C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS MAY 2015 NO. 236 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore WILFRED DEDERER
BEQUIA EASTER REGATTA 2015 See story on page 16 MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 HARRIS
The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Bill & JoAnne get www.caribbeancompass.com their monthly dose of Compass at the Flamenco MAY 2015 • NUMBER 236 Marina in Panama City,
NENCHEVA Panama Coming Up Celebrating youth sailing ...... 11 GOOCH DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 Salty’s Beat ...... 34 Business Briefs ...... 8 Look Out For… ...... 35 Eco-News ...... 10 The Caribbean Sky ...... 36 Regatta News...... 12 Readers’ Forum ...... 38 Destinations ...... 18 Calendar of Events ...... 40 Island Poets ...... 31 What’s on my Mind ...... 40 Somewhere Else! Cartoons ...... 31 Caribbean Market Place .....41 St. Kitts a surprise ...... 18 Book Review ...... 32 Classified Ads ...... 45 Another St. Thomas Meridian Passage ...... 34 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46 It’s not just cruise ships ...... 22 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ,
Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 MCGEARY Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected]
Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2015 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short No More Bagging Volcano Voyage excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Effective headsail reefing ...... 24 Loving the sleeping giants ..... 28 ISSN 1605 - 1998 Cover Photo: Bequia Pride and Skyler racing in Class 7 of Bequia Easter Regatta’s double-ender division. Photographer Wilfred Dederer was there to capture this and the yacht division action, too. See page 16
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Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info assigned toSectorSanJuan. adding tothatcapabilitywiththearrivaloffirstsixfastresponsecuttersbe search andrescuecalls.Hesaidthatthissummer,theUSCoastGuardwouldbe law enforcementcapabilitieswhenrespondingtopotentialthreats,aswell assignment ofspecialpurposeinterceptorboatsintheUSVirginIslandsenhances other contrabandthroughthisareaoftheCaribbean.” enhance greatlyourabilitytocombattheillegaltraffickingofdrugs,guns,and stated, “theseboats,withtheirmoderncapabilitiesandhighlytrainedcrews,will “Given thechallengeswefaceinoureffortstosecureborders,”governor ment oftheCoastGuardtosafetyandsecuritypeopleUSVI. stationed onSt.Croix. 33-foot high-speedvesselswillbestationedonSt.Thomas,andtwo four special-purposelawenforcementboatstotheUSVirginIslands.Twoof of Martinique,”heexplained. erative buttheydon’thavemanyshipsintheregion,and[thereare]Frenchout navy ship.TheBritishoccasionallyhaveashipdownthere;theDutchareverycoop- to us,soweusetheminthesamewaywouldaCoastGuardcutterand dent onothernationsformaritimesecurityassistanceintheCaribbean. from justthreetosix.KellytoldthesenatecommitteethatUSislargelydepen- Coast Guardcuttersintheregion,Kellypointedoutthatthisrepresentsanincrease lance andreconnaissance(ISR)assetsavailableinthearea. mer.” KellyalsostatedthatSOUTHCOMhasinsufficientairborneintelligence,surveil- Caribbean]. Ihavetwonavyshipsrightnow;thatwillgotozeroforeverbythesum- of USSouthernCommand(USSOUTHCOM),said,“Idon’thavetheassets[in this summer. sels theUScurrentlydeploysinCaribbeanwillbothbepermanentlywithdrawn Captain RobertWarren,CoastGuardSectorSanJuancommander,notedthatthe Governor KennethMappsaidhewelcomesandappreciatestheongoingcommit- Meanwhile, theUnitedStatesCoastGuardhasannouncedassignmentof “About sixmonthsoutoftheyearwehaveaCanadianfrigatethattheyturnover Although theUSCoastGuardhasmadeacommitmenttodoublenumberof At aSenateArmedServicesCommitteehearing,GeneralJohnKelly,commander As publishedonMarch18thatwww.caribbeannewsnow.com,thetwonavyves- US NavyPullingOutoftheCaribbean www.doylecaribbean.com [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Sails Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding
and weaknessesthereason(s)thatsomedestinationsarepreferredoverothers. of acomparativeanalysiseachyachtingdestinationtodeterminetheirstrengths of less-popularyachtingdestinations.Thesurveyalsorecommendstheundertaking Canadian markets. average annualincreaseofyachtspersonsvisitingtheregionfromUSand survey alsorecommendsasustainedcampaigntoensurethatpost2015,thereisan tions aggressivelytosustainagreaterspreadofvisitorsthroughouttheregion.The vey whichcountryintheOECStheywouldliketovisit. St. Vincent&theGrenadines.Threepercentwereundecidedattimeofsur- Grenada. LessthanonepercentsaidtheyintendedtovisitDominica,St.Luciaand one percentofyachtspersonssurveyedindicatedadesiretovisitSt.Kitts&Nevisor only threepercentsaidthattheywouldliketovisitAntigua&Barbuda;and to visitalloftheterritoriesOECS.While26percentarelikelyBVI, can benefitfromaspikeinyachtingactivitythisyear. yachting intheOECSandrevealedthatthereisagoodchanceregion at theshow. The respondentsweremainlyboatownerswhovisitedtheEasternCaribbeanVillage mation thatcouldenhancethedevelopmentofyachtingsectorinOECS. conducted atthe2014UnitedStatesSailboatShowinAnnapolis,touncoverinfor- develop theyachtingsectorinEasternCaribbean.Thiswasdoneviaasurvey to addressthechallengeoflackdataprovidepolicyguidancefurther Visit www.oecs.org/yachtingformoreinformation. The OECSCommissionisconsideringamarketingstrategytocreateanawareness The surveysuggests,therefore,thattheOECSshouldpromotelesser-knowndestina- Among theyachtspersonslikelytovisitOECS,16percentsaidthattheyintend The findingsofthestudydemonstratepotentialforfurtherdevelopment The OrganisationofEasternCaribbeanStates(OECS)TourismDeskhastakensteps OECS EmploysBoatShowFindings Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix —Continued onnextpage MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Ltd Plan B Service Tobago St Lucia Marintek Electec NV St Maarten St Martinique Trinidad and Trinidad 721-544-2051 721-522-2552 758-450-0552 868-634-4272 340-776-6665 340-773-0289 Inboard Diesel Marine Global 340-714- 1239 340-714- St Croix Marine Croix St Coral Bay Marine US VirginUS Islands 596-596-78-71-96 Dockyard Electrics Dockyard —Continued on next page Center Centre Antigua Services Services Grenada Dominica Marine Power Marine Parts & Power 473 443 7256 268-460-1850 473-443-1667 268-720-9638 284-494-2400 284-494-3494 284-494-2830 Cay Electronics Cay Grenada Marine Grenada Dominica Marine Palm Tree Marine Marine Maintenance Marine Seagull Yacht Service Yacht Seagull British Virgin Islands 767-440-BOAT(2628) Thanks go to all the cruisers who joined us for this fabulous event and for your for this fabulous event and the cruisers who joined us Thanks go to all Rule for USVI New ‘12-Pack’ US Virgin uninspected March 23rd at www.tradeonlytoday.com, As reported on revitalize the USVI’s marine industry and bring back to The change is expected to T&T Jesse James Wins Awards in Maxi Taxi Service in Chaguaramas, Trinidad has Jesse James of Members Only with cruisers and doing regular weekly trips to As a taxi driver, he began meeting In addition, Jesse serves as the Trinidad & Jesse is also a board member of the donations, to the musicians who provided music, and to Prickly Bay Marina for your music, and to Prickly Bay the musicians who provided donations, to gave so willingly you to the businesses that venue. And a big thank support and the all of you! couldn’t have done it without to our raffle. We as many as feet) are now allowed to carry of less than 24 metres (78.7 Islands boats including the and to international ports, within the Virgin Islands a dozen passengers former six- States. The change from the another port in the United BVI, but not to comes under the Howard Coble Coast Guard and passenger (“six-pack”) limit of 2014. Maritime Transportation Act operate in the BVI, where uninspected boats have been St. Thomas boats that now 12 passengers for several years. allowed to carry as many as the Trinidad & Tobago Coalition of Service recently been given two awards: the year 2014 and the (UK) Ocean Cruising Club’s port Industries service provider of officer of the year 2014. This grew into a thriving business whereby he negotiated the market in Port of Spain. supermarket for the visiting cruisers. He established special concessions with Tru-Valu and as he became more involved with the cruis- a wide network of reliable drivers see a real need for someone who could provide not ing community he began to but also give advice and assistance in other areas. He only just a transport service, sightseeing tours, including hiking and beach visits, plus arranged a wide variety of activities, trips to cultural and sporting service, shopping trips, a 24-hour airport and visits to restaurants and any special events happening in Trinidad. He is pas- sionate about helping cruisers experience the diverse cultures of Trinidad. Tobago Cruising Station Host of the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA), the larg- est association of voyaging recreational sailors in the world. He freely gives of his time to help maintain the daily cruiser’s radio net, and volunteers every year to visit Florida to extol the attractions of Trinidad to the SSCA Gam attendees. Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) and in that capacity he providers and the yacht- helps smooth the relationship between the yacht service ing community. Reliability? Clean Power? Long Lasting? Low Cost of Ownership? Local Support? The SMYCRF is very keen to support this The SMYCRF is very keen to organizations like the St. Maarten Sea organizations like the St. Maarten be able Rescue Foundation, we wouldn’t With 200 to make the event happen. against each boats on the water, racing for the St. Maarten Sea Rescue for the St. Maarten during the 35th St. Foundation (SSRF) Regatta in March. The Maarten Heineken to sailors and mari- SSRF offers assistance vessels and a well-trained ners. With two it ensures safety on group of volunteers, St. Maarten. It is also the waters of required responsible for the inspections vessel on St. Maarten before a private organi- can be registered. The non-profit zation relies solely on donations. Regatta initiative. Michelle van der Werff, support of Assistant, says, “Without the www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com why with Northern Lights generators, yes, you can have it all. it have you can yes, generators, Lights Northern with why silent capability and region-wide a Caribbean service network, easy it’s to see High Reliability, Amazing Durability and Maintenance Simplicity combine to ensure your onboard power requirements are always met. Coupled with super- with Coupled met. always are requirements power onboard your ensure Continued from previous page Continued from SMYC Regatta Foundation Raises Funds for Sea Rescue Foundation Raises Funds for SMYC Regatta (SMYCRF) raised US$1,660 Yacht Club Regatta Foundation The St. Maarten Grenada Cruisers Against Cancer in Grenada held their third annual fundraiser for the Wendy Ulik reports: Cruisers Regatta Assistant Michelle van der Regatta Assistant Michelle Frans Werff with Sea Rescue members Bakker van Nieuwenhoven and Serge Pink Ribbon Society of Grenada on March 29th. What began as a domino game to Pink Ribbon Society of Grenada on March 29th. What a domino tournament with pay tribute to a deceased fellow cruiser has grown to year with more than 35 prizes and a raffle. Prickly Bay Marina was the venue this showing up to take part in the domino players participating and many more people to the Pink Ribbon Society, raffle. EC$2,091 (approximately US$780) was donated double what was raised in the first two years of the event. — other, maintaining safety is key. Presence on the water of organizations like Sea other, maintaining safety is French SNSM and the Dutch Marines, ensure that par- Rescue, the Coast Guard, the enjoy a good time. We are looking forward to continue ticipants feel safe and can this cooperation for many years.” MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 event willtakeplaceonSunday,May24thfrom1:00to10:00 announced. Grenadines, hasbeenpostponeduntilDecember2015,withexactdatestobe Conference, initiallyscheduledtobeheldonApril28thand29thinSt.Vincent&the leaves awidow,Maggie,sonPaulanddaughtersVirginiaSue. Naval Architects,havingbeenamembercontinuouslyfor60years. finally retiredin2000.In2009hereceivedHonoraryStatusoftheRoyalInstitution years. Hecontinuedasasurveyorandconsultant,however,claimedtohave Antigua SlipwayLtd.,andasManagingDirectorprospereduntilhisretirementat65 motoryachts, alongwithLaurentGilesandArthurRobbsailingyachts. boatbuilding trainingschoolsthathaveappearedintheUKsince. SuperMarine’s aircraftfactoryin1966.Thiswastheforerunnerofallyacht-and pose-built trainingcentreatWoolston,Southamptononthebombed-outsiteof to trainnewapprenticesinthefirstyearoftheirapprenticeshipfulltimeatapur- draughtsmen tohelp. metre) motorsailers.HebecameWorksDirectorandIn-houseDesignerwithtwo designed manyothercraftbuiltbytheyard,includingHorizonclass32-foot(9.8 boats, whichheracedtwiceintheearlyCowesTorquaypowerboatraces.Healso company inMaine.HedesignedandbuiltthePacemakerseriesofsmallpower- and half-a-dozenstrip-plankedconvertiblemotorsailingboatsforanAmerican had othertalentsandhesetuptheproductionlineforHerreshoff“Islanders” these boatswerebuilt,andmuchlaterhesawoneasfarafieldSt.Lucia. small yardinSwanwicktodesignandbuild to repairboatsatBosham,nearChichester. 1946 hewasde-mobbed,butastherenoworkavailablejoinedwithafriend vessels upto110feet(33.5metres)long. James Taylor(Chertsey)Ltd.,ontheThames.Hehadfiveyearsatthisyard,building English HarbourandFalmouthwereofftotheraces.” number-one yardintheEasternCaribbean,”writesDonStreet.“Andasaresult, — Rainbow BeachinFrederiksted. Celebrate thereefatlargestbeachpartyonSt.Croix!TheReefJam2015 Reef Jam,St.CroixonMay24th! Visit www.quaynote.comformoreinformation. Well, itis“islandtime”.TheFirstAnnualEasternCaribbeanInternationalYachting EC InternationalYachtingConferencePostponed He ledabusyexistenceinAntigua,untilfailinghealthcaughtupwithhim. After leavingPortHamble,in1967hesetupanewenterprisetheCaribbean, Port HambleduringthisperiodbuiltseverallargewoodenFredParker-designed He wasoneofthekeyfiguresinsettingupShipBuildingIndustryTrainingBoard David joinedPortHamblein1952thesalesdepartment,buttheysoonfoundhe David wasthencontractedtodesigna20-footfishingboat.In1950hejoined He thenbecameaRoyalNavyShipwright/DiverservingintheLevantStation.In David Simmondswasbornin1921England.In1938heapprenticedto “David arrivedatAntiguaSlipwayin1967,andafewshortyearsmadeitintothe David W.SimmondsofAntiguadiedonMarch26th. Eight Bells Continued frompreviouspage Sarcelle , a25-footsloop.Aboutsixof PM atRhythms with us! Curaçao, both (T&T totheGuianas),onpage12;andHydrovaneofUSThomasCanvas Anse, notUpperLucasStreet. last month’sissue,theaddressforUSEmbassyinGrenadashouldbeGrand Come toReefJamandsupporttheseprojects! are offeredsixmonthsoutoftheyearandorganizedbyBushTribeEco-Adventures. the mangroveswhilelearningabouttheirvitalimportancetoisland.Thesetrips Participants kayakthroughthe“biobay”onnighttripsortakeadaytripwadingin (SEA). ReefJamalsooffersfreepublicSaltRiverNationalParkAdventures. months outoftheyearandareorganizedbySt.CroixEnvironmentalAssociation free publicsnorkelclinicsallovertheisland.Thesearecurrentlyofferedsix local highschoolstudents),guestspeakersandinformationbooths,muchmore! T-shirt salesandraffleitems,ReefRap(alyricsperformancecompetitionfor marine-related gamesanddemonstrations),localtraditionalfoodvendors, live musicfeaturinglocalmusicians,aReeftivityZone(afamilyactivityzonewith marine educationandconservationeffortsonSt.Croix. reach.” Allproceedsfromtheannualmusicalfundraiserwillbeusedtosupportlocal marine conservationandstewardshipthroughcommunityeducationout- In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Regarding theneedforUScitizenstoobtainvisasvisitVenezuela,aspublishedin Department ofCorrections Visit www.ReefJam.comformoreinformation. Among otherprojectssinceitsinceptionin2008,ReefJamhasregularlyoffered This eighthannualmusicalfundraiserhasactivitiesforthewholefamily,withsolely Reef Jamisagrassroots,non-profitorganizationwithmissionto“encourage
Caribbean Compass in theMarketPlacesection,pages41through44.Goodtohaveyou wewelcomenewadvertiserstheNereid’sRally MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8
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ERDLE magazine, tells and servicesnotseenbeforeinColombia. Panama andothercountries,aswellfromtheUnitedStates,bringingproducts the exhibitorsatshowwereforeign,comingfromSpain,Italy,Venezuela, upon whichtogrow,”saysJulieBalzano,exportdevelopmentdirectorfortheNMMA. establish thosekeyrelationshipsinthismarketthatwillserveasasolidfoundation ued governmentsupport.WebelievethatnowisthetimeforourUSmembersto try willcontinuetogrow,includingplansfornewandexpandedmarinascontin- relatively smallmarket,indicatorscontinuetosuggestthatColombia’snauticalindus- ing prominentnauticalcompanieseagertodobusinessintheregion.“Whilestilla Manufacturers’ Association(NMMA)was20percentlargerthanlastyear,showcas- through 23rd.With20exhibitors,theUSPavilionsponsoredbyNationalMarine opening ceremony. areas tomarketBVIbusinessesoverseas,beforedeclaringtheTradeExpoopen. Virgin Islands,spokeaboutpromotingbusinesseslocally,investmentsanddeveloping last year‘sevent.KeynotespeakerDr.theHon.D.OrlandoSmith,PremierofBritish Sports ComplexinRoadTownonMarch21stand22nd,sawincreasedtrafficover among manyothers.TheCCTBuyBVITradeExpo2015,heldattheMulti-Purpose products fromSummit,Paint-Over-Rust,Eaton,PerkinsgeneratorsandJCBmachinery —Continuedonnextpage been throughsomechallengingandamazing situations.Allforagoodcause! have asourceoffreshwaterduringhislong andarduousjourney. now sponsoringVictorbypurchasingawater makerforhisrowboatsoVictorcan realized howspecialthismanisand importanthismissionis.SeaHawkPaintsis and stopthediscriminationagainstAIDS victimsaroundtheglobe. in 1983.Tobattlethisdiseasehehasembarkedonjourneytospreadawareness rowing aboatfromAfricatoNewYorkCityinhonorofhisbrotherwhodiedAIDS may makeasignificantdifferenceintheoutcome.” much morethanengineering,andtheproperexperienceattentiontodetail forum attheboatshow,comprehensiveandintegratedmarinaplanningrequires not technicalorengineering.Asdiscussedinthepresentationsofacademic sailing cruisersalike,butthekeyplanningstageisyettocome.Arguably,issue is have thepotentialofbecomingsignificantimprovementsforlocalcommunitiesand plans fornewfacilitiesinSanAndrés,ProvidenciaandRiohacha.Allthese and storagefacilitiesareplanningexpansions.” exterior), andthegoodnewsisthatmanyofestablishedbusinesseswithrepair already knowmanyofthefacilitiesavailableinBayCartagena(interiorand close tothisprofessionallyrunmarina. ing isalsoaimedatotheryachtingusers;anumberofnaturalattractionsarevery also madethepointthattheywelcomesailingcruisers,evenifalotoftheiradvertis- berthing andfuturedrystorage,”hesays.“ThemanagersofMarinaSantaMarta comprehensive effortsbymanyactorsofbothpublicandprivatesectors. Compass who spoketoboatshowattendeesonresponsiblemarinadevelopment,tells years, IexpectColombiatohaveaverycruiser-friendlyface.” nas seemstobeabitfluiddependingonwhomyoutalkbutwithinthenextfive er ascruisersorcitizenslookingtopurchaseavessel.Thetargetednumberofmari- of marinasandtherelaxationtaxesfeesforpeoplebringingboatsin,wheth- develop thecountry’sentireCaribbeancoast.Thisincludesfuturedevelopment of governmentofficialsandprivateinvestorsgatheredtodiscussColombia’splan BUSINESS BRIEFS Yachting writerZuzanaProchazka,whowasonhandtocovertheeventfor According toreportsinthelocalnewspaper In Colombia,thethirdCartagenaInternationalBoatShowwasheldMarch21st Development DiscussedatCartagenaBoatShow Visit www.partsandpower.comformoreinformation. Parts &Power‘sTonyTuckettwasinvitedtospeakonbehalfoftheexhibitorsat Parts &PowerhadalargestandatthemostrecentBVITradeExpo,withfeatured Parts &PowerShinesatBVITradeExpo For moreinformationonSeaHawkPaints seeadsonpages11,13and15. Visit www.goreechallenge.comformore informationonVictorMooney. From beingrobbedbypiratestohisboat beingattackedbyashark,Victorhas Sea HawkPaints’CEO,ErikNorrie,metVictor attheMiamiBoatShow2015and Victor Mooneyisacourageousandpassionatemanwhoon5,000-milejourney Sea HawkPaintsHelps5,000MileRowtoFightHIV/AIDS Biondi adds,“Onthepublicsectorfront,governmentismovingforwardwith its “Puerto Veleroisprobablythekeyfacilityforsailboatsinregion,withitsexisting Esteban Biondi,AssociatePrincipalofAppliedTechnologyandManagement,Inc., multi-faceted Todomar a varietyofmarinefacilities;thisthe Colombia’s CartagenaBayislinedwith , “IthinkthatColombiawillenhanceitsboatinginfrastructureasaresultof Compass readers,“Ontheshow’sopeningday,acombinedgroup Caribbean Compass El Universal , morethan30percentof readersprobably SAIL
MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9
ANTIGUA CHARTER YACHT MEETING Continued from previous page Continued from “For a machine to remain in excellent condition after 30 years of continuous use Visit www.jolly-harbour-marina.com for more information about Visit www.marinetravelift.com for more information about Marine Travelift. IYT’s Solution to Certification Fraud Owing to the continued increase of counterfeit marine certificates, International In 2011 IYT began to develop an online school and student database and antici- The system was implemented early in 2014 and has been very well received by the Ami Ira of Crew Unlimited, a crew placement agency in Fort Lauderdale, com- IYT is a marine certification authority with almost 200 partner schools in 52 countries, Visit www.IYTworld.com for more information. If you have attended the show before, you can continue to use the same user If you have attended the show before, you can continue Visit www.antiguayachtshow.com for more information. Jolly Harbour Marina Purchases New Travelift Marina in Antigua has pur- Marine Travelift Inc. has announced that Jolly Harbour storage for 200 boats, a Jolly Harbour Marina provides 155 new concrete berths, Antigua Charter Yacht Show Registration Now Open Yacht Show Registration Antigua Charter Antigua can now register for the 2015 press and marine vendors Yachts, agents, and regular wear and tear, Jolly Harbour clearly has put extra TLC into it,” he said. “That means the staff stayed up to date with routine maintenance, and they sched- uled annual inspections with our factory-trained technicians.” Jolly Harbour Marina. Yacht Training (IYT) recognized the need for real-time verification of qualifications and has incorporated a verification QR code into certificates. Scanning the QR code using a smart phone takes you directly to a secure server that verifies the stu- dent’s identity and IYT qualifications. Information regarding the school attended and instructor who taught the class is also available. pated the need for more sophisticated security measures. Certificates now include a photograph, unique QR code, hologram, holographic film overlay and signature strip. industry. The ability to immediately verify certificates has proven ideal for crew agencies, yacht management companies, charter companies, marine surveyors, yacht captains and certificate holders. During a recent MCA audit of IYT the auditor was delighted with the security features, especially the QR code. mented, “We do appreciate the login/QR code. I wish all the licensing authorities would offer the same.” including three in the Caribbean, and offers courses and qualifications for both rec- reational and commercial use. name and password to reactivate your registration for this year’s show. If you are name and password to reactivate your registration for new to the show please follow registration instructions. machine was on display at chased a new 75 BFM II mobile boat hoist. This particular the Miami International Boat Show in February. maintenance and repair, dedicated cradle yard, and large work area for engine Not only has the longtime yacht painting, carpentry, and duty-free fueling services. its operation, it has received Marine Travelift customer added the new 75-ton unit to was manufactured in 1985. top dollar for its existing 70-ton mobile boat hoist, which there are two major According to Jason Johnson, Marine Travelift’s sales manager, reasons for this. Charter Yacht Show, to be held from December 4th through 10th. Yachts registering 4th through 10th. Yachts Show, to be held from December Charter Yacht ten-percent discount. July 31st will receive a and paying before — MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 choice foryou. or acompleterefit,GrenadaMarineistheideal side re-sprayorasimplebottomjob,completerepower making itpossibletohaulboatsaswide31.5feet. marine traveliftthathasaninsidewidthof32feet, Camper Nicholson’sPortLouisMarinainSt.George’s. 250-boat capacity. southeast coastintheparishofSt.Davidandhasa Wider CaribbeanRegion. with internationalstandardsforyachtsinthe services instorage,repairsandmaintenanceaccordance • So,whetheryouarelookingforsummerstorage,atop- • GrenadaMarineboastsacustomdesigned70-ton • WealsohaveanoutpostofficelocatedontheJDockof • This“onestopshop”boatyardislocatedonGrenada’s • GrenadaMarinecontinuesitsoperationswithquality GRENADA MARINE THIS SUMMER! THINK re-emergence ofSIOBMPAasayachting stopofchoice. greater economicbenefitfromcloserinteraction withvisitingyachts,allissetforthe of Carriacou.Withcommitmentfromfishing communitiesthatseepotentialfor Beach, hassetthestageforyachtvisitors toenjoythelocalfood,cultureandspirits eight feetatL’EsterreBay,astone’sthrow awayfromtheshorelineofParadise mooring failure. prior tothisinstallationprojectisexpected tosignificantlylessenthelikelihoodof funds areavailableformaintenanceandsupportofSIOBMPAactivities. fund, willalsoallowmanagementgreatercontroloveruserfeesandensure that servation (yachtmooring)andotheruserfees,insteadofthegeneralconsolidated turing userfees,augurwellforthefuture. announced plansforhiringafull-timemanagerandadministrativestaffrestruc- stakeholder co-managementboard,includingChairmanSebastianStiell,aswell as tenance costs.Inthisregard,thehighenergyandinitiativeofnewSIOBMPA management andforsustainablestreamsoffinancingtocoveroperationsmain- aimed ataddressingfinancialandoperationalefficiencieshavebeenaddressed. no efforthasbeensparedinensuringsustainabilityofthemooringfield,andmeasures the initialinstallation,lackoffinancingformaintenanceandimproperuse.Thistime, tunes wheremooringsinstalledin2010degradedovertime,owingtodeficiencies in Sutton, providedsupportandadvicetoSIOBMPA. Association ofGrenadawho,intheformRussFielding,JamesPascalandAnita was alsosupportedbyprivatesectorinterest,includingtheMarineandYachting Caribbean FishSanctuaryPartnershipInitiative(http://c-fish.org).Theendeavour CARIBSAVE andtheCaribbeanCommunityClimateChangeCentreaspartof the ings atSIOBMPAwerere-installedthankstoagrantfromUKAIDimplementedby through protectionofcoralreefs,hascomealivewiththisnewinitiative.Themoor- ment andprovidebenefitstofisheries,sustainablelivelihoodsconservation, marine protectionarea,whichaimstolowerhumanimpactsontheenviron- the largestofGrenadineislands. Bed MarineProtectedArea(SIOBMPA)locatedonthesouthwestcoastofCarriacou, tection andeconomicrevitalizationtocommunitieswithintheSandyIsland/Oyster greater environmentalpro- this initiativepromises line withtheseprinciples, the EasternCaribbean.In Marine ProtectionAreasin for sustainablefinancingof and forsettingafoundation spots foryachtstomoor providing safeandsecure from anchordamage,for of themarineenvironment being essentialtoprotection Moorings arerecognizedas moorings atL’EsterreBayinCarriacou,GrenadawascompletedonMarch20th. local communities. has setthestageforgreaterenvironmentalprotectionandeconomicrevitalizationof restoration projectatSandyIsland/OysterBedMarineProtectedAreainCarriacou Petrel nestsinDominicawouldoffergreathopeforthisendangeredseabird. burrows. TheonlyconfirmednestingareasforthisspeciesareontheislandofHispaniola. about thisexcitingfindonTheNatureIsland. radar butalsowithnightvisionspottingscopes. to differentsitesaroundtheisland,morepetrelsweredetected,notjustthrough moving acrosstheradarscreen.Everynightfornextfewweeks,astheymoved which iswhentheyreturntoland. the teampartneredwithDepartmentofForestrytodetectbirdsflyingatnight, Dominica, includingMorneDiablotin,whichisnamedafterthepetrel.Usingradar, expedition inJanuarytoseekoutthiselusivepetreltheremotemountainsof near thecapitalcityinrecentyears,raisinghopethisseabirdmightstillbepresent. the islandofDominicawas150yearsago.Acouplebirdshavebeenfoundgrounded CARIBBEAN Installation ofmooringsforcatamarans and smallyachtswithdraftsoflessthan Additionally, trainingofwardensininstallation, useandmaintenanceofmoorings The recentCabinetapprovalofadedicatedbankaccountfordepositcoralcon- Critical tothemaintenanceofmooringsystemisrequirementforstrong For SIOBMPA,thisnewbeginningrepresentsasoliddeparturefromitspastmisfor- Buoyed bynewmanagementarrangementsin2014,SIOBMPA,a659-hectare The restorationof16mooringsystemsatSandyIslandandinstallationfivenew Davon Baker,SkeetaCarasco,OwenDayandNewtonEristheereport:Amooring Moorings RestoredinCarriacou Visit www.epicislands.orgformoreinformation. The nextmajorstepistohiketheruggedmountainsidesinsearchofpetrelnesting Using mediaandschoolpresentations,theresearchershelpedtospreadword On theirfirstnight,thecrewwasthrilledandshockedtofinddozensof“targets” Environmental ProtectionintheCaribbean(EPIC)biologistAdamBrownledan The lasttimethegloballyendangeredBlack-cappedPetrelwasrecordedbreedingon Rediscovering a‘Lost’Species ECO —Continued onpage46 -NEWS MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 readers. Compass Favorite boat: “All the boats: Rufus Clement lives near He began sailing at ten years Starting out sailing Optimists, with her husband, JAK, Topaz, Opti, double-ender.” Carriacou’s airstrip. He is in Form 5 at Bishop’s College high school. His favorite subject? Integrated Science. old. When a new junior sailing program started just down the road in 2012, Clement joined. He says that from the beginning he recognized the educational opportunities. He learned boat parts, swimming, knots, weath- er and safety. Boldly Go
by Ellen Birrell
, a local J/105. The owner says, “Rufus has helmed and , a local J/105. The owner says, “Rufus has helmed and Youth2Adult Jab-Jab in the Caribbean Highlighting Junior Sailing Junior Highlighting Ellen Birrell cruises the Caribbean aboard Alexander’s message to Alexander’s message to Ryan Alexander participated Ryan Alexander St. Lucian. 26 years of age. Employment: Yacht Rufus Clement Junior Sailing (LJS) Carriacou, Grenada. 15 years of age. Member: L’Esterre When asked what he’d like to do within the club going forward, “Drive the power We get what we celebrate. Y2A is an ongoing series in which we’ll celebrate what We get what we celebrate. Y2A is an ongoing series in a mechanic on inboard and Rufus’ mother is a restaurant cook and his father In this series, we’ll check into what some Caribbean youth are learning and what In this series, we’ll check into what some Caribbean He has crewed on which affords him use of At 15, he has achieved the club’s “Senior Sailor” status Whether for the outcome of gaining a deeper understanding of the marine world gaining a deeper understanding of the marine world Whether for the outcome of Junior sailing is made up of both “learn to sail”, which the International Sailing to sail”, which the International is made up of both “learn Junior sailing When does a child become a youth then become an adult? How important is this become an adult? How important child become a youth then When does a Jim Hutchins. On the board of the Caribbean Sailing Association, Ellen’s passion is junior sailing development. For more information visit http://caribbean-sailing.com/youth/youth-calendar. Caribbean youth: “The reason why I really love sailing is because I like to travel around the region and the world. You could also work on big cruise ships and travel.” in St. Lucia Yacht Club’s junior sailing program as a teenager. Once out of high school he worked in construction and plumbing, but remained involved with racing sailboats. Now he is assistant coach at SLYC and a yacht caretaker at IGY Marina Rodney Bay. In addition to his two jobs in the marine industry, he is on a J/24 race team and sails in regattas around the Caribbean. Caretaker/IGY Marina Rodney Caretaker/IGY Marina Rodney Bay and Assistant Coach/St. Lucia YC Junior Sailing safety boat!” we have and what can be. So let’s meet our first two featured Caribbean sailors: we have and what can be. So let’s meet our first two outboard engines. Rufus indicates he’d like to develop himself in both the restaurant and marine engineering areas. adults have come to know working within marine-based livelihoods. adults have come to know working within marine-based certain boats on Sundays, with permission but unattended. that surrounds them or simply engaging the brain and staying off the street, junior engaging the brain and staying off the street, junior that surrounds them or simply in uniting and strengthening communities. Once chil- sailing programs play a part learn how to rig and handle a dren learn about safety related to water and weather, better appreciate the world in dinghy or crew on a larger boat, they can go on to (cars and boats) and elec- which they live. Against a backdrop of motorized vehicles loudly from speakers, sailing tronics which blare quietly from handheld devices or and self. In a world where brings calm and allows one to get in touch with Nature apathy and violence, junior illiteracy, poverty and desperation can spawn despair, sailing brings a positive dimension. At 13, he raced a Topaz withhe now usually skippers one of the club’s two Topazes. has no Lasers in racing condi- crew against Lasers in the Carriacou Regatta (his club next year, he again competed,tion and the regatta does not offer a Topaz class). The class. “I was slower. Thethis time racing the Topaz single-handed within the Laser Topaz isn’t as fast as a Laser. But, I loved it!” asymmetric from the retract- been crew, including when we have flown the big pink able bowsprit!” Federation (ISAF) refers to as “recreational”, and competitive sailing. Most Caribbean and competitive sailing. refers to as “recreational”, Federation (ISAF) clubs have community-based junior sailing programs offer both. Some junior sailing are encouraged racing. Instead, youths in modern one-design relatively no interest and teamwork related to local wooden boats (a.k.a. to learn the skills of sailing and standing boats, etcetera). Most clubs are a mixture double-enders, workboats, crewing on sophisticated yachts. some include getting youths Featuring the “Caribbean youth or adult next door”, we celebrate junior sailing and next door”, we celebrate junior “Caribbean youth or adult Featuring the within to gainful adult employment local youth from childhood its role in ushering world and coax appreciation for the marine Youth sailing can the marine industry. self-esteem. skills, teamwork and build seamanship process? Youth2Adult — Y2A — is a new series of articles for — Y2A — is a new process? Youth2Adult MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 winds makeitnighimpossible,whileothersinsisttheseas Well likesagoodmyth,andwhiletherealityis everyone America... Some say the ferocious currents and contrary America... Somesaytheferociouscurrentsandcontrary scheduled forSeptember, mightbejustthethingtospice And so,ratherthanhunkerdownforsixmonthswaiting Myths aboundonsailingfromtheCaribbeantoSouth for thenextsailingseason,whynotindulgeinvisiting some oftheleastknownanchoragesinAtlantic... are rifewithpiratesbentonpillageandplunder! not nearlyasexciting,theannualNereid’s Rally, up an otherwise dullmaintenanceseason. up anotherwise www.marinaslm.com/rally For more information goto: For moreinformation TEMPTED? —Continuedonnextpage Island WaterWorld with sprayeverywhere. ing onthedownwind, by high-octanesurf- upwind wasrewarded jarring wetride course, thebone- windward-leeward Racing onatwo-mile ing inthetroughs. seas, oftendisappear- braved thelumpy eral boatstospinout. pressure causingsev- forming bulletsof ed overthehilltops from theeastcascad- but thebigbreeze from theoceanswell provided somerelief testing conditionsforthefleet.ThestartingareaonsouthsideofSt.Maarten St. MaartenHeinekenRegatta.Thirtyknotsofwindwithbreakingwavesprovided to timeextendleadstheyhadsecuredfromthestartofevent. to thefinishoffNeckerIsland.Allthreegroupwinnersclaimedbulletsoncorrected 25-nautical-mile coursethatbroughtthemwesttoGreatCamanoeIslandandback Islands fora21-milecourse,whilethelargerClassAboatswentontocomplete final day,followingasinglestartforallclasses,theClassByachtsroundedDog Bob andKristinBeltrano,claimedthetopspot. our calendar.” this gentleman’sregattahascapturedourheartsandbecomeafirmfixtureon ning. ThisisonlythesecondeditionofRolexSwanCupCaribbeanbutalready manship andcamaraderiethathascharacterizedourpartnershipfromthebegin- ing forover30yearsandthisweekhasembodiedthespiritofcollaboration,sports- “There isagoodreasonwhyYCCS,Nautor’sSwanandRolexhavebeencollaborat- these windsthiswasourshot!” solid crewtraining.We’vehadtwosecondsintheRolexSwanCupbefore,sowith whole week,nomajormistakesorfailures.Wehadaverygoodpreparation, tight-knit crew:“Theconditionssuitedtheboatandboyssailedreallywell the boatreallywell.” We’ve beenabletoidentifythestrengthsamongourcrewanddomaneuverson secret of with RolexweretheSwan80 organized bytheYachtClubCostaSmeraldaandNautor’sSwanincollaboration in theBritishVirginIslands,attracted21yachts.OverallIRCwinnersofevent Martinique andJulesMitchellofAntigua. place intheLaserRadialcategoryafter12races,frontofKevinDufeal boats andkayaks. classes ofdinghies,windsurfersandbeachcats.Newthisyearwereracesforrowing on theannualcalendarofFrenchSailingFederation.Racesareheldforvarious around theCaribbean.OrganizedbyNauticalCircleofSchœlcher,eventis 13th to17thinMartinique,attractedcompetitorsfromEurope,theAmericasand win fortheteamfromMartiniquebyasingle pointfrom race oftheday, hour racebyjustovertwominutesfromNicolas Gillet’s made amagnificentcomebackinthefirst racetowinthestamina-sappingtwo- Trophy. IntheClassBboatssailingunderCSArulesSwan53 Both receivedRolextimepiecesandwereawardedtheSwanCupCaribbean REGATTA NEWS Eight Melges24s A recordentryof81yachtsenteredtheGillCommodore’sCup,preludeto Record Fleet,BigWindforGillCommodore’sCup Terry Halpin(USA),skipperof The weekwascharacterizedbyeasterlywindsofapproximately20knots.Onthe Visit www.nautorswan.comandwww.yccs.comformoreinformation. YCCS CommodoreRiccardoBonadeosummeduptheethosofregatta: James Blakemore,ownerof The secondeditionoftheRolexSwanCupCaribbean,heldMarch3rdthrough7th Teamwork KeyinRolexSwanCupCaribbean Visit www.cnschoelcher.netformoreinformation. Notable wasthevictoryofSt.LuciansailorStephanieDevaux-Lovell,whowonfirst The 25thEditionoftheInternationalSchoelcherNauticalWeek,heldfromFebruary St. LucianSailorExcelsatSchoelcherWeek Selene isthefantasticteamthatwehavebeenbuildingupoveryears. GFA Caraibes , skipperedbyFritsBus,finishedinthirdplace fortheclass. Budget Marine/Gill LAURENS MOREL Selene Music Selene wasaweapondownwind,whichsecured theclass , alsounderlinedtheimportanceofhavinga inClassAandtheSwan53 , puttheirsuccessdowntoteamwork:“The , withAndreaScarabellionthehelm, GFA Caraibes Budget Marine/Gill Nai’a Music , ownedby . Inthefinal inClassB. . Team
MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13
P2
won , was . Wisp also Seahawk, Perm P2 with less crew held off Albacor IV L’Esperance , was second took the line by took the line completed a mag- Speedy Nemo in CSA 7. The two Lazy Dog Cape Arrow Lazy Dog Red Star , skippered by former 49er , revelled in the big condi- , revelled in the and was the winner in Bareboat 3, was the winner , won the last race in CSA 2, com- and Igor Omelchenko’s and Igor Omelchenko’s taking third. . Mike Cannon, from Florida, said, “This , won the five-way Gunboat shootout Hamachi Budget Marine/Gill P2, Freya , with Pier Luigi Loro Piana at the helm Elvis Hamachi Red Star Budget Marine Aruba Dingo , skippered by Nicolas Gillet. just one point behind in third place. Kiev Racing Yacht Club KHS&S Contractors Freya , raced by the St Maarten Sailing School, was the win- Cape Arrow won the class. Sophie Olivaud’s J/109, KHS&S Contractors with , skippered by Angus Ball, in third. GFA Caraibes just metres from the finish line. The 125-foot Perini Navi sloop Inoui Maelia notched up her second bullet of the event. A DNF in the first (Class B). Unofficial accolades also went to the new ORCsy hand- (Class B). Unofficial accolades also went to the new ORCsy as the pair blasted past Plum Beach to lead for the beat back to as the pair blasted past Plum Beach to lead for the beat Freya Moondance Marie raced side-by-side in the tough conditions. in the tough conditions. raced side-by-side Soca Coco de Mer and spoke about his friendship with Bobby Velasquez. “The name and spoke about his friendship with Bobby Velasquez. boat used to comes from Bobby’s grandfather; many years ago that had a titanic struggle with St. Maarten Heineken Regatta’s founder, had a titanic struggle with Seahawk , it was not sufficient to unseat the 180-foot Hoek-designed ketch from the , skippered by Spike Abram, was just a point behind the winner with the , skippered by Spike Abram, was just a point behind the Marie , meanwhile, claimed her second consecutive bullet to assure her overall victory Continued from previous page Continued from Only two points separated the top three boats in Class A heading into the final In Bareboat 4, two teams from the Russian Sailing Federation enjoyed a fantastic Sailing Federation enjoyed two teams from the Russian In Bareboat 4, In CSA 2, Greg Slyngstad’s American J/125, Slyngstad’s American J/125, In CSA 2, Greg Both classes completed an anti-clockwise round-the-island course on the last day The 36th edition of the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta will take place March 3rd The 36th edition of the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta information. Visit www.heinekenregatta.com for full results and more P2 and Marie Triumph at Caribbean Superyacht Regatta Regatta & RendezvousThe final day of the BVI’s Loro Piana Caribbean Superyacht The Catalina 36 winner was Mike Sixty-three bareboats raced in the event. The overall bareboat New Yorker Jason Carroll’s Gunboat 62, Mike Cannon and Neil Harvey’s Mike Cannon In the Melges 24 Class, Andrea Scarabelli’s CSA Class 8: Raphael Three yachts from St. Barths occupied the podium for Visit www.loropianacaribbeansuperyachtregatta.com for more information. 62-Boat Fleet for St. Thomas International Regatta Carol Bareuther reports: The 42nd St. Thomas International Regatta, presented by TAG During the prizegiving, attended by the BVI Premier Dr. Orlando Smith, In Class B, San Francisco’s Greg Slyngstad’s J/125, Visit www.heinekenregatta.com for more information. Visit www.heinekenregatta.com Roaring! 35th St. Maarten Heineken Regatta: the largest racing fleet in the Caribbean this season, With big breeze and probably 45 figure in St. Maarten and his team on Beneteau Sir Bobby Velasquez is a famous that took them from a downwind start on a spectacular run to Round Rock off the southwestern tip of Virgin Gorda. A long and challenging upwind beat followed as the boats battled ten-foot waves around the back of Virgin Gorda before finishing just off the North Sound. race. A battle to the finish ensued between battle. For three hours, Yury Kharazyan’s battle. For three tions, scoring two straight bullets on the windward-leeward racetrack, beating some racetrack, two straight bullets on the windward-leeward tions, scoring Rican J/122, Sergio Sagramoso’s Puerto top competition. Trinidad team racing with Peter Peake’s Yacht Center — than 40 seconds separating the top three boats across the line after 29 miles of rac- ing. The Southern Wind yacht icap rule, implemented for the first time during this event, which assured compacticap rule, implemented for the first time during this event, racing and scene-stealing finishes throughout. The event, organized by the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda and Boat International Media, ran from March 11th to 14th. second, just one point ahead of Raymond Magras’ Dufour 34, second, just one point ahead of Raymond Magras’ Dufour — awesome serious fun!” is a great place to race… this is just an incredible regatta through 6th, 2016. victory awarded to brought three days of tight racing to a close and saw overall (Class A) and ner of the St. Maarten Youth Challenge. Team coach Garth Steyn said, “It is fantas- ner of the St. Maarten Youth Challenge. Team coach over 30 local kids sailing in tic for the team to win the youth challenge, but to see is just fantastic, after racing this regatta on different boats is awesome. Their attitude all the sails and equipment hard all weekend, the whole crew helped me change I am so very proud for the cruising set-up, so I can go back to work tomorrow. of them.” Cannon and Neil Harvey’s Simpson Bay and win the last battle by under three minutes. just 30 seconds, winning the class. just 30 seconds, margins. The Gunboat 62 on the very last race of the regatta by the narrowest of Tribe Gunboat 66 to win in a highly com- nificent performance, scoring its fourth win in the last race two points from a crack petitive one-design fleet. The team won the class by just Martinique team racing Magras’ team racing gained the upper hand on the race course on the last day to place second ahead of overall top spot which she had held since Day One. The Perini Navi ketch received the Loro Piana Prize - Boat International Media Trophy for the lowest scor- ing superyacht overall. Heuer, was held March 27th through 29th. Some boats leapt into the lead while others strengthened their front-runner status on the third and final day of racing. The 62-boat fleet, boasting entrants from the Caribbean, the USA and Europe, competed in eight classes on round-the-buoy and round-the-rock courses with ten to 15 knots of breeze. —Continued on next page at 190 feet in length the giant of the fleet, took third place overall. P2 over the Vitters ketch race however, caused by a rigging failure, meant she was able to climb no higher than third place overall. Although the 2014-launched Royal Huisman sloop and Francesco De Angelis calling tactics, stormed down the final stretch to over- take the Swan 90 highly experienced sailors were closely matched on the water but highly experienced sailors were L’Esperance congratulations to Bobby take water to Oyster Pond when there was none. Many for organizing such a and all the crew, and to the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta successful and enjoyable event.” all four races and was awarded the Most Worthy Performance of the event. Prime the Most Worthy Performance of the event. Prime all four races and was awarded Honorable Marcel Gumbs, awarded the trophy to Minister of St. Maarten, the L’Esperance Two Puerto Rican yachts pleting a clean sweep of five straight bullets in the class. the honour of top Melges went into the last race scrapping for second place and 32 at the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. Sergio Sagramoso’s Luis Juarbe’s Robbie Ferron, and his crew on the J/39 Robbie Ferron, and his crew just over seven minutes ahead of just over seven minutes ahead Harvey said, “We got off to a great start and the World Champion, Rodian Luka. well in tough conditions, so we are delighted with our crew handled the boat really not least, well done to the race committee for setting overall performance. Last but a really good course today.” Regatta, held March 5th through 8th, was a roaring the 35th St. Maarten Heineken and intense competition gave the regatta success. Fantastic sailing conditions lay on a tremendous spectacle — and they didn’t fail. organizers the opportunity to many competitors showed their appreciation for the Of the 2,000 sailors taking part, format of the regatta. courses, sailing instructions and L’Esperance MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 —Continuedonnextpage perfect sixbulletstofollowtheirlinehonours victoryintheRoundTortolaRace. CSA Multihull1,thetrimaran Juarbe’s and DaveDebbieClasen’sTartan10, However nexttime,Iwilllookaround— willdefinitelybeback.” is fantastic,butIhavebeenfocusingon driving andnotreallylookingatthescenery. hard, righttomylimitandabitbeyond. This hasbeenafabulousregatta,thevenue champions racing,soitisareallygoodteam.Thecrewhavebeenpushingme really surprised,butTeamVarghasanOlympicgoldmedallistandmanyworld out howtosteertheboatwithouthittinganythingexpensive,”admittedOla.“Iam before thestartofthisregatta,Iwouldhavesaidno.Myambitionwastojustfigure driver foraboatofthispedigreeandsize.“Ifyouhadaskedmeifwecouldwin the lastday.OlaHoxisafastlearner:thisfirsttimehehasbeenprincipal Norwegian OlaHox’sTP52, of challengingracing.Sailorsfrom14differentnationsparticipated. the wind,wavesandcoursesvariedeveryday,givingparticipantsawidevariety extensive timeonthewaterinthreedaysofracing,April3rdthrough6th.Thisyear an inspirationtofuturegenerationsofVirginIslanders. take theplaceamongartefactsofVirginIslandscultureandhistoryact as College, thehomeofVirginIslandsMaritimeMuseum.Thesloop over theCaribbeanandIhopethatthiswillgrowforyearstocome.” — thatwayyoureallyknowhowtomakethemgofast.Therearesloopsracingall should besailingtheseboats,andlearninghowtobuildthemisalsoveryimportant for speed.Itisallaboutboatspeedwithasloop.TheyoungsailorsfromtheBVI constantly talkingtothetrimmers;easingmainforbalanceandpullingonjib a littlerough,butIcomefromlonglineofwinnersandweknowhowtofight!was with hisfatheratjusttenyearsofage. is 70yearsoldandhasbeensailingallhislife.Hestartedtolearnhowbuildsloops wife, Esmie,whohelpedtobuildtheboat. Nibbs haddreamedofbuildingasloopsincehewaschildandnameditafterhis won theNon-RatedCruisingClassaboardhisBeneteauFirst44.7, umphed aboardhisSantaCruz70, won theCSA3Class.InNon-SpinnakerClass,USVI’sSteveSchmidttri- lowed by HP40 sailedbyConnecticut’sSteveandHeidiBenjamin,earnedtheclasswinfol- sailors internationallyaremovingtosmaller-stylesportboats ing firstplacelastyearinthisclassthefinalrace. exciting. PuertoRico’sMarcoTeixidor,onhis ended secondandthird. Falcon F-16,ownedbySt.Thomas’PaulStoekenandTeriMcKennarespectively, back outandsailtoday.” back withoutussinking.Hestayedupallnightfixingtheboatsowecouldcome low competitors,”saysGardner.“Luckily,localboatbuilderMorganAverytowedus Cat Class. nication, andthisheritageisofgreatimportancetotheBritishVirginIslands. before motorvesselsandtelephones,thiswastheonlymeansoftravelcommu- Tortola Sloops:carryingcargoandpassengerstoneighbouringislands.Inthedays past theIndians,aroundFlannaganIslandandbacktoNannyCay. the regattaandannouncedcourse:NannyCayMarina,aroundPelicanIsland, the participantsto Museum, welcomed Islands Maritime Curator oftheVirgin Geoffrey Brooks, (BVI). Professor President VPBank and SjoerdKoster, British VirginIslands Governor ofthe S. DuncanOBE, His Excellency,John worthy participants: event hadtwonote- Day. Thisyear’s Maritime Heritage BVI SpringRegatta’s 2nd aspartofthe Cay, TortolaonApril from PerformanceYachtCharter.PuertoRico’sJonathanLipuscek’sJ/105, tion fromdayoneuntiltheend.CorrcharteredBeneteauFirst40 Corr’s LightRacingteam,headedbySt.Thomas’PeterCorr,helditsfirstplaceposi- Gardner andhusband,EricWhitte,whosailedtheirHobie16, Sagramoso explains. were verytighttheentireregatta.Racingwasintense—justlikeweit,” the end;wefinishedfourthinlastraceduetoacoupleofmistakes.Thescores the game.Thenwecamebackandwonfourracesstraight.Wealmostlostitat low islanderLuisJuarbe’s — 32 class.Intheend,PuertoRico’sSergioSagramoso’s Cruzan Rum. Limited Editiontimepieceandoneluckyfleetwinnerwouldearnhisorherweightin Colin Rathbun’s In CSARacing2,TonyMack’sTeamMcFly racingtheJ/122 The high-performanceCSARacing1classwasdecidedintheverylastracewith With nofewerthansixracesandasmany13,theBVISpringRegattaprovided Varied ConditionsforBVISpringRegatta Visit www.bvispringregatta.orgformoreinformation. At theprizegiving, “It wasn’ttoobadouttheretoday,”commentedPresley.“AroundTheIndiansitgot The bigboatCSA1classsawonlytwoentriesthisyear.Thisisn’toddbecausemany The VirginIslands-grownIC-24classwasthelargest,with20boats,andmost Flight Risk “We wereblind-sidedatthestartoffourthraceonSaturdaybyoneourfel- The mostrecentlybuiltsloop, The raceofapproximatelytenmilesechoedtheoriginal,century-olduse The secondAnnualVPBankTortolaSloopSpringChallengetookplaceoffNanny Historic TortolaSloopsRace Visit www.stthomasinternationalregatta.comformoreinformation. A collisionalmostendedthehopesforapodiumfinishCalifornia’sAnnie “We weren’tabletostartthefirstraceonFriday,sowethoughtwereoutof A tiebreakerdecidedthechampioninhighlycompetitiveone-designMelges Class-winning skipperstookhometheprizeofaTAGHeuerAquaracerCaribbean Continued frompreviouspage Soca Conviction finishedfirstintheBeachCatclass. won two of the last day’s races to win the Melges 32 one-design class. In wontwoofthelastday’sracestowin Melges 32one-designclass.In Tortola Express Esmie , aTP52sailedbyClintBrooksfromBarbados.IntheCSA2Class,
TODD VAN SICKLE wasgenerouslydonatedtotheH.LavityStouttCommunity Soca Triple Jack Team Varg retained the IC-24 one-design title won last year, and Luis retainedtheIC-24one-designtitlewonlast year,andLuis Esmie byearningthemostfirst-placefinishes. Hotel CaliforniaToo , wasthewinnerofrace.BuilderLeando , skippered by Tortolan Ryan Wooldridge, scored a , skipperedbyTortolanRyanWooldridge,scored a , winningtheclassbyscoringtwobulletson Windemon Esmie’s Cachondo Island Sol Bequia-bornskipper,PresleyKing, , wasvictoriousinCSARacing3. Lazy Dog . St.Thomas’KevinGregory , handilytriumphedafterlos- , aHobie16,and . Spookie El Ocaso Flight Risk triumphedoverfel- Odyssey was the winner, wasthewinner, Esmie , aCarkeek Southern Child , intheBeach Whiplash . willnow Dark Star , a , MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 , after a highly competi- Boat 9/Ghalazio 2 , was the winner of CSA Jib and Main 1, scoring no of CSA Jib and Main 1, , was the winner The Nereid’s Rally is an annual yachting event open to the The Nereid’s Rally is an annual yachting event open to
Nai’a the World ARC 2014-15 fleet set out from St. Lucia to sail the World ARC 2014-15 fleet
to victory by a single point. to victory by , scored no lower than second in the eight-race series to win than second in the eight-race , scored no lower Girasoli Escapade , was the winner by a single point, scoring five straight bullets after a dis- five straight bullets after a by a single point, scoring , was the winner Paladin Continued from previous page Continued from Visit www.bvispringregatta.org for full results and more information. Visit www.bvispringregatta.org St. Lucia World ARC 2014-15 Ends in On January 10th, 2014, Bob Beltrano’s Swan 53, Bob Beltrano’s In Bareboat 1, Charles Garrard’s Team Merlin from the Boston Yacht Club scored six Team Merlin from the Boston Yacht Club scored In Bareboat 1, Charles Garrard’s Go South! The Nereid’s Rally 2015 David Matelicani reports: A Parade of Sail and official Prizegiving ceremony on April 11th provided a fitting fin- Prizegiving ceremony on April 11th provided a fitting A Parade of Sail and official reception in the eve- The Saint Lucia Tourist Board provided an enjoyable prizegiving Visit www.worldcruising.com/world_arc for more information. ON THE HORIZON… International Optimist Regatta, Clinic & Team Race the qualities that attract Excellent coaching, competition and camaraderie are will join us this year as the IOR “We anticipate even more teams from North America the best Optimist coaches in The Sea Star Clinic is set for June 15th to 17th. Some of 18th. The Sea Star Team Race competition takes place on June to the top five sailors in The IOR sets sail June 19th to 21st. Trophies will be awarded of Regatta, registration Visit www.styc.net or www.regattanetwork.com for Notice In Performance Cruising 2, the young team from St. Croix racing Stanford Joines’ from St. Croix racing Stanford Cruising 2, the young team In Performance Jonathan Pooley from Guernsey was the winner of CSA Multihull 2, racing the winner of CSA Multihull 2, racing from Guernsey was the Jonathan Pooley Held every Often billed as the Everything kicks off with a formal seminar in Chaguaramas, Trinidad on the 16th of Shortly after Trinidad’s premiere powerboat event, The Great Race, and An official welcome hosted by Guyana’s Minister for Tourism awaits participants on On the 18th of September the rally sets off again for the Maroni River on the bor- For more information visit www.marinaslm.com/rally and see ad on page 12. tive series of six races, and also won the fifth annual International Yacht Club tive series of six races, and a free charter on a Sunsail boat. Challenge and were awarded rupted start to the regatta. rupted start to lower than second in the six-race series. In CSA Jib and Main 2, Keith LiGreci’s CSA Jib and Main 2, Keith in the six-race series. In lower than second Jeanneau 40, the class. In Bareboat 2, Nils Boegborn’s Dutch team from the straight bullets to win the class. class winner on KNWV Yacht Club was the around the world. Among the crews were people of many nationalities, backgrounds crews were people of many nationalities, backgrounds around the world. Among the Since then, they have sailed well over 26,000 nautical and reasons for taking part. and visited more than 17 countries. As they arrived back miles, crossed three oceans special band of circumnavigators who have sailed the in St. Lucia, they joined the world on their own boats. paraded up the coast of St. Lucia accompanied by ish to the adventure. The fleet St. Lucia Yacht Club, media and supporters of World local boats, members of the crossed the ceremonial finish line in Rodney Bay there ARC in St. Lucia. After the fleet and at the IGY Rodney Bay Marina drinks reception was high emotion on the dock afterwards. the Honourable Lorne ning, and crews were welcomed back to Saint Lucia by Industries in Saint Lucia. Theophilius, Minister for Tourism, Heritage and the Creative coming back to the eight- to 15-year-old sailors and keep them and their families Sea Star Team Race. This trio International Optimist Regatta (IOR), Sea Star Clinic and Club, USVI, takes place of junior sailing events, hosted out of the St. Thomas Yacht June 15th to 21st. Optimist North American is a great opportunity to sail in the Caribbean before the director, Margo Lynch. Championships take place in Antigua in July,” says regatta Island Sailing Association- Nearly 100 junior sailors are expected to attend this Virgin regatta. hosted and Caribbean Sailing Association-sanctioned instructive on-land debriefs for the world conduct on-the-water training sessions and (Green Fleet) sailors. both advanced (Red, White and Blue Fleets) and beginner Clinic registration closes on May 15th. include the Peter Ives’ each fleet and top three overall. Additional trophies and the trophy for the top Perpetual Trophy, the Chuck Fuller Sportsmanship Award female sailor. forms, and more information. J/36, Outremer 51 — cruising community, competitive sailors and anyone else wishing to make the most of cruising community, competitive sailors and anyone else encompassing Trinidad & the Caribbean hurricane season. It is the only yacht rally Tobago, Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana. September, it runs for a little over a month, bringing together a varied group of cruis- ing yachtsmen and women keen to expe- rience the cultural diversity, natural beau- ty and unique flavour of the region. rally for people who aren’t really “rally peo- ple”, the event has always been more about visiting the destinations than just sailing. The Nereid’s Rally is neither a race, nor is it a flotilla. Yachts are encouraged to set their own pace and simply meet up for the official welcome ceremonies and social or cultural events. August where delegations from Guyana and French Guiana, together with rally rep- resentatives, showcase their attractions to potential visitors and rally participants. Crews preparing their yachts often arrive several weeks in advance to carry out routine maintenance. Independence Day celebrations, a send-off party marks the beginning of the rally proper, and gives participants one last chance to “lime” with the locals in either Trinidad or Tobago (there are two starts), before setting sail on either the 2nd or 3rd of September. This year we plan to present some Trinidad & Tobago talent to make the 2015 departure the most memorable to date. the 11th of September at Hurakabra Resort, Guyana. Crews will then be given the opportunity to visit indigenous communities, explore some of the natural wonders of the region or go sightseeing in the capital. der of Suriname and French Guiana, where locals from both sides of the river (Galibi and Awala-Yalimapo) will play host to the international navigators before their final welcome in Saint Laurent du Maroni on the 3rd of October, which marks the end of the rally. MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 by Sally Erdle boats fromCanouanandonePetiteMartinique.Theneighboringislandsmust can!” Thisyear’sdouble-enderfleetcamemostlyfromBequia,butalsoincludedthree said, “Weracetheyachtslikeothersdo,butwelocalboatsnooneelse races orsimplyenjoybeinginBequiaatEaster. sailing yachtscamefromnearandfartoseethelocalboatraces,followyacht Aside fromcompetingvesselsofallsorts,morethanahundredadditionalpowerand swimming raceandevenanew“kayak-a-thon”providedmoreon-the-wateraction. the BequiaSailingClub.Meanwhile,racesforchildren’scoconutboats,Optis,a 6th. Atotalof29yachtsand19localdouble-enderstookpartinracesorganizedby contests. EastertimeisBequiatime,andregattaspiritintheair. beach thatisn’thostingfestivitiesrangingfromall-inclusiveravestosandsculpture dinghies andchildren’smodelboatsmadefromcoconuthusks,it’shardtofinda the watersaredottedwithsailsofvisitingyachts,localdouble-enders,Optimist isn’t limitedtoa“regattavillage”—theentireeight-mile-longislandis ‘WE ALLHADAGREATTIME!’ Former PrimeMinisterofSt.Vincent&theGrenadines,SirJamesMitchell,once The 34thAnnualBequiaEasterRegattawascelebratedfromApril2ndthrough One thingthatmakestheannualBequiaEasterRegattauniqueisaction BEQUIA EASTERREGATTA2015 en fête . While
Double-Enders Class2,YachtsRacingandJ/24Class. Clockwise fromtopleft:YachtsCruisingClass1, ALL PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED PHOTOS: ALL new buildsincorporatinghigh-techmaterials,… traditional islandfishingcraft.Whilesomeoftheboatsare ment andideasfromracingyachts—isbasedonthatof sometimes gaff-rigged,andoftenmodernizedwithequip- 28-footers inClass7.Theopen,sprit-riggeddesign—now man 12-footersinClass1tothesix-(ormore) (there wasnoClass3thisyear),rangingfromthetwo- the traditionoftheirforebears. included some40youngBequiasailors,keentofollowin iconic Grenadineislandcraft:thedouble-endercrews ready totakeonthechallengeofcompetinginthese podium places!There’sclearlyanewgenerationofsailors have senttheirbestdouble-enders,sincetheyalltook Double-enders competedinsixlength-basedclasses Zulu in
Yachts CruisingClass2, —Continued onnextpage MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 , , , , , Melges 24, , Philippe Kerriou, .com , FF 110, Dik Guerts, , Frederick Sweeney, , , Vianney Saintenoy, , Beneteau First 45, , Beneteau Idylle 15.5, , C & C 44, , Paul Johnson, Barbados Regis Guillemot Charter Raven Bandos Digilife Kreyol Sandwich Orange Kreyol Sandwich Orange IWW Die Hard Fly Attitude ADSL O NET , Melges 24, Lucas Daunar, NOT CSA RATED 1) Mike Broughton, UK , Dubois 34, Dick Owens, SVG St. Lucia Surprise Class 1) Martinique 2) Stanley Dormoy, Martinique 3) Martinique Single-Handed Around Bequia CSA RATED 1) Surprise J/24 Class 1) Robbie Yearwood, Grenada 2) 3) , Alden 54, Eric Johnson, USA Stanley Dormoy, Martinique 2) Holland Zulu Other Business Hot Chocolate Regis Guillemot Charter No Limit No Fear Cruising Class 2 1) 2) Richard Inniss, Barbados 3) Rich Washington, St. Lucia/USA Racing Class 1) Regis Guillemot, France 2) Martinique 3) Melges 24, Regis Guillemot, Martinique 3) 3) The J/24 Southern Caribbean 2015 champs, Team IWW Die Hard from Grenada , left Skyler and , Beneteau First 38.5, , Sigma 38 FR, , Orson Ollivierre, , Lashie King, Bequia Black Berry , Hope DeRoche, , Ryan Marks, Bequia , Jojo Adams, Bequia , Kenus Tally, Bequia , Vernon Laidlow, , Evan John, Bequia , Mike Marks, Bequia , Hudson Williams, Canouan , FF 110, Dik Guerts, Holland , Javin Morgan, Bequia , Elmore Snagg, Canouan , Kimani James, Bequia , Allick Daniel, Bequia , Orekay Joseph, Bequia Skyler Black Berry Bandos Happy Morning Double Bluff O Connie Bennita G My Way D Shark Y Knot Ark Royal Liberty Camille Galaxy Nerissa J Eclipse Iron Duke Palm Tree Marine YACHTS Cruising Class 1 1) Mike Bingley, Grenada 2) 3) 1 tied) Bequia 3) David Onyons, UK DOUBLE-ENDERS Class 1 1) Class 2 1) 2) 3) Class 4 1) 2) 3) Class 5 1) 2) 3) Canouan Class 6 1) 2) Class 7 1 tied) The Bequia Sailing Club thanks Platinum Sponsors Hairoun (St. Vincent Brewery); Sponsors Hairoun (St. Vincent Club thanks Platinum The Bequia Sailing and Immigration, the SVG Coastguard, the Bequia Thanks also go to Customs information used in this report. Visit www.begos.com/ Thanks to Nicola Redway for Winners of BequiaWinners Easter Regatta 2015 Regatta Easter and second from right, shared the victory in double-enders’ Class 7 Petite Martinique The skippers of Gold Sponsors Mount Gay Rum (Vintages, Bequia) and the St. Vincent & the Bequia) and the St. Mount Gay Rum (Vintages, Gold Sponsors and Sandrock Sponsors United Insurance Authority; Silver Grenadines Tourism Bequia; and the Water, LIME and Action Sponsors Mountain Top Bequia; Bronze and Sugar Reef, De Reef, French House, Hotel, the Frangipani Hotel, Bequia Beach support for their exceptionally generous Edwin D Layne and Sons CK Greaves, and go also to Deputy event. Special thanks sporting and tourism of Bequia’s prestigious of St. Vincent and the Prime Minister Affairs Herman Belmar Director of Grenadine assistance and for their invaluable Dr. the Hon. Ralph Gonsalves & the Grenadines yacht registration. intervention during generous businesses in Bequia and St. Vincent, Tourism Association, numerous so the volunteers within the Sailing Club who worked loyal private donors, and all another big success. hard to make Regatta 2015 and a slide show. easterregatta for more information
, a from Palm Island Attitude Palm Tree came out and No Limit Skyler Black Berry, Hot Chocolate , skippered by had taken third Palm Tree Marine Bandos could not dent his Nobb — all with four points fought hard but was Hot Chocolate , a Beneteau Idylle 15.5, and , a Beneteau Idylle 15.5, and skippered by Evan John, and skippered by — at well over a century old a — at well over went into the final day tied with went into the final day tied Happy Morning O Connie — on the Friday, after going into Monday with six points Iron Duke Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot was enough to give them the overall first. was enough to give them the Nobb Island Water World Die Hard Other Business Regis Guillemot Charter, broke its rudder in the second of that class’s Digilife Kreyol Sandwich Orange • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Other Business Zulu from Barbados in second (skippered by Paul Fly Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 and and the Sigma 38
Zulu , with crew says, “We all had a great time despite our breakdown and crew says, “We all had a great time despite our breakdown Bandos , skippered by Vianney Saintenoy, also received the Spirit of Bequia , skippered by Vianney Saintenoy, also received the at the last day’s finish, which translated into a winning margin of 23.4 at the last day’s finish, which , “We are making steady improvement year on year — and we’ll be back!” , “We are making steady improvement year on year — the FF 100 Digilife skippered by Kimani James — again emerged victorious. Kimani James — again emerged skippered by , Overall Winner in the Surprise Class and Bunga Bunga
, an Alden 54 yawl, did battle with Easter Regatta regular , an Alden 54 yawl, did BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS Since 1984 Since
Continued from previous page Continued from The yacht side of the regatta was officiated for the 16th year running by The yacht side of the regatta was officiated for the 16th year running by …still in the racing fleet is the seine boat fleet is the seine boat …still in the racing In Classes 1 and 6, last year’s winners — 6, last year’s winners — In Classes 1 and there was 7, after the three-race series hotly contested 28-foot Class In the always In Cruising Class 2 regatta rookies In Cruising Class 2 regatta On the yacht side, boats were divided into one racing and two cruising classes, as one racing and two cruising side, boats were divided into On the yacht In Racing Class a broken mast on Day Two put an end to the promising start of In Racing Class a broken mast on Day Two put an end In the Surprise Class, first-timer The Gunning to win the highly competitive J/24 class for the second year in a row, Gunning to win the highly competitive J/24 class for Similar battles were waged in Cruising 1 between the Beneteau First 38.5 Similar battles were waged
[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]
Digilife recipient of the Spirit of Bequia Easter Regatta Award Principal Race Officer James Benoit from Grenada, working alongside the Bequia Principal Race Officer James Benoit from Grenada, working alongside the Bequia Sailing Club Race Committee. happy for Robbie as he has been doing really well this year and was also deserving happy for Robbie as he has been doing really well this of the others did superbly as of the overall win. The competition was keen and all the way we like it!” well, providing some close and exciting racing — just — a tie for overall winner at six points each between last year’s champion, between last year’s champion, winner at six points each a tie for overall living example of Bequia’s sailing heritage. living example Eclipse well as two one-design classes. skippered by Orson Ollivierre. skippered by Petite Martinique, skippered by Hope Deroche, and the homegrown and the homegrown skippered by Hope Deroche, Petite Martinique, one second of elapsed time separated going into the Monday. Just Tree Marine the ecstatic Team Palm Tree Marine. seconds on corrected time for Edson Hazell’s Bequia-based Etchells, second placed place just three seconds on corrected time behind the Compass had settled for second overall last year, at which time skipper Mike Bingley told last year, at which time skipper Mike Bingley had settled for second overall second place for Regis Melges 24. With two firsts already in the bag, even a last-day Guillemot in the second Melges 24, chances of taking yet another overall first in Bequia. eventually beaten for overall first by Championship is also award- from St. Lucia, in third. The J/24 Southern Caribbean of the Bequia Easter Regatta. ed annually in Bequia, decided by the Overall Winner This year the double crown went to Robbie Yearwood. Class, but we are also really losing our chance of securing a repeat win in the J/24 Scotia Bank Mount Gay Bunga Bunga apiece. and Vianney’s many years of Easter Regatta Award for excellence in competition Class. commitment to Bequia Easter Regatta and to the Surprise declared that they were three races on the Saturday. Skipper Charlie Gloumeau did. He also declared that determined to get it fixed by the Monday — which they also did! But the breakdown they would take two firsts on the final day — which they went to Grenada’s made them fall behind and the top place in the J/24 Class second-place winner, Johnson, who took third last year), and last year’s Water World Die Hard Zulu throughout the weekend. Admiralty Bay Triangle Race, three points each. In the final for the winner, and a second place Marine, MAY 2015 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 21 yearsandispopularwithlocalsforlunch.Achalkboardadvertisingthree his snowywhitepoloshirtandalsoonwornbrownleathersaddlebags. overhang. Iknewhewasapolicemanbecausehad‘Police’printedonthebackof A policemanonabicyclestoodchattingtosomelocalsintheshadeofonesuch give shadefromthesun.Everythingistoppedbyaredorgreycorrugatedironroof. ly Frenchandhavebalconieswithoverhangingroofstoprotectfromtherain regularly spacedwindowssurroundedbysturdyshutters.Othersaremoreelegant- no-nonsense Englisharchitecture:aclapboardupperfloorinpalemintgreenand stone wallsandarchedwindowsonthegroundfloor.Someofupperstoreysare surround itonallsides.Manyofthemlooklikeformerwarehouses,withsolidgrey and thenflungoutontoanotherbycentrifugalforce.Restoredcolonialbuildings trucks andopen-airtouristbusesswirlroundit,asifsuckedinfromonedustyroad made ofgreencastiron,standsinthecentreTheCircus.Cars,taxis,flatbed Memorial drinkingfountain,whichresemblesahugeornamentalmantelpiececlock husband, Kevin,andIhadsailedearlierthatday. seemed amillionmilesawayfromold-fashionedNevis,notjustthetenmy — anywhereelseinfact.ThebrashcruiseshipcomplexIwaswanderingthrough
Mrs. Moore’sfoodstallhasstoodinthesquarenearMuseumofSt.Kittsfor But onceIfoundtheoldtown,Basseterrebegantogrowonme.TheBerkeley Getting aTasteoftheTown My firstimpressionoftheislandSt.Kittsmademewanttobesomewhereelse FLOAT-ON FLOAT-OFF FLOAT-ON St. Kitts:It’sSomewhere Else!
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fromsails LIFT-ON LIFT-OFF LIFT-ON MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Above: Caribelle Batik’s gardens, viewed from the old plantation bell tower Above: Caribelle Batik’s gardens, viewed from the old Above left: The Berkeley Memorial drinking fountain resembles a huge ornamental Above left: The Berkeley Memorial drinking fountain resembles mantelpiece clock made of green cast iron —Continued on next page Continued from previous page Continued from Being Well Trained Kitts Scenic Railway. The We treated ourselves and explored St. Kitts on the St. Entry to the gardens costs US$2, and for US$11 you can use the pool for the day. Entry to the gardens costs US$2, and for US$11 you A cruise ship passenger A Garden of Several other yachts berthed at the marina during our stay and there were also during our stay and there yachts berthed at the marina Several other train runs on a section of narrow-gauge railway completed in 1926 that originally train runs on a section of narrow-gauge railway completed central processing factory at transported sugar cane from all over the island to a and the sugar industry col- Basseterre. In 2005 the EEC withdrew its subsidies lapsed, leaving St. Kitts reliant on tourism for income. There is a bar, a restaurant serving lunches and dinners, and the workshops of Shell There is a bar, a restaurant serving lunches and dinners, Christmas decorations and Works St. Kitts, where you can watch jewellery, boxes, the sale of these helps sup- picture frames being made and decorated. Proceeds from set up by the current own- port Children’s Educational Fund St. Kitts, a foundation needs an education. ers of the property to help give students with special told us about Palm Court Gardens, just a short walk past the war memorial at the west of the anchorage. The gardens have a slightly Italian feel; a crazy-paving and manicured lawns and flowerbeds filled with palms path of grey stone leads through Plants with broad sword-shaped leaves of varie- splashes of vivid red bougainvillea. purple filled terracotta pots. There are plenty of curvedgated green and cream or dark the to sit on and admire the statues dotted around wooden seats and stone benches well of Leda and the Swan and Michelangelo’s David as garden, which include copies frog playing the violin sits in the shade of a mango tree;as more quirky ones. A metal in his hand, legs dangling, while a pair of scaly fish spouta boy gazes at a frog held aloft of girl lounges by the pool contemplating a glass a stream of water; a larger-than-life blue water in the infinity poolchampagne. The view behind her is spectacular. Ice fluffy white tradewind cloudsdeepens to Caribbean blue sea, with paler blue sky and of the south of St. Kitts inabove, separated from the sea by the lumpy green outline behind. I wanted to give upthe distance and the craggy grey central mountain of Nevis Royal Bank of Canada, whocruising and live there! How I envied the managers of the postings.were once housed in that property during their three-year Earthly Delights several anchored outside. The anchorage is open to the south, but although the wind is open to the south, but although outside. The anchorage several anchored a slight swell, was so little of it and only we were lucky that there was east-southeast ashore from the Kevin was able to put me we moved to the anchorage so that when corner of the dinghy in the beach. A small black sand that it’s not local told us often the usually like that: crashing onto swell comes the road. The layer of black sand on the pavement con- firmed the truth of this. — MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 sailors wereusedtoshorteningthisname“Kitt”andthenicknamestuck. formal EuropeannameoftheislandisSt.Christopher,but18thcenturyEnglish island, meaning“fertileisland”,hencethesuccessofsugarplantations.The people harvestitfortheirownuseandtosell.“Liamuiga”istheCaribname of sugarcane.Althoughcaneisnolongergrowncommercially,itstillgrowswildand Liamuiga’s rainforestedslopestoweredabovethetracksaswepassedthroughfields Martin, St.Barts,StatiaandSabawerevisible.Inland,inthedistanceMount across narrowmetalbridgesspanninggorges.OuttoseatheislandsofNevis,St. ing rumandCocaCola”“Enjoyyourself,it’slaterthanyouthink”. la countryside wepassedthrough,andatriothroughthetrainsinging sugary coconuticeflavouredwithnutmeg,cinnamonandginger. she alsobroughtroundsugarcakes.Aboutthesizeofacookie,theytastedlikevery a hostess,whoservescomplimentarywater,fruitjuiceorrum.Myeyeslitupwhen lower deckisair-conditionedwithdarkenedwindows.Eachofthesixcarriageshas We satontheopentopdeckofcarriagesowecouldtakeplentyphotos; on ourtrip,butallwentwellandwecompletedthe18-milejourneywithoutincident. rich andSt.KittsbecameoneofthemostimportantcoloniesinBritishEmpire. possibly moreso,giventherecentslumpinoilprices).Theplantationownersgrew — Each timetherailwaytrackcrossedaroad,redflagflutteredfromlevelcross- The trainrattledalongtheeastcoastthroughcuttings,embankmentsand . Amongthesongswere“DowninTrinidad….workingforYankeedollar,drink- There wasarunningcommentaryontheisland’shistoryandvillages We wereslightlyperturbedtoseeawelderworkingontheenginebeforewesetoff At theheightofsugarindustry,hadbeenasvaluableoilistoday(or Continued frompreviouspage a capel- at Basseterre Left: PalmCourtGardens—anoasiswithinwalkingdistanceoftheanchorage ter-attack, surprisingtheCaribsbyattackingtheirvillageatnight. attack ontheEuropeans.WarnerorganizedacombinedEnglishandFrenchcoun- of theisland,withstreamsandforests,Frenchflatlandattwoends. disgruntled Amerindians.AnagreementwasdrawnupgivingtheEnglishmiddle together theycouldnotdefendthemselvesagainsttheSpanishandincreasingly sion toestablishacolony,too.BothEuropeansidesrealizedthatunlesstheyworked and, withoutconsultingtheAmerindianchiefTegreman,Warnergavethempermis- established thefirstEnglishcolonyinCaribbean.In1625aFrenchpartyarrived and OldRoadTowntoexplore. the eastandwestcoastsafewdayslaterItookone,stoppingoffatSandyPoint although thedrivergaveusplentyofinformation.However,localbusesrunupboth Vallee downthewestcoastdidn’tstopatanyofhistoricalplacesonroute, Railway Children”. playground tolineupatthefenceandwave;itwaslikeascenefromfilm“The cane, villagers,levelcrossingkeepers.Primaryschoolchildrendashedacrossthe ing barrier.Everyonewavedtothetrainaswepassed;agroupofpeopleharvesting In August1626,Warner’sCaribmistresstoldhimthatTegremanwasplanningan In 1624EnglishmanThomasWarnerlandedatOldRoadBaywith20menand I wasalittledisappointedthatthebusjourneyfromrailwayterminusatLa Exploring St.Kitts’History from plantationsaroundtheislandtoBasseterre Below: TheSt.KittsScenicRailwayoncehauledsugarcane —Continued onnextpage MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 tment stores , sailing toward Basseterre. grocery, depar ty and Dock Attendants. – - Free Wi-fi. Sweet Sensation of the finest bistro, cafes and nightlife in et on site. – Nearby modern A Quiet Anchorage Shitten Bay, next to Bug’s From Basseterre we moved to the unappealing-sounding were much lower than we St. Kitts had turned out to be full of surprises. Prices The ‘Amazing Grace’ Connection The ‘Amazing where there bus north to Sandy Point, Town, I caught another Back in Old Road The author and her husband aboard definitely smitten’ ‘St. Kitts had turned out to be full of surprises… we are Hole. However, this proved to be a lovely isolated anchorage under an uninhabited Hole. However, this proved to be a lovely isolated anchorage for day-trip catama- headland. During the day it is a popular snorkelling destination deserted. The water was rans full of cruise ship passengers but at night it was almost way to and from Nevis) and calm (apart from the wash from passing ferries on their night we had the anchorage to we all slept soundly under a starry sky. The following we wouldn’t be comfortable ourselves. There are some places in the Caribbean where we felt completely safe. being the only boat in an anchorage at night, but here I hadn’t known about the link had expected, the people were friendly and welcoming, settlement in the Caribbean. to “Amazing Grace” nor that it was the earliest English and I are definitely smitten. It had hardly been “love at first sight”, but now Kevin “the Gibraltar of the Caribbean” for its strategic importance. You can visit the fortress importance. You can of the Caribbean” for its strategic “the Gibraltar on a local bus. from the main road if you’re or it’s a three-mile walk on guided tours, Fortress would from Brimstone Hill church where soldiers is an old whitewashed where is “The Amazing Grace Experience”, Just outside the village have worshipped. wrote the words a reformed slave trader who the story of John Newton, you can learn New Years’ Day of his sermons given on hymn to illustrate one of this well-known landed their this is where the slave ships with Sandy Point is that 1773. His link human cargoes. Marina New Facility. Docks. - Hot and - Teak Cold running showers. professional - New in quality Securi washer / 7 / 365 and dryers. – 24 malls. and High percentageHigh of bi lingual staff. – Adjacent to the local beach and walking distance to the Historic Santa City Center Marta, home of Mark Mini – region. entire the NORTH 74° 13´04.91” WEST 24 Phone: + 57 5 4363601 + 57 5 Phone: COLOMBIA - marinasantamarta.com/enwww.igy- [email protected] Coordinates 11° 14´ 34.45” VHF Channel 16, VHF Channel 72 Continued from previous page Continued from Looking north from the viewing platform, in the distance I could see a flat-toppedLooking north from the viewing platform, in the distance From the Rainforest Bar, a wooden terrace looks out over the tops of the rainforest From the Rainforest Bar, a wooden terrace looks out over Tucked away in one corner of the gardens is an ancient grey stone bell tower. Its Tucked away in one corner of the gardens is an ancient Today only the stone foundations of Romney Manor remain. Pretty yellow of Romney Manor remain. Pretty yellow Today only the stone foundations Caribelle Batik is set in beautiful tropical gardens in the grounds of what was once tropical gardens in the grounds of what was once Caribelle Batik is set in beautiful Discovering Romney Manor I is lined with ancient wood-shingled buildings. As Old Road Town’s main street The earliest European settlers grew tobacco, indigo, ginger and cotton, but by 1626 indigo, ginger and cotton, settlers grew tobacco, The earliest European An estimated 2,000 Caribs were massacred, while the Europeans sustained few while the Europeans 2,000 Caribs were massacred, An estimated bluff and the outline of Brimstone Hill Fortress, built by the English and nicknamedbluff and the outline of Brimstone Hill Fortress, built trees and the ruined tower of a sugar mill. Amazingly, these trees have grown up trees and the ruined tower of a sugar mill. Amazingly, platform in the same spot since the 1930s. Previously — since the 1600s — a viewing their workers were doing in enabled the plantation owners to keep an eye on what a sudden rustling in the tree- the estate yard below. While I stood there, there was hidden amongst the foliage. tops and a couple of green monkeys appeared, almost as pets, nowadays they are Originally brought to the island by plantation owners have a habit of picking man- regarded by some locals as something of a pest, as they goes but only taking one bite before discarding them. single bell was used to regulate the slaves’ day on the plantation, signalling the start single bell was used to regulate the slaves’ day on the a symbol of the hard times of and end of the working day and the time to sleep. As after Emancipation, but slavery, all the other bell towers on St. Kitts were destroyed so this one was spared. Lord Romney was regarded as a benevolent slave owner Caribbean-style wooden buildings housing the batik factory and gift shop have been housing the batik factory and gift shop have been Caribbean-style wooden buildings was It’s a popular stop for cruise ship passengers, so I built over the top of them. or to watch the explanation surprised to find there was no entry fee for the grounds shop that I found it impos- of how batik is made. There was so much choice in the empty-handed. sible to choose just one thing to buy and came away Romney Manor. The Carib leader Tegreman’s settlement was here originally, but fol- leader Tegreman’s settlement was here originally, but Romney Manor. The Carib it was claimed by Sam Jefferson, great-great-great lowing the massacre of 1626 of Thomas Jefferson. Sam is buried in the churchyard grandfather of US president the at Middle Island village, as is Thomas Warner. In the oldest church on St. Kitts, sold part of his estate to the Earl of Romney. mid-17th century Jefferson strolled along the dusty road waiting for a bus back to Basseterre, I passed a traffic waiting for a bus back to Basseterre, I passed a traffic strolled along the dusty road ship passengers waiting to overtake a parked truck. jam of minibuses full of cruise buses leaned over and through the open passenger The lady driver of one of the for Caribelle Batik. When I said I wasn’t, she said, window asked me if I was looking side Look — it’s just up that road there”. The narrow “You should go, it’s very good. the dilapidated houses that were even more ancient than street climbed uphill, past then led under a disused sugar cane railway bridge sup- ones on the main street. It the with glimpses of clear blue sky visible between ported by sturdy stone pillars, overgrown tracks overhead. all this was being replaced by sugar cane and slaves were brought from Africa to and slaves were brought replaced by sugar cane all this was being the Amerindians by the Spanish and As the threat of attack work the plantations. In 1666 war St. Kitts for themselves. the French and English wanted receded, both awarded the when the Treaty of Utrecht between then and 1713, broke out and times. St. Kitts changed hands seven to the English, whole island definitively losses. According to local legend the river at Stone Point ran red with Carib blood for at Stone Point ran red with to local legend the river losses. According was re-named Bloody Point. which is why the area days afterwards, — MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 once fortifiedfordefenseoftheharbor,werehighlightsaSt.Thomasvisit Below: Frenchtown,withitsmuseum,andHasselIsland(right), which means“good”inThai Noêl, andtheirthenbabydaughter,MariaDee,aboard Above: Above: HoneymoonBay(a.k.a.DruifBay)onWaterIslandisworthsometime. by Ships Joao Just Cruise Gomes More Than Thomas: St. Insets:Samplingsno-conesin Dee atsea.Theauthor’swife,Kumploy,withtheirFrenchbulldog, Dee — Hook andCrownBay. to otherplacesintheisland,especiallyRed buses (thenamelocalsgivetothepublicbus which isveryconvenient.Wetooksafari ing advantageofthepublictransportsystem, harbor alsogaveusfullaccesstothecity,tak- berthing theboatthere.Ourlocationin IGY YachtHavenGrandmarinawithoutever we hadtheopportunitytogetknow Harbor justoffthecityofCharlotteAmalie, returned andstayedthreemonthsmore. British VirginIslandsandSt.Maarten,we month andthen,afterabriefvisittothe occasions. Thefirsttimewestayedforone leged tovisitSt.Thomasontwodifferent Caribbean sinceApril2014,andwereprivi- Gulfstar 45Hirsch.We’vebeencruisingthe old Frenchbulldogaboard with ourtwo-year-olddaughterandfive-year- a majorCaribbeancruiseshipport. Having stayedanchoredinSt.Thomas We areaPortuguese/Thaicouplesailing A Pacific inJune.FollowtheGomesfamily’sadventuresatwww.sailingdee.com passenger does! visiting inordertogetsomeinsightintotheFrenchpresenceonthisisland. there areasmallmarina,restaurantsandlotsofFrenchculture,plusmuseum worth activities andevents,theycelebrateannuallytheFrenchNationalDay.Inthis French corner nial timesofSt.Thomasthattheresidentsinsistonnotlettingdisappear.Among severalother able throughoutthecity. can beseenthroughtripsarrangedlocally.Contactsfoundinalltouristbrochures avail- throw away! tion andcouldberepaired.Afterall,eventhesedays,noteverythingthatisoldreadyto wouldn’t benecessarybecausethematerialofoursails,althoughold,wasstillingoodcondi- had inmindmakinganewsail,buttheoldandexperiencedhandsofManfredtoldusthat he willbedoingeverythingtohaveoursailsrepairedintimeforusheadsouth.Initiallywe in St.Thomastheearly1960s,receiveduswithasmileonhisfaceandquicklytoldthat prised bywhatwefoundandthequalityofservice.Manfred,now81yearsold,whoarrived the adviceofafriendwhoknewweneededtorepairtwosailsandcamebackcompletelysur- keeps givinglifetooldsailsandmakingnewonesthatlastalifetime.Wewenttherefollowing canvas fromoldsails,thisGermansailmaker,whofledthehardshipsinEuropeasachild, the Caribbean,ManfredDittrich.Inabuildingthatonlyhaswallsandroofmadeofsalvaged from CrownBay.HasselIslandistheplacewhereyoucanfindoneofoldestsailmakersin quality offoodandservice. We recommendatriptotheItalianrestaurantVirgillio’s.Notexactlycheap,butworthitfor This is Don’t missavisittoSt.Thomas.We’regladwecouldspendmoretimeherethan a cruiseship On yourwaybackfromHasselIslandmakesuretovisitFrenchtown,alegacy thecolo- On HasselIslandtherearealsotracesofotherhistoricaltimesworthchecking out andthat What reallycannotbemissedisavisittotheislandthatseparatesCharlotteAmalie’sharbor Charlotte Amalie, its capital and Charlotte Amalie,itscapitaland be completewithoutastopin Virgin Islands,byboatwillnever visit toSt.Thomas,UnitedStates Dee’s second seasonintheCaribbeanandshewillbeheadingtoPanama ‘regular’ and‘local’flavors,CharlotteAmalie’shistoricshoppingarea Dee, our1985 they allcloseveryearly. attractive prices.Theonlydrawbackisthat area wefoundrestaurantsandbarswith harbor. Inthebackstreetsnearshopping try tovisitondayswithoutcruiseshipsinthe places essentiallydedicatedtotouristsand affordable ifyouknowwheretolook.Avoid present, andalldutyfree.Thepricesare ping areawhereallthebigglobalbrandsare has beenrestoredandconvertedintoashop- to offerothervisitors.Theentireoldtown ists fromthecruiseships,whichalsohasalot fun exploringtheareadedicatedtotour- and outofthemoretraditionalroutes. we mentiononlythese,whicharelessknown and breathtakingviews. to exploreWaterIsland,famousforitsturtles cially worthsometime,asitistheidealplace few daysorweeks.HoneymoonBayisespe- strong windsblowbutareworthavisitfor these anchoragesarepoorlyprotectedwhen planes landingnearbyattheairport.Both can enjoythewhitesandandseeair- University oftheVirginIslands),whereone the universitybeach(it’scloseto eral days,andtoBrewer’sBay,alsoknownas beautiful beach,whereweanchoredforsev- In thecityofCharlotteAmalieitself,wehad There aremorebeachesontheisland,but We alsosailedtoHoneymoonBayandits MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 . Compass As we got closer to the passage, Haiti and Cuba grew tall from the ocean floor. As we got closer to the passage, Haiti and Cuba grew tall from the ocean floor. As the night fell upon us, so did the moon lighting up our path. Bright night with We motored a bit, but sailed most of the way to the end of the passage, although Our nine-day stay in Haiti was one of the most incredible experiences we have ever Beautiful people, beautiful spot! We’ll tell you more about that in next month’s We were underway early the next morning heading to Great Inagua. It was an next morning heading to Great Inagua. It was an We were underway early the to on our way south through the Windward Passage We were up with the sun, and Haiti. We raised our sails minutes after leaving the anchorage. We had light steady wind on our port bow, the sea was calm, and we were filled with anticipation. It was a welcome sight, after three months of beautiful but flat Bahamas. At dusk, we had Haiti on our port side and the sun setting behind Cuba on our starboard side. The ocean and the sky were painted with every shade of orange — unreal! I could almost hear Celia Cruz singing with her unequivocal raspy voice, and saying, “Azucar”! calm seas, almost eerie, with hardly any waves or even ripples. There was haze over the mountains and the smell of fires burning filled the air. That smell followed us throughout our time in Haiti. There is a very busy commercial shipping channel in the Windward Passage. Be aware. we were expecting to lose some wind halfway south in the lee of Haiti. Our plan was to reach the southern tip of Haiti, and turn east at night, and take advantage of the lighter easterly winds, thanks to the katabatic effect. As we turned east, we had our last 50-plus nautical miles to go. We stayed only one mile offshore, to get as much protection from the trades as possible. We arrived at Ile-à-Vache, Haiti, by mid-morning. had. It gave us an insight into human perseverance and resilience, and we learned that no matter what, one can always find joy and hope. sell us the freshest lobsters. Our captains worked all day taking care of the boom Our captains worked all day taking care of the boom sell us the freshest lobsters. as a reward, we all had the best lobster dinner ever! vang and the jib furler, and arrived early morning, we topped off fuel, water, pro- uneventful overnight sail. We a of the Bahamas, all in one long hot day. Then we spent visioned, and checked out ever. No surprise there! night in the rolliest anchorage Top to bottom: Great Inagua, where we topped off fuel and water and checked out of the Bahamas Light winds and calm seas in the Windward Passage Fishermen at Windsor Point sold us the main ingredient for the best lobster dinner ever . It was left Clarence boom vang to snap Fidelis, Journey’s SMOOTH SAILING SMOOTH SAILING www.freecruisingguides.com) and another yacht, Journey
IN THE WINDWARD PASSAGE IN THE WINDWARD
, our 42-foot sloop, Captain Jonathan and myself, his loyal first sloop, Captain Jonathan and , our 42-foot ourney from December 2013 leaving our sailing adventure in mate, started City. We sailed the Bahamas, our home was New York Florida, although way Rico, and we made our Republic and Puerto Haiti, the Dominican 2014, we have been sailing as Grenada. Since December as far south
J With the first choice, you leave the Bahamas via Turks & Caicos, to the northern via Turks & Caicos, choice, you leave the Bahamas With the first When we began to plan our route from Florida through the Bahamas and into the through the Bahamas to plan our route from Florida When we began The weather window opened up. We chose Clarence Town as our staging point. We needed a five-day weather win- We chose Clarence Town as Luckily, we were close enough to an anchorage called Windsor Point, where we Pisani Monica by coast of the Dominican Republic, and then down through and across the Mona and then down through and across the Mona coast of the Dominican Republic, the was through the Windward Passage, leaving Passage. The second choice passing between Cuba and Haiti, then heading east Bahamas from Great Inagua, Our research included reading forums and maga- towards the Eastern Caribbean. anyone who had done either passage. One day, we found zine articles, and talking to by Frank Virgintino ( “A Cruising Guide to Haiti” Caribbean, we realized there were two possible choices. The most popular was the choices. The most realized there were two possible Caribbean, we was the Windward Passage. and the more unusual choice Mona Passage, north towards the Virgin Islands. north towards exposed to all but east winds, and the roll is tolerable only under light conditions. dow to make it to Great Inagua, the southernmost island of the Bahamian chain, the southernmost island of the Bahamian chain, dow to make it to Great Inagua, The Passage, an almost 400-nautical-mile trip. then down through the Windward is to be a quick one. The anchorage at Mathew Town stop at Great Inagua had all we needed to solidify our route choice. We opted for the less traveled road, the route choice. We opted for the less traveled road, all we needed to solidify our Windward Passage. dropped our anchors in the dark, to deal with the problems the following morning. Well, we woke up to a beautiful clear-water anchorage, and two fishermen trying to Town bound for Great Inagua on an overnight sail. The wind was manageable but the seas were quite rough, with waves from every direction. Towards the end of the afternoon, the constant banging on the waves caused off the boom, crashing onto the deck and cracking the salon hatch. As if that wasn’t enough, our jib furler jammed, and would not unfurl. Great start! MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 ROLLER HEADSAILS REEFING YOUR SEAWISE WITHDONSTREET Antigua itisagainhardtowindward. the same,andoftenfromDeshaies,GuadeloupetoEnglishHarbour, the wind.FromnorthwestcornerofSt.VincenttoLuciais Grenada tothesouthwestpointofCarriacouismostoftenhardon west coastofGrenada,andthesailfromnorthwesttip their waytojumping-offpointsfortheUSEastCoastorEurope. through theEasternCaribbeanasmanywillbedoingthismonthon sometimes itcan’tbeavoided,especiallywhenheadingnorth becomes worseyet:thecenterofeffort hasgoneskyhighandfar what youdonotwant. have risen,raisingthecenterofeffortand movingitforward—just been madebythesailmakeritthenbegins tobag.Thefootandclew second stageisonlyso-soasnomatter whatarrangementshave turn baggyafterthefirstreef. small stages. but asahigh-cutjibisreefedtheleadonlymovedforwardin affects theheelingangle. effort notonlymovesforwardbutalsoupdrastically,which ter ofeffortmovesforwardbutdoesnotmoveuptoomuch. have toreeftheheadsailisanexerciseinfrustration! the reefedheadsailwhenconditionsaresuchthatyoureally in benignconditions.Tryingtoadjustandfindthecorrectleadfor with findingthecorrectpositionforreefedheadsail’ssheetlead erly movedforwardand,insomecases,alsoinboard.Experiment which whenreefedbecomesauselessbagunlesstheleadisprop- cut jibisnotascriticalanimproperleadonalow-cutgenoa, moved forwardtothecorrectposition.Animproperleadonahigh- exhilarating sail. However, ifproperlyreefed,theycouldbeenjoyinganefficientand motoring towindwardwhileheadingnorthuptheislandchain. yankee, furlyankeeandproceedunderdouble-reefedmainstaysail sequence was:firstreefmain,secondyankee, (marked byblackdot)movedforwardandremainedveryhigh.Don’sreefing When Going fromGrenadatoCarriacou,mostsailorsproceedupthe We alldoasmuchpossibletoavoidbeatingwindward,but Reefing toathirdstageiswasteoftime becausethesituation A headsailcanusuallybeeffectivelyreefed toonestage,butthe Even withthecorrectsheetlead,reefed roller-furlingjibsoften Reef theMaininConcertwithJib As agenoaisreefedthesheetleadmovesforwarddrastically; With adoubleheadsailrigandhigh-clewedjib,thecenterof When reefingthegenoa,leadmustgoforwardsothatcen- Roller furlingheadsailscanbereefedeffectivelyifthesheetleadis Get theSheetLeadRight Reefing thesailswhengoingtowindwardisausefultactic. All toooftenweseesailboatsmotor-sailingor,worse,miserably Iolaire’s high-cut yankeewaspartiallyrolledup,thecenterofeffort and seehisbooks will reefallthewaydowntoastormjib, gofindanothersailmaker! lead ismovedforwardand,ifnecessary, inboard. it isreefedtothefirststripe,and secondstripeifthesheet is adrumsystemyouhavenochoice. sail clockwise;ifonporttack,rollitupcounter-clockwise. on theleewardsideoffoil.Whenstarboardtack,rollup will produceamuchflatterheadsailthanifitisreefedrollingup lever. Iftheheadsailisalwaysrolleduptowindwardwhenreefingit about theinandoutlever,ratherconsideritasaportstarboard to 12knots,makingitmucheasierrolluptheheadsail. boat speedofsevenoreightknotsthewindacrossdeckisdown wind acrossthedeckis26knots,butswingdownwindandwitha Beating towindwardin20knotswithsixofboatspeed,the diminished andtheheadsailislargelyblanketedbymain. windward, aswhensailingdownwindtherelativewindhasbeen done sailingdownwindratherthanclosereachingorbeatingto downwind, andthenrolluporreeftheheadsail.Itismoreeasily ward performance. be movednotonlyforwardbutalsoinboard. in padeyetowhichasnatchblockcanbeattached,sothelead set astaysail(thesubjectoffuturearticle).Allsingleheadsail G2, theboatshouldtakealmostanything. double reefthemain.Withdouble-reefedmainandgenoareefedtoa to thethirdstage—aG3,whenitwillbecomeuselessbag boats willtakeagoodhatfulofwind.So,insteadreefingtheheadsail amount ofwind.Then,underreefedmainandgenoatoaG2the headsail. Underreefedmainandfullgenoamostboatswillstandafair forward, andthesailsetslikeatoyballoon.
For more seamanship tips visit Don’s website, www.street-iolaire.com, For moreseamanshiptipsvisitDon’swebsite, www.street-iolaire.com, If asailmakersayshecanmakeyou genoa orhighcutjibthat A rollerfurling,reefingheadsailwill beaneffectivesailwhen Summary If youhaveanendless-linerollerreefingsystem,dotheabove;ifit If yourheadsailrollerreefingsystemiselectricorhydraulic,forget Can YouRolltoWindward? When reefingorfurlingroller-reefingheadsails,bearoff,rundead Run OfftoReef Sheeting outsidetheten-degreelinewillnotimproveyourwind- If itblowsmore,istimetosetuptheremovablestaysailstayand What todo?Onmostboats,you’llreefthemainbeforeyou (ALL) JEREMY MCGEARY JEREMY (ALL) is outsidethisline,it’stimetoinstallaremovablescrew- cap. If,whenreefedtothefirstorsecondstripe,lead inches outfromthecenterline.Runthislineafttorail back tenfeetfromthestaysailwillbeseton,then21 degree line,butwearetalkingofcruisingboats.)Measure set on.(Hotracingmachineswillsheetinsidetheten- trimmed toaten-degreelinefromthestayheadsailis rough guideforacruisingboat,allheadsailsshouldbe should alsochecktheathwartshipsheetingangle.Asa rolling theheadsailuptofirstandsecondstripe,you the crewcanreadilyconsultit. then postitatthecharttablewherewillnotgetlostand tions onapieceofpaper,havethepaperlaminated,and the sameforsecondreef.Writedownthreeposi- adjust theleadsosailiscorrectlysheeted.Thendo the fullsail,thenreeftofirststripe,checksailand erate weather.Figureoutthecorrectsheetingpositionfor consultation withyoursailmaker. Exactly howfarapartthestripesareshouldbedecidedin tion thesailwillbeatfirstreefandsecondreef. install twostripesparalleltotheluff,showingposi- on arollerfurlingheadsail?Ontheluffofheadsail different subject. and staysailyou’vegotstormconditions,atotally to balancethehelmandkeephelmspersonhappy.) staysail. (Themizzenwasupordownreefedasnecessary great. Wewouldproceedunderdouble-reefedmainand with thecenterofeffortsohigh,heelingeffectwastoo less, asthesailbecameabagandwassofarupinair, to about300squarefeet.Goingthethirdstagewasuse- When reefedtothesecondstripe,sailareawasreduced luff, reducedthesailareafrom350squarefeetto300. the luff,reefingtofirststripe,12inchesbackfrom the yankeetofirststripe.SinceJ1was50feeton double reefedthemain.Aswindincreased,wewouldreef reef theJ1,high-cutyankee.Whenitblewmore,we ered itwasalwaysbesttosinglereefthemainratherthan should havearemovablestaysailstay. boats thathavetheirheadsailrollerreefing/furling Besides checkingandfindingthecorrectpositionsfor Check YourSheetingAngle Once thestripeshavebeeninstalled,gosailinginmod- How doyouknowwherethefirstandsecondreefsare Mark YourReefLocations When itisblowingtoohardfordoublereefedmain On adoubleheadsailriggedboatlike The OceanSailingYacht,VolumesOneand Two Iolaire —Continued onnextpage we discov- . MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 3) Second reef: One reef in mainsail and genoa reefed about 20% 6) Rolled up this far, a reefed genoa will set like a bag. You won’t be able to sail to windward with it and it could well suffer damage. Note that the center of effort is high and far forward 5) Fourth reef: Two reefs in mainsail and genoa reefed about 40% (to the second reef mark on the foot) 2) First reef: One reef in mainsail and full 135% genoa Continued from previous page Continued from — 4) Third reef: Two reefs in mainsail and genoa reefed about 20% 1) Full sail: mainsail and 135% genoa MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 . , and we drove up to the , and we drove AM when the forest “awoke”. After a when the forest Liophis melanotus nesos AM Above: A bright bromeliad blooms in the rainforest We can highly recommend an excursion With his binoculars, Christian showed Have a look at Christian’s website, www. with Christian, who will tell you about the first Welsh, Scots and Lettish settlers light breakfast, which Christian provided, we started walking. Christian knows every single plant by name, and how they are used for medical treatment. Once he stopped, picked up a leaf, held it into a nest of termites, and offered them to us to eat — alive! I really hesitated. He just ate them, so we did too. (Oysters are eaten alive as well, hey?) You have to bite into them; they tasted like carrots. us various birds up in the trees. Of course, he knows where Mrs. Tarantula lives, he talks with the motmot bird and calls the kingfisher couple “Hansi” and “Greti”. At a waterfall we saw a most beautiful snake — its yellow colour was incredibly vivid. In Tobago it is called doctor snake; the official name is (from Latvia) in Tobago, long before the English and French fought about the island. Now the descendants of those set- tlers are long gone, only the names of some towns commemorate them. Christian is a professional photographer, too, and you can get lots of tips for a good photo. He whispered at me: “Switch on your flash, get the telephoto, step toward me — and now you shoot!” Yes, I got “Hansi” sitting on his favorite branch. achorner.com. He takes no more than four people at a time for a rainforest tour. Above left: Our coastal scooter ride offered a view over Englishman’s Bay Left: Local cuisine tempts a visitor at ‘Sunday School’ but harmless doctor snake Right: The strikingly colored Scooter Ride Another day we rented a scooter to drive around. Angelus, as a motorcyclist, had Charming Charlotteville is still the little town in the north of Tobago with its Compared with many other islands in the Caribbean, Tobago is still very calm with Rainforest Excursion Christian with a guide named booked a tour into the rainforest One day we lots of fun with all the serpentine roads along the coast. We drove inland on small roads, some not accessible by car. Driving around we realized how big the island is. Taking the road clockwise via Plymouth is recommended because driving on the left side means that you are always on the seaward side, and there is much less traffic. On the small road from Bloody Bay up to Charlotteville through the rainforest we found the scenery most spectacular, with numerous clear streams running down through bamboo to the roadside. friendly people. Now there are rotis and other goodies available. The gas station has fuel again. The fishermen bring nice fish every day to sell. During winter season, Man of War Bay seems to be one of the calmer anchorages on the island. Good snor- keling and hiking. no crowded anchorages. If you don’t want it hectic, visit this Tobago. Achorner. We’ve been in rainforests a “few thousand” times. But the hike with this thousand” times. But the been in rainforests a “few Achorner. We’ve the history of knowledge — not only about for us, outstanding. His fellow was, even the world — is plants and animals around Tobago, but about all the Trinidad and Bay at 4:20 picked us up in Store extensive. Christian north, reaching the entrance of the trail at 6:00 the entrance of the trail north, reaching Below: Our rainforest guide called a kingfisher couple ‘Hansi’ and ‘Greti’. This is the female Left: Charming Charlotteville in the north of Tobago the village PM , when the tourists are AM by Angelika Grüner
On Sundays there is “Sunday School” in Buccoo. At about 8:00 Buccoo Angelus and I like kitesurfing at Pigeon Point in the Buccoo Reef Lagoon. There is a new shop in Store Bay that is worth mentioning: an agency for Budget The touristy village of Store Bay has developed in recent years, with a casino and The touristy village of Store Bay has developed in recent For checking in into Tobago all crewmembers have to be present at Immigration For checking in into Tobago all crewmembers have to The anchorage in Store Bay is sometimes pretty rolly, and is still without a dinghy The anchorage in Store Bay is sometimes pretty rolly, and Store Bay while the northern part The southwest part of Tobago is only low land, no forest, Every year Tobago is on our list to visit — with all its positives and negatives. — with all its positives and is on our list to visit Every year Tobago the weath- is done, my son and I watch maintenance in Trinidad After all the boat
Always on Our List on Our Always Tobago — Tobago awakes. There are a few food stalls and music. After 1:00 Unfortunately, some jet skis are now based on the beach where the windsurfers and kitesurfers practice, despite the Tobago House of Assembly promising to enforce a ban on the use of jet skis in Store Bay and Buccoo at least four years ago. The operators on their 140-horsepower water-scooters seem to be their own best custom- ers, and chase at full speed among all those learners. We witnessed an accident when a jet ski drove at full speed into a kiter just three metres off the beach. The kiter was towed under water, the jet ski driver became tangled in the 25-metre long kite lines, the kite crashed into the water, and the driver finally managed to stop — with his vehicle ruining the kite. The kiter luckily was not drowned and the jet ski driver was lucky not to have his head cut off, only having plenty of deep cuts in his arms and face from the lines. Only five minutes later, other jet skis ran again at full speed among the windsurfers and kitesurfers, splashing water onto them with their wakes and having fun when people fell off their boards. No lesson learnt! Marine! You find it on the road to Pigeon Point, just opposite the Conrado Hotel. Nicole operates the tiny shop, and on Mondays she gets any items ordered from the Budget Marine Catalogue via the branch in Trinidad. You just have to order by Friday, lunchtime at the latest. All items are at the same price as listed in the cata- log, no additional costs, good service, nice person to talk to. If Nicole is not in her shop, phone her on (868) 367-1242. lots of pricy restaurants. There are rentals for bicycles, scooters, and cars. The tiny “supermarket” run by Jimmy still exists, plus more small shops. A bigger supermar- ket is Penny Saver, four kilometres (about two and a half miles) up the main road. and Customs, even if coming from Trinidad. If you intend on sailing up to and Customs, even if coming from Trinidad. If you pick up your documents, Charlotteville then you have to check out of Scarborough, Anchoring in the and deliver them to Immigration and Customs in Charlotteville. receive written permission bays on the way to Charlotteville is only possible if you from the authorities in advance. dock. Dinghies have to be dragged onto the beach and up to the fence. Walking dock. Dinghies have to be dragged onto the beach and road where it is possible to along the sewage-smelly walkway we come to the main Scarborough, TT$6 (95¢) to stop almost any car. A taxi is TT$8 (about US$1.25) to government bus. Penny Saver. It is hardly worth waiting for the TT$2 (30¢) is covered with thick rainforest. The international airport is in the south, at Store is covered with thick rainforest. The international airport or depart — the anchorage Bay. That is very convenient when visiting guests arrive is within walking distance. er till wind and sea calm down, and then we motor with the countercurrent close we motor with the countercurrent sea calm down, and then er till wind and we cross over we reach the northeast end, coast of Trinidad. When along the north because the motor on this crossing as well, of the time we have to to Tobago. Most northern part of When we head for the and sweeps us to the west. current is strong up at Store Bay. Tobago we end gone to bed, the locals come out to have their entertainment till the morning hours. On the Sunday after Carnival was the famous goat race, a funny occurrence. The goats are on leashes, and the “jockeys” have to run with their goats. One lost his trousers — and the goat leash. You can imagine the laughter! MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 in adeeperanchorage.Wegotreadyfor asteephike. lee sidein60feetofpurplewater.Wehave neverbeen famous scubadivingdestination. underwater magmatowersmakingtheisland aworld- extraordinary seaworldinthesurrounding reefsand small picturesquevillages,mind-blowing history,and tropical vegetation,awebofhikingtrails, acoupleof Caribbean forhernaturalbeauty,abundance ofgreen Saba isalsoknownas“TheUnspoiled Queen” ofthe largely ofthepotentiallyactivevolcano,MountScenery. “special municipality”oftheNetherlands,consisting to Saba.It’sasmallislandsouthofSt.Maarten, memories ofterrifyingtimes. mountaintops loomingabovetheocean,roaringwith moments foruswerethewelookedupat ows ofslumberinggiants.Somethemostthrilling tered bayswithdarkrockyshores,calmintheshad- — havevisitedinthepastyearbeendeepshel- aboard our38-footLeopardcatamaran, — me,myhusbandIvo,andour11-year-oldMaya, most excitingtimeofyourlife. time, sailingintheEasternCaribbeanmightbe volcanoes formedoverthreemillionyearsago. the south—atotalof17dormantremnantsancient the VirginIslandsinnorthtoTrinidad&Tobago tonic platesformedtheLesserAntillesVolcanicArc,from sticking upoutofthesea.MovementEarth’stec- Ivo, MayaandMira Below: Thecruisingvolcanohunters: of itsvolcanicorigins Above: ThecraggycoastofSabaspeaks We grabbedoneofninemooringballson thewestern After afewunforgettableweeksintheBVIwesailed Saba’s MountScenery Some ofthemostdramatic-lookinganchorageswe If youareacruiserandvolcanoloveratthesame Many oftheCaribbeanislandsare,infact,volcanoes I down attheinsideofavolcano. poisonous breathofamonster.Youarelooking sulfuric gaseshissingfromundergroundlikethe magine standingontheedgeofadarkcrater, SAILING AMONGTHEVOLCANOES Top right:GazingattheSoufriereHills volcano fromMontserrat’sobservatory
Fata Morgana by MiraNencheva
miles tothesoutheast,St.KittsandStMaarten. a cleardayyouwillalsospotSintEustatiusonlyfew the east,andbeyond,sparklingCaribbeanSea.on red roofsoftheWindwardside,likeafairytalevillageto rarely morethanthree—thereis side withitstinyboatsholdingontotheirmoorings, inspiring viewfromthetop:anchorageonwest blowing itawayforabriefminuterevealinganawe- Russian hat,butsometimesthewindsucceedsin mit isalwaysenvelopedbyathickmoistcloud,like evidence ofexplosionsandpyroclasticflows.Thesum- last eruptionwasaroundtheyear1640andthereis with alavadomeanditmighteruptatanytime.The helps toprotectthenatureandcultureofisland. organization, SabaConservationFoundation,which well maintainedbyanon-governmentalconservation near thewindwardside,hasmanystonestepsandis est, referredtoas“TheElfinForest”.Thetrailbegins and ahalftwohoursinpristinetropicalrainfor- steep butpleasantandtakessomewherebetweenone Kingdom oftheNetherlands.Thehiketotopis height of2,910feet—thehighestpointwithin vertically outoftheseaandreachesastaggering visitors arenotpermittedentryintoExclusion ZoneV considered dangerousandisforbidden. trails ontheislandbutaccesstoSoufrière Hillsis tial forpyroclasticactivity.Thereareafew greathiking is declaredan“exclusionzone”because ofthepoten- capital ofPlymouth,coveredinathicklayer ofashes, coast oftheisland,awayfromvolcano. Theold and mainportarebeingdevelopedon the northwest recent eruptiononFebruary11th2010. Anewcapital Two-thirds oftheisland’spopulationfled. Georgian-era capital,buryingitin12metersofmud. and rocksontopofthecity,destroyingMontserrat’s up andstartedcoughing,sneezingbarfingashes until onemorning,onJuly18th1995,thevolcanowoke for centurieslikemostvolcanoesdoofthetime, under theSoufriereHillsvolcano,whichwassleeping Many peoplebuilttheirhousesandlivedthere,right the fishforacarridetocityburiedinashes. agreed, inthespiritofbarter,toexchangerest next day,wemetalocalguynamedTerrance,who and therewasstillaboutfourpoundsoffilletsleft.The for lunchandwehadbreadedfishsticksdinner left ofthefish.Whichwasplenty.Wepreparedsushi its massivebody,thushelpingustoreelinwhatwas water, untilasharkcametotherescueandatehalfof fish —sobigthatwegaveuppullingitoutofthe Montserrat. Onthewaytherewehookedahugeking- about 1,800yearsago. low craterlake.Thelasteruptionfromthevolcanowas 0.6-mile-wide summitcrater,whichcontainsashal- Lesser Antillesarchipelago.Thepeakistoppedbya Kitts &Nevis,aswelloneofthetallestpeaksin point ofthesmallindependentislandnationSt. 3,793-foot dormantstrato-volcanoandthehighest Mount Liamuiga(orMisery)ofSt.Kitts,a which isalsoapopulartouristattraction. with adormantvolcano—theQuill,meaning“crater”, Mount Sceneryisapotentiallyactivestrato-volcano The smallislandwithitspeak,MountScenery,rises The entireareaisseparatedintoexclusion zonesand Today, thevolcanicactivitycontinues,withmost The citywasthecapitalofMontserrat,Plymouth. After St.Kitts&NeviswesailedtoLittleBayin Montserrat’s SoufriereHillsVolcano And fartherdownisland,southeastofStatia,rises Sint Eustatius,orStatia,isanotherDutchisland Fata Morgana ! —the
Grande Soufrièrewentbacktoitsslumber. magnitude —yetaneruptionnever happened. La seismologists measuredsignsofaneruption ofsuch magically, nothingelsehappened.Never beforehad furic steamgushedfromthemountain craters,yet, quakes wererecorded,densecloudsofpoisonous sul- who hadrefusedtoleave. tain onlytodrowninthesea,andahomeless person dogs, abayfullofdeadsnakeswhohadfledthemoun- found aneerieghosttownfullofstarvingabandoned capital. ThatfilmmakerwasWernerHerzog,who Guadeloupe andfilmthefinalmomentsofitsdeserted a catastropheofgreatmagnitudewasinevitable. mountain, wereevacuated—for,thescientistsagreed, situated rightatthefootofwesternslope island’s capitalandbiggestcity,Basse-Terre,whichis sion thesizeofsixatomicbombs.Allinhabitants Grande Soufrièrewoulderuptwithanexpectedexplo- SEISMIC RESEARCH CENTRE, UNIVERSITY OF THE WEST INDIES with itsincrediblestory. tinations intheCaribbean,butitfirstcapturedus Guadeloupe. Itbecameoneofourfavoritehikingdes- our slowsailsouthwasLaGrandeSoufrièrein grey ash. empty ruinsofhouses,foreverdeserted,coveredin From thetop,viewissurreal,apocalyptic…Sad overlooking theSoufriereHillsanddisasterarea. in Venezuela,becausetheashesflysofaraway. starts spittingashestheyclosetheairportsallway many volcanostories.Hesaidthatwhenthe doned neighborhoodsnotfarfromPlymouth,tellingus 496-1291). Hetookustothehillsofonefewaban- tours forgroupsofuptosevenpeople(cellphone[664] mechanic andaprofessionalcook,isavailabletogive about US$20to40(orapieceoffreshfish). island andExclusionZoneCcanbearrangedfor and PlymouthfromGaribaldiHill.Ataxitourofthe may enterZoneCbycaronlyandobservethevolcano sion grantedbythelocalpolice(freeofcharge),people (which includesPlymouth).Butwithspecialpermis- There weretremorsandshockwaves,1,257 earth- A filmmakerandhiscrewwereallowedtofly In Augustof1976therewereindicationsthatLa Another potentiallydangerousvolcanowevisitedon Guadeloupe’s GrandeSoufrière We alsovisitedtheMontserratVolcanoObservatory Terrance McPhoy,whoisnotataxidriverbutcar —Continued onnextpage MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29
Fata Morgana, Agents for: Long 62º 50.1’ W Lat 17º 20.3’ N W Lat 17º 20.3’ Long 62º 50.1’ Haul & Storage Haul and Launch $ 11 / ft. Haul and Launch $ 11 - FREE high speed Wifi. But most of the time it was foggy and the landscape But most of the time it was There are a few craters on top of the mountain, some We reached the summit, the highest point in Next month: Volcanoes in Dominica, Martinique and Mira Nencheva, her husband Ivo and their daughter looked spooky, with giant rocks sticking out of the looked spooky, with giant the result of some terrific ground vertically, like teeth, ago. The path became Jurassic event millions of years difficult. We passed by steep and narrow, at places on the slopes of the moun- deep shafts, ancient cracks and earthquakes. tain, born of seismic tremors steaming and producing deep industrial noise, which sounded to me like suffering, and a maze of small paths among jagged boulders. The smell of sulfur near the craters is so strong it burns the eyes and sticks to the throat. Guadeloupe. We were standing on top of a volcano. St. Lucia. Maya are sailing around the world, living full-time aboard their 38-foot Leopard catamaran, since July 2013. Their journey is documented on a travel-adventure blog www.thelifenomadik.com and in their Facebook page Facebook/TheLifeNomadik, where Mira is publishing stories and pictures. mysterious. At that height, it was also a lot colder. The that height, it was also a mysterious. At vegetation, was out of this world: low nature there adorned with moss over huge boulders damp orange when the flowers. From the slopes, small purple the sea and we could see Basse-Terre, clouds cleared, in the distance. Les Iles des Saintes . Beat the Hurricane season rush. 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We Payments – Cash (EC or US$) Visa, Mastercard, Discover & travellers checks (must sign in front of fenced property with CCTV. completely 24 hr manned Security, us with ID) and electricity available. Water Special - 5% discount for full payment. take a panoramic look at Iles des Saintes Right: While hiking to La Grande Soufriere, The climb to the top is about two hours, starting the top is about two hours, The climb to saw the vol- were out of the forest we As soon as we Above: Peering into a simmering volcano in Guadeloupe — one of our favorite hiking destinations with an easy walk in the rainforest on almost flat ter- walk in the rainforest on almost with an easy passed by a is paved and shady. We rain. The path water popu- with hot volcanic spring small stone pool just for the Many people come here lar with the locals. don’t go hiking farther. hot springs and us, with a and silent, standing before cano, heavy strange and grey cloud. It was all very mantle of thin . Continued from previous page Continued from The hike starts from a road east of Basse-Terre. Today, boats can anchor just off the capital Basse- can anchor just off the capital Today, boats There are no entry fees and tons of visitors swarm the There are no entry fees and tons of visitors swarm the mountain slopes, especially on sunny cloudless days. We started early in the morning sharing a car from Deshaies with our Australian mates Mel and Caryn of S/V Passages Terre, in the shadow of the sleeping volcano that shadow of the sleeping Terre, in the You can also sleep but didn’t wake up. stirred in its anchorages or taxi from any of the other take the bus walk to the to Basse-Terre and then on the island craters. The and up the mountain to the national park point on the is also the highest top of the volcano 4,813 feet above the sea. island, rising — MAY 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 ous. We’veputtogetherthefollowingtableofgeneralizationstohelpus,andyou,tellthesedistincttribesapart. discovered theadvantagesofthesepassiveenergysystems,anddifferencebetweenacharterboatcruisingyachtisno wind generators,theprobabilitywashighthatboatanchoringonyourbowacharterer.However,charterownershav current events; Children atsternhavewaterfightswiththehose; changes mindandjumpsbackinforanotherlittleswimbeforehosingdownagain. — whiteasanangel‘sfrock; cover-ups. Theyoftenwearwhite—starkwhiterthansailclothorgelcoat sign onthebeachorfrontstreet; islands andat7:00inFrenchislands; every otherday; itself through; reverse. Switchesfromforwardtoreversewithaquickflipofthewrist; seasickness, allsailscomedownandtheymotor,evendownwind. only hereafewshortdays”; selfies tosocialmedia; swinging fromtheirlastclothespin,wickingupthedecksaltday’ssail;
Rodney Bay,St.Lucia It usedtobethatthedifferencebetweenacharterboatandcruisingyachtwasobviousinitsprofile.Iftherewereneither • Couldbeanyage,buthasanaverageageof40to45; • Gleefullytalkstoorargueswithanyoneaboutrecentsportsscores,politics,and • Crawlsoutofthewaterontoboat’ssternandhosesdownfortenminutes, • Liesinsunwithaslittleonculturallypossible; • Wearsswimsuitsorbestfashionashore,ladiespreferringsundressesbeach • Whenashoreotherthanatsupper,foundinthecrowdedbarunderbiggest • Loadsupdinghyforsupperashore,leavingboatat5:00inEnglish-speaking • Inataxi,passeswalkingcruiser; • Passesabigbagortwoofgarbageandmoneytolocalserviceboat(boatboy), • Usesonelineonamooringbuoy,returningittoothersideofboatsomaysaw • Willtakeamooringifavailable;maynotknowwhatsnubberisatanchor; • Underpower,charterboathasonespeed—maximumwhetherforwardor • Putsallsailsupregardlessofwindstrength.Ifsomebodycomplainsfearor • Getsupeachmorningandraisessailregardlessoftheweather—afterall,“I’m • Newestsmartphoneinhand,regularlysending“suckstobeyoubackhome” • Giantbeachtowelsdryingonthelifelineseveryday;and,sometimes,bedsheets You CanTellaChartererby: YOU CANTELLACRUISER… You cantellacruiser:he’sbeinghelpful—androwing