Experience Sicily – on Horseback the Mountains Extend Their Rolling Formations All the Way to the Horizon
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Experience Sicily – on horseback The mountains extend their rolling formations all the way to the horizon. Whitewashed, historic villages climb the steep slopes. Beyond the mountains, the azure-blue sea glitters, and high in the sky a bird of prey is circling. The place is stunningly beautiful in a way that is both spectacular and idyllic. On horseback, surrounded by pleasant company, the impressions and experiences are strengthened even further. Salvatore Baggesi and Franco Barbagallo Franco Loria Ed Dabney Elizabeth Dabney, Deenie McKeever and Paolo Cricchio Lena Holmgren Text and photo: Lena Holmgren Translator: Sverker Holmström Near the end of September in 2010, own quarter horses back in Georgia. lower altitudes. Moreover, the natural I went on an unforgettable riding Ed Dabney is the reason for me being park is the home of several monuments trip in Sicily, an island with so many there. During the spring of 2010, Lucky from antiquity. It was in these exciting myths attached to it, with such a Rider wrote about this professional surroundings, far away from the well long and richly varied history. The horse trainer when he visited Sweden beaten tracks of the tourist industry, Greeks, the Romans, the Normans, and presented his program for training that we spent a week on horse back. the Arabs, the Mafia and many more horses, “Six Keys to Harmony”. In con- Salvatore Baggesi, or Salvo as he is cal- have left their mark on today’s Sicily. nection with this, Ed talked about his led, was our experienced guide and co-operation with a tour riding opera- host. He knows the mountains and the A motley crew tion in northern Sicily and wondered trails like the back of his hand, and he The picturesque mountain village Castelbuono SicilyOur group of eight riders was almost if Lucky Rider would be interested in also knows the people who live here. as motley as the country itself. The coming along in the autumn, writing Salvo offered us a unique possibility of members of our team were Salvatore an article about it. getting an insight into the Sicilian way Baggesi, restaurateur and owner of a of life in these parts. tour riding operation, photo journalist Off the beaten track Franco Barbagallo, ex-forester Franco One of Sicily’s four natural parks is cal- The week starts with Six Keys Loria and Salvatore Baggesi’s handy led Madonie, the “Dolomites of Sicily” Just outside the picturesque mountain man Paolo Cricchio. Other members so called for their white carbonatic li- village of Castelbouno, about ninety of our group were the American cow- mestone. The area, consisting of 40 000 kilometres east of Palermo, lies Salva- boy Ed Dabney, his daughter Eliza- hectares, is in the province of Palermo tore Baggesi’s tour riding operation ba- beth, and their good friend and neigh- and is dominated by mountainous ter- sed on the agriturismo and guest ranch bour, Deenie McKeever, 74, a brave rain, but there are also forests, pastures, “l’Arione”. Here most of the horses are woman, brimful of energy, with her as well as olive groves and vineyards at Sicilian cross-breeds with an oriental We leave Castelbuono behind and head for the mighty inland of the island, the mountain chain called Madonie. The Madonie area, consisting of 40 000 hectares, is in the province of Palermo and is dominated by mountainous terrain, but there are also forests, pastures, as well as olive groves and vineyards at lower altitudes. origin, and they are sensitive, strong, the age of thirty, Garabaldi was beside served meals that are lovingly cooked, they show endurance and they are sure himself with grief. Hoping that the using recipes that are typical of the re- of foot. horse would survive, he took a large gion and have been handed down for For some time now, Salvo’s horses are melon, scooped out its flesh, filled it generations. In the cosy restaurant, trained using Ed Dabney’s horseman- with strong Marsala wine and gave it housed in a medieval monastery, we ship and Six Keys to Harmony, to to his friend. Unfortunately, the recipe enjoy wonderful meals, all of them of make sure that the horses retain their didn’t work. Well, however that may at least four dishes. There is an uneven keen senses and their respect for the be, “my” Marsala is seven years old and battle going on between our common rider’s helps and wishes when it comes is very much alive. We get along very sense and our taste buds and leaving to riding alone or in a group. During well and she loves to gallop. anything on our plates is almost im- the first day, in the arena, when we get possible. to know the horses that have been as- Taste buds win unequal battle signed to us, we learn how to put into Near the tour riding facilities is the From castle to Hollys practise these useful exercises of lead- Romitaggio, the Baggesi family res- After breakfast on the second day, we ership. taurant. It has been said that the secret ride into Castelbuono. The charming Black Marsala is to be my four legged behind all Italian cooking is the qua- village dates back to the fourteenth companion, a cross-breed between an lity of the ingredients. In the restau- century when the Ventimiglia family, Arab and an Indigenous Sicilian horse. rant, appreciated by its customers, all who were both influential and horse The horse was named after the freedom the ingredients are organically grown loving, had the castle built which gave fighter Giuseppe Garibaldi’s beloved and come absolutely fresh from the the village its name, “The good castle”. retainer. According to the story, when surrounding countryside. As a guest Here the Ventimiglia family founded this mare was taken ill, having reached at the family restaurant, you are being the “Academy of the Star”, a high-class The stable at spanish influenced Terra Vecchia. Franco Loria and Sharon passing some free-ranging cows up in the Madonie Mountain. After seven hours in the saddle we are quite a long way down the other side of the mountain riding-school which at the time was We head for the mountains for a full the timber line and face steeper terrain. known all over Europe. days ride. Saddle bags are packed with Relentlessly the horses keep going. At We ride through the medieval city halter-chains, camera, water bottle, a regular intervals, they are watered from centre which is well preserved. In the few apples, a sweater, and, to be on the big troughs. At lunchtime it is time for midst of this age-old setting, the place safe side, rainwear. Leaving Castlebuo- a break and Salvo surprises us by pre- is seething with life in cafés, squares no behind we head for the mighty in- paring a cowboy picnic, Sicilian style, and narrow lanes. The past feels as alive land of the island, the mountain chain in the middle of the breathtakingly as the exuberant present. From balco- called Madonie. After completing a beautiful landscape. nies generously adorned with flowers, first stage of our ride for the day, clim- children and grown-ups wave at us as bing forested slopes, we move on, fol- Agriturismo Terra Vecchia our little caravan passes, clip-clopping lowing winding roads and cattle paths Moving on, our climb leads to a pla- on narrow cobble-stone alleys. where we come across free-range cows teau well suited for us when we want to Next on the agenda, is Piano Pomo, and horses. go for a nice and much longed-for can- situated a couple of kilometres on the There are fruit-bearing trees and bus- ter. Marsala gallops at full speed and outside of Castelbuono. Here we are hes along the roads. Juicy blackberries the mountain wind caresses my face. met by a unique landscape, lush med- ripened by the abundant sun: bel- After seven hours in the saddle we are ieval paths reminding the visitor of lissimo! Salvo tells us that he usually quite a long way down the other side trolls, and a big forest of three hundred finds many ingredients for his kitchen of the mountain. We pass a field where year old Holly trees. when he is out riding, for instance wild the air is full of fennel and come to our asparagus and mushrooms. The park destination for the day, Agriturismo Sicilian picnic for cowboys which is lovely in the fall has a flora Terra Vecchia, a hacienda built in the Next morning we make an early start. of over two thousand species. We pass Spanish tradition, with buildings pain- A cowboy in Sicily. Guide, interpreter and photo journalist Franco Barbagallo and Oliver. Signore Mancuso Cheese made by using ancient methods. The lifestyle of the Mancuso family has roots thousands of years deep. Hunting, breeding sheeps and cows, growing, gathering, nothing has changed. ted in soft yellowy colours. The farm is bouring village of Castellana to say rolling hills, cows, sheep and goats are owned by a retired general and has for hallo to the confectioner Maurizio grazing. It’s their bells that we hear. many years been the centre of western and enjoy his irresistible pastry, Salvo The animals belong to a farmer called riding. and I decide to go on a spectacular “signore” Mancuso. The lifestyle of the Next to the well-built stable the hor- ride in the opposite direction. Follo- Mancuso family has roots thousands of ses are hosed down and get to spend wing a winding road, in ghostlike fog years deep.