Jirisan-Gure
1. Hwaeomsa Temple
2. Cheoneunsa Temple
3. Unjoru Hwaeomsa Temple 1. The Building Where the Ritual is Held for Hwaeomsa Temple the Spirit of Jirisan Mountain
As you cross the bridge that leads to Hwaeomsa Temple, on the right side you will see a small house. The people who live in this area believe in a god that watches over Jirisan Mountain. This house is the building where the ritual is offered to the mountain spirit. The ritual is held every year around the time that farmers begin planting their crops, and they have been doing this for more than a thousand years. Around 2,000 years ago, the rulers of the Korean Peninsula chose five sacred mountains as the site for the rituals. The mountain in the capital was at the center, while another mountain was chosen for each of the four cardinal directions. The ritual was held at each of these locations as a prayer for the gods to bring peace to the country and the people. Jirisan Mountain was one of those mountains. While dynasties have changed and the capital is different today, this mountain is still considered a holy site. The mountain also plays a role in the ancient Eastern geomantic system known as feng shui. Practitioners of feng shui look at the geographic features of mountains and rivers to predict people's fortunes and to decide where to build a house or dig a grave. According to this system, the mountain is believed to have risen up out of the ground after absorbing energy that shot south across the peninsula from Baekdusan Mountain. The highest mountain on the Korean Peninsula, Baekdusan Mountain is located in the northern region of present-day North Korea. This is why many generations of Koreans have believed that they must climb Jirisan Mountain at least one time before they die. Hwaeomsa Temple 2. The First Gate to Hwaeomsa Temple
The first gate to Hwaeomsa Temple is called Burimun, and it looks like pillars holding up a huge roof. Hwaeomsa is as huge a temple as Jirisan Mountain is high, and it holds a number of important cultural heritages. The temple was founded in the year 544 by a Buddhist monk from India. Legend has it that he flew here on a winged turtle with the Buddhist scriptures in his hand. The temple was named for the scriptures that the monk brought with him. After that, a number of great monks stayed here, helping the temple to thrive. At one time, it's said that the nation ordered people to pay their taxes directly at this temple. This shows us that the temple had a lot of authority. Hwaeomsa Temple 3. Monument for Byeogam
If you continue on toward the temple after passing through the first gate, on the right you will see a large stone monument on the back of a turtle with the head of a dragon. The panel by the monument tells you that the text here was written in memory of a Buddhist monk who lived at that time. The fact that such a monument could be built at a time when Buddhism was being suppressed in Korea shows us this person must have been greatly revered. The monument was built for a monk named Byeogam. This monk raised an army of monks during the time of the Japanese and Mongolian invasions and led them against the attackers. Later, he also played an important role in rebuilding many of the important temples in Korea that had been destroyed in the war. One interesting fact is that, at the time of the Japanese invasion, he took charge of training the army here at this temple. In addition, at the time of the Mongolian invasion, he led a group of monks to the site of present-day Seoul to repair the defensive walls. When the Mongols invaded again, he led 3,000 soldiers into battle himself even though he was over 60 years old. It was to commemorate such deeds that this memorial was built. Hwaeomsa Temple 4. Temple Guards and Four Guardian Spirits
Let us move on to the temple's second gate. Here you'll find the gatekeeper clay statues that serve as the temple's spiritual guardians. These statues were made under the direction of the monk who appeared on the memorial that we just passed by. Of the two huge clay statues, the guard on the right is said to have the strength of a million elephants. The guard on the left is in a defensive stance. The weapons in their hands are said to be made of unbreakable stone. Let's move on and into the next gate. As you enter the temple's third gateway, you will see the figures of the Four Heavenly Kings. The role of these figures is protecting the temple as well. In their hands are various symbolic items such as an ancient Asian stringed instrument, sword, dragons with a pearl in their mouths and a pagoda. As the story has it, these four had once been gods of ancient India, but they accepted the teaching of Buddha and converted to Buddhism. Since these wooden statues were made in a time when there were many wars, they look more fierce and warlike than those made at other times. Hwaeomsa Temple 5. A Place that Helps Many People
After passing through all of the gates and going up a long staircase, you will find yourself at a building, whose name can be translated as "a place that helps many people." The monks at the temple also hold Buddhist services at this place. You might think of it as an auditorium where monks or laypeople gather for a religious service. Take a look at the thick, rough-hewn logs that are the pillars holding up the building. These show us the aesthetics of traditional Korean architectural, which tries to accept nature as it is. We are told that the builders did their best to ensure that the placement of this building would be in harmony with the bell tower and other buildings in the area.
Hwaeomsa Temple 6. The Building that Houses Buddha
Located directly in front of you is the most important building in the temple, as the statue of Buddha is located there. This structure, which was rebuilt in 1630, is an important cultural heritage. At most temples, the statue of Buddha, the founder of the religion, is located in the very center of the main hall. At this temple, however, a celestial Buddha that is the personification of truth is considered important, and so his statue is placed in the center. Here you can see three sitting Buddhas. In the middle is the Buddha representing truth, on the left is the founder of Buddhism, and on the right is the Buddha representing morality. These three Buddhas are regarded as most important in traditional Korean Buddhism. Hwaeomsa Temple 7. The Former Site of the Stone Scriptures
The original use of this building is to store the portraits of the temple's great monks, but currently it is the repository of 14,000 fragments of Buddhist scriptures made of stone. Buddhist scriptures were engraved on stone so that the teachings of Buddha could be passed on to future generations. The reason that they are in pieces today is that, when the Japanese made war on Korea a long time ago, the building that stored the stone tablets collapsed in a fire, breaking all of them. Even the fragments are still regarded as very valuable and have been designated as a cultural heritage, which is why they are being protected today. These stone scriptures were engraved around 400 years before the famous Tripitaka Koreana wooden scriptures were carved in the 13th century. If they had survived into the present in their original condition, they would probably be highly valued as one of the world's great cultural artifacts. 8. The Building That Houses the God That Hwaeomsa Temple Grants People's Wishes This is the building that houses the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy that grants people's wishes. Even today, when Buddhists pray, they call on the name of this goddess as they pray for their heart's desire. On the outside, it may look very plain, but if you look inside, you can see that the building has the exact structure that is found in buildings at much larger temples. This has led certain scholars to suggest that the building was once used for praying for the prosperity of the royal family. The other building next to this one houses the 16 disciples of the Buddha. In here, we see the Buddha in the middle, surrounded by his two most outstanding disciples and various other followers. Unlike the solemn expressions on the faces of Buddhas in other temples, here you can see a variety of human expressions playing on the faces of the disciples. Hwaeomsa Temple 9. The Biggest Building at Hwaeomsa Temple
You have reached the building at Hwaeomsa Temple that is regarded as the biggest, grandest, and most beautiful. It's currently designated as one of Korea's important culture heritages. Look inside to find the statue of the Buddha and around it figures of various Buddhist gods and saints. Behind the Buddha statue, there are also colorful Buddhist paintings that are drawn with delicate lines and red tones. We are told that, a long time ago, this was the site of a three-story building that contained a statue of the Buddha that was nearly five meters tall. However, that building was burned down at the time of a severe Japanese invasion 400 years ago and was rebuilt in its current form about 100 years after that. The stone lantern in the yard in front of this building is another important cultural heritage. The lantern was made in imitation of an imaginary flower that represents Buddhist ideals. This flower is said to bloom only once every 3,000 years when the king appears who will lead the world into righteousness. With a height of 6.4 meters, this is the largest stone lantern in Korea. Standing in front of the lantern, you can see that it rivals the height of the building itself. This is because the lantern was originally associated with the three-story building that vanished long ago. Hwaeomsa Temple 10. The Pagoda Where the Sarira are Kept
If you turn to the left of the building, you will find a set of stairs leading up the mountain. There are 108 stairs in all, a number that corresponds to the kinds of physical and mental torments that humans must undergo according to Buddhism. If you count the Buddhist prayer beads that monks use, you will find that there are 108 of these as well. As monks go up and down the stairs fingering the prayer beads, they discipline their mind to overcome pain. At the top of the steps, you will reach a three-story stone pagoda. This is the place that stores the sarira, the little stones that came from the body of the Buddha. From below, four stone lions are holding up the pagoda, while on the first floor, a number of Buddhist gods and saints are engraved in the stone. If you look between the pillars of the stone lantern that is facing the stone pagoda, you can see the figure of a kneeling person. This person is the monk who came from India to establish this temple. He is politely holding up a glass of tea toward the pagoda. Hwaeomsa Temple 11. As You Drink a Cup of Green Tea
If you follow the path that starts behind and to the right of Daeungjeon Hall, you will come upon a mountain path that leads to the temple's hermitage. Go past a valley and a grove of bamboo trees to find the place where guests are served tea and, further along up some stairs cut into the rock, the hermitage. As you look inside the hermitage, you will see 1,000 small statues of the Buddha. Take a closer look, and you will realize that the facial expressions and sizes of these statues are all slightly different. Below the roof of the hermitage, you can see the figure of a rabbit on the back of a turtle. In Buddhism, since Buddha was a rabbit in his former life, the animal is viewed as a symbol of dedication and sacrifice. Go back down the stairs and take a look at the building where tea is served. The rough pillars that form the frame of this building were made from quince trees. The builders did their best to preserve these trees in their natural state. This is where guests are served tea. The monks have been making the tea themselves since the temple was first built, and its flavor and scent are so superb that in times past it was even served to the king. There is no charge for the tea, so why not take this chance to experience the delicious flavor and aroma for yourself? Cheoneunsa Temple Cheoneunsa Temple 1. About the Course
Cheoneunsa Temple, situated on the main route to Jirisan Mountain's Nogodan Peak, is one of the three greatest Buddhist temples in Gurye. About 1,200 years ago, a Buddhist monk from India built this temple here, after considering many other mountains in Korea. Since then, it has been one of the most visited temples in the country, and home to many great Buddhist priests. The temple also has a number of cultural relics, including a gilt-bronze miniature shrine. This miniature is about 43 centimeters in height, and it became a nationally-designated treasure in 2008. Historical records show that it was a gift from a Buddhist priest who held the official title of national preceptor in the ancient past. Due to the ravages of both fire and war, the original form and records of the temple have been lost. The structures remaining at the temple today were rebuilt about 240 years ago. As you head toward the main gate of the temple, you will see pagodas in between the pine trees to the right. These pagodas contain sarira, the bead-shaped objects that were found after cremating bodies of Buddha or monks. Cheoneunsa Temple 2. One Pillar Gate
The writing on the hanging board by the main gate of the temple was written by a distinguished Korean calligrapher. It reads Cheoneunsa Temple of Jirisan Mountain. Originally, this temple was called Gamnosa, which literally means a temple of sweet dew, because there was a natural spring nearby. One day, a large snake came out of the water but someone killed it. After the incident, the spring dried up and there were frequent outbreaks of fire at the temple. To prevent any more damage to this temple, a renowned calligrapher wrote a new name Cheoneunsa on a hanging board, which means a temple of the hidden spring. Since the name has been changed there have not been any more fires, so perhaps the new name has had a positive effect.
Cheoneunsa Temple 3. Suhongnu
When you step into the front gate, you'll see a small reservoir and a pavilion just across the bridge over the valley. A rainbow frequently appears over the valley in the summertime and as such, the pavilion is named Suhongnu, meaning a pavilion with a rainbow. The large, stone basin in front of the pavilion is full of clear water, and the inscription on it means a stream of sweet dew. Representing the auspicious energy of the spring that dried up so long ago, the water seems to protect the beauty of the temple from being lost to another fire. Cheoneunsa Temple 4. Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings
After climbing up the long stairway, you will pass the final gate into the temple, and there are statues with frightening expressions at the gate. They are the Four Heavenly Kings, the guardians that repel evil spirits in the Buddhist world. Statues like these can be seen at other Buddhist temples in Korea. Their stances differ slightly in order to repel the evil spirits that may attack from all sides. Each one is holding a symbolic object in its hand to scare the evil spirits that try to enter the temple. If you look at their feet, you will see what are supposed to be evil spirits that have been trampled.
Cheoneunsa Temple 5. Bojeru
When you enter the temple, you will see a building called Bojeru, which means leading all people to the right path. Korean Buddhist temples usually have this building in their precincts and all the important ceremonies take place here. When looking at it from the front it may look like a one-story building, but from the back you will see that it's actually a two-story structure. Also, a special feature of this building is that it has walls and doors, while the same kind of building in other temples normally has an open form without walls and doors. Upon passing this building, you will see a hall enshrining the Buddha and the main yard of this temple. The two buildings standing on both sides of the main yard are living quarters for monks. Cheoneunsa Temple 6. Tree of Enlightenment
To the left of the monks' living quarters, there is a large tree called the Bodhi Tree. It means the tree of enlightenment, and it is believed that Buddha first reached enlightenment under the Bodhi tree. But the name Bodhi does not refer to any specific species of tree, and each country has a different Bodhi tree. Here at this temple, the monks use the berries from this tree for beads to make Buddhist rosaries. Just about every monk wants to have one made of the berries, because they become shiny when rubbed enough. This 200-year-old tree is the oldest at the precincts, and seedlings from this tree are distributed to other large Buddhist temples in Korea.
Cheoneunsa Temple 7. Geungnakbojeon
The Buddha is enshrined in this hall called Geungnakbojeon. If you look at the bronze statue of Buddha, you will see his thumb and middle finger touching to form a circle, the pose in which he would give lectures. Above the head of the statue, there is a hanging scroll of Buddha in this same pose. This painting from 1776 was designated as a cultural heritage in 2002, because it shows the features of Buddhist art during the 18th century. Also, because the names of the figures in the artwork have been recorded, it provides valuable material for Buddhist research. Cheoneunsa Temple 8. Buddhist Art for Outdoor Ceremonial Use
In front of Geungnakbojeon Hall, there are two pairs of stone pillars that were used as supports for setting up hanging scrolls. When religious ceremonies are carried out, a huge painting of Buddha was hung on two long poles that were inserted between each pair of these supports. When many people were gathered at the temple, they couldn't all enter the hall, nor can the statue of Buddha be brought outside. So this method allows Buddha to be seen by the masses. The hanging scroll for outdoor ceremonial use is also designated as a cultural heritage. Usually, Buddhist paintings are of several figures other than Buddha, but this is a large image where Buddha fills the space, and it is said that this painting was designed to help people be comforted during wartime. Cheoneunsa Temple 9. Stone Base for Lighting the Temple
Walking around Geungnakbojeon Hall to the left takes you to several buildings clustered together in the back yard. There is a large stone shaped like a turtle in the middle of the yard. In the past, when there was no electricity, this was used as a place for gathering and kindling pine branches to light up the temple. At one point, removal of the stone was considered for reorganizing the temple, but it was decided to leave if here as a part of the history of the temple. To the front of the stone are the building where disciples of Buddha gathered, the building that enshrines the paintings of Buddha's life story, and the building enshrining the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy who examines the world with her thousand eyes and hands, as well as the building with folk gods enshrined in a Buddhist style. Unjoru Unjoru 1. Omi Village
Omi is a small village nestled between Jirisan Mountain and Seomjingang River. According to feng shui, which is an Oriental system of geomancy, the location of this village is very auspicious. In particular, there are three propitious spots in this village recognized by feng shui experts. Local legends say a Taoist maiden dropped her precious gold ring at the first propitious spot, and a golden tortoise lies buried in the clay at the second spot. Lastly, it is believed that five kinds of rare treasures can be found at the last spot. Also, there is a saying that if you build your house here, you will lead a life of abundance and honor. So, in the past, it used to be a large village since many noble families moved to this area. Unjoru, the grand house of a noble family, was built 200 years ago on the site where the Taoist maiden dropped her gold ring. The building still stands today, with Gokjeonjae, another traditional dwelling located nearby. Shall we take a look around? Unjoru 2. Unjoru _1
The name Unjoru means 'a house hidden like a bird in the clouds', and it is located where the Taoist maiden in a local legend is supposed to have dropped her gold ring. When the house was completed after seven years of a large-scale construction in 1776, the house owner gleefully exclaimed The Heavens must have hidden this piece of land from others for all these years so it can be bestowed upon me! Originally, the name 'Unjoru' referred to its outer quarters where the owner would entertain guests, and is borrowed from a verse written by a famous Chinese poet. The house also serves as a historical site where you can examine the actual Korean architectural style 200 years ago. The pillars of the building numbered over 100 when it was first built, but only two thirds of them remain today. Unjoru 2. Unjoru _2
Arriving in front of Unjoru's main gate, you will see a pond and a circular island in the middle of it. This island represents the three sacred mountains in the Korean Peninsula, including Jirisan Mountain. If you were to visit in the summertime, the pond would be fully covered with lotus leaves. Stepping inside the house, you have to pass through a tall gate. The gate was made deliberately with a roof higher than those of other houses as a display of power and authority. Do you see the bone hanging on the door? Although the bone currently here is from a horse, it's said that originally, the house owner caught a tiger and hung up one of its bones to commemorate the families' devotion to the king. However, the tiger is deemed a holy animal in Korea and it's believed that possessing tiger's bone will grant you a wish. Because of this, people would often secretly touch the bone as they were going past the gate, which is why the tiger bone was swapped for the horse bone that hangs here today. Unjoru 4. Unjoru_3
Upon entering the main gate, you can see a comprehensive plan of the house that shows its structural arrangement. It includes not only the internal parts of the house, but also the river that flows nearby. This plan of the house you are seeing now is a copy of the original version. Going further into the house, you will see the outer quarters which was the accommodation for guests who visited the house. Other buildings lining both sides of the outer quarters are the servant's quarters. Look closely at the wooden floor of the outer quarters, and you will discover some of the incredible beauty of traditional Korean architecture. Unjoru 5. Unjoru_4
The innermost building has a storeroom and kitchen, and it was designed to house women and children. All of the rooms have a separate attic, and this design is unique to the traditional houses of this region. You can see an example of this architectural style in the building on the right side, where there is a small landing protruding out like a terrace. Going through the outer quarters into the kitchen, you will see a round wooden pail, a little smaller than its accompanying square rice chest. If you observe the square cover on the bottom part of the wooden pail, you will see some Chinese characters. These characters mean 'The rice chest is accessible to anyone who needs rice'. The chest was always kept full to the brim with rice, and poor people were welcome to take rice any time they were in need. It reveals the attitudes of Korean nobility in the past, when sharing and hospitality were highly valued. Unjoru 6. Gokjeonjae_1
Gokjeonjae is another traditional Korean house in this village. The most frequently observed part of this house is its outer wall. The stone wall surrounds the whole house like a ring, and it suggests that the house stands on the divine location where the Taoist maiden is supposed to have dropped her ring. However, this house is not as old as Unjoru. It was built in 1929 and has been occupied by a local family since 1940. The scale of the place is large, but thanks to a square design, it also feels comfortable and cozy. You're welcome to stay here at Gokjeonjae, and spending a night in one of Korea's traditional houses would be a great experience for any visitor.
Unjoru 7. Gokjeonjae_2
If you look closely at the outer wall, you will see many bullet marks. This is because the high outer wall was used as a place of shelter for people and their livestock during the Korean War. Another famous feature of this house is its garden. The garden has been featured many times in the Korean media. In particular, the focal point of the garden is the water from the pond flowing gently into the house garden, creating a sense of natural beauty. Turning towards the back yard of the innermost building, there is a bamboo forest and a pleasant walking trail. It's recommended that you take a leisurely stroll here to fully appreciate the environment.