Napa County coverage: Visit us online at NapaValleyRegister.com/wine for more coverage of the wine ON WINE industry. FRIDAY, AUGUST 2, 2019 | napavalleyregister.com | SECTION C

ON WINE The 100- point wine

ecades ago, soon after the 100-point scoring scheme Dbecame a popular way to evaluate wine, a glossy wine magazine awarded a 100-point score to an exalted First Growth Bordeaux. As a former math major in college and pro- fessional skeptic, I was already cynical about DAN rating the qual- BERGER ity of a wine by numbers — es- pecially if more than one evaluation system is used at the same time. The magazine’s policy made no sense to me. It was almost par- adoxical. (See “The Unexpected Hanging,” by Martin Gardner.) The magazine said its eval- uation had been done by fi ve judges, that the evaluation was totally blind (the judges didn’t know the identity of the ), GARY OTTONELLO PHOTOS and that the fi nal score repre- Julie Johnson of Tres Sabores pours for a member of the trade at A Day in the Dust. sented the cumulative opinion of all judges. I immediately saw problems. The magazine asking us to ac- cept the premise that three or more of the fi ve judges had in- dependently come to the con- clusion that one unknown wine was worth 100 points — and that the other two judges had Dust in the rated it at least 99 points. That inconsistency proved that some of the problems as- sociated with wine judging may not always be as evident as they should be. The late UC Davis Prof. Maynard Amerine, in his 1976 book “Wines, Their Sensory Evaluation,” outlined several wind (and fog) wine-evaluation fallacies when people are rating several wines. The Rutherford Dust Society puts on a 25th anniversary show in San Francisco Most people seem to prefer ranking systems to give them a TONY POER event’s most surprising wine, frame of reference as to what a A pair of Northern California a 2012 Rutherford Sauvignon wine expert, or an expert panel, institutions shared a spotlight Blanc. considers great. in San Francisco last month. “Not only was opening up A Even UC Davis sees the On a cool Thursday after- Day in the Dust to consumers need for some form of rank- noon, the St. Francis Yacht Club a brilliant idea, but so was tak- ing, and for decades has used hosted the Rutherford Dust So- ing the show on the road,” the a 20-point system to evaluate ciety (RDS) for the group’s an- communications director said. student-produced wines. This nual “A Day in the Dust” July “These wine lovers would not system was later adapted to trade tasting. The 92-year-old have been exposed to the wines analyze commercial wine. De- sailing club opened its doors to on display had [the tasting] been cades ago, I used a form of this the much younger association held in its previous fashion.” for my own purposes. (I never of Napa Valley wineries, which Julie Johnson, an industry published the results.) It was was commemorating its 25th veteran from her days at Frog’s merely a shorthand method for anniversary. Leap and the proprietor-wine- determining how to write about As in past years, dozens of Bay maker of Tres Sabores, was a particular wine. Area retailers and restaurateurs pleased with the balance of attended the event. Consumers trade, media, and her own club Please see BERGER, Page C5 and winery club members fol- The Rutherford Dust Society Grand Tasting in San Francisco. members who attended. lowed the trade later that day, “This was, I think, just a test a fi rst for the Rutherford Dust was about 40 degrees colder clubhouse it was a coming-out to see what was possible,” she Of all the grape Society. In another break from that day than in . party for the much-anticipated said of the switch from Ruth- varieties that claim tradition, instead of Rutherford St. Francis Yacht Club sits above 2016 vintage, as well as an op- erford to San Francisco for the preeminence in this enthusiasts trekking up to Napa a rocky seawall at the northern portunity for wineries to dig grand tasting. “There’s noth- Valley for the popular event, the edge of the Marina District, through their cellars. ing like bringing the tasting to world, disheveled, RDS brought the Grand Tasting and the normally spectacular “With this being the 25th people and seeing who comes. tattooed, unshaven, to San Francisco. view of Alcatraz, Angel Island, anniversary of the Rutherford I had wine club members here, They also brought some bot- and the Golden Gate Bridge was Dust Society, the retrospective and they may not have made sandal-wearing Pinot tled sunshine in the form of partly hidden by dense July fog. tasting of Rutherford AVA wines the trip if it hadn’t been right Noir seems to be the Rutherford Cabernet, , Long moans from the bridge’s was fi tting,” said Kelly Carter of in San Francisco. So that was and . Consis- foghorn every few minutes Alpha Omega Winery, an RDS pretty cool.” least likely candidate tent with San Francisco summer added to the gloomy ambiance. member since 2006. Carter had for stardom. weather, the local temperature But inside the nautically themed the distinction of pouring the Please see DUST, Page C2 The Rutherford Chili Ball returns Aug. 4 Spirits make inroads despite In celebration of its 25th an- niversary, Rutherford Dust the government roadblocks Society (RDS), the non-profi t member association for growers ERIC ALTHOFF for concern, as excise and “sin and vintners in the Rutherford Distilled spirits continue to taxes” imposed by various states Appellation, will host the Ruth- take a bite out of beer and wine are not only increasing the erford Chili Ball on Sunday, Aug. in the American drinking mar- per-bottle cost to consumers, 4 from 5 to 8 p.m. at Becksto er ket. In fact, 2018 marked the but also endangering many jobs. Farm Center. ninth straight year of record “Like it or not, whenever a Back by popular demand, this sales and volumes, increasing political party thinks they need festive, family-friendly event to $27.5 billion of supplier sales new revenue, they try to tax dis- will include entertainment for all — or 37.4 percent of the total al- tilled spirits,” Ozgo said. “When ages, including a Chili Cook-o coholic beverage market. you tax distilled spirits, you’re competition between vintners, That’s good news for business, really just taxing the hospitality growers, fi refi ghters, chefs, and according to David Ozgo, the se- industry. And, ultimately, these self-proclaimed chili connois- nior vice president for economic taxes cost jobs. seurs in Rutherford. and strategic analysis at the “Even though the economy is A live vote by attendees and Distilled Spirits Council of the doing fairly well right now, you local chefs will decide who gets United States, the national trade never want to [levy] a tax and the ultimate glory and bragging SUBMITTED PHOTO association for producers and cost somebody their job.” rights for having the best chili in The annual Rutherford Chili Ball is Aug. 4. marketers of distilled spirits. Furthermore, such taxes typ- Rutherford. “Over the last three or four ically function as a moral judg- In years past, the Rutherford try music by Brigham Brothers Wines by RDS members and years, in volume terms, we’ve ment on personal behavior: Chili Ball has been a sold-out Band. local beers will be available, gotten into a consistent growth Rather than stopping “problem event, where locals, guests and “The Chili Ball is a great Ruth- complemented by a full barbecue pattern of 2 percentage points,” drinkers” from indulging, the their families gathered to kick erford tradition,” said RDS Board spread featuring slow-roasted Ozgo said in a phone interview. levies slow buying across the back, relax and enjoy each oth- Secretary Regina Weinstein of brisket, chicken, and all the “The 5.1 percent increase in rev- board, resulting in less taxes to er’s company. This year, RDS is Honig Vineyards and Winery. “It sides by Black Bean BBQ. A silent enue means that we’ve grown even collect, o cials said. bringing it back with fun activi- allows us to reconnect with our auction will feature large for- revenues by over a billion dol- “You’re not doing anything ties for the entire family — from friends and neighbors in Ruther- mat bottles of Rutherford wine, lars.” from a public health standpoint bouncy houses, to face painting ford before harvest. The money as well as tasting experiences And yet, even with distilled to curb abusive drinking,” Ozgo by Buki the Clown, lawn games, we raise supports important throughout the appellation. spirits continuing to make in- said. and more. This year’s event will non-profi ts in our community, roads against beer and wine, be a rodeo theme, with live coun- and it’s always a lot of fun!” Please see CHILI, Page C2 Ozgo says there remains cause Please see SPIRITS, Page C5

M 1 C2 | Friday, August 2, 2019 WINE Napa Valley Register

with a foot each in the past on the Grand Tasting. Like Dust and quickly evolving pres- Laurie Hanna, his family is From C1 ent. attached to the wine busi- The current RDS board ness. And, like Sprincin, he A long-time link‌ president, Steve Tonella, works in software. Having an identity so was on hand to pour his “I thought it was a great closely intertwined with S.R. Tonella Cellars Cab- event,” said Howsepian. Napa Valley’s, it might ernet and Sauvignon Blanc “It was really cool to see so come as a surprise that for the attendees. He has many different winemakers Rutherford was granted been a Society member from a single AVA showcas- American Viticultural Area since 2014. ing different wines. And it status only in 1993, or that Taking breaks to work his was also nice to see just the RDS is just turning 25. way through the crowded how many different profiles But the entire appellation clubhouse and greet at- of wine can come from the system isn’t much older. tendees, Tonella observed same area.” Viticulture and winemak- that, while the event show- Taking a moment to con- ing in Rutherford extend a cased the uniqueness of sult his tasting booklet, he lot further back into Cali- Rutherford’s terroir in the was impressed, in particu- fornia’s past. present Napa Valley con- lar, by the range of wineries In fact, by the time a text, “We have wineries at the event, “from those group of San Francisco that have been in contin- that have been around for yachtsmen founded the uous operation since 1900 generations to some that are St. Francis Yacht Club in and one winery, Inglenook, just getting off their feet — 1927, Georges de Latour where their first harvest that are just starting to kind had reached his own quar- was in 1882. So there’s a of showcase their wines.” ter-century milestone at tremendous history of the his successful Rutherford Rutherford viticultural re- Museum quality ‌ winery, Beaulieu Vine- gion.” A socked-in afternoon yard. Few wineries in Califor- and evening aside, the St. De Latour got his start in nia, let alone Napa Valley, Francis Yacht Club proved Napa Valley in 1900, when, can boast Ingelnook’s or to be an ideal venue for according to wine histo- Beaulieu Vineyard’s lon- both the trade, who needed rian Charles Sullivan in gevity. But event partic- some elbow room to take Napa Wine, A History, the ipants like Heitz Cellar, notes, and for consumers French-born entrepreneur Freemark Abbey, and Gr- and winery club members sold a separate business in gich Hills have done their to converse with wine pro- Healdsburg and purchased fair share to help set the fessionals in a relaxed at- four acres in Rutherford. quality bar very high for mosphere. The move, Sullivan writes, Rutherford Cabernet Sau- It also afforded any yacht “put him in position to be- vignon. All three proper- enthusiasts among attend- come the baron of Napa ties own track records that ees the chance to observe an Valley premium winegrow- date to the 1960s and ‘70s, exquisite — and enormous ing 30 years later.” a highly formative period — collection of scale model In 2019, Beaulieu Vine- for the California industry. boats arranged throughout yard is a pre-eminent Longtime Freemark Ab- the event space. In a fol- member of the Society. bey winemaker Ted Ed- GARY OTTONELLO‌ low-up email, the club’s With her back to the fog- wards explained that his “Rutherford ‘dust,’ bottled and transported down to San Francisco for A Day in the Dust”. spokesman, Commodore shrouded bay, a Beaulieu late boss, Laurie Wood, Paul Heineken, explained brand manager, Gina-Rose was on the Rutherford Dust A tribute to tribute to the legacy of our we hope to grow.” that all of the models are Oliva, found herself pour- Society’s original board of Rutherford’s grape-growing and wine- One such consumer was on loan or have been do- ing the iconic Georges de directors, along with Andy making forebears.” Laurie Hanna, who took nated over the years, some Latour Private Reserve Beckstoffer, Davey Piña winemaking history‌ Today, that dozen win- a tasting break for some by the owners of the origi- Cabernet next to John and of Piña Napa Valley, and About 12 wineries made eries has increased to more decidedly fresh air on the nal yachts. Stacy Reinert, proprietors Frog’s Leap co-founder up the first RDS member- than 40 members, joined by club’s seaside patio. Com- “The models situated of the six-year-old (and John Williams. “I’m prob- ship when it was founded two dozen growers. Many ing from a grape-growing around the club tell our cleverly named) Brilliant ably leaving someone out,” in 1994, on the heels of of these members grow family in Alexander Val- club’s story through a mu- Mistake Wines. The ar- Edwards confessed. “Lau- the Rutherford AVA recog- and make wine in relatively ley, it wasn’t her first wine seum-quality collection,” rangement was symbolic rie, who was one of Free- nition. On the homepage small quantities. Even as tasting. “This was a great Heineken wrote. “They of Rutherford’s place in mark’s general partners, of the Society’s website, she expressed concern for event,” she said, express- represent many of the sig- the indus- got me on the board at one it states that the original the future of such artisan ing some surprise. “Why it nificant yachts that have try: a Napa Valley district point in time.” members launched it “in producers in Napa Valley, wasn’t packed to the gills is sailed and raced under Tres Sabores’ Johnson was beyond me. But I’m sure it our burgee over the years, upbeat about the turnout will be next year.” across oceans and around Para más detalles llame al 1-800-660-6789 • 詳情請致電 1-800-893-9555 for A Day in the Dust. A companion of Hanna’s, the world.” “How do we how do we Kristin Hagan Sprincin, The wines of Ruther- NOTICE OF EVIDENTIARY HEARING FOR PACIFIC GAS get our voices out there?” runs global partnerships ford are, in a way, like the AND ELECTRIC COMPANY’S REQUEST TO INCREASE she asked. “And who can for a software company in St. Francis model yacht be our partners to help San Francisco but spends a collection. They might be RATES IN ITS ENERGY RESOURCE RECOVERY build that? I mean we are fair amount of time at her thought of “museum-qual- ACCOUNT COMPLIANCE APPLICATION (A.19-02-018) — small wineries, in par- and her husband’s second ity” themselves, owing to ticular — we’re in danger of home in Pope Valley. She the Rutherford District’s not being able to welcome appeared familiar with and Napa Valley’s long, DATE AND TIME LOCATION people and have people get Rutherford. parallel histories. They cer- August 19–23, 2019, Commission Courtroom to know us and sustain our “This is really one of the tainly have an international at 9:30 a.m. (Daily) State Office Building businesses. So I think that top Napa Valley wine events reputation because of that 505 Van Ness Avenue the Rutherford Society is I’ve been to,” she said. “I history. But the Rutherford San Francisco, CA 94102 an avenue for one of those looked around thinking Dust Society now has its affiliations. It’s a tool that a I’m not going to know a lot eyes on the future. SUMMARY small winery can utilize to of these wineries, but then Steve Tonella shared a These Evidentiary Hearings have been scheduled by the California Public Utilities Commission (CPUC) continue to be out there.” I knew, I would say, all but final thought on this. to review PG&E’s compliance application and request to increase rates for seismic (earthquake) Once trade and media maybe one or two.” “You know, if you go back studies performed at Diablo Canyon Power Plant. attendees filtered out of “I think that there’s to France and you look at Please note: The CPUC’s Courtroom is wheelchair accessible. If you wish to attend and need the yacht club in the late something about the wines regions of Champagne specialized accommodations, please contact the Public Advisor’s Office (PAO) at least five business afternoon, the Rutherford in Rutherford that’s very or different areas within days prior to the hearing date. Any changes to the dates, times and locations of the hearings will be vintners took a short break special,” Sprincin added. Bordeaux, they’ve had posted to the CPUC’s Daily Calendar. before consumer started “This event is also really hundreds and hundreds ABOUT THE APPLICATION to show up. Stretched out special because you get to of years to promote their The Energy Resource Recovery Account (ERRA) Compliance application was originally filed on February into the evening, the turn- meet a lot of the propri- wines, to showcase and 28, 2019, and the purpose is to review costs recorded to the ERRA balancing account from the prior year. The application also includes a request to increase rates to recover $4.69 million related to out was decent, but hardly etors of the wineries that make them distinct,” said seismic studies performed at Diablo Canyon Power Plant. overwhelming. RDS Exec- you drive past when you’re the RDS board president. utive Director Sara Soergel going up Valley. You don’t “And so we’re very young. The ERRA balancing account is used to record fuel and purchased power costs which can be recovered in rates. PG&E recovers these costs with no markup for return or profit. The purpose of this ERRA reiterated that “this was necessarily stop at all of We’re 25 years old, right? Compliance proceeding is to review PG&E’s costs associated with obtaining energy for customers and the first year that the Grand them, but here you get to So we just have a more of approve rate increases for other program costs noted above. The CPUC will review PG&E’s costs to Tasting for consumers was see them in one place.” an opportunity to show- ensure compliance with the previously approved forecast and energy purchasing plans. offered. We had about 220 Stephan Howsepian was case our wines and make HOW WILL PG&E’S APPLICATION AFFECT ME? trade attend, and there another consumer attendee the history come alive, and Many customers receive bundled electric service from PG&E, meaning they receive electric generation, were 100 consumers, which who offered some thoughts then take that forward.” transmission and distribution services. Based on rates currently in effect at the time the application was filed, the bill for a typical residential NonCARE customer using 500 kWh per month would increase from $112.08 to $112.13, or 0.04 percent. Actual bill impacts will vary depending on usage. Direct Access (DA) andCommunityChoiceAggregation (CCA)customersonly receiveelectric transmission Department, Rutherford kids under 5 are free. Group and distribution services from PG&E. These customers will not be impacted by this application. Chili 4-H, St. Helena Co-op rates are also available for Departing Load customers do not receive electric generation, transmission or distribution services from From C1 Nursery School, and the parties of 10 or more. For PG&E. However, they are required to pay certain charges by law or CPUC decision. These customers area’s historic community tickets and more informa- will not be impacted by this application. A portion of proceeds of building, the Rutherford tion, visit rutherforddust. TO OBTAIN COPIES the event will go directly to Hall. org, Rutherford Dust So- If you would like a copy of PG&E’s filing and exhibits, please write to: PG&E, 2018 ERRA Compliance local non-profits including Tickets are $50 for adults ciety’s Facebook page, or Application A.19-02-018, P.O. Box 7442, San Francisco, CA 94120. Copies of PG&E’s filing and Rutherford Dust Society, 21 and older, $25 for ages email info@rutherforddust. exhibits are also available for review by appointment at the CPUC’s Central Files Office in San Francisco. Rutherford Volunteer Fire 13-20, $15 for ages 6-12, and org. For more information, please contact them at [email protected] or 1-415-703-2045. PG&E’s filing (without exhibits) is available on the CPUC’s website at www.cpuc.ca.gov/puc. CPUC PROCESS At these Evidentiary Hearings, the assigned Judge will receive testimonies from PG&E, consumer advocacy groups and other parties to this proceeding. These hearings are open to the public, but only those who silverado are parties to the proceeding may present evidence or testimony and be subject to cross-examination. COUNTRY CLUB The hearings and documents submitted during this proceeding will become part of the formal record the Judge will rely upon in writing a proposed decision to present to the Commissioners for their consideration. Napa, Ca After considering all proposals and evidence presented during the formal hearing process, the assigned Judge will issue a proposed decision which may adopt, modify or deny PG&E’s proposal. Any NEW! MEMBER FOR A DAY of the five CPUC Commissioners may also sponsor an alternate decision. The proposed decision and any alternate decisions will be discussed and voted upon by the Commissioners at a scheduled public Our Silverado Country Club Invitational and Junior Executive CPUC Voting Meeting. Memberships allows you to become a Member without owning The California Public Advocates Office (CalPA) has reviewed this proposal.A CalP is the independent a home in the Silverado Community – a first in over 30 years. consumer advocate within the CPUC with a legislative mandate to represent investor-owned utility customers to obtain the lowest possible rate for service consistent with reliable and safe service levels. As part of your consideration to become a Member at Silverado CalPA has a multidisciplinary staff with expertise in economics, finance, accounting and engineering. For Country Club we invite you to be a Member for a Day. more information about CalPA, please call 1-415-703-1584, email [email protected] Join us for this opportunity for just $199 per person. or visit http://www.publicadvocates.cpuc.ca.gov. STAY INFORMED Experience Includes: If you would like to follow this proceeding, or any other issue before the CPUC, you may use the CPUC’s One Round of Golf · Lunch at The Grill · 20% Off Spa Service free subscription service. Sign up at: http://subscribecpuc.cpuc.ca.gov/. Member Discounts on Merchandise in the Golf Shop If you would like to learn how you can participate in the proceeding, have informal comments, or if you have questions about the CPUC processes, you may access the CPUC’s PAO webpage at Contact the Membership Dept. to Book Your Country Club Experience Day www.cpuc.ca.gov/pao/.You may also contact the PAO as follows: [email protected] | (707) 257-5539 Write: CPUC Public Advisor’s Office 2019 Golfweek’s BestTop 200 Resort Golf Courses − #149 in the US 505 Van Ness Avenue #17 in CA − #6 in Northern CA San Francisco, CA 94102 Email: [email protected] Phone: 1-866-849-8390 (toll-free) or 1-415-703-2074 TTY: 1-866-836-7825 (toll-free) or 1-415-703-5282 Please reference 2018 ERRA Compliance Application (A.19-02-018) in any communications you have with the CPUC regarding this matter. All public comments will become part of the public correspondence file for this proceeding and made available for review by the assigned Judge, the Commissioners and appropriate CPUC staff. M 1