CULTURAL RESOURCE MANAGEMENT Information for Parks, Federal Agencies, Indian Tribes, States, Local Governments, m urnan d| the Private Sector
VOLUME 20 NO. 9 1997
National Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative
Preserving Our National Heritage
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR National Park Service Cultural Resources PUBLISHED BY THE CRM CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF PUBLICATION NATIONAL PARK SERVICE VOLUME 20 NO. 9 1997 Contents ISSN 1068-4999 To promote and maintain high standards for preserving and managing cultural resources National Historic Landmarks
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR Assistance Initiative CULTURAL RESOURCE STEWARDSHIP AND PARTNERSHIPS Preserving Our National Heritage: The National Historic Landmarks Assistance Katherine H. Stevenson Initiative 3 de Teel Patterson Tiller EDITOR Take Action—Letter from the National Parks and Conservation Association 4 Ronald M. Greenberg Eileen Woodford PRODUCTION MANAGER Introduction 5 Kariota M. Koester Susan Escherich
GUEST EDITOR Expanding Participation and Support for the Designation of NHLs 6 Susan Escherich Carol Shull The National Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative 9 ADVISORS Susan Escherich David Andrews Editor, NPS Parks Without Boundaries: The NHL Program 14 Joan Bacharach Cherilyn Widell Museum Registrar, NPS Randall J. Biallas Preserving a President's Community 16 Histórica! Architect, NPS Jon E. Taylor Susan Buggey Director, Historical Services Branch "I'm From the Government and I'm Here to Help You"—Visiting NHLs 19 Parks Guiada Bill Wilcox John A. Bums Architect, NPS The NPS Challenge Cost Share Program 21 Harry A. Butowsky Lysa Wegman-French, Linda Cook, and Bill Bolger Historian, NPS Pratt Cassity A Leap of Faith—Preservation with ISTEA Funding 24 Executive Director, Linda Cook National Alliance of Preservation Commissions Muriel Crespi Are We Missing the Boat? Marketing Alaska's National Historic Landmarks . . . .25 Cultural Anthropologist, NPS Linda Cook Mark R. Edwards Director, Historic Preservation Division, Landmark Makes Good—The Aleutian Historic Area 27 State Historic Preservation Officer, Georgia Roger E. Kelly Linda Cook Archeologist, NPS Small Town, Grand Plans—The Silverton,Colorado NHL 29 Antoinette J. Lee Historian, NPS Christine Whitacre John Poppeliers Wheelock Academy—Model for the Indian Territory 32 International Liaison Officer for Cultural Resources, NPS Catherine Colby The National Historic Landmarks Initiative in the Southeast Region 34 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Stephen A. Morris Mark R. Barnes Certified Local Governments (CLG) Coordinator, NPS The Presidio Within the Presidio—Historical Archeology in a NHL 38 Kay D. Weeks Technical Writer-Editor, NPS Leo Barker Bodie, California—Preserving a Historic Mining Landscape 41 CONSULTANTS Wm. H. Freeman Ann Huston and B. Noah Tilghman Design, Imaging, Production-Freeman Publishing Services Midway National Historic Landmark: Transfer and Transformation 45 Janice C. McCoy Editing-Editorial Notes Lou Ann Speulda
An electronic version of this Cover: Church of the Holy Ascension NHL, Unalaska.AK. Community pride and delight in saving their church is issue of CRM can be accessed evident in the Christmas wrapping of the newly restored building.With structural repairs completed, the church through the CRM homepage at awaited the barge bringing the shipment of new siding Christmas 1995. Photo by Roger Hunter, International
Statements of fact and views are the responsibility of the authors and do not necessarily reflect an opinion or endorsement on the part of the editors, the CRM advisors and consultants, or the National Park Service. Send articles, news items, and correspondence to the Editor CRM (2250), U.S. Department of the Interior, National Park Service, Cultural Resources, 1849 C St., NW, Washington, DC 20240; 202-343-3395, Fax 202-343-5260; email:
2 CRM N2 9—1997 de Teel Patterson Tiller Preserving Our National Heritage The National Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative
istoric places make tangible the Once NHLs are designated, the National American experience. Through Park Service (NPS) commits to the preservation of these authentic sites, we more these irreplaceable resources through the National fully experience and understand Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative. The the majoHr events, the significant individuals, out Assistance Initiative promotes the preservation of standing examples of design and construction, NHLs through technical assistance to their stew and the great ideas that shaped our nation. ards—owners, managers and friends' groups—and Historic places guide us in comprehending the education of the general public about the impor complexity of important trends and patterns in tance of NHLs and of their preservation. The NPS American history. They teach us what it is to be works with partners such as other federal agen an American. They form the common bonds that cies, State Historic Preservation Officers, local tie together the many groups that settled the governments, Indian Tribes, colleges and universi country and provide anchors of stability in a fast- ties, private organizations and individuals, and changing world, ensuring that our history will be non-profit organizations such as the National Park accessible to generations yet unborn. Foundation, the National Parks and Conservation While most historic places are important Association, and the National Trust for Historic locally or on a state level, a few resonate with Preservation, to educate and assist all Americans most Americans. Those that "possess exceptional in preserving their heritage. value or quality in illustrating or interpreting the Although the vast majority of our NHLs are heritage of the United States" are designated being carefully preserved, approximately 6% of National Historic Landmarks (NHLs). They illumi them at any given time are threatened, with their nate our rich and complex human story that spans survival for future generations in question. Their more than 10,000 years, from the arrival of loss would diminish us all and sever the link from ancient hunters who crossed into Alaska from our past to the next generations. The National Asia, to the living traditions of today's Native Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative works Americans, to citizens whose roots lay in Africa with owners, governments, and citizens to see that 200 years ago, to more recent immigrants to our these unique resources are preserved. shores. The story is there to be told on Brooklyn While most NHLs are owned privately, it is, beaches, in presidential homes, on vast stretches in the final analysis, the American public which is of arctic tundra, at the sacred places in responsible for preserving its irreplaceable Micronesia, on battlefields, a* Dexter Avenue pueblo ruins and earthen baptist Church mounds, in the nation's indus NHL, Montgomery, trial centers, and in our his Alabama. This small church served as toric towns and communities. the original head Now numbering over quarters of the 2,200, NHLs are acknowl Montgomery edged as our nation's most Improvement Association, headed important historic, traditional, by Dr. Martin and archeological places, Luther Kingjr., those of transcendent impor which carried out a tance to us all. They are desig successful boycott nated by the Secretary of the of segregated city buses in 1955. Interior, after review by the Photo by Susan Landmarks Committee of the Escherich. National Park System Advisory Board.
CRM N2 9—1997 3 National Historie Landmarks. Unless we as a peo tions, and become involved in the founding of a ple collectively care about these truly unique nation-wide National Historic Landmarks friends places, they ultimately lose their importance to us group. The National Park Service can provide as a nation. National significance is not an guidance and technical advice, but preservation of innately inherent quality. It must be conferred, NHLs ultimately requires public commitment to understood, renewed, and preserved by us all—as our national heritage. a people. Join us! There are many ways in which you can pro mote this important goal. These include visiting de Teel Patterson Tiller is Chief, Heritage NHLs, learning about preservation issues and tech Preservation Services, National Center for Cultural niques, and teaching your children to preserve and Resource Stewardship and Partnership Programs, value their history and historic places. You can Washington, DC. encourage your elected officials to support legisla tion that protects historic properties, and educate For further information, please contact the them about the importance of cultural tourism to National Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative, the economy of their jurisdiction. You can join Heritage Preservation Services, 1849 C Street, local or statewide historic preservation associa NW, Mail Stop 2255, Washington, DC 20240.
Take Action— A Letter from the National Parks and Conservation Association
.National Historic Landmarks are, in their own quiet way, a means of defining more broadly our common his tories and collective heritage. Through the National Historic Landmarks (NHL) program, we can acknowledge our diversity as a nation in concrete and meaningful ways. Through the preservation of these places, we can pass down to our children a more complete picture of what it means to be American. In 1966, Congress authorized a direct grant program to assist NHLs; however, no appropriation of money has followed. Thus, it is not surprising that a program with no maintenance funding would find that deterioration is the main threat to both publicly and privately-owned NHLs. That's not the end of the story, however. If the era of big government is over, then the era of creative government must begin. The National Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative, described in this issue of CRM, is a pioneering way to leverage the ability of the National Park Service to care for and preserve these special places with public and private support. Through this pro gram, owners have the opportunity to share knowledge, techniques, and practices to resolve common problems. They will create a collective voice to advocate for NHL preservation at all levels of society. Our job—the National Parks and Conservation Association as advocates, and the National Park Service as facilitators—is to make sure that this initiative is not just another good idea that disappears from our consciousness in a short while. We must support the owners of NHLs in substantive ways, as well as bringing their message to the public, so that the public will seek to preserve NHLs in a more active way. At the same time, while we move ahead with the assistance initiative, we must remind Congress that it has a fiduciary responsibility to facilitate the preservation of NHLs. The key to saving America's NHLs is a responsible join ing together of American government—including Congress—and the American people. That's the trust that this initia tive hopes to create. In addition to the assistance initiative, this issue of CRM allows us to learn about a variety of individual efforts across the country to preserve NHLs. I hope that from reading this issue, more ideas will form, and thus expand and improve our efforts to conserve America's cultural legacy.
—Eileen Woodford Northeast Regional Director National Parks and Conservation Association
4 CRM N2 9—1997 ships for stewardship of natural and cultural Introduction resources. Some parks have been doing this for a long time in connection with the NHL program. Jon E. Taylor, historian with the Harry S Truman National Historic Site in Independence, Missouri, describes working to promote preservation with the residents and businessmen of the Harry S ederal responsibility for leadership Truman Historic District National Historic in preservation of the nation's his Landmark. This NHL extends far beyond the four toric heritage belongs to the buildings owned by the NPS. William Wilcox, his F Secretary of the Interior. This torian in Herbert Hoover National Historic Site in responsibility has been delegated to the National West Branch, Iowa, writes about his experiences Park Service, which includes many historic units visiting the 23 National Historic Landmark own and resources within its own park system. The ers in Iowa over the past 10 years. NPS is also charged with educating the public Many aspects of technical assistance pro about the importance of understanding the vided by the NPS to private, local, state, tribal nation's history and preserving the historic places and federal stewards of NHLs are discussed in which embody that heritage, regardless of owner this issue. Lysa Wegman-French, historian in the ship. NPS Rocky Mountain Support Office, describes de Teel Patterson Tiller, Chief of Heritage the ways various NHLs were able to benefit from Preservation Services in the NPS, begins this issue the NPS's Challenge Cost Share Grants. by reminding us that responsibility for the preser Linda Cook, historian in the Alaska Support vation of National Historic Landmarks belongs to Office, discusses the use of money available under all of us. The National Parks and Conservation the Intermodal Surface Transportation Efficiency Association (NPCA) has long been a voice for the Act (ISTEA) for the preservation of a Russian national park system and its programs. Eileen Orthodox Church in Unalaska. Linda also writes Woodford, Director of the Northeast Region of the about the need to market Alaska's NHLs and the NPCA, urges owners to work together to resolve NHL program to the cruise ship industry, and common problems and advocate for NHLs. about the benefits to the preservation of native The NPS not only nominates new NHLs in Aleut heritage of the new Aleutian World War II partnership with others, but also provides guid National Historic Area, which was created in ance on their preservation. Expansion of participa 1996. tion in the nomination process is discussed by Christine Whitacre, historian in the Rocky Carol Shull, Keeper of the National Register of Mountain Support Office, describes the impres Historic Places and Chief of the National Historic sive preservation efforts of the small mining town Landmark Survey. of Silverton, Colorado. Silverton's volunteer his The NPS monitors the condition of NHLs torical society put together funding from many dif and reports to Congress on damage and threats to ferent sources, including ISTEA, the Historic these properties. NPS also makes recommenda Preservation Fund, and the NPS as well as private tions for ways to mitigate the damage or threats funding, to restore their town hall and create a without destroying the essential characteristics of museum. Mark Barnes, with the NPS Southeast the Landmark, its "integrity." Monitoring and Regional Office, describes its efforts to prepare assistance to NHLs are carried out by NPS staff in nominations for many new NHLs across the nine field offices, coordinated by NPS' National South, including Puerto Rico. Catherine Colby, Center for Cultural Resource Stewardship and historian in the Southwest Support Office, Partnerships in Washington. The National Historic describes working with the Wheelock Academy Landmarks Assistance Initiative is discussed by NHL, which served the Choctaw community Susan Escherich, Coordinator of the Assistance between 1832 and 1955. Initiative. Archeological investigations in the Presidio The NPS works with State Historic of San Francisco NHL have resulted in the discov Preservation Offices to carry out preservation pro ery of "The Presidio within the Presidio." An arti grams throughout the country. Cherilyn Widell, cle by Leo Barker, historical archeologist with the California State Historic Preservation Officer, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, describes writes about the importance of the NHL program the methodology and reasoning used in this inves in helping carry out the preservation of all historic tigation. resources in the states. Ann Huston, of the Pacific Great Basin National parks are being encouraged to Support Office, worked closely over many years reach out to their communities and forge partner with B. Noah Tilghman, Cultural Resource
CRM N2 9—1997 5 Manager with the California State Park System, Historic Landmarks. Hopefully readers will find and the Bureau of Land Management to work out new inspiration and ideas in this issue. Thanks to a way to preserve the historic mining town of all who contributed and congratulations on all the Bodie, California. The story, which reads like the good work that NPS and its partners—federal, "Perils of Pauline," involved federal, state, local state, local and private—are doing towards the and private owners, but shows that persistence preservation of NHLs and all of the nation's his and creativity pay off. toric heritage. Finally, an article by Lou Ann Speulda, of the Region I Office of the Fish and Wildlife —Susan Escherich, National Park Service Service, describes an excellent example of creative cooperation among federal agencies in the story of The editor wishes to thank the authors of the transfer of World War II Facilities at Midway articles and letters in this issue, and Antoinette J. NHL out of U.S. Navy management to that of the Lee, Acting Chief, Preservation Initiatives Branch, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which will preserve and Bryan C. Green, NCSHPO Historian, for their both cultural and natural resources. editorial assistance. The articles as a whole provide an overview of many facets of the preservation of National
Carol D. Shull Expanding Participation and Support for the Designation of NHLs
o date, only 2,210 National established format for National Historic Landmark Historic Landmarks (NHLs) have theme studies. The Multiple Property Submission been officially designated by the format with its sections on historic context, prop TSecretary of the Interior for their erty types, and evaluation criteria, methodology exceptional significance in illustrating the history and bibliography is familiar to and much used by of the United States, but many more nationally nominating authorities and the rest of the preser important places are worthy of designation. vation community. The bulletin also describes how Because National Park Service (NPS) funding to prepare NHL nominations and how to amend and staff for the National Historic Landmarks National Register documentation for landmark Survey are so small, nominations are generally designation. prepared by others as part of organized theme Several years ago, the National Conference studies or as single nominations that can be initi of State Historic Preservation Officers (NCSHPO) ated by anyone. The NPS is trying in a variety put forth "A Modest Proposal" concerning the ways to expand participation by State Historic NHL program. The proposal suggests that in Preservation Officers, federal agencies, American preparing NHL theme studies, the NPS concen Indian tribes, professional organizations, and the trate on the production of a national historic con public. text for particular subjects, themes, or resource Recently, the NPS reorganized to more types; establish guidelines and criteria for deter closely align the NHL Survey with the National mining national significance with long lasting use Register of Historic Places. A new National fulness; prepare only sample nominations as Register Bulletin on how to complete NHL nomina examples from the pool of known resources of tions is being prepared and circulated for comment national significance; and identify additional prop prior to publication. This bulletin will provide the erties that would qualify. More nominations would first detailed published guidance on how to docu then be prepared by others gradually over time. ment national significance and prepare NHL nomi The proposal also urges that guidelines for the nations. The bulletin adopts the National Register production of NHL documentation be revised to Multiple Property Documentation Form as the include all aspects of a property's National
6 CRM N2 9—1997 Register significance, not just the area of national at the expense of the state, and two more by pri significance. These principles will be incorporated vate groups. NHL nominations for a variety of into the new bulletin. other properties are being underwritten by private This year, the NPS is joining with the non-profit organizations, property owners, and NCSHPO to initiate a model NHL theme study even an architectural firm in charge of the restora using this approach. Already, several theme stud tion of one building. In Connecticut, the SHPO ies underway are using the approach, such as the and the American Institute of Architects chapter Earliest Americans and Archeology of the have cosponsored NHL nominations. The Texas Underground Railroad theme studies, now being and the New York SHPOs are also sponsoring done in partnership with the Society for American nominations in 1997. Archaeology and the Society for Historical The active NHL theme studies, several of Archaeology. which have been mandated by Congress, are all In the upcoming model study, the first step partnership endeavors. The Newberry Library in will be for the NPS and the NCSHPO to solicit Chicago is in charge of the Labor theme study. The recommendations for priority topics that merit a theme study on large dams funded by the Corps of national context study. This responds to a sugges Engineers and Bureau of Reclamation is being tion recently put forth by NCSHPO members that coordinated by the Public Works Historical the NPS sponsor historic context studies to assist Association working with top notch scholars. in cultural resource evaluations in some key sub Archeological theme studies like those on the jects where a national context study would be Contact Period in the Northeast, the Village Sites especially useful. Once a topic for the model is of the Middle Missouri, the Earliest Americans, selected the theme study in the Multiple Property and Archeology of the Underground Railroad, Submission format and some sample nominations have been or are being carried out in cooperation will be prepared under contract, the goal being to with a wide variety of partners. The Society for involve recognized scholars and cultural resource American Archaeology has been a long-time part professionals with expertise in the subject to pro ner in all of the theme studies for archeological duce the best possible study and sample nomina resources, and it has a standing committee to tions. The theme study and sample nominations review all NHL nominations that include archeo will be made available to SHPOs and others in the logical resources. preservation partnership for use in evaluating and The NPS wants to strengthen its ties with documenting similar resources both for NHL des other professional organizations such as the ignation and the National Register, thus increasing Society of Architectural Historians and the the value, relevance, and usefulness of theme Organization of American Historians and with col studies nationwide. SHPOs and others will be leges and universities and to assure that the encouraged to prepare additional nominations for results of studies are more widely available. The NHL designation and National Register listing and University of Oklahoma Press has published the to use the context study to identify eligible proper Contact in the Northeast theme study as a book. ties that may be affected by federal projects, thus Their interest and cooperation make historic con facilitating the Section 106 process. tact one of the most widely available NHL theme The NPS already works in partnership with studies. Some of the individual NHL nominations SHPOs and others in a variety Craham Cave of additional ways aimed at NHL, Montgomery increasing NHL designations. County, MO.This It has been a standard prac was the first site tice to ask for SHPOs and showing the devel opment of Eastern subject-area experts to recom Archaic cultures mend properties for NHL des within the Paleo- ignation when theme studies Indian time range. are conducted. In the past Its artifacts date from 8000 BC. year, the NPS has contracted Courtesy NPS. with state historic preserva tion offices in Delaware, Indiana, Iowa, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Vermont, and Wisconsin to prepare 13 nominations in the Underground Railroad theme study. Another is being done
CRM N2 9—1997 7 Pinehurst Country may be frustrated when the Club in Pinehurst NPS responds that the docu NHL, Pinehurst, NC.ThisNHLwas mentation does not support a designated in June, claim of national significance. 1996. Photo by SHPOs deal with similar chal Paul Barton. lenges when they are approached by those who seek National Register listing for properties that may not have significance or integrity. The task is made more diffi cult because theme studies have not been conducted in most subjects. The NPS urges those interested in preparing NHL nominations to consult the in that study have been published in professional NPS staff in the NHL Survey in Washington or the journals. Plans are being made for a published NPS regional offices assigned to the NHL program. guide to NHLs. The goal is to get NHL documenta These individuals can provide information on tion and information on these very important whether relevant theme studies have been con properties published to make it available to schol ducted or are underway, identify properties that ars and the general public as well as to the preser have previously been considered for or already vation community. This will enhance the relevance designated as NHLs to which the property should of the program and encourage the preservation of be compared, and provide preliminary evalua important resources by bringing their values to the tions. The National Register Information System is attention of the public. another source of information. National Register In an exciting new approach, University of documentation for listed resources should be Washington professor, Dr. Gail Dubrow, has devel reviewed to avoid duplication of effort. Early con oped a proposal on her own initiative and is seek sultation with the NPS staff for information and ing funding from a variety of sources for the preliminary evaluations will help avoid frustra University of Washington to carry out a theme tions later on in the process. study to identify historic places reflecting the con Sometimes it is necessary to ask scholars tributions of Japanese Americans. Dr. Dubrow and with expertise in a subject area for assistance in her students would do much of the work in coop evaluating the national significance of properties eration with a number of partners. The NPS wel whose importance is not clear. If a property is not comes proposals for studies on other topics where eligible for NHL designation, supporters are urged the sponsor would contribute support or take the to seek National Register listing if it appears to be lead in finding the money to make them possible. of state or local importance and is not already reg Right now, only about 25 new NHLs are des istered. ignated each year. The biggest challenges for the The NPS is committed to expanding partici NHL Survey are to make the designation process pation in the NHL program and to making NHL more accessible, find additional sources of funding theme studies and NHL documentation widely and support for studies, and assure that theme available for a variety of uses. This must be done studies and nominations meet high standards of while assuring that NHL designation is reserved scholarship and result in the designation of only for only those cultural resources that clearly are of clearly nationally-significant properties with high exceptional value in illustrating the history of the integrity. Distinguishing which properties are truly nation. of national significance is sometimes difficult, especially if a theme study has not or cannot be Carol D. Shull is Keeper of the National Register of conducted because of funding limitations. Historic Places and Chief of the National Historic Advocates of designation for a particular property Landmarks Survey.
8 CRM N2 9—1997 Susan Escherich The National Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative
he genesis of the National Historic Service (NPS), which promotes historic preserva Landmarks (NHL) program was the tion through a number of programs, including list Historic Sites Act of 1935, which ing properties in the National Register of Historic directs the Secretary of the Interior Places and the National Historic Landmarks pro to studyT, document, and designate nationally-sig gram. Properties listed in the National Register nificant historic sites. The National Historic may be of local, state, or national significance. Preservation Act of 1966 expanded the Properties designated as NHLs are limited to those Secretary's responsibilities to promote preserva of national significance, and must be designated tion, declaring that it is the policy of the federal by the Secretary of the Interior. To date, 2,210 government to provide leadership to and encour buildings, districts, structures, sites, and objects agement in the preservation of prehistoric and have been designated as NHLs, embodying and historic resources of federal agencies, American exemplifying important national aspects of Indian tribes, state and local governments, pri American history and prehistory. vate entities, and individuals. The NHL program is administered through The lead in the national historic preservation the National Historic Landmarks Survey, which program was delegated to the National Park studies and documents historic and archeological properties, and the National Market Hall and Historic Landmarks Assistance Sheds NHL, Initiative, which monitors the Charleston, South Carolina. Market condition of designated NHLs Hall, built in 1841, and provides technical assistance is one of a small to promote their preservation. number of 19th- The NPS provides technical assis century market complexes extant in tance, including training in, and the United States. information concerning, profes The NPS provided a sional preservation methods and condition assess techniques and the administra ment report used tion of the historic preservation by the city in its subsequent restora program at the federal, state, and tion of this NHL local levels, and works with pub Photo by Lee lic and private partners to pro Nelson. mote stewardship of the nation's cultural resources. Union Station NHL Endangered NHLs St. Louis, Missouri. The trainshed of An important facet of the this impressive High NHL Assistance Initiative is mon Victorian station itoring and reporting on the con was, when con dition of the nation's Landmarks. structed in the early To prepare the report, NPS field 1890s, the largest continuous train staff consult State Historic shed in the country. Preservation Offices, site man Innovative adaptive agers, and owners of NHLs to re-use, using the ascertain their condition. The NPS-administered historic tax credits, report identifies the NHLs signifi allowed retention of cance, threats to its integrity—the this essential com characteristics that help us under ponent of the NHL. stand its significance—and rec ommendations for its preservation. This report is sent
CRM N2 9—1997 9 One of the radial to Congress and is used by policy makers, owners, arms of Eastern and friends of NHLs to promote their preservation. State Penitentiary For the last 10 years, approximately 6% of NHLs NHL, Philadelphia, PA. Eastern State, have been found to be seriously damaged or built in the 1820s, threatened, and an additional 10% potentially was a model endangered. prison for its time, The number of NHLs newly identified as built with the aim of reforming pris endangered usually is fairly close to—and in two oners through iso recent years actually matches—the number lation which would removed from danger each year. Approximately encourage them to 80% of threatened and damaged NHLs are deterio meditate on their rated; erosion is also a major threat, particularly to behavior and repent. It has an archeological sites. The process of identifying and active friends' prioritizing needed treatments for deteriorated group which Is properties and fundraising to carry them out is seeking a viable often time consuming. The average length of time adaptive reuse for the buildings. a property is listed as damaged or threatened is four and a half years, but some properties have been listed for over 10 years. Deterioration can eventually become irreversible and an important example of the nation's heritage can be lost for ever. Of the NHLs listed as damaged in 1996, 37 have been listed continuously for 10 or more years. Of these, 14 are archeological sites, 12 are historic districts, and 11 are The blockhouse at buildings. the British Camp, In order to facilitate repairs American and English Camps of damaged NHLs, the NPS has NHL San Juan provided condition assessments lsland.WA.This of over 92 properties. These con Blockhouse was dition assessments are based on restored by the NPS, but continues careful professional analysis of to be threatened the physical condition of the by deterioration buildings. They describe existing caused by tidal conditions and prioritize treat inundation. ments needed to stabilize or repair the buildings, with esti mated costs of the work. These can be used by owners to seek funding and direct necessary work on the buildings. While in recent years the NPS has not had
Mound at Holly the funding to carry out as many Bluff NHL,Yazoo condition assessments, they County, MS. Land remain an important preservation levelling to allow tool. the use of large agricultural Another widespread threat machines has to the integrity of NHLs is incom destroyed many patible construction or repairs. Native American This can often be prevented by archeological sites. education on the importance of Courtesy NPS. preserving a property's materials, features, spaces and setting. The NPS prepares and distributes technical publications* that explain how to preserve, repair, and adapt historic properties for
10 CRM N2 9—1997 Amana Colonies new uses in ways that preserve NHL, Iowa County, their integrity. Income-producing IA. The Amana Colonies were historic properties which are established by the rehabilitated according to the Utopian Amana Secretary of the Interior's Society in the Standards for Rehabilitation may 1850s. Many of be able to benefit from a 20% tax the buildings are still in their original credit. This program is also use; others, like this administered by the NPS. Bakery, which is Technical Assistance to Owners now a bed and The NPS trains owners and breakfast have managers of NHLs through con been adapted to keep them eco ferences and workshops across nomically viable. the country. Areas of training may include: identifying sources of financial assistance and writing historic preservation grant appli Amana Colonies cations; technical preservation NHL, Iowa County, IA. Incompatible techniques and standards; infor signage disrupts mation on preservation organiza the historic atmos tions, legislation affecting historic phere of the NHL preservation, or marketing NHLs that are open to the public. The NPS may offer assistance in improving the historical docu mentation of a Landmark, in identifying contributing struc tures, or in defining or updating boundaries if needed. The NPS architects may assist owners with architectural design assistance or review, or planning for adaptive reuse for historic buildings, including meeting the Secretary of the Interior's Standards for Historic Rehabilitation and qualifying for federal Vieux Carre NHL rehabilitation tax credits. State Historic New Orleans, LA. Preservation Offices also have architects trained in The Vieux Carre, an 85-block area of these areas who can offer assistance to owners of old New Orleans, historic properties. retains most of the This spring, the NPS asked owners and man original city plan agers of NHLs what services and information were laid out in I72l.lt contains a variety of most use to them. As could be predicted, raising of distinctive histor funds to maintain, repair, and operate their his ical architectural toric properties was the predominant concern. styles. Skyscrapers Information and assistance on marketing their built adjacent to properties as tourist destinations and condition the historic district provide a jarring assessments of properties were also very important note to the historic to many owners. The next most desired services district were information on preservation law that might affect historic properties and information on avail able grants and on grant writing. Over half of the owners who responded said that their NHLs had been listed in the annual report to Congress on endangered and damaged NHLs. Half of these had used the report to publi cize the importance and needs of the NHL, and 25% had used it in fundraising to preserve their
CRM N*2 9—1997 11 Resurrection tural resources web site Manor NHL, St.
12 CRM N2 9—1997 Owners were also overwhelmingly (84%) nationally-significant properties which embody our interested in receiving a newsletter that would shared heritage. cover areas such as historic preservation news and legislation, case studies of existing NHLs, Note fundraising and marketing strategies, and updates * NPS Heritage Preservation Services has produced a on new NHLs. large number of technical publications over 25 The NPS will use the findings of the owners' years of providing leadership and guidance in his survey to guide its technical assistance activities toric preservation. For catalogs, phone 202-343- in the future. Preservation professionals located in 9583 or email
NPS NATIONAL HISTORIC LANDMARKS ASSISTANCE INITIATIVE
Heritage Preservation Services National Center for Cultural Resource Stewardship & Partnerships 1849 C Street, NW, Mail Stop 2255 Washington, D.C. 20240 Susan Escherich, Coordinator: 202-343-9591
Alaska Support Office Philadelphia Support Office 2525 Gambell St., Room 107 Second and Chestnut Streets Anchorage, AK 99503 Philadelphia, PA 19106 Linda Cook: 907-261-2658 Bill Bolger: 215-597-1578 Sande Anderson: 907-261-2547 Kate Catalano Milley: 215-597-1580 AK CT, DE, DC, ME, MD, MA, NH, NJ, NY, PA,VT, VA, WV Columbia Cascades Support Office 909 First Avenue Rocky Mountain Support Office Seattle, WA 98104-1060 12795 West Alameda Parkway Hank Florence: 206-220-4133 P.O. Box 25287 ID, WA, OR Denver, CO 80225-0287 Lysa Wegman-French: 303-969-2842 Great Plains Support Office Christine Whitacre: 303-969-2885 1079 Jackson Street MT, WY, CO, UT Omaha, NE 68102 Dena Sanford: 402-221-3429 KS,NE,SD,ND Southeast Support Office Rachel Franklin Weekley: 402-221-3921 AR, IA, MO Atlanta Federal Center 1924 Building Great Lakes Support Office 100 Alabama Street, SW 1079 Jackson Street Atlanta, GA 30303 Omaha, NE 68102 404-562-3171 William Nelligan: 402-221-3748 MI, MN, WI Cecil McKithan Diane Miller: 402-221-3749 IL, IN, OH Mark Barnes Frank Miele Pacific Great Basin Support Office AL, FL, GA, KY, LA, MS, NC, PR, SC, TN, VI 600 North Harrison Street, Suite 600 San Francisco, CA 94107-1372 Southwest Support Office 415-427-1398 P.O. Box 728 Ann Huston—CA, HI, NV, American Samoa, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87504 Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands, 505-988-6788 Federated States of Micronesia, Republic of Palau, Catherine Colby Republic of the Marshall Islands AZ, NM, TX, OK
CRM N2 9—1997 13 Cherilyn Widell Parks Without Boundaries The NHL Program n a daily basis, State Historic on the National..." or "what does landmark desig Bos relief dating Preservation Officers (SHPOs) nation prevent me from doing?" At the local level, from 1857 on one must deal with a multitude of his the confusion about the NHL designation leads of the early build toric preservation designations many to question its continued relevance. I could ings remaining in O that range from local landmarks to National not disagree more. Mare Island NHL, Vallejo, California. Historic Landmarks (NHLs). Most of us who The NHL program is a critical designation Photo by Susan work in the historic preservation field have program in the process of identifying and inter Escherich. become adept at sorting out these various desig preting our collective national heritage. True to our nations—along with their corresponding benefits democracy, the United States' national historic and protections. But, to most citizens, the phrase preservation program—unlike programs in other "landmark status" is still far from clear. Few of countries—is inclusive rather than exclusive. Our the lay public understand the range of designa national egalitarian character values the humble tions, economic incentives, and technical infor log cabin as much as the elegant mansion, the mation available to them. Further uncertainty is steel mill as much as the skyscraper, and everyday created by the variety of government agencies places as much as our national shrines. It is this (federal, state, and local) that provides these des philosophy that drives the National Register of ignations. This lack of understanding prevents Historic Places—still the most democratic, grass our national historic preservation program from roots driven historic preservation designation pro being as effective as it might be. gram in the world. Lay people usually just want the answers to Despite the emphasis on local significance, such basic questions as "how do I get a property there is a need for Americans to understand that in many instances, national history is embodied in Hotel del Coronado, San these community places. The NHL program helps Diego, California. us to establish these national themes, personages, Photo by Robert C. and accomplishments. For example, Nassau Hall Van Etten. is the central building on the Princeton University campus and is prominent within the contexts of both the Borough of Princeton and Princeton University. It is also a NHL because it served as the nation's capítol for several weeks. In another example, in western Maryland, where many stone bridges are located and revered, the Casselman Bridge is a favorite local landmark. At the same time, it is also a NHL because it car ried traffic on the National Road that led to this country's western expansion. The NHL program finds those special places in our own backyards that connect our individual communities to the nation's history. The NHL program evolved from some of the earliest efforts in the country to preserve and pro tect historic places. The National Park Service (NPS), as well as state park systems, such as those in California, used historical themes as a means of identifying properties that should be acquired for historical parks. In the 1920s, acqui sition was perceived as the only way to save his toric places. Then, as now, funds were limited and
14 CRM N2 9—1997 vides that key link between the story of a commu nity and the story of the nation. At times in the past, the NPS designated a place as a NHL that members of the surrounding community never realized had any historic signifi cance. Today, we are working together to build the connections and understanding between the telling of a community's history and its relationship with national history. Not only will this result in a citi zenry that is better informed about our national heritage, but it will also help to better convey our national history to foreign visitors interested in getting beyond our national parks. This will bring the benefits and pride of heritage tourism to our cities, towns, and rural areas. SHPOs must work with communities and the NPS to strengthen this link because it will result in a stronger national historic preservation pro Marin County Civic. there were more nationally-significant historic Center, NHL sites that could be acquired by state or federal gram at every level. Through the NHL technical designed by Frank park systems. It is this initial list of sites that assistance efforts and by using the property as an Lloyd Wright San became the basis of the NHL program. illustration about how to care for related proper Rafael, California. The NHL program was described in the 1959 ties in an area, the NPS could influence the stew Photo by Susan ardship of cultural properties throughout an entire Escherich. edition of the National Survey of Historic Sites and Buildings as "reminding us of famous persons region, not just the owner of the NHL. and events that have made our American way of In times of disaster, the NHL program pro life possible. In a time of deep crisis, the survival vides the SHPO with an immediate list of proper of our Nation may depend on our knowledge and ties that should get the first and highest priority appreciation of the hardships, sacrifices, and for response and protection. The NHL program ideals of our forefathers." The NHL program sig also provides the United States with a list of nificantly predated and foreshadowed the 1966 nationally-significant properties that can qualify National Historic Preservation Act that established for international designations, such as the World the National Register of Historic Places. Heritage List. The list can be used on a compara In 1997, most citizens know that all signifi tive basis with other cultural property listings cant historic properties cannot possibly be con worldwide. Further, the NHL program can assist tained within national or state parks. The now with the understanding of historical themes that leave their imprint on communities across the Proscenium of popular term, "parks without boundaries" empha sizes the importance of connecting historic proper nation. Paramount Theater Most importantly, the NHL program could NHL, Oakland, ties in parks and the stewardship ethic they California. Courtesy represent within the context of the community in and should be the pre-eminent showplace of pri NPS. which they are located. The NHL program pro vate stewardship of designated landmark proper ties of every level of significance. Working hand-in-hand with the private owners of NHLs, the NPS and SHPOs could provide the model for how all levels of government and the private sector can pro-actively assist property owners in taking advantage of available incentives and technical information to preserve and protect landmarks. The NHL program moves cultural resource stewardship beyond the boundaries of our national parks and brings an understanding of our national heritage into our communities. That con nection to our national history, in turn, strength ens our understanding of our local, state, and regional history and makes us all better informed citizens.
Cherilyn Widell is the State Historic Preservation Officer for California.
CRM N2 9—1997 15 Jon E. Taylor Landmark (Truman NHL) is a classic example of a nationally-significant landmark whose protection occurs at the local level. Of all the NHLs in the country, there is per Preserving a haps none more complex than the Truman NHL. Few NHLs contain as many privately-owned build ings and homes as the Truman NHL. Still fewer President's Community NHLs contain a national park within their bound aries. Throw into the mix deteriorating century-old s usual, the former President was buildings, expansion-minded churches, and a lack up early. He emerged from his of preservation education programs for homeown house, unlocked the front gate, ers, and it is easy to see why the National Trust for and walked onto the sidewalk to Historic Preservation named the Truman NHL as begin Ahis early morning walk. His typical morning one of its 1996 most endangered historic places. constitutional took him past places that he had This article addresses the challenges and triumphs seen most of his life. He walked past the First the National Park Service faces as we attempt to Presbyterian Church on Maple Avenue where he partner with others to preserve this nationally-sig first met his wife at the age of six. Across the nificant area for all Americans. street he noted the Memorial Building where he In 1972, the Secretar/ of the Interior desig voted in every election since 1924. nated the Truman NHL with the approval of the Entering the city's business district he former President. According to the NHL nomina strolled past stores, tipping his hat to any mer tion, the Truman neighborhood was "the setting chants or shoppers he encountered. His jaunt con which has been the physical nucleus of both Harry tinued past the Jackson County courthouse where S Truman's personal and his long and influential he began his political career in 1922 as an admin political life" for 64 of his 88 years. In short, there istrative judge. Traveling on the south side of the are few communities in the world where a traveler courthouse, perhaps he paused to remember the can see many of the institutions (schools, cold November night in 1948 when he thanked churches, homes of neighbors) intact that influ thousands of supporters who had gathered to cele enced a person who became President of the brate his stunning upset victory over Thomas United States. Map of Harry S Dewey. Returning home he took Truman Road that Truman was a product of Independence. The Truman National brought him past the homes of his neighbors. schools he attended, the teachers who taught him, Historic Site and Taking the last turn on to Delaware Street, Harry San d the friendships he developed there influenced the Harry s Truman had completed another successful walk. him. As his political star rose from County S/rt NHL™ Tip °'Neiil said' "A" politics is loca1'" II has Administrator, to United States Senator, and later Courtesy National Deen saiH-tnat' "AH preservation is local," too. The as President, his community supported him Park Service. Harry S Truman Historic District National Historic because he was one of their own. Today, Truman's neighbors and school teachers are gone, but their legacy remains a part of the approxi mately 100 structures that comprise the Truman NHL. After the President's death in 1972, the federal gov ernment did not own any properties within the NHL boundaries. In 1982, Bess Truman, the President's widow, died, leaving her home at 219 North Delaware to the people of the United States. In 1984, the NPS opened the home for public tours
16 CRM N2 9—1997 President Truman ing the remaining structures in the Truman NHL returning to 219 we must advocate for preservation and educate North Delaware individual homeowners about preservation issues. after a walk through the neigh In 1996, the NPS began to reach out to the borhood. Photo by homeowners in the Truman NHL. We realized Vernon Galloway, many homeowners were unaware of preservation courtesy of the information and programs available to them. We Truman Library. knew that if the homes in the Truman NHL were to be preserved, the homeowners themselves were the ones who had to become involved. We also knew that we had to cooperate with other agencies who share our mission of historic preservation. Those and since that time three additional Truman fam partners included the State of Missouri Historic ily-related properties have been added to the site. Preservation Office; the City of Independenc; and No other federal acquisitions are planned, leaving the Truman Preservation Trust, a private non-profit over 90 structures within the Truman NHL in involved in restoration/rehabilitation efforts within mostly private hands. the Truman NHL. Shortly after the Truman NHL was created, In January of 1996, we secured the support the City of Independence passed the Truman of these partners to co-sponsor a preservation con Heritage District ordinance to protect all of the ference for the City of Independence that targeted Landmark and several more blocks outside the residents of the Truman NHL. A conference for res NHL boundaries. In 1984, the city reduced the size idents of Truman's neighborhood had never been of the Heritage District to accommodate a church held before. We were breaking new ground and we wishing to expand its facilities and parking, leaving were not sure what the interest would be. parts of the Truman NHL without city ordinance A tentative conference agenda was outlined protection. The result of the reduced size of the that called for a two-day meeting beginning on a Heritage District was the church's decision to Friday morning and lasting through Saturday after demolish several properties within the Landmark. noon. The Harry S Truman NHS secured all pan Today, the lack of city ordinance protection for por elists and rented the auditorium for the tions of the Truman NHL remains along with the conference. The City of Independence Historic potential threat for further demolition. Preservation Manager provided guidance about the Threats also exist on the perimeter of the topics for the panel discussions and served as a Truman NHL. In 1993 the E. P. Gates house, just speaker. The State of Missouri Historic outside the Truman NHL boundary, was demol Preservation Office also provided speakers as did ished to make way for a church entrance. E. P. the Truman Preservation Trust. Gates was an uncle of Bess Truman. In March of NPS staff promoted the conference beyond 1997 another property along Truman road, just the boundaries of the Truman NHL. Although our outside of the NHL boundary, but only a block focus was always the Truman NHL, we did not away from the Truman home, was demolished want to turn anyone away from learning about his because it had been allowed to deteriorate to the toric preservation issues. The cultural resource point where rehabilitation was not economically management staff and members of the interpretive feasible. staff from the Harry S Truman NHS went door-to- Today, the constitutionality of churches being door passing out over 1,000 leaflets in the historic subject to local preservation ordinances is being areas of Independence. We capitalized on every challenged at the highest levels of our judicial sys opportunity for free advertising by issuing press tem. Even though this is a constitutional issue the releases, writing articles for local publications, and debate points to a much larger question that not placing brochures in local businesses. On only faces the Truman NHL but other NHLs like it. September 14, 1996, the conference entitled, The question is: How do we as a nation advocate "Preserving a President's Community," began. Fifty for the preservation of a neighborhood that is con people pre-registered for the conference, with stantly evolving and changing? It is an issue that approximately 40 listing addresses in the Truman the NPS cannot easily resolve nor the author will NHL. Staff from the Harry S Truman NHS also attempt to resolve in this article. attended the conference and, combined with the The NPS does not wish to see further losses number of panelists, brought the conference atten in the Truman NHL or on its perimeter; however, dance to over 70. we realize the complexity of trying to preserve a The conference was designed to progress nationally-significant area that is still growing and from general information about historic preserva evolving. Since the NPS has no intention of acquir tion to more specific information about historic
CRM N9 9—1997 17 Participants in the tion experiences with one another and to tour each 1996 Preservation other's work. Conference gather Several months have passed since the confer in front of the Choplin home to ence. The threat of demolition remains, yet discuss its rehabili- progress is being made to preserve the neighbor tation.The Truman hood Harry Truman knew so well. The City of Preservation Trust Independence is working on a Comprehensive was instrumental in saving this struc Preservation Plan with technical and financial ture which is assistance from the National Trust that will include across the street the Truman NHL. The city is revising the enabling from the Truman legislation for the Heritage Commission, which is home. Photo by responsible for creating and expanding local his Brian Snyder, cour toric districts. This will have a positive impact on tesy Harry S homes and how to care for them. The Friday morn Truman National the Truman NHL. The Truman Preservation Trust ing panel discussions centered around two issues: Historic Site. has just completed rehabilitation of a home in the "What is Historic Preservation?" and "What is the Truman NHL within the viewshed of the Truman National Register?" The afternoon sessions began home. In September, the NPS will co-host another to tailor the conference to specific issues relating to conference about discovering historic preservation homeowners such as "How to 'Read' Historic information on the Internet. Again, the target audi Homes," "Funding Restoration Efforts," and the ence will be residents of the Truman NHL. final session, "Where and How to Start the Preservation is a continual process. Despite Restoration/Rehabilitation." On Saturday partici these gains there is more to be done. First, the pants divided into small groups to tour historic NPS must expand its partners in preservation to homes in various stages of rehabilitation. include local, state, and national organizations that Participants observed first hand some of the infor will support the preservation of the Truman NHL. mation presented during the Friday afternoon We cannot preserve this area by ourselves. Second, panel sessions. more preservation education programs that target Besides having the goal of preservation edu homeowners in the NHL district must be given cation, the conference had several other objectives. consideration for future funding. Programs that tar We needed to gauge the level of interest and get preservation research and preservation profes knowledge among the homeowners about historic sionals are needed; however, when one is talking preservation. Knowing the homeowners' level of about preserving the Truman NHL and other NHLs interest and knowledge about historic preservation like it, where the majority of the district is under would be crucial in developing future conferences private ownership, the private owners will be and programs that targeted their needs. By having responsible for preserving their properties for the conference co-hosted by federal, state, and future generations. Funds should be dispersed to local agencies involved in historic preservation, we educational programs that reach private homeown hoped the homeowners could gain a greater under ers. standing of each agency's role in historic preserva Preserving a President's community has been tion and how their programs could benefit each filled with challenges and triumphs. Understanding individual homeowner. The conference was also the preservation needs of private owners of NHLs designed to have homeowners interact as much as is crucial to ensure their future preservation. possible with preservation professionals so they Innovative partnerships and funding sources must would not hesitate to call upon them in the future. be explored if future generations of Americans are At the end of the presentations on Friday a to understand these cultural resources. After all, survey sheet was passed out to the participants Truman said it best when he wrote, "I've been tak that asked them to rate the usefulness of the panel ing my morning walks around the city and passing discussions and to make suggestions for future pro places that bring back wonderful recollections."* It grams. Overwhelmingly the respondents said they is our hope those "recollections" will be preserved favored more presentations on historic preserva for all Americans and the world. tion. Everyone who responded said they would attend future conferences. When asked to suggest topics for other conferences, most recommend con Note ferences on specific preservation treatments such * Robert H. Farrell, ed., Autobiography of Harry S as how to work with guttering or how to replace Truman, (Boulder, Colorado: Colorado Associated porches. The results were encouraging and the University press, 1980), p. 109. objectives of the conference were met. The Saturday morning walking tours were equally suc fon E. Taylor is a historian with the Harry S Truman cessful, allowing neighbors to share their preserva National Historic Site, Independence, Missouri.
18 CRM N2 9—1997 Bill Wilcox "I'm From the Government and I'm Here to Help You" Visiting NHLs or one week during each summer for most common questions that owners ask concerns the past 10 years, I have traveled the availability of funding for repairs or mainte around Iowa visiting many of the 23 nance of the property. NHLs located in the state and Although money is not available directly speakinFg with as many of the landmark owners through the NHL program, I have been able to or managers as possible. The process usually give several NHL owners information about a cost involves hours of planning and dozens of tele share program for historical properties adminis phone calls, hurried meals, and long hours while tered by the State Historical Society of Iowa. Some traveling, and occasional quick juggling of the NHLs have already received funding through the planned itinerary. But the results are well worth Historical Resource Development Program the effort. The main benefit of landmark visits is the oppor tunity to talk with the owners or managers about the NHL program and to directly learn about problems or conditions The George M. that concern them. Verity NHL at the Iowa contains a wide Keokuk River Museum, Keokuk, variety of NHL property types. Iowa, during the Most are publicly-owned floods of 1993. buildings, structures, vessels, Photo ©1993 Men or archeological sites, but Hess. there are also two privately- owned houses, a privately- owned vessel, and a privately-owned archeological site. Five are vessels and sev eral have multiple owners or are managed by an organiza tion that does not own the property. When I first started the visits, I encoun (HRDP) and others have requested applications. tered some owners who knew virtually nothing In addition to state grants, one NHL has received about the NHL program. Almost every year, I meet funding through the Challenge Cost Share Program new owners or newly appointed managers. They (CCSP) administered by the National Park may not be aware that their property is an NHL Service. and often have many questions. Their questions Periodic meetings with NHL owners help usually are easily answered and I carry a supply of establish communications with them. In addition "The National Historic Landmarks Program: to site visits, I telephone each owner once or twice Common Questions and Answers" and other litera through the year to ask if he or she has any ques ture to leave with them. tions about the NHL program or knows about any Landmark owners or managers with whom I threats to their individual property. In this way, have met have without exception been very coop NHL owners have alerted me to potential threats erative and interested in showing their property. on several occasions. It is certainly easier to They take pride in its unique features and all understand a situation that an owner or manager seemed to enjoy talking about the NHL. describes after having seen the property. Occasionally, they will ask for technical advice for The visits have other benefits as well. They a situation that is of concern to them. One of the help provide a quick response when there is an
CRM N2 9—1997 IP Van Allen Store that will help when preparing my NHL, Clinton, Iowa. comments for annual NHL status Detail. The store was designed by updates. Following a trip, architect Louis another important part of the Sullivan. Photo by visit involves responding to the the author. questions and concerns expressed by the owners. A prompt response reinforces good communications with the NHL owner. As a result of the visits, I believe that NHL owners are also more likely to contact me when they have questions. NHL own ers, themselves, are sometimes approached by people with ques tions about specific NHLs or who would like information about the unusual situation, such as the 1993 flooding in program to determine if their property would be the Midwest. During that tense summer, I tele eligible. NHL owners are able to refer them to me. phoned all the NHL owners in Iowa whose proper There are several benefits to visiting NHLs ties might have been damaged. Because I had which I view as an important part of the NPS's established prior contact with them, I was able to mission. In addition to providing the NHL owner quickly gather information about the extent of the with information about the NHL program and damage. One of the NHL owners needed advice opportunities for assistance, there are intangible about treatment of waterlogged maps and pho benefits of improving communications and dis tographs. The NPS was able to provide it and also playing the importance of the program. Personal able to give the site manager information about contact allows us to directly express our concern emergency financial assistance for dealing with the for some of the nation's most valued cultural damage. resources, whether owned and managed by private The typical trip usually takes me approxi individuals or by public agencies. mately 1,300 miles and I am able to visit between 14 and 16 NHLs. Bill Wilcox is a historian with the Herbert Hoover Few NHLs are located in northeast Iowa, National Historic Site in Iowa. In 1996, he was and there are great distances between some in the awarded a National Historic Landmarks Certificate southern and western parts of the state. NHLs are of Appreciation for his work with NHL owners in located in the very southeast and northwest cor Iowa. ners of the state and near the southwest corner. I make an effort to visit the landmarks that have been listed as threatened and those located farther than an easy drive from my home park. Each trip is something of an adventure. Most of the NHLs in Iowa are eas The Phipps Site NHL in northwest ily reached, but two that I reg Iowa is best ularly visit are accessible only reached by fording by crossing farm fields that a small stream. can be difficult to negotiate in Photo by the wet weather. Under the best author. conditions, one particular property is most easily reached by fording a small stream which is usually about mid-calf to knee deep. During the floods of 1993, however, I was advised to take a different route down a fairly steep, wooded hill to reach the site. During these trips, I find it important to make notes
20 CRM NC 9—1997 Lysa Wegman-French, Linda Cook, and Bill Bolger The NPS Challenge Cost Share Program
unding is a perennial challenge with consistent with planning documents. Following many National Historic Landmarks that vision, the NPS provides a maximum of (NHLs)—a challenge that in the past $30,000 per project. CCSP allows a maximum of the National Park Service (NPS) 50% NPS funding for these projects. The matching staff sympathizeF d with, but had not been able to share contribution may be in the form of cash, address. While national park units may apply to a goods or services, but must be from a non-federal variety of special in-house funds such as the source. Cultural Resource Preservation Program, non- The CCSP funds are allocated to the NPS NPS NHLs do not have access to those funds. regional offices, which select projects within their Until recently, the NPS did not have a vehicle to areas. In addition to the above national require provide direct financial assistance to NHLs that ments, each region usually establishes additional were not owned by the NPS. In fiscal year 1995, criteria to aid in its selection process. These crite the situation changed. That year Abbott Farm, ria impart a regional character to the projects New Jersey, and the Guajome Ranch House, selected. For instance, the Intermountain Region California, became the first NHLs to receive NPS contacts NHLs that are threatened or endangered to announce the availability of the program. The regional criteria emphasize a sense of urgency about saving a resource, the creation of multiple partnerships, and evidence of a well planned pro ject. While the Northeast Region also seeks under takings that will eliminate or alleviate an essential threat, it further seeks innovative approaches that have the possibility of being applied to other sites in the future. The diversity of the NHL projects which have successfully competed for funds illustrates the range of possibilities available to NHL stew ards. Guajome Ranch House NHL, in Vista, California, is one of the best remaining examples of the traditional Spanish-Mexican adobe hacienda with a double courtyard plan. Guajome has often been claimed as the inspiration for Ramona, Helen Hunt Jackson's 1884 novel. The San Diego County Parks and Recreation Guajome Ranch Challenge Cost Share Program (CCSP) funds. A Department acquired Guajome Ranch in 1973 House NHL, San precedent was established for the following year, from the descendants of the Couts family, the orig Diego County, fiscal year 1996, when five additional NHLs inal owners of the ranch. The 1852 adobe ranch California. Photo by received CCSP funds. house was in poor condition, having received little Ann Huston. Although the CCSP has long been a source of maintenance and few improvements over the pre special project funding for national park units, only vious 30 years. Shortly after the County acquired recently have legislation and the criteria been the property, a fire and resulting water damage adjusted so that non-NPS NHLs can compete suc destroyed part of the interior entry hall and a cessfully. Now all NPS programs may apply for sewing room. The County built a temporary roof CCSP funding. over the structure and undertook drainage The goal of the CCSP is to increase aware improvements and temporary stabilization mea ness and participation in the preservation and sures to preserve the building until funds for its improvement of recreational, cultural, and natural restoration could be raised. During that time, the resources. The projects are generally intended to dilapidated property, with its whitewashed adobe be small, able to be completed in one year, and walls, wide verandas, pepper trees and bougainvil-
CRM N2 9—1997 21 acquisition and development of the parcel; and numerous other partners had pledged financial and in-kind assistance. Those partners included government agencies, corporations, foundations, and numerous local businesses and individuals. The Georgetown group has now acquired the cor ner property, rehabilitated the existing building, and opened for business in August 1996. Over 10,000 travelers visited the center during the first month, indicating the need for such a service. During that summer, the number one information request was the sites to visit in the Georgetown- Silver Plume NHL district. When an icon conservator examined the 175 religious icons in the Holy Ascension Russian Orthodox Cathedral NHL in Unalaska, Alaska, the report was disturbing. Eighty-four percent (146) of the church's icons were found to be in a state of lea, exuded the romanticism of its 19th-century Restoring the critical deterioration. The Aleut Church Hangman's "Ramona" period. In 1994, after many years of Building in Virginia Restoration Society is using CCSP funds, along planning, research, and fund-raising, San Diego with the matching share, to assist the Parish City NHL, County began its $1.2 million restoration and seis Montana. Council and Aleut community in conserving 10 of mic reinforcement of the ranch house. The NPS's the church's most deteriorated icons. CCSP contribution of $23,000 paid for the restora tion of the building's historic doors and windows. Using CCSP funding, the Robert E. Lee Association developed a computer software pro The building was re-dedicated with great fanfare gram for the archives of Stratford Hall NHL, the on September 20, 1996, and now features docent- Virginia birthplace of General Lee. The program led tours for schoolchildren and the public, hosts integrates 60 years of architectural, historical and occasional weddings, and will be the site of six archeological research into a single system that scenes from the 1997 "Ramona" pageant, marking provides instant retrieval of cross-referenced data. the players' first appearance in 74 years outside the Ramona Bowl in Hemet, California. The vigilante era and early African-American women's history meet in the "Hangman's Building" In another project, at Abbott Farm NHL, New Interior of the Jersey, the Delaware and Raritan Greenway Hangman's Association used the CCSP funds to produce inter Building in Virginia pretive signage regarding the significant prehistoric City NHL, Montana. resources in the area. The signs raised awareness of the damage caused by looters in recent years. The Brandywine Conservancy recognized the need to protect the 10,000 acre Brandywine Battlefield NHL, Pennsylvania, from a serious Photo by Julia C. threat of development. The Conservancy uses Smith. CCSP funds to offer land use consultations for pri vate property owners who own historic district parcels that are critical to the Landmark. When the corner parcel at the key gateway location to Georgetown, Colorado, became avail able, three partners quickly recognized a golden opportunity. Historic Georgetown, Inc., The Town of Georgetown, and the Clear Creek County Emergency Services District Joined together to acquire the site for a combination visitor center and emergency vehicle center. This project met the criteria established by the NPS Intermountain Region for several reasons: the option to buy would soon expire, thus the funding was needed immediately; an interpretive center was a critical need for the historic district; the Georgetown orga nizations had done extensive planning for both the
22 CRM N2 9—1997 Early I9th Linda Cook is a historian in the NPS Alaska Support Office. Bill Bolger is a historian in the NPS Philadelphia Support Office. Ann Huston, historian in the NPS Pacific Great Basin Support Office, assisted with the preparation of this essay. CRM N2 9—1997 23 Linda Cook A Leap of Faith Preservation with ISTEA Funding (Top right and n the morning of September 15, 1996, below) Church of over 200 people packed the nave and the Holy Ascension small interior chapels of the Holy NHL, Unalaska.AK. Project neoring Ascension Russian Orthodox Church. In 1990 the American Heritage Magazine included completion 1996. The congregatioI n gathered to attend the rare con the church in its dubious list of the year's secration service performed for its new altar fash "Wrecker's Dozen"—those most likely to disappear All photos by Roger ioned from timbers replaced in the rehabilitation over the next decade. Hunter, of the 1895 structure. The ceremony marked the In addition to a leaking roof and rotting International Steel foundation which were allowing water damage to Erectors, completion of Phase I of the rehabilitation of the Anchorage, AK. historic church, which had been seriously deterio the church's irreplaceable icons and furnishings, rating for over 10 years. The the contractors uncovered a structural problem in first church had been con the bell tower that immediately escalated both the structed on the site in 1826 cost and extent of the project beyond anyone's by Father Ioann expectations. Years of water damage and rot had Veniaminov, who later completely destroyed the lower two levels of the became the Metropolitan of bell tower. The exterior redwood siding was all the Russian Orthodox that was holding the tower together. Church in Russia. Because of the NHL status of the Cathedral, Designated a National the State of Alaska Department of Transportation Historic Landmark in 1970, carried most of the cost of the rehabilitation Holy Ascension Russian through a bold commitment of ISTEA preservation Orthodox Cathedral faced a enhancement funding. Strong community and dubious future by the late parish action, scrupulous and skilled contractors 1980s. Severe Aleutian and architects—notably International Steel storms which routinely hurl Erectors, Anchorage, and ECI Architects, 100-mile-per hour winds and Anchorage—and the technical assistance of the damage from neglect during NPS and other state and federal agencies kept the World War II had begun to project on track. In 1996, Phase I of the project take a toll on the aging frame was completed. The local restoration community building. A Condition will continue to raise funds to carp/ out work Assessment of the Cathedral planned for Phase II, to upgrade the Cathedral's Church of the Holy by theNPSin 1986 first heating system, conserve the icons, and rehabili Ascension NHL, called attention to its rapidly-deteriorating condi tate the neighboring Bishop's House. Unalaska.AK.While tion. The church has been listed in the National Thanks to the Aleut Church Restoration re-siding the bell Society and Holy Ascension Parish Council and tower, carpenters Park Service's annual report to Congress on dam realized that the old aged and threatened NHLs every year since 1986. Restoration Committee the Cathedral and its rare boards masked the collection of Russian icons were placed on the real structural prob 1996 World Monument Watch List of 100 most lem—water damage endangered sites worldwide, giving their impor had rotted away the interior construction. tance and condition added recognition. The com Carpenters (l-r) munity's perseverance and hard work have paid Martin Nowka, off through the saving of the Cathedral which is a Roger Hunter, Dave part of our national heritage. Rose, Campbell McLaughlin, and Joe Patrone strung guy Linda Cook is a National Register historian with the wires through the Alaska Support Office, NPS. tower to anchor the top. 24 CRM N2 9—1997 Linda Cook Are We Missing the Boat? Marketing Alaska's National Historic Landmarks Russian bishop's outheast Alaska is a series of islands ship. In 1996, more than 320 cruise ships visited, House NHL, nestled in a long, narrow, mountain bringing some 264,000 passengers. Many of those Baranof Island, AK. ous, and heavily-forested panhan visitors toured the Russian Bishop's House NHL, a This NHL is part of dle. Cruise ships journey from Puget unit of Sitka National Historical Park; many others Sitka Historical SounSd up the Inside passage; after passing British toured one or more of the six additional Sitka-area Park. Photos cour tesy NPS Cultural Columbia, they make stops at various Alaskan NHLs. Local tour companies sell tours on the ships Resource Team, ports. In two Alaska towns, nine National Historic which promote the history and diverse culture of Alaska Support Landmarks (NHLs) and two National Historical the Sitka community. Passengers may reserve tours Office. Parks form a cornerstone of the region's tourism. when booking the cruise or aboard ship. It is esti Visitation to Sitka and Skagway is seasonal and mated that approximately 90% of the package intense. With no roads to link the towns to the tours are booked on board ship. outside world, access is limited to cruise ships, The cruise ship industry also serves Skagway, the Alaska Marine Highway (ferry service), and an 800-person town at the north end of the Inside occasional airline service. The vast majority of Passage. Klondike Gold Rush National Historical visitors come in spurts; hundreds or thousands at Park (KLGO), which is headquartered here, a time have only a few hours includes two NHLs: the Skagway Historic District to visit and experience a and White Pass NHL and the Chilkoot Trail and town's attractions. Dyea Site NHL. In 1996, Skagway received 274 Tourism officials, in cruise ship dockings bringing 277,000 people. Out Southeast Alaska and else of a total of 136,710 visitors to the park in 1996, where, are well aware that his statistics reveal a low of 61 visitors in January to a tory can be big business. The peak of 37,312 in July. Approximately 25% of Travelometer, a quarterly study those view the park film, 20% go on the interpre on travel published by the tive walk through the historic district, and 19% Travel Industry Association, participate in the interpretive talk. surveyed travelers in 1995 and Most cruise ship passengers are unaware of concluded that visiting histori the NPS units or the NHL status of the places they cal places and attending cul visit in Southeast Alaska. The cruise ship industry tural events are two of their provides generic information about destinations. five most popular activities. Tour operators provide enough information to sell St. Michael's Visits to historic sites and cultural events ranked tours. At least one local operator boards the ship Cathedral NHL, ahead of such activities as fishing, casino gam two days prior to landing at Sitka to sell tours. At Sitka. St. Michael's bling, theme park and resort visitation, and cruise that time the tour directors will point out the his is a tourist destination. ship vacations. toric points of interest. Special problems, however, hinder As G. Donald Adams points out in Museum Southeastern Alaska's ability to market its history. News, the notion of Cultural Tourism is not too far A 1994 Alaska Division of Tourism survey revealed that all cruise ship and ferry users visit Southeast Alaska; cruise ship passengers, however, stay for a shorter time than any other type of visitor. A visi tor's first impression of an Alaska town often depends on the way the cruise ship line markets the town's historical and other places of interest. It is essential, therefore, that both towns and the cruise ship industry effectively market the history Coming ashore at which NHLs can offer. Skagwoy a hundred In Sitka, the capital of old Russian America, years ago. more than two-thirds of all visitors arrive by cruise CRM NS 9—1997 25 gers. Sports fishermen, birders, the families of World War II veterans, and groups of ecotourists are high on the list of visitors the city would like to attract. To an ever-increasing degree, the commu nity recognizes the need to draw a common thread among the history that links the three local NHLs, and those further out the chain of islands, in order for visitors to realize the magnitude of history around them. In order to create those links, and to make that history more accessible, a Museum of the Aleutians is planned in Unalaska to address Aleut prehistory and culture. Working with the River and Trails Conservation Association, the city and the Ounalashka Native Corporation hope to intercon nect landmark features, National Register proper afield of what the noted Arthur Frommer thinks ties, and natural history. Realizing that goal, Cruise ships however, will not happen overnight. The first-ever stocked ot the worthwhile travel should be based on in the first dock in Skagway. place—people, learning, and ideas. Adams goes on issue of the Unalaska-Dutch Harbor Visitors to paraphrase Frommer, stating that "travel should Guide—the mainstay of local visitor information— challenge our preconceptions and most cherished was published in 1996, and none of Unalaska's views, cause us to re-think our assumptions, shake NHLs were recognized as either being on the us up a bit and make us more broad minded and National Register or having any national designa understanding."* These are some of the same hopes tion. we share for NHLs. Tourism related to Aleutian NHLs is also tak Both Sitka and Skagway have been receiving ing place on islands west of Unalaska. On Umnak visitors for 100 years or more, and cruise ships Island, 65 miles west of Unalaska, a company have long been a staple of the summertime econ called the Bering Sea Ranches has launched a tour omy. But at Unalaska, an island community of operation that depends on the increase in cruise 4,000 people in the Aleutian Islands of southwest ship trade in the Aleutians. Hoping to attract visi ern Alaska, the cruise ship industry is just begin tors who wish to explore the World War II build ning to emerge. The economy is changing from ings at Fort Glenn National Historic Landmark at primarily fish processing and shipping, and the base of Okmok Volcano, Bering Sea Ranches Unalaska has become a new destination, both for knows that aircraft service to the islands is too large international cruise ships between Russia and unpredictable. With the increase in ship traffic the the United States and the smaller Explorer-style Landmark's resources, which include a USO the ships. A striking increase in the number of cruise ater where Bob Hope entertained troops, are acces ship dockings has occurred in the last year. In years sible; consequently, they take on a new value to past, only a few ships sought harbor at Unalaska in visitors and operators. The Ranch, however, still the summer months; only a few hundred of these overlooks the obvious. The company's 1997 adver passengers visited each year. In 1996, however, tising leaves out one of the most notable feature nine cruise ships docked carrying a total of some about the site—that it too is a National Historic 4,500 passengers. In 1997 the number of visitors is Landmark. expected to increase, with perhaps 15 ships As cultural resource managers, we are miss planned to stop. ing the boat. The cruise ship industry brings thou The community of Unalaska knows and plans sands of visitors to NHLs each year, both in for the arrival of each large ship—especially those Southeast Alaska and the Aleutians. Most visitors, carrying large numbers of passengers. The city's however, do not know that NHLs are an important three NHLs—Sitka Spruce Plantation, Dutch part of their itinerary. To alleviate the problem, Harbor Naval Operating Base and US Army information needs to be provided to information Defenses, and Holy Ascension Russian Orthodox offices which are located on each ship. Additional Church—form the backdrop for local tour bus tours. information needs to be given to the private The City hopes that the newly-designated Aleutian onshore tour operators so they can incorporate it World War II National Historic Area will attract into their group tours. even more visitors. Cruise ship passenger demographics are in The City of Unalaska, and its Visitor and transition; families with children are, to an increas Convention Bureau, are striving to reach new visi ing degree, supplanting the financially-comfortable tors that will stay longer than cruise ship passen retired couples which have traditionally comprised 26 CRM N2 9—1997 the passenger manifests. Families, in contrast to status of these resources. Our ship—literally and senior citizens, are more likely to take inexpensive, figuratively—has come in. We must meet it with informal self-guided tours than to join group tours. information in hand. Families, moreover, are also likely to go either to published standard guidebooks or cruise the Note Internet for specific information. G. Donald Adams, "Cultural Tourism: The Arrival of At present, a search of the Internet showed the Intelligent Traveler," in Museum News, that only the Sitka Convention and Visitors Bureau November/December 1995, Vol 74, No 6, p. 32. references NHLs. Even the NPS park web sites for SITK and KLGO, which do feature historic Linda Cook is a National Register historian with the resources, do not inform the public about the NHL Alaska Support Office, NPS. Linda Cook Landmark Makes Good The Aleutian Historic Area Panoramic view of This is a place where so much of the history Unaiaska and has involved the appropriation of Aleut ¡and and Dutch Harbor. Most of the significant waters and the submergence of Aleut culture World War II beneath waves of European and American influ years the islands have been the crossroads of resources remain ence—economically, politically, and militarily. Russian exploration and American enterprise. on the uplands. —Ray Hudson,former teacher in Unaiaska, During the 1940s, the events of World War II Development local historian, and artist, letter dated 9/28/91. crowds the coastal transformed the Aleutians into a military theatre. areas. Courtesy Caught in the middle of the wartime build-up, the NPS. he Aleutian Islands are a thin arc of Aleut lost many of their traditional villages and rugged mountainous islands that churches and suffered immeasurable losses to cut across the Bering Sea. On a their culture and heritage. Tmap the islands look like a child's The Aleutian Campaign in the War in the game of "attach the dots." The chain of islands Pacific during World War II—known as the extends for over 1,000 miles from the edge of the Forgotten War—dramatically touched the lives of Alaska mainland to within a couple hundred tens of thousands of American, Canadian, and miles of the eastern Siberian coast of Russia. The Japanese military and civilians in the early 1940s. Alaska map cour Native Aleut1 have occupied the islands for at tesy Linda Cook. The bombing of Dutch Harbor on Unaiaska in least 10,000 years. For the last several hundred 1942, the Battle of Attu, and the invasion of Kiska Island in 1943 were the crucial events of the Campaign, an offshoot of the Battle of Midway and the larger War in the Pacific. During this Campaign, the Native village of Attu was captured and destroyed. These events forced the relocation and internment of over 800 Aleut for the duration of the war, leading to the death of nearly 80 Aleut leaders and elders. This unheralded loss devas tated Aleut culture and demographics in the Aleutians for years following the war. In 1969 Brian Garfield wrote in The Thousand-Mile War, The Aleutians have not changed in the twenty-five years since their forgotten war was fought. Rusting relics of battle still litter Attu's mountainsides. Giant B-29 hangars CRM Nü 9—1997 27 Elephant magazine islands. During the war, Ulakta at Aleutian World Head formed the king pin of the War II National defensive Iron Ring across Historic Area. Courtesy NPS. Unalaska Bay. The site is within the boundaries of the Dutch Harbor Naval Operating Base and Fort Mears, U.S. Army National Historic Landmark (des ignated in 1987) and retains very high integrity as a nationally-sig nificant cultural landscape. Establishment of the new area represents an opportunity to preserve and protect Aleutian resources in alliance with the tra ditional residents and managers of the land. The land is owned by and a huge hospital are crumbling into ruin the Ounalashka Corporation (OC), the Native vil on Shemya. Half-collapsed World War II lage corporation in Unalaska, and lies within the quonset huts can be seen on the hills of municipal limits of the City of Unalaska. OC will Adak. The Navy has authorized the sale of administer, manage, and operate the site as a "his 5,253 acres of surplus property at the former 2 toric area" with NPS technical assistance. NPS naval base at Dutch Harbor. recognizes the property as an area affiliated with By 1996, the Aleutians changed considerably. the national heritage represented in the national Environmental cleanup and remediation, develop park system. ment, vandalism, base closures, new technology, The NPS affiliated areas comprise a variety erosion, weather, and time had put the area's of locations in the United States and Canada that World War II resources in an ever growing state of preserve significant properties in association with deterioration. the national park system. They each draw on tech No longer so remote in the eyes of the world nical or financial aid from the NPS. In 1995, there (though still protected by the challenge of were 23 properties affiliated with the NPS, includ weather), the Aleutian Islands represent a unparal ing Roosevelt Campobello International Park, leled opportunity for interpretation and preserva Benjamin Franklin National Memorial, Pinelands tion of both cultural and natural wonders. The National Reserve, and Ice Age National Scientific Omnibus Parks and Public Lands Management Act Reserve. Like landmarks, affiliated areas must be of 1996 takes a first step in telling the story of the deemed nationally significant. Aleut, the Aleutians, and World War II. The Act A total of five National Historic Landmarks Coastal defenses, designates an 81-acre parcel of land at Ulatka ammunition sheds in the Aleutian Islands commemorate the events of Head, Unalaska, an "Aleutian World War II the Aleutian Campaign; four others have Russian and panamá gun National Historic Area." In both prehistoric and mounts at and archeological significance. The Aleutian World Unalaska. Courtesy historic times this point of land has been a natural War II National Historic Area is but one corner NPS. view point to scan the harbor entrance to the stone in recognizing and preserving resources in the Aleutians. Federal and state lands at the other landmark sites contribute to the interpretation and resource base that has just begun to be defined at Unalaska. Notes 1 The Unagnan is the preferred traditional name for the native people of Unalaska. 2 Brian Garfield, The Thousand-Mile War. World War ¡l in Alaska and the Aleutians. Fairbanks, Alaska: Classic Reprint Series, p. 306. Linda Cook is a National Register historian with the Alaska Support Office, NPS. 28 CRM 1^9—1997 Christine Whitacre Small Town, Grand Plans The Silverton, Colorado, NHL he number of people living within a remained mining-based until 1992, when the National Historic Landmark (NHL) Mayflower Mill closed. district apparently has little to do Unlike Aspen and Telluride, which may now with its success. Last year, the NHL be better known for their snow conditions than districTt of Silverton, Colorado (population 720) their mining history, Silverton does not have a ski received $400,000 in preservation funds from the industry. It also does not have gaming, like the state, $24,000 from the National Park Service NHL Colorado mining towns of Cripple Creek, (NPS), $120,000 from a local mining company, Black Hawk, and Central City. Insulated from and $60,000 from the "Friends of the San Juan these development pressures, Silverton has Skyway." Also within the last year, the San Juan retained a high degree of historic integrity, and County Historical Society— Silverton Historic Silverton's only preservation Distria NHL, San group—took ownership of the Juan County, CO. historic Mayflower Mill, as Silverton Town Hall, with its distinaive part of a multi-million dollar silver-domed bell land donation. The NHL also tower, is on the completed a district boundary town's main street. study and the $1.9 million Destroyed by fire in restoration of its fire-damaged 1992, the building was restored by the town hall, the latter project Town of Silverton garnering awards from the and the San Juan National Trust for Historic County Historical Preservation, Colorado Society. Photo by Roger Whitacre, Preservation, Inc., and the June 1996. NPS. This would be a lofty list of accomplishments for any preservation group. The fact that the San Juan County Historical Society has no paid staff, and less than 300 members—only 80 of looks ver/ much as it did during its mining hey whom live in town—make these accomplishments day. even more impressive. Silverton is also in one of The San Juan County Historical Society's Colorado's least populated areas, a mountainous first project was a museum. In 1965, the society region so remote that the town was inaccessible leased the town's historic jail (at one dollar a year for nearly a week last winter when snow slides for 99 years), and transformed the building into a closed the single highway leading into it. How do museum. Next, the society acquired the town's two they do it? One society member says simply: historic railroad depots. The Durango-Silverton "Somebody has to be there to preserve things." It's Narrow Gauge Railroad, which connects the towns that attitude that has characterized the San Juan of Durango and Silverton, was also designated as County Historical Society since its inception. a NHL in 1961. In 1966, the Denver & Rio The historical society began in 1965, four Grande Western (D6VRGW)—which then owned years after Silverton became a NHL. Silverton was the railroad—closed its Silverton depot. When the founded in 1874, following the discovery of silver D&RGW then announced plans to demolish the in the San Juan Mountains. The area was also rich depot, the San Juan County Historical Society in gold, lead, and copper, and Silverton soon asked if they could have the building. Soon there became the center of the extensive "San Juan after, the Silverton Northern Railroad depot was Triangle" mining district. Silverton's economy also donated to the society. CRM N2 9—1997 20 "Here we were, with two railroad depots, inception. The society hired a Durango architect to and no uses for them," recalls one society member. design a new building that was compatible with Making matters worse, the D&RGW depot was the NHL district, with plenty of input from histori bombed in 1975. (The bomber was never identi cal society board members. Remarkably, according fied, although many suspect it was a disgruntled to board member Beverly Rich, "there was not a railroad employee.) No one was injured, but one single disagreement throughout that whole end of the building was destroyed. process—even down to the paint color and the Retrospectively, San Juan County Historical design of the drawer pulls." Society board member Fritz Klinke sees the dyna That level of cooperation extended to the miting of the depot as a catalyst. "It made us ask archive's construction, as board members rolled up ourselves if we were really serious about preserv their sleeves and did much of the finish work. ing buildings," says Klinke. The Society accepted Even the operation of the archive remains an all- the challenge, and repaired the depot. The Society volunteer effort, as board member Allen Nossamon then resorted to a creative "rent credit" plan that donates his time as the archivist. Completed in allowed tenants to move into the two depots rent- 1993, the archive is also the headquarters of the free in exchange for preserving the buildings. San Juan County Historical Society. In 1981, D&RGW sold its Durango-Silverton On November 30, 1992, just as the archive route to Charles Bradshaw, who restored regular was nearing completion, disaster struck when passenger service on the line. As a result, the Silverton's historic town hall was devastated by newly formed Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge fire, triggered by a newly installed heating unit Line needed a depot. Bradshaw leased the depot designed to melt snow on the roof. The building from the Society, and eventually purchased it for was so badly damaged that town officials consid $50,000. "It's probably the only depot that was ered razing it, but the historical society lobbied for purchased back by a railroad," says Klinke. Soon its preservation. thereafter, the society sold the Silverton Northern A 1990 NHL Condition Assessment Report depot for $45,000. (The society maintains exterior prepared by the NPS Rocky Mountain Region— and interior covenants on both depots.) "The which highlighted the building's architectural and depots launched us into the business of real estate historical importance—also persuaded town offi cials to restore rather than Silverton Historic raze the landmark. Indeed, District NHL, San Silverton Town Hall now ¡uan County, CO. In serves as a national model for June 1996, Sunnyside Cold restoration projects. In the Company handed aftermath of the fire, while the over the keys for embers were still hot, towns the Mayflower Mill people carefully preserved to the San Juan every salvageable building ele County Historical Society. Befitting ment: metal ceiling panels, Silverton's small woodwork, light fixtures, and town atmosphere, decorative plasterwork. What the ceremony was couldn't be salvaged was stud held in the park, with music pro ied, analyzed, and replicated. vided by the town's "We did the bulk of the brass band. Photo restoration work with locals, by Roger Whitacre, but whenever we needed June 1996. expertise we sought out the best," says Klinke. Town offi acquisition," says Klinke, "and gave us the cash to cials, society members, and the building contractor do other projects." Klinke believes the depot attended national restoration conferences and con acquisitions also gave the society the knowledge, sulted with experts. Specialists from Colorado experience, and confidence to take on new pro State University's Center for the Stabilization and jects. Reuse of Important Structures lent technical exper With the $95,000 from the depot sales, the tise. Conservators who worked on Mount Vernon San Juan County Historical Society moved onto its and other NPS projects were consulted on the next venture: an archive. The preservation of plasterwork restoration, and a New York-based Silverton's historic photographs, papers, and man consultant analyzed the building's stonework for uscripts, then stored in the basement of the town the repair of the fire-damaged north wall. library, had been a dream of the society since its 30 CRM NO 9—1997 The Silverton Town Hall project made it eas The historical society received an additional ier for the NHL to gain additional funding. $60,000 for its mill tour program via the "Organizations that give money always look at a Intermodal Surface Transportation Efficiency Act community's track record," notes Klinke. "They (ISTEA). In 1997, the "Friends of the San Juan look to see if you've done what you said you were Skyway"—a region-wide, non-profit group that going to do. And they also look to see if you did it includes Silverton—received a $500,000 ISTEA in a satisfactory manner, following Secretary of the grant to interpret that scenic route. Of that award, Interior's guidelines." Apparently, the State of $60,000 was earmarked for the Mayflower Mill. Colorado found the Town Hall restoration to be "The more successful we've gotten, the more more than "satisfactory." In 1997, the state's his people support us," says Rich. As an example, a former Silverton resident presented This house in Silverton Historic the society with an endow District NHL dis ment that has now grown to plays the pride of $40,000 and is used to main its builder despite tain the town cemetery. The the town's isolation. historical society is also not Photo by Russell shy about asking for help. Lee. Reproduced from the collection Two years ago, the society of the Library of asked NPS for help to expand Congress. the district boundaries to include the cemetery and the Mayflower Mill. Working under the supervision of the Rocky Mountain Support Office, graduate student Dawn Bunyak prepared a nomina tion that expanded the National Register boundaries. Following the preparation of a national context for 20th-cen tury milling operations, the toric preservation fund awarded the NHL NHL boundaries may also be expanded. $400,000 for additional restoration work. The What future preservation projects are in innovative techniques used to repair town hall's store? "Most of our projects began with idle con north wall will now be used on the remaining versation that turned into a 'What if?'" says three walls which, over time, have been damaged Klinke. Among the "What if's" now being dis by weather, acid rain, and coal smoke. A 1997 cussed is a plan to extend the railroad line to the NPS Challenge Cost Share grant will also go Mayflower Mill. Society volunteers are also seek toward the building project. ing tenants for the other historic buildings In 1996, the San Juan County Historical included in the Mayflower Mill land transfer. The Society took on its biggest project yet: the society also wants to convert a historic boarding Mayflower Mill. Since 1929, the Mayflower Mill house into a mining museum. The San Juan had been the economic mainstay of the commu County Historical Society has been collecting his nity, and its 1992 closure raised concerns about toric mining equipment for over 30 years. "We the future of the historic mill buildings. Through a now have one of the premier mining collections in complicated land transfer that required the the world," says Rich, "and we need a place to approval of the Environmental Protection Agency, showcase it." Based on its track record, Silverton the Sunnyside Gold Company donated the mill will probably turn all of these plans into reality. and 80 acres of land to the historical society. "The stereotype of small town historical societies is a Christine Whitacre is a historian with the Rocky bunch of 'little old ladies' collecting quilts," says Mountain Support Office, NPS. one board member. "We collect industrial build ings." In June 1997, the society began offering daily tours of the mill, and Sunnyside Gold Company provided $120,000 to help build that interpretive program. CRM N2 9—1997 31 Catherine Colby are now National Historic Landmarks, including the Cherokee National Capitol, Murrell House, Creek National Capitol, and the Wheelock Academy, near Millerton, in the southeast corner Wheelock Academy of the state. Survival of the buildings remaining at this highly significant site is a real concern. Over Model for the Indian Territory the past decade the National Register Programs offices of the NPS in Denver, Colorado (and now in Santa Fe, New Mexico) have provided technical klahoma is now home to the assistance to owners of nationally-significant largest American Indian popula structures. The Wheelock Academy is the most tion in the country. In a single recent to have a Condition Assessment Report, Odecade, beginning in 1830, the scheduled to be completed this year. A Condition federal relocation policy brought approximately Assessment Report is prepared by preservation 100,000 American Indians from every direction professionals. It identifies work needed to pre into the Indian Territory. In the period between serve the structure, prioritized on the basis of their arrival and formation of the state in 1907, their importance to the character of the structure those who survived the trek from the southeast and their condition. Cost estimates are also pro established their tribal institutions in the new vided. These reports can serve to guide planning territory. They were called the Five Civilized and preservation work, and can be used as a tool Tribes: the Cherokee, Creek, Seminole, for fundraising. Chickasaw, and Choctaw. History The first constitution written and adopted Among the earliest of the tribes to be relo within the limits of Oklahoma was that of the cated to Indian Territory were several groups of Choctaw Nation in June of 1834.1 Their govern Choctaws. All of the Five Civilized Tribes were ing, judicial, and educational systems were effec already well known for their concern for educa tive for over 70 years. Control of Choctaw tion. In 1820, the Choctaw Council had voted to educational institutions and policy passed into use all Government annuities to support their federal hands with statehood in 1906. It was Chief schools. Around 1840, a Union agent stated that Allen Wright who suggested the name, "Okla "in no community does the education of the young Homma" for the new state. Freely translated from men and women receive greater encouragement the Choctaw, it means: home of the red people. than among the five tribes."2 These schools were Several structural reminders of this histori paid for and controlled by the tribal council, and cally-significant era of American Indian history there were 12 neighborhood schools in operation in the Choctaw Nation by Wheelock 1838. Academy NHL, Built around 1832, the McCurtain County, Wheelock Academy was one OK. Old seminary building. Courtesy of the earliest schools. It set NPS. the precedent for over 30 academies and seminaries maintained in Indian Territory. By 1839, the influx of board ing students was so great that a large, two story frame dormi tory was added to the campus. Begun as a mission school for girls, it was selected in 1842 to become the first Choctaw National Academy. The school was named after Eleazar Wheelock, founder of Moor's Indian School, later to become known as Dartmouth College. Wheelock Academy was liberally endowed, attracted qualified teachers, and had a reputation for high academic 32 CRM NB 9—1997 The NHL Condition Assessment As part of its initiative to assist National Historic Landmark owners, and as funding per mits, the NPS provides technical preservation assistance. The NPS is providing a condition assessment of the Wheelock Academy to help the owners plan for the preservation of the structure. A condition assessment begins with an in-depth site inspection. Based on this is an analysis of the physical condition of the building, and identifica tion of the specific work needed to preserve it. The various types of treatments are listed in order of priority, along with rough cost estimates for carry ing out the work. The comprehensive field inspec tion is conducted by a team of historical architects, who provide documentation in the form of photographs, a site plan sketch, and floor plans. They also describe the history and signifi cance of the site along with the recommendations for preservation or rehabilitation. This information assists owners in determining what treatments will have the least impact upon those historic qualities Map of Oklahoma excellence. Its curriculum included natural philos which led to the building's designation as an showing the Indian ophy, algebra, astronomy, history, Greek, and National Historic Landmark. Territory in 1876, Latin. It provided "a judicious blend of cultural with the location uplift and practical skills."3 In 1932, Wheelock Because it is now vacant, the treatments to oftheWheelock became a regular U.S. Indian School. Writing in be recommended for the Old Seminary Building Academy added. will result in its protection from the effects of Map by Catherine the early 1950s, Muriel Wright stated that orphans weather and vandalism. The optimal treatment, Colby, after Atlas and underprivileged Choctaw children were being however would be the determination of a new use of the North sent to one or another of the several remaining American Indian and rehabilitation of this important representative Indian schools in eastern Oklahoma, including by Carl Waldman, of American history. illustrated by Molly Wheelock Academy for girls and Jones Academy 4 Wilma Rogers, the Director of Tribal Braun. (Facts on for boys. Finally, in 1955, after 123 years of ser File, New York, vice, the Wheelock campus closed when the Development, is working with representatives of 1985). school merged with the nearby Jones Academy. the Oklahoma Historical Society and the NPS to Today, approximately 90% of Choctaw children find a new use for the campus. This compound of buildings complete with a lake deserves not just attend public schools. physical preservation but reuse as a home to The Old Seminary Building Architecture lively activity benefitting the Choctaw Nation. The original campus was all but destroyed by fire in 1869. The rebuilding process between Notes 1880 and 1884 resulted in 17 buildings on the 1 approximately 15 acre site. Besides the school and Muriel H. Wright. A Guide to the Indian Tribes of dormitory buildings, others included a new clinic, Oklahoma, vol. 33, Civilization of the American barn, office, laundry and utility buildings. But of Indian Series (Norman and London: University of the 16 buildings extant in 1974, only six remained Oklahoma Press, 1951; ninth edition, 1986), p. 101. four years later. 2 The Old Seminary Building was the first Rennard Strickland. Indians of Oklahoma, structure to be built after the fire. It is a two-story Newcomers to a New Land Series (Norman and wood frame structure. Irregularly shaped, it has a London University of Oklahoma Press: 1980, fourth printing, 1989), p. 44. metal hipped roof with pairs of brackets at eaves, 3 and clapboard siding. A rectangular bell tower Joseph Scott Mendinghall, "Wheelock Academy, with a pyramidal roof rises from the south side of Millerton, Oklahoma," National Register of Historic Places Nomination, September 10, 1978. the roof. The evenly spaced windows are two-over- 4 two wood double-hung sash. At the south side is a Wright, op. cit., p. 17. two-story porch added in the 1940s, which is in poor condition. The porch remains open on the Catherine Colby is an historian with the Southwest ground floor, although the upper floor has been Support Office, NPS. enclosed. CRM Nü 9—1997 33 Mark R. Barnes The National Historic Landmarks Initiative in the Southeast Region he National Register Programs for this nationally-significant Late Mississippian Division in the National Park fortified mound complex reflected the latest infor Service's Southeast Regional Office mation on the scientific interpretation of the site's T(SERO) in Atlanta, Georgia, is significance. While the boundary study was being responsible for the National Historic Landmarks completed, SERO developed a partnership with (NHL) program in the Southeastern United States The Archeological Conservancy (TAC), a non-profit and the American possessions in the Caribbean. organization dedicated to the preservation of sig From the early 1980s until 1988, SERO's primary nificant archeological sites through acquisition. involvement with NHLs was limited to working TAC began the process of acquiring the Parkin Site with the National Register of Historic Places in from over 60 landowners as a prelude to the State Washington, DC, to develop boundaries for NHLs of Arkansas developing the site as a state park. designated before 1966. Today, the Parkin Site is preserved. The public can NHLs designated by the Secretan/ of the visit the site and its outstanding interpretive Interior prior to the passage of the 1966 National museum and the State of Arkansas is sponsoring Historic Preservation Act became the first proper an on-going scientific research program at the site. ties listed in the National Register. Some of these As the National Register Programs Division nationally-significant properties, however, did not was completing its assignment in developing have boundaries, which made the application of boundaries for older Southeast NHLs, it became the Section 106 process and even grants-in-aid dif apparent that archeological resources—both pre ficult. By 1993, documenta tion for all of the NHL Caguona Site NHL, near Utuado, PR. boundary studies in the This is the central Southeast had been com plaza of the pleted. The boundary studies Caguana Site, the for five archeological sites— largest ceremonial Taino complex in Parkin Indian Mound, in the West Indies, Arkansas; Holly Bluff and containing 10 ball Grand Village of the Natchez, courts. in Mississippi, and Marksville and Poverty Point, in Louisiana—involved site vis its, which were the first time Photos by the many of these sites had been author. inspected by a representative of NPS in over two decades. Such inspections proved important not only in develop ing boundaries, but also in gathering up-to-date docu mentation on the significance of the sites, clarify historic and historic—were not adequately repre ing threats to the sites, and developing sented in the listing of NHLs for the Southeast preservation programs with preservation partners. Region. In fact, since the archeological NHL theme For example, the Parkin Indian Mound Site studies completed over a quarter of a century ago in Arkansas had for a number of years been listed as part of the NPS Mission 66 Program, only as a Priority 1 Endangered NHL in the annual about half a dozen additional archeological sites Section 8 Report to Congress, and it was even pro had been added to the NHL list nationwide. posed to de-designate the property as a NHL due SERO's boundary studies found there was sub to threats from a housing development. The NHL stantial interest in the development of new prehis boundary study (completed in 1989 by this office) toric and historic archeological NHLs among 34 CRM N2 9—1997 federal and state agencies, the State Historic The 18th-century Spanish colonial mission Preservation Offices (SHPOs), the archeological site of Guevavi in southern Arizona was desig and historical academic community, and preserva nated a NHL in 1990. This Spanish colonial Jesuit tion organizations. mission site was studied by SERO because of spe These groups sent to SERO documentation cialized staff expertise in the archeology and his on a variety of archeological resources they tory of the area. The request for SERO's assistance believed met the NHL criteria. Some of the sites came from the Associate Director for Cultural recommended for NHL designation were sites pre Resources and was prompted by Congressional viously identified as potentially nationally signifi interest in adding this property as an outlier to cant in the Mission 66 theme studies of a quarter Tumacacori National Monument. TAC acquired century ago, but were never nominated. Other the Guevavi Site and the property is now owned NHL recommendations consisted of significant by NPS. The result of this interest was a 100% sites found within the last 20 Jaketown Site, years and came from historic Humphreys contexts in state plans created by County, MS.The the SHPO offices. In response to Jaketown Site is a this interest the National Register Poverty Point cul Programs Division developed a ture site (c. 1,000 BQ. process to quickly evaluate the potential of a property to meet the NHL criteria (prior to initiat ing a NHL study) in conjunction with the History Division, in Washington. This preliminary assessment approach proved effective and efficient in develop ing nominations for a dozen indi vidual archeological properties, and the first Multiple Property NHL (Green River Shell Middens Archeological District in Kentucky) in less than increase in the number of archeological NHLs in three years. the Southeast Region by 1990. These special studies allowed SERO to initi However, the National Register Programs ate NHL nominations with preservation partners Division realized that while special study NHLs serving as the main authors, and implement had been successful, what was needed was a the preservation options with these same groups. For matic NHL study of the southeast region to example, the 18th-century Spanish colonial site of develop a sound comparative approach to the Los Adaes Presidio, located near Natchitoches, development of NHLs. In 1991, this office under Louisiana, was designated in June of 1983. Its took a Historic Sites Survey of Historic Native boundary was enlarged in November of 1993, due American and Colonial Resources in the Southeast to the finding of new associated archeological sites. Region. Information for this theme study was In 1996, the Louisiana State Parks used the derived from the original Mission 66 theme stud boundary enlargement to acquire additional lands ies, consultation with federal and state agencies, at the site for future public interpretation. anthropology departments, and state planning doc TAC acquired the Menard-Hodges Mounds uments. Over 300 historic Native American and Site in Arkansas as an archeological preserve. Colonial sites were considered in the theme study. Designation of this 17th-century Quapaw site on Through the efforts of SERO and its preservation the Arkansas River assisted the Conservancy in partners, over three dozen historic sites have been raising funds for acquisition. The Conservancy is designated or are presently under development for currently fencing the site and working with the the NPS by professional archeologists and histori state to develop a preservation master plan. ans who participated in the review of the historic The Hardaway Site, a major Paleo-Indian sites theme study and expressed an interest in stone tool manufacturing site owned by the ALCOA working with NPS to develop the nominations. Company, was designated an NHL in June of 1990. Historic Native American sites designated by National recognition has created a program of site the Secretary of the Interior as NHLs through this protection by the ALCOA Company and a commit theme study include Bottle Creek Mounds Site, ment by the company to enter into a preservation Alabama (designated April 1994); Yuchi Town program with the North Carolina SHPO. Site, Alabama (designated June 1996); Eaker Site, CRM N2 9—1997 35 Arkansas (designated June 1996); Dancing Rabbit a small number of properties with standing ruins Creek Treaty Site, Mississippi (designated June or structures. This effort also has served to correct 1996); Caguana Site, Puerto Rico (designated problems observed in some SHPO programs in November 1994); and Chucalissa Site, Tennessee regard to the National Register during State (designated June 1994). Historic colonial or early Program Review. For example, when it was noted American sites designated as NHLs through this both the Puerto Rican and Virgin Island offices theme study include Fort Mose, Florida (desig had experienced problems with nominations to the nated October 1994); the shipwreck site of the National Register, SERO began working with these Maple Leaf, Florida (designated October 1994); offices to identify about a dozen potentially Fort Boonesborough, Kentucky (designated June nationally-significant properties. SERO then made 1996); Caparra Site, Puerto Rico (designated April a multi-year technical assistance commitment to 1994); and Skytsborg (Blackbeard's Castle), United work with these offices to develop NHL nomina States, Virgin Islands (designated October 1994). tions, which the state offices then first submitted Future American Indian NHLs from this his to the National Register to gain valuable training toric sites theme study are under development for in the production of Register nominations. Creek, Calusa, Apalachee, Shawnee, and Timucua This effort has resulted in the revision and culture sites. Numerous nominations of Spanish, computerization of nearly all of the existing NHLs French, English, and Danish colonial sites are in the Caribbean and the development of a dozen being prepared, along with sites associated with new NHL nominations. SERO is now commencing Moravians, African-American history, coffee and a new program of technical assistance to these sugar plantations, shipwrecks, colonial warfare, offices. For example, the Caguana Site, located in and pirates. the central mountains of Puerto Rico, near The on-going success of the above theme Utuado, was first identified in a Mission 66 theme study encouraged SERO to undertake two other study as a potential NHL. SERO worked with the landmark survey initiatives—Civil War Battlefields Puerto Rican office to develop a NHL nomination and Prehistoric Archeology Sites. The Civil War for Caguana, which is the largest ceremonial ball Battlefield survey identified approximately 130 court complex in the entire West Indies. The prop potentially-significant battlefields in the Southeast, erty was listed in the National Register (using the and resulted in the NHL designation or enlarge NHL nomination documentation) in 1991 and des ment of NHL boundaries for seven battlefields— ignated a NHL in 1994. SERO is now working on Corinth, Port Gibson, and Brices Crossroads, in a National Register multiple property nomination Mississippi; Middle Creek, Perryville, and Mill for the ball court sites in Puerto Rico and the Springs, in Kentucky; and Bentonville, in North Virgin Islands, with both state offices. This nomi Carolina. Many of these nationally-significant bat nation will also serve to identify other potential tlefields have benefitted, in the 1990s, from the NHL ball court sites in the American possessions American Battlefield Protection Program, ISTEA, in the Caribbean. SERO is also working with the Civil War Trust, and the Historic Preservation Puerto Rican office to complete a National Fund grants-in-aid, for acquisition and preserva Register multiple property nomination for tion planning. resources associated with the Spanish-American In conjunction with the National Register War on that island, as a special centennial study, Programs Division of SERO, the 11 Southeastern using a student intern from the Historic SHPO offices and over 150 professional archeolo- Preservation Program at Georgia State University. gists worked on a new NHL study for prehistoric The technical assistance provided by SERO archeological sites. The national theme study for to state offices is beginning to develop interest pre-historic archeological sites is currently in from them in undertaking NHL studies for non- progress. SERO has a preliminary list of some 50 archeological properties. For example, the properties that are presently under consideration National Register Programs Division worked with for NHL nomination. Priorities are currently being the City of Augusta, Georgia on a NHL nomination established for completion of individual and multi for the Old Medical College of Georgia Building, ple property NHL nominations for future presenta which was designated an NHL in 1996, for the tion to the Secretary's Advisory Board. Important national role of the medical college in the training "spin offs" from the above are commitments from of medical students in the 19th century. This office state and federal agencies and scholars to under is also working with the Virgin Islands SHPO and take specific NHL studies. They will initiate the the rabbi of St. Thomas Synagogue, in Charlotte drafts and SERO will review them for continuity. Amalie, on St. Thomas, to develop a NHL nomina Although the NHL initiative of SERO was tion for the second oldest and longest in continu originally intended to be an archeological initia ous use synagogue under United States authority. tive, the historic period theme study also included 36 CRM m 9—1997 threatening the integrity of the historic district. As currently written, the nomination does not provide decision makers with the information necessary to make coherent decisions about new development. SCAD's involvement has made possible the survey of one of the largest architectural NHL districts in the United States. SCAD students will be assisting the NPS in the development of the revised NHL study following completion of survey of the dis trict. Similarly, the National Register Programs Division is also re-studying the St. Augustine Town Plan Historic District with the St. Augustine Preservation Board. This new study has identified almost twice as many pre-1821 colonial structures within the district, and several significant colonial sites in and around the district, were as identified Casa Cautiño, in The interest in the NHL program that exists in the original 1970 NHL study. Guayama, PR. This in our region extends beyond the commemoration The original intent of SERO's NHL efforts, to building was the of nationally-significant properties. SERO and the establish boundaries for existing NHLs, was com headquarters General Fred Grant SHPOs are actively using the Section 8 Annual pleted, but this activity generated a positive inter during the occupa Report to Congress to identify existing NHLs est on the part of preservation partners in working tion of the island in requiring improved documentation. This office has with NPS to establish new NHLs. From this, the the Spanish developed a centralized slide file for Southeast National Register Programs Division undertook a American War. NHLs. As part of this effort, we are also develop number of theme studies leading to revised arche- Casa Cautiño is part of a proposed ing a computerized "needs sheet" for all the ological and a large number of new Civil War and NHL Southeast NHLs. Each sheet contains the location archeological site NHLs. Recently, this effort was of NHLs, the address of the owner/contact, endan- extended to revising and creating new NHLs for germent status of the property, when it was desig architectural properties. nated an NHL, whether it has received a bronze Throughout all of this effort, this office's goal plaque, when it was last visited, the NHL's theme has been to refine the data available on Southeast and significance, and photographic information. cultural resources to assist in the identification of An important "need" identified in the above potential new NHLs, or revise the data for older effort is to update and computerize a number of NHLs. Evaluation of potential NHLs using the Southeast NHL studies. This office believes it is NHL criteria and thematic framework is equally very important to be able to have these NHLs important in the identification process, leading to computerized for rapid reproduction of the nomi the completion of nominations through the cooper nation, and as a means of keeping the nomina ation of preservation partners. The last element of tions up to date. For example, the Columbus the National Register Programs Division's NHL Landing Site (Salt River Bay), USVI; Stallings initiative is to provide the appropriate type of Island, Georgia; and Okeechobee Battlefield, technical assistance to the owners of NHL proper Florida are being updated by this office in con ties. The determination of which properties to pro junction with the appropriate SHPOs, which may vide technical assistance can come from require boundary or significance adjustments. All information gathered for the Section 8 Report to of these properties are currently listed as threat Congress, contact with the NHL owners or SHPO ened or endangered in the annual Report to offices, or through site inspections. The NHL Congress. Initiative of the Southeast Region's National In the Southeast, historic districts tend to be Register Programs Division has been directly frequently listed as endangered NHLs primarily responsible for the increased number of NHLs and because of the lack of appropriate documentation reduction of endangered and threatened NHLs in needed for Section 106 decision-making. this region, and permitted our preservation part Currently, the SERO National Register Programs ners to play an important role in all of the aspects Division and the Savannah College of Art and of this initiative. Design (SCAD) are completing a four-year survey effort of all the buildings in the Savannah Historic Mark R. Barnes is an archeologist with the Southeast District. The popularity of Savannah as a tourist Regional Office, NPS. mecca is resulting in a number of new develop ments, along with federal projects, which are CRM N2 9—1997 37 Leo Barker The Presidio Within the Presidio Historical Archeology in a NHL or years San Francisco has cele Designed to defend Spain's territory, the brated its birthday on June 29 inside Presidio community struggled to fulfill its role the walls of the Officers' Club at the while also facing constant challenges presented by F Presidio of San Francisco. Believed the environment. Historical documents suggest to be the last remnant of the Spanish presidio or that El Presidio was in an almost constant state of fort built over 220 years ago, the Club has always disrepair, reconstruction, and collapse. By 1792, been an icon of San Francisco's history. Visitors El Presidio was described as a quadrangle of pal have paused to reflect on that history while peer isade, adobe, and stone buildings about 106 by ing at the eroded adobe wall visible through a 110 yards, with no buildings on the eastern side. tiny window in the Club's Moraga Hall. But in all The construction and layout of El Presidio remains that time, few guests have realized that the his enigmatic after this date. tory of this site's earliest days lay just below their When the United States seized Alta feet. California in 1846, much of El Presidio lay in El Presidio de San Francisco [El Presidio] ruins. U.S. troops used intact adobe buildings as a was the northernmost outpost of the Spanish headquarters and barracks from the 1850s until Empire in North America. It was established under the 1906 earthquake. In fact, El Presidio's central orders of Captain Juan Bautista de Anza on July plaza remained the main parade ground until the 26, 1776, by Jose Joaquin Moraga with about 200 Post was redesigned in the late 1890s. The land soldiers, settlers, and their families. El Presidio scape of the Spanish colonial period remains was as much a community as a fort, with families today in the parking area demarked by Pershing of mixed indigenous Mexican, African, and Square, Moraga Avenue and the Officers Club, and Spanish descent from throughout the northern the southern half of the Funston Avenue Officers frontier of New Spain (present day Mexico). As a Quarters. strategic military settlement, it A view of the eventually governed and pro Spanish Presidio vided security from the archeological site Sonoma/Mendocino frontier to during the 1996 the Monterey Bay, and from forti test trenching to verify results of fications at the Golden Gate ground penetrating Straits to the wild hinterlands of radar work. The the Central Valley, including building on the seven Franciscan Missions and right is the Officers' Club.The entire two civil settlements, all before parking area is 1846. part of the original El Presidio was built as a central plaza of the quadrangle about 85 yards on a Spanish Presidio, side. Surrounded by a palisade, and also the main parade ground dur the complex was built by a squad ing the American of 20 sailors and two carpenters period until the who focussed their energy on 1890s. three key structures: the com mandant's quarters, a warehouse for provisions, and a chapel. This was the extent The Presidio of San Francisco was originally Photos by the author. of the complex. Settlers and their families were left designated a National Historic Landmark on June to build their own homes, which are referred to in 13, 1962. At that time, the property was identified the record as chozas [huts] of jacal [branch and through a thematic study of sites associated with mud] or palisado [upright poles or timbers] con Spanish colonial exploration and settlement. It struction with azotea [flat roofs] with zacate was secondarily recognized for its long militar/ [straw] coverings. occupation by the United States Army after 1846. 38 CRM NS 9—1997 The only historic resource identified in 1962 was 4. Previous historic archeological studies on the Officers' Club, which was reputed to contain similar military sites provide testable patterns adobe fabric from its original use as the Spanish of land use and archeological feature locations commandant's quarters during the 18th century. that could be incorporated into the Presidio's Public perception of the Presidio NHL con predictive model. tinued to evolve through the 1970s, and with each The resulting predictive model was incorpo new study more contributing historic properties rated into the General Management Plan were identified on this 1,480-acre military reserva Amendment for the Presidio within Golden Gate tion. The number of significant buildings and National Recreation Area, and was, significantly, structures rose from one in 1962, to 277 in 1976, adopted by the U.S. Army and the Corps of to 400 in 1981, and most recently reached 662 or Engineers (COE). They continued to conduct major land disturbing projects through the period of Army-to-NPS transition and will continue to do so as hazardous material remediation continues for several years to come. Both the Corps of Engineers and the NPS use this model to make decisions about project monitoring, test excava tions, and special needs in identified archeological zones. The use of the predictive model paid off sub stantially in June 1993, when Barb Voss and Vance Bente of Woodward Clyde Consultants located stone foundations from the Spanish colo nial El Presidio while monitoring the removal of a fuel oil storage tank behind a row of 1860s Officers' Quarters. Although the monitoring was originally designed to watch for archeological remains associated with the Officers' Quarters, the discovery and the next two years of monitoring waterline construction, sewer line repairs, and Cabrillo College's more sites in 1992. During much of this time, the specially focussed excavations arranged through 1996 archeological value of El Presidio was forgotten and became sec the Army and the Corps of Engineers resulted in field school site ondary to a growing interest in the post-1846 his major contributions to our knowledge of this between an 1880s Officers' Quarters tory of the U.S. Army Presidio. Spanish colonial site. In 1995, test excavations (on the left) and Beginning with the 1992 re-study of the directed by park archeologists Leo Barker and the Officers' Club. Presidio NHL conducted through the Western Martin Mayer uncovered additional subsurface Remains of one of Regional Office of the National Register Programs, features on the southern side of the site, including the Spanish historic archeological resources had their first discovery of collapsed adobe walls under an 1880 Presidio chapels from either 1784 opportunity to be recognized as contributing ele officers quarters. or 1817 were ments of the Presidio district. The 1992 re-study of Partnering has been a major method of found here. the Presidio NHL included a predictive model for accomplishing many of the potentially costly goals historical archeological sites that would contribute of researching and developing El Presidio. During to the values of the Landmark. the transition of the military reservation to NPS A predictive sites model was chosen for the stewardship, the COE, Army, and the NPS pooled following reasons: resources and contracted with Woodward Clyde 1. The Presidio has a complex history of physi Consultants to test assumptions about the layout cal change that masked much of its archeolog of the Presidio site using ground penetrating radar, ical remains, impeding archeological site and ground truthing through hand and machine identification by pedestrian survey; excavation. 2. Similar to other NHLs with archeological com Since 1995, the Golden Gate National ponents, little funding existed to conduct Recreation Area has embarked on a long-range either remote sensing or excavations to iden archeological and historical research project on El tify and clarify the integrity of these resources; Presidio. It includes an annual archeological field 3. Substantial primary historical documentation school funded through the Golden Gate National existed to analyze, locate, and map key areas Park Association, and conducted through the where archeological sites and features would Archeological Technology Program of Cabrillo occur; and College in Aptos, California. The field school, directed jointly between Robert Edwards and CRM NS 9—1997 39 Cabrillo College Charr Simpson-Smith of students and volun Cabrillo College, and Leo teers peer over Barker, is currently examining and sort the arche- ologlcal residue one of El Presidio's numerous from each stratum chapel sites. The school was after it Is water selected because it is the only screened through certification program in 118" mesh and dried. California which produces archeological technicians pro ficient in detailed strati- graphic excavation techniques, and incorporates a public education element into its field work. While achieving park goals regard ing archeological resource identification, conservation, and interpretation, educa tional goals set in the Presidio General Management Plan are also being met. and not referenced in the existing historical docu Visitors can see, feel, and reflect on the European ments. Current interpretations place construction origins of San Francisco and much of the settle of this larger quadrangle in 1815 under the direc ment of central California. tion of Captain Luis Antonio Arguello. The growing archeological program also Other discoveries include additional founda includes contributions from Golden Gate staff, the tions over 100' outside the western side of the National Americorps program, San Francisco quadrangle, which are either from defensive walls Conservation Corps, Boy Scouts of America, and or large corrals of the early-19th century and may interested volunteers. A historic community recon represent implementation of designs prepared in struction project has begun with history students 1795-96 but refused by the royal government. from the University of San Francisco, which is Foundations, remnant interior wall plaster, and a computerizing the genealogy of El Presidio's silver crucifix have helped identify one of El Spanish and Mexican period occupants. They Presidio's chapels on the southern side of the have begun to research the Russian, English, plaza. Excavations within the central plaza show a American, and Peruvian companies and manifests busy community or village center, not the austere, of trade which will facilitate archeological work groomed, ceremonial parade ground of the and help build a more complete social and eco American period. Remodeling of the Officers' Club nomic history of the site and region. Anthropology in 1934 actually encapsulated an entire adobe students from the University of California at building including its roof and floors. Since the Berkeley will begin an intensive survey this sum building is the largest remnant of Spanish military mer to identify "outlier" sites reflecting the growth architecture in California, remote and non of El Presidio outside its initial quadrangle in the destructive archeological testing will be conducted early 1800s. San Francisco State University will to determine the original structure's layout and also be conducting remote sensing in the form of construction, as well as its development into mod ground penetrating radar, magnetometry, and ern times. resistivity surveys of both El Presidio and the out It has become apparent that El Presidio's lying survey areas. The resulting synergy is posi archeological remains cover a broader area than tive, strong, and growing. any historic documents or maps suggested, and So what have we discovered? The results of will require substantial study to clarify, interpret, the 1996 field work at El Presidio include several and develop ways of managing this historical site. new discoveries. At least two distinct construction There is much to be learned and joint historical episodes have been found. One appears to coin and archeological research will provide the best cide with the roughly 106 x 110 yard square com opportunity for enhancing public understanding of posed of a central plaza surrounded by single pile the Presidio within the Presidio of San Francisco. buildings of adobe or jacal as identified in the 1792 report of Acting Commandant Hermengildo Leo Barker is an archeologist with the Presidio, Sal and corroborated by visiting Captain George Golden Gate National Recreation Area, NPS. Vancouver. The other is a stone foundation approximately 2.5 times larger than the 1792 plan 40 CRM N2 9—1997 Ann Huston and B. Noah Tilghman Bodie, California Preserving a Historic Mining Landscape ocated on the eastern side of from the Cain Company and other owners in the California's Sierra Nevada, in the late 1950s. In 1962, the new Bodie State Historic high desert of sparsely-populated Park took on the task of protecting Bodie's ghost Mono County, Bodie is perhaps the town character and interpreting its historic quali L ties. By 1986 the state had acquired nearly 500 best-preserved mining ghost town in the United States. W. S. Body and his partners established acres of the townsite, including the cemeteries and the first mining claims (at what would ultimately some outlying associated historical features. The be spelled Bodie) in 1859. Before the turn of the California Department of Parks and Recreation century, the town may have attained a population worked to stabilize Bodie's remaining structures in of over 10,000 and produced in excess of $30 a state of "arrested decay," even as private mineral million (in pre-World War I dollars) worth of exploration on Bodie Bluff continued on a very gold. Mining continued at Bodie through several limited basis unbeknownst to most of the ever- boom and bust cycles until 1942. Bodieites increasing numbers of visitors to the park. seemed to take their reputation for wickedness, In mid-1988, California State Parks notified like their whiskey, with gusto. No one from Bodie the National Park Service that the Landmark was seems ever to have thought of refuting the threatened by a potential large-scale mining opera Reverend F. M. Warrington's often-quoted tion on the bluff above the townsite. Investigations description of their town as "a sea of sin, lashed revealed that the J. S. Cain Company, Lost Carcass by the tempest of lust and passion."* and Buzzard Mining Company, and other adjoin Following its boom years, sporadic mineral ing property owners had leased their mineral exploration prevented the town and surrounding rights and mining claims to the Bodie mining area from being completely abandoned. Consolidated Mining Company, a subsidiary of The presence of a caretaker provided by the J. S. Canadian-based Galactic Resources LTD. Galactic Cain Company, long-term owner of much of the had initiated its mineral explorations on the pri town of Bodie and its mining district, helped vately-owned Bodie Bluff and Standard Hill, situ ensure its protection from sal West side of Bodie vage and vandalism. What Bluff, looking east remains from Bodie's 83-year from the town.The gray buildings in the span of boom and bust mining center are the activity is a 2,900-acre historic Standard landscape, filled with remnants Consolidated Stamp of ore exploration, extraction Mill. Photo courtesy and processing activities; Frank Lortie. sheds, houses, rock shelters and tent platforms; ruins of commercial enterprises of all kinds, including a "Chinatown" and a red-light district; infra structure supporting trans portation and communication links with the outside; and myriad debris that was used, discarded, recycled, and aban doned. In 1961, the Secretary of the Interior desig ated only 500' above and a quarter-mile from the nated Bodie a National Historic Landmark as an State Historic Park. Lode, mill, and placer mining excellent representative of a Western mining ghost claims on surrounding public land managed by the town. The State of California, recognizing Bodie's Bureau of Land Management also were being unique value, had begun purchasing the townsite secured. Soon, Galactic would control nearly 72 CRM I\V 9—1997 41 square miles of the public domain in and around picked up the controversy and hundreds of people the State Historic Park and into Nevada. Their ini from across the United States and Europe tial explorations centered on the heart of the his expressed concern at the prospect of the potential toric mining district—an area containing hundreds destruction of Bodie and its ghost town character of structures, ruins and artifacts and a labyrinth of by an open-pit mine. The California State Park underground tunnels remaining from the earlier Rangers Association launched a protest and mining booms, as well as remains of prehistoric formed a committee they named "SAVE BODIE!" occupation sites. As explorations continued, to thwart the mining company's plans. Mono Galactic made it clear that, if the results of the County residents formed the Eastern Sierra exploration indicated a potential return on invest Citizens for the Protection of Bodie. The National ment, their intentions were to conduct a large- Park Service listed Bodie in its annual report to Congress on endangered Bodie from Standard Hill, c. National Historic Landmarks. 1890. Source The National Trust for Historic unknown. Copy Preservation, the Wilderness located in Society and others also California weighed in against the poten Department of Parks and tial mining operation. As the Recreation debate raged, the mining com archives. pany continued its explo rations, revealing little about the results of its efforts or its long-term plans, while mount ing a well-financed public rela tions campaign and beginning to fund the establishment of a local "wise use" group. In the meantime, the NPS's Western Regional Office discovered that the documen scale mining operation at Bodie. Company tation for Bodie National Historic Landmark representatives continuously assured their District did not adequately describe the resources investors and the public that Bodie was a "world- or their significance and that the Landmark lacked class" gold deposit that could be mined as safely a boundary. Amid sulfurous fumes of controversy, and as successfully as their existing gold mining the Park Service embarked on a project to improve operations in South Carolina, Nevada, and the documentation and establish a boundary for Colorado. While these same representatives the Landmark. Research into the history of the avoided saying so publicly, subsequent documen Bodie mining district and a reconnaissance of the tation has confirmed the then-current local rumors historic resources within the Bodie Bowl supported that Galactic's most economical means of mining a large boundary that integrated the mining the bluff would be through a large open-pit opera remains, the adjacent residential, commercial and tion. Tons of rock would be blown free; mineral- civic resources in the townsite, the transportation bearing ore would be separated, crushed and gold and circulation corridors that linked the mining recovered through a cyanide heap leach operation. district with the outside markets, and the local As well as a huge open pit, acres of waste rock infrastructure. NPS completed draft documenta would be left permanently on the landscape. tion for the Landmark which described it as a min The Mono County government and local res ing landscape, with a boundary that encompassed idents divided on the issue of the mining opera the townsite, the industrial resources which tion. Many saw it as an opportunity to bring included the placer, shaft and tunnel mining much-needed high-paying year-round jobs and remains along the mineralized ridge, the mills on income into the area. Others saw it destroying one and around Bodie Bluff, portions of the toll roads of their major tourist attractions and a valued his and railroad that led into the town, and the ceme toric resource. Those in opposition argued that teries and historic recreational areas adjacent to Bodie's value as a tourist destination was an the town. The core of the historic mining area, important long-term economic benefit to the Bodie Bluff and Standard Hill, coincided with county that could not be matched by any short- Galactic's "exploration target area." term mining boom which would destroy its ghost The advent of the mining threat to Bodie town atmosphere forever. National media reports served as a catalyst to the State of California to 42 CRM N2 9—1997 seek ways of realizing one of the long-term goals Bodie and to request that the President and of the Bodie State Historic Park General Congress protect the ghost town character, Development and Resource Management Plan. Theambiance , historic buildings, and scenic attributes goal—to secure areas surrounding the park to fur of Bodie and nearby areas and withdraw the right ther protect and interpret the historic mining dis of new patent or mineral entry on public lands of trict, needed to be achieved in any case for the the Bodie district. Concurrently, the Bureau of unit's protection. Once the mining company's Land Management completed its Resource intentions were made public, State Parks made a Management Plan for the Bishop Resource Area, commitment to protecting Bodie by using existing which recognized the Bodie Bowl as an "Area of regulatory and legislative processes. Visualizing a Critical Environmental Concern" (ACEC) for its three-pronged approach of regulatory protection, historical values and which also recommended a small mineral withdrawal on Bodie from Standard Hill, the opposite side of the State 1990. Photo cour Historic Park from Galactic's tesy B. Noah operations. Six months later Tilghman.California California State Parks was Department of able to open very preliminary Parks and Recreation. discussions with Galactic regarding the possibility of public acquisition of their properties at Bodie. By early 1992 the Mono County Board of Supervisors achieved a preservation-ori ented position toward Bodie. While not eliminating the pos sibility of mining or other development at Bodie, they called for creation of land use policy recommendations for withdrawal of the right of new mineral entry, and the area as part of the update of the Mono County ultimate acquisition if possible, State Parks felt General Plan. BLM, which was charged with pro that if they were successful with any two of the ducing a management plan for the ACEC, joined troika, they would be able to protect the integrity forces with the County to create a joint program. of the Park. In November 1992, the County and BLM estab Lacking regulatory authority outside of its lished an advisory committee of local citizens, 264 park units to control the impacts of off-site which included representatives from the mining mining upon the resources it is charged to protect, industry, developers, environmentalists, local California State Parks made an effort to participate landowners, the tourism industry and California in the upcoming Mono County General Plan and State Parks, to help create the policy framework. mining policy development. State Parks initiated a The committee began its task by developing a campaign to educate other resource agencies in statement of the "Bodie Experience," in order to the state as well as the public, and conducted define what it wished to protect: numerous field trips to the site for decision-mak Nowhere in America can a person better ers. Coincidentally, the Bureau of Land journey back in time to experience a leg Management's Bishop Resource Area was initiat endary Western boom town than in the his ing its Resource Management Plan effort and both toric mining region of Bodie. As we walk the State Parks and the NPS worked closely with BLM streets and view the structures and surround to document the historic values of the Bodie Bowl ing landscape, we begin to understand fron in the agency's Resource Management Plan and tier life of the 1880s—the searing heat, the indicate concerns about large-scale mining projects bitter cold, the sound of the wind, the eerie within the Bodie Bowl. quiet, and the final isolation of the cemetery. With the threat of an open pit mine, SAVE This experience helps us comprehend the BODIE! was able to gather enough support to pass place, events, and people of various cultures a Joint Resolution of the California Legislature. and ethnic backgrounds contributing to the Though lacking the force of law, this formal state American spirit of fact and myth. Bodie offers ment expressed California's concern with the an individual the unique opportunity to dis impacts that large-scale mining might have on cover and experience the special sense of CRM N2 9—1997 43 place suspended in time ... free from the Alamosa River, and which has current estimates sights and sounds of contemporary intrusion exceeding $160 million in clean-up costs. The ... This is the Bodie experience. mining threat at Bodie did not disappear with The group worked for two years, producing a Galactic's bankruptcy, however, as the company's final planning document in mid-1995. Bodie property interests were placed in the hands Simultaneously with initiation of the local of a Canadian bankruptcy trustee whose fiduciary planning efforts, California Congressmen Lehman responsibility was to market the mining claims to and Miller introduced the first of three bills to leg the highest bidder. islate additional protection of Bodie in response to With the passage of the Bodie Protection California's joint legislative resolution. Opposed by Act, the Bureau of Land Management acted Galactic, but supported by testimony from SAVE promptly to determine the validity of the existing BODIE!, local, state and national conservation mining claims. The agency completed its draft and historical organizations, the bill passed the mining regulations for the Bodie Bowl in late House of Representatives but failed in Senate 1996. State Parks redoubled its efforts to acquire committee due to the opposition of California's the critical mineral properties from the Galactic Senator John Seymour. Re-introduced by Senators trustee. These negotiations were initially crushed Feinstein and Boxer and Congressman Miller in in June 1994, with voter rejection of California's the opening days of the 104th Congress, the Bodie Proposition 180, which would have supplied protection bill once again seemed destined to much-needed park acquisition and improvement oblivion in the Senate due to opposition of funding for Bodie and a multitude of other projects Congressional and mining interests who perceived statewide. In spite of this seemingly insurmount it as a preamble to mining law reform, until it was able setback, California State Parks chose to seek amended onto the coattails of Feinstein's soon-to- alternative avenues to keep fighting for Bodie's be-successful S-21. future. First by themselves, then as success built President Clinton's signing into law, on upon itself, in cooperation with the Bureau of Halloween 1994, of Senator Feinstein's California Land Management and the National Park Service, Desert Protection Act creating the Mojave a variety of state, federal, and private funding National Preserve, also established the Bodie sources were identified and secured. None of these Protection Act of 1994 to safeguard the ghost town sources by itself was sufficient, but collectively a of Bodie. Containing many of the elements package was assembled which met the require- requested by California's leg islative resolution, this act Map showing prohibited patenting of min bodie bowl area; eral claims, required that NPS NHL bound existing mineral claims be ary; Resource reviewed, and that any claims Management Plan withdrawal area; found to be valid be subject to State Historic regulations no less stringent Park; Galactic than those administering min Lands; and ing within national parks. The Exploration area. act also required the Courtesy California Department of Department of the Interior to Parks and carry out a study as to how Recreation. Bodie could be further pro tected "including but not lim ited to acquisition of lands The impact of the leg islative mineral withdrawal was softened somewhat by the December 1992 bank ruptcy of Galactic Resources. This was brought on by their liability for a huge chemical leak at their Summitville operation in Colorado which is alleged to have sterilized nearly 17 miles of the 44 CRM N2 9—1997 merits of the Galactic bankruptcy trustee and State ical acquisition. But additional work is necessary Parks was able to consummate an agreement for to complete the property purchase and to stabilize the purchase of the property. structures before Bodie can be considered "saved". Bodie, at least superficially, meets the defini Nonetheless, there is cause for celebration. tion of a ghost town which is, according to the In September 1997, the 35th anniversary of Bodie Random House College Dictionary, "a community State Historic Park, a re-dedication of the unit will permanently abandoned by its inhabitants." be held on the historic and now-preserved hills However, the threat which has loomed over it dur overlooking the town as the park is doubled in ing the last nine years has shown that Bodie con size and the golden heart of the district is finally tinues to be inhabited by a spirit more substantial returned to the public for its protection, education than any of its ghosts. While Bodie may be empty and enjoyment. of inhabitants, it has never been deserted by them. We have discovered that there is a dis Note persed worldwide spirit of shared interest which * Bodie Park Brochure, California Department of has never abandoned this special place. This Parks and Recreation, Resource Management interest cuts not only across space but across eco Division. nomic and bureaucratic boundaries. Though sometimes separated by distance and ideology, Ann Huston is a historian, NPS, Pacific Great Basin when their town is threatened Bodie's protectors Support Office, San Francisco, CA. draw together in a partnership to channel their collective energies to its defense, just as any soci B. Noah Tilghman is with the California Department ety would do in the face of an impending menace. of Parks and Recreation, Resource Management Thanks to them, Bodie has achieved an initial crit Division, Sacramento, CA. Lou Ann Speulda Midway National Historic Landmark: Transfer and Transformation n 1993, after more than 50 years of meet federal responsibilities for migratory and service, the U.S. Navy closed its Naval marine species. Air Facility at Midway, pursuant to the Midway Atoll was the site of the Battle of Base Realignment and Closure Act of Midway, considered to be the turning point of 1990 I(PL. 101-510). In 1996, the atoll was offi World War II in the Pacific, reversing the tide of cially transferred to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Japanese expansion and reviving U.S. military Service (USFWS). morale. Ten structures directly related to the Battle Midway Atoll is at the northern end of the were commemorated in 1986 as a National Hawaiian island chain, approximately 1,250 miles Historic Landmark (NHL). northwest of Honolulu. Midway comprises a In 1995, the Navy identified and evaluated roughly circular outer reef approximately 5 miles 64 additional properties remaining on Midway in diameter that encloses a central lagoon and two that are eligible for the National Register of main islands, Sand and Eastern. The Atoll's excep Historic Places. In order to handle the complicated tional ecosystem supports the largest Laysan alba issues and adverse effects of transferring the 74 tross colony in the world, the second largest historic properties from the Navy to the USFWS, a black-footed albatross colony, at least 13 other Programmatic Agreement (PA) was developed. The species of migratory seabirds, four species of PA, initially generated by the Navy, received input migratory shorebirds, endangered Hawaiian monk from the USFWS, Advisory Council on Historic seals, threatened green sea turtles, and a diversity Preservation (Council), the National Park Service, of other marine species. Midway Atoll National the State Historic Preservation Officer of the State Wildlife Refuge (NWR) was established in 1988 to of Hawaii, the Sixth Defense Battalion, the U.S. CRM KM 9—1997 45 Marine Corps, and Defenders of Midway Islands who collected feathers and threatened the safety of Reunion Association, and the International the island residents. In January 1903, President Midway Memorial Foundation. An August 1995 Theodore Roosevelt placed the Midway Islands meeting of interested parties led to a plan for man and environs "under the Jurisdiction and control of aging historic resources on Midway and also the Navy Department" by Executive Order 199-a. raised concerns regarding public access. Visits to In May 1904, a group of 20 Marines arrived on the atoll have been restricted since 1941. For the island to provide protection for the cable staff many, public access was a priority. and island wildlife. In 1905 the U.S. Lighthouse While not every building or structure could Service established a lighthouse on Sand Island, be preserved, a consensus was achieved through further legitimizing U.S. claims to Midway Atoll. the PA negotiations to maintain contiguous por Pan American Airways began using Midway as a tions of the World War II-era landscape. Six levels stopover in the mid-1930s. of preservation were defined in the PA, including: Military interest in Midway accelerated as reuse, secure, leave as-is, fill, demolish, or relo World War II started in Europe. The Pacific Naval cate. The management category for each of the his Air Base Contractors began work on three asphalt- toric properties was based on many factors, such paved runways on Eastern Island, along with two as historic importance, interpre World War II tive value, overall setting, associ Facilities at ation with key themes, structural Midway National integrity, and recommendations Historic Landmark, Midway Islands. from interest groups, specialists, One of several sur and the Council. Prior to trans viving ammunition fer, the buildings and structures magazines that were recorded according to serviced the gun Historic American Buildings batteries during the Battle of Survey or Historic American Midway, June Engineering Record standards. 1942. Courtesy Midway's NHL status is E.N. Thompson. based on its significance during World War II, but the Atoll's his torical character is also derived from events beginning a century earlier. The first recorded land ing, in 1859, was made by Captain N.C. Brooks, who named the island grouping "Middlebrook Islands." hangars, shops, and storage buildings. In 1941 the In 1867 the Secretary of the Navy sent Captain Naval Air Station was commissioned, altering the Reynolds to take possession of the islands for the civilian character of Midway. The architectural United States. The atoll was renamed Midway in style of the buildings reflected the military pres 1869. Efforts in the 1870s to open a channel in ence in their uniform, efficient design. The Navy the reef were unsuccessful, and for the next 30 contracted Albert Kahn, one of the country's fore years visits to the Atoll were limited to shipwreck most industrial designers, to prepare standardized survivors and bird hunters. plans for barracks, mess halls, and hangars. Midway's role as an important communica Marines from the 3rd Defense Battalion and tions link with the Far East was established in 6th Defense Battalion landed on Midway in 1940- 1903 when the Commercial Pacific Cable 1941 to emplace guns and build magazines and Company chose Sand Island for one of its relay shelters. The troops were in place just in time to stations. The first superintendent was Ben W. repel a Japanese raid on December 7, 1941. Colley, who arrived in April 1903 with a staff of In that incident, 2 Japanese destroyers about 30 people. Verandah-style, two-story con shelled the island and Marine guns returned fire. crete buildings were constructed to serve as an The Japanese ships caused extensive damage and office, a mess hall, and quarters that featured a U.S. casualties amounted to 4 killed and 10 library and billiard room. Colley imported soil wounded. The most notorious hit was on the Sand from Honolulu to create a garden for growing fresh Island power plant where a round entered an air vegetables. port (window), rendering this "bomb-proof" build The cable station employees began to file ing ineffective and disrupting a communications reports of foreign activities on Midway. Especially center. First Lieutenant George H. Cannon, disturbing was the presence of Japanese poachers although mortally wounded, stayed at his post 46 CRM N2 9—1997 until communications were reestablished. He has concrete parapets that encircled the guns. The became the first marine to receive the Medal of most extensive coastal defense that remains today Honor in World War II. are the two emplacements for the 3-inch naval Suspecting that the Japanese were planning battery. The pits are surrounded by substantial, an invasion of Midway, Admiral Nimitz inspected seven-sided concrete parapets. An earth-covered, the islands on May 2, 1942. Shortly thereafter, corrugated-metal magazine for this battery stands reinforcements arrived and an extensive system of nearby. obstacles and mines was placed around the Many of the World War II shoreline defen beaches. Thirty-eight anti-aircraft guns were sive structures were covered over later by Navy installed by the end of May. expansion projects. The construction of the The Battle of Midway began on June 3, extended runway on Sand Island and Cold War- 1942, when a Japanese occupation fleet was spot era facilities along the southern shore of Sand ted by a patrol plane. Because the Japanese had Island has removed all trace of the gun locations maintained radio silence, they were unaware that in these areas. the U.S. was already alerted to their presence. Additional features for inclusion in Midway's Early on June 4, Japanese carriers launched three NHL boundary are currently under review. The waves of planes to destroy the air base at Midway National Historic Landmark Division has recom and clear the way for occupation. The Japanese mended that "all surviving structures with historic planes reached Midway about 0630, flying into a integrity dating prior to 1945 should be included," defensive barrage of anti-aircraft fire. At least 10 and further that "the locations of the carrier USS of the attacking planes were lost to this ground Yorktown, destroyer USS Hammann, and the fire, but extensive physical damage and casualties Japanese carriers, cruiser, and two destroyers sunk occurred on Sand and Eastern Islands. From June off the atoll should be confirmed, if possible, as 3 to 5, the majority of the battle was fought over well as the location of vessels or aircraft in the the ocean west of Midway. Although it cost the waters of the atoll...[Sjhip and aircraft wrecks dis lives of many American airmen and the loss of covered offshore at a future date are related to and many planes, four Japanese carriers were sunk must then be considered for inclusion within the approximately 150 miles from Midway, and the boundary area of the NHL." Discussions of Japanese fleet retreated. The Japanese Navy never Midway's NHL boundary will continue until a fully recovered from this loss, and its expansion in meaningful consensus is achieved by the many the Pacific was stopped. interest groups. Since that pivotal moment in history, Another important issue relating to Midway's Midway has continued to be a strategic location closure as a Naval facility is visitor access. In an for the military. During the Korean conflict, NAF unprecedented arrangement, the USFWS has Midway served as a refueling station. In the late- secured the assistance of a commercial cooperator 1950s Midway was substantially updated: the har to share the burden of operating the facilities and bor and Sand Island runway were expanded; a providing transportation and services for tourists. new hangar with administration offices was built; Returning Sand and Eastern islands to appropriate and housing, a school, a chapel, a galley for 1,000 wildlife habitat and providing opportunities for enlisted men, water and fuel facilities, and recre ecological and historical tours are goals of the ational facilities were constructed. During the refuge. Currently, the Navy's "clean-up" efforts are Vietnam War, Midway was selected as the site for bringing the overall appearance of Midway closer the June 8,1969 meeting of President Thieu of the to that of the 1940s. Recasting NAF Midway to Republic of Vietnam and U.S. President Richard Midway Atoll NWR is proving to be an exciting Nixon. transformation. In the waning years of the Cold War, Midway's strategic importance as a military base Lou Ann Speulda is with the Region 1 Office of the diminished, but its unique historic associations U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. and superb wildlife habitat quickly gained recogni tion. For more information contact the U.S. Fish The 1986 NHL boundary contains the 10 & Wildlife Service, Region 1, Tualatin River NWR remaining defensive positions on Sand Island, (Attn: Lou Ann Speulda), 20555 SW Gerda Lane, including batteries, magazines, and pillboxes. Sherwood, OR 97140, ph. 503-625-4377 or e- Three of the 6th Battalion's magazines are mail: CRM N2 9—1997 47 Four views of Mare Island Naval Shipyard NHL, Vallejo, California, (below) Chapel; (right, top to bot tom) Officers' Quarters, Shipyard, Hospital. The com plexity of resources composing military facilities across the country poses great challenges in the face of new military needs or base closure. At Mare Island, NFS has worked with the new owner, the city of Vallejo, to include many of the 350 contributing structures under a local preservation ordinance in order to protect their integrity as they are adapted for new uses. The shipyard, the oldest Naval base on theWest Coast, was closed after 140 years of ser vice. Photos by Susan Escherich. U.S. Department of the Interior FIRST CLASS MAIL National Park Service Postage & Fees Paid Cultural Resources U. S. Department of the Interior 1849 C St.,, NW Washington, DC 20240 G-83 OFFICIAL BUSINESS PENALTY FOR PRIVATE USE $300 VOLUME 20 • NO. 9 Cultural Resources Washington, DC