‌Napa County coverage: Visit us online at NapaValleyRegister.com/wine for more coverage of the wine ON WINE industry. Friday, July 5, 2019 | napavalleyregister.com | SECTION C

ON WINE California’s Non- legacy abernet Sauvignon –- the Indeed, Cabernet is a rela- being called “the country’s only matter) until relatively recently. legacy of wine grapes was based grape that launched Cali- tive Johnny-come-lately to the wine history museum.” Only scant acreage of either on Petite Sirah, Chenin Blanc, ‌Cfornia into the world’s wine party. The grape was basically The museum is based in one of grape could be found anywhere Carignane, Barbera and Zinfan- spotlight 43 years ago — cre- non-existent in the first two America’s most important Cab in the North Coast as recently as del — and much more recently ated a heritage stages of history regions, Oakville. It’s a hand- the mid-1960s. . that constantly — pre-Prohibition (before 1919) some facility adjacent to Bois- In Napa, only Beaulieu and Petite Sirah: This dense red reminds us how and Rebirth (1933-1966). Since set’s upgraded Oakville Grocery. Inglenook consistently produced grape has always produced mon- important it is as 1967, I see the third epoch as It offers visitors a look at how Cabernet in the 1940s and ‘50s. umental, dark, age-worthy reds, a grape and a wine. World Greatness. Napa began as a wine-growing It wasn’t until 1961 when the including the sensational, long- ‌But when Cal- And yes, in the last five de- region two decades before turn late visionary grapegrower Na- lived 1971 and 1975 versions of ifornia’s wine cades, Cab has been king. But of the last century. than Fay planted the variety on Petite Sirah from both Ridge and history is written, has it seen better days? Are we One feature of the Grocery: his large Stag’s Leap ranch that Freemark Abbey — two of the DA N BERGER the chapter on entering a new era in Califor- visitors can purchase tastes Napa had any significant acreage best Petite Sirahs ever made in Cabernet right- nia wine? More about that next of dozens of Cabs — the grape of Cab. the state. fully should a lot week. that’s the Grocery’s major wine Indeed, even then Fay was Napa’s top Petite Sirah pro- smaller than most people think I was reminded of Cab’s place focus. considered a bit daft to plant in ducers in the late 1960s and — especially in relation to the last week when irrepressible But Napa and the entire North an area many thought too cool to 1970s often used fruit from state’s north coast wine/grape Jean-Charles Boisset formally Coast had ostensibly no Cab- ripen Cabernet! culture dating nearly 140 years. opened “1881 Napa,” what is ernet (or for that The North Coast’s almost-lost Please see BERGER, Page C5

THE WINE EXCHANGE Exploring Aligoté acky Young is co-propri- etor (with her husband Jim ‌JYoung) and director of wine making for St. Helena based Young Inglewood Vineyards where a precious one-third acre is dedicated to growing Aligoté. ‌Jacky is a self-avowed “Burgundy nut” and planted this block with Aligoté (as is of- ten done in Bur- gundy) because she knew Char- donnay would not do well on their ALLEN site. The first vin- BALIK tage produced in 2015 was a mere 10 cases from 3-year-old vines where she “hand-squeezed” the grapes as the quantity was too small for the mechanical press. A true labor of love! A couple weeks ago, Jacky SUBMITTED PHOTOS ‌ invited a group of industry Chris Carpenter at Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard, one of two Australian wineries owned by Jackson Family. professionals to taste a range of Aligotés from California, Ore- gon and across Burgundy. Jacky proved a deft organizer and conducted the tasting in an in- Not a Stranger in a Strange Land formal, but structured, format where each flight, served blind, The map of Chris region he doesn’t work in: the had a theme and the selection Barossa Valley. included some of the world’s Carpenter’s wine Arguably Australia’s best- most revered Aligoté producers. known place on its wine map, the Flight One (four ) world reads more river valley 90 minutes north of represented Burgundy’s McLaren Vale began to capture “Haut-producers” exhibiting like an atlas. the attention of the wine critic more varietal typicity from Robert Parker more than 20 years four different vintages – 2011 TONY POER ago. through 2016. Flight Two (three ‌As general manager of Napa “There’s a lot going on in Aus- wines) showed varying stylis- Valley vineyards for Jackson tralia right now with the wine tic impressions from the same Family Wines, Chris Carpenter culture,” he said. “I think for (2017) vintage. Flight Three is a prolific California vintner. many years, particularly around (four wines) paired two notable He heads up winemaking at Shiraz, it was being driven by the Burgundian producers with re- Oakville’s Cardinale Estate and success of brands that Robert cent and library vintages from does the same for Lokoya, Mt. Parker had anointed.” each ranging from 1995 to 2015. Brave and La Jota Vineyard, all Some of that critic’s favorite Attending the tasting were owned by Jackson Family. He is wines, he noted, went “a little a highly regarded Napa wine- the company’s standard-bearing The Hickinbotham estate in McLaren Vale, South Australia. too far on the ripening scale. But maker with a master’s degree winemaker. the Aussies are coming back on in viticulture from the Uni- Not quite settled after years his wife, Barbara Banke, decided calendar is centered on an annual that, especially in the Barossa.” versity of Burgundy Aaron spent building a stellar Napa nearly two decades ago to estab- harvest trip in March. As a vint- He pointed out that wine- Pott; noted viticulturist and Valley career, the veteran vint- lish a Southern Hemisphere out- ner working in two hemispheres, makers in McLaren Vale didn’t winemaker Steve Mathiason ner opted in 2012 to flip things post there. he oversees a harvest and crush receive the same critical atten- with his wife and partner Jill; on their head and make for the Carpenter was preparing for not once, but twice a year. tion in the ‘90s but have distin- Hill Family Estate and Oak Antipodes. his next trip to Clarendon, a He seems to welcome the chal- guished themselves in their own Knoll Farming principle Doug “I’m connected to the South village near the South Australia lenge the last several years have way. “They’ve concentrated a Hill; Young Inglewood wine- Australia community,” Carpen- capital city of Adelaide and home brought to his life. lot on producing wines that re- maker Scott Young; Burgundy ter said in late February of his to Hickinbotham Clarendon In the Veeder Room, an ele- ally speak to the terroir. So, it’s aficionado Josh Shapiro from thrice-yearly sojourns in the Vineyard, one of two Australian gant meeting space at Cardinale been very exciting, because there San Francisco’s Flatiron Wines wine-centric Australian state. wineries owned by Jackson Fam- Estate, the tall, gravelly-voiced are some beautiful McLaren Vale and Carolyn Scheinberg of the “Understanding that has been a ily. On top of his local responsi- winemaker talked about his wines over there that we don’t Crenn Restaurant Group in San great revelation to me.” bilities, he has directed the wine- Australian project. A winery see here.” Francisco. His destination is always Mc- making at Hickinbotham for its colleague opened a bottle each Hickinbotham is a notable Together, under the able Laren Vale, one of the principal last seven vintages. of Hickinbotham’s newly-re- exception. Along with its other guidance of Jacky we tasted, grapegrowing regions in sunny, Compared to most winemak- leased and Cabernet McLaren Vale property, Yangarra California-esque South Aus- ers, Chris Carpenter follows an Sauvignon. Carpenter started Please see BALIK, Page C5 tralia. The late Jess Jackson and unusual schedule. His Australian the conversation discussing a Please see CARPENTER, Page C2 1881 Napa Wine History Museum opens in Oakville REGISTER STAFF tensive collection of historic out the Valley” by tasting Caber- ‌1881 Napa, a wine history mu- wine relics from Europe and the net Sauvignons from 12 different seum, has opened in Oakville in United States, antique decanters, sub-appellations. the historic mansion adjacent to original artifacts from the Early Guests can also sample wines the Oakville Grocery. California Wine Trade Archive from a blend of Napa Valley grapes, The project is the creation of and background on all of the 16 including a sparkling wine, Sau- vintner Jean-Charles Boisset, sub-appellations of Napa Valley vignon Blanc, rosé, Chardonnay, who bought the property earlier and the founders and pioneers of red blend, Merlot and a Cabernet this year. those areas. Sauvignon, all made for 1881 Napa At the official opening, Boisset The museum is open to vis- by Winemaker Thane Knutson. said, “America is really the reflec- itors free of charge. Visitors to 1881 Napa is at 7856 St. Helena tion of the people of the past that 1881 Napa can also taste wines Highway in Oakville and is open really crafted this valley and cre- from throughout Napa Valley daily from 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. ated the valley… This is your 101 via rotating comparative tastings Reservations are recommended. class on the history of California, with themes such as “Majestic the pioneers of Napa Valley, the Mountains Versus Plush Valley” LOWELL DOWNEY PHOTO ‌ terroir — you can taste history and “Is it Cool to be Hot or Hot to The 1881 Napa Wine History here. be Cool?” as well as an option to Museum in Oakville is open daily 1881 Napa features an ex- “Embark on a Journey Through- 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

M 1 C2 | Friday, July 5, 2019 WINE Napa Valley Register Leo Tellez joins Ackerman Family Vineyards

REGISTER STAFF devoted more than 25 years relations degree, Tellez Kapcsandy, Blankiet, Re- yards purchased the Stone- ‌Ackerman Family Vine- at Robert Mondavi Win- took viticulture and enol- pris, Captûre, Notre Vin and haven vineyard in Napa’s yards has appointed Leo ery until the winery sold in ogy classes at Napa Valley Sodaro Estate. Coombsville district in 1994 Tellez to the role of wine- 2004. College and started his first In 2016, Tellez joined So- and began making wine for maker. His first Ackerman Tellez’s personal con- wine-making internship at daro Estate in Coombsville themselves in 1995. An en- wine, a 2018 Sauvignon nection to wine came via Kapcsandy Family Vine- full-time as their wine- tire replant of the vineyard Blanc, was released in June. sommelier and chef men- yards in Napa Valley, work- maker, working with viti- in 1999 led to the first Ack- Tellez’s great-grandfa- tors at restaurants such as ing closely with winemaker culture consultant Michael erman Family Vineyards’ ther moved to Napa Valley Domaine Chandon’s Étoile David Sotelo. Wolf and the family to make commercial release in 2003. from Jalisco, Mexico and restaurant, La Toque, The In 2012, he joined wine- small-production Caber- The Ackerman’s Stone- bought one acre of land French Laundry and Masa’s. making consultant De- nets. He will continue to haven Vineyard received ISRAEL VALENCIA PHOTO ‌ in 1950. His grandfather After graduating from nis Malbec as his assis- make the Sodaro Estate the first organic vineyard Leo Tellez is the new spent his career at Charles San Francisco State Univer- tant winemaker working wines. certification in Coombsville winemaker for Ackerman Krug Winery and his father sity with an international with wineries including Ackerman Family Vine- in 2009. Family Vineyards.

pened to coincide with the as a result of it was really Carpenter Napa earthquake, he met intense. I think it’s going From C1 Carpenter through their to be a great Aussie vintage mutual friend, Yangarra’s for McLaren Vale and South Estate, Jackson Family has Peter Fraser. “I met Chris Australia, because we heard put considerable energy Carpenter, and the earth the same thing coming into marketing these wines moved for me,” he laughed. from other regions.” across the U.S. In addition Joking aside, the MP is From a low point in to making wine on opposite one of Carpenter’s biggest the early 2000s to today, sides of the globe, Carpen- fans back in Australia. things seem to be looking ter works with sales teams “We haven’t had a lot up for Australian wines in in this country and in major of Americans down here the U.S. The ’19 vintage will Australian cities to promote in McLaren Vale. So to only help, if Carpenter’s as- the Clarendon winery. have someone of Chris’ sessment proves correct. Australian red wine is stature coming into town, He acknowledged back in practically synonymous people just hang off what February that, through with Shiraz and, to a lesser he’s got to say. We’re very Hickinbotham’s and Yan- extent, Grenache. At Hick- open here, just like people garra Estate’s wines, the inbotham, Carpenter pro- in Napa are, and we love doors pushed open by the duces well-regarded ver- to learn new things. And Jackson Family’s power- sions of both Rhône grapes. I guess having Chris here, ful marketing arm allow But with the winery’s 2016 he’s seeing two vintages smaller but equally quali- Cabernet Sauvignon and a year, because he’s doing ty-driven wineries to reach Merlot in front of him, he the Napa vintage and the new consumers in this zeroed in its Bordeaux va- vintage in McLaren Vale.” country. rieties. “He’s an outstanding As a former importer “Our climate in McLaren winemaker who can teach based in Napa, Australian Vale, our terroir, is much us some things,” Bignell national Rob McDonald has more similar to Califor- added. “He’s also a keen kept his eye on the South nia than it is to Bordeaux. learner, so he wants to hear Australia wine scene. He So what I’ve been trying from our guys about how founded Old Bridge Cel- to do is take advantage of they do things. He just fits lars in the early ‘90s and what I’ve learned here in in perfectly here; he’s good after a decade had created California and apply it, for a laugh, he’s good for a highly respected import terroir-wise, to what I’m sitting around listening to portfolio before selling his seeing over there. I’m let- a bit of music, and he loves company in 2004. He has ting the vines tell me when his sport.” since branched into — some to pick and how to pick In college, Carpen- might say single-handedly from a flavor standpoint, ter played football at the created, along with his from an acidity and tannin University of Illinois and wife, Kat — the craft wine development standpoint. is admired, according to cooler category vis-à-vis And that’s kind of driven Bignell, for his ability to their company, St. May- my style of the wines, not follow the Australian rules hem. But South Australia only here but down there, version of the game. He has and McLaren Vale artisan and I think it really shows a sense of humor about the wines are never far from in these wines.” differences between Napa his thoughts. Wines from the Hickinbotham portfolio. At $75 each, the prices Valley and McLaren Vale, “The things that are for Hickinbotham’s wines particularly when it comes going on with Australian are higher than many other years in a cellar. Carpenter departures. There’s enough “I’m down there for a to South Australia fauna wine are things that have Australian imports. In re- has over a decade’s more that it’s benefited what I do good four or five weeks. like noisily mating koalas, been going on all the time lation to Cardinale and the experience in Napa Valley here.” People take pity on me and grape-devouring lorikeet consistently,” McDonald Napa Valley brands Car- than in McLaren Vale, but When Jackson Fam- invite me over for dinner,” birds, and deadly spiders. said. “Right from the birth penter makes, however, you wouldn’t guess it by ily launched the Hickin- he exaggerated with a smile. Kangaroos, of course, are of the industry, there have those prices seem pretty his Australian wines’ depth botham Clarendon Vine- “I get to know some folks. ever-present. They’re his been lots of small, inde- reasonable, at least for col- and complexity. yard brand in 2012, it was And you know, I’ve gotten companions in the Hick- pendently minded people lectors. “One of the things that’s named for the viticul- to the point now where I’ve inbotham vineyard when making really cool wines And they are collectible happened to my winemak- tural estate the company hosted people coming back he’s alone practicing his from different places. The red wines. The Hickin- ing style here in California purchased. The previous to Napa, and it’s become trombone. Via his passion single vineyards are an im- botham Merlot is more ap- is it’s been influenced by owners supplied grapes to a really nice community for Jazz Fest in New Orleans portant part of it.” proachable than the Caber- what I’ve learned in Aus- a renowned McLaren Vale of people that, when I go and that city’s music, he He went on to echo Car- net, but neither wine is for- tralia,” he said. “I’m con- winery, Clarendon Hills. down there, I don’t feel like picked up the instrument penter’s assessment of the biddingly tannic. Tightly stantly trying to under- Carpenter’s Australian a stranger anymore.” several years ago and often ’19 harvest conditions at wound, to be sure, with stand how Aussies think colleague and good friend One of Carpenter’s mates brings it to Australia. He Hickinbotham, noting that dark red-to-black fruit, about wine and find the Peter Fraser, who is the is a gentleman affection- believes he’s gotten pretty “it’s more of making some- and earthy, exotic flavors, synergies—and there’s a winemaker at Yangarra Es- ately known to friends and good but confessed that his thing that really works in an they’re the kind of wines tremendous amount of tate and a guy “with his ear colleagues as “Biggles,” and family would differ. area using very little water, that benefit from a few synergies—and find theto the ground,” according to the world at large as Leon “Music really drives me. because it’s the driest con- to him, was the facilitator Bignell, MP. He is a mem- It’s one of my passions tinent on earth. So the idea of the deal. He was also the ber of the South Australian outside of winemaking,” of making high volume and person who enabled the Parliament for McLaren he said. “I think you’ll see also very cheap wines from Napa veteran to take on a Vale and the former Min- this with a lot of winemak- the driest continent is sort project Down Under. ister of Agriculture, Food, ers: many are frustrated of nuts. What we do really “Pete was instrumental Wine, and Tourism for his musicians in one way or well in Australia is the cre- in bringing this into the state. another. So they realize ativity around sites, and fold, this vineyard,” re- “I’m the Bill Dodd of their creative abilities by around grape varieties that called Carpenter. “When Down Under,” the good-na- way of taste versus by way work in a given spot.” we acquired it he…thought tured politician quipped of sound. But we still reflect Between the Bordeaux it might be a good idea if I over the phone recently, back on that music side of and Rhône varieties that went over there and put my though, as a state represen- it.” Carpenter’s team in Clar- efforts into working with tative, the analogy was apt. At the end of the South- endon work with under the Cabernet planted in the Dodd, the California ern Hemisphere fall — May the Hickinbotham label, vineyard.” state Senator and Napa in Napa — Carpenter was they certainly seem to have “So I jumped at it, be- native, arranged for Bignell back home in the valley found a great place to exe- MANAGE THE WATER IN cause it was a new chal- to visit Napa Valley in 2010 and able to offer a little re- cute their boss’s plan. And AND AROUND YOUR HOME lenge. It’s a place I’ve al- while he was a Napa County flection on his most recent they know that, sooner or ways wanted to go. And supervisor. “Biggles” had Hickinbotham trip. For later, he’ll be back to help Mosquitoes Must have water in order to complete Pete’s a good mate.” come from Adelaide with a winemaker who’s been them. their lifecycle. Buckets, barrels, cans, bottles, After seven years of ex- an agenda to find out about through many harvests, he “When I leave, you know, wheelbarrows, tires, tubs, fish ponds and anything tended stays at Hickin- the Napa County Agricul- sounded measured but ec- I’m still part of the com- that will hold water is a potential mosquito- botham, with a vineyard tural Preserve, which he static. munity,” the winemaker house and a “Ute,” an Aus- hoped to emulate back “It was a great harvest. said. “That’s why I go back breeding source. Eliminate mosquito breeding by tralian pickup truck, at his home in the McLaren Vale It was unique in that we a couple times a year, to emptying and turning over any containers that disposal, Carpenter has and Barossa Valley wine re- had a couple of heat spells make sure that people are can hold water. Chlorinate and run the filter on come to think of McLaren gions. He has since done so leading up to it, which re- aware that I’m engaged in spas and swimming pools. Pick up free mosquito Vale as a home away from through separate preserva- ally took a lot of the water it and that I respect what is fish from your mosquito abatement district for home. He emphasized that tion acts that were passed out of the soil. We don’t happening. I don’t want to he hates being away his by the Parliament in 2012, irrigate that often down ever be seen as the Amer- your fish pond or water garden. family, but he has made lots both of which he backed as there, so the berries were ican who comes in and, of friends in South Austra- a legislator. really tiny, which drove a you know, anoints certain We are asking all residents to please check their lia, both in and outside of On a follow-up trip in fairly quick harvest.” things and has it all dialed property for any standing water. If you need the wine business. August 2014, which hap- He described small clus- in because of my experi- assistance contact Napa County Mosquito ters of fruit on the Hick- ence here, or I’m pushing inbotham vines, resulting the Aussies one way or Abatement District. Everyone needs to read! in a yield that was 20 to another. That’s not what To get a job! 30 percent down from his I want to do. I want to be IF YOU PREVENT MOSQUITOES BY vineyard team’s forecast. seen as somebody who

REMOVING STANDING WATER AND CeNTeR “But,” he said, “the fruit is still learning, because ELIMINATING THEIR BREEDING and the wine that we made that’s how I am.” PLACES YOU WILL: • Minimize the use of Summer Sale days! pesticides To help their To manage • Minimize the risk of children learn. their health AiR COnditiOning tunE-up West Nile Virus and • Save Money Free Reading and Writing OFFER! • Save on Utility Bills other mosquito-borne onlyonly help at Your Library • Prevent Breakdowns diseases $6500 NAPA COUNTY MOSQUITO ABATEMENT DISTRICT For more info call (707) 645-0734 707-253-4283

NAPA COUNTY LIBRARY LITeRACY wwwwww.a-1guaranteed.com.a-1guaranteed.com 707-553-9610 • www.napamosquito.org M [email protected] CA Lic. #719381 All specials expire 7/7/2019 NVR 1