www.wta.org September 2008 » Washington Trails On Trail Northwest Explorer »

Good as Gold Golden Horn in the North Cascades offers a treasure trove of climbing, skiing and hiking

Golden Horn. Alpinists seeking the premier ber, when the first major storm blows in a fresh Mount Hardy, in the mountain climbing area in Washington state go coat of snow. Golden Horn region there. Spring skiers looking for sunshine and The geology here is fascinating. The Golden of the North Cas- fine telemark powder go there. Photographers Horn country consists of a relatively young cades. Pinnacles of seeking fall colors go there. Hikers yearning for intrusion of granodiorite, formed locally some granite here attract remote, wind-rippled tarns go there. Located in forty-eight million years ago, with pink and hikers and climb- the Okanogan region just footsteps away from white feldspars plainly visible. The chemistry ers from around the the North Cascades Highway, the Golden Horn of the rock differs significantly from surround- world. granite country offers a premier destination ing plutons such as the much darker and visibly Photo by Geoffrey Sandine for just about any kind of outdoor enthusiast. pockmarked granites of the nearby Black Peak Here’s how you can go there too. batholith. Local weathering and frost wedging Location and geology both contribute to the have created some spectacular rock formations attractions of Golden Horn. The area is situated within the Golden Horn. Early Winters, Liberty east of the Cascade crest and offers many more Bell and the Wine Spires offer some of the most days of sunshine than other parts of the North aesthetic multi-pitch rock climbing routes in the Cascades. By the time storms reach Washing- entire Cascade range. And thanks to the inclu- Geoffrey ton Pass, many have lost their moisture. Also, sion of those feldspars, the color of the granite the North Cascades Highway allows for simpler takes on a fine pinkish glow under the long Sandine access with a long season for recreation—typi- exposure of a camera lens. Bring your camera Geoffrey is a pho- cally stretching from April, after the snowplows and tripod, and shoot for the alpenglow of early tographer and have cleared the highway, through mid-Novem- morning or late evening. WTA member. » On Trail September 2008 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

On my first visit in 1991, I drove my long- And, for the adventurous, try the off-trail jour- since retired Datsun LX through a dismal morn- ney from the highway’s hairpin turn to Kanga- ing of fog and rain up Highway 20 en route to roo Pass, with views of odd, weathered sculp- the Twisp River. When I arrived at Washington tures like Half Moon and Kangaroo Temple, two Pass, the showers relented a bit. In brief win- formations that preside over a rugged basin of dows where the mist parted, a dreamlike city polished domes and scree slopes. Midway, you of rock emerged—the shimmering gold towers will pass the remnants of a small wayward of Burgundy, Chablis and Pernod along with plane and later a shady pond, frozen for much the immediate sheer face of Liberty Bell. With of the year, before locating a boot path that In October, larches all these amazing peaks jutting skyward above ascends to the pass. along the Pacific clusters of white pine and hemlock, I knew this Pacific Crest Trail aficionados have a great Crest Trail north of was a place that demanded further exploration. opportunity in the Golden Horn area. The im- Rainy Pass turn a So where do you begin? First, a mandatory maculately maintained route between Rainy brilliant golden- stroll along the paved overlook trail from the Pass and Harts Pass makes for a relatively easy yellow. The region pass really cannot be beat for views of the big one-way backpacking trip using two cars—one was unfortunately walls of the Liberty Bell massif, along with Sil- at each pass. The tread weaves upward through left out of North verstar Mountain and the Wine Spires. Or hike pine and larch forests, the latter of which turn Cascades National the 5-mile round trip Blue Lake Trail, which golden in the fall. The trail crosses a perennial Park. takes you to a tarn at the foot of Liberty Bell. stream after 3 miles, your last reliable water Photo by Geoffrey Sandine for many hours, before reaching Cutthroat Pass around the 5-mile mark. The trail then sidehills over a crushed gravel bed for several enjoy- able alpine miles, passing through pockets of larch and offering vistas to a huge panorama of peaks in all directions. Look for Black Tower and Silverstar Mountains as well as the jagged spires of the Needles. At the 10-mile mark, you can take an easy side trip to shallow Snowy Lakes, set in a high basin, or continue on the PCT for a few more miles and snoop around for the elusive Nugget Lakes set deep in a forested vale. At 31 miles, you reach Harts Pass, where your return vehicle awaits. In spring, telemark skiers head for Silverstar Mountain. As seen from the Washington Pass overlook, the complex sweep of serpentine but- tresses culminating in sharp pinnacles might appear daunting, but the glacier on the hidden backside provides skiers an easy outlet to thou- sands of feet of wilderness powder. Access to the glacier is best achieved by following either the Silverstar Creek route beginning at the signed outlet for the creek or the more straight- forward climber’s path that begins around the widened 5,400-foot mark off Highway 20. If you choose the climber’s route, then begin by scam- pering down a loose boulder field and cross Willow Creek, always fordable except during a major spring runoff. On the other side, veer left and scan for a track leading uphill, which in short order crests the timbered ridge. The route becomes more distinct as the timber thins but disappears altogether in the gully that leads to Burgundy Col. According to Mazama-based mountain guide Larry Goldie, another possible ski tour would be in the snow bowls under the shadow of Cutthroat Peak. The paved Cutthroat Lake trailhead provides a starting point to these fine runs that don’t require prior moun- taineering experience. One of the best ways to enjoy the area is to get in touch with the granite. Literally. Goldie asserts, “The big thing tends to be the high www.wta.org September 2008 » Washington Trails On Trail « quality of rock climbs, 50 to 60 routes on the Concord Tower. Liberty Bell massif with dozens of classic routes After you have finished a hard day of adven- that offer climbers years of entertainment.” turing, drop by the Winthrop Brewery, at 155 Hike Further, Goldie says, “It’s some of the best rock Riverside Avenue in Wintrhop. You’ll find live Details in the mountains in the Northwest.” blues on Fridays and a fine porter on tap. It’s a For those with rock climbing skills, two great place to run into other weekend warriors. Rainy Pass excellent starter routes are both located on the Other places to grab some grub: Liberty Bell massif. Each is approached from Twisp River Pub features hand-crafted ales to Harts Pass the popular Blue Lake trailhead. The South and an excellent selection of West Coast wines Maps: Green Trails Arete on South Early Winters Spire features two plus live blues/jazz/folk music. I recommend the 49 Mount Logan, 50 separate mid-fifth-class moves near the begin- Thai Peanut Stir Fry. 201 Highway 20, Twisp. Washington Pass, 51 ning of the climb. Once past these challenges, Cinnamon Twisp Bakery. Arrive early for Mazama the remaining ascent involves scrambling on or your Cinnatwist (my wife sets the alarm)! 116 N. Guidebook: 100 near the crest, requiring perhaps only another Glover Street, Twisp. Hikes in Washington’s belay or two depending on the climbing party’s Sun Mountain Lodge A formal dining experi- North Cascades level of experience. At 7,807 feet, the summit ence with views over the Methow. Just follow National Park Region commands views of startling contrasts between Sun Mountain Road from Winthrop to the lodge. by Harvey Manning & the barren hills of the seldom-explored Pas- Ira Spring (Mountain- ayten Wilderness in one direction and the ice eers Books, 2000). giants of the North Cascades in the other. Two Mileage: 31 miles ropes are recommended for the rappel down the lower section of the route. Elevation gain: The Southwest Face route on the Liberty Bell 2,700 feet to Snowy climb follows in the pioneering footsteps of the Lake Northwest’s most prolific climber, Fred Beckey, Directions: Drive on superlative rock. While you may share a the North Cascades ledge with a mountain goat, typically it is Highway (WA 20) to interested in a good salt lick and not you. This Rainy Pass. The trail- ascent initially climbs over a chockstone, or you head is on the north may opt to squeeze through a minor hole under- side of the road, neath, confident your Slim-Fast breakfast did elevation 4,800 feet. the job. The next pitch tackles a steep winding chimney in the 5.6 to 5.7 range, followed by another pitch of mid-fifth-class climbing. Your Left: Libery Bell, last barrier is a friction slab rated at 5.7 but above Rainy Pass. really nothing more than a bouldering problem, Cimbers flock to the given the lack of exposure. Then you’re at the spires of Goldern top of Liberty Bell proper. Bring a double rope Horn for world-class for this one as well. The descent does not fol- rock. low the climbing route but rather takes a more direct line to the col splitting Liberty Bell and Below, Left: Hiker above Varden Lake. Whether you’re into backcountry skiing or day hiking, the re- gion north of Rainy Pass is a recreation paradise. Photos by Geoffrey Sandine