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Great Britain 13

Great Britain 13

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Great Britain

Inverness & Stirling & the Highlands & Central Scotland Islands p826 p884

#_Edinburgh p745 Glasgow & Southern Newcastle & The Lake District Scotland Northeast & Cumbria p789 ! p606 p568 Yorkshire , Liverpool p479 & Northwest England ! p533 & North Birmingham & Beacons Cambridge & p704 the Midlands & Mid-Wales ! p399 East Anglia p679 p360 ! Cardiff, ! #_ London p68 & South Wales & p639 Bath & Southwest Southeast England England & p151 p231 the p185

Oliver Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Damian Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Lorna Parkes, Andy Symington, Greg Ward, Neil Wilson PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to ENGLAND . . . . . 65 Woburn...... 225 Great Britain...... 6 LONDON ...... 68 The Thames Valley. . . . 226 Great Britain Map. . . . . 8 Windsor & Eton ...... 226 Great Britain’s Top 26. . . . 10 CANTERBURY Bray ...... 230 Need to Know...... 22 & SOUTHEAST BATH & SOUTHWEST ENGLAND ...... 151 First Time ENGLAND ...... 231 Great Britain...... 24 Kent ...... 154 ...... 235 What’s New...... 26 Canterbury ...... 154 Bath ...... 245 If You Like...... 27 Whitstable...... 158 ...... 254 Margate...... 160 Month by Month...... 31 Wells & Around...... 255 Dover ...... 165 Itineraries ...... 36 Glastonbury ...... 257 East Sussex...... 167 The Great Outdoors. . . . 42 Hampshire...... 260 Rye...... 168 Eat & Drink Winchester ...... 260 Hastings...... 171 Like a Local...... 48 ...... 263 South Downs Travel with Children. . . . 54 National Park ...... 173 Isle of Wight...... 266 Regions at a Glance. . . . 58 Lewes...... 174 ...... 271 Brighton & Hove...... 175 Bournemouth...... 271

BILLYSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK © West Sussex ...... 182 Poole...... 273 Chichester...... 183 Lulworth Cove & Around...... 275 OXFORD & THE Dorchester & Around. . . . 277 COTSWOLDS. . . . . 185 Weymouth...... 279 Oxford ...... 187 Isle of Portland...... 280 The Cotswolds . . . . . 201 Chesil Beach...... 281 Cirencester...... 202 ...... 282 Bibury...... 204 ...... 284 Burford...... 205 Wiltshire...... 285 Salisbury...... 286 CLARE COLLEGE P367, Northleach ...... 206 CAMBRIDGE The Slaughters...... 208 ...... 289 Stow-on-the-Wold . . . . . 208 Longleat...... 291 ...... 209 Lacock...... 292 CHRISNOE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Chipping Campden. . . . 210 & Around. . . . . 293 Broadway...... 211 Exmoor National Park. . . 295 Moreton-in-Marsh . . . . . 213 ...... 301 Winchcombe...... 217 Exeter...... 301 Western Torquay & Around . . . . . 307 Gloucestershire . . . . . 218 Dartmouth & Around. . .. 309 Cheltenham...... 218 Totnes & Around...... 311 Forest of Dean ...... 221 Plymouth & Around. . . . 313 Buckinghamshire, Dartmoor National Park. . . 318 & & Around. . . . 325 Hertfordshire ...... 223 SOUTH WEST COAST PATH ...... 327 St Albans...... 224 P234 Bude...... 328 Contents

Boscastle...... 329 ...... 423 Grassington...... 509 Tintagel...... 330 Worcester ...... 424 Malham ...... 511 Padstow & Rock...... 331 ...... 425 Richmond ...... 513 Newquay...... 333 Herefordshire...... 426 West Yorkshire . . . . . 514 St Ives ...... 337 Hereford...... 427 Leeds...... 514 Zennor & St Just . . . . . 341 Ledbury...... 428 Bradford...... 521 Penzance...... 343 ...... 430 Hebden Bridge...... 522 The Lizard...... 346 ...... 430 Haworth...... 524 Falmouth & Around. . . . . 347 Ironbridge Gorge...... 433 South Yorkshire . . . . . 525 Truro...... 350 . . . . . 437 Sheffield ...... 526 Fowey...... 351 ...... 438 East Riding Looe...... 353 Stretton...... 438 of Yorkshire...... 528 Bodmin Moor ...... 354 Ludlow...... 440 Hull...... 528 . . . . . 355 Nottinghamshire . . . . . 443 Beverley...... 531 Nottingham...... 443 MANCHESTER, CAMBRIDGE & Lincolnshire...... 449 EAST ANGLIA. . . . . 360 LIVERPOOL & Lincoln...... 449 NORTHWEST . . . . . 361 Boston...... 453 ENGLAND ...... 533 Cambridge...... 364 Stamford...... 454 Manchester...... 536 Ely...... 376 Leicestershire...... 455 ...... 548 ...... 378 ...... 455 Liverpool...... 551 Colchester...... 378 Rutland ...... 460 Southend-On-Sea ...... 381 ...... 561 ...... 461 Blackpool...... 561 ...... 382 Derby...... 461 Lancaster...... 562 Long Melford...... 382 Matlock Bath...... 464 Ribble Valley...... 564 Lavenham...... 384 Chesterfield...... 466 Isle of Man...... 565 Bury St Edmunds...... 384 Peak District...... 466 ...... 386 Buxton...... 469 THE LAKE DISTRICT Southwold...... 387 Castleton...... 472 & CUMBRIA. . . . . 568 Norfolk...... 388 Bakewell...... 476 The Lake District. . . . 572 Norwich...... 388 Windermere & Around . . . 572 Cromer...... 391 YORKSHIRE. . . . . 479 Ambleside...... 577 King’s Lynn...... 397 North Yorkshire. . . . 483 Grasmere...... 580 York...... 483 Hawkshead...... 582 BIRMINGHAM & Harrogate ...... 492 Coniston ...... 584 THE MIDLANDS. . . 399 Scarborough...... 495 Birmingham...... 402 Elterwater & North York Moors Great Langdale...... 586 ...... 410 National Park ...... 498 Cockermouth ...... 588 Coventry ...... 410 Helmsley...... 499 Keswick...... 589 Kenilworth...... 412 Pickering...... 502 Borrowdale...... 592 Warwick...... 413 ...... 502 Buttermere...... 593 Stratford-upon-Avon. . . . 415 Yorkshire Dales Ullswater & Around. . . . . 595 ...... 421 National Park ...... 507 Kendal ...... 596 Lichfield...... 421 Skipton...... 507 ON THE ROAD

Cumbrian Coast. . . . . 598 (Dinbych Barmouth (Abermaw). . . 713 Northern & Y Pysgod) ...... 668 Harlech ...... 714 Eastern Cumbria. . . 600 Narberth (Arberth). . . . . 670 Blaenau Ffestiniog. . . . . 715 Carlisle...... 600 St Davids (Tyddewi). . . . 671 Betws-y-Coed...... 716 Penrith...... 602 & Around. . . . 674 Llanberis...... 718 (Abergwaun). . .. 676 Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa). . . . 720 NEWCASTLE & Newport (Trefdraeth) . . . 677 NORTHEAST Beddgelert...... 722 ENGLAND ...... 606 BRECON BEACONS Llŷn Peninsula . . . . . 723 Porthmadog ...... 724 Newcastle-upon-Tyne . . . 610 & MID-WALES. . . . 679 Aberdaron...... 726 ...... 617 Brecon Beacons The North Coast. . . . . 727 Durham ...... 618 National Park ...... 681 Caernarfon ...... 727 Barnard ...... 621 Hay-on-Wye (Y Gelli Gandryll). . . . . 681 Bangor...... 729 Hadrian’s Wall...... 622 Black Mountains Conwy ...... 732 (Y Mynyddoedd Duon). . . . 684 National Park ...... 628 Llandudno...... 736 Isle of Anglesey Northumberland (Crughywel) ...... 685 Coast ...... 629 (Ynys Môn) ...... 739 Brecon (Aberhonddu). . . . 686 Beaumaris (Biwmares). . . . 739 Fforest Fawr & Holyhead (Caergybi). . . . 741 WALES...... 637 Black Mountain ...... 689 CARDIFF, ...... 690 PEMBROKESHIRE Wells SCOTLAND. . . . 743 & SOUTH WALES. . . . 639 (Llanwrtyd)...... 691 EDINBURGH. . . . . 745 Cardiff ...... 641 (Llanfair-Ym-Muallt). . . .. 692 GLASGOW & Monmouthshire (Sir Fynwy) ...... 652 SOUTHERN (Rhaeadr Gwy)...... 693 SCOTLAND. . . . . 789 Chepstow (Cas-gwent). . . . 653 Montgomery...... 694 Glasgow...... 792 Lower ...... 653 (Y Trallwng). . .. 695 Borders Region. . . . . 812 Abergavenny (Y Fenni). . . . 654 ...... 696 Peebles ...... 812 South Wales Valleys. . .. 656 Ceredigion...... 698 Melrose ...... 813 Blaenavon Aberystwyth...... 698 (Blaenafon)...... 656 Jedburgh...... 815 Aberaeron...... 701 Swansea Bay Kelso...... 816 Cardigan (Aberteifi). . . .. 702 & the Gower ...... 658 Dumfries & Galloway. . .. 817 Swansea (Abertawe). . . . 658 SNOWDONIA & Dumfries...... 817 The Mumbles South of Dumfries. . . . . 819 (Y Mwmbwls) ...... 661 NORTH WALES. . . .. 704 Kirkcudbright...... 819 Gower Peninsula North Wales (Y Gŵyr)...... 662 Borderlands...... 706 Galloway Forest Park. . . . 821 Carmarthenshire Ruthin...... 706 Rhinns of Galloway . . . . . 822 (Sir Gaerfyddin). . . . . 665 Llangollen ...... 707 Llanarthne...... 665 Snowdonia National STIRLING & CENTRAL Llandeilo ...... 665 Park (Parc SCOTLAND. . . . . 826 Cenedlaethol Eryri). . . 710 Pembrokeshire. . . . . 667 Stirling...... 827 Dolgellau...... 710 ...... 667 Fife...... 835 Contents

UNDERSTAND

St Andrews ...... 836 Pitlochry ...... 903 Great Britain Today. . . 962 East Neuk ...... 840 Blair Castle...... 905 History...... 965 Dunfermline ...... 844 Lochs Tummel The British Table . . . . 983 Culross...... 844 & Rannoch...... 905 Dundee & Angus. . . . . 845 Loch Tay...... 905 Architecture in Britain...... 990 Dundee...... 845 West Highlands...... 906 Arbroath ...... 849 Glen Coe ...... 906 The Arts...... 995 Aberdeenshire. . . . . 850 Fort William...... 907 The British Aberdeen...... 850 Road to the Isles . . . . . 910 Landscape...... 1006 Moray...... 855 Caithness...... 913 Sporting Britain. . . . . 1013 Elgin...... 855 Wick...... 913 Dufftown & Aberlour. . . . 856 John O’Groats...... 914 Loch Lomond Mey...... 914 & the Trossachs . . . . . 856 Dunnet Head...... 914 Argyllshire...... 861 Thurso & Scrabster. . . . 915 Oban...... 861 North & West Coast. . . 916 SURVIVAL Mull...... 864 Durness...... 917 GUIDE Iona...... 868 Ullapool...... 920 Inveraray...... 869 Skye...... 926 Directory A–Z...... 1018 Kilmartin Glen...... 870 Armadale...... 928 Transport...... 1026 Kintyre...... 871 Broadford (An Glossary...... 1033 Islay ...... 873 T-Ath Leathann)...... 929 Index...... 1038 Jura...... 876 Cuillin Hills ...... 929 Arran...... 877 Portree (Port Righ). . . . . 929 Map Legend...... 1054 Brodick & Around...... 878 Dunvegan (Dun Bheagain) ...... 931 Lochranza...... 879 Trotternish...... 931 South Coast ...... 880 Outer Hebrides. . . . . 932 Lamlash...... 881 Lewis (Leodhais) ...... 933 INVERNESS & Harris (Na Hearadh). . . . 936 THE HIGHLANDS Barra (Barraigh)...... 941 & ISLANDS...... 884 Orkney...... 942 Inverness & Kirkwall ...... 944 the Great Glen ...... 885 West & North SPECIAL Inverness...... 885 Mainland ...... 947 FEATURES Stromness...... 949 Loch Ness...... 892 The River Thames The Cairngorms. . . . . 895 Hoy...... 950 Illustration ...... 74 Northern Islands . . . . . 951 Aviemore...... 896 Kingussie & Shetland ...... 952 Floor Plan...... 78 Newtonmore...... 899 Lerwick...... 955 Rosslyn Royal Deeside...... 900 Sumburgh...... 958 Illustration ...... 784 Highland Perthshire. . .. 902 The North Isles...... 959 Dunkeld & Birnam. . . . . 902 Illustration ...... 830 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 36

Itineraries

EDINBURGH #_ SCOTLAND

É Hadrian's Wall #•

NORTHERN É IRELAND Lake÷# Yorkshire N O R T H District ÷#Dales S E A É #•York I r i s h

S e a É É Chatsworth #• House

IRELAND Snowdonia÷# É National Park

É ENGLAND #•Cambridge WALES É Cotswolds

Brecon Beacons ÷# É #• Oxford

#•

É National Park É #_LONDON

Bath #• É #• Stonehenge & BELGIUM Avebury

FRANCE

2 WEEKS Best of Britain

This circular whistle-stop tour ticks off Britain’s greatest hits in an action-packed fortnight. Start with at least three days exploring Britain’s greatest city, London, seeing the world-famous sights: , Tower Bridge, Trafalgar Sq, the British Mu- seum and more. From the capital, head west for the dreaming spires of England’s oldest university city, Oxford, before touring the lovely villages of the Cotswolds. Detour south to see Stonehenge, the nation’s most celebrated , and its lesser-known counterpart Avebury, then head onwards to the Georgian city of Bath. From here, skip across the border through two Welsh national parks: the Brecon Bea- cons and Snowdonia, where you can climb Wales’ highest mountain. Head back into England and travel north to walk the fells of the Lake District, beloved by William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter. From here, it’s easy to explore ’s most ambitious engineering project, the 73-mile Hadrian’s Wall, before the drive north to Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh. On the long journey back south, drive through the rolling hills and valleys of the Yorkshire Dales, visit the handsome city of York and its medieval minster, marvel at the majesty of Chats- worth House, or wander around the colleges and punt along the Backs of Cambridge. 37

Isle of

Skye#• É SCOTLAND Fort William #•RBen Nevis Stirling

É Castle #•

EDINBURGH TRIP YOUR PLAN #• #_ Glasgow Melrose Southern #•

Uplands #•Jedburgh É #•Newcastle-upon-Tyne NORTHERN IRELAND

É N O R T H S E A #•York I r i s h

S e a Manchester It Liverpool É #• #• Conwy i nerar IRELAND #• É ÷# Caernarfon #• #• Peak District

Chester Snowdonia ÷# É Shrewsbury WALES #• ENGLAND

Ludlow Hay-on- É Breacon #• #•Warwick i es Beacons Wye #• NETHERLANDS #• É Stratford-

Pembrokeshire÷# É ÷# upon-Avon Coast É Cotswolds Bristol LONDON #_ #• #•Avebury #_ É CARDIFF #• #•Canterbury

Bath #•Stonehenge

#• #• Winchester É BELGIUM Salisbury É ÷# #• New Forest Brighton FRANCE

1 MONTH The Full Monty

This is the big one: covering all points of the compass and all three mainland nations, it’s the full-blown round-Britain adventure. After a day or two in London, head southeast to Canterbury, then along the coast to hip and happening Brighton. For a change of pace, divert to the New Forest, then up to historic Winchester and Salisbury, with their awe-inspiring . Next, reli- gion of a different kind: the ancient stone circles at Stonehenge and Avebury. Go west to Bath, with its grand Georgian architecture, Roman remains and famous spas, and then over the border to Wales, via the energetic little cities of Bristol and Cardiff. Head west to fall in love with the scenery of the Pembrokeshire Coast, and backtrack through to the whaleback hills of the Brecon Beacons to reach the quirky book-mad town of Hay-on-Wye. Then it’s back into England to visit Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon, and impressive at Warwick, Ludlow and Shrewsbury. Cross back into Wales via the stunning mountains of Snowdonia, then round the coast via the dramatic cas- tles of Caernarfon and Conwy. Back in England once again, have a wander round the medieval walls of Chester en route to Liverpool, with its famous musical heritage and revitalised waterfront, or Manchester, for a taste of northern nightlife. Cross over the moors and hills of the Peak District, admire the marvellous York Minster in York, and finish your English adventure in Newcastle-upon-Tyne, with its galleries, museums and Antony Gorm- ley’s monumental Angel of the North sculpture. Hop over Hadrian’s Wall en route to the historic towns of Jedburgh and Mel- rose in Scotland. Stop off for a few days in Edinburgh, then head west via Stirling Castle to good-time Glasgow. Then trek to Fort William (and maybe up Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain), from where it’s easy to reach journey’s end on the beautiful Isle of Skye. 38

SCOTLAND Dunnet Duncansby Arnol Head Head Blackhouse

GlasgowS I•#N C L A I R ' S N O R T H Callanish •# CAITHNESS B AY É S E A FLOW Standing •# •#Stornoway PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN COUNTRY N O R T H Stones É S E A •# Lewis Newcastle- f# •# upon-Tyne É D O R N O C H Ullapool •# •# F I R T H •#Gateshead Harris•# Tarbet

É •# É Berneray M O R AY R ATÉ T R AY F I R T H B AY

y •# North Uist e p •#Leeds •# S y É Inverness pe •# S Liverpool•#

It n Manchester •# South Uist y o

e v Don p A i nerar S ee É •# Cairngorms D Barra National Park SCOTLAND No •# rt Grampian E h Birmingham sk

i es Mountains WALES LUÉN A N f# B AY ENGLAND SouthM O N T R O S E

Esk B A S I N É #_ CARDIFF •#Bristol •# Oban F I R T H Earn O F TAY

F I R T H O F F O R T H Lammermuir 10 3 DAYS Island Hopscotch WEEKS Urban Odyssey

This route is usually done by car, but it Take this ride through some of Britain’s also makes a brilliant cycling tour (270 less well-known and revitalised cities. miles, including the 60 miles from Ulla­ Kick off in , a city with fierce pool to Inverness train station, making and a rich historical legacy, then both start and finish accessible by rail). cross over to Cardiff, once a provincial From Oban it’s a five-hour ferry cross- backwater but now the lively Welsh capital. ing to ; plan to spend the night here Barra Next stop is , oozing (book ahead). On day two, after a visit Birmingham transformation, with a renovated water- to Kisimul Castle and a tour around the side, energised museums and a space-age island, take the ferry to . Walk South Uist shopping centre. Onwards to , where the wild beaches of the west coast, sample Leeds run-down factories and warehouses have the local seafood and perhaps go fish- been turned into loft apartments, ritzy ing on the island’s trout lochs. Continue boutiques and stylish department stores. through Benbecula and North Uist, prime birdwatching country. Shopping not your thing? No problem. Head for and Overnight at Lochmaddy on North Uist Newcastle-upon-Tyne twin city ; both have given up (if you’re camping or hostelling, a night at Gateshead on heavy industries in favour of art and is a must) before taking the ferry Berneray architecture, and are famous for partying. to Harris, whose west coast has some of the most spectacular beaches in Scotland. The Still want more? It’s got to be Glasgow, road continues north from Tarbert (good Scotland’s other great city, boasting fabu- hotels) through rugged hills to Lewis. lous galleries and welcoming pubs. Then it’s south to , which has rein- Don’t go directly to Stornoway, but loop Liverpool vented itself as a cultural hot spot, with west via the Callanish Standing Stones a famous musical heritage. Finish your and museum. Spend Arnol Blackhouse tour in , a long-time stage for your final night in (eat at Dig- Manchester Stornoway artistic endeavour, with dramatic architec- by Chick), then take the ferry to Ullapool ture and a rather well-known football club. for a scenic drive to Inverness. 39 TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es TIMSNOW/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Callanish Standing Stones (p935) Bottom: Beaumaris Castle (p740) 40

Ullapool É #• Glen Torridon Inverness c Skye #• #•Speyside É#• É Plockton É Highland Fling #•Cairngorms N O R T H Mallaig #• Fort William S E A #•

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Edge of England Glenfinnan #•RBen Nevis

Glen Coe c É Callander Loch Lomond & ÷# #• Stirling

the Trossachs #• EDINBURGH É #_ Glasgow#• #• #• Castle SCOTLAND #•

Northumberland NORTHERN É

It IRELAND North #• Whitby i nerar York ÷# Moors I r i s h S e a ENGLAND i es

É Wells-next- IRELAND the-Sea #• The Fens #• Norfolk The ÷# Broads #•Southwold Lavenham #• É #•Aldeburgh Sudbury #• Colchester #•

2 2 WEEKS Highland Fling WEEKS Edge of England

This itinerary is a tour of Scotland’s finest If you like the outdoors, and prefer flocks and most famous sights. of birds to crowds of people, try this back- water route along England’s eastern fringe. Naturally it starts in Edinburgh, where highlights include the renowned castle, as Start in Colchester, then head out into well as the Royal Mile and the haunts of the the sleepy county of Suffolk, where quaint Old Town. Hop over to Glasgow for a day or villages and market towns such as Sud- two as well, then head northeast to see Scot- bury and Lavenham dot the landscape, land’s other great castle at Stirling. Next while along the coast are wildlife reserves, stop is Callander, a good base for exploring shingly beaches, fishing ports such as the hills and lochs of the Trossachs. Aldeburgh, and the delightfully retro Continue north and the landscape be- seaside resort of Southwold. comes ever more impressive, culminating Things get even quieter in Norfolk, es- in the grandeur of Glen Coe. Keen hill pecially around the misty lakes and wind- walkers will pause for a day at Fort Wil- mill-lined rivers of the Broads. For beach liam to trek to the top of Ben Nevis (and strolls or historic country pubs, head for another day to recover!) before taking the the coastal villages near Wells-next-the- ‘Road to the Isles’ past glorious Glenfin- Sea. Across the border in Lincolnshire lies nan to the fishing harbour of Mallaig. the eerie, pan-flat landscape of the Fens, now a haven for otters and birdlife. Take the ferry to the Isle of Skye, then head back to the mainland via the Skye Continue into the heather-clad North Bridge to reach pretty Plockton and York Moors, where humpbacked hills roll magnificent Glen Torridon. Travelling all the way to the coast to drop dramatically onwards, via Ullapool, takes you to the re- into the North Sea, and spend some time in mote mountain landscape of Scotland’s far the atmospheric seaside town of Whitby. northwest, then continue to Highland capi- Enjoy a blustery stroll on the wild coast of tal Inverness. Conclude with a memorable Northumberland near the landmark castles drive through the and a tour Cairngorms of Dunstanburgh and Bamburgh, then of the whisky distilleries of . Speyside end at the holy island of Lindisfarne. 41

Isle of Anglesey Llandudno #• #•

Beaumaris Castle #• É Conwy Llangollen IRELAND #• PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Harlech #• ÷# Snowdonia

É Machynlleth #• Aberystwyth #• ENGLAND WALES

É Brecon #•Hay-on-Wye Beacons St Davids #• ÷##• Abergavenny Pembrokeshire #•

#•Wye Valley É #• It #• Chepstow

Gower Peninsula #_ i nerar #•Bristol

CARDIFF É Exmoor ÷# É É Glastonbury #• É #• Shaftesbury Dorset i es Tintagel Devon

#• É ÷# Jurassic

Newquay #• Dartmoor Coast É #• St Ives Eden Project #• Cornwall Welsh Wander #• Land's #• St 's Way Out West End Mount

1 2 WEEK Welsh Wander WEEKS Way Out West

The coast and countryside of Wales has The southwest of England takes a bit of long been a favourite with visitors, and this effort to reach but repays in full with a tour includes most of the hot spots. Con- rich green landscape dotted with hills and tinue along England’s southwest coast for a moors, surrounded by glistening seas. longer jaunt along Britain’s Celtic fringe. Start in Bristol, the capital of the West Start in Cardiff, with its fantastical cas- Country, then saunter south to reach Glas- tle, gigantic rugby stadium, revitalised wa- tonbury – famous for its annual music terfront and stunning Millennium Centre. festival and the best place to stock up on Head west via the beautiful Gower Pen- candles or crystals at any time of year. insula to reach the clear waters and sandy West leads to the walking trails of heath- beaches of Pembrokeshire. Don’t miss the ery Exmoor, then it’s south to Dorset, ancient at – Britain’s St Davids where highlights include picturesque Shaft- smallest city. Continue up the coast to Ab- esbury and the fossil-strewn Jurassic Coast. erystwyth, then through ‘alternative’ Ma- chynlleth to reach Harlech and its ancient Onwards into Devon, and there’s a choice castle. Divert to the tranquil Isle of Anglesey of coasts, as well as Dartmoor, the highest and historic Beaumaris Castle, then strike and wildest hills in southern Britain. through the mountains of Snowdonia to Cross into Cornwall to explore the bio- reach Conwy (for another stunning castle) domes of the Eden Project. Nearby, but in and the seaside resort of Llandudno. another era entirely, is the legendary birth- Southwards takes you through Llangol- place of King Arthur, the castle at Tintagel. len, with its jolly steam trains and vertigi- Depending on your tastes, you can hang-ten nous aqueduct, then along the England– in surf-flavoured party-town Newquay or Wales borderlands to book-mad Hay-on- browse the galleries at artistic St Ives. Wye. Loop inland via Brecon Beacons to The natural finish to this wild west tour the Welsh foodie capital of Abergavenny, is Land’s End, where the British mainland then saunter down the Wye Valley to comes to a final full stop – but it’s well finish at the frontier town of Chepstow – worth visiting the amazing island abbey at and yet another amazing castle. St Michael’s Mount. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1036

Behind the Scenes

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WRITER THANKS Damian Harper Oliver Berry Many thanks to Ann Harper, Jasmin Tonge, Kevin and Maki Fallows, Rosemary Hadow, Lily Greensmith, As always I’ve thoroughly enjoyed exploring my Antonia Mavromatidou, Arabella Sneddon, Bill Moran, homeland for this update, and I’d like to extend a big Jim Peake, my ever-helpful co-authors and a big debt thanks to everyone who’s helped me along the way of gratitude again to Daisy, Tim and Emma. (you know who you are). I’d particularly like to thank all my co-authors for their hard work and help, and Catherine Le Nevez Cliff Wilkinson for sage advice, feedback and gener- Cheers first and foremost to Julian, and to all of the ally keeping the England ship on course. A special locals, fellow travellers and tourism professionals thanks also to Rosie Hillier for supporting me, putting throughout Northeast England, the Midlands and the up with long days and nights spent at the computer Marches for insights, information and good times. and providing emergency cups of tea when they were Huge thanks too to Destination Editor Cliff Wilkinson most needed. and the Great Britain team, and everyone at LP. As Marc Di Duca ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle- sœur, neveu and nièce. Huge thanks to Tanya at home in the Czech Republic for holding the fort, to Emy and David in Sandwich, Hugh McNaughtan to Gemma and Dave in Amesbury and to all the many Criss-crossing Wales in the golden summer of 2018 employees at the various tourist offices across Kent was a magical experience. For those who showered and Sussex who helped me along the way. me with friendliness, generosity and inside tips Belinda Dixon along the way – thanks!; to Cliff and the LP team for editorial and technical guidance – thanks!; and Researching and writing for Lonely Planet is a real to Tasmin, Maise and Willa for endless support and joint effort – so huge thanks to the locals who share encouragement, thank you. their time, knowledge and recommendations and to the random strangers who offer countless kind- Lorna Parkes nesses. And thank you to Cliff for the gig, LP’s behind Thanks to the many friendly folk of Yorkshire for their the scenes teams (so much work!), and fellow writers chats, advice and excellent beer-making. And to Rob, for humour, wisdom and travellers’ tales. Austin and Lily for letting me drag them all over the Dales and east coast, come rain or shine (but mostly rain). 1037 Andy Symington Neil Wilson It’s always a huge pleasure to enjoy the very Thanks to the friendly and helpful tourist office generous hospitality of Jenny Neil and Brendan staff all over the Highlands; to Steven Fallon, Bolland, and to work with Neil Wilson, Cliff Wilkin- Keith Jeffrey, Fiona Garven, Derek McCrindle, son and the excellent LP team. Numerous other Brendan Bolland, Jenny Neil, Tom and Christine people have been very generous with time and Duffin, Steve Hall, Elaine Simpson, Peter Fallon information. I’d particularly like to thank Robin and Duncan Pepper; and, as ever, to Carol Downie. SCENES THE BEHIND Mitchell, Maggie Maguire, Graeme Campbell, Jen Thanks also to James Smart and the editorial team Stewart and the staff at many tourist information at Lonely Planet. offices, especially Judith and Janice at Bowmore, Sheona at John O’Groats, Susan at Callander and Neil at Kirkwall. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Greg Ward BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Thanks to the many people who helped me as I the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- pounded the streets of Oxford and criss-crossed ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. the Cotswolds, and thanks especially to Adrian, Cover photograph: Neist Point, Isle of Skye, Colin Michael and Donald Ward for their Oxford memo- Threlfall/Alamy © ries and expertise. Thanks too to my editor Clifton Wilkinson for giving me this opportunity, and to my Illustrations: pp94–5, pp624–5, pp750–1, pp784–5 dear wife, Sam, for sharing so many adventures and pp830–1 by Javier Zarracina, pp74–5 by Javier and late nights. Zarracina and Michael Weldon.

Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh ber, Michelle Bennett, Nigel THIS BOOK McNaughtan, Isabella Noble, Chin, Katie Connolly, Lucy This 13th edition of Lonely Andy Symington and Neil Cowie, Michelle Coxall, Jacque- Planet’s Great Britain guide- Wilson. This guidebook was line Danam, Andrea Dobbin, book was curated by Oliver produced by the following: Kellie Langdon, Lou McGregor, Berry, and researched and Destination Editors James Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, written by Oliver, Fionn Smart, Clifton Wilkinson Sarah Stewart Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Senior Product Editor Cartographer Rachel Imeson Belinda Dixon, Damian Harper, Genna Patterson Cover Researcher Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh Product Editor Naomi Parker McNaughtan, Lorna Parkes, Kathryn Rowan Thanks to Ian Grundy, John Andy Symington, Greg Ward Harper, Elizabeth Jones, Laura and Neil Wilson. The previous Senior Cartographer Mark Griffiths Manago, Alison Ridgway, edition was written by Oliver Michael Weldon, Amanda Book Designer Clara Monitto Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Williamson Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Peter Assisting Editors Sarah Bai- Dragicevich, Damian Harper, ley, Andrew Bain, Judith Bam- ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1038

Index

A Aberdaron 726-7 archaeological sites, see Broughton House 820 abbeys, & Aberdeen 850-5, 852-3 also Roman sites, ruins Gallery of Modern Art 28-9 Aberdeenshire 850-5 Avebury Stone Circle 293 793-4 Abbey Gardens 384-5 Abergavenny 654-6 Banks Chambered Tomb Hepworth Wakefield 519 947 Arbroath Abbey 849 Aberlour 856 Humber St Gallery 529 Barnhouse 247 Abersoch 726 Hunterian Art Gallery 799 Village 949 171 Aberystwyth 698-701, Kelvingrove Art Gallery & 699 Dryburgh Abbey 814 Museum 797 accessible travel 1018 217 Dunfermline Abbey & Leach Pottery 338-9 accommodation 1018-21, Broch of Gurness 948 Palace 844 see also individual Leeds Art Gallery 516 Callanish Standing Stones Forde Abbey 283 locations Manchester Art Gallery 935, 39 Fountains Abbey 495 activities 42-7, 605, , 537, 540 44 Dunadd Fort 870 257-8 47, 604-5, see also Manx Museum & National Jarlshof 958 Art Gallery 566 Great Malvern 426 individual activities Maeshowe 948 Millennium Gallery 526 Abbey 624, Adele 1002 Maiden Castle 277 MOMA Machynlleth 696 628, 624 air travel 1026, 1028 Ness of Brodgar 948-9 Holyrood Abbey 761, 764 Aldeburgh 386-7 National Gallery 80 Old Sarum 287-8 Hailes Abbey 217-18 Alderney 175 National Portrait Gallery Old Scatness 958 87 Iona Abbey 869 Alnwick 629-36 948 Oriel y Parc 672 Jedburgh Abbey 815 Ambleside 577-80 Stones 209 Oriel Ynys Môn 739 Kelso Abbey 816 amusement parks Penlee House Gallery & Alton Towers 421 948 Kirkstall Abbey 516 Museum 343 Blackpool Pleasure Beach Standing Stones of Lacock Abbey 292 Potteries Museum & Art 561-2 Stenness 949 Lindisfarne Priory 634 Gallery 422 Blackpool Tower 561 Stonehenge 11, 289-91, Llanthony Priory 685, 7 , Royal Academy of Arts 87 Dreamland 160 290 10-11 Melrose Abbey 814 947 Royal Cambrian Academy Heights of Abraham 465 Newstead Abbey 442 architecture 990-4 734 Legoland Windsor Rievaulx Abbey 499-500 area codes 1024 Scottish National Gallery 56, 56 758 Shaftesbury Abbey 285 Argyllshire 861-77 Angus 845-50 Scottish National Gallery 430 Arisaig 912 animals, see wildlife of Modern Art 765 St Augustine’s Abbey 156 Armadale 928 Anstruther 841-2 Scottish National Portrait St Davids ’s Palace Arran 877-81, 878 672 Applecross 924-5 Gallery 757-8 aquariums art galleries 29, see also Tate Britain 86 St Michael’s Mount 343 museums St Non’s Bay 672 Blue Planet Aquarium Tate Liverpool 555 548 Hall Art Gallery 596 Tintern Abbey 654 Tate Modern 26, 75, Blue Reef Aquarium 334 Aberdeen Art Gallery 851 96, 75 Tynemouth Priory 617 Bristol Aquarium 238 Arnolfini 238 Tate St Ives 26, 337-8 Valle Crucis Abbey 707 Deep, the 528 BALTIC – Centre for Turner Contemporary 160 437 Contemporary Art 611 Lakes Aquarium 573-4 Walker Art Gallery 554 503-4 Barber Institute of Fine National Marine Aquarium Wallace Collection 87 Abbey 76-7 Arts 403-4 315 Whitechapel Gallery Aberaeron 701-2 Beatrix Potter Gallery 583 National Sea Life Centre 107-8 Berwick Barracks 635 403 Whitworth Art Gallery 541 Birmingham Museum & SEA LIFE Brighton 178 Yorkshire Sculpture Art Gallery 403 Map Pages 000 Sea Life Sanctuary 497 Park 519 Brighton Museum & Art Photo Pages 000 Arbroath 849-50 arts 995-1005 Gallery 177 INDEX A-C 1039

,

7 1 - 83 - , 6 80 6 , - 243 - 4 - 244 9 96 - - 240 7 81 396 5 77 - 3 995 240 - 248 , - 529 384 , 223 731 657 176 243 244 3 79 5

40 21 - , 470 2 9 1028 , - 92 - 1023 236

265 - - 244 , , 524 818 , 13 265 433 177 936 9 - 82 6 9 - 78 - 72 692 - , 244 593 Great Britain Great 161 - 239 727 45 239 8 - 711 3 438 - - - 929 9 1027 211 235 21 - 654 175 309

235 , 878 205 7 469 357 241 - 235 328 Bridge Bridge 1030 78-9 235 accommodation accommodation activities drinking & nightlife entertainment & events festivals food history shopping sights information tourist to/from travel within travel Clifton Suspension Suspension Clifton Bridge Humber Bridge Iron Bridge Millennium Bridge Pulteney Bridge Tower C Burnham Deepdale Burnham Deepdale Robert Burns, St Edmunds Bury bus travel hours business Lewis of Butt Buttermere Buxton Cader Idris Caerleon Caerphilly Bryher Buckingham Palace Buckinghamshire Hard Buckler’s Bude 23 budget Builth Wells Burford Brighton Brighton Pier Brighton Bristol British landscape British Museum Brixham Broadford Broadstairs Broadway Brockenhurst Brodick sisters Brontë SS Brunel’s Bridgnorth , 878 8 - 17 682 35 - 679 119 , 5 3 680 - , -

679 187 , 3 90 734 812 - - 30 118 5 271 - 2 354 361 - 2 , 387 - 999 1000 895 - 680 885 9 4 681 592 - - 922 3 920 590 619 508 955 - 115 329 679 874 325 193 521 900 862 686 453 679 864 940 962 962 230 189 Company 441 Company 420 Park 61, 61, Park 687 Southwold Southwold 340 Brewery St Ives 477 Brewery Thornbridge Sighs (Oxford) of Bridge accommodation accommodation climate food highlights seasons travel 387 Adnams 455 Brewery All Saints Pig 305 Fat 576 Brewery Hawkshead 134 Hops Howling Brewery Arran Isle of 588 Brewery Jennings Brewing Ludlow Centre National Brewery Durham Durham Anglia East Gairloch Inverness Keswick Lerwick Ness Loch London Mull Oban Oxford Skipton Uist Ullapool Brexit Brexit bridges breweries Bond, James James Bond, books Region Borders Borrowdale Boscastle Boston Bournemouth David Bowie, Bowmore Bradford Braemar Gathering Braemar Braunton Bray Brecon National Beacons Brecon Bodleian Library Library Bodleian Moor Bodmin Estate Bodnant - 6 - 7 , 39 16 - -

1 , 409 336 10 - 10 635 - 5 - , 557, 406 - 28 715 406 672

18 , 740 6 - cycling 333 - 409 200 409 346 555 402 3 440 41 684 7 , 899 - 410 - - 728 2 7 716 5 40 909 see 40 992 937 - - 274 370 5 - - 223 737 2

- - 59 , 3 726 - 90 905 409 5 394 8 - 1 - 722 7 739 - - - 656 - 981 561 686 987 939 394 239 9 531 402 5 , - 80 46 406 - 902 689 249 407 204 964 162 408 Du) Du) doed Duon) 404 1000 Bristol Bristol Cambridge Bath Bath Blakeney Brecon festivals & events & events festivals food shopping sights information tourist tours to/from travel within travel accommodation accommodation drinking & nightlife entertainment Perranporth Beach Beach Perranporth Oer Porth Sandbanks Bay Whitesands Dinas Dinlle Dinlle Dinas Cove Kynance Llandudno Luskentyre Blair, Tony Tony Blair, Blakeney Blenheim Palace blogs Garten of Boat boating Bishop’s Castle Castle Bishop’s Mynydd (Y Mountain Black Mynyd (Y Mountains Black Blackpool Blaenau Ffestiniog Blaenavon Blair Castle Birnam Bibury Bibury travel, bicycle Big Ben Birmingham Bedfordshire Bedfordshire Steps Bedruthan beer 28, Nevis Ben Berneray Berwick-upon-Tweed Betws-y-Coed Beverley Beatles, the 112, the 112, Beatles, Beaumaris Castle Beaumaris Beddgelert 16 12 7 - - , 272 253 254 715 97 166 249 5 36 246 - 250 - 404 , 977 867 253 5 254 901 - 54 938 294 281 621 - 701 727 251

254 765 14 8 ,

- 240 - , 8 9 6 - , - 3 - 32 254 7 - 3 249 245 20 - 1024 464 - - 633 1016 - , 713 251 896 245 646 706 846 476 245 1007 293 182 900 59 249 166 729 946 252 919 , 171 941 1022 12 723 989 Arts Arts Workshop Bournemouth Beach Beach Bournemouth Beach Calgary Beach Chesil travel within travel walking sights sights information tourist tours to/from travel festivals & events & events festivals food history shopping accommodation accommodation activities drinking & nightlife entertainment Talla na Mara na Mara Talla Edinburgh Sculpture Sculpture Edinburgh Ruthin Centre Southbank Blaenau Ffestiniog Ffestiniog Blaenau Cardiff Factory Custard Contemporary Dundee Aberystwyth Aberystwyth B beaches beaches bathrooms bathrooms Battle Culloden of Battle Bath Bath Barmouth Barmouth Castle Barnard Barra bars Bangor Bangor Banksy Mural Brexit Banksy Island Bardsey Bakewell Bakewell Bala Ballater Castle Balmoral Bamburgh Aviemore Aviemore the ba’, Assynt Assynt ATMs Jane 247-8 Austen, Avebury Arundel Ashbourne the Ashes, arts centres arts 1040 Cairngorm Mountain 898 Cardigan 702-3 Dunvegan Castle 931, Stirling Castle 21, 827, Cairngorms National Park Carlisle 600-2 882 830-3, 21, 830 895-902, 896 Carmarthenshire 665-6 Durham Castle 618-19 Sudeley Castle 217 Caithness 913-16 Carreg Cennen 689 Earl’s Palace 944 Tintagel Castle 330 Caldey Island 668-9 Cartmel 599 748-9, 14, Callander 858-60 678 750, 750 91-2, 94-5, 94-5, 14,

INDEX INDEX , Callanish 935 Castle Howard 16, 492, 16 Eilean Donan Castle 925 94 95 Tretower Court & Castle Callanish Standing Stones castles & palaces 27, 991 844 685-6 935, 39 Alnwick Castle 629-30 Fishbourne 183 Urquhart Castle 892, C Calton Hill 757 Glamis Castle 848  Arundel Castle 182 894 Cambrian Mountains 691 Audley End House & Warwick Castle 413 Cambridge 17, 59, 364-76, Gardens 380 115, 116-7, 116-7, White Castle 652, 2 366, 2, 17 901 116, 117 227-8 accommodation 372-3 633 Harlech Castle 715 Wolvesey Castle 261-2 activities 370 Barnard Castle 621 Helmsley Castle 500 Wray Castle 572 drinking & nightlife 375 Beaumaris Castle Hermitage Castle 814 Castleton 472-3 entertainment 375-6 740, 39 Inveraray Castle 869-70 cathedrals, see churches & festivals & events 372 Berkeley Castle 217 Inverness Castle 885 cathedrals food 373-5 ’ Palace 451 Kenilworth Castle 412 caves history 364 Blair Castle 905 103 Castleton 472-3 sights 364-70 Blenheim Palace 200-1 114 City of Caves 443 tourist information 376 Braemar Castle 901 Kisimul Castle 941 Clearwell Caves 222 tours 370-2 Brodick Castle 878 Lauriston Castle 766 Davaar Cave 872 travel to/from 376 Buckingham Palace Leicester Castle 456 Poole’s Cavern 469 travel within 376 81, 83 159 Shell Grotto 160 walking 371, 371 Caerlaverock Castle 819 Lews Castle 934 Smoo Cave 917 Cambridgeshire 361-78 Caernarfon Castle 727-8 Lincoln Castle 451 Wookey Hole 255 Campbeltown 872-3 Caerphilly Castle 657 Lochleven Castle 841 caving canoeing, see kayaking & Cardiff Castle 643-5 Lowther Estate 602 Betws-y-Coed 717 canoeing Cardigan Castle 702 Ludlow Castle 441 Peak District National Canterbury 58, 154-8, 155 Carlisle Castle 600 MacLellan’s Castle 820 Park 468 17, Carreg Cennen 689 Montgomery Castle Cawdor Castle 892 28, 154-6, 17, 28 Castell Coch 645-6 694-5 cell phones 22 Canterbury Tales, The 156 Brân 708 Muncaster Castle cemeteries Cape Wrath 918 Castle Drogo 323 599-600 Greyfriars Kirkyard 755 car travel 1029-30 Castle Howard 16, Newark Castle 447 Highgate Cemetery 492, Newcastle Castle 610 Cardiff 18, 61, 641-52, 642, 16 110-11 644, 647 Castle Kennedy Gardens Noltland Castle 951 Wolvercote Cemetery 822 Norwich Castle 389-90 accommodation 639, 189 648-9 914 Nottingham Castle 443 Central Scotland 62, climate 639 Castle Rushen 567 Palace of Holyroodhouse 826-81 751, 761, 751 drinking & nightlife 650 Cawdor Castle 892 accommodation 826 670 entertainment 651 Chepstow Castle 653 climate 826 Pendennis Castle 347 festivals & events 647-8 Chillingham Castle 628 food 826 food 639, 649-50 Colchester Castle 378 Peveril Castle 472 highlights 828, 828-9 695 highlights 640, 640 Conwy Castle 733-4, travel seasons 826 Raby Castle 621 history 641-2 637 Centre for Alternative itineraries 641 Corfe Castle 275 Raglan Castle 655 Technology (CAT) 697 shopping 651 725 177 Ceredigion 698-703 sights 642-7 Culzean Castle 817 Scarborough Castle Cerne Giant 279 495-6 tourist information 652 834 Chagford 323-4 Scone Palace 847 travel seasons 639 Dover Castle 165-6 Changing of the Guard Sherborne New Castle travel to/from 652 Duart Castle 869 284 Buckingham Palace 83 travel within 652 Dunnottar Castle 851 Sherborne Old Castle Windsor Castle 228 Dunollie Castle 861 Cardiff Castle 643-5 284 Charles Dickens Museum Dunrobin Castle 912 430 89, 215 Dunstanburgh Castle Sizergh Castle 597 Chatham Historic Dockyard Map Pages 000 632 160 Skipton Castle 508 Photo Pages 000 Dunster Castle 298 Chaucer, Geoffrey 156, 995 St Andrews Castle 836 1041 Cheddar Gorge 256 Painswick Rococo Cockermouth 588-9 Glasgow 800 Chelsea Flower Show Garden 216 Colchester 378-9 Isle of Wight 266 32, 33 Penmon Priory 740 Coniston 584-6 Lake District 569 Cheltenham 218-21, 219 Rosslyn Chapel 783-5, Conkers 461 Loch Leven 841 Chepstow 653 784-5, 784, 882 Constable, John 379, 1003 Loch Morlich 899 Round Church 370 Chesil Beach 281-5 Conwy 732-6, 733 New Forest 264

Salisbury Cathedral 286 INDEX Chester 548-51, 550 Conwy Castle 733-4, 637 Northeast England 607 284 Chesterfield 466 634 Peak District National Southwark Cathedral 97 Chichester 183-4 623-8 Park 468

Southwell Minster 448  C-D children, travel with 54-7 Cornwall 16, 327-55, Peebles 812 Chipping Campden 210-11 224 , Southeast England 154  16 337 Chipping Norton 209-10 St Andrews Cathedral travel to/from 327 Southwest England 234 836 Christ Church 188-9 travel within 327-8 Trossachs 859 St David’s Cathedral 672 Christie, Agatha 307 costs 23 Yorkshire 483 St Edmundsbury Cathe- Christ’s College 368 Cotswolds 13, 59, 201-18, Yorkshire Dales National dral 385 Church Stretton 438-40 202-3, 13 Park 513 St George’s Chapel 228 churches & cathedrals accommodation 185 St Giles Cathedral 751, 28-9 activities 201-3 752-4, 751 D Bangor Cathedral 729 climate 185 St Hywyn’s Church 726 dangers, see safety 531 St Issui’s Church 685 driving tours 206-7, 207 Dartmoor National Park 686 318-24, St food 185 319 Canterbury Cathedral 17, Church (Tideswell) highlights 186, 186 Dartmouth 309-11 154-6, 17, 28 472 travel seasons 185 600 St John the Baptist’s Coventry 410-12 310 Chester Cathedral 548 Church (Cirencester) Cowes 268-9 Darwin, Charles 163 Chichester Cathedral 203 Crail 840-1 379-80 183 St Magnus Cathedral 630, 632 Derby 461-4 Christ Church Cathedral 944 credit cards 1022-3 Derbyshire 461-6 189 St Mary’s Priory Church Derwent Reservoirs 473-4 655 cricket 141, 1015-16 Collegiate Church of St Devon 301-27 Mary 413 St Nicholas’ Church 694 Crickhowell 685-6 Cromer 391-4 Dickens, Charles 89, 149- 411 St Paul’s Cathedral 50, 996 89-91 Croyde 325 Derby Cathedral 462 disabilities, travellers with Cuillin Hills 929 Dunkeld Cathedral 902 University Church of St 1018 Mary the Virgin 191-2 Culloden Battlefield 891-2 Durham Cathedral 618 distilleries Wells Cathedral 255 Culross 844-5 Elgin Cathedral 855 Aberlour 855 76-7 culture 963 377 Ardbeg 874 Winchester Cathedral Cumbria 60, 600-3 Exeter Cathedral 303 Bowmore Distillery 260-1 Glasgow Cathedral accommodation 568 874-5 424 796-7, 743 climate 568 Bruichladdich 876 York Minster 485 Cathedral food 568 Cotswolds Distillery 222 Churchill, Winston 87, 174, highlights 570, 570-1 209-10 200, 980 Haworth Church travel seasons 568 Eden Mill Distillery 836 cider 427, 987 524 Cumbrian Coast 598-600 Edradour Distillery 903 cinema 998-1000 427 currency 22 Glenfarclas 855 Cinque Ports 170 Holy Trinity Church 416 customs regulations 1021 Glenfiddich 855 Dover 165-7 King’s College Chapel cycling 45-6, 605, 1028 Highland Park Distillery 364-5 Hastings 171-3 Aviemore 897 944 Lancaster Castle 562 Sandwich 164-5 Blaenau Ffestiniog 716 Isle of Harris Distillery Leicester Cathedral 456 Cirencester 202-4 Coed y Brenin Forest 936-7 Lichfield Cathedral 421 Claridge’s Foyer & Reading Park 714 Isle of Jura Distillery 877 Lincoln Cathedral Room 125 Cotswolds 201 Lakes Distillery 589 449-51 Cley-next-the-Sea 394 Cumbria 569 Kilchoman 876 Liverpool Cathedral climate 22, 1020-1, see also Dartmoor National Kingsbarns Distillery 553-4 individual locations Park 318 836 Llandaff Cathedral 647 Clovelly 326 Dumfries 819 Kirkjuvagr Orkney Gin Mackintosh Queen’s coal mining 523, 658, 978 East Anglia 361 944 Cross 793 coastal attractions 27 Exmoor National Park Lagavulin 874 coasteering 46, 674 295 Lakes Distillery 589 388-9 coasts 1010 Galloway Forest Park 821 Laphroaig 874 1042 distilleries continued Durham 618-36, 619 Elterwater 586-7 Hay Festival 681 Lindores Abbey Distillery Durness 917-18 Ely 376-8 Henley Royal Regatta 836 DVD 1024 Embleton Bay 632-3 230 Macallan 855, 988 Emin, Tracey 1004 International Musical Oban Distillery 861 Endeavour 26 Eisteddfod 33, 709 Old Pulteney 913 E Jorvik Viking Festival East Anglia 59, 360-98 England 65-636

INDEX INDEX 31, 488 Penderyn Distillery 689 highlights 66-7, 66-7 accommodation 360 Llanwrtyd 692 Plymouth Gin Distillery activities 361 England Coast Path 26 315 London Marathon climate 360 Ennerdale 597 32, 119

D-F Speyside Cooperage  food 360 environmental issues Manchester Pride 855 1011-12 Festival 542  Springbank 872 highlights 362, 362-3 Essex 378-82 National Eisteddfod of Dolgellau 710-13 history 361 Eton 226-30, 227 Wales 34 dolphins 703 tourist information 361 Eton College 229 Notting Hill Carnival 35, Dorchester 277-9 travel seasons 360 events, see festivals & 119-20, 34 travel to/from 361 Dorset 271-85 events Open House London 96 East Neuk 840-2 Douglas 565-6 exchange rates 23 Reading Festival 229 East Riding of Yorkshire Dover 165-7, 166 Exeter 301-7, 528-32 302 Robin Hood Festival drinks 48-53, 987-9 Exmoor National Park 295- 447 East Sussex 167-82 beer 53, 767, 987, 989 301, 296 Royal Ascot 226 Eastbourne 173 cider 53, 987, 989 Eyam 474, 476 Royal Welsh Show 692 Edale 474 coffee 987 Shetland Nature Festival Eden Project 348 spirits 53 955 Edinburgh 11, 61, 745-88, tea 987 F Six Nations 31, 647 752-3, 762-3, 11 FA Cup 1014 whisky 21, 53, 755, 779, Spirit of Speyside 32, accommodation 745, Falmouth 347-50 855, 989, 50 855 768-70 farmland 1009 wine 989 TRNSMT 33, 800 activities 766 635 driving, see car travel Trooping the Colour climate 745 ferry travel 1027, 1028 driving tours 32, 119 drinking & nightlife festivals & events 29-30, University Boat Race 31 Cotswolds 206-7, 207 777-81 31-5 Up Helly Aa 954 Dartmoor National entertainment 781-2 Abergavenny Food Park 322 Upfest 240 festivals & events 767-8 Festival 35, 655 Wimbledon Cham- Dover to Rye 168-9, 169 Puffin Festival food 745, 771-2, 774-7 pionships 32, 142, Fife Coast 843, 843 634 highlights 746, 746 1016, 34 Lake District 594, 594 Boat Race 119 history 747-8 Fforest Fawr 689-90 Loch Ness 893, Braemar Gathering 893 itineraries 747 Fife 835-45 North Coast 500 921 35, 901 shopping 782-3, 786 driving tour 843, 843 Northumberland Coast Brecon Fringe Festival sights 748-66 films 962 631 35, 688 tourist information 786 Fishguard 676-7 Peak District National Celtic Connections 800 tours 766-7 Park 475, 475 Cheese-Rolling 212 food 48-53, 825, 983-6 travel seasons 745 Drumnadrochit 892, 894-5 Chelsea Flower Show 32, afternoon tea 52 travel to/from 787 Dufftown 856 119, 33 black pudding 49 travel within 787-8 Dulverton 296-7 Cotswold Olimpicks 212 breakfast 52, 983-4 walking 772, 773 Dumfries 817-19 Cowes Week 33, 268 cheese 52, 824 Edinburgh Castle 748-9, Dumfries & Galloway Edinburgh Festival Fringe Cornish pasty 825, 984 750, 750 817-23 34, 767-8, 33 cream tea 825, 824 Edinburgh Festival Fringe Dundee 845-9 Edinburgh International dessert 986, 986 34, 767-8, 33 Dunfermline 844 Festival 34, 768 dinner 52, 985-6 Edinburgh International Edinburgh Military Tattoo Dunkeld 902-3 fish and chips 49, Festival 34, 768 768 985 Dunnet Head 914-15 haggis 49, 971, Edinburgh’s Hogmanay 824 Dunrobin Castle 912 972 767 lunch 52, 984 Dunster 298 Eilean Donan Castle Festival No 6 725 pudding 986 Dunvegan 931 925, 19 Glastonbury Festival roast 51, 51, 824-5 Durdle Door 275, 13 Elan Valley 694 of Contemporary Scotch egg 49, 51 electricity 1021 Performing Arts 32, tripe 49 Elgin 855-6 258, 30 football 546, 1013-14 Map Pages 000 974-5 Grand National 556 Forest of Dean 221-3 Photo Pages 000 Elizabeth II 980 Guy Fawkes Night 35 Fort Augustus 895 INDEX F-H 1043 , 70 - 5 975 454 , 61 973 - 973 261 588 , 977 - 113 7 977 969 973 - 979 969 7 967 - 975 974 969 , 971 979 981 759 248 , , , 1002 6 978 973 966 1 423 395 - 8 - 971 215 577 - 676 976 75 706 , 972 , 969 99 , 9 80 965 82 , 17 970 - - 967 388 - 966 , 417 415 968 993 971 1023 2

16 982 967 1030 , 138 -6 , - - 979 74 965 979 , , 970 Place Place Room 87 House 975 891 415 96 Building 751, Building 751, 751 Jacobite rebellions rebellions Jacobite invasion last Norman invasion Romans Scotland years Thatcher Vikings Wales the Roses of Wars WWI WWII Shakespeare’s New New Shakespeare’s School Shakespeare’s the Shard, Shugborough 74, House Somerset Thomas Gainsborough’s College Winchester Manor Woolsthorpe House Wordsworth Union of Act Anglo-Irish War Anglo-Saxons Culloden of Battle Hastings of Battle Brexit the Celts, 1642-45 of War Civil crusades Culloden Battlefield age Elizabethan Depression Great Lancaster of House House York of War Years’ Hundred Age Industrial Shakespeare’s Globe 75, Globe 75, Shakespeare’s Royal Crescent Crescent Royal Observatory Royal Gaol Ruthin Mount Rydal Sandringham Parliament Scottish Birthplace Shakespeare’s hitching hitching William Hogarth, holidays history history , 6 87 - 7 - 6 112 , - 3 96 - 799 , 902 201 245 97 103 706 815 278 419 , 6 695 see 93 - 792 845 10 - 103 26 833 163 814 223 584 273 417 857 309 278 380 213 666 992 582

139 752 6 , 17 - 792 , - , -2 1 stately homes & & homes stately - 114 749 106 793 80 794 416 Centre Visitor Wordsworth Museum Museum Wordsworth 580 421 513 Art Light Railway Light Railway Cottage 882 also manors Old Town Jail Jail Old Town Close King’s Mary Real Baths Roman Albert Hall Royal Hill Top Hill Top Art Lover an for House Parliament of Houses Manor Kelmscott Dungeon London Willow at the Mackintosh House Mackintosh Farm Arden’s Mary Scots’ of Queen Mary, Gate Max Dre y Nantclwyd Street Downing No 10 College Naval Old Royal City Chambers Chambers City Clouds Hill Palace Culross Dinefwr & the Cottage Dove House Down House Darwin Erasmus Flatford Royal Theatre Georgian of School Glasgow Greenway Cottage Hardy’s Hill House Welshpool & Llanfair & Llanfair Welshpool Axe 30 St Mary Studios Road Abbey Abbotsford Anne Hathaway’s House Apsley Brantwood Park Charlecote Herm 175 Hertfordshire Highgrove Highland Perthshire buildings, historic , , 115 36 7 - - 724 117 7 996 4 - , 6 - , 42 30 - 722 35 - 622 , 1000 625 7 10 7 , 4 , , - 4 - - 6 36 - 95 116 - 586 278 522 - 28 - 5 - 300 2 , 15 425 502 - - 426 - 8 5 997 3 - - 656 720 896 355 269

509 681 15 624 - 736 2 582 caves 627 - 260 11 9 - , 885 632 - - 492 974 580 499 171 427 116-7 143 524 15 714 see , 510 1021 936 724 Railway Railway 907 Railway Railway Railway Railway Railway 1025 116-7, 116-7, 623 999 Talyllyn Railway Railway Talyllyn Highland Railway Welsh Jacobite Steam Train Train Jacobite Steam & Blaenavon Pontypool Mountain Snowdon Steam Strathspey Bodmin & Wenford Bodmin & Wenford Railway Cliff Railway Ffestiniog Steam Wight Isle of H Herefordshire Herefordshire organisations heritage railways heritage Hawkshead Hawkshead Haworth Hay-on-Wye health Hebden Bridge Helmsley 230 Henly-on-Thames VIII Henry Hereford Hardy, Thomas Hardy, Harlech Harris Harrogate Harry Potter Hartlepool Hastings Hawes Hadrian’s Wall Wall Hadrian’s Haltwhistle Hamleys Hammer Film Productions Hampshire Palace Court Hampton Great Malvern Malvern Great Orme Great outdoors great 583 Forest Grizedale grottos, 175 Guernsey Night Fawkes Guy Grasmere Grasmere Grassington Glen Great Langdale Great - 2

- , 1 - 7 837 , - , 3 9 - 5 810 222 821 11 - - 258 , - 30 800 20

, 790

911 , 796 789 12 ,

142 - , 7 - 1 662 808 789 812 60 810 6 9 10 - 257 - - - - - 10 12 805 258 - 811 -

, , 377 3 800 906 257 - 790 - 792 parks & & parks 907 892 , 802 809 800 32 , 910 909 891 , 798 504 3 805 789 - , 792 20 15 2 8 see 922 62 792 - - - 5 936 - 789 282 351 959 837 806 800 1014 882 Contemporary Perform Contemporary ing Arts 743 1022 794 gardens 388 St Andrews Old Course Old Course Andrews St British Golf Museum British Golf Museum travel seasons seasons travel to/from travel within travel walking highlights highlights history shopping sights information tourist entertainment entertainment & events festivals food accommodation accommodation activities climate drinking & nightlife G Gower Peninsula Peninsula Gower Grantchester Cathedral Gloucester 218-223 Gloucestershire Goathland golf Glen Nevis Glen Nevis Glenfinnan Glenfinnan viaduct Glastonbury Tor Tor Glastonbury Glen Affric Glen Coe Glasgow Cathedral Cathedral Glasgow Glastonbury of Festival Glastonbury travellers 132, 181, 181, 132, travellers gay Glasgow Gairloch Park Forest Galloway gardens, Garenin Gainsborough, Thomas Thomas Gainsborough, Fortnum & Mason & Mason Fortnum fossils Foula Fowey Fort George George Fort William Fort 1044 Holkham 396 J Lamlash 881 Llangennith 664-5 Holy Island 634-5 Jacobite Steam Train 907 Lancashire 561-5 Llangollen 707-10, 708 Holyhead 741-2 James I of England 975 Lancaster 562-4 Llanthony Priory 685, 7 Honister Pass 593 Jedburgh 815-16 Land’s End 342 691-2 horse racing 1016 John, Augustus 1003 landscape 1006-12 Llŷn Peninsula 723-7 horse riding 47, 605 John, Gwen 1003 languages 22, 1033-5 Loch Achray 860 INDEX INDEX Dartmoor National John O’Groats 914 Lavenham 384 Loch Glencoul 918-19 Park 319 Jorvik Viking Centre 486-7 Lawrence, DH 996 Loch Katrine 860 Exmoor National Park Jura 876-7 Ledbury 428-9 Loch Lomond 856-8

H-L 295-6  Jurassic Coast 276 Leeds 514-21, 515 Loch Maree 923 New Forest 264

Leeds Castle 159 Loch Morlich 898-9  Houses of Parliament legal matters 1022 Loch Ness 892-5 80-1, 992 K Legoland Windsor 56, 56 driving tour 893, 893 Hove 175-82, 176 kayaking & canoeing 46 Leicester 455-60, 457 Loch Ness monster 894 Hoy 950-60 Bath 249 Leicestershire 455-61 Loch Rannoch 905 Hull 528-31 East Anglia 361 Lerwick 955-8, Loch Tay 905-6 Hutton-le-Hole 500 Exeter 304 956 travellers 132, 181, Loch Tummel 905 Hyde Park 103, Falmouth 347-8 100-1 1022 Fishguard 676 Lochinver 919-20 Lewes 174-5 Forest of Dean 223 Lochranza 879-80 Lewis 933-6 I Fowey 352 London 58, 68-150, 72-3, Ilfracombe 325-7 LGBT+ travellers 132, 181, Ironbridge Gorge 435-6 14, 25 industrial heritage 29 1022 Isle of Skye 927-8 accommodation 68, insurance 1022 libraries 120-3 Loch Morlich 899 internet access 1022 Bodleian Library 187-8 City 72, 89-96, 120-1, Lulworth Cove 276 internet resources 23 British Library 110 126, 133, 90-1 Norfolk Broads 361, 392 Inveraray 869-70 Chetham’s Library & Clerkenwell 73, 107, 122, Oban 862 School of Music 540 127, 135-6 Inverness 62, 885-91, 889 Plockton 925 climate 68 accommodation 884 Library of Birmingham Porthgain 674 402 drinking & nightlife climate 884 Totnes 312 National Library of Wales 131-8 food 884 Kelso 816-17 698-9 East London 73, 107-9, highlights 886, 886-7 Kendal 596-8 Radcliffe Camera 189, 122, 128, 134-5 travel seasons 884 Kenilworth 412-13 214 entertainment 138-42 Iona 868-9 Kent 154-67 Lichfield 421-3 festivals & events 119-20 Ironbridge Gorge 433-7, Keswick 589-91 lidos 108, 235 food 68, 123-31 434 Kew Gardens 114-15 Lincoln 449-53, 450 free attractions 118 islands Kielder Observatory 628 Lincolnshire 449-55 Greenwich 73, 112-14, Bardsey Island 727 Killin 860-1 literature 995-8, see also 129-30, 137-8 Brownsea Island 273 Kilmartin Glen 870-1 books Hampton Court 73, 114- Caldey Island 668 15, 131, 138 King’s Cave 880 Liverpool 20, 60, 551-61, Channel Islands 175 King’s College Chapel 364-5 552, 20 highlights 70-1, 70-1 Coquet Island 634 King’s Lynn 397-8 accommodation 557 history 69 Farne Islands 635 Kingussie 899-900 drinking & nightlife itineraries 76 Holy Island 881 559-60 Kintyre 871-3 Kensington 72, 99-107, St Catherine’s Island 669 entertainment 560 121, 126-7, 134, 100-1, Kirkcudbright 819-21 Islay 873-6, 873 festivals & events 556-7 106 Kirkwall 944-7, 945 Isle of Anglesey 739-42 food 557-9 Kew 73, 114-15, 131, 138 Knoydart Peninsula 911 Isle of Man 565-7 history 553 markets 145 Kylesku 918-19 Isle of Portland 280-1 itineraries 554 medical services 146 Isle of Skye 12, 926-32, sights 553-6 North London 73, 109-12, 927, 12 L tourist information 560 122, 128-9, 137, 110-11, Isle of Thanet 161 Lacock 292-3 tours 556 130 Richmond 73, 114-15, Isle of Wight 266-71, 267 Lake District 14, 60, 572- travel to/from 560 131, 138 Isles of Scilly 355-9 98, 730, 731, 573, 14, travel within 560-1 65, 604 safety 146 itineraries 36-41 Lizard Peninsula 346 accommodation 568 shopping 142-50 Llanarthne 665 climate 568 Shoreditch 73, 107, 122, Llanberis 718-20, 730-1 food 568 127, 135-6, 136 Map Pages 000 Llandeilo 665-6 highlights 570, 570-1 sights 76-115 Photo Pages 000 Llandudno 736-9, 737 travel seasons 568 Soho 81 1045 South Bank 72, 96-9, 121, sights 537-41 Sygun Copper Mine 722 Birmingham Museum & 126, 133-4, 98 tourist information 547 Welsh Mining Experience Art Gallery 403 South London 73, 112-14, tours 541 658 Blaenavon World Herit- 129-30, 137-8 travel to/from 547 Minster Lovell 210 age Centre 656 Spitalfields 73, 107, 122, travel within 547-8 mobile phones 22 Bletchley Park 225 127, 135-6, 136 Margate 160-1 monasteries, see abbeys, Blists Hill Victorian

sports 141 Town 435 INDEX markets priories & monasteries theatre 138-9 Bowes Museum 621 Borough Market 145 money 22, 1022-3 tourist information 146 Monmouthshire 652-6 Brighton Museum & Art Camden Market 145 Gallery 177 tours 115, 118-19  L-M Cardiff 651 Montgomery 694-5 travel seasons 68 Monument 93 British Golf Museum

 Columbia Road Flower 837 travel to/from 146-7 moors 1009-10 Market 108 British Museum 21, 77- travel within 147-50 Morar 912 Edinburgh 786 80, 78-9, 21, 78, 79 walking 88, Moray 855-6 88 Glasgow 809 Burns House 818 West End 72, 76-89, Moretonhampstead 323-4 Lancaster 563 Burrell Collection 801 120, 123-6, 131-3, 82, Moreton-in-Marsh 213-16 London 145 Cadbury World 404-5 84-5, 124 Morris, William 1003 Newcastle-upon-Tyne Captain Cook Memorial West London 73, 114, 616 motorcycle travel 1029-30 Museum 504 122-3, 130-1, 138 Plymouth Fish Market mountain biking 45-6, see Charles Dickens Museum London Eye 74, 96-7, 74 315 also cycling 89, 215 Long Melford 382-4 Portobello Road Market mountains 1009-10 Churchill War Rooms 87 Longleat 291-2 114 Ben Lomond 857 Cloverlands Model Car Looe 353-4 Sunday UpMarket 145 Ben Nevis 28, 909, 28 Museum 694 Lower Wye Valley 653-4 Swansea 661 Cader Idris 711 Coalport China Museum Ludlow 440-3 Mary, Queen of Scots 975 Cairngorm Mountain 435 Lulworth Cove 275-7 Masham 512 898 Corinium Museum 203 Lydford 324 Matlock Bath 464-6 Cambrian Mountains Cosford RAF Museum Lyme Regis 282-4 McEwan, Ian 997 691 432 Lymington 265-6 measures 1024 Crug Hywel 686 Court Barn Museum 211 Lyndhurst 265 Melrose 813-15 Cuillin Hills 929 Coventry Transport Lynmouth 299-301 Mevagissey 353 Pen-y-Fan 690 Museum 411 Lynton 299-301 Mey 914 Preseli Hills 677 Cregneash Village Folk Michael, George 1001 Snowdon 720-2 Museum 567 midges 915 Snowdonia 731 Cromford Mill 465 M Ysgyryd Fawr 685 Cutty Sark 112 Machynlleth 696-8 Midlands, the 59, 399-478 accommodation 399 Mousehole 342-3 Dennis Severs’ House Mackintosh, Charles Ren- 107 activities 402 Much Wenlock 437 nie 793, 857, 1003 Derwent Pencil Museum Mull 864-8, Magdalen College (Oxford) climate 399 865 590 Mull of Kintyre 871 193, 15 food 399 Design Museum 114 Mumbles, the 661-2 Magdalene College highlights 400, 400-1 Dickens House Museum (Cambridge) 368 travel seasons 399 museums 161-2 Magna Carta 286, 971 travel to/from 402 Aberdeen Maritime Dig 487 Museum 850-1 Mainland 947-9 Mid-Wales 61, 679-703 Dinosaurland 282-3 American Museum in Malham 511-13 accommodation 679 Discovery Museum 610 Britain 249 Malham Cove 511 climate 679 Discovery Point 846 Andrew Carnegie Birth- Mallaig 912-13 food 679 place Museum 844 Dorset County Museum Malton 501 277 highlights 680, 680 Armitt Museum 578 Manchester 60, 536-48, Dove Cottage & the travel seasons 679 Arnol Blackhouse 935 538-9 Millais, Sir John Everett Wordsworth Museum accommodation 542-3 Ashmolean Museum 580 1003 26, 192 activities 541 mines Babbacombe Model 658 drinking & nightlife Big Pit National Coal Village 308 545-6 Electric Mountain 719 Museum 656 Bannockburn Heritage Elgin Museum 855 entertainment 546-7 Dolaucothi Gold Mines Centre 833 Fitzwilliam Museum festivals & events 541-2 666 Battle of Bosworth 458 365-7 food 543-5 Great Orme Beamish Open-Air Fossil & Heritage Centre history 536-7 Mines 736 Museum 620 947 itineraries 536 Llechwedd Slate Caverns Beatles Story 555 716 Geffrye Museum 107 shopping 547 Berwick Barracks 635

- , 913 9 - - 422 3 529 712 - , 896 583

498 628 669 , 467 554 2 23

508 221 717 - , - 80 394 , 348 168 902 78 1 14 90 296 4 141 - - - - - 710 - , 319

819 1000 , , 665 173 507 681 895 466 670 499 301 1008 24

14 - - 3 , ,

- , 964 Park 14, 14, Park 13 Park 589 Park Centre Park Park Park 318 295 National Park 507 National Park 623 Park National Park 898 907 Museum 87 Wales Wales 331 642 1007 Snowdonia National National Snowdonia National Downs South Park Forest Whinlatter National Dales Yorkshire Wetland Caerlaverock Marshes Cley Project Eden Brecon Beacons National National Beacons Brecon National Cairngorms National Park Dartmoor National Park Exmoor Dean of Forest Forest Grizedale Forest Gwydyr Moors North York Northumberland National District Peak Coast Pembrokeshire Estate Rothiemurchus West Highland Museum Museum Highland West Centre Heritage Wick House Wilberforce Wimbledon Tennis Lawn Museum World Wedgwood of World Tower Ypres N National Portrait Gallery Gallery National Portrait reserves nature music Narberth of Garden National Botanic National Gallery Hatchery National Lobster Cardiff National Museum & forests national parks - - - 112 949 9 - 645 801 955 920 307 103 422 , 104-5, 104-5, , 516 156 238 3 - 846 105 , 627 846 424 102 932 493 89 818 , 732 462 422 693 958 104 611 , 755 729 303 7 8 932 - 797 - Museum Museum 104-5 & Museum Life Life Museum History & Life Religious of Art Museum Centre 224 Factory Factory Museum lain Works 286 Museum place ence Children’s for Centre Books Museum Gallery Gallery Canal Montgomery 695 Gallery 487 Museum 627 Victoria & Albert Victoria Fort Roman Vindolanda the Curious We Collection Wellcome St Fagans National National St Fagans Museum St Mungo’s Dinosaur Staffin Storiel Museum Stromness Sumburgh Visitor Head Museum Torquay Ullapool Museum Dundee V&A Works Verdant Museum Verulamium Royal Pump Room Room Pump Royal Porce Worcester Royal Museum Salisbury Johnson Samuel Birth Museum Science Whisky Experi Scotch The – Stories Seven Museum Shetland Sir John Soane’s Island of Museum Skye Potteries Museum & Art Art & Museum Potteries & Museum Powysland RAMM & Museum Rhayader III Experience Richard Museum Riverside Burns Birthplace Robert Army Museum Roman Museum Roman Armouries Royal Derby Crown Royal - - 390 90 934 - - 93 566 - 87 529 546 6 389 - 13 465 370 9 - - 108 191 811 752 485 658 540 112 542 537 403 325 193 248 329 537 3 6 3 19 - - 102 - - , 192 696 Natural of Museum History ing Museum seum 718 456 Museum 99 Museum Museum Museum 642 Scotland Museum of Science Science of Quarter Magic 420 Surfing Docklands Industry 433 Museum & Tour Museum & Tour tional Art Gallery 425 tecture Museum Museum Pitt Rivers Museum Museum Rivers Pitt Museum Polar Owain Owain Glyndŵr Centre University Oxford Min Lead District Peak Mu History People’s Museum National Slate Centre National Space National Waterfront Museum History Natural Lanark New Norwich Castle National Maritime National Maritime Cardiff National Museum of National Museum of the History the History of Museum Jewellery the of Museum & of Museum Centre National Brewery National Football Museum of British British of Museum London of Museum London of Museum Norwich of Museum & Science of Museum the Gorge of Museum Manx Museum & Na & Museum Manx Maritime Museum Company Motor Morgan nan Eilean Museum Archi Bath of Museum Madame Tussauds Tussauds Madame Police Manchester United Manchester , 258 456 282 6 627 453 - 610 847

940 634 589 596 865 14 625 - , 248 000 892 376 8 113 - 797 555 741 911 851 000 Unicorn 624 , 237 continued 7 8 8 - - - Exhibition Exhibition Death & Discovery & Discovery Death Museum Museum 486 526 Museum Museum 435 247 North (Manchester) North (Manchester) 540 Centre Command (Duxford) (Duxford) (London) & Museum 624-5, 624-5, & Museum 624-5 797 899 Museum Dolphin Trust Trust Dolphin Astronomy 610 859 801 Museum Museum Map Pages Map Pages Pages Photo Lindisfarne Priory Priory Lindisfarne & Centre Ness Loch Museum Regis Lyme M Shed King Richard III: Dynasty, III: Dynasty, King Richard Museum Village Lake Centre Science Life Kelvingrove Art Gallery & & Art Gallery Kelvingrove Museum Kendal Museum Keswick Kildonan Museum Jorvik Viking Centre Viking Jorvik Centre Island Museum Kelham Jackfield Tile Jackfield Museum Austen Centre Jane International Bomber Bomber International Slavery International Imperial War Museum Imperial War Museum Imperial War Museum Imperial War Hunterian Museum Museum Hunterian HM Frigate HM Frigate Maritime Holyhead Fort Roman Housesteads Hebridean Whale Hebridean & of Museum Herschel Museum Highland Folk Great North Museum North Museum Great Collection Toy Hamilton Glenfinnan Station Station Glenfinnan Highlanders Gordon Glasgow Science Centre Centre Science Glasgow museums museums

M-N

INDEX 1046 INDEX N-P 1047 7 - 5 - 62 54 59 60 58 62 60 31 23 62 61 5 640 61 344 -

22 639 ,

26 41 59 3 , - 60 - 61 59 61 5 24 60 4 58 - 59 59 61 - 675 59 60 61 61 22 36 640 336

3 62 60 60 , - 678 60 62 690 58 639 343 62 502 61 903 59 671 675 3 602 59 639 - 22 Path Path North Wales North Wales England Northeast Northern Highlands England Northwest Oxford Pembrokeshire vistors repeat Snowdonia Wales South England Southeast Scotland Southern England Southwest Stirling seasons travel Yorkshire Bath Bath Birmingham Beacons Brecon budgeting events of calendar Cambridge Canterbury Cardiff Scotland Central with travel children, Cotswolds Cumbria Anglia East Edinburgh Glasgow basics Britain Great resources internet Inverness itineraries District Lake Liverpool London Manchester the Midlands, Mid-Wales visitors new Newcastle climate climate food highlights seasons travel walks Ifan Pentre Pen-y-Fan Penzance Perranporth Pickering Pitlochry planning Pembrokeshire Coast Coast Pembrokeshire Penrith - 765 103 5 667 - , 111 369 507 903 15 248 469 922 475 - 639 61

347 526 , 100-1 496 , 670 662 761 604 , 109 573 3 114 , 109 19 885 - 11 475 - 665 103 213 13 343 19 350 - 467 562 , 210 , 108 714 1 9 - - 812 78 - 667 , Park Park Garden 357 Butterfly Tropical House 228 823 348 Wales of 840 Garden Botanic 822 257 Park 756 902 466 78 driving tour driving tour accommodation Park Estate Estate Park Prior Olympic Elizabeth Queen Park Regent’s Garden Botanic Royal Trelissick Sculpture Tremenheere Abbey Garden Tresco Park Victoria & Park Williamson Park Great Windsor Gardens Winter Hampstead Heath Heath Hampstead Hidcote Highgrove Park Holyrood Park Hyde Garden Inverewe Gardens Kensington Gardens Kew Garden Botanic Logan Heligan of Gardens Lost Garden National Botanic Islands Ness Gardens Pavilion Park Peasholm Garden Potager Cambo Walled Garden Garden Walled Cambo University Cambridge Gardens Kennedy Castle & Gardens Well Chalice Clyne Gardens Forest Brenin y Coed Garden Close Dunbar’s Grounds House Dunkeld Garden Explorers Park Foot Fell Corner Forbidden Peebles Peebles Castle Pembroke Pembrokeshire Peak District National Park National Park District Peak 2 9 - - 5 - , , 6 211 - , 5 8 531 199 198 - - 35 41 534 - 200 799 444 734

193 - ,

630 200 , 8 - 443 5 195 533 389 7 199 4 - 604

-

- 1013 943 -

, 950 932 ,

, 199 , 1023 5 17 4 187 - - - 91 4 324 367 3 , 93 877 - 47 534 645 - 147 443 - 751 52 - 663 castles & & castles 199 193 8 - , 34 , -

59 216 15 194 4 187 , - , 331 187 388 663 1002 see 44 1 193 761 942 - , 196 15 1001 861 666 751, 751, palaces 190 605 individual also see activities 119-20, Botanic Gardens Gardens Botanic Park Bute Aberglasney Gardens Gardens Aberglasney Garden Alnwick the Backs, Arboretum Batsford Westwood Beverley Garden Bodnant tourist information information tourist tours to/from travel within travel walking accommodation accommodation activities drinking & nightlife food history shopping sights highlights highlights seasons travel P O Parkmill Parkmill & gardens parks Padstow Painswick painting Holyroodhouse of Palace palaces, Jura of Paps Oxwich Bay Bay Oxwich Card Oyster Oxford Oxford Old Man of Hoy Hoy Old Man of Olympic Games opening hours Orkney 42-7, activities outdoor Hebrides Outer Nottingham Nottingham Nottinghamshire Oasis Oban Okehampton Norwich Hill Carnival Notting 9 39 - , - 3 - , , 60 710 610 8 98 - 727 , 960 396 901 608 - 60

60 822 533 606 704 , 900 499 705 9 921

- 606 704

607 447 , - 208 , 13 8 483 623 - , 40 392 -

, 704-42 , 386 - , 6 - 899 8 507 9 447 910 386 61 608 705 98 - - 1024 - 607 220 - 612 206 263 867

939 , 533 606 704 607 333 677 628 498 36 36 67 10 388 36 - 533 606 704 - - - - Reserve Reserve Centre National Nature National Nature Nature Reserve Reserve Nature Nature Reserve Reserve Nature 533 629 Park Park Park 606 706 610 accommodation accommodation climate food highlights highlights history seasons travel to/from travel accommodation accommodation activities climate food highlights highlights seasons travel accommodation accommodation climate food Slimbridge Wetland Wetland Slimbridge Minsmere Minsmere Galloway Mull of Ness Orford Forest Sherwood Holkham National National Holkham Estate Mar Lodge Estuary Mawddach Hermaness National National Hermaness North Yorkshire North Yorkshire England Northeast Northwest England England Northwest Northumberland Coast Northumberland Coast Northumberland National Northleach Northleach North York Moors National National Moors York North North Wales Borderlands Borderlands North Wales North Wales North Wales Norfolk Broads Broads Norfolk 500 North Coast (Wales) North Coast North Mull North Uist Newquay Newquay newspapers Newtonmore Norfolk Newark-on-Trent Newark-on-Trent Newcastle-upon-Tyne Newport Nevis Range Range Nevis Forest New 1048 plants 1011 Ribble Valley 564-5 ruins 28-9, see also Scottish Highlands 19, 62, Plockton 925-6 Ribblesdale 510 archaeological sites 731, 884-960, 44, 731 Plymouth 313-18, 314 Richmond 513-14 Abbey Gardens 384-5 accommodation 884 politics 962-3 River Cottage 305 Barnard Castle 621 climate 884 Polperro 353 rivers 1010 Bishops’ Palace 451 food 884 Pontcysyllte Aqueduct & Road to the Isles 910-13 Botallack 341 highlights 886, 886-7 INDEX INDEX Canal World Heritage Robert the Bruce 827, 844, Brading Roman Villa 269 history 885 Site 707 880, 972 Dryburgh Abbey 814 travel seasons 884 Poole 273-5 Robin Hood 971 Dunfermline Abbey & Scottish National Gallery of

P-S population 963 Robin Hood’s Bay 506 Palace 844 Modern Art 765  Porlock 298-9 Rock 331-3 Earl’s Palace 944 Scottish National Portrait  Port Charlotte 875-6 rock climbing 47, 926 Fountains Abbey 495 Gallery 757-8 Port Ellen 874 Roman sites 29 Garn Goch 688 Scottish Parliament Building 751, 759-61, Port Eynon 663 Binchester Roman Glastonbury Abbey , Port Isaac 330-1 Fort 626 257-8 751 993 Scrabster 915-16 Porthgain 674, 676 Birdoswald Roman Fort Hailes Abbey 217-18 sculpture 1002-4 Porthmadog 724-5 624, 626, 624 Jedburgh Abbey 815 Sennen 342 Porthtowan 336 Brading Roman Villa Kelso Abbey 816 Seven Sisters Cliffs 174 Portmeirion Village 724 269 Leicester Castle 456 Shaftesbury 285 Portree 929-31 Caerleon 654 Lindisfarne Priory 634 Shakespeare, William 75, Portsmouth Historic Chedworth Roman Llanthony Priory 685, 7 96, 138-9, 415-16, 417, Dockyard 263 Villa 206 Melrose Abbey 814 995, 1004-5 postal services 1023 Chesters Roman Fort Montgomery Castle 624, 626, Shakespeare’s Birthplace Postbridge 321-3 624 694-5 Corbridge Roman Site & 415-16, 17, 215 Potter, Beatrix 582-3 Peveril Castle 472 Museum 626 Shakespeare’s Globe 75, Potteries, the 422 Rievaulx Abbey 499-500 Hadrian’s Wall 15, 96, 138-9, 75 Roman Painted House Powys 690-8 622-36, , , Shambles, the 487 623 15 167 Preseli Hills 677 624, 625 Sheeran, Ed 1002 Shaftesbury Abbey 285 Princetown 320-1 Housesteads Roman Fort Sheffield 526-8 St Augustine’s Abbey Principality Stadium 645 & Museum 627 156 Sherborne 284-5 public holidays 1023 Roman Amphitheatre St Davids Bishop’s Shetland 952-60, 953 548 pubs 18, 989 Palace 672 shopping 30 puffins 634 Roman Baths 12, 26, St Non’s Bay 672 Shrewsbury 430-3, 431 245-7, 12 Tynemouth Priory 617 Shropshire 430-43 Roman Painted House Q 167 Valle Crucis Abbey 707 Skara Brae 948 Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House Roman Town House 277 Wenlock Priory 437 skiing 47, 910 228 Segedunum 626 Whitby Abbey 503-4 Skipton 507-9 Quiraing 932 Vindolanda Roman Fort Ruthin 706-7 Sky Garden 93 & Museum 627 Rutland 460-1 Slaughters, the 208, 13 R Rosetta Stone 77 Ryde 269-70 snorkelling 358 Radcliffe Camera 189, 214 Rosslyn Chapel 783-5, Rye 168-71 snowboarding 47 radio 1024 784-5, 784, 882 Snowdon 720-2 Ross-on-Wye 429-30 rafting 46 S Snowdonia 14, 61 Raglan Castle 655 Rothiemurchus Estate safaris 297 Snowdonia National Park 898 railways, see heritage safety 1023-4 14, 710-23, 712-13, 14 Rousay 952 railways hitching 1030 accommodation 704 Rowling, JK 997, 1000 Ramsgate 162-4 380-1 climate 704 royal Britain 27 Reading 229 sailing 46-7 food 704 Regent’s Canal 109 Royal Crescent 248 highlights 705, Salisbury 286-9, 287 705 Royal Deeside 900-2 religion 963, 991 Salisbury Cathedral 286 travel seasons 704 Royal Family 964 Rhayader 693-4 Sandringham 395 soccer 546, 1013-14 Royal Shakespeare Rhinns of Galloway 822-3 Sandwich 164-5 Somerset 254-9 Rhondda Valley 658 Company 420 Somerset Levels 257 Royal William Yard 316 Sark 175 Rhossili 664 Saundersfoot 667-8 South Downs National Park Royal Yacht Britannia 764 173-4 Scarborough 495-8, rugby 412, 1015 496 South Mull 868 Six Nations Rugby Scotland 743-960 Map Pages 000 South Uist 940-1 Championship 31, 647 highlights 744, 744 Photo Pages 000 South Wales 61 Scott, Sir Walter 996 Rugby 412 accommodation 639 1049 climate 639 Staffa 866 Stone of Destiny 749, tourist information 1025 food 639 Staffordshire 421-3 847, 972 Tower Bridge 92-3 highlights 640, 640 Stamford 454-5 Stonehenge 11, 289-91, Tower of London 14, 91-2, travel seasons 639 stand-up paddleboarding 290, 10-11 94-5, 94-5, 14, 94, 95 South Wales Valleys 656-7 46 Stornoway 934-5 Trafalgar Square 80 South West Coast Path stargazing 299 Stowe 225 train travel 1027, 1031-2 234, 296, 2, 730 stately homes & manors Stow-on-the-Wold 208-9 travel to/from Britain INDEX South Yorkshire 525-8 27, 991 Stranraer 822 1026-7 Southbank Centre 97 Althorp House 455 Stratford-upon-Avon 17, travel within Britain

S-W  1027-32 Southeast England 58, Avebury Manor 293 415-21, 416-17, 17 151-84 Belton House 449 Strathglass 891 trekking, see walking  accommodation 151 Blackwell House 572-3 Stromness 949-50 Tresco 357 activities 154 Burghley House 454 Suffolk 382-8 Trinity College (Cambridge) 365 climate 151 Castle Howard 492 Sumburgh 958-9 Trinity College (Oxford) food 151 Chatsworth House 476 surfing 46, 605, 605 190-1 highlights 152-3, Cotehele House 354 Bude 328 152-3 Trooping the Colour 32 travel seasons 151 Dumfries House 820 Croyde 325 Trossachs 858-61 Southend-On-Sea 381-2 Erddig 707 Isle of Wight 267 Trotternish 931-2 Southern Scotland 62, Floors Castle 816 Newquay 334 Troutbeck 581 789-823 Haddon Hall 476 Porthgain 674 Truro 350-1 accommodation 789 Hardwick Hall 466 Scarborough 497 Turner, JMW 1003 climate 789 228 Snowdonia 718 TV 1024 food 789 Holker Hall 599 Sutton Hoo 383 Tynemouth 617-36 highlights 790-1, 790-1 Kedleston Hall 463 Swansea 658-61, 660 travel seasons 789 Kingston Lacy 272 Southwell 448 Lanhydrock 354 U T Montacute House 260 Ullapool 920-1 Southwest England 59, Tarbert (Argyllshire) 871-2 231-359 268 Ullswater 595-6 Tarbert (Harris) 936-7 accommodation 231 Paxton House 812 Unst 959-60 Tate Britain 86 activities 234 Plas Newydd 740 Unst Bus Shelter 960 Tate Modern 26, 75, 96, 75 climate 231 Speke Hall 558 Urquhart Castle 892, 894 Tate St Ives 26 food 231 Stoneleigh Abbey 412-13 taxis 1030 highlights 232-3, 232-3 Stourhead 292 telephone services 22, V travel seasons 231 Sulgrave Manor 456 1024 vacations 1023 travel within 234-5 Traquair House 813 Tenby 668-70 Ventnor 270 Southwold 387-8 Tretower Court & Castle tennis 1016 Victoria & Albert Museum 685-6 spas Wimbledon Tennis 32 102-3, 104-5, 104-5, Bath 249 Tyntesfield House 241 , Thames 74-5, 74-5, 74, 75 104 105 Turkish Baths 493 Steephill Cove 270 Thames Valley 226-30 Victoria, Queen 978 Spice Girls 1001 Stirling 62, 827-35, 832 Thatcher, Margaret 981 Victoria Tunnel 611 sports 141, 1013-16, see Stirling Castle 21, 827, theatre 1004-5 villages 29 also individual sports 830-3, 21, 830 Three Cliffs Bay 663 visas 22, 1025 St Agnes 358-9 Stirling region 827-35 Thurso 915-16 St Albans 224-5 accommodation 826 time 22, 1024 St Andrews 836-40, 838 climate 826 W Tintagel 330 Wales 637-742 St Andrews Old Course 837 food 826 Tintern Abbey 654 highlights 638, 638 St Davids 671-4, 673 highlights 828, 828-9 Tobermory 865-7 walking 42-7, 605 St David’s Cathedral 672 travel seasons 826 toilets 1024-5 Bath 251, 251 St Fagans National History Stoke Bruerne 460 tombs Beddgelert 722-3 Museum 645 Stoke-on-Trent 422 Ben Nevis 909 St Ives 337-41, 338 stone circles Burial Mound 741 Cader Idris 711 St John’s College 369, 17 Avebury Stone Circle Carreg Cambrian Mountains 691 St Just 341-2 293 678 Cambridge 371, 371 St Kilda 938 Callanish Standing Pentre Ifan 678 Stones 935, 39 Coast to Coast 482 St Magnus Cathedral 944 Robert Burns Mauso- St Martin’s 358 Standing Stones of leum 818 Cornwall 731 Stenness 949 St Mary’s 356 Torquay 307-9 Cotswolds 202 Stonehenge 11, 289-91, St Michael’s Mount 343 Torridon 923-4 Cumbria 569 290, 10-11 St Paul’s Cathedral 89-91 Totnes 311-13 Dales Way 482 1050 walking continued Warwick 413-15, 414 Loch of the Lowes drinking & nightlife Dartmoor National Warwickshire 410-21 Wildlife Centre 902 490-1 Park 318 Wasdale 587-8 London Wetland Centre festivals & events 488 Dolgellau 710-11 waterfalls 115 food 489-90 East Anglia 361 Golitha Falls 354 672 shopping 491 Edinburgh 766-7, 772-3, Lydford Gorge 324 Red Kite Feeding Centre sights 485-8

INDEX INDEX 689 773 Sgwd-yr-Eira 689 tourist information 491 England Coast Path 26 South Stack Cliffs RSPB tours 488 Swallow Falls 717 Reserve 741 Exmoor National Park travel to/from 491-2 weather 22, 1020-1, St Bees Head 599 W-Z 296 see also individual travel within 492  wildlife watching 297 Glasgow 800, 805, 805 locations York Minster 485, 18 Inverness 885  Goatfell 878 websites, see internet Yorkshire 60, 479-532 resources Gairloch 922 Hadrian’s Wall Path 622 accommodation 479 weights 1024 Mull 864 Helvellyn 595 activities 482 Wells 255-6 Shetland 955 Hermitage 902 climate 479 Wells-next-the-Sea 395-6 Stornoway 934 Isle of Skye 926 food 479 Welshpool 695-6 Wiltshire 285-95 Isle of Wight 266 highlights 480, 480-1 West Highlands 906-13 Wimbledon Championships Killin 861 history 482 West Sussex 182-4 32, 142, 1016, 34 Lake District 569, 579 tourist information 483 West Wight 271 Winchcombe 217-18 Loch Leven 841 travel seasons 479 West Yorkshire 514-25 Winchester 260-3, 261 Loch Lomond 857 travel to/from 483 Western Gloucestershire Windermere 572-7, 574 Loch Morlich 899 travel within 483 218-23 Windsor 226-30, 227 London Marathon 32 Yorkshire Dales National Westminster Abbey 76-7 Windsor Castle 227-8 426 Park 507-14, 508 New Forest 264 Westray 951-2 windsurfing 46 Northeast England 607 Weymouth 279-80 wine 162, 989 whisky 21, 53, 755, 779, wineries Z Oxford 193, 194-5, 195 855, 989, 50 Zennor 341-2 Paps of Jura 877 Bishop’s Castle 440 Spirit of Speyside 32 zip-lining Peak District National Cornwall 329 Bangor 732 Park 468 Whitby 502-7, 503 Kent 162 white cliffs of Dover 165 Betws-y-Coed 717 Pembrokeshire 675, 675 St Martin’s 358 Peebles 812 Pembrokeshire Coast Whitstable 158-9 Sussex 162 Path 671 Wick 913-14 Totnes 311 Pennine Way 482 Widecombe-in-the-Moor Woburn 225-6 Bristol Gardens 239 Pen-y-Fan 690 323 woodland areas 1009 Cotswold Farm Park 209 Scafell Pike 587 wildlife 963-4, 1007 Woodstock 200-1 766 Snowdon 720, 721 wildlife reserves Worcester 424-5 Folly Farm 667 South West Coast Path Abbotsbury Swannery Worcestershire 423-6 307-8 282 43, 234, 296, 2, 730 Wordsworth, William 577, Longleat 291-2 Balranald RSPB Reserve Southeast England 154 580, 588, 996 334 939 Southwest England 234 WWI 979 308 325 Trossachs 859 WWII 979-80 Woburn 226 Cardigan Bay Marine ZSL 109-10 White Rose Way 482 Wildlife Centre 701 Yorkshire 482, 483 Cornish Seal Sanctuary Y Wallace Collection 87 346 Yell 959 Wallace, William 972 Cotswold Falconry York 18, 483-92, 484-5, 18 Warner Bros Studio Tour: Centre 213 accommodation 488-9 The Making of Harry International Centre for activities 488 Potter 224 Birds of Prey 222

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 NOTES 1051 1052 NOTES 1053 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1054

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Damian Harper London With two degrees (one in modern and classical Chinese from SOAS), Damian has been writing for Lonely Planet for over two decades, contributing to titles as diverse as China, Beijing, Shanghai, Vietnam, Thailand, Ireland, London, Mallorca, Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei, Hong Kong and Great Britain. A sea- soned guidebook writer, Damian has penned articles for numerous newspapers and magazines, including the Guardian and the Daily Telegraph, and currently makes Surrey, England, his home. Follow Damian on Instagram (damian.harper).

Catherine Le Nevez Newcastle & Northeast England, Birmingham & the Midlands Catherine’s wan- derlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writ- ing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Topping Cathe- rine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations.

Hugh McNaughtan Wales Hugh has been obsessed with Wales since a childhood steeped in books about castles and longbows. A former English lecturer who swapped grant appli- cations for visa applications, turning his love of travel into a full-time thing, he’s scoured Wales from end-to-end since 1994, yet always comes up with new things to wonder at.

Lorna Parkes Yorkshire Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and ex-Lonely Planet staffer in both cities, Lorna has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and mag- azines. She’s discovered she writes best on planes, and is most content when researching food and booze. Wineries and the tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places, but Yorkshire will always be special to her. Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Andy Symington Glasgow & Southern Scotland, Inverness & the Northern Highlands & Islands Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Australia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago.

Greg Ward Oxford & the Cotswolds Since whetting his appetite for travel by following the hippy trail to India, and later living in northern Spain, Greg has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent assignments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Japan to Corfu. See his website, www.gregward.info, for his favourite photos and memories.

Neil Wilson Edinburgh, Stirling & Central Scotland, Inverness & the Northern Highlands & Islands Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents.

Contributing writers: Peter Dragicevich, Steve Fallon and Emilie Filou AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Oliver Berry Curator, Southwest England, the Lake District & Cumbria Oliver is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including the Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.

Fionn Davenport Manchester, Liverpool & Northwest England Irish by birth and conviction, Fionn has spent the last two decades focusing on the country of his birth and his near- est neighbour, England, which he has written about extensively for Lonely Planet and others. In between writing gigs he’s lived in Paris and New York, where he was an editor, actor, bartender and whatever else paid the rent; for the last 15 years or so he’s also presented a series of radio programmes on Irish radio, most recently as host of Inside Culture on RTE Radio 1. Three years ago he moved to the northwest of England where he lives (and commutes from) with his partner, Laura, and their car, Trevor.

Marc Di Duca Canterbury & Southeast England A travel author for over a decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives near Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.

Belinda Dixon Bath & Southwest England, Cambridge & East Anglia Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda has been (gleefully) researching and writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her marvelling at Stonehenge at sunrise, camping in Iceland, scrambling up Italian mountain paths, horse riding across Donegal’s gold- en sands, kayaking down Devon rivers, gazing at Verona’s frescoes and fossil hunt- ing on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. Belinda is also an adventure writer and expedition media leader – which has seen her scale snowy Scottish mountains, paddle the Yukon, surf and swim in England’s winter seas and sleep out under the stars. See her posts at https://belindadixon.com.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 13th edition – May 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 806 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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