“It’s All About The Experience – Yours and Ours ” Volume 9 Issue 2 Telephone : 08 8356 1874 SEPTEMBER 2007 ost of the place names on wo bronze he good rains in the north earlier the Birdsville Track are busts of in the year seemed to inspire part of a big Aboriginal legendary interest in outback travel—with M T T legend, up to Cannuwaukaninna. mailman Tom Kruse all our Birdsville, and will be produced by Gawler Ranges departures fully booked! They deal with the search by a Moora highly regarded South (or tribal god) for two dogs that got Australian sculptor Julie from the away from him at Beltana. Ms Patricia Mosely. He followed them and got on their Homestay tracks at , then on to The Visitor Information Centre at at Innamincka Tidnacoordaninna, where he got bogged Birdsville and the National Motor sent some in the mud of the waterhole (tidna, Museum at Birdwood in the Adelaide photographs “foot”; unda or coordna, “sticky mud”), Hills (the home of the 1936 Back of taken by the concluding word should be “ana” , Beyond Leyland Badger) are the Peter and the local word for water. proposed locations for the two life sized Bronwynne The Moora then went on to busts. Barnes of Station. Parts Cannuwaukaninna, where he of their property had over six inches of The organising committees target is to rain early in February, causing extensive complained that his legs were too tired, and that is the meaning of raise $12,000 over the next three damage to the Cordillo Road, which as months. The project has already many of you would know, is not the Cannuwaukaninna.; then on to Ethaduna, which means “turn back”. attracted support from a number of smoothest of roads at the best of times! He was told here that the dogs had organisations including the RFDS, the

doubled back south east, so he followed Diamantina Shire Council and the To get an on and found them at Kiltallie-oola Australian Outback Development idea of the Consortium (AODC). (“two dogs”) - but this is off the depth of Birdsville Track. these Tom Kruse celebrated his 93rd birthday washouts, Going north from Ethaduna, we come to on August 28th this year. the photo Kopperamanna—(properly Koppara His mail run re-enactment in his fully (right) shows Murra—”root”,”hand”). This was a restored 1936 Leyland Badger was the Peter’s ute great trading centre and all tracks led to subject of an evocative, colourful and parked on it—as all the fingers come together in emotional documentary Last Mail from the road ….which comes to an abrupt end! the root of the hand, so all tracks led to Kopparamurra. Birdsville the Story of Tom Kruse The Diamantina Shire predicts a “bumper produced by Corrugated Air Productions year” for wildflowers once the weather Killapaninna was left away to the west; in 1999. It’s now available on DVD as cools off, with all sorts of colours, this got its name from an intrigue that part of The Back of Beyond Collection contrasting beautifully with the red of the the sun Moora had….and we must avoid from the Royal Flying Doctor Service. scandal. sand dunes—and that will be a sight to see. Already there's plenty of feed for the The only reference to Mungerannnie is Tom is travelling well at the moment cattle, graziers saying it will do them for the Aboriginal word meaning “ugly”. and the organising committee is keen to at least 18 months, and it is knee high Its school opened in 1914 and closed have both Tom and his wife Valma and above already. The area is on the 1916. participate in unveiling the busts. edge of the desert, but it’s green as far as the eye can see, and it would be fair to The Governor General Major General say you’d think you were in the middle Michael Jeffery AC CVO MC will be of England! approached to officiate when the project has been completed.

DESERT SKY TOURS……….. 1998 Finalist – Small Business Award Finalist …….. 2002 Winner – Northern SA Business Awards Desert Sky News Page 2

History Repeats Itself !

arly July of this year 2007 I was fortunate in obtaining a seat on the Personalised 4 wheel drive E Tour to Cooper Creek and Coongie Lakes.

Fortunate, in as much as it gave me the opportunity to visit the “Dig Tree” site on Nappa Merrie Station out of Innamincka.

You see, my father was a shearer and my early memories are of him being away from home for long periods of time, his many letters, tracing his path on road maps and eagerly waiting for his return home between shearing sheds. Frank’s Father— (with hand on tree)

Places and station names, such as Tarcoola, Kingoonya, Coondambo, Glendambo, Wilcannia, Cordillo Downs, Nappa Merrie quite often came up in conversation around the dinner table. Occasionally, photos of experiences on the road were pored over. This inspired in me a love of maps (I never travel without one) and an interest in the wonders of the Outback. In my retirement I now have the opportunity to explore the Outback and also visit places where my father travelled.

Among his collection of photos is one (above) taken approx. 1932 – 1935 showing my father reclining in the “Face Tree” at the “Dig Tree” site, a link with the history of the Burke and Wills Expedition. My father is second from the left in the picture shown. Now some seventy five years later I was given the opportunity to have my photo taken in the same tree knowing my father had visited here. This being a momentous chapter in my life.

Talk about coincidence, while sharing some of my father’s collection of photos around the BBQ at our accommodation at Cooper Creek Homestay Innamincka, an exact print of a wagon drawn by a team of camels crossing the Cooper at Innamincka was also located in a local collection of photos brought out by our hosts. Every trip has its own surprises.

Frank Mashado

Frank at the Face Tree—July 2007

Wagon and camels crossing Cooper Creek Vehicle crossing Cooper Creek

Desert Sky News Page 3

State Dog Fence Just for Interest!

Dog Fence Board Manager Michael Balharry and Far West representative After leaving Tailem Bend, and heading Phillip Trowbridge have recently travelled the Fence from towards Pinnaroo, there is a property on the through to the New South Wales border and report it to be in “good order”. southern corner of the intersection Dukes They also noted the efforts of the Central Local Board in putting in 11,000 Highway and the Mallee Highway which has new posts in the Fence from Parakylia back to Coober Pedy over the past cyclone fencing extending a number of 18 months. kilometres. The two local patrolmen there are Manfred Zeptner and Jeff Boland. An enquiry to the Mallee District Council has Michael and Fence Supervisor Bill Sandow attended the Barrier Fence established this is the Mitsubishi vehicle Administrators’ National Conference in Newcastle, NSW, late last month. testing track. While they were there OneSteel hosted a catered tour of their mill where Mitsubishi announced in 2003 it would the ‘looms’ used to manufacture the netting used on the Fence operate. invest a total of $12 million in upgrading and extending the Track facilities to include a Sir Sidney Kidman new $10 million high-speed test track, making it one of the largest facilities of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, allowing Sir Sidney Kidman’s 150th birthday celebrations (May 9th ) were testing of cars beyond 200 km/h. marked by the unveiling of a plaque at S Kidman and Co’s North Adelaide office. Birdsville Races 2007 The plaque was unveiled by the Minister for Agriculture, Fisheries and Food, Rory McEwen and the ceremony was followed by morning tea and Crowds at the annual Birdsville Races were other celebratory drinks. down by half, but organisers were delighted Sir Sidney Kidman (1857-1935) was born in and left home with the strong turnout. at 13 to work as a sheep drover. He formed a business with his brother in Among 4,000 people who travelled to the droving and trading cattle and horses. remote far western Queensland community, S Kidman and Co was founded in 1899 and is a family business owned by many arrived in the 75 light aircraft that were the descendents of Sir Sidney. The company now operates 12 stations in parked at the airport. SA, Queensland, the NT and WA. These stations occupy 120,000 sq km Almost $30,000 was raised for charity at the and carry on average 197,000 cattle. phantom race meeting on Saturday that was attended by 1,500 people. Lake Eyre Yacht Club “I had a ball at the Birdsville (no) Races in 2007”, T Shirts proclaimed. The Lake Eyre Yacht Club has purchased the UAM Ministries property at Marree for use as Mt Gee— the new headquarters of the Club.

The property, comprising the old UAM Hall on Mount Gee is one of South Australia’s natural 1 ¾ acres, is ideally situated on the Oodnadatta geological wonders, and is part of the very Track at the Lake Eyre end of Marree in the heartland of the Arkaroola Wilderness Afghan Quarter. Sanctuary, in the spectacular northern Lake Eyre North is 144km long and 77 km wide. Flinders Ranges, 660km north of Adelaide. The lowest point is 1`5.2 metres below sea level and its deepest flood A Uranium mine here would be in total (20th century) was in 1947 at 5.7 metres. Lake Eyre South is 64km long contradiction with the principles of the and 24km wide and has a maximum depth of 3/7 metes. Sanctuary, and would undermine the 40 yrs The two lakes are joined by the 15km Goyder Channel through which water of Conservation work to protect over 600 sqr has flowed in recent history. Both lakes have a combined area of 9,690 kms of this wild and beautiful arid mountain square kms. range property. Visitors and friends can help save Arkaroola One of the aims of the Club is to collect and disseminate from the threat of mining. by writing to State accurate information about the Lake, and the website:- and Federal politicians. A list of names and www.lakeeyreyc.com contains some interesting email addresses can be found on the information—including background of naming of various Arkaroola website at : locations around the Lake. http://www.arkaroola.com.au/ breakingnews.php

Desert Sky News Page 4 A selection of our trips!

Wilson’s Promontory A Rumba in Tumba! The Painted Desert

Following the success of our two trips A favourite outback destination, this this year, we again offer this 9 day trip itinerary combines a number of in 2008. experiences. The itinerary combines the beautiful There is adventure and remoteness Grampians National Park (with over- through travelling the Oodnadatta Track night stay at the Kookaburra Motel to William Creek, (situated on Anna Halls Gap), continuing through the Creek Station -Australia’s largest cattle National Park to Dunkeld and the This Christmas we are off to Tumby Bay, on Eyre Peninsula ! station). interesting towns of Mortlake and Camperdown to Colac. The 5 day trip which departs on 23rd There is intrigue at the opal fields of The Queenscliff Ferry across the December, includes a crossing from Coober Pedy, (with underground accom- Mornington Peninsula to Sorrento Wallaroo to Lucky Bay on the new modation) and wonder in the natural makes it a pleasant drive to Fish SeaSA ferry ! beauty and colours of the Arkaringa Creek—The Gateway to Wilson’s Accommodation is at the Tumby Bay Hills, which form the Painted Desert. Promontory and our base for 4 nights, Marina Motel, which will be our base for 4 nights. while we explore the Promontory National Park. The itinerary includes Trinity Haven

For walkers, there is opportunity to Scenic Drive to Port Lincoln, and the

take several tracks including Loo – lower Eyre Peninsula including Sleaford

Ern Track, Whisky Beach, Squeaky Bay, Lincoln National Park, Coffin Bay, and Cummins. Beach and Picnic Point.

The peaks and Islands of The Prom Oh! - did I mention Christmas Lunch? dominate the horizon at Walkerville, Well, we have booked the new Port an idyllic coastal settlement formerly Lincoln Hotel, and General Manager In contrast, our 2 night stay in Woomera known as Waratah and one of the Gareth Dunne has put together a provides insight to space travel, fantastic menu for their first Christmas. places we visit next day around the amazement at the fast growing Roxby Cape Liptrap Coastal Park. We have 3 seats only available on this Downs, and awe (sorry!) at the Olympic A scenic drive through Tarwin Lower trip. The package fare is $775 t/s with Dam Mining development. to Venus Bay and Inverloch takes us single supplement $150. through the Bunurong Marine Park

with great views to Cape Patterson. Kangaroo Island

A short journey inland to Leongatha

provides a change of interest as we

visit the Coal Creek Heritage Village.

The Strzelecki Ranges, with the Agnes River Waterfalls, and beautiful fern –filled gullies fascinate as we venture to the Tarra Bulga National Park, and Corrigan’s Suspension Bridge, returning along the Grand It is truly a trip of varied and interesting Ridge Road to Welshpool and Toora. Our last trip before Christmas this year! experiences! Four full days touring this most scenic One of the great features of this trip is Island- and excellent accommodation at the return home via the full length of the Wisteria Lodge motel, overlooking The Great Ocean Road! - visiting Nepean Bay. Lorne, Skenes Creek, How to contact us: From Penneshaw and rugged Cape Port Campbell to Port- Willoughby, to the grandeur of  PO Box 683 land and Mt Gambier. Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch, GLENELG SA 5045

to the beautiful and quiet Bays— What more fitting way Pennington, Vivonne, Emu, this tour  08 8356 1874 could there be than to covers all popular destinations—and travel the Coorong to  [email protected] more.! We have seats available on this Adelaide! trip departing Tuesday 13th November.  www.desertskytours.com

Desert Sky News Page 5 A little more about our personalised trips! Itinerary for It is certainly more interesting than the Coongie Lakes & The Cooper 2008 Barrier Highway, and a few kilometres Two trips this year and we had a great shorter, although travelling time is about time on each. the same as there are station gates to Back O’Bourke Travel is via the Strzelecki Track from open, and speed is reduced on the (9 days) ~ $1950 pp Saturday April 12 Lyndhurst, past Blanchewater Station unsealed road. ruins and Monte Collina Bore to a point Birdsville/Innamincka just south of Moomba,, crossing at Toward a Bridle Path (9 days) ~ $1950 pp

Merty Merty Station, to follow the old Tuesday July 15 During the year I had the pleasure of Wednesday August 13 Strzelecki Track to Innamincka. taking a group from New Zealand on a The old Track enables us to visit a tour of Yorke Peninsula and the Cooper Creek/Innamincka (7 days) ~ $1525 pp couple of the old waterholes such as Southern Flinders Ranges. Thursday July 3 Toolachie, and Nappacoongie, It is an We visited the pretty coastal towns of interesting diversion, dotted with many Price, Ardrossan, Pine Point and Port Explore Mungo National Pk Vincent, then headed down the (5days) ~ $895 pp gas drilling sites. Wednesday April 2 picturesque coastal road to Wool Bay, and Coobowie to Edithburgh—our base Flinders Ranges/Arkaroola for 2 nights. (5 days) ~ $995 pp Including “Ridgetop Tour” The wind farm at Wattle Point is Tuesday September 9 interesting, and we passed among the Tuesday September 23 turbine towers next day on a trip past Sunday October 12

Troubridge Point to Marion Bay. The Gawler Ranges first section of the road follows the coast (5 days) ~ $830 pp and there are some magnificent views to Saturday August 30

Investigator Strait and the Southern Kangaroo Island Within the Innamincka Regional Ocean. (4 days) ~ $875 pp Reserve lies the world heritage listed On the southern tip of Yorke Peninsula, Tuesday February 26 region of Coongie Lakes. Our day is Thursday November 13 Innes National Park encompasses through Scrubby Camp waterhole which spectacular coastal landscapes. The Skenes Creek/Great Ocean Rd provides some excellent views of the forces of wind and wave action over (5 days) ~ $925 pp north-west branch of the Cooper Creek, thousands of years have sculptured Sunday May 11 and further along is Kudriemitchie rocky headlands, wavecut platforms and William Creek & The Painted Desert Outstation. Birds are plentiful! sandy beaches. Here the history of (9 days) ~ $1745 pp

ship wrecks, farming, and gypsum Sunday April 27 The Coongie Lakes system has been recognised for its importance in mining are preserved, with the ruins of Wilson’s Promontory providing a unique environment for the township of Inneston bearing (9 days)_- $1725 pp plants and animals of the desert.. testament to a boom phase when 500 Tuesday March 4 people lived in the town. The peace and remoteness of this area is Yorke Peninsula & Innes National Park breathtaking ! From the foot of Yorke Peninsula to (4 days) - $620 pp Wallaroo, and a great overnight stay in Saturday October 25 The Cooper Creek is one of outback the Sonbern Lodge Motel—whose Australia’s greatest treasures, and is dining room recaptures the spirit of a pivotal to the story of the Burke and bygone era, and is somewhat at odds to Wills expedition. We visit Camp LXV, Personalised 4WD Tours the new Copper Coast Marina develop- Burke’s Marker, and have a sunset ment which we pass next day on our cruise -Birds are plentiful! Coongie Lakes & The Cooper way to Colably Hill Road, Beetaloo (7 days)_- $1925 pp The return journey is through Cameron Valley and the Southern Flinders. Sunday June 1 Corner to Tibooburra and Broken Hill. Our overnight stop at the North Star Sky-trek & The Flinders I thank Norm, on our earlier trip this Hotel Melrose allows us to explore (5 days) - $975 pp year for pointing out a former pastoral places such as Alligator Gorge, Spring Saturday June 14 Creek Mine, Mt Remarkable—but it route from Broken Hill to Burra. Yorke Peninsula & Southern Flinders The road is unsealed but graded, and also provides opportunity next day to (5 days) - $975 pp passes through the stations of take the 4wd Bridle track to Port Thursday October 2 Harriedale, Loch Lilly, Oakvale, Germein. This is one of the most out- Other personalised tours in 4WD Quondong, Sturt Vale to Burra. standing scenic routes around—with vehicle can be arranged by request unrestricted views to Spencer Gulf. Desert Sky News Page 6

The Women Of The West Birdsville 14th August trip

They left the vine-wreathed cottage and the mansion on the hill, Bump, rattle, shake, crawl The houses in the busy streets where life is never still, Birdsville to Innaminka The pleasures of the city, and the friends they cherished best: Lunch in old wool shed For love they faced the wilderness—the Women of the West.

The roar, and rush , and fever of the city died away, Afternoon sun shines And the old time joys and faces—they were gone for many a day; Two sticks flash on Big Red dune In their place the lurching coach-wheel , or the creaking bullock chains, Dashing Eric climbs up O’er the everlasting sameness of the never-ending plains. Attentive Lily In the slab-built, zinc-roofed homestead of some lately-taken run, Assists at catering times In the tent beside the bankment of a railway just begun, Anticipating needs In the huts on new selections, in the camps of man’s unrest, On the frontiers of the Nation, live the Women of the West. Youthful Alan walks Over gibber, creek and dune The red sun robs their beauty and, in weariness and pain, The slow years steal the nameless grace that never comes again; Seeking antlion holes And there are hours men cannot soothe, and words men cannot say - The nearest woman’s face may be a hundred miles away. He leaves the driver’s seat A few words about where we are The wide bush holds the secrets of their longing and desires, Howard’s history talks When the white stars in reverence light their holy altar fires, And silence, like the touch of God, sinks deep into the breast- Brilliant hostess, Jen Perchance He hears and understands the Women of the West. Mistress of tour, meals and beds Then an accordion For them no trumpet sounds the call, no poet plies his arts - They only hear the beating of their gallant, loving hearts, But they have sung with silent lives the song all songs above- Recipe for a wonderful Desert Sky Tour The holiness of sacrifice, the dignity of love. Take Well have we held our fathers’ creed. No call has passed us by, One woman from Georgetown We faced and fought the wilderness, we sent our sons to die. Two Lilies And we have hearts to do and dare, and yet, o’er all the rest, Three hundred creek beds The heats that made the Nation were the Women of the West. Four dead explorers

George Essex Evans Five walking sticks 1863-1909 Six different beds Seven hundred sand dunes Eight seats with a view News from Mt Ive Station Nine picnic lunches Tens of waterbirds

Thousands of wild flowers Mix all together with two amazing Humbies Put in a six wheel bus for 9 days, travel over 3,000 kilometres and Turn out still enjoying each other’s company .

©Estelle & Don Gobbett From our shop! -

• Copies of our DVD “Celebrating 10 years” are available at $10 each.

• Desert Sky Tawny Port $8 bottle A new Naval vessel has been launched at Mt Ive in the Gawler Ranges! The excellent conversion of an old water tank has resulted in what must • Set of 6 Desert Sky place-mats $20 be the most distant submarine from water! • Quality engraved pens $5 Photo: courtesy Joan Matthews

DESERT SKY TOURS………..1998 Finalist – Small Business Award Finalist ……... 2002 Winner – Northern SA Business Awards