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"Fabulous": Commodification and Ethnicity in Hair Braiding Salons

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Louisiana State University LSU Digital Commons LSU Doctoral Dissertations Graduate School 11-14-2017 Producing "Fabulous": Commodification and Ethnicity in Hair Braiding Salons Sylviane Ngandu-Kalenga Greensword Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_dissertations Part of the African American Studies Commons, African Languages and Societies Commons, African Studies Commons, Anthropological Linguistics and Sociolinguistics Commons, Ethnic Studies Commons, French Linguistics Commons, Language Interpretation and Translation Commons, Linguistic Anthropology Commons, Migration Studies Commons, Other International and Area Studies Commons, Other Languages, Societies, and Cultures Commons, Race and Ethnicity Commons, Social and Cultural Anthropology Commons, and the Women's Studies Commons Recommended Citation Greensword, Sylviane Ngandu-Kalenga, "Producing "Fabulous": Commodification and Ethnicity in Hair Braiding Salons" (2017). LSU Doctoral Dissertations. 4164. https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_dissertations/4164 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at LSU Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in LSU Doctoral Dissertations by an authorized graduate school editor of LSU Digital Commons. For more information, please [email protected]. PRODUCING “FABULOUS”: COMMODIFICATION AND ETHNICITY IN HAIR BRAIDING SALONS A Dissertation Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College in partial fulfillment of requirement for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in The Department of Geography and Anthropology by Sylviane Ngandu-Kalenga Greensword M.A.L.A., Louisiana State University, 2006 B.A., Louisiana State University, 2004 December 2017 To Marlon Alberetos, whose glory I will always be. 1 Cor. 11:7,15-16 ii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to thank my advisor, Dr. Joyce Marie Jackson, for the past twelve years of encouragement, support, and instruction. I am also indebted to Dr. Helen Regis and Dr. Jill Brody for their guidance and constructive criticism throughout this process. A special thanks to Andrea and Jojo for their friendship and patience. I would also like to acknowledge the U-High family for their daily encouragement. Geaux Cubs! This dissertation could not have come to fruition without the spiritual, mental, and emotional support of my family. My husband of 10 years, Marlon, to whom I dedicate this work, has been there since Day 1. I appreciate your longsuffering and constant determination to “make it happen.” All my love to my precious children Kadima, Lizzy, Malcolm, and Maarten. Twasakidila wa bungi to my father, Dr. Pius Ngandu Nkashama. Thank you for your uncompromising love and support, and thank you for setting the standard high. I cannot thank my mother enough, Maman Godé Kalenga. I am so proud to carry your name; you are an example of virtue and dedication: kulela, nkulengela. To all my sisters, un grand merci. You are the greatest cheerleaders in the world. Papy and Michel, thank you for looking after your little sister. I also acknowledge my mother-in-law, Joan “Dye” McCray who gave me a home to come to during those long days of fieldwork. To my family and friends here and abroad, thank you for being my champions! Lastly but most importantly, I want to express my love and gratitude to the Most High, Yahweh. Thank you for sending The Way, The Truth, and the Life. Amen. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................................................................................. iii LIST OF FIGURES ....................................................................................................................... iv ABSTRACT .................................................................................................................................... 1 CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................... 3 Overview ..................................................................................................................................... 2 Organization of the dissertation ................................................................................................ 15 CHAPTER 2. METHODS ............................................................................................................ 19 Overview ................................................................................................................................... 19 My personal stance .................................................................................................................... 20 Jamaica, NY and the AHBS ...................................................................................................... 21 Baton Rouge, LA ....................................................................................................................... 34 CHAPTER 3: GENEALOGIES OF BLACK BEAUTY AND THE MODERN BRAIDING INDUSTRY .................................................................................................................................. 37 History of black hair care in the Americas ................................................................................ 37 Hair and status in the 21st century ............................................................................................. 44 The hair braiding business and globalization ............................................................................ 51 Caring for natural hair ............................................................................................................... 54 The braiding salon as a space .................................................................................................... 59 CHAPTER 4. OUR DAILY BRAIDS: AFRICANNESS AND AMBIVALENCE IN BRAIDING SALON CUSTOMER SERVICE ................................................................................................. 61 Introduction ............................................................................................................................... 61 Adapting to the time zone ......................................................................................................... 64 Technique .................................................................................................................................. 67 Social interactions and stances of power ................................................................................... 71 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................. 78 CHAPTER 5. ETHNIC BRAIDING SALONS IN BATON ROUGE, LOUISIANA ................. 82 Introduction ............................................................................................................................... 82 Baton Rouge: defining the area ................................................................................................. 84 Princess African Hair Braiding (PAHB) ................................................................................... 90 Andrea’s Hair Studio (AHS) ..................................................................................................... 97 Conclusion and reflections: internationalizing African American fashion and resisting alienation ................................................................................................................................. 102 CHAPTER 6. “PARLEZ-VOUS FRENGLISH?”: THE COMMODIFICATION OF LANGUAGE AND AFRICANNESS IN AFRICAN HAIR BRAIDING SALONS ................. 104 Introduction ............................................................................................................................. 104 iv Africanization of the space: language as a vehicle of inclusion and exclusion ...................... 108 Code-switching: a Frenglish speech event ............................................................................. 113 Tensions, contradictions, and resistance: the tirade ................................................................ 120 Synthesis .................................................................................................................................. 130 CHAPTER 7. BOSSES AND HONEYBUNS: UNDERSTANDING HIERARCHICAL ORDER AND AFRICANNESS IN AFRICAN HAIR BRAIDING SALONS THROUGH THE USE OF NICKNAMES ............................................................................................................................. 133 Introduction ............................................................................................................................. 133 Acknowledging the boss ......................................................................................................... 138 Endearment nicknames ........................................................................................................... 145 Response from the nickname bearer ....................................................................................... 150 Pragmatic use of nicknames: time-efficiency and other practicality ...................................... 151 Discussion and conclusion ...................................................................................................... 155 CHAPTER 8. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS .................................................................
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