAVEL M and a harbourside penthouse 22 LET THERE BE LIGHT to a thatched farmhouse and a How Susan Stuart transformed Victorian country pile, check FREE a former arts club in Penzance out our latest selection of properties GIFT into a boutique guesthouse and for sale on the coast this month the house of her dreams 86 OUT OF THE BLUE A restored 33 GET THE CLASSIC LOOK cabin by the sea tucked away in a Decorate your home with bold cove on the Berwickshire coast furniture, stylish accessories and hints 92 WEEKEND IN… Ravenglass. of colour for a tasteful spring scheme Anne-Claire Heels tries husky-sledding, LIZ EARLE 36 BLUE IS THE COLOUR Make visits a castle and boards a steam a statement with these on-trend train for an adventurous mini-break OFFER INSIDE indigos and cobalt ﬁ nds 102 TRY IT NOW Gabrielle Jaffe See page 44 for 47 20 HOMES TO BUY BESIDE heads to the West Sussex coast this month’s THE SEA From a coastal tower for a day of willow weaving subscription deal THE THIRSTEA VAN BY ANTHONY GREENWOOD COVER PHOTO THE THIRSTEA VAN

coastmagazine.co.uk 3 COAST CONTENTSCONTENTS ARCH 2016 M March to late October) you’ll fi nd an in a sprawling, vibrant, wildfl ower ingeniously converted old French when its survival was under threat meadow high above the river. Today Citroen van – alias The Thirstea Co in 2013, the pub has been brought it is converted into a gallery and (thethirsteacompany.co.uk) – serving back to life, its terrace overlooking self-service tea shop (open late tea and coffee in the stable yard. SECRET the water for warm summer days, April to October), with luxury holiday ‘We get everyone from daily dog complemented by a quirky and cosy accommodation (kestlebarton.co.uk). walkers to beach goers, often interior, not to mention a wood burner 55 THE TEAM’S TOP 10 Each visitor here feels like they alone surprised to see our little van in the coast for those chilly winter evenings. have discovered this other world. courtyard,’ says Seth Richards of Cornwall has no shortage of cafés WONDERFUL WALKS The Thirstea Co. ‘But once they’ve and tea shops, and a number are, had a cuppa or a piece of cake, ThereCORNWALL are many stunning areas on the Cornish coast still waiting to be From here, there is a lovely walk pleasingly, hidden to the untrained eye. they are often back, methodically that winds over fi elds and through If you fi nd yourself walking the coastal working their way through the menu.’ discovered. Here, we uncover someNicola Smithof our favourite hideaways… woodland, skirting alongside eerie WORDS footpath on the Roseland, above Further west is Perranuthnoe, Frenchman’s Creek, with its tree-lined Towan Beach at the southern most a pretty village found down an CORNISH HOTELS all year round with locals. Many people banks and long-forgotten shipwreck, tip of Gerrans Bay, cut inland to Cornwall’s secrets. Parking is a unremarkable turning off the ornwall. Its charms wouldn’t know it was there.’ until you stumble across Kestle Porth Farm, where (from the end of good 10 minutes’ walk away, while draw masses of tourists If you follow the river’s winding way Barton, an ancient Cornish farmstead the fi nal woodland descent to for much of the year, inland, you come to the Ferry Boat Inn the beach is moderately steep, and many of its beaches, overlooking Helford Passage Beach, C deterring many people from which teems with people walks, restaurants and tea shops visiting. But it is worth the effort. on summer days. Yet Grebe, just heave with visitors in the summer The beach reduces to a narrow stony minutes away, remains an idyll. months. Yet, magically, it retains 56 CORNWALL PROPERTY slither at high tide, its gently curving Travel by water further along the some mystery. Pockets of the county form creating a private sanctuary. picturesque Helford, perhaps by remain under the radar, familiar It’s also a perfect place for a quiet kayak, or by taking the short ferry ride only to locals, from remote beaches summer’s evening swim, when all across from Helford Passage Beach, to hidden walks, tucked away seems right with the world. Celia and you will also stumble across the eateries to charming places to stay, Tuckfi eld, a local resident who Shipwrights Arms, a fi ttingly thatched Cornwall frequented only by those in the know. regularly walks her dog at Grebe, is and whitewashed pub at the heart of Sitting on Grebe Beach, on the reluctant to share her sanctuary: ‘It is Helford village. Rescued by villagers Take inspiration from northern banks of the beautiful Helford HOTSPOTS so secluded and tranquil, and popular River, is a perfect place to contemplate guide these coastal locations Thinking of making a move to the Cornish coast or simply looking for an amazing location to enjoy a coastal getaway? 62 MOVE TO… BUDE For a thriving Our Cornwall Guide has it all – an array of amazing hotels, The Thirstea Co, a travelling tea room, is based above Towan restaurants and beaches to choose from. Enjoy! Beach from late March to October

67 COAST outdoor scene and great beaches coastmagazine.co.uk

19/01/2016 12:39 .co.uk 66 COAST coastmagazinecoastmagazine.co.uk

CORNWALL GUIDE 66 SECRET CORNWALL Inspiring P066_COAST_MAR16_SECRETCORNWALL.indd 66-67 Move to... This small, friendly seaside townBUDE in North Cornwall offers glorious hideaways off the beaten track beaches, stylish seafront restaurants and walks along a wild coastline

words Lesley Gillilan illustration Tom Jay he Victorians called it the ‘Brighton of the West’, 71 10 BEST… THINGS TO DO IN Tand it’s fair to say that Bude was cornwall’s first proper tourist destination: a fashionable WHAT’s InsIde watering hole with magnificent beaches, soaring cliffs and views that make the heart sing. alfred Lord tennyson was one of many captivated visitors. CORNWALL Exciting places to things went downhill Top 10 hoTels when the railway CAN YOU closed in 1966, AFFORD IT? leaving the town Bude: £280,133 stranded, way up Stratton: £257,025 on the north coast Cornwall: £252,876 – so close to the uK: £284,352 property hotspots Devon border that average houSe priCeS: visit and stay [deCemBer 2015]. SourCe: Zoopla some say it’s not (www.Zoopla.Co.uK). even proper cornwall. a slow revival over aBoVE Bude work prompted a move to Bude It’s still a bit off the beaten the last 20 years and Harbour LEFt The River Neet in 2004. ‘I had no connections track, but Bude has enjoyed since it was voted ‘Best coast Resort’ at the 2015 British flows through there at all,’ she says. a the town centre t first move To: BUDe travel awards, now seems before joining they searched the countryside

a good time to take a look. the sea at for somewhere to match the Summerleaze First impressions are of a Beach cotswold village they’d come 77 CORNISH DINING WITH A rather haphazard town; almost from, but in the end, Bude as though its buildings have won them over. ‘the location is been thrown at the landscape brilliant,’ she says. ‘We love the secret cornwall and left to fall wherever they wildness of the coast, its surfy fancy – straggling around the beaches and outcrops of rock.’ edges of a clifftop golf course, since they moved, the town has changed for the better. WHAT YOU CAN GET FOR YOUR MONEY on the banks of the River Neet Here are some of our favourite properties for sale Clifftop eateries, on-the-beach or straying into surrounding ‘It’s got a bit more style – with £696,000 VIEW more places to eat and more downland. But where else in £485,000 10 BesT Things To Do cornwall has a canal sea-lock, a independent shops. But it’s still £325,000 £250,000 mock castle built on sand, and quiet and not too touristy. Bude

53 a beach called ‘summerleaze’? is very much a family resort – for and, says local resident Rachel people who love the outdoors.’ SHUTTERSTOCK

Barton coates, ‘Life in Bude the small, friendly town, has WOW HOUSE IoN this impressive 1920s arts BEACH VILLA at is all about the beaches.’ also proved the perfect place CHARACTER COTTAGE & crafts-style house in central close to crooklets Beach, GOLDEN OLDIE restaurants with views for Rachel’s two girls, Daisy, 11, this terraced villa has eight at clifftop Upton, on the cafés and Michelin-starred food Rachel, who runs her own Bude has seven bedrooms on old Post office Hill in bedrooms, smart contemporary southern outskirts of Bude, design company, wasn’t keen and Millie, 14, to grow up in. and lots of original panelling, this charming cottage has stratton (less than two miles ironmongery and stained-glass interiors and spectacular views from Bude), this Grade II-listed my ILLUstR on the idea when her husband’s ‘I can go to work and let the kids of the golf course and the coast. two bedrooms, beams, a wood windows. Colwills (01288 mid-terrace property has three ALA burner and pretty gardens. s whizz off to the beach and meet 355828, colwills.co.uk). Bond Oxborough Phillips (01288 bedrooms and a big, grassy Bond Oxborough Phillips (01288 PH

355066, bopproperty.com) a 62 coast coastmagazine.co.uk . 355066, bopproperty.com). town garden. Colwills (01288 355828, colwills.co.uk). GR cornish recipes oto PH Recipes from P062_COAST_MAR16_MOVETO.indd 62-63 82 CORNISH CUISINE coastmagazine.co.uk 63 coast PHOTOGRAPH ILLUSTRATION ALAMY SHUTTERSTOCK Saltwater Kitchen Cookbook 19/01/2016 12:40

P053_COAST_MAR16_CornwallOpener.indd 53 19/01/2016 12:13

FEATURES 40 ISLAND HOME Alex Fisher 15 40 speaks to Liz Earle about the company’s Isle of Wight home 98 MUSIC AND THE SEA The stories behind traditional sea shanties 106 MAKE YOUR OWN MARBLE VASE Be creative with nail varnish and plain vases REGULARS 8 PICTURE THIS Lobster in Staithes 11 BEACHCOMBER News, art, people, styles and events by the sea 17 coast COMPETITION Win a three-night luxury break in Cornwall 21 MARINE LIFE Maya Plass on the curious biologies of a marine creature 34 COASTAL WARDROBE His ‘n’ hers fashion for all weathers 36 44 SUBSCRIBE TO coast And receive a Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish 109 THE COASTAL GARDENER Frances Tophill on the best bulbs for spring 110 WALK OF THE MONTH The Isle of Sheppey, Kent 111 YOUR COAST Get in touch with us 112 WHERE TO BUY Stockist details 114 SHORE SPOTTER’S Richard Harrington takes a look at seabirds 122 MY COAST Eddie Izzard on memories of the De la Warr Pavilion

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twitter.com/struttandparker struttandparker.com

Kea, Cornwall Guideprice £895,000

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*The EnjoymentPromise is onlyapplicable to guests who have not cruised on aFred. Olsen Cruise Lines (“FOCL”) ship before. It excludes PartyNights and cruises of 4nights or less. The promise only applies to bookings made fordepartures morethan 12 weeksahead. The EnjoymentPromise only applies to passengers who have contracted with FOCL andexcludes cruises on vessels operated by FOCL butbooked through 3rdParty operators. Should youwish to invoke theEnjoymentPromise, youwill need to inform Guest Relations within 48 hours of sailing at the latest.FOCLwill arrangeand payfor aﬂightand/or transportbacktothe UK.FOCLwill refund the cruise cost only but will not refund other costs. **Cruise Sale offers arecombinable with Freedom Faresonly,are available on cruises with durations of 5to35nights, inclusive, and exclude cruise W1610 and Grand Voyage sectors. Cruise Sale offers arevalid forbookings made between 2nd December 2015 and 2nd March 2016, inclusive, and aresubjecttoavailability.Not all offers arecombinable.Please refertoFOCLwebsite forfull Terms &Conditions. E&OE. ed’s LETTER

WELCOME

’m making plans for 2016, researching where to spend a weekend Iaway, thinking about what new wildlife encounters I might experience and who has opened a great new restaurant overlooking the sea. There’s such an abundance of inspiring adventures to be had, it’s almost impossible to choose between them. However, unlike many travellers, all of my trips will take place within the British Isles. I often think I’ll plan more holidays abroad if I run out of ideas in the UK, but there is such a plethora of exciting escapades to be had here that I can never fit them all in. Over the coming year coast will visit Scotland, Ireland and Wales, and dig out new, gorgeous destinations across England to inspire you to discover the adventure on your doorstep. To help you plan your next break we’ve created our first ever Cornwall Guide. Turn to page 53 where you will find the best hotels to visit, great restaurants with stunning sea views and those secret, hidden beaches that are still empty in the summer holidays. Look out for our next issue, which will be full of the latest unusual and quirky Best British Breaks. Do email us with your own favourite destinations!

dlthfy to discover your perfect coastal pastime, your favourite way to spend a day by the sea or just to hear your views on coast. Get in touch via Facebook and Twitter, or email us at [email protected]. For subscription queries, please email [email protected].

@coastmag facebook.com/coastmagazine

THE CREW THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS share their coastal musings

ANNA MARIA BARRY PAUL RYAN-GOFF DOUGLAS GIBB Anna is a cultural historian South Devon-based Douglas is based in a based in London. She photographer Paul travels seaside town on the Forth writes articles on history, far and wide with his work, Estuary and loves to swim in art and music for a range but is always excited to the sea. He photographs of magazines, which allows return to his home on the interiors, architecture and her to share her passion British coast. On page 22, lifestyle features for UK for the past. On page 98 he photographs Penzance’s magazines and interior Anna investigates the link Chapel House. designers. On page 86, he between music and the sea. Which is your favourite place to visit in captures life in a beachside blue wooden cabin. Which is your favourite place to visit in Cornwall? Cornwall? I’ve always loved St Ives for its cafés, Which is your favourite place to visit in Cornwall? Tintagel has to be my favourite place. Its famous beaches, galleries and crowds. By contrast There is a sea swim, which sets out from castle has inspired artists and writers for centuries, though is Roseland, near St Mawes, with its Penzance and takes in some of the wilder spots, largely due to its association with Arthurian legend. beautiful coast, estuary walks and lack of crowds. including swimming out to Godrevy Lighthouse.

coastmagazine.co.uk 7 COAST 8 coast coastmagazine.co.uk picture this Lobster in staithes This giant, nine-foot-long lobster sculpture was one of two installed in Staithes as part of the fishing village’s annual arts festival. While this coral-coloured one, representing the cooked crustacean, was left on the beach, an aquamarine-coloured ‘live’ lobster sculpture was erected on the outer harbour wall. Both were created by Emma Stothard, a Whitby-based artist who specialises in willow sculpture. ‘It was amazing seeing them arrive through Staithes’ narrow cobbled streets,’ recalls Tony Bartholomew, who took this photograph. ‘I shot this picture with the people flying the kite behind to give a sense of scale.’ To see more of Emma’s work, visit emmastothard.com and turn to page 102 to see our feature on a willow sculpture class. For more information on the festival, see staithesfestival.com.

coastmagazine.co.uk 9 coast go

Traveltothe IsleofWight this SummerwithWightlink,the leading cross-Solent ferryoperator.Witha choiceofthree fast convenientroutes from Portsmouthand Lymington,all within easy reachofthe mainland road and rail networks, travelling to theIsleofWight by foot or car is easier with WightlinkFerries. stay

TheIsle of Wight haseverything to offerindividualsand families, with Your Island break is exclusive deals on some of the ﬁnest hotelsand achoiceofbeautiful * cottages ideal forthatrelaxinglong just 22 minutes away weekend on the not so farawayIsland. do

Enjoy the charm and tranquillity,or the history andculturethatthe Island can provide. Forthose with more activity in mind and agreat familyday out,you’ll be spoilt forchoicewith the thrillsand excitementofmajor attractions to suit all ages. Youcan exploreevery corner of this beautiful Isle with safecycling routes, breath-taking coastal and cross Islandwalks, as well as visits to award- winning beaches. TheIsle of Wight is the placetobe, let us Download ur free take youthere. yo p ghtlink Ap Booknow at Wi go’ for‘on the Island wightlink.co.uk inspiration!

*PortsmouthHarbour Station to Ryde Pier Head in 22 minutes. PortsmouthtoFishbourne in 45 minutes and Lymington to Yarmouthin40minutes. Every month, we trawleachcomber the nation’s coastline to bring you news of the people, placesB and exciting goings-on that are worth knowing about

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEwS • wILdLIfE •

FIND of the MONTH Custom-made glass Shoal386 light installation, price on request, Scabetti (scabetti.co.uk).

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE • CATCH of the DAY... What’s ﬂ oating our boat this month

1 THIS FUDGE 2 THIS CUSHION 3 THIS CANDLE 4 THIS HANDWASH Embracing the trend for Bring thoughts of the sea Surround yourself with Hand-blended with sage, sweet and salty treats, this to your home with this coastal aromas from this rosemary, sweet orange Caramel Sea Salt fudge navy and turquoise 100 per Sennen Sea Breeze Candle, and aloe vera, this Chef’s is produced in Cornwall cent cotton embroidered made from sustainable Hand Wash is natural, by artisan confectionery cushion. The design is soy wax and contained deep-cleansing and kind company Buttermilk inspired by coastal coral in stylish packaging (£12, to the environment (£15, (£3.99, buttermilk.co.uk). (£29, atkinandthyme.co.uk). seasaltcornwall.co.uk). trevarnoskincare.co.uk).

WHAT’S FLOATING YOUR BOAT? Let us know on our facebook page, facebook.com/coastmagazine, or email us at [email protected]

PAINTS THAT POP coast Taking inspiration from Cornwall’s BOOK OF THE Mousehole and St Ives, to St Mary’s MONTH and Bryher on the Isles of Scilly, Keith Browning creates rapid sketches in pen and ink, then adds watercolour before scanning the images and manipulating them digitally. It’s at this point that he modi es the colours to make his Giclée prints stand out. We love this Bryher Beach Studio piece (keithbrowningart.com). ABOUT A BAY In her recently published book The LITERARY WAVES Gathering Tide, author Karen Lloyd takes readers on a series of walks Make sure to visit Weymouth that traverse 60 miles of evocative on 12-13 March for the literary coastline. She explores the stories festival Weymouth Leviathan. of the places, people, wildlife and This two-day celebration history of Lancashire’s Morecambe incorporates lectures from top Bay, re-discovering memories in a authors, a chance to chat to moving account. The Gathering Tide: A Journey Around the Edgelands them about their work, as well of Morecambe Bay by Karen Lloyd as a screening of Moby Dick (£12.99, Saraband Press). (weymouthleviathan.org.uk).

12 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

TEN THINGS to do THIS MONTH

ADMIRE FLORA BRIDLINGTON 5 5-6 March See a vast and brilliantly vibrant selection of orchids SEE COASTAL ART at the Burton Agnes Orchid PADSTOW Festival. These will be 8 All year round available to buy, but ﬁ rst, The Jane Reeves Gallery listen to an expert talk and on Padstow harbour is learn about caring for your decked out with ceramics, new plant (burtonagnes.com). prints, sculptures, jewellery and mosaics to evoke the GET GEEKY spirit of the sea in you EDINBURGH (janereevesgallery.co.uk). 626 March – 10 April UNCOVER NEW MUSIC Expect two weeks of CRUISE AN BANGOR family-friendly fun at the ISLAND 1-6 March Edinburgh International 9 IRELAND 1 Science Festival. The event 27 March – 3 April A celebration of contemporary music, the includes discussions, Take to the seas with Fred Bangor Music Festival brings talented artists workshops, performances Olsen on its seven-night and a range of exhibitions Easter Ireland cruise. to North Wales this month. The programme (edinburghfestivalcity.com). Holidaymakers will visit this year includes performances, masterclasses Belfast, the Giant’s Causeway, Dublin and Cobh in County and lectures (bangormusicfestival.org.uk). Cork (fredolsencruises.com).

DISCOVER WILDLIFE MAKE CHOCOLATE Festival will have something 1 0 CHRISTCHURCH LYME REGIS to tantalise your inner explorer. 13 March 219 March Try the full moon walk or a On Christchurch’s harbour, During a full-day chocolate landscape photography viewings of lapwings, egrets course with Chocolate Amour, amble (ireland.com). and kingﬁ shers are popular. students will learn tempering, BRUSH UP ON Explore with an RSPB guide dipping and moulding MOOCH AROUND YOUR WRITING for an enhanced wildlife techniques, and come away BROADSTAIRS 7DOOLIN experience (rspb.org.uk). with their sweet creations 426-28 March 4-6 March (chocolateamour.co.uk). Now in its fourth year, the If you’re passionate about Broadstairs Spring Fair is the written word, take a trip EXPLORE DUBLIN bringing over 50 stallholders to Doolin Writers’ Weekend DUBLIN to Pierremont Park. Market and participate in readings, 3 25-27 March browsers will have the chance literary tea parties, publishing Whether you’re a novice to try and buy food and seminars and workshops walker or an experienced drink from a host of local for writing ﬁ ction and poetry

ANDY HAY/RSPB IMAGES, ALI WIGHT, VISIT WALES IMAGES, ALI WIGHT, COMPILED BY MADELEINE BARBER PHOTOGRAPHS ANDY HAY/RSPB hiker, the Dublin Walking producers (visitthanet.co.uk). (doolinwritersweekend.com).

coastmagazine.co.uk 13 COAST

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE • COOLCOOL CAFÉ CAFÉ DISH OF Alex Fisher eats at the Porthminster Café, St Ives, Cornwall WHET MY APPETITE Excellent local HOW’S THE MOOD? Beach life THE MONTH seafood combined with freshly at its best: super stylish but still picked herbs and vegetables relaxed enough for flip-flops. from their own kitchen garden. CAN I SEE THE SEA? The café sits We tried the Seafood Linguine, directly on the beach and the which was packed with Cornish views are heavenly. There’s a crab and mussels. long stretch of white sand and WHAT’S ON THE MENU? Dishes turquoise sea. If it’s warm enough range from Cornish Chowder you can sit out on the balcony with Brown Shrimps and and look out for seals. Smoked Fish, to the more WHAT’S THE DAMAGE? Light lunches complex evening dishes such start at £8.95. In the evenings as Grilled Cod Fillet with Caper starters are around £8 and main Dumplings, Brown Crab Velouté courses between £16 and £24. and Surf Clams. Their take OPENING TIMES The café reopens on Petit Fours makes an ideal after its winter refurbishment on alternative to a heavy dessert, 13th February, just in time for which they serve with Umeshu, Valentine’s Day. To book call Smoked Venison Tartare, a Japanese dessert wine. 01736 795352. Red Cabbage Ketchup & Trufﬂ ed Egg Yolk Jam

• 80g venison fi llet, • 3 tbsps champagne diced vinegar • 1 tbsp shallots • 1.5 tbsp Dijon • 1 tbsp capers mustard • 1 tbsp cornichons • Pinch of salt • A few dashes • Pinch of pepper of truffl e oil • Pinch of caraway Red Cabbage Ketchup seed • 450g red cabbage, • 1.1g xanthan gum chopped • 5 egg yolks • 5 tbsps red wine • Drizzle of truffl e oil

METHOD 1. For the venison, combine all the BIG FISH TO FRY ingredients and season. Support sustainable shing 2. Combine the cabbage and red wine in and preserve Cornwall’s marine a sousvide bag and cook in a water bath biodiversity by giving family-run at 95˚F for 90 minutes. Combine with other online service The Cornish Fishmonger a try. It has over 30 ingredients and blend well in a food species of seafood to choose processor to form a purée. Pass through from, all freshly shed from a fi ne sieve and cool. Cornish waters. Your choice can 3. For the truffl ed egg yolk jam, cook the then be delivered to your door yolks at 64˚F for 2 hours in a water bath. within 24 hours of it being landed. Pass through a sieve and season with salt, Plus, for every lobster bought, pepper and a drizzle of truffl e oil. the business will donate £1 to the 4. Plate each element and serve with toast. National Lobster Hatchery

THE SALT ROOM RESTAURANT, 106 KING’S ROAD, BRIGHTON ROOM RESTAURANT, RECIPE THE SALT ROOM RESTAURANT PHOTOGRAPH THE SALT (thecornishﬁ shmonger.co.uk).

14 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEwS • wILdLIfE •

cornish surferoast Lucie Donlan oncharacter the thrill of catching the perfect wave andC how she’s sharing her love of the sport with others IntervIew Gabrielle Jaffe PhotograPh Jade Berry

y dad got me into surfing when I was 10. I grew up I used to do competitions but I prefer surfing with in Wadebridge, 20 minutes from Polzeath Beach. people, not against them. I’m a qualified instructor and MWe’d go backwards and forwards to the sea like a yo-yo. I coach in the summer. The most rewarding lessons I’ve Now that I live in Newquay and I’m at the Surf Academy given have been with the Wave Project, a charity that at Treviglas, I’m in the water most days. Newquay is the teaches kids with disabilities to surf. They just love it. Even perfect place for a surfer. There are so many beaches to if they can’t stand up, they’re so happy to be in the sea. choose from and you see people in the streets and at cafés In winter, there are fewer crowds and there’s more with their wetsuits on – it’s such a big part of town life. room in the water. The cold can put you off. But you just When you’re out on the water, you leave everything on put on your wetsuit, hood, boots and once you’re out land behind. All you think about is getting that perfect there, you know it’s worth it – especially in the evening, wave. Once you’re up on your board and the salt’s when the sun’s setting; the colours in the sky, the glassy spraying, you just don’t want to stop. You keep saying waves – it’s amazing to feel part of that. ‘just one more wave’, then go back again and again. For more about Lucie, visit lucierosedonlan.com.

coastmagazine.co.uk 15 coast

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE • HOT HOTEL The Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate

WHAT’S THE BUZZ? fantastic views of the You’d be hard pushed to ocean from the outdoor nd a hotel and spa with pool, Jacuzzi and steam a more stunning view than room. There’s a champagne this. Overlooking the sandy bar inside the spa with large Blue Flag beach, it’s an comfy sofas to relax on. idyllic setting for a weekend BEST SEA VIEW? away. We even saw seals The deluxe rooms have frolicking in the waves. balconies and panoramic WHAT ARE THE ROOMS sea views. LIKE? The décor mixes HOW’S THE FOOD? modern with traditional. You can eat at the hotel Sweeping tiled bathrooms restaurant but we loved are combined with feature the Beach Club best, wallpaper and chandeliers. which sits on the sand, a Touches of colour are added few metres from the hotel. WHAT WILL IT COST? HOW TO GET THERE with oral prints and We tried the Pan-Scorched Rooms start from £100 Carbis Bay has a train stripes. All of the 47 rooms Scallops with Pomegranate, per person, per night. station, managed by in the hotel are unique Lobster and Prawn Add just £20 to include Great Western Railway. and individually designed. Linguine and nished with dinner at the Sands It takes about six hours LUXURIOUS TOUCHES? a Broken Singapore Sling Restaurant. To book call from Paddington station, The hotel has an extensive served with a Gin and 01736 795311 or visit changing at St Erth. spa and pool area, with Chambord Cocktail. carbisbayhotel.co.uk. Alex Fisher

FLASH, BANG, WALLOP! What a picture: this month’s reader snap

SAILING SUCCESS Sailors Phil Sharp and Alex Alley (supported by marine clothing brand Henri Lloyd), plus adventurer Sean Conway have completed the Length of Britain Challenge. The tough sail from Land’s End 1961 to John O’Groats took the trio three days, 11 hours, 52 minutes ~ ~ RODDY SCOTT PHOTOGRAPHY and 15 seconds. Sharp’s next challenge will be to hop aboard a Reader Pauline Ward (centre) sent us this snap zero-emissions vessel, and attempt the Vendée Globe, which is of herself on the beach at Rhyl in North Wales. ‘That the only non-stop, single-handed race around the planet. We wish was over 50 years ago and I can still remember the

PHOTOGRAPH him the best of luck (philsharpracing.com; henrilloyd.com). excitement of our donkey ride,’ she says.

16 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk coast COMPETITION WIN A THREE-NIGHT CORNISH GETAWAY We’ve teamed up with Richardson Hotels to offer one lucky winner and a guest a luxury break in Cornwall, including afternoon tea and tickets to the Eden Project

he Richardson Hotel Group is a a bottle of Prosecco, homemade fudge, HOW TO ENTER collection of five individual hotels, plus two tickets to the Eden Project. Go to coastmagazine.co.uk T situated in stunning locations on and answer the following question the south Devon and cornwall coasts. READER OFFER by 26 February 2016: all offer period architecture, breathtaking Readers can save around 15 per cent on views and award-winning dining. a two-night break at the Metropole or How many hotels are there in our winner and a guest will enjoy a Fowey Hotel from 1 april to 30 June 2016 The Richardson Hotel Group? three-night stay at the Metropole or paying £345.** this includes afternoon A) Three B) Four C) Five D) Six Fowey Hotel in an Executive sea View tea, a sea View room, a cornish room. this includes breakfast, dinner breakfast and a bottle of Prosecco. call each evening in the hotel’s aa rosette 0800 005 2244 or email reservations@ restaurant, a champagne afternoon tea, richardsonhotels.co.uk quoting coast1.

TERMS AND CONDITIONS *offer (based on two sharing a standard double/twin room and saving approximately 15%), valid from 1 april 2016 until 30th June 2016, subject to availability of allocated rooms and new bookings only. supplements apply for upgrades. Excludes Festival of Words and Music Week. Prize valid for six months from when winner is announced, excluding Bank Holidays and festivals and subject to availability. Entries close at midnight on 26 February 2016 and the winner will be drawn 29 February 2016. the winner will be notified within 28 days of the close of entries. the draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Entry is free. open to residents of the UK aged over 18. Employees of Kelsey Media and their family members are not eligible to win. only one entry permitted per person, no bulk entries will be accepted. the first correct entry drawn after the closing date will win. there is no cash alternative and the prize is not transferable. If any prize or product is lost or damaged during the course of delivery to the recipient, Kelsey Media will provide reasonable assistance in seeking to resolve the problem. However, it will not always be possible to obtain replacements for lost or damaged goods, and in that event, no financial compensation would be payable by Kelsey Media or their affiliates. We reserve the right to cancel the competition, if circumstances change that are beyond our control. By entering you agree to be bound by all the rules and agree that your surname and county may be released if you win. By providing personally identifiable information when entering this competition, you are agreeing that we may use it to provide you with on-going information about our products and services, although you can unsubscribe at any time, if you wish to do so. coast is a Kelsey Media brand. Kelsey Media will only ever use your information in line with its Multi Layered Privacy Notice. For full details, visit kelsey.co.uk. If you have any questions please ask as submitting your data indicates your consent, until you choose otherwise, that we may contact you about products and services that we believe to be of relevance to you.

coastmagazine.co.uk 17 coast ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Cornish gems provide holiday aCCommodation with the ‘wow’ faCtor

The Coffee Lounge ST IveS ApArTmenTS CornISh CrIbS bouTIque for Two cornish Gems st Ives office complement your time in st Ives cornish Gems exclusive cornish Love, laughter and lazy days set the and coffee Lounge has become with a chic apartment. Wander cribs portfolio showcases a small scene for an ideal escape in cornwall an invaluable one-stop shop from holiday door to sandy shore in collection of private houses with an created for two. cornish Gems offer to meet the team, discuss moments. take advantage of private emphasis on size, superior standards a tempting selection of one-bedroom booking/letting a property whilst parking, sea-facing balconies and and attention to detail. Expect to luxury homes and invite couples to enjoying a barista-served coffee luxury interiors. cornish Gems offer find hot tubs, home-cinema rooms, reconnect and unwind with a healthy and freshly prepared lunch. over 25 apartments to rent in st Ives. swimming pools and tennis courts. dose of vitamin sea and cornish zen.

18 coast coastmagazine.co.uk IN ASSOCIATION WITH COrNISH gemS

Spotlight on... Cornish Gems Holiday letting specialists Cornish Gems are the ‘go-to’ for those looking for a luxury holiday home, cottage or apartment to rent in Cornwall

ornish Gems offer an LEFt From the Isles is set to impress. Miles of extensive portfolio of over balcony of golden sand beaches flank the Salubrious C 170 much-loved, luxury House in St Ives, rugged coastline and stunning hand-picked holiday homes, guests can seascapes of the North, whilst enjoy unrivalled cottages and apartments. choose views of the the picture-perfect coves and from coastal clifftop retreats, harbour and quintessential fishing villages of charming fishermen’s cottages, beaches BELoW the south coast bring a welcome Picturesque chic penthouse apartments, St Ives boasts contrast, just waiting to be boutique boltholes made just for stunning sands, explored. cornwall is also highly top-class food two or majestic houses where and a vibrant acclaimed for its cuisine, attracting extended families can rest and art scene food aficionados all year round. play. cornish Gems properties are well equipped with all the stay in st ives holiday essentials you could over half of cornish Gems luxury possibly need and are presented properties to rent are located in to an exceptional standard. swap the st Ives area, the perfect setting your urban heels for summer for your seaside schedule. this sandals. Your holiday starts here! cosmopolitan harbour town is If you have yet to visit cornwall often referred to as ‘the jewel in or you are a seasoned traveller, the cornish crown’ where white- this wonderful corner of the British washed cottages and Victorian townhouses set the backdrop to the busy fishing harbour. a mecca for budding artists, discover the inspiring community of galleries and cool art cafés or simply enjoy the individuality of its array of boutique shops. st Ives offers a range of places to dine from the very best pub-grub, fish and chips on the quay to a more fine-dining experience on the beach. old-fashioned bucket-and- spade beach days are a must – with up to five beautiful white sand beaches to choose from. Cornish Gems (0844 800 2813 or 01872 241 241; cornishgems.com

WrIttEN BY jen morgan or [email protected]).

coastmagazine.co.uk 19 coast Go Mo re nt y Or Ha gu rb ei our l Ca – st Je le rs , ey

TH 25th March – 10 MAY 2016

Peel back the layers of the Channel Islands’ past during the Heritage Festival – a celebration of a group of small Islands with a big history, this year honouring our timeless relationship with the sea. From our Ice Age past to Roman wrecks, famous seafarers to privateering, shipbuilding to great shipwrecks; explore museums and lighthouses, take guided walking, cycling and bus tours and much more.

PICKUPYOURFESTIVALGUIDEORFINDOUTMOREAT: VISITCHANNELISLANDS.COM

@VISITGUERNSEY FACEBOOK.COM/VISITGUERNSEY @VisitJerseyCI FACEBOOK.COM/VisitJersey coast COLUMN MARINE coast columnist Pluncovers the fascinating folk history and curious biology of an unusual marine

Maya’s passion for the creature, the goose barnacle ILLUSTRATION Tom Jay nation’s coastline was born out of a childhood alking along a windy Devon beach with barnacle goose was actually born from spent by the sea, where a friend, I was saying how disappointed this crustacean, which looks a little like an her fascination with I was that I hadn’t come across any egg on a stalk. As a result, this bird was rockpooling evolved into Wgoose barnacles of late. As I said not considered as meat and was allowed a career as a marine this I was, as usual, scouting the strandline to be eaten on Friday, when the church ecologist and author. She for treasures. Then, all of a sudden, I caught normally banned the eating of meat. has made her home on sight of a small, well-travelled plastic bottle The neck of the marine goose barnacle the Devon coastline with with goose barnacles fi rmly attached. is fi rmly attached to the piece of fl otsam or her family, where she jetsam, while its ‘head’ is made up of white, spends her days diving, A MYSTERIOUS ANIMAL shell-like plates with an egg-yolk orange kayaking and educating This goose barnacle (Lepas anatifera) has a edge. They have curled feet which, when school children on the long, smooth, curved dark neck just like the live, thrust rhythmically out from between the wonders of the sea. barnacle geese that can be seen across from shell plates and capture food from the water. the shore on neighbouring wetlands. This is These curled feet look like hairy spider legs really where the similarities end between these and are very effective in catching their prey! neighbouring feathered and marine creatures. The goose TIDAL TREASURES ‘When we fi nd things WASHED barnacle is, in fact, If you do fi nd some fresh, storm-blown ASHORE, a crustacean and fl otsam with a goose barnacle attached, try it’s worth spending related to the crabs dipping it in a rockpool and see if the curled some time EXPLORING and lobsters in feet come out to feed. When we fi nd things our seas. However, washed ashore, it’s worth spending some time ALL THE DETAIL of these there was a time exploring all the detail of these unexpected when we thought and occasional visitors. You never know when UNEXPECTED VISITORS’ that the feathered you might get a chance to see them again!

coastmagazine.co.uk 21 COAST

coast HOMES LET THERE

the transformation of a run-down arts club into a boutique guesthouse in Penzance has been a life-changing project for city émigrée susan stuart words Lesley Gillilan photographs Paul Ryan-Goff

From the Chapel House garden you can see Mount’s Bay and the harbour

coastmagazine.co.uk 23 coast coast HOMES

uring the first few weeks of owning who no doubt peeked at his fleet from the chapel House, susan stuart spent windows). From 1993, it was run as the ‘hours and hours’ just wandering from Penzance arts club, a once-venerable Droom to room, gazing at the sea and institution, with a gallery, bar and guest rooms, the changing light. ‘I think it’s really important before it gradually declined and finally closed. to get the measure of a place,’ she says, susan spotted the club when it first appeared ‘so that you can see how it feels, where on the market in 2007. the guide price was the light comes in and where the views are.’ £1.2 million but she kept an eye on it; and From the upper floors of her handsome over several years she watched the price aBoVE Susan walks on Georgian home, she found herself gazing slowly come down. an email saying the the beach at Marazion near Penzance. At across the slate and granite townscape of old vendor was now seeking offers over £500,000 low tide, you can walk Penzance, at boats bobbing in the harbour; saw her scurrying down to cornwall. across to St Michael’s the mesmerising sweep of Mount’s Bay and, in the building she stepped into was clad Mount oPPosItE, toP Sunlight pours through the distance, the island-castle of st Michael’s in brown pebbledash; inside, most of the sash windows in the Mount with the hazy outline of the Lizard walls were painted oxblood red – including drawing room. The Peninsula beyond. From side windows, she the ceilings; there was a catering kitchen sofa, ottoman and rug were bought in local peered at fellow Georgian houses on historic in the basement and the top floor was a furniture shop East of chapel street, and the granite tower of st warren of corridors and gloomy rooms. Later, Here. The big arc lamp, Mary’s church next door. as she discovered, she would discover that the central chimney a vintage nautical signal light, was picked up in most of the rooms are often drenched in was a whisker away from a catastrophic St Ives oPPosItE, LEFt sunlight – the kind of pure, invigorating light collapse. ‘It was quite depressing,’ says The beautiful door in that has attracted artists to this far-west corner susan. ‘But what I saw, beyond the dark the hallway is one of Chapel House’s restored of cornwall for more than a century. after paint, was a glorious Georgian house. Nobody original features years of living in London – and yearning to had looked after it for years – and that really oPPosItE, RIGHt Susan live by the sea – susan was in heaven, but appealed to my maternal instincts.’ heads to Stevenson, a harbour-side fishmonger for all its charms, buying this Grade II-listed Within seconds, she had made her decision. in Newlyn. ‘I like to go landmark building was a huge leap of faith. ‘I wanted it so badly, I thought, I’ll buy it now, every day so it’s utterly the house she fell in love with was built in and then I’ll think about how I’m going to fresh,’ she says. Brill, scallops and crab are 1790 as a family home (early owners include make a living later – it was a completely her favourite buys the Royal Navy’s admiral samuel Hood Linzee, upside down way of doing things.’

24 coast coastmagazine.co.uk coastmagazine.co.uk 25 coast coast HOMES

OPERATION RESCUE with real vision. ‘she literally rescued the aBoVE Apart from the a chartered accountant, susan had spent place from dereliction,’ he says. ‘the building original granite floor, the basement had no more than 35 years in London. she’d already desperately needed help, and the whole architectural features made a sideways career move by giving up the project has been as much about regeneration worth saving, leaving city for a job as chief executive of the charity, as it has about creating a boutique hotel.’ Susan a blank canvas and an opportunity thrive. But in 2012 she was ready for a lifestyle While a team of builders tackled the to introduce a more change, and in the sale of Penzance arts club, crumbling structure, the two of them hatched contemporary look. The she saw the perfect opportunity. a plan for the interior space. ‘It was all about table was custom-made by local furniture-maker ‘the more I looked at the house, the more the light, the changing colours of the sea Ben Williams. Susan I could see how it could work,’ she says. and bringing the outside in,’ says susan. imported the chairs from she envisaged a boutique guesthouse – on the ground and first floors, the priority her old home in London, but had them recovered more upmarket than a B&B, but not as formal was to restore the building’s beautiful by a local upholsterer. as a hotel. ‘I wanted my guests to feel as architectural features. and susan was very A choice of help-yourself, though they were staying with a friend who much part of the team. she spent months homemade cake lies on top of the sideboard happened to live in a lovely house. and the stripping paint off sash windows, shutters, – a midcentury original house would still be my home.’ she was architraves and the stunning hall door with by Danish designer Ib brimming with ideas, but from the outset, its ornate glazed fanlight. ‘We called her the Kofod-Larsen, which she bought in the Daisy she knew she couldn’t do it alone. chapel street stripper,’ laughs Keith. For Laing Vintage Studio Happily, local architect Keith Bell jumped weeks, she mounted a scaffolding tower, in Chapel Street at the chance to work on one of the town’s stripping cornices on the stairwell. RIGHt Midcentury modern meets Georgian most loved buildings. ‘It’s been central to Upstairs and downstairs, there were few architecture in a a lot of people’s histories in Penzance,’ he features worth saving, so they were able to room with a view explains, adding that he announced his own take a more interventional, contemporary on the top floor marriage at a party in the old arts club bar. approach. In the basement, they enlarged the ‘this was a project very close to my heart.’ windows – set into a deep granite wall nearly susan describes Keith as ethical and a metre thick – and created a light, open-plan intuitive; Keith describes susan as a client kitchen-diner with room for guests to

26 coast coastmagazine.co.uk coast HOMES

‘IT’s GREAT To sEE people ENJoYING THE HoUsE AND VIEWs and LoVING PENZANCE as mUCH as I Do’ coast HOMES

Susan uses foraged wild apples to make her jam. Cooking is a passion and she pushed the boat out to have this custom-made kitchen by Penzance craftsman George Robinson

28 coast coastmagazine.co.uk coast HOMES

aBoVE Decorated in calming white and eat breakfast or enjoy one of susan’s delicious pale greys, spacious homemade suppers. on the top floor, they Bedroom Two has removed the low ceilings and opened up the double-aspect sea views, a handmade oak roof space. a defining feature of the building’s bed by Ben Williams, a transformation is a long, angular glass roof modern wood-burner dormer, which extends from a lounging space in a Georgian fireplace, and an egg-shaped on the top landing and into one of the guest Ashton & Bentley bath, bathrooms, flooding both with natural light. which is set on a plinth ‘It’s the best place in the house to catch the of slate specially made to protect the painted sunset,’ says susan. floorboards from the wet RIGHt Watery views are framed by the THE ART OF LIVING magnificent arched Funded by the sale of susan’s London house, window on the stairwell and most of her savings, the regenerated chapel House has been open to guests since May 2015. the arts club’s boho bar is now an uncluttered white space, simply furnished with well-chosen pieces that allow the beauty of the original features to speak for themselves. ‘Georgian architecture goes really well with simple modern furniture as well as furniture of its own time,’ says susan. ‘and I already had a fair bit of both from my house in London.’ In the six stylish bedrooms on the two upper floors, susan’s seemingly effortless style skilfully mixes the old, the new and the vintage. the predominantly white and soft-grey décor is livened up with fabrics and

coastmagazine.co.uk 29 coast coast HOMES SUSAN’S PENZANCE FAVOURITES Secret swimming The Penzance Lido Coastal walks ‘I love the hidden cove Susan is involved with She particularly likes at Porth Nanven, tucked the Friends of Jubilee the path from Zennor down the Cot Valley near Pool, and has used her to Cape Cornwall, a Land’s End. The beach charity experience to help dramatic stretch of rocky is all boulder-size pebbles, raise funds to repair the coastline, where the wild but past half tide, there’s damage caused by the prehistoric landscapes a little stretch of sand, winter storms in 2014. of Penwith Moor meet weird-shaped rocks The iconic seawater the ruined engine houses and a lagoon which is pool, will re-open in 2016 of the Cornish Mining perfect for swimming.’ (jubileepool.co.uk). World Heritage site.

Bedroom One has a restored original fireplace. The painting by colourist Robert Kelsey echoes the colours of the seaside landscape seen from the windows

30 coast coastmagazine.co.uk coast HOMES

aBoVE The striking glass roof dormer gives a modern edge to the top floor LEFt From up here, you get the best views of St Mary’s Church – and the sunset accessories in ‘sea colours’ – including bright upholstery, rugs and works of art. In keeping with the heritage of the building, susan has devoted the walls of the hall and drawing room to an exhibition of paintings curated by the Newlyn school of art and these are offered for sale (susan donates her commission back to the school to help fund its courses). she is passionate about supporting cornish suppliers and local enterprise. ‘I love cooking with local ingredients,’ she says. ‘the butcher is full of local meat and you can walk to Newlyn and buy fresh fish straight off the boats. I’m in culinary heaven.’ the kitchen is susan’s domain, as is her live-work space in the basement, but in the rest of the house, she takes a backseat – ‘a happy compromise’, she says. ‘I don’t mind sharing my space with guests. It’s great to see people enjoying the house and the views and loving Penzance as much as I do.’ For more, visit chapelhousepz.co.uk.

coastmagazine.co.uk 31 coast Thinkshutters areexpensive? thinkagain.

NTER GREATBRITISHSOFAS WI LE % * SA OFF or osven Gr sofa eater 3 s NLY OW O uary N 59 th Febr £6 y14 cedb 25spla rder *Ono 0845 8940700 . No risk 21 daymoneyback home trial www.justshutters.co.uk . 5year hardwoodframe guarantee forour inspirationalbrochure For afree colour brochurecall 01495 244226 or visit www.sofasofa.co.uk coast XXXXXX

retro seat Introduce quirky designs like this Klein dining chair, £219 for two, claire Gaudion at swoon Editions

Bold move Look out for upholstery in bright shades. 1958 armchair, £585; Luxe round side table, £195; Luxe console table, £350, all oliver Bonas GeT The Take a dip classic look this Kyoto freestanding bath is an With statement furniture, stylish elegant choice, £2,350, Fired Earth accessories and hints of colour

Blue mood tonal blues and greys create a restful scene, all £37 for 2.5ltrs absolute matt emulsion, Little Greene

Colour Fine furniture splash choose classic accents of bright pieces like this orange will liven Georgian chest Light up up your space. Pick distinctive of drawers, £645, Petal side table, lighting, such as the old cinema £147, curvalinea this striking Focus at clippings spotlight, £1,327, comPILEd By Emma Clayton sweetpea & Willow

coastmagazine.co.uk 33 coast

blue is the colour With spring around the corner, be bold and make a statement with on-trend indigos and cobalt finds

compiled by Emma Clayton

Feature wall For a dazzling decorating effect try little Greene’s special-edition Ultra blue paint, £49 for 2.5ltrs coast HOMES

Tick tock this crooked wall clock is a truly unique timepiece, by Progetti, £260, amara

Patterned piece choose stylish pieces for outdoor lounging like this casamance torre scatter cushion, £150, Indian ocean Lively look Make an impact with fabric designs like Liberty’s Porthmeor Beach in atlantic ocean, £115 per m Quirky twist Look out for unusual pieces such as this Bowled over Distortion this hand-blown candlestick in glass bowl in blue, £25, Rume ocean Blue makes a lovely centrepiece, £81, English antique Glass

Modern materials Ideal for bedside storage, this blue wood and metal cabinet is £360, Holly’s House cool comfort create a contemporary look with this café sofa in Paintbox Blues, from £1169, sofas & stuff

coastmagazine.co.uk 37 coast Fresh idea Give your bedroom a makeover with this Moroccan Blue range by Sainsbury’s. Embroidered bed linen, £25 for a double set; knit throw, £35; printed stripe cushion, £12; printed tassel cushion, £12; embroidered navy cushion, £14; white lantern, £22 coast HOMES

Splash out For a touch of fun get Luxe lounge your hands on this quirky Put your feet up and relax cushion, £12.99, with this sumptuous Homesense Jasper pouffe in Persia Blue, £99, Swoon Editions

full marks well spotted Add a dash of pattern to Teatime will be a treat your dining table with with this spotty jug, Habitat’s Blot ceramics. £30, Habitat This platter is £32

Sweet detail For decorative detail, this pretty Cyanotype tealight candleholder is ideal, £15.50, Decorator’s Notebook Dip in Distinctive ceramics are great for putting on display. Blue ombre vase, £14.99, Homesense

Indigo mix Soft touch This Alpine high-back chair in This Seaside Blue zigzag Harlequin Amoura Ink/Indigo throw will add interest to fabric makes a bold statement, neutral interiors, £58, The £1,109, Multiyork British Blanket Company

coastmagazine.co.uk 39 COAST coast PEOPLE

here are more than 100 islands around the UK, and one of the greatest challenges for these communities is how to make a living all year round. Despite the T additional cost of ferry transfers and transport, this didn’t deter Liz Earle (pictured above) and Kim Buckland from setting up their business on the Isle of Wight. ‘As the daughter of an admiral,’ Liz explains, ‘I’d always lived by the sea. Although we moved a number of times, the view of the ocean was a constant for me. Kim already lived on the Isle of Wight, and its scenic beauty made it an inspirational setting for a skincare business.’ When the pair started out, their plan was to create a beauty range that would be suitable for delicate and eczema-prone skin, and what they discovered was that botanical ingredients offered better results than their synthetic equivalents. ‘We often underestimate the power of nature,’ says Liz. ‘Our skin’s own natural sebum is highly compatible with natural plant oils. Botanicals tend to be more easily assimilated. There isn’t the same relationship with man-made ingredients.’ They didn’t think so much about the future of the brand. ‘We just worked day by day. We started out with an idea we believed in, and followed wherever that took us. We wanted to make products that

40 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk coast PEOPLE AN ISLAND HOME Sustaining a business on an island is never easy. So when friends Liz Earle and Kim Buckland launched their company on the Isle of Wight in 1995 they never expected it to grow into one of Britain’s most-loved beauty brands words Alex Fisher coast PEOPLE

were as rigorously tested as any talk to. The company still wins awards conventional synthetic-based brand. for customer service and I think this Our products had to really work if is partly because so many of our they were going to compete in the employees enjoy the relaxed pace crowded beauty market.’ of life the island offers. Being by the sea always makes you feel calmer AN INSPIRATIONAL PALETTE and revitalised. It’s really good for Much of the look and feel of the wellbeing in general.’ packaging was inspired by the colours of the Isle of Wight. ‘The blue tones ECO PRINCIPLES IN ACTION came from the sea and the sky, the Today, the brand’s leading product, lilac is the exact colour of the sunset Cleanse and Polish, has won over over Cowes in summer, and the colour 100 awards and the company employs of the men’s products comes directly more than 300 islanders, making it from the wet sand shade on the island. one of the largest employers on the The infl uence of the Isle of Wight can Isle of Wight. They have also built their be seen in every element of the brand.’ own eco-building on the island, housing As the company rapidly grew, extra signifi cant elements of the business, hovercraft trips to the mainland had to from packaging to product development. be arranged to deliver their packages. The Green House, as the award-winning ‘Initially, our reputation spread by word building is called, was designed to of mouth. Our products worked and follow the ethical and environmental people shared this with their friends. principles the company was founded People also liked the fact they could on. Here, rainwater is gathered for call up and speak to a real person, fl ushing toilets, a ground source pump and the fact that those people lived – which consists of a network of water on the Isle of Wight meant that they pipes running a few feet beneath the and they have a formidable composter were some of the most friendly and lawn where it gathers natural heat called ‘the rocket’ which turns food relaxed people they could hope to from the earth – powers the radiators, waste from the canteen into compost for the garden. Geoff Day, the company’s Environmental Advisor who is based ‘YOU CAN’T TALK about a LIFESTYLE unless you at The Green House says, ‘We look into every way we can recycle or reuse LIVE IT, and WE DO. Even the LIZ EARLE Beauty materials. You have to be creative to Co. EMPLOYEES who are based in LONDON spend fi nd the best solution. At the moment at least a week TRAINING on the ISLE OF WIGHT’ we are shredding cardboard to make bedding for a local donkey sanctuary, and only after that does it get composted. You can’t talk about a lifestyle unless you are trying to live it, and we do. Even the Liz Earle Beauty Co. employees who are based in London spend at least a week training on the Isle of Wight, and it is here that we introduce them to the core principles of the brand, which is all about sustainability and treading lightly.’

SOURCING RESPONSIBLY One of the company’s employees who has got to know the Isle of Wight through his job is botanist, author and TV presenter James Wong (pictured left). Although still based in London, James

42 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk coast PEOPLE

Liz EarLE’s TOP 5 ExPEriEncEs On THE iOW…

bEacH bEauTy Springvale Beach stretches from Puckpool to Seaview on the north coast and is a mixture of shingle and sand. The beach has amazing views across the Solent on a clear day, making it a perfect place to watch the sailing boats go by and enjoy a peaceful walk.

LivE music There are plenty of wonderful events that celebrate island life. The Isle of Wight Music Festival takes place in June and has grown over the years, now attracting tens of thousands of people from all over the world.

GLOriOus fOOd Overlooking the spectacular spends around a week a month on the in the UK. It’s amazing.’ Forelands Beach, The Beach island as Liz Earle’s ethno botanist. Although still the ambassador Hut Café at Bembridge is a ‘My job is to ensure the responsible of the brand, Liz Earle herself is no rustic seafood eatery, with local seafood and produce on the menu. sourcing of the plants and botanicals longer an owner and over the last used in the products. I don’t just look few years she has branched out, HEavEnLy GardEns at the ingredients, I meet the people launching Liz Earle Wellbeing, a I love Ventnor Botanic Gardens. who can supply them and the impact quarterly healthy lifestyle magazine. They have a remarkable this has on their communities. Just the She also shares her ideas and collection of exotic and rare fact that Liz Earle employs an ethno recipes as a presenter back on plants. The gardens are laid out botanist is testament to their genuine This Morning, a TV show she started geographically based on the commitment to ethical principles. You her television career on 27 years ago. Mediterranean zones of the world. won’t find many other beauty companies Some fans of the brand were who employ someone to do this job. concerned when the company amazinG sunsETs ‘I love coming to the Isle of Wight. was purchased in 2015, but Liz Tennyson Down is a beautiful open downland with sheer chalk As soon as I sit on the top deck of and James both say the new owners cliffs and dramatic sea views. the ferry I begin to decompress; it’s are loyal to the natural and ethical The light and weather conditions another world when you cross the principles the company was founded are different on every visit. It is water. We have a beautiful conference on. ‘They have committed to its island perfect for a sunset walk. centre overlooking the sea, and the home,’ says Liz, ‘and there is a real islanders are naturally chilled out. opportunity for international expansion In London when people are nice to now, which means flying the flag for you it’s often because they want the Isle of Wight all around the world.’ something. On the Isle of Wight they Turn over the page to receive a free are just nice. One of my favourite Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish Kit places is the Botanical Gardens in when you subscribe to coast. For more Ventnor. The unique micro-climate information on Liz Earle Beauty Co., of this area means there are plants go to lizearle.com. For details on Liz’s here that you will see nowhere else magazine, see lizearlewellbeing.com.

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Dolphin Street, Deal Charming, well presented period cottage located in the conservation area between the town’s award winning High Street & beach. Sitting room, kitchen/diner, 2 double bedrooms, occasional bedroom/dressing room, bathroom. Courtyard garden. Guide Price £335,000

Oyster Cottage, Walmer AdA delightfulelightful foformrmerer fifisherman’ssherman’s cottagecottage locatedlocated justjust yayardrdsfs froromtm thehe beabeachch atat WaWalmelmer.r. IdealIdeal weweekendekend reretreattreat ofof pepermrmanentanent home,home, tatastefullstefullypy preresentedsented ththroroughout.ughout. SittingSitting roroom,om, kitchen/diner,kitchen/diner, 2d2 doubleouble bedrooms,bedrooms, bathroom.bathroom. EnclosedEnclosed garden.garden. GuideGuide PricePrice £265,000£265,000

For further informationplease contact: Bright &Bright, 29 Victoria Road, Deal, Kent CT14 7AS and at The Drawing Room: 71 Middle Street, Deal, Kent CT14 6HN t: 01304 374071 .e:[email protected] . www.brightandbright.co.uk

BRIGHT Amember of nTheMarket.com &Bright

COASTALPROPERTIES

Visit our huge contemporary living showroom in Hayle, Cornwall TR27 5JR

www.iroka.com Designing your coastalholiday retreat since2006 01736 757 333 coast HOMES

HOMES to buy BESIDE the SEA... 20From a thatched farmhouse and coastal tower to a harbourside penthouse and former vicarage, here’s our selection of the latest

properties for sale along our shores COMPILED BY Alice Westgate

PROPERTY of the MONTH ALDEBURGH, SUFFOLK £1,200,000 The Old Mill House is an iconic building that was built in 1824 and was converted into a four-bedroom house in 1902. See 1 overleaf… 2 5

6 8

7 9

aLDEBURGH, sUFFoLK cottage dates from the early 7 This and two reception rooms. 1£1,200,000 19th century and has four waterfront Bradleys (01503 264888, Previous page: the circular bedrooms. Bright & Bright (01304 bradleys-estate-agents.co.uk). central tower has amazing views 374071, brightandbright.co.uk). property in from its top-floorbalcony; there Devon has st LaWRENcE, IsLE is also a former gun tower in PoRtHLEVEN, coRNWaLL its own 6 oF WIGHt £1,100,000 need of renovation. Savills 4 £750,000 Parklands is a smart detached (01473 234800, savills.co.uk). Perched above the harbour mooring home on the island’s south entrance, and with southerly coast. It occupies a quiet setting aBERaERoN, cEREDIGIoN views over the water, Bayt al and has four bedrooms, a 2 £750,000 Godi is a double-fronted former Victorian walled garden and great Dolaeron is a five-bedroom vicarage with four bedrooms and sea views. Biles & Co (01983 Grade II-listed home in this lovely a full-width terrace at the front. 872335, bilesandco.co.uk). harbour town. a separate coach Lillicrap Chilcott (01872 273473, house includes a workshop waterfrontandcountryhomes.com). DaRtMoUtH, DEVoN and three first-floor rooms. 7£1,100,000 Strutt & Parker (01584 873711, WEst LooE, coRNWaLL Gullsway Boathouse is a struttandparker.com). 5 £199,950 detached waterfront property From wooden beams to a cosy close to the centre of town. It WaLMER, KENt £675,000 wood-burning stove, there’s a is divided into two apartments, 3 With a fantastic seafront lot of traditional cornish character each of which has two location and views over the at Islander, a two-bedroom bedrooms and a running channel, timber-built Downs cottage with two bathrooms mooring, plus great holiday

48 coast coastmagazine.co.uk 11

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letting potential. Country & a two-bedroom cottage that’s BEMBRIDGE, IsLE Waterside (01803 832223, a perfect holiday let. Savills Sell your 12 oF WIGHt £450,000 home countryandwaterside.co.uk). (0141 222 5875, savills.co.uk). the old Post office has ThrouGh recently been renovated to PLYMoUtH, DEVoN LIttLEHaMPtoN, coast create a detached house with 8 £395,000 10 WEst sUssEX £479,950 If you have four bedrooms and a courtyard No 32 Pinnacle Quay sits in the No 2 Britannia Quay is part of a coastal home garden. Wright Estate Agency heart of sutton Harbour, giving a townhouse development on to sell and would (01983 611511, wright-iw.co.uk). like it to appear easy access to the Barbican the River arun. It has three/four on these pages, and the Hoe. It has two bedrooms bedrooms and its own mooring. email madeleine. BoGNoR REGIs, WEst and a private balcony that Henry Adams (01243 587687, barber@kelsey. 13 sUssEX £160,000 makes the most of the views. henryadams.co.uk). co.uk for more a stone’s throw from the water, Lang Town & Country (01752 details. cost No 3 sussex court is a spacious is £50 for 200909, langtownandcountry.com). LooE, coRNWaLL apartment with one double subscribers, 11£750,000 £100 for bedroom. the rooms have high DaLBEattIE, DUMFRIEs From its elevated position, non-subscribers. ceilings and bay windows looking 9 & GaLLoWaY £675,000 Havenford House has great We work three out to sea. Henry Adams (01243 craigbittern is a refurbished views of the town and harbour. months in 842123, henryadams.co.uk). advance. Victorian country house that sits It was built in the 1850s and has Properties are above a beautiful bay on the five bedrooms, four bathrooms, chosen at RYE, East sUssEX solway coastline. It has five a large conservatory and four the editor’s 14 £225,000 double bedrooms and four acres of land. Chartsedge (01392 discretion. a brilliant bolthole, No 4 tower reception rooms; there is also 832446, chartsedge.co.uk). street is a stylish Georgian

coastmagazine.co.uk 49 coast coast HOMES

15 17

coast reader’s 19 home

18 20

cottage with two bedrooms, 15 This Parker (01227 451123, aLDWIcK, WEst sUssEX a courtyard garden and a former struttandparker.com). 19 £590,000 studio. Phillips & Stubbs (01797 No 1 the Moorings is a 227338, phillipsandstubbs.co.uk). farmhouse NEWQUaY, coRNWaLL four-bedroom apartment on the sits in 17 £700,000 seafront, with fabulous views sIDMoUtH, DEVoN rolling this penthouse makes up from all the main rooms. It has 15 £1,250,000 half of the top floor and has a private sun terrace, and the combe Wood House is a listed hills with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, master bedroom has its own farmhouse in a secluded setting. panoramic a vast living space and balcony. Henry Adams (01243 It has three bedrooms, three sea vistas wraparound terraces. Lillicrap 842123, henryadams.co.uk). reception rooms and sweeping Chilcott (01872 273473, sea views. It comes with 1.3 acres waterfrontandcountryhomes.com). tYNEMoUtH, tYNE of gardens and is 700 yards from 20 & WEaR £675,000 salcombe Mouth beach. Savills sEaVIEW, IsLE oF WIGHt Historic Dolphin House is in the (01392 455700, savills.co.uk). 18 £375,000 heart of tynemouth village and this beautiful Victorian home is has lovely views to the coast. FoLKEstoNE, KENt five minutes from the seaside and once owned by William Pitt the 16 £425,000 village, and has been a family home Younger, it has an open-plan Ullyett cottage is part of a for 40 years. there are four/five kitchen/dining space and three converted Victorian school and bedrooms, two bathrooms and bedrooms. Sanderson Young (0191 incorporates the old school tower. a large kitchen/diner. Seafields 213 0033, sandersonyoung.co.uk). It has two bedrooms, plus a Estate Agents (01983 812266, For coastal house features, terrace and a garden. Strutt & seafieldsproperty.co.uk). see coastmagazine.co.uk

50 coast coastmagazine.co.uk Greatstone, Kent -£465,000 Camber,EastSussex-£350,000 Astunning detached property on ano-through road in this sought after Adetached single storey coastal property affording stylish, open coastal town. Generous accommodation includes living room, dining hall, plan living accommodation hidden behind the sand dunes at the family room, kitchen/breakfast room, study,utility room and 5bedrooms. end of aprivate sandy road. Spacious living room with wood burner, Alarge rear garden provides an enclosed hot tub, summer house and ﬁtted kitchen &dining room, three large double bedrooms &bath/ heated swimming pool. Single garage and offroad parking. EPC D. shower room. Sun deck and garden. Parking.

Rye, East Sussex -£550,000 Rye, East Sussex -£235,000 Awell appointed moderndetached house within asmall gated Alovely refurbished midterracedthree bedroom Victorian house private development close to the town’samenities, with offroad in the town, closetothe amenities and station. Accommodation parking and adouble garage. Accommodation includes sitting room, includes living/dining room,kitchen/breakfast room,utility/rear dining room, conservatory,kitchen/breakfast room, master bedroom lobby,main bedroom with en-suite, 2further bedrooms with family with ensuite dressing and shower room, 3further bedrooms. EPC C bathroom. Garden. EPC D

Rye, East Sussex -£220,000 Rye, East Sussex -Rental£2,950pcm AGradeIIlisted period cottage located in the lee of the historic Alandmark property in the Citadel overlooking the church, with landgate in the Citadel of the Ancient Town with views from the first no passing vehicular traffic. This Grade II listed house, featured in floor to the front over the Town Salts. Accommodationincludes BBC’sMapp&Lucia, has light versatile accommodation with period Kitchen,sitting room with wood burner,1bedroom andshower features throughout including5reception rooms, 6bedroomsand 5 room and study.Courtyardgarden and store. bathrooms. Awell maintained and maturewalled garden. RYEOFFICE 01797227338 MAYFAIR OFFICE 0870112 7099 phillipsandstubbs.co.uk OUT AND ABOUT WITH TILLEY

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CAN BE MIXED TO ANY RAL OR NCS COLOUR Climatised Coatings (UK) Ltd COUNTRYCOLOUR: Highest qualitycolourand protection forwood 105 Weston Grove, Chester CH2 1QP Tel: 01244 378488 [email protected] üüüü ü MICROPOROUS DURABLE UV-RESISANT OIL-BASED HIGH COVERAGE www.climatisedcoatings.co.uk | | | | Cornwall guide Thinking of making a move to the Cornish coast or simply looking for an amazing location to enjoy a coastal getaway? Our Cornwall Guide has it all – an array of amazing hotels, restaurants and beaches to choose from. Enjoy!

WHAT’s InsIde Top 10 hoTels

property hotspots move To: BUDe secret cornwall 10 BesT Things To Do restaurants with views cornish recipes PHOTOGRAPH ILLUSTRATION ALAMY SHUTTERSTOCK parking lovely swimming Stunning fused glass seascapes, cornwall tranquil gorgeous jewellery, original friendlywaterside paintings and delightful ceramics quality excellent and sculpture. All at our beautiful stunning family new gallery in Padstow. facilities helford seselflf ccaatteerriingng pool leisure holiday beach helpful staff maenporth quiet location children clean views relaxing mawnan

Self catering watersideand country properties in stunning holidaylocations 11 Lanadwell Street, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8AN 01326250278 / www.holidaycornwall.co.uk www.janereevesgallery.co.uk Tel. 01841533 435

The Bay Talland Talland Bay,NrLooe, Cornwall, PL13 2JA 01503 272715 www.thebaytalland.com

The Bay,Talland, between Looe &Polperro in Cornwall, provides arare opportunity to rent astylish, contemporary home with direct access to the Cornish coastline. Set on asecluded hillside overlooking an idyllic cove, our stylish luxury 5* homes offer the perfect family retreat. Enjoy our exclusive clubhouse, indoor pool and gym. CORNWALL GUIDE

ALL-ROUNDER VICTORIAN LUXURY Bedruthan Steps, Fowey Hall, Fowey 1Mawgan Porth OUR TOP 10 7 This luxury family hotel has views This hotel has everything: funky rooms, over Fowey River Estuary and is a short family-friendly activities (especially during walk from Fowey’s restaurants, bars school holidays), lessons in watersports, CORNISH and shops. Luxurious touches include great food and drink and a fantastic antique furniture in the bedrooms and spa. What more could you want? From HOTELS tastefully decorated lounge areas. From £144 per night* (bedruthan.com). £190 per night (luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk).

SEASIDE SPA FABULOUS FOOD St Michael’s Hotel and Spa, Watergate Bay Hotel, Newquay 2 Falmouth 8 Enjoy your food with a view at Right next to Gyllyngvase Beach, this Watergate Bay Hotel. Visitors can spectacular hotel overlooks the sea choose from contemporary restaurant and its own sub-tropical gardens. It Zacry’s, low-key eatery The Beach Hut, has an onsite spa that offers tailored or the laidback Living Space to dine at treatments, an indoor pool and a mealtimes. Next door is Jamie Oliver’s south-facing sun deck. From £114 Fifteen Cornwall, which serves excellent per night (stmichaelshotel.co.uk). Cornish and Italian food. From £145 per night (watergatebay.co.uk). CONTINENTAL HOTSPOT The Idle Rocks, St Mawes 3 Think sea-view rooms, pretty balconette windows with French doors, French furnishings, Italian coffee machines and your name chalked 5 ADULTS ONLY on the door. The décor includes modern artwork and patterned textiles The Scarlet, Mawgan Porth in pretty nautical shades. From £200 This child-free eco hotel sits per night (idlerocks.com) . COASTAL GARDENS on the edge of the ocean. The Nare, Veryan-in-Roseland STYLE CENTRAL Unwind in the Scarlet Spa or 9 A country house hotel on the St Moritz Hotel, take a dip in the clifftop hot beach, The Nare is home to a sub- 4 Trebetherick tropical garden that thrives all year A 21st-century glamour-puss with tub. From £220 per night round. Take a walk on the beach or Art-Deco styling and a laid-back vibe, through the gardens before joining in this hotel has a poolside restaurant, (scarlethotel.co.uk). with wine tastings and art classes. dashes of vintage design and the West From £290 per night (narehotel.co.uk). Country’s only Cowshed Spa. Book a king room, and you get the keys to CHILD-FRIENDLY your own St Moritz beach hut. From BOUTIQUE BLISS Polurrian Bay Hotel, £120 per night (stmoritzhotel.co.uk). Trevose Harbour House, 10 Mullion 6St Ives For little ones, there’s a crè che, Stay at Angela and Olivier’s boutique playground and games room. For bed and breakfast Trevose Harbour adults, hire a babysitter, while you House for Midcentury furnishings and enjoy a delicious dinner in one of the a coastal palette. Choose the Terrace restaurants. From £120 per night Deluxe and you’ll enjoy your own (luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk). sitting area and views over the Our next Beach Clean will be held harbour. From £140 per night at one of these hotels. Which one (trevosehouse.co.uk). do you think it will be? ILLUSTRATION SHUTTERSTOCK * ALL PRICES BASED ON TWO SHARING A DOUBLE ROOM ILLUSTRATION RYAN-GOFF PHOTOGRAPHS KIRSTIN PRISK, PAUL CORNish pROpeRty hOtspOts Whether you want to buy a quayside cottage, a beach flat or a waterfront house, Cornwall has it all. Here, we pick our favourite hotspots words Lesley Gillilan

56 coast coastmagazine.co.uk CORNWALL GUIDE

For affordable views Looe (south coast) In this salty little harbour town on Cornwall’s south coast, higgledy-piggledy terraces of houses tumble down the wooded banks of the lovely Looe Valley. And across all price ranges, there is a better-than-average chance that your house will have views of the fishing quays, the East and West rivers, the beach, the sea or the countryside. In the steep streets of upper Looe, vehicle access is limited and the gardens are often tiny, but it’s affordable (cheaper than nearby Fowey). A quayside cottage can sell for under £200,000, while a roomy detached with views of Looe Island from Hannafore Point can fetch up to £700,000. The scenic Looe Valley branch line connects to mainline trains to Paddington. AverAge house price: £269,000

For surfers and families Newquay (North coast) With seven glorious beaches and a lively, youthful vibe, Newquay is Cornwall’s Surfing Central – but this breezy north-coast town is not just for weekends. Grown-up surfers have a habit of sticking around, and even settling down (investing in local businesses or raising broods of little surfers), and it’s easy to see why. Newquay has spas, bars, great restaurants (Rick Stein’s fish-and-chippy opened on Fistral Beach last year), handy connections (a railway station and an international airport), good schools and affordable houses. There are a few millionaire properties on sought-after Pentire Head, or on the banks of the River Gannel Estuary, but in town, three- or four-bedroom Victorian houses sell for under £300,000; shiny new-build apartments for under £200,000. AverAge house price:

£259,350 shutterstock stock ILLUstratIoN photographs PoLLy

coastmagazine.co.uk 57 coast For village life St AgneS (north coASt) Popular st agnes is cornwall in a nutshell: a great mix of community, natural beauty, legend (Bolster the Giant is a local celebrity), roses-round-the-door cottages and rugged beaches overlooked by atmospheric industrial ruins (the engine houses at Wheal coates are among the most photographed sites within the cornish Mining World Heritage site). the pretty village (butcher, baker, fishmonger, galleries and organic food) trails downhill to trevaunance cove. From nearby chapel Porth, you can walk all the way to Porthtowan. cottages from £260,000; family house at chapel Porth around £650,000. AverAge house price: £339,779

For the Poldark factor chArleStown (SoUth coASt) This 18th-century St Austell Bay village stood in for the city of Truro in BBC’s recent remake of Winston Graham’s Cornish epic, Poldark. And it’s not its only film role. Charlestown Harbour has also appeared in Doctor Who, Treasure Island and Mansfield Park. But it’s Poldark that has fired the imagination. And with five more series in the pipeline, what a place to live. Home to Square Sail (whose fleet of replica tall ships are docked in Charlestown) and a Shipwreck & Heritage Centre, it’s all granite and cobbles; there is a sandy beach; most of the houses are Georgian and Grade II-listed. Cottages from £250,000 up to £600,000 (if you want frontline views of the action). AverAge house price: £283,695

For Yachts and among the most expensive in the county, YummY houses but for those who can afford St Mawes, St MAweS, roSelAnd it’s an idyllic spot. Tucked away on the PeninSUlA (SoUth coASt) toe of the sleepy Roseland Peninsula, When designer and hotelier Olga Polizzi where the Percuil River meets the Fal turned an old yachting club into the Estuary, its harbour quays gaze across nautical-chic Tresanton Hotel back in the water towards Falmouth. On the 1997, she sealed St Mawes’ reputation seafront, rows of thatch and colour- as Cornwall’s most fashionable sailing washed cottages look irresistible, but they centre – a round of Pimms, power-boating won’t leave much change out of £2 million. and summer regattas. Property prices are AverAge house price: £718,530 AlAMY, SAvillS, StAgS SAvillS, PHotoGraPHs AlAMY,

58 coast coastmagazine.co.uk For a city fix Kingsand-cawsand and the rame Peninsula (south coast) This is a best-of-both-worlds scenario: bus takes longer, via Whitesand Bay a fist of dreamy Cornish headlands within (note the beautiful beaches) and the commuting distance of Devon’s City Torpoint car ferry. Or from nearby of Plymouth. In the so-called ‘Forgotten St Germans, be in Paddington in four Corner’, Kingsand-Cawsand is a pair of hours or Plymouth in 17 minutes. Expect adjoining villages with two little beaches, to pay around £400,000-£600,000 for For beaches a harbour slipway, narrow streets of a three- or four-bedroom terrace on on a budget fishermen’s cottages and views across Kingsand seafront; £250,000 for a hayle (north coast) Plymouth Sound. For the city, take a foot two-bedroom backstreet cottage. This former industrial town – ferry to Stonehouse or the Barbican. A AverAge house price: £357,950 one of the principal ports for the tin and copper mining industry – is only a whisper away from St Ives, but its properties are almost half the price. Okay, so it’s not as pretty as its arty neighbour, but just look at the beach: three miles of golden sand dunes stretching from Hayle River to Godrevy Point. Part of the Cornish Mining World Heritage site, the little town has a colourful past, but it has a bright future, too: an ambitious regeneration is planned for the disused harbour area, the old town’s 19th-century foundries and warehouses are already finding new uses. Expect to pay £130,000 for a two-bedroom cottage; £450,000 for a six-bedroom detached. AverAge house price: £233,540

For sailing, seafood and culture Falmouth (south coast) Truro is Cornwall’s capital, but seafaring Falmouth is its beating heart – a colourful combination of port, Victorian resort and university town, it’s an all-year-round sort of place with great beaches, a thriving arts scene, a Tudor castle and one of the liveliest high streets in the county. Local seafood is served up in the town’s many restaurants: Rick Stein’s Fish on Discovery Quay, Samphire and The Shed among others; and with Truro High School for Girls just half an hour away, the area is also great for families. Falmouth’s handsome Regency townhouses, which often have harbour views and lush, sub-tropical gardens, sell for around £300-£500,000. Pay around £400,000 for a flat overlooking Gyllyngvase Beach; £750,000 for a roomy period detached. AverAge house price: £317,730

coastmagazine.co.uk 59 coast For roMantic landscapes BosCastLe (north Coast) At the foot of the Valency Valley, which wiggles down to the ocean from the edge of Bodmin For escapists Moor, this is quintessential Cadgwith and the North Cornwall: a rocky harbour Lizard (south Coast) inlet set between brooding With its Serpentine cliffs, secret headlands, fishing cottages, old coves and time-warp villages, pilchard sheds and a whiff of the tip of the Lizard Peninsula smugglers. Crowds of summer – mainland Britain’s most tourists mill around the harbour For artists southerly point – is one of – now fully recovered from PenzanCe (south Coast) Cornwall’s most out-of-the-way the floods of 2004 – with its Priced out of St Ives, artists are gravitating to places. The village of Cadgwith National Trust centre, tea rooms Penzance where property is cheaper and the light had a moment of fame in and Museum of Witchcraft. For is just as good. The town also offers two prestigious 2011 when it was the focus of a quieter Boscastle, climb the galleries (the Newlyn and The Exchange), acres a BBC series, The Fisherman’s hill to Paradise (that really is of botanical gardens, a wealth of history (take Apprentice with Monty Halls, its name); walk along the coast a walk down 18th-century Chapel Street), palm but otherwise it’s a sleepy place path to find some of Cornwall’s trees on the prom, and some of the best Georgian with beached fishing boats on a wildest, loneliest landscapes, its houses in coastal Cornwall (in Penzance, they call sandy cove, thatched cottages, highest cliffs, Tintagel Castle, them ‘gentlemen’s residences’). It’s a little shabby one pub and a blue, tin-clad the beach at Trebarwith Strand. in places, but Penzance is on the up: the seafront’s chapel the size of a living room. Prices range from around Art-Deco Jubilee Pool is undergoing refurbishment; Detached properties in Cadgwith, £200,000 for a stone cottage, and there are some interesting hotels, such as the Lizard or nearby Bass Point sell up to £450,000 for a three-to- Artist Residence and Chapel House (see page 22). for around £250-£650,000, with four-bedroom detached. It’s the gateway to Land’s End and the wilds of the the higher prices going to clifftop AverAge house price: Penwith Peninsula, with Newlyn fishing harbour on cottages with spectacular views. £298,320 the doorstep. There are also direct trains to Paddington. AverAge house price:

AverAge house price: £252,060 £340,500 darren stiCk, LiLLiCraP ChiLCott photographs aLaMy,

For literary connections Fowey estuary (south Coast) Daphne du Maurier, Arthur Quiller-Couch and Kenneth Grahame (The Wind in the Willows) all have deep associations with this sylvan estuary; comedian-turned-author Dawn French lives there now – and they were all drawn by the same atmosphere and inspirational landscapes that makes modern Fowey (pronounced Foy) one of the most sought-after harbour towns on the Cornish coast. Ferries cross the wide estuary linking Fowey – a well-heeled harbour town lined with terraces of colour- washed merchant houses – and little Polruan with its boatyard quay and hilly streets. Both are within a cliff-path walk of beautiful beaches: Lantic Bay, Lansallos, Ready Money Cove and Polridmouth. House prices range from £250,000 for a small cottage with no view, or £1 million plus for waterfront numbers with private moorings. AverAge house price: £390,200

60 coast coastmagazine.co.uk

CORNWALL GUIDE Move to... BUDE This small, friendly seaside town in North Cornwall offers glorious beaches, stylish seafront restaurants and walks along a wild coastline words Lesley Gillilan illustration Tom Jay

he Victorians called it the ‘Brighton of the West’, Tand it’s fair to say that Bude was cornwall’s first proper tourist destination: a fashionable watering hole with magnificent beaches, soaring cliffs and views that make the heart sing. alfred Lord tennyson was one of many captivated visitors. things went downhill when the railway CAN YOU closed in 1966, AFFORD IT? leaving the town Bude: £280,133 stranded, way up Stratton: £257,025 on the north coast Cornwall: £252,876 – so close to the uK: £284,352 Devon border that average houSe priCeS: Ber 2015]. SourCe: Zoopla [deCem K). some say it’s not (www.Zoopla.Co.u a slow revival over aBoVE Bude work prompted a move to Bude Harbour LEFt even proper cornwall. the last 20 years and The River Neet in 2004. ‘I had no connections It’s still a bit off the beaten since it was voted ‘Best flows through there at all,’ she says. at first track, but Bude has enjoyed coast Resort’ at the 2015 British the town centre they searched the countryside before joining travel awards, now seems the sea at for somewhere to match the a good time to take a look. Summerleaze cotswold village they’d come Beach First impressions are of a from, but in the end, Bude rather haphazard town; almost won them over. ‘the location is as though its buildings have brilliant,’ she says. ‘We love the been thrown at the landscape wildness of the coast, its surfy and left to fall wherever they beaches and outcrops of rock.’ fancy – straggling around the since they moved, the town edges of a clifftop golf course, has changed for the better. on the banks of the River Neet ‘It’s got a bit more style – with or straying into surrounding more places to eat and more downland. But where else in independent shops. But it’s still cornwall has a canal sea-lock, a quiet and not too touristy. Bude mock castle built on sand, and is very much a family resort – for a beach called ‘summerleaze’? people who love the outdoors.’ and, says local resident Rachel the small, friendly town, has Barton coates, ‘Life in Bude also proved the perfect place is all about the beaches.’ for Rachel’s two girls, Daisy, 11, Rachel, who runs her own and Millie, 14, to grow up in. design company, wasn’t keen ‘I can go to work and let the kids on the idea when her husband’s whizz off to the beach and meet

62 coast coastmagazine.co.uk WHAT YOU CAN GET FOR YOUR MONEY Here are some of our favourite properties for sale

£696,000 £485,000 £325,000 £250,000

WOW HOUSE BEACH VILLA CHARACTER COTTAGE GOLDEN OLDIE this impressive 1920s arts close to crooklets Beach, at clifftop Upton, on the on old Post office Hill in & crafts-style house in central this terraced villa has eight southern outskirts of Bude, stratton (less than two miles

Bude has seven bedrooms bedrooms, smart contemporary this charming cottage has from Bude), this Grade II-listed SHUTTERSTOCK ILLUstRatIoN ALAmy and lots of original panelling, interiors and spectacular views two bedrooms, beams, a wood mid-terrace property has three ironmongery and stained-glass of the golf course and the coast. burner and pretty gardens. bedrooms and a big, grassy windows. Colwills (01288 Bond Oxborough Phillips (01288 Bond Oxborough Phillips (01288 town garden. Colwills (01288 355828, colwills.co.uk). 355066, bopproperty.com). 355066, bopproperty.com). 355828, colwills.co.uk). PHotoGRaPHs

coastmagazine.co.uk 63 coast CORNWALL GUIDE

TIME OUT of being further from a railway Pay a visit network than any other town in Bude is big on adventure England. and the nearest cities The Beach (01288 389800, tourism – surfing, canoeing, – Exeter, Plymouth and truro thebeachatbude.co.uk) coasteering and other outdoor – are at least an hour away. activities that make the most of London takes five hours by car. this wild atlantic coastline (and the nearest airport is Newquay. the highest cliffs in cornwall). Its town beaches, summerleaze SCHOOlS and crooklets, extend south to Widemouth Bay and north to the Bude’s only secondary National trust’s sandymouth. For is Budehaven community serious surfers, it doesn’t get school; it’s rated by ofsted much better than this. and it’s as ‘Requiring improvement’ paradise for walkers, too: but Rachel’s girls, Daisy and the clifftop footpaths either Millie, are happy there. side of the town are spectacular. a night out might feature Overlooking Summerleaze Beach, this REalITY CHECk cocktails on the deck at the cool, classy boutique hotel brought a Beach, or a seafood supper at town planning is not Bude’s high-note of fresh New England-style Life’s a Beach on summerleaze. strongest point. one of the to Bude’s seafront when it opened in annual events include a Jazz best spots on the seafront is 2011. Rooms are light and spacious Festival in august; the Bude occupied by a sainsbury’s (three have terraces, and most have for Food Festival in september. supermarket. and other than the ocean views); the restaurant spills small, independent Rebel out on to a deck; the chef has an cinema (rebelcinema.co.uk) at impressive CV and the food is heavenly. JOBS & COMMUTING Poundstock, there is no theatre Without a doubt, this is the best place the futuristic dishes of the or arts centre (the nearest is in town. B&B from £120 per night. GcHQ listening station, on an hour’s drive away). the cliffs to the north of Bude, provides jobs and boosts the COMING Up their friends – along with all the oPPosItE, toP local economy but tourism is its Summerleaze other families in Bude.’ Beach is a short mainstay. Bude’s out-of the-way there are plans to build 250 walk away from location means that home-grown new homes at Hillhead between the town centre WHERE TO BUY oPPosItE, businesses, such as shops and Bude and stratton, and another BottoM restaurants, can survive on local 75 at Binhamy Farm. the empty some of the prettiest (and Bude Canal custom, even out of season strand Hotel will reopen this priciest) properties in Bude are – Rachel successfully year as a Premier Inn. on Breakwater Road, a line of located her design WHO’S WHO? and the former Victorian houses that overlook business from the Bude’s most famous son is Penarvor Hotel the canal. other lovely spots cotswolds to Goldsworthy Gurney, the Victorian by crooklets inventor behind early steam are the streets around crooklets Bude. But forget carriages and the ‘Bude-Light’, Beach is to Beach and the golf course commuting: Bude an oxygenated oil lamp first used be turned into (Flexbury Park or Downs View); has the rather in the House of Commons in five sea-view 1839. His former home, Bude in these areas, expect to pay dubious reputation townhouses. Castle, is now a museum. up to £500,000 for a Victorian townhouse. Properties with sea views are rare, even on ocean ILLUstRatIoN SHUTTERSTOCK ILLUstRatIoN View Road. a better bet is to head south towards Upton ALAMY ALAMY and Widemouth Bay. For pretty ’Bude is still quiet and not too cottages and cornish thatch, go north to Morwenstow or touristy. It’s a family resort – PHotoGRaPHs inland to neighbouring stratton. for people who love the outdoors’

64 coast coastmagazine.co.uk What Rachel likes about… BUDE The coast-path walk from Bude to Sandymouth, stopping off at Northcott Beach, and ending up with teas and ice creams at Sandymouth Café (sandymouth.com). ‘If you time it right with the tide, you can walk back to Bude along the beach.’

The 1930s tidal Sea Pool on Summerleaze Beach (budeseapool.org) – the 90-metre, semi-natural swimming pool provides safe bathing and, says Rachel, ‘a brilliant place for kids to hang out in the summer’.

CrookletS: Rachel’s family has a beach hut there, five minutes’ walk from their house, and they love Rosie’s Kitchen (rosieskitchen.co.uk) and the rocky corners of the beach where you can hide from the crowds.

coastmagazine.co.uk 65 CoaST SECRET

ThereCORNWALL are many stunning areas on the Cornish coast still waiting to be discovered. Here, we uncover some of our favourite hideaways… WORDS Nicola Smith

ornwall. Its charms Cornwall’s secrets. Parking is a all year round with locals, but many draw masses of tourists good 10 minutes’ walk away, while people wouldn’t know it was there.’ for much of the year, the fi nal woodland descent to If you follow the river’s winding C and many of its beaches, the beach is moderately steep, way inland, you come to the Ferry walks, restaurants and tea shops deterring many people from Boat Inn overlooking Helford Passage heave with visitors in the summer visiting. But it is worth the effort. Beach, which teems with people months. Yet, magically, it retains The beach reduces to a narrow stony on summer days. Yet Grebe, just some mystery. Pockets of the county sliver at high tide, its gently curving minutes away, remains an idyll. remain under the radar, familiar form creating a private sanctuary. Travel by water further along the only to locals, from remote beaches It’s also an ideal place for a quiet picturesque Helford, perhaps by to hidden walks, tucked away summer’s evening swim, when all kayak, or by taking the short ferry ride eateries to charming places to stay, seems right with the world. Celia across from Helford Passage Beach, frequented only by those in the know. Tuckfi eld, a local resident who and you will also stumble across the Grebe Beach, on the northern regularly walks her dog at Grebe, is Shipwrights Arms, a fi ttingly thatched banks of the beautiful Helford River, reluctant to share her sanctuary: ‘It is and whitewashed pub at the heart of is a perfect place to contemplate so secluded and tranquil, and popular Helford village. Rescued by villagers

66 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk when its survival was under threat in a sprawling, vibrant, wildflower March to late october) you’ll find an in 2013, the pub has been brought meadow high above the river. today ingeniously converted old French back to life, its terrace overlooking it is converted into a gallery and citroen van – alias the thirstea co the water for warm summer days, self-service tea shop (open late (thethirsteacompany.co.uk) – serving complemented by a quirky and cosy april to october), with luxury holiday tea and coffee in the stable yard. interior, not to mention a wood burner accommodation (kestlebarton.co.uk). ‘We get everyone from daily dog for those chilly winter evenings. Each visitor here feels like they alone walkers to beach goers, often have discovered this other world. surprised to see our little van in the WONDERFUL WALKS cornwall has no shortage of cafés courtyard,’ says seth Richards of From here, there is a lovely walk and tea shops, and a number are, the thirstea co. ‘But once they’ve that winds over fields and through pleasingly, hidden to the untrained eye. had a cuppa or a piece of cake, woodland, skirting alongside eerie If you find yourself walking the coastal they are often back, methodically Frenchman’s creek, with its tree-lined footpath on the Roseland, above working their way through the menu.’ banks and long-forgotten shipwreck, towan Beach at the southern most Further west is Perranuthnoe, until you stumble across Kestle tip of Gerrans Bay, cut inland to a pretty village found down an Barton, an ancient cornish farmstead Porth Farm, where (from the end of unremarkable turning off the

The Thirstea Co, a travelling tea room, is based above Towan Beach from late March to October

coastmagazine.co.uk 67 coast A394. In addition to its attractive church, which dates back to ‘O the beaten track, Portheras Cove is the 1200s, and its huge sandy beach, Perranuthnoe is also perfect for a quiet beach picnic, even home to the Peppercorn Kitchen (peppercornkitchen.co.uk), serving in the height of the holiday season’ memorable Middle-Eastern and Northern African-inspired dishes. As well as a small garden with views across to the rugged coast, it has a wood burner inside, creating recommended. You’ll be glad you currents. After an exhilarating a cosy retreat for blustery days. steered off the beaten track for this. walk, take shelter in the Kynance Or head further west to the Lizard, Café (kynancecovecafe.co.uk), and to Rosemergy Tea Rooms BEAUTIFUL BEACHES with its dramatic views out to sea. (rosemergy.com), a 200-year-old For those wanting to discover The fresh crab sandwiches alone farmhouse hidden in the North deserted beaches, there are a number are worth the trip. Cornish Moors midway between around if you know where to look. Crantock-based photographer, St Ives and St Just. The Aga-baked Combining a spectacular location Chris Simmons, runs residential scones are widely believed to be with an excellent café, Kynance Cove seascape photography workshops the best in the county, but call in is a National Trust location on the around Cornwall (c-simmonsphoto. advance to check there are some Lizard Peninsula, boasting stunning co.uk), and is continually seeking left. Not far away, in tiny St Just, is cliffs and famed for its Devils’ Bellows out ‘undiscovered’ locations. He the Dog and Rabbit café, tucked – a blowhole on one of the small cites Lundy Cove, between popular behind the village newsagents. tidal islands within the cove, emitting Polzeath and Port Quin, as one of his A warm welcome awaits, as does a peculiar snorting sound at half favourite spots. ‘It’s a really pretty cove excellent coffee and cake, while tide. The beach below is accessible that opens up at low tide, found after a

PHOTOGRAPHS CHRIS SIMMONS, VISIT CORNWALL/JOHN SUCH SHUTTERSTOCK ILLUSTRATION the Welsh rarebit also comes highly at low tide, but beware of strong spirited walk down the rolling hillsides

68 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk CORNWALL GUIDE

Top 5 Cornish seCret destinations

dolly’s Falmouth Church Street, Falmouth TR11 3EG Tucked away upstairs in a room of Georgian splendour, Dolly’s is a slightly risqué music-hall- meets-cocktail-bar by night, masquerading as a tea shop by day. Its mind-boggling choice of gins is one of several compelling cLocKWIsE, FRoM FaR reasons to climb the stairs LEFt Carnewas Beach (01326 218400, dollysbar.co.uk). on the North Cornish coast; Kestle Barton is an ancient farmstead set st neCtans Glen in a wildflower meadow Trethevy, Tintagel PL34 high above the Helford This ancient woodland near River; sand-and-shingle Tintagel boasts a 60ft waterfall, Towan Beach near St formed by the River Trevillet, Mawes on the Roseland Peninsula offers and gives rise to many myths calm waters for safe and legends. You might even swimming; spectacular spot a Cornish piskie (01840 Kynance Cove 779538, st-nectansglen.co.uk).

lower Barns B&B of a verdant valley, with a good surf chris. ‘But take a map,’ he warns, and Bosue, St Austell PL26 6EU break for experienced surfers.’ be aware of strong currents in certain Set in two acres of gardens near It is often such challenging walks, tidal conditions. the Lost Gardens of Heligan, or limited access, that ensure some another favourite is carnewas and this B&B is a celebration of boutique luxury in deepest beaches remain quiet while others Bedruthan steps. Just a mile beyond Cornwall. Check into the South attract the crowds. Hawkers and Mawgan Porth you will find a National American-inspired Nook suite, Harbour cove is another such gem, trust location at what chris claims is complete with its own sauna a wide sandy bay found by taking ‘arguably the most breathtakingly (01726 844811, lowerbarns.co.uk). the backroads beyond Padstow. beautiful destination in cornwall’. Many It offers panoramic views across people are familiar with the clifftop the Coddy shaCk, Doom Bar to Daymer Bay on the walk here, but try descending the St Martins, Looe PL13 1NX far side of the camel Estuary. as steely plunging set of steps to the This restaurant is run by chris says, lack of parking makes beaches below and you will have ‘Colin the Cod’, a local legend this a less frequented beach. your pick of places for a picnic, even renowned for his fish skills. in high season. again, be aware of Enjoy dishes in the nautical- inspired shack or on the beach strong currents, and check the tide BreathtakinG Views (01503 263091, coddyshack.com). Portheras cove, a remote beach times before you set out. just off the famous atlantic coastal of course, walking works up an old hiGh street route, is also an attractive hideaway appetite, and what better way to Falmouth TR11 2BY if you are prepared to do the legwork. sate your hunger than fish and Venture up to Falmouth’s slightly Found at the foot of towering cliffs, chips on a clifftop – with the locals? hidden High Street to discover it is only reachable via a steep path Head west to pretty st agnes and the Old Town Hall, Sweet Pea & that runs down a plunging valley Lewsey Lou’s (lewseylous.co.uk), Betty Boutique (sweetpeabetty. near Morvah. ‘Being well off the perched on the clifftop in trevaunance co.uk) and the Old Brewery Yard, beaten track, this is a perfect place cove. tuck into the catch of the home to Café Cinnamon with for a quiet beach picnic, even in the day, hand-cut chips and a bottle its vegetarian fare. height of the holiday season,’ says of local beer. But don’t tell anyone.

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www.cornwallfinestparks.co.uk 10 best... THINGS TO DO IN CORNWALL Planning a trip to the South West? These family-friendly activities include everything from open-air theatre and glorious gardens to ancient castles and challenging watersports WORDS Madeleine Barber

FOR SHORELINE THEATRICS

The Minack Theatre, Porthcurno This waterside open-air theatre thrives 1during the summer, when a programme of drama, musicals, opera, comedy and storytelling takes place. The 1930s-built theatre is made from

granite boulders, its construction orchestrated by wall Rowena Cade, who lived in Minack House on the clifftop at the time. The theatre’s first performance was The Tempest in August 1932, but today you can catch the likes of Port Isaac’s Fisherman’s Friends and The Three Belles. Shows start on 15 March. The theatre is open 10am-3:30pm daily until 31 March, when it opens 9:30am-5:30pm. Entry fees are £4.50 for adults and £2.20 for under 15s (minack.com). Stay in Helpful Holidays’ Z70, which sleeps six (helpfulholidays.com). PHOTOGRAPH greg blundell/visiT corn FOR EXPANSIVE GARDENS

Lost Gardens of Heligan, Pentewan For a real-life ‘Secret Garden’ experience head 2to the Lost Gardens of Heligan. They were only discovered 25 years ago on a grand estate, which now amasses to 200 acres of cultivated and farmed land, planted plots for pleasure and Cornwall’s only outdoor jungle garden. It’s here that visitors can duck and dive under giant rhubarb, banana plantations and avenues of palms before passing ponds on a raised boardwalk. The sub-tropical environment also contains a 100-foot-high Burmese rope bridge, which is not for the acrophobic. Keep an eye out for

the Giant’s Head, Mud Maid and Grey Lady on the Woodland Walk before stopping off at the Heligan Kitchen and Bakery. The gardens and estate are open every day from 10am-5pm until 31 March, when closing extends to 6pm. Garden admission costs £12.50 for adults, £6 for children and is free for toP LEFt A sculpture of HELiGAN GArdENs LTd, under 5s (heligan.com). Stay at Penpol in the village FOR SUSTAINABLE SEAS of Mevagissey. Sleeps six-12 (kateandtoms.com). the Mud Maid at the Lost Gardens of National Lobster Hatchery, Padstow Heligan toP FOR SEASIDE CYCLING Sustainable seas are something that we RIGHt Views should all be striving for. The work of the over the Camel 4 The Camel Trail, the Camel Estuary Estuary from National Lobster Hatchery – a marine conservation, This renowned cycle route runs between the Camel Trail research and education charity – is helping us Wenfordbridge and Padstow, passing through aBoVE Learn preserve marine biodiversity by aiding baby lobsters 3 about marine Bodmin and Wadebridge. The 18-mile trail follows conservation through their early life and releasing them into the a disused railway and routes through a Special at the National wild. On a visit to the lobster hatchery, you will learn Area of Conservation, which makes for stunning Lobster Hatchery all about marine conservation, see young lobsters (as in Padstow surroundings. Most of the trail is free from traffic and well as the resident giant lobster), and take part in fun steep inclines, so it’s a family-friendly cycle ride, and activities, which are available for all ages. Don’t forget it offers spectacular views of the Camel Estuary, to visit the Little Shop of Lobsters and, if you like, adopt which are ideal for picnic backdrops. There is free a lobster yourself. The visitor centre is open daily from AdAm GibbArd/VisiT CorNwALL, ALAmy, juLiAN sTEPHENs/ ALAmy, AdAm GibbArd/VisiT CorNwALL, access all year round to the Camel Trail and bikes are 10am. Closing times vary. Admission fees are £3.75 available for hire from Padstow and Wadebridge for adults, £1.75 for children, and under 5s go free (visitcornwall.com). Stay at Fifteen (cornishgems.com) (nationallobsterhatchery.co.uk). Stay at Little Dukes in the PHotoGRaPHs mATT jEssoP/VisiT CorNwALL, © TATE/mArCus LEiTH © TATE/mArCus jEssoP/VisiT CorNwALL, mATT or Retallack Resort (retallackresort.co.uk). heart of Padstow. Sleeps four (cornishhorizons.co.uk).

72 coast coastmagazine.co.uk CORNWALL GUIDE

FOR RESCUED WILDLIFE

Cornish Seal Sanctuary, Gweek Surrounded by 40 acres of undulating 6countryside, the Cornish Seal Sanctuary is a haven for stray, sick and injured seal pups that are discovered along the coast of Cornwall. The centre provides educational talks about how seals are rescued, rehabilitated and released. Look out for the sanctuary’s beloved cross-eyed Ray, who is suspected to be brain damaged, and Babyface, who is living with one eye at the grand old age of 32. If tums get hungry, the Seal Sanctuary Café provides tasty titbits and, in summer, a barbecue. It is open daily from 10am-4pm. When bought online, tickets last seven days and cost £10.46 for adults and £8.75 for kids (visitsealife.com). Stay at Crab Pot Cottage, 20 minutes from the toP LEFt Try sanctuary. Sleeps six (porthlevenholidaycottages.co.uk). surfing with

FOR WATERSPORTS the Extreme Academy at FOR COASTAL CULTURE Extreme Academy, Watergate Bay Watergate Bay Watergate Bay Beach, a two-mile stretch toP RIGHt Pay Tate St Ives and the Barbara Hepworth of golden sand with dynamic waves, is one a visit to the Sculpture Garden, St Ives 5 Cornish Seal of the best places in the country to go surfing. Sanctuary in 7Long known for being an artists’ hub, it’s no The neighbouring Extreme Academy is the go-to Gweek aBoVE surprise that St Ives has acquired so many illustrious for surfing tuition here, as it offers professional A Barbara art galleries. The most prominent is Tate St Ives, Hepworth instructors and all the latest equipment. Other sports sculpture which is a stone’s throw from Porthmeor Beach and available are bodyboarding, kitesurfing, traction-kiting, entitled Two offers stimulating exhibitions from renowned artists. stand-up paddlesurfing, waveskiing and hand-planing. Forms (Divided Around the corner is Barbara Hepworth’s Museum Circle) 1969, Can’t decide which one to try? Then book in for Tate © Bowness and Sculpture Garden, where visitors can explore her an ‘extreme day’, where you can pick and choose artworks in their natural habitat. Activity trails and sports. Open daily 9am-5pm. A day surf and hire sculpture quests are available for children. Closed for costs £47. Lessons from £95 and extreme days refurbishment, Tate St Ives re-opens on 21 May. The from £85 (extremeacademy.co.uk). Stay at Beach Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden is Retreats (beachretreats.co.uk), Hendra Holiday Park open daily from 10am-4:20pm and costs £6.60 for (hendra-holidays.com), Porth Beach Holiday Park adults. Kids go free (tate.org.uk). Stay at The White (porthbeach.co.uk) or The Park (mawganporth.co.uk). Lantern, which sleeps four (carbisbayholidays.co.uk). ILLUstRatIoN SHUTTERSTOCK ILLUstRatIoN

coastmagazine.co.uk 73 coast FOR ICONIC BIOMES

The Eden Project, bodelva This eco-friendly site is speckled with biomes, 8Mediterranean and rainforest ecosystems, and outdoor gardens brimming with plants and sculptures. Don’t miss the giant bee amidst the flowerbeds, the WEEE Man (a seven-metre-high sculpture showing how much electronic waste a British household discards in a lifetime) or the chance to tread the rainforest canopy walkway. For adrenaline-seekers, the Eden Project is home to England’s longest zip-wire and a giant swing. The site is open 10am-4pm daily. Check the website for closings and training days. When booked in advance, tickets cost £22.50 for adults and £12.60 for kids (edenproject.com). Stay in a toP LEFt property at The Bay Talland (thebaytalland.com) Explore the biomes at the FOR A UNIQUE CASTLE or at the Fowey Hotel (thefoweyhotel.co.uk). Eden Project toP RIGHt See Tintagel Castle, Tintagel exhibitions at the The thrill of visiting this Cornish castle FOR NAUTICAL HISTORY National Maritime Museum Cornwall 10comes from its natural topography. It’s National Maritime Museum, Falmouth aBoVE Clifftop split across an eroded headland, so part of the castle Packed with historical artefacts, the Tintagel Castle is perched on an island while the rest remains on the has breathtaking 9National Maritime Museum Cornwall will views and mainland. In the wards on the mainland, search for not disappoint. Current exhibitions include hidden treasures Dark Age pottery, before crossing the chasm to the Mermaids: Women at Sea (ends 21 February) island and climbing stone steps to the castle’s Great and Viking Voyages – where treasured relics sit Hall and chapel dedicated to local saint St Juliot. alongside a full-scale replica Viking cargo ship Also on the island are rectangular huts and the Iron and visitors learn about myths and legends Gate, which guards the only landing-spot on the isle. – which runs until 2 January 2017. The museum It’s an ideal day out for avid explorers and history also provides activities, workshops and lectures. buffs. Open from 10am-4pm daily, 15-21 February Open from 10am-5pm daily. Admission is £12 for and weekends 22 February – 24 March. Entry fees adults, £8.50 for children and under 5s go free are £7.20 for adults and £4.30 for children (english- (nmmc.co.uk). Stay at La Mouette, which sits above heritage.org.uk). Stay at Trevalley House, which Falmouth town. Sleeps six (holidaycornwall.co.uk). sleeps seven (cornishhorizons.co.uk). ENgliSh hEriTagE, MaTT jESSoP/EdEN ProjECT, Toby wEllEr jESSoP/EdEN ProjECT, MaTT PHotoGRaPHs ENgliSh hEriTagE,

74 coast coastmagazine.co.uk Cornwall’s Hidden Treasure

Tucked away on the picturesque south coast of Cornwall you will find the elegant 37 bedroom Fowey Hotel. Offering breath taking views, exquisite service and fine dining in the 2 AA rosette Spinnakers restaurant, this 4 star boutique hotel is one of Cornwall’s finest.

For more details or to book please call 01726 832 551 The Fowey Hotel | Esplanade | Fowey | Cornwall | PL23 1HX Cornwall’s Hidden Treasure Visit us online at www.thefoweyhotel.co.uk

CORNISH DINING W IT H A V IE W From clifftop cuisine to quayside feasts, here’s our round-up of the best places to eat with unbeatable sea vistas WORDS James Stewart

HIDDEN HUT, PORTHCURNICK BEACH, NEAR ROSEVINE

WHY HERE? There’s no tea in a lunchtime special such as fragrant curry polystyrene cup at this beach shack or seafood chowder is worth the trip on Porthcurnick’s crescent of powder alone. Book far ahead online for the sand. Leased from the National Trust brilliant feast nights – tickets are as by Simon Stallard and Jemma Glass, hot as the Glastonbury Festival. it’s a place for yummy, freshly prepared WHAT DOES IT COST? From £3.50 food: soups, sandwiches, pasties and for a freshly baked Cornish pasty. cakes baked by Jemma’s mum. Simon’s HOW DO I BOOK? Visit hiddenhut.co.uk.

coastmagazine.co.uk 77 COAST coast FOOD

Q RESTAURANT, FOWEY

WHY HERE? Come here for harbour scenes instead of ocean vistas. All water-borne life drifts past tables on the quay; yachties on boats, resident swans, even the occasional dolphin. It’s enchanting on sun-drenched days; worth a reservation even if you want nothing more than a crab sandwich for lunch. Showcasing local suppliers, the kitchen ups the ante for dinner, updating French classics with a twist of modern Cornish ﬂ avours. Good winelist, too. WHAT DOES IT COST? £15 for the hot smoked salmon salad. HOW DO I BOOK? Call 01726 833302 or visit theoldquayhouse.com.

‘ALL WATER BORNE LIFE DRIFTS PAST TABLES ON THE QUAY; YACHTIES ON BOATS, RESIDENT SWANS, EVEN THE OCCASIONAL DOLPHIN’ DAVID GRIFFEN PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPH DAVID

78 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk coast FOOD

FIFTEEN, WATERGATE BAY

WHY HERE? You don’t come to this beach restaurant solely for the view. There’s also the Italian-inspired cooking – delicious risottos or mains like wood-ﬁ red John Dory with borlotti beans made from ingredients so local even the pasta is Cornish durum wheat – and the knowledge that you’re supporting local trainees. Nevertheless, BEACH CLUB, CARBIS BAY Fifteen’s horizon-busting panorama of Watergate Bay inspires many a visit. WHY HERE? There’s a hint of Bondi cool Mediterranean-inspired dishes. Better Book ahead to guarantee a window about Beach Club, the bistro of Carbis still, the Blue Flag beach below the table for a grandstand seat of the surfers. Bay Hotel, and not just because of its terrace is usually quiet. Take that, Bondi. WHAT DOES IT COST? A set menu cocktail bar by the beach. With sofas in WHAT DOES IT COST? A lunch special costs £32 per person. the chill-out zone and uninterrupted sea costs £14, including a glass of wine. HOW DO I BOOK? Call 01637 861000 views to Godrevy lighthouse, the airy HOW DO I BOOK? Call 01736 795311 or visit ﬁ fteencornwall.co.uk. dining room is a place to linger over light or visit carbisbayhotel.co.uk.carbisbayhotel.co.u

BEN TUNNICLIFFE SENNEN COVE, SENNEN

WHY HERE? Michelin-star man Ben Tunnicliffe is taking the menu up a level for his second season in this lofty beach DRIFTWOOD, ROSEVINE cabin on Cornwall’s toe, showcasing Cornish fruit de mer platters, fi sh WHY HERE? In a county that increasingly Cornishman Chris Eden. Organic, local, landed in nearby Newlyn, local lobster embraces beach bling, Driftwood’s homemade, his Modern European menus and shellfi sh. And the end-of-world soft creams and blues and driftwood tick every box. And the dishes? Full of view down Sennen Beach is as sculptures are reassuringly comfy fl avour and almost too beautiful to eat. sensational as ever. country-house. What commands the WHAT DOES IT COST? Three courses WHAT DOES IT COST? £10.50 for attention from this clifftop perch is the cost £55. beer-battered fi sh and hand-cut chips. widest vista of Atlantic in all Cornwall. Well, HOW DO I BOOK? Call 01872 580644 HOW DO I BOOK? Call 01736 871191 that and the Michelin-starred cooking of or visit driftwoodhotel.co.uk. or visit benatsennen.com.

coastmagazine.co.uk 79 COAST coast FOOD

SAM’S ON THE BEACH, POLKERRIS

WHY HERE? This is our favourite branch of Sam’s, south Cornwall’s family-friendly micro-chain. In summer, when they fl ing open the doors of its old lifeboat station above Polkerris harbour, you sit a fl ip-fl op’s throw from the beach. On stormy days you’re snug behind glass with a fl oor-to-ceiling view over St Austell Bay. The food is unpretentious – think wood-fi red pizzas, gutsy meat dishes, mussels and sardines every which way – and the service friendly. WHAT DOES IT COST? £18.95 for Classic Marinières. HOW DO I BOOK? Call 01726 812255 or visit samscornwall.co.uk.

‘IN SUMMER, WHEN THEY FLING OPEN THE DOORS, YOU SIT A FLIP FLOP’S THROW FROM THE BEACH’

80 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk :%/%*."B?>+&-) Relaxedcoastal "5;3# '37A7!@:8 retreats

000-",.&$/#+%')1.*"-,%-!( Astylish apart-hotelfor family friendly C2 1064= =1= <=9 holidaysand grown-upweekends by the beachinCornwall. Visit us at: www.rosevine.co.uk or call us on 01872580206.

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Love thesea?Love wildlife? Whynot join the Marine ConservationSociety? www.mcsuk.org/join tland) co Pure ﬂavour, oto © Natasha Ewins oto

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Graeme Cr Char les); SC037480 (S Deliciouslyuncomplicated,pure Wa and naturalCornish Sea Salt™ is really salty–deliveringfar more ﬂavour formuchlesssalt.

Membership from as little as £3.50 amonth Call 0300 3300 704 stered Charity No: 1004005 (England & stered gi protecting our seas, shores and wildlife www.cornishseasalt.co.uk Re Cornish

Saltwater Kitchen Cookbook containsCuisine real food for real people – fresh fish flipped straight from the rod to the pan, gourmet feasts made from foraged ingredients and simple lunches for carefree summer days. This unique cookbook showcases a new breed of cafés, beachside diners and pop-up food vans with a focus on artisan food and drink producers, foragers and creators

82 coast coastmagazine.co.uk liNe-caught SeNNeN mackerel, pickled vegetaBleS and lemoN crème fraîche From shore to the door, this mackerel was caught less than three miles away

PICKLED VEGETABLES container in the fridge. • 500ml white wine the vegetables will • 500ml white wine keep for a week. vinegar • 500g caster sugar CrèmE frAîChE • 1 bay leaf add the cream to the • 2 allspice berries crème fraîche. Whisk • 1 star anise until stiff peaks form and • 1 carrot season with the lemon • 1 kohlrabi juice, salt and pepper. • 1 banana shallot mACKErEL Crème fraîChe • Good-quality • 200g crème fraîche mackerel fillets from a • 200g double cream local fish supplier. Ask • Juice of ½ lemon the fishmonger to fillet • Salt and pepper and V-bone the fish

1 For the pickling 1 to cook the mackerel, solution place the turn your grill to full and Beetroot tartar and No4 ricotta wine, vinegar and season the fillets with This zesty dish packs a powerful punch on flavour sugar in a small salt and pepper. Lightly saucepan. add the oil and place the fish on ServeS 4 2 Heat up to 90˚F and take bay leaf, allspice and a baking tray. Grill for a rICoTTA off the heat. add the lemon star anise. Heat until minute on each side – • 500ml whole milk juice, then stir and leave for the sugar has dissolved. a little longer if the fillets • 500ml double cream 20 minutes. 2 Remove from the heat are big. Don’t be scared • 2 pinches of Maldon Sea Salt 3 strain through a muslin so the and cover with clingfilm. if the skin blisters and • Juice of 3 lemons curds collect and the whey passes 3 Peel and slice the starts to blacken. through. Discard the whey and vegetables thinly. 2 Immediately remove BEETrooT TArTAr keep the ricotta in the fridge. Wash the shallot from the grill, dress with • 1kg raw beetroot 4 take the beetroot and boil for under cold water. the pickled vegetables • 20g cornichons 30 minutes until your knife goes 4 While the pickling and serve with a dollop • 20g capers easily through the middle. skin solution is still warm, of crème fraîche. • 1 banana shallot whilst warm and dice into cubes. add the vegetables. Recipe taken from The • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 5 Finely dice the cornichons, 5 store in an airtight Gurnard’s Head, St Ives • 1 tbsp tomato ketchup capers and shallot, then add • ½ tbsp Worcestershire sauce the mustard and sauces. Mix • ½ tsp Tabasco sauce into the diced beetroot. 6 For the salsa verde, finely SALSA VErDE chop the mint and parsley, • ½ bunch mint mix with the vinegar and • ½ bunch parsley mustard, season and add • 1 tsp red wine vinegar a slug of good olive oil. • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 7 Drizzle the salsa over the top of • 100ml olive oil the beetroot and ricotta. serve with croutons or crusty bread. 1 For the ricotta, add the milk to Recipe taken from No 4 the cream with 2 pinches of salt. restaurant, Weymouth

coastmagazine.co.uk 83 coast CORNWALL GUIDE

monkfish Wrapped in parma ham, with Creamed Confit CaBBaGe and Wild mushrooms Monkfish is my favourite fish to eat, and I think this is the best way to enjoy it!

• 200g savoy cabbage, shredded • 1 banana shallot • 2 cloves garlic, peeled • 2 carrots • 50ml duck fat • 100g mixed wild mushrooms, chopped • Salt and pepper • 100ml white wine • 200ml double cream • 150g monkfish • 2 slices Parma ham ‘We get a lot of our seafood from newlyn, because it’s a more sheltered • 1 lemon cut into wedges (1 to go into pan to cook harbour, which is always watered’ chef chris brooks, seadrift kitchen café with the monkfish and 1 to serve as required)

1 shred the cabbage, thinly strain off the duck fat. minutes until it is a 7 add a knob of butter and slice the shallot and garlic, 3 In another hot pan, add thick consistency. a wedge of lemon and place and grate the carrots. the chopped mushrooms 5 Lay 2 slices of Parma in the oven for 8-10 minutes 2 Melt the duck fat in a pan and sauté in olive oil and ham lengthways on a flat at 200˚c (fan). check the on a medium heat. sweat butter for about 2 minutes. surface. Wrap the monkfish fish is cooked through. off the shallot and garlic for 4 season with salt and in the ham, then season with 8 Plate the cabbage and 2 minutes. add the carrot pepper. add the white wine salt, pepper and olive oil. put the monkfish on the top, and sweat for a minute, and cabbage mixture, then 6 seal off all sides of the served with a lemon wedge. then add the cabbage and add the cream. Bring to the ham and monkfish in a Recipe taken from SeaDrift sweat for a minute more. boil to reduce for 5-6 hot pan of olive oil. Kitchen Café, Porthleven

Chestnut and Brandy semifreddo with ChoColate GanaChe This is a delicious dessert – it tastes like soft ice cream • 2 tins of chestnut 1 Mix the chestnut purée, 3 take out after an hour melted through. Leave purée (we use Merchant double cream, brandy and so it has the consistency the mixture to set. Gourmet) caster sugar in a blender of soft ice cream. 5 scoop it out with an • 300ml double cream and whizz until the mixture 4 to make the ganache, ice cream scoop and • 3 tbsp brandy is well combined. heat the cream in a serve on top of the • 100g caster sugar 2 Pour into a shallow saucepan, making sure chestnut base, topped flat tray or individual you don’t boil it. then chantilly cream. Ganache dishes. Line with clingfilm chop the dark chocolate Recipe taken from • 250ml double cream and put into the freezer into pieces and slowly stir Elsie Pinniger and Debbie • 400g dark chocolate until almost frozen. it into the cream until it is Warner’s Wine Club

84 coast coastmagazine.co.uk ReadeR offeR coast readers can buy Saltwater Kitchen Cookbook by Louise Searle and Hayley Spurway, with photographs by Mike Searle, for £15 (RRP £17) including free P&P (UK mainland only), by calling 07974 928 254. coast HOMES

out of the Blue How Jill Watson and Ben Tindall have lovingly restored a simple, wooden cabin set in a hidden cove in Berwickshire as a weekend, beachside retreat

Words Alison Gibb PhotograPhs Douglas Gibb

he blue wooden cabin belonging to Jill of important historical interest,’ Jill explains. Watson and Ben tindall stands on a Indeed, the area was a favoured setting for hidden cove, just north of the village 19th-century school of artists the Glasgow ofT cockburnspath in Berwickshire. the story Boys to spend their summers. goes that it originally belonged to a retired merchant sea captain – and it has been QuAlITY OF lIGHT restored with this historic detail in mind. simply What they have tried to create here is a cosy furnished with rustic furniture and nautical space in which to unwind, with interiors that accessories, it has the evocative atmosphere reflect the local area and the sea. the living of a ship’s interior. and with its position just room with windows on three sides is their above the beach, the views outside make it favourite – but the light quality here threw feel as though you are on the water. ‘You can up some challenges when they first began watch the sea, sky and harbour; fishing boats decorating, as paint colours they liked in town and birds from the warmth of the cabin,’ says did not work at the cabin. ‘colour works Jill, a sculptor in bronze, who spends weekends completely differently by the sea,’ says Jill. at the house with her architect husband. ‘this is due to reflecting light. Be prepared ‘the view is ever-changing,’ she adds. to change your mind about colour – we Jill and Ben – who are based just an hour had to make our choices when we were down away in Edinburgh – bought the cabin as here.’ Happily, the couple gained inspiration a retreat from city life back in 2009. Both from the many colourful fields of cabbages passionate conservationists, they have since and sprouts nearby – resulting in a bold, taken on responsibility for the preservation of organic palette of greens and blues. the whole of cove Harbour where the cabin the wooden floor has been left untreated so stands – saving it from development and that it looks as natural as possible. ‘the sand managing it for fishing and to preserve its brought in from the beach is swept out with a character. ‘there are just a few houses dotted broom,’ Ben points out. above the fireplace is around, but it is a well-known beauty spot and a large mirror within a shell-covered

86 coast coastmagazine.co.uk coast HOMES

LEFt and toP The Blue Cabin was the home of a former sea captain and has been restored with this historic detail in mind, using nautical finishings and rustic furniture. The organic blue palette was inspired by the surrounding fields of cabbages and sprouts aBoVE Sculptor Jill Watson and architect Ben Tindall retreat to the cabin for weekends away from busy city life in Edinburgh

coastmagazine.co.uk 87 coast coast HOMES

88 coast coastmagazine.co.uk coast HOMES

frame, which Ben made for the cabin out of shells collected from all over. there is a dog whelk from Hong Kong, along with razor shells, scallops and sea urchins from orkney. the mirror reflects the light from the sea and acts as another window in the room. Unusually for a seaside hut, the cabin is well-insulated and heats up in minutes. the hooded orkney chairs in front of the fire reinforce the feeling of shelter for the visitor. ‘the orkney chairs on either side of the wood-burning stove almost offer a holiday in themselves, especially if a storm is brewing outside,’ Jill says. orcadian farmers have made these chairs for their crofts for hundreds of years. originally crafted from driftwood, and set low to the ground to avoid the peaty smoke that inevitably rises, they have straw, woven backs, for comfort, and are often hooded to protect from draughts.

NAUTICAL BUT NICE a small opening in the panelling at the end of the living room leads into a tiny, but fully equipped kitchen. also timber-lined and painted the same blue as the living room, it has a window that looks out onto the hillside of grass and ferns. ‘From the living room you are aware of windows and daylight on three sides, but the linked kitchen is conveniently hidden from view,’ says Jill. the master bedroom, like the living room, looks out to sea and, when the window is open, you are able to hear the waves. It has a romantic box bed, designed by Ben, with kelp seaweed fretwork. Much like a ship’s cabin, every square inch of the room is used efficiently. there is a pretty wardrobe with two more seaweed cut-outs at the top and shelves on either side, plus a hidden cupboard with oPPosItE The dining two large internal shelves and a drawer under room looks out over the harbour, beach the bed. In the timber-lined room everything is and sea. ‘You become painted a strong green, which works perfectly mesmerised by the in this location. ‘the colours we have chosen horizon,’ says Jill toP Hooded Orkney here, we would not have dreamed of using in chairs in front of the Edinburgh,’ confirms Jill. fire, used by Orcadian Dotted about are many books of interest farmers for their crofts hundreds of years ago, and relevance to the area: tomes on local reinforce the feeling history and the sea as well as a few of shelter from the miscellaneous titles about faraway places. elements aBoVE Brass door handles, made ‘the pictures on the walls are to remind us by Jill RIGHt The cosy of the sea captain and his travels,’ Jill adds. kitchen is timber-lined these include a large print of Philadelphia and painted in the same blue as the living room with ships and boats on the waterfront,

coastmagazine.co.uk 89 coast coast HOMES

a fisherman’s portrait, and a specially commissioned woodcut print by Kathleen Lindsley from the Isle of skye. there are long, framed prints, too, of drawings of nearby siccar Point, a rocky headland, and the location of James Hutton’s theory of Unconformity, discovered in 1788.

THOROUGHLY INSPIRED the garden is a work in progress. ‘Wild but controlled’ are Jill’s exact words. she has started planting a raised bed for salads and herbs for cooking. More importantly, Jill finds the surrounding landscape has a big influence on her work – and has a new-found interest in seaweed as a result. ‘something I have learned, which should not have been a surprise, is that seaweed changes hugely throughout the year, like any land plant. sketching and examining the different seaweeds in the harbour at low tide over a calendar year, I noticed that they follow the land seasons; coming to life with new growth in the spring and swelling up with fruits and seeds in the summer.’ Jill has used this observation as a reference point for the beautiful bronze hooks and handles that she has designed for the cabin’s interior. the history of the area has also been a source of fascination. Jill was commissioned to create a memorial commemorating what is believed to be Britain’s worst fishing disaster, when 189 men died off Eyemouth in a single afternoon in 1881. Jill has installed a series of bronze figures in four of the communities affected (cove, st abbs, Eyemouth and Burnmouth) representing the families of those that perished. Despite their busy lives in the scottish oPPosItE Jill takes in capital, the pair are able to stay at their the view across the bolthole often, and spend weekends taking water. ‘Sitting on the terrace in the sunshine restorative walks along nearby tyninghame is sheer bliss,’ she Beach to blow away the cobwebs. When says toP aND LEFt they are not here, they rent out the property The romantic box bed in the bedroom was as a retreat for other people to enjoy. Just designed by Ben with spending time at the cabin is relaxing and kelp seaweed fretwork, enriching, they say. ‘sitting on the terrace in and painted in a vibrant green colour sunshine is sheer bliss, watching the harbour, beach and sea,’ confirms Jill. ‘You become mesmerised by the horizon.’

The Blue Cabin is available to let through bluecabinbythesea.co.uk. See jillwatsonstudio.co.uk and benjamintindallarchitects.co.uk.

90 coast coastmagazine.co.uk coast HOMES

JILL AND BEN’S WEEKEND IN BERWICKSHIRE

FAVOURITE SHOP Pease Bay is infamous. The Buttercup Studio in The Coast 2 Coast Surf Dunbar (01368 255138). School is located in Dunbar It is impossible to come and can give lessons to out empty handed. There novices and experienced is always something you surfers (07971 990361, absolutely need. They love c2csurfschool.com). the things they sell and FOR LIVE MUSIC are really welcoming. Audio Soup in Duns is BEST CAFÉ a three-day event in The Garden Path café July. There’s music, food, in Dunbar is absolutely hopefully sunshine, and brilliant – the food is freshly it’s a great place to hear cooked and reasonably indie and dance music priced, plus there is an (audiosoupfestival.co.uk). adventure playground TOP WALK right beside it, so parents The best walk in the area is can enjoy a coffee along Tyninghame Beach undisturbed (01368 865746, – which is a deserted, gardenpathcafe.co.uk). white, sandy beach. There GO SURFING are no shops or cafés for This stretch of coast is miles, so you can take a ideal for surﬁ ng – nearby picnic or just enjoy the walk.

coastmagazine.co.uk 91 COAST coast TRAVEL

92 coast coastmagazine.co.uk Weekend in… RAVENGLASS From husky racing and hawk displays to a haunted castle and the steam railway, there’s plenty to do for all the family in this charming seaside village on the edge of the Lake District

coastmagazine.co.uk 93 coast o large do ‘the Lakes’ loom, course, the Lakes themselves when you mention Cumbria, are only a short drive away. many people seem to forget it’s a county with a coastline SATURDAY AM Stoo. The small village of Ravenglass is where the Western HUSKY FUN Lake District meets the Irish Sea 10AM The sky is a soft pearly and it is the only coastal village grey and the water within the Lake District National still as I greet Sonia, founder blur and we’re mud-spattered Park. It lies at the mouth of three of Horse & Husky on the beach but elated as we eventually arrive rivers and the nearby Drigg Dunes at Ravenglass. ‘Can you ride back at Sonia’s van. Luna and are an important nature reserve, a bike?’ she asks. I sheepishly Ice have well-earned treats, home to a wide variety of rare admit I haven’t ridden since the while I proudly receive my insects, wildfl owers and natterjack 1990s. Here’s hoping there’s musher’s certifi cate. toads. The scenery on the drive some truth in that saying about Sessions from £70 for two to Ravenglass from any direction never forgetting… hours – one or two people can is spectacular, with Muncaster A tricycle-like contraption is participate (01229 718488, Castle towering above as you pulled by two Siberian huskies, ABOVE horseandhusky.com). Anne-Claire come down into the village itself. the female Luna leading. ‘No Heels spent a Ravenglass is an ideal base alpha male in this pack!’ jokes fi ne weekend fi lled with food SATURDAY PM for exploring this relatively quiet, Sonia. Both are friendly but and fresh air in overlooked part of the coast. mostly just straining to get going. Ravenglass TO THE CASTLE It has a 19th-century steam Sonia advises to keep my hands 2PM After a hasty shower railway running from the village over the brakes at all times. To and snack at our up to Eskdale, at the foot of the command these high-energy accommodation, the Inn at Scafell range, England’s highest dogs, tone of voice matters Ravenglass, we head to Muncaster mountains. The sand-and-shingle – higher to move forward, lower Castle, a mile above the village. beaches of St Bees, Silecroft and to keep pace. I practise starting, At the onsite Hawk & Owl Centre ALAMY, CUMBRIA TOURISM CUMBRIA ALAMY, Haverigg are close by and if you’re stopping and turning on the two knowledgeable guides interested in wildlife, you’ll fi nd beach until the tide comes in and introduce kestrels, kites, a falcon seabirds, birds of prey, butterfl ies, we move to the Eskdale Trail. The named Asbo, and the very cute

PHOTOGRAPHS squirrels and deer here. And of countryside passes in a green Linford and Christie, a tiny pair of

94 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk panoramic fell views. The Castle water, seabirds silhouetted may be closed on Saturdays to against the sunset and changing host weddings (01229 717614, skies above the estuary. muncaster.co.uk). Next on our itinerary are the remains of the Ravenglass’s TODAY’S CATCH Roman bathhouse. The Romans 7PM The Inn at Ravenglass arrived here around AD120, drawn prides itself on locally to the area because of its natural landed, sustainably sourced fi sh harbour. When we stop by what’s and seafood. The menu has left of the bathhouse, it’s surreal tasting notes on each fi sh and to think of Roman soldiers here messages from the fi shermen all those years ago, in one of who supply them. My mouth the most far-fl ung parts of their burrowing owls strutting about in CLOCKWISE waters as I read the specials. mighty empire. We fi gure they’d FROM FAR LEFT cartoon-like fashion. Vultures A walk along The crab cake starter with sweet be as impressed as we are that swoop above our heads to a the River Esk chilli sauce is so artistic I almost some of their walls still stand. soundtrack of classical music – follows wooded feel guilty tucking in. Almost… paths and ravines; ‘I hope everyone knows how to husky-sledding My main course of sea bream FULL STEAM duck!’ says our guide, cheerfully. on the beach on chorizo and mussel risotto, 11A M AHEAD at Ravenglass; The display over, we tour the Muncaster Castle with samphire and scallops, The Ravenglass & castle, said to be one of Britain’s is said to be the is delicious (01229 717230, Eskdale Steam Railway is one of most haunted. One room is lined most haunted theinnatravenglass.co.uk). the oldest and longest narrow in Britain; the with ancestral portraits of the Ravenglass & gauge railways in the world, running Penningtons, who have owned Eskdale Steam from the coast up to Eskdale. Railway runs from SUNDAY AM the estate since 1208. The castle the coast up to We sit in an open carriage and certainly has a colourful history. Eskdale; the ruins ART AND let the locomotive pull us seven Henry VI sheltered here during of the Ravenglass 10AM ROMAN RUINS miles inland. There’s something Roman bathhouse; the Wars of the Roses, while a linocut print of Breakfast is served at magical about steaming through Muncaster’s 16th-century jester, ringed plovers the Inn’s bigger sister hotel The hidden valleys on this little train, silhouetted Tom Fool, gave us the word against the Pennington, a couple of doors with the smell of coal, billowing tomfoolery. Events are held sunset by Mark down. Before leaving, I stop to clouds of steam and the peal of A Pearce; The throughout the year and you can Hawk & Owl examine the eye-catching art the whistle transporting us to a book overnight ghost stays too. Centre, within adorning the walls leading to the bygone era. A childlike joy spreads But we’re content to simply drink the gardens reception and the bar. The linocut among the chatting passengers of Muncaster in all the history and beauty, Castle, runs prints are by a Ravenglass-based as we head along the estuary, exploring the great hall, the library regular displays artist and feature local seascapes where you can see oystercatchers and the Terrace Walk, with its with depictions of light dancing on and curlews, then up into green

coastmagazine.co.uk 95 COAST NEED to KNOW

STAY AT… THE PENNINGTON HOTELS & INNS group gorges and past fi elds of offers a variety of Herdwick sheep hemmed in by accommodation in the dry stone walls (01229 717171, Ravenglass area, from ravenglass-railway.co.uk). hotels to self-catering cottages. coast stayed at the Inn at Ravenglass, SUNDAY PM which is right in the A GLORIOUS village and offers two 12PM STROLL luxurious suites looking out on the estuary of We arrive at the end of the rivers Esk, Mite and the line in Dalegarth, the station Irt. It’s all in the detail that serves a small village called waterfall, dropping into a dark TOP The Stanley here, from the jar of Boot. Passing a 12th-century pool 60ft below. The train having Ghyll waterfall near Dalegarth cookies to the Thierry church, we meander along one been packed with walkers, we drops into a dark Mugler toiletries. The of the many streams and head are thrilled to have this view to pool 60ft below inn serves local produce ABOVE A buttery into the trees following our map ourselves, before walking back prawn dish such as Cumberland and the way markers. The down the ravine to the station. from the Inn sausages and Manx scenery is glorious and we keep at Ravenglass kippers, as well as BELOW LEFT our eyes peeled for red squirrels. TRAIN FARE A view of fi shing CAMRA award-winning Everywhere is an earthy smell; 2PM Back at Dalegarth boats from the real ales. From £100 per hotel’s window the rocks and fallen trees are we drop into Fellbites night (01229 717230, theinnatravenglass.co.uk, covered with green moss like café to have lunch before our penningtonhotels.co.uk). velvet, giving the landscape an return journey. I tuck into freshly ancient, Lord of the Rings feel. made sandwiches and a lemon We keep climbing, then round a crumble slice. Browsing the HOW TO corner and suddenly before us station gift shop afterwards, GET THERE is the mighty Stanley Ghyll I settle on a vintage-style poster From the M6, various as my souvenir. Then it’s time to A-roads lead through the board the train, this time pulled Lake District National by an engine called Northern Park to the A595 to Ravenglass. It takes 2hrs Rock. Back in Ravenglass we by car to Ravenglass change out of muddy boots from Manchester, and and head for the car, but not 3hrs from Liverpool, before taking one last look at Leeds or Newcastle the view from the hotel. The upon Tyne. Ravenglass tide has drawn out, leaving is on the rail line from ALAMY fi shing boats to fl oat on sand Carlisle to Barrow-in- and the birds to busy themselves Furness. For trains, in the mud. It’s a beautiful see northernrail.org.

conclusion to our weekend. PHOTOGRAPHS

96 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk Sandbanks Hotel coast HISTORY

MUSIC a t SEA From Benjamin Britten to the Beatles, musicians of all genres have drawn on the unique sounds of coastal environments. Cultural historian Anna Maria Barry investigates this special link

98 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk coast HISTORY

t’s the Last Night of the Proms. The atmosphere inside the Royal Albert Hall is electric throughout the evening. But there’s one song above all others Ithat gets everyone in the audience on their feet, wildly waving fl ags as they sing – mostly – in unison: ‘Rule Britannia, Britannia rule the waves!’ We are a nation that is proud of our maritime tradition and so it perhaps shouldn’t come as a surprise that during what many would call the highlight of the musical year, we are most roused by a song evoking this rich heritage. For centuries the sea has been a muse for British music. From salt-of-the-earth sailors to celebrated composers, many have translated the sounds of British waters and shorelines into catchy ditties and magnifi cent melodies. FIGHTING NAPOLEON ON THE STAGE Rule Britannia forms part of the ‘Fantasia on ‘ hasr British Sea Songs’, often played at the Last Night tbt t tuo of the Proms. Many of these were created in the 18th century in the run-up to and during the t s a a Napoleonic Wars, when the crusade against at po c France saw a swell of popular patriotism. Britain’s brave sailors were celebrated in a seemingly ABOVE Charles co-ordination, such as hauling anchors. Led by a endless range of musical entertainments. Incledon’s designated ‘shantyman’, shanties were performed trademark One of the most famous interpreters of sailor Ballad The in a ‘call and response’ form. ‘Long-haul’ shanties songs in this period was Charles Incledon, a Storm recounts were designed for pulling a rope over an extended colourful Cornish tenor who was infamous for a shipwreck period of time, with the men hauling the rope once from which a his love of women and alcohol. Charles had sailor prays or twice per verse. A ‘short-haul’ shanty, on the served in the Navy himself and often performed for salvation other hand, accompanied a quicker hauling job in a sailor’s uniform. His performances were and the tune refl ected this. hugely popular with audiences, who saw him Seamen brought these songs back to shore as an authentic ‘Jack Tar’ – the affectionate with them and soon lyrics such as ‘What shall nickname given to British seamen at the time. we do with a drunken sailor?’ – a chorus line The Storm – Charles’ trademark ballad – from a short-haul shanty – were leaving the vividly recounts a shipwreck from which a sailor mouths of landlubbers too. These days, sea prays for salvation. It is easy to imagine the shanties have been enjoying a lively revival, helped dramatic power of lines such as: along by the growing popularity of folk music. Shanty festivals have sprung up all over Britain, While o’er the Ship wild waves are beating, alongside community initiatives aimed at We for Wives and Children mourn, preserving this rich musical tradition. Alass! from hence there’s no retreating, ‘Secret Shore’, a project in Sussex that secured Alass from hence there’s no return. £50,600 of funding from the Heritage Lottery Fund, is keeping sea songs and shanties alive SONGS ON THE HIGH SEAS through free workshops in Shoreham and Music inspired by the sea was also performed Littlehampton, led by experienced teachers such at sea. Long before the stages of London were as Chris Hare. Chris explains, ‘Shanties are still graced with rousing maritime choruses, the relevant today because they talk to us of the shanty was sung out as sailors laboured on struggle against adversity and the power of deck. These songs helped synchronise the comradeship. Singing these songs fosters a mood movements of men performing tasks that required that is hard to describe. Songs telling of the end of

coastmagazine.co.uk 99 COAST coast HISTORY

‘ oaMalvc y as tm tg,d g,tls g

a long voyage and the return to port seem to ABOVE The With sticks they steer and promenade speak as much about life as they do about the popular song the pier to give the boys a treat Seaside incidentals of seafaring.’ Around 100 people have Girls was signed up for the ‘Secret Shore’ workshops so far; immortalised The musical image of the sea as a place for proof of the shanty’s enduring appeal. in James good cheer continued into the second half of the Joyce’s Ulysses where he talks 20th century, with bands such as The Beatles MUSIC HALLS TO MEGASTARS about girls scoring hits with the lines ‘I’d like to be under the By the Victorian and Edwardian eras, the railways promenading sea’ (Octopus’ Garden) and ‘So we sailed up to on Margate Pier had opened the coast to more people than ever the sun, till we found the sea of green, and we before and the seaside had come to be associated lived beneath the waves’ (Yellow Submarine). with fun times. This was reﬂ ected in the music played in resorts such as Brighton, Blackpool and COMPOSERS ON THE COAST Southend, where ditties such as ‘I Do Like To Be Alongside the popular tradition of seaside Beside The Seaside’ rang out in the crowded music music, the British coast has long excited classical halls. As a nascent professional music industry composers. At Fingal’s Cave on the Isle of developed in the early 20th century and the ﬁ rst Staffa in the Scottish Hebrides, the waves commercial gramophone records were sold, these crash against basalt columns and echo off the tunes came to be appreciated by a wide audience. naturally arched roof. The atmospheric sea One popular song of the era, Seaside Girls, was cave proved such an inspiration for German even immortalised by James Joyce who mentioned composer Felix Mendelssohn when he visited it several times in his seminal modernist novel in 1829 that he immediately wrote to his sister, Ulysses. Its saucy lyrics included: including a couple of lines of music in his letter. He told her: ‘In order to make you understand Down at Margate looking very charming how extraordinarily the Hebrides affected me, you are sure to meet I send you the following, which came into my Those girls, dear girls, those lovely seaside girls head there.’ These lines became the opening

100 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk coast HISTORY

phrase of his celebrated Hebrides Overture. After a walking holiday in Cornwall in 1886, composer, suffragette and OBE Ethel Smyth was HOW TO ENJOY driven to compose The Wreckers, an opera set in COASTAL MUSIC a Cornish wrecking community which told a tale of love, loss and betrayal. When the opera premièred SEA SHANTY FESTIVALS in Leipzig in 1906, it received 16 curtain calls. Falmouth International Sea Shanty Festival Another opera, Peter Grimes – regarded by (falmouthseashanty.co.uk), one of the some as the greatest English opera ever written biggest maritime music festivals in Europe, – tells the tragic story of the fi sherman Peter is held annually in June and sees over Grimes, who is persecuted and cast out of his 40 acts perform 250 hours of shanties community. Set in Aldeburgh and composed in over one weekend. The Liverpool Sea 1945 by its most famous resident, Benjamin Shanty Festival (seashantyliverpool.co.uk) Britten, the opera includes the famous Four Sea and Harwich International Sea Shanty Interludes, which are often performed separately Festival (harwichshantyfestival.co.uk) as a self-contained orchestral suite. Both musical are held in October, while Fisherman’s works undeniably draw on the sounds Britten Friends – a group that has performed would hear on his daily walks along the beach: at Glastonbury and released albums – the waves rumbling over the shingle, the wind perform on the beach at Port Isaac in whistling through the fi shing boats. Cornwall in the summer months. Today, another grand coastal oeuvre is being created through the National Trust’s ‘Sound of our SECRET SHORES Shores’ project. Asked to record their favourite To fi nd out more about the Sussex-based seaside sounds, members of the public captured ‘Secret Shore’ project with its free workshops a library’s worth of audio clips, ranging from ferries on coastal songs, visit southdownssociety. in the fog to crying gulls and snorting seals, taken org.uk. Workshops in Littlehampton and from all across the UK. This aural archive will Shoreham began in September 2015 and be transformed by Martyn Ware, a musician, run through until March 2016. There will also producer and founding member of the Human BELOW Fingal’s be a workshop in Brighton later in 2016. At League, into an original, 20-minute-long piece Cave on the the completion of the project, a massed Isle of Staffa of music, released in February 2016. inspired Felix choir of those who have learnt the songs will Styles, instruments, methods and melodies may Mendelssohn perform them and their singing will be have changed over the centuries but the sea has to compose recorded. A CD will later be released with a his celebrated remained, and will no doubt continue to be, a Hebrides booklet detailing the history of the songs. constant stimulus for great British music. Overture BRITTEN’S PROMS First founded in 1948 by Benjamin Britten, the Aldeburgh Festival (aldeburgh.co.uk) sees the world’s leading musicians descend on the Suffolk coast for a programme of classical music, opera and art. While most of the action is centred around the Snape Maltings Concert Hall, there’s also an open-air stage on the beach, with free lunchtime music.

SOUND OF OUR SHORES To ﬁ nd out more about the National Trust’s ‘Sound of our Shores’ project and Human League founder Martyn Ware’s composition inspired by the project, visit nationaltrust.org.uk. ILLUSTRATIONS ALAMY ILLUSTRATIONS

coastmagazine.co.uk 101 COAST

coast ACTIVE

TRY IT NOW WILLOW SCULPTING in West Sussex Learn how to make exquisite objects for your garden and home using only your hands and natural materials WORDS Gabrielle Jaffe

efore the age of James – a poet best known for design but the basic techniques mechanisation, we relied his patronage of artists including are all the same.’ on simple techniques Salvador Dali – who inherited the Now all eight pupils are here and natural resources West Dean Estate from his father. – most local but some having to B create objects of great use Since the college was founded come as far as Ireland – Dominic and great beauty. From lobster in 1971, it has grown to offer ushers us into the workshop. pots to fancy garden sculptures, HAVING A GO courses from multi-year diplomas Pulling back a damp towel, he items made with age-old Gabrielle Jaffe to week-long programmes and reveals the materials we’ll be learned how to weaving techniques can still make objects one-day workshops. Equipped working with, explaining that to be found across the country. out of willow with a pottery, forge, ﬁ ne-metals ensure the willow is pliable, it But how many of us know how at West Dean workshop and studios aplenty, has been soaked in water for College (below) to craft them ourselves? West Dean covers creative several days. He shows us the Although these beautiful subjects as diverse as ‘Making works of artisanship can look your own wedding rings’, ‘Letter complicated, anyone can learn cutting in slate’, ‘Drawing in ASK the PRO how to make them. You just the garden’ and ‘Traditional Trained at the have to have time, patience – leatherwork’ – all taught by City & Guilds, and the right teacher. That’s expert tutors. Among the myriad Dominic where places like West Dean of classes available are regular Parrette has College come in. Set a few miles willow work courses, where worked with north of Chichester’s natural students learn to create willow for over 15 years. harbour, the verdant 6,350-acre everything from sculptural animal ‘I grow and harvest a lot West Dean Estate is home to forms to baskets and chairs. of my own willow. There’s famous public gardens and a something special about centre of learning specialising in 9AM A HISTORIC CRAFT seeing the cycle of willow conservation and heritage crafts. Having stayed over at the growing back again – you’re Both are the legacy of Edward college the night before – more in touch with the enjoying a hot chocolate by seasons. Working with the grand ﬁ replace in the Oak natural materials means Room before heading to bed – that no two pieces will ever I wake up refreshed and raring be the same. It’s the quirks to learn. As we wait for all the of each piece of willow that students to arrive, teacher make it exciting to work with. Dominic Parrette informs us People nowadays often that the craft of willow-weaving buy baskets that have been dates back thousands of years: made abroad but these ‘If you look at archaeological skills haven’t been lost in this sites from the Romans, you’ll country yet. It’s important see what we’re doing is nothing to keep this heritage going.’

PHOTOGRAPHS GABRIELLE JAFFE new. We might add modern

coastmagazine.co.uk 103 COAST ‘brown’ willow, with the bark aBoVE A wreath neatening off the overhanging strands up and around it like was the first still on, and the ‘buff’ willow thing students bits with a pair of secateurs, a helter-skelter. that’s been boiled and stripped learned how to before adding the final flourishes Less confident, I choose to of its bark. Buff dries out make aBoVE, of holly, ivy and ribbons. make a decorative sphere. First, RIGHt Instructor quicker but holds more firmly Dominic showed Next, we graduate to slightly I create three basic wreaths, in place, so is best for the more everyone the more complex objects: a star slotting them together along different types complicated, sculptural pieces. of willow they’d made with five soft bends, and three dimensions to make the be working with a spiral hanging decoration, skeleton for my ball. Working 9.30AM STARS & STRIPS on the course crafted using a wooden block with buff willow, which gives a oPPosItE the 6ft, 4ft and 3ft strips we’ll Gabrielle (top and a plaiting technique similar cleaner finish, I add more to fill in be using have come from left) and her to methods used to make corn the gaps. Initially, it looks a mess. course mates somerset, the main growing created holly dollies at country fairs. But after an hour, it all comes area in the UK. Before we get wreaths, together and I’m really impressed our hands on them, Dominic hanging stars, with this structure. I would have woven fish and 1PM GARDEN DELIGHTS directs our attention to a table a spiral bell We break for lunch and I plump readily forked out money for it laid out with stars, wreaths, decoration; one for a hearty dishful of moussaka if I’d seen it in a design store. student even woven fish and other decorative tried her hand from the buffet. stomach sated, We’ve a little time left, so pieces. We have the option of at making an I use the rest of the hour to Dominic shows me how to make obelisk for making any and all of these the garden explore West Dean’s magnificent a fish, bending a larger branch objects today. grounds – making sure to look and weaving it together with First, Dominic instructs us out for the 100ft Edwardian smaller branches in figure-of- on how to make a wreath, so he pergola, the walled garden eight strokes. By the time can make sure we’ve got down and the flower-filled Victorian 5pm rolls round, I can’t believe the basics. taking two branches glasshouses. how many willow makes I’ve each, we match the thin end, or Remembering what Dominic magicked up in one day. I thank ‘tip’, of one, with the thicker end, had said earlier – that you don’t Dominic for showing me how or ‘butt’, of another. then we need to use only willow; any these beautiful objects can be twist one round the other and similar hedge branches can be made using historic techniques bend the ends together to collected fresh on country walks – and all-natural materials. create the wreath shape. ‘It’s – I start looking at the different easier if you keep your hands trees and bushes, imagining 5.30PM INTO THE SUNSET stretched out and pointing what I’d make from them. Giant carefully placing everything I’ve downwards,’ Dominic tells us. sculptures dotted around the made into my car, I head out ‘I’m beginning to sound a bit like lawns provide further inspiration. along the college’s long driveway. a yoga instructor,’ he laughs. Following the surrounding We use no glue, wire, or 2PM DEcORATIvE DESIGN countryside lanes, I reach strings. amazingly, it’s simply the Back inside, we’re going to work chichester Harbour’s Dell Quay tension of branch against branch on bigger projects this afternoon. just as the sun is setting. and that holds everything in place. some students opt to make though I’m exhausted from my We weave in more branches garden obelisks, complex but day of grappling with the willow, and it’s satisfying to watch stunning objects for growing I can’t help but smile as I gaze the wreath slowly thickening. plants. they fashion wigwam- out at sailing boats silhouetted soon it’s complete and we’re shaped structures and weave against the reddening sky.

104 coast coastmagazine.co.uk coast ACTIVE need to know

HOW TO GET STARTED coast attended a one-day workshop with Dominic Parrette. Willow courses at West Dean vary throughout the year and are led by a range of tutors. Dominic is holding a two-day ‘Willow work for the garden’ from 7-9 March, while Mary Butcher is teaching the two-day ‘Willow basketmaking for beginners’ from 11-13 March. Each course costs £232. All materials, tools and lunch are provided. Visit westdean.org.uk to book or call 01243 818300. To find out more about Dominic’s work, see sussexwillow.co.uk.

HOW TO GET THERE By car, West Dean is situated on the A286 between Chichester and Midhurst, off the A27, which can be reached from the A3 and the M27. By bus, the number 60 from Chichester and Midhurst stops close to the West Dean Gardens entrance. Find a timetable at stagecoachbus.com or call 0845 121 0190.

WHERE TO STAY Accommodation is available at the college. Rooms from £112 per person, including breakfast and dinner.

coastmagazine.co.uk 105 coast coast CRAFTS Make your own MARBLED VASE get ready for spring flowers and give tired, old containers a beautiful makeover with this easy technique WoRDs & PHotogRaPHs Shore Cottage Studio

e love grouping similar HAT YOU NEED: vases together with W W informal blooms for a • Plain vases, milk bottles fresh spring feel. these very simple or similar vessels floral arrangements look lovely in a decorated vase. We have come • Cocktail stick across an easy way of adding a • Plastic container for water free-form pattern to a plain vase, (ice cream tub or similar) inspired by water and waves. the • Nail varnish watercolour effect is applied using a nail-varnish marbling technique. You will probably have all of the requisite items around the house so Fill your container with warm water Use a cocktail stick to break this is a craft that is super easy to try. and add one or two drops of the surface of the drop and For your first attempt at marbling 1varnish to the surface. 2 encourage it to spread out. try using an inexpensive vase or even a milk bottle to experiment. We have found using warm water to float your nail varnish allows you a longer working time before the varnish sets. try adding colours one at a time or several drops at once and swirling to combine them. Vases can also be dipped several times to layer up more colour gradually. Experiment with dipping the bottom of the vases or rolling the sides through Roll the vase along the surface sit the vase on a layer of kitchen the colour for a different look. of the water, picking up the thin paper to dry slowly – don’t rub, the nail varnish will dry slowly onto 3 layer of varnish as you go. 4 blot, or touch until dry. the vase but is easily disturbed as it sets, so do take care not to wrinkle or damage the pattern. However, this can be an advantage as any smudges can be wiped away with kitchen paper immediately after dipping. Nail varnish remover will get rid of any smudges after the varnish has set. once dry the vase can be used as normal but should be hand-washed as it will not be dishwasher safe.

106 coast coastmagazine.co.uk ABOUT SHORE COTTAGE STUDIO Shore Cottage Studio consists of three generations of artists living and working on the Wirral Peninsula. They run short creative courses in fused glass, photography, textiles and laser-etching, taking inspiration from their surroundings. They also exhibit their work and produce commissions. Oh, and there’s usually cake. You can book a course or commission a piece from Shore Cottage on their website (0151 648 6581, shorecottagestudio.com).

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Growing up on the gardener Kent coast, Frances has the sea in her blood. a presenter on ItV’s coast columnist advises on the best Love Your Garden, she Frances Tophill studied horticulture at the bulbs and perennials to fill your garden with early spring colour Royal Botanic Garden arch is a time when we really get our first to be, if not the King of the bulbs, certainly a in Edinburgh and is the taste of spring in the garden. For me, and member of the high court. the vivid blues, deep author of First-Time Mfor many other gardeners, spring means purples, candy pinks and primrose yellows are Gardener (Kyle Books). bulbs. By March, this vibrant, colourful assault will not only stunning but also provide a sweet scent, she now lives on the be in full swing. the March of the bulbs perhaps? designed to draw in those brave, early bees. south Devon coast and For those of us who garden by the sea, the bulb If a hyacinth is a courtier, then the princess is the works on her own plot is our best friend: planted in the autumn, flowering delicate Ipheion. this beautiful, little bulb thrives by and community projects. in the earliest part of the year, full of colour and the sea and has naturalised on the coasts of Britain francestophill.com often full of scent. Many people can leave bulbs despite hailing from south america. It has stellate (with the exception of tulips) for decades in the (star-like) flowers in bright whites and pale blues. ground, with an ever-strengthening display year after year. sadly, a coastal position renders that PICK OF THE BUNCH difficult. often the salty conditions make bulbs of course the King of the March bulbs, or the really fight for life and this battle will weaken them general that leads this offensive, has to be the as the years go on. No need to despair though, daffodil. Every year it brightens our verges with flanks bulbs offer maximum colour for minimum cost, of bright yellow. But there’s more to this old favourite. meaning you can add to the display every year. White narcissi for instance, are delicate and headily scented and the Pheasant’s-eye range too, offers ‘For those of us who gardEN By BULBS & BEES something a little different. and what better plant so let’s get down to to grow for the ideal mother’s day bouquet? THE SEa, the bulb is our BEST practicalities: what It’s not all about bulbs though; I can get carried are the best bulbs away. Let’s not forget those evergreen perennials FrIENd: planted in the aUTUmN, for early spring? Well that throw up the earliest flowers. the Euphorbias flowering in theEarLIEST they may not be the and the Bergenias for example give brilliant, almost most fashionable, fluorescent early colour. I say, let them come. Bring ParT OF THE yEar’ but the hyacinth has on the flowers and bring on the colours.

coastmagazine.co.uk 109 coast

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE • WALK of the MONTH A lonely and very beautiful corner of Kent’s ‘forgotten’ island, featuring an early Norman church and a superb birdwatching shore BY Christopher Somerville

WHILE YOU Walk route Roads

ARE THERE Muswell Manor ST THOMAS’ LEYSDOWN CP Country Club HIGHLIGHTS? CHURCH; AVIATION HISTORY; Hamlet of BIRDWATCHING ON THAMES Shellness AND SWALE ESTUARIES Brewers (TAKE THE BINOCULARS!) Hill Ferry FOR THE KIDS? House Inn Sayes BEACH AT SHELLNESS Court

SWALE CHANNEL START St. Thomas’ Church NEED TO KNOW

GETTING THERE: M2 (Jct 5); A249 (‘Sheerness’) on to Isle of Sheppey; B2231; right on minor road to Sayes Court and Ferry House Inn. LANDSCAPE: Flat fi elds and meadows, cockleshell beach, mudfl ats and sea. REFUELLING OPTIONS: Ferry House Inn, Harty Ferry Road ME12 4BQ (01795 510214, theferryhouseinn. co.uk; you’d be wise to book) (KENT) – popular, cheerful pub ISLE OF SHEPPEY on the Swale Estuary. DISTANCE 6 MILES TIME 3 HOURS DIFFICULTY OS MAPS Explorer 149 ‘Sittingbourne & Faversham’, Landranger 178 ‘Thames STARTING POINT big open fi elds towards and the crunchy Estuary’. Setting off from the Muswell Manor. Before cockleshell beach at Ferry House Inn Ferry House Inn down the First World War, Shellness. Return via PARKING: 1 (please give inn your custom). at the southeast tip of the pioneer airmen went the seawall path along the Isle of Sheppey, follow spluttering in their Swale Estuary, where PUBLIC TOILETS: Beside Ferry House Inn. the footpath northeast stringbag biplanes across brent geese and swift to St Thomas’ Church, these grazing marshes, little waders congregate. which is a beautiful little confi dent of a soft Norman building. crash-landing. FERRY HOUSE INN STRINGBAG SHELLNESS 4 At the end of the COUNTRY Out at the coast, lane stands the venerable 2 A fi eld path leads 3turn right along Ferry House Inn, truly from Sayes Court the broad Thames welcoming on a mad Cottages beside the Estuary to reach the March day with its

MAP BASED ON ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPPING © CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY MEDIA. PHOTOGRAPHS ALAMY THIS MAP IS A GUIDE ONLY church northeast across old coastguard cottages crackling log ﬁ res. YOUR coast elthy VIEWS, NEWS & REVIEWS oa c

TAR facebook HAPPY DAYS SETTER L This month on Facebook you talk I’m a big fan of your mag about your addictions to the sea…

and had been planning a trip Sally Stevens It has to be around the British shores with Porthleven with its ﬁ shing harbour, my husband, when I fell ill. good mix of places to eat, sandy While in hospital I spent many beach and pretty cottages. Ann Mullarkey No doubt about it weeks reading coast, which helped me to re-live our – Mousehole in Cornwall… always. happy times away together. I’m better now and looking Rebecca Botallack Kynance forward to taking inspiration from all your great stories Cove, Mullion Cove, Zennor, and going on that much-needed holiday! Lynda Fuller, Kent St Agnes Heritage Coast, Boscastle and St Ives (out of season ), along with a long walk from Sennen Cove to Land’s End STAR PRIZE and beyond on a beautiful day. This month our star letter wins a pair of ﬂ oral wellies from Joules, worth £39.95 (joules.com). twitter

What you Tweeted… we visit the coast. So ﬁ shmongers and GRATEFUL GREETINGS @Joannebkaar Cheers to After receiving an email newsletter from supermarkets, pull your claws out @coastmag for the fantastic feature coast with lots of interesting features, and start making crab more available. on my parents’ Caithness clifftop one in particular appealed: the ‘One and Ira Jackson eco-house in January 2016 issue. All’ exhibition, ‘a voyage through sight, @2crail The January 2016 sound and sea’, at Somerset House in @coastmag is packed full of articles London. I went and loved it. It brought OG of the MONTH about sustainability. Particularly back many memories, not just from the D enjoying the @mcsuk mention summer, but from my childhood growing on the beach-clean campaigns. up in Suffolk close to the coast. Thank @a_lazy_sunday @coastmag I live you for telling me about this exhibition. by the sea. I have done for a long Leigh Richards long time. A sign hangs above my door that says, ‘By the sea, A CALL FOR FRESH CRABS all worries wash away.’ I read your article on crabs which said @ncvwebb Splendid to see Paul there’s little demand for this crustacean Sanders @Wiggys Long-exposure in the UK, and most of the UK catch & Mindfulness workshops in is exported. I get so frustrated when I January 2016 @coastmag. Lovely hear this, that the UK market doesn’t eat bloke! ‘Life is better by the sea.’ fresh crab. The reason is because you @MoogleDoo @alexﬁ sherwords Grace, the German Wirehaired just organising a trip to #Ullapool can’t buy fresh crab in the UK, except Pointer, loves nothing more than after seeing it in @coastmag – no at a few coastal locations. There’s little a long swim to retrieve her ball. time like the present! #adventure demand because there’s little supply. Kate Wakley, Hampshire I love crab and always seek it out when

Write to: coast, Cudham Tithe Barn, Berry’s Hill, Cudham, Kent TN16 3AG; email: coast. [email protected]; Facebook us: facebook.com/coastmagazine or Tweet us: @coastmag

coastmagazine.co.uk 111 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk coast is published by Kelsey Media, Cudham Here’s Tithe Barn, Berry’s Hill, Cudham, Kent TN16 3AG EDITORIAL EDITOR: ALEX FISHER alex.fi [email protected] Art Editor: Heather Heward Chief Sub-Editor: Leona Gerrard how to Features Editor: Gabrielle Jaffe Editorial Assistant: Madeleine Barber With thanks to: Gemma Doyle, Alex Reece, Emma Clayton, Lesley Gillilan, Alice Westgate, Polly Banks, Christopher get Somerville, Maya Plass, Tom Jay, Richard Harrington ADVERTISEMENT SALES Advertising Manager: Sue Tannatt (01959 543581) [email protected] Senior Sales Executive: Pippa Charles (01959 543734) [email protected] in touch Commercial Manager: Emma Doran (01959 543706) [email protected] Business Development Manager: Hayley Mott (01959 543726) [email protected] Classifi ed Sales: Leeanne Garrett (01959 543713) with us: [email protected] PRODUCTION Senior Production Supervisor: Jackie Aubrey (01733 353387) [email protected] Production Manager: Charlotte Whittaker [email protected] subscriptions MANAGEMENT UK new subscription order line & renewals: Managing Director: Phil Weeden Chief Executive: Steve Wright Chairman: Steve Annetts Finance Director: Joyce Parker-Sarioglu 0333 043 9848 Creative Directors: Emma Dublin & Vicky Ophield Retail Distribution Manager: Eleanor Brown Overseas order hotline +44 (0)1959 543 747 Audience Development Manager: Andy Cotton Subs Marketing Manager: Dan Webb Brand Marketing Manager: Rebecca Gibson General subscription & change of address enquiries: Events Manager: Kat Chappell EMAIL [email protected] CALL 0845 241 5159 Events Marketing Executive: Jenni Seddon SUBSCRIPTIONS 12 issues of coast are published per annum UK annual subscription price: £50.40 Europe annual subscription price: £63.99 USA annual subscription price: £63.99 Back issues Rest of World annual subscription price: £69.99 UK subscription back issue orderline: 0333 043 9848 EMAIL shop.kelsey.co.uk CALL 0333 043 9848 Overseas subscription orderline: +44 1959 543 747 Toll-free USA subscription orderline: 1-888-777-0275 UK customer service team: 01959 543747 Customer service email address: [email protected] Customer service and subscription postal address: coast Customer Service Team, Kelsey Publishing Ltd, general magazine enquiries Cudham Tithe Barn, Berry's Hill, Cudham, Kent TN16 3AG, United Kingdom EMAIL [email protected] Find current subscription offers on our website: shop.kelsey.co.uk/Coast Already a subscriber? Manage your subscription LIKE US ON FACEBOOK: facebook.com/coastmagazine online: shop.kelsey.co.uk/myaccount DISTRIBUTION FOLLOW US ON TWITTER: @coastmag Seymour Distribution Ltd 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT seymour.co.uk 020 7429 4000 PRINTING SEE BELOW to reserve at your LOCAL STORE William Gibbons & Sons Ltd, Willenhall, West Midlands Kelsey Media 2016 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not Please reserve/deliver my copy of previously published. Where photographs are included, which are If you can’t always coast not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them fi nd a copy of this on a regular basis, starting with issue must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The magazine, help is at editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails Title First name Surname received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily hand. Complete this those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts form and hand it in at Address no liability for products and services offered by third parties. your local store. They’ll Kelsey Publishing Ltd uses a multi-layered privacy notice, giving arrange for a copy of you brief details about how we would like to use your personal each issue to be reserved information. For full details, visit kelsey.co.uk or call 01959 543524. If you have any questions, please ask as submitting your details for you. Some stores may indicates your consent, until you choose otherwise, that we and even be able to arrange Postcode our partners may contact you about products and services that will for it to be delivered to be of relevance to you via direct mail, phone, email or SMS. You can opt out at ANY time via email: [email protected] or Telephone number your home. Just ask! 01959 543524. coast is available for licensing worldwide. For more information, contact [email protected] IF YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS AN ISSUE KELSEY media www.kelsey.co.uk in the next issue of

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On sale 26 february coast wildlife Shore Spotter’S GUIDe Battling against wind and wave, seabirds have to be tough little characters but they’re also harbingers of spring, says Richard Harrington from the Mcs

eabirds are brilliantly adapted to life on the ocean wave. they have to be waterproof and able to float on the SPOTTED S sea’s surface, so they have short THIS? feathers on their body, which overlap TweeT us: closely, trapping air to help them float. @coastmag Many seabirds have salt glands located above the eyes, which drain extremely salty water through the bill and away from the body. this helps conserve freshwater in their tissues, too – there may not be a drop of freshwater to drink for months on end. the sea offers a huge, Know your often regular, supply of food for those ‘the SeA offerS A hUGe, species able to exploit it. auks such as guillemots and razorbills are able to often reGUlAr, SeABIrDS thrive in great numbers, covering cliffs pUFFIn in riotous throngs when they nest in the SUpply of fooD’ Fratercula arctica spring. UK waters are productive, and a bird with a coloured bill found sandeels and other small fish are available the sea. they are as likely to be seen in orkney, shetland, the Farnes inshore at just the right time for them. on rubbish tips or following a tractor and pembrokeshire Islands. plough, as at the coast. other gulls such skilled opportunists as kittiwakes stick strictly to the seaside. gUIllemot Beaks of puffins can catch and hold lots the cormorant is one of our largest Uria aalge of small fish, while terns and gannets seabirds, recognised by its black an agile penguin-like bird, found dive from a height to catch individual plumage and white chin. Its smaller in the north and east but also fish. skuas and gulls, often bulky birds, relative, the shag has a green plumage, the south coast (Dorset). are acrobatic flyers, adapted to a with a crest on the head. Both are piratical lifestyle with a varied diet of expert fishers. gannet scavenged fish, offal, eggs and chicks. Many seabirds spend winter far out to Morus bassanus as a family, gulls tend to be sea, where they have to weather serious an athletic bird with a pale scavengers and opportunists. the storms. they are all tough characters orange head. Found in Bass black-headed gull and herring gull are and a welcome sight for us when they Rock and st Kilda in scotland familiar to people who rarely, if ever, visit return to our shores to bring in the spring. and Yorkshire’s Bempton cliffs.

THE MARINE CONSERVATION SOCIETY (MCS) is the charity that looks after our seas, shores and wildlife. It cares passionately about clean beaches, the need to protect marine life and the importance of the sea’s resources. MCS makes a vital difference by setting up projects in the UK and abroad. To find out more or become a member, visit mcsuk.org or call 0300 330 0704. You can help by donating as little as £3.75 a month. pHotogRapHs graeme cresswell, john archer-thompson

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DEVON GEMS SCOTLAND'S BEST KEPT SECRET COTTAGES ON THE COAST AND IN AHOLIDAY IN DEVON As our Devon collection expands during 2016 we Cosy,well-equipped, child friendly cottages in perfect THE BEAUTIFULCOUNTRYSIDE look forward to offering guests the opportunity to locations.Sleeps1-10. Discover stunning coastline OF SUFFOLK ANDNORFOLK Anew website showing independent and unique warmed by the Gulf stream, woodland walksfrom your Devon holidays -www.aholidayindevon.co.uk is explore this breathtaking region from the comfort, Carefully selected, individual and unique holiday door,exotic gardens,waterfalls,lochs,hills &fabulous homes for you to choose,from seaside cottages your one-stop website for where to stay and all you luxury and indulgence of our coastal gems. wildlife.Fromwhisky tasting to stone circles &ahost of need to know to plan your perfect break. Youcan expect to find stylish interiors and outdoor activities,there's something here for everyone. to elegant country houses and fabulous barn www.aholidayindevon.co.uk attention to detail that are synonymous with the Dogs welcome.Quote C000116 –5%discount conversions. 01395 263937 Cornish Gems brand, now in its ninth year. 01988 600600 www.heritagehideaways.com www.devongems.com 0844 800 2813 www.escapetogalloway.co.uk 01502 724782

If you would liketobefeatured here please call MESMEAR LUXURYCOTTAGES Ahaven of tranquillity just astone’s throw from the Leeanne Garrett on beaches of Polzeath andthe hubbub Rock. Set in 15 acres of grounds and orchard, with aswimming pool, hot tub,gym andonsite private chef.Mesmear’s four private cottages are the ideal location for family holidays,group getaways,short breaks and unique weddings and events. 01959 543 713 01208 869731 www.mesmear.co.uk [email protected] For details of advertising please call Leeanne Garrett on 01959 543713 Coastal Breaks Travel &Holidays

NEW 2016 BROCHURE Places to relax AVAILABLE andrecharge

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ANGLESEY COASTAL COTTAGES Enjoy Quality time with family and friends in one of our large coastal retreats on the North West coast of Anglesey. We are asmall family run business offering our O T T E R C O T T A G E , S C A R I S T A , I S L E O F H A R R I S collection of holiday cottages for you to share with family and friends and makeyour own very special memories.Our cottages range from child to pet friendly-winter and Christmas discounts available. Idyllic Self-cateringinScotland Contact Lisa on 01407731105 or 07730535089 w: LHHScotland.com e: [email protected] t: 01381610496 Visit www.islandcoastalcottages.com For details of advertising please call Leeanne Garrett on 01959 543713 coast CELEBRITY

My c Comedian, actor and marathon runner Eddie Izzard recalls his school days on the East Sussex coast – and working in the café at the De La Warr Pavilion, where he has since performed INTERVIEW Alex Reece

hen I was growing born in Eastbourne – my granddad he lives down there. So I walk into Wup, I nearly always was a milk roundsman daily.) And my childhood a bit, because it hasn’t lived by the sea. I then you go on through Pevensey changed hugely. I take a train ride was born in Yemen and Norman’s Bay, which is where from Victoria Station, and it’s as if the on the corner of the the Normans landed rst, all the way train goes back in time, like Alice Red Sea, and then to the endless sandy beaches of Through the Looking Glass. in Northern Ireland, we lived right Bexhill and the De La Warr Pavilion The show I’m doing now is called by the Irish Sea. In Wales we were – up to Galley Hill, where Spike Force Majeure – Reloaded. It’s down near the Severn Estuary – Milligan was stationed during the War. got the word ‘Reloaded’ there I went to school in Porthcawl. The De La Warr Pavilion (pictured) because it’s a better show than But it’s Eastbourne through to Bexhill is the thing that has changed. It was it’s ever been. I’ve done 28 countries that I have the greatest af nity with, sort of a dying building when I was and four languages. I’ve played because the South Downs and that working in the self-service café in the the Hollywood Bowl. So it’s coming coast is very dramatic. From Cuckmere late 1970s – £38 a week I was getting to London in ne shape. Haven, which is at the end of the in the summer holidays. Now it’s What will I do when it nishes? Seven Sisters, you go to the foot become one of the great arts centres I might go for a long run. of the Downs and the next school of the South East, and I’ve done gigs See Force Majeure – Reloaded I went to, which is St Bede’s School on the roof in English and in French. at The Palace Theatre, London, in Eastbourne. (My dad was born in What else do I do when I go there from 18 January-20 February Eastbourne and my granddad was now? I go and see my dad, because (0844 248 5150, ticketmaster.co.uk). PHOTOGRAPH ALAMY 122 COAST coastmagazine.co.uk Book your memorable 2016 West Country holiday...

Whether you’re after a dog-friendly break, romantic hideaway, beachside cottage or luxury large home - we’re sure we have the ideal escape for you. Choose from hundreds of stunning coastal, waterside and rural cottages throughout Devon, Cornwall, Dorset and The New Forest.

For special offers and a free copy of our brochure call us on 01548 202020 or check out our website www.toadhallcottages.co.uk ESCAPE TO THE BEACH Contemporary holiday lets on the Cornish coast... all within walking distance of the beach.

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