Summer/Fall 2008

The Wild Cascades The Journal of the North Ca s cades Conservation Council s u m m e r /Fall 2008

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  1 The North Cascades THE WILD CASCADES  Summer/Fall 2008 Conservation Council was formed in 1957 “To protect and In This Issue preserve the North Cascades’ scenic, scientific, recreational, educational, 3 President’s Report — Marc Ba r d s l e y and wilderness values.” Continuing New NCCC Board Members this mission, NCCC keeps government officials, environmental organizations, 4 NCCC Explores Park and Wilderness Additions — Jim Dav i s , Executive and the general public informed about Di r e c t o r , No rt h Cascades Co n s e rvat i o n Co u n c i l issues affecting the Greater North Wolves Get a Breather — Jim Dav i s Cascades Ecosystem. Action is pursued 5 Calendar of Events for the North Cascades, Fall 2008 through legislative, legal, and public 6 40th Anniversary Dinner and Auction, October 3 participation channels to protect the lands, waters, plants and wildlife. 7 Chip Jenkins — Our New Superintendent of North Cascades National Park Service Complex — Dav e Flu h a rt y Over the past half century the NCCC 8 Global Warming and Wild Lands — Co n w a y Le o v y has led or participated in campaigns to create the North Cascades National 9 Whitechuck River Update — Rick McGuire Park Complex, Glacier Peak Wilder- 10 Blanchard Mountain Victory: the NCCC wins one in court ness, and other units of the National 11 Happy Birthday North Cascades National Park — Ken Wi l c o x Wilderness System from the W.O. Douglas Wilderness north to the 17 Backcountry Travels: Swamp Creek — To m Ha mm o n d Alpine Lakes Wilderness, the Henry M. 18 National Forests ORV Travel Management Update, July 2008 Jackson Wilderness, the Chelan-Saw- Reiter Foothills tooth Wilderness, the Wild Sky Wil- 19 Pratt River Proposal Update with map — Rick McGuire derness and others. Among its most dramatic victories has been working 22 Books from NCCC — Wilderness Alps: Conservation and Conflict in with British Columbia allies to block Washington’s North Cascades and 100 Hikes in the North Cascades the raising of Ross Dam, which would National Park Region have drowned Big Beaver Valley. 23 NCCC Membership Application The NCCC is supported by member 24 NCCC Attempts Native Plant Restoration — Ken Wi l c o x dues and private donations. These contributions support the full range Cover: Silesia Creek Valley from a camp on Copper Mountain Ridge, eve- of the Council’s activities, including ning; Border Peaks at left. —Bo b Gunning publication of The Wild Cascades. As Patrick Goldsworthy shakes President Lyndon Johnson’s hand at signing of a 501(c)(3) organization, all contribu- the North Cascades bill — 1968. tions are fully tax deductible to the extent allowed by law. Membership dues for one year are: Living Lightly/ The Wild Cascades Student $10; Individual $30; Family $50; Sustaining $100; Other, $______. Journal of the North Cascades Conservation Council

Editor: Betty Manning North Cascades Editorial Board: John Edwards, Tom Hammond, Conservation Council Carolyn McConnell and Rick McGuire P.O. Box 95980 University Station Printing by EcoGraphics Seattle, WA 98145-2980 The Wild Cascades is published three times a year (Spring, Summer/Fall, Winter). Executive Director, Jim Davis Letters, comments, and articles are invited, subject to editorial review. 1-360-296-5159 The Wild Cascades Editor North Cascades Conservation Council NCCC Website University Station, Seattle, WA 98145-2980 www.northcascades.org

The Wild Cascades is printed on recycled paper with soy-based ink.

2  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 NCCC Board

president Marc Bardsley Founded in 1957 b o a r d chairman SEATTLE, WASHINGTON Patrick Goldsworthy vice president Charles Ehlert The President’s Report Summer/Fall 2008 treasurer Tom Brucker s you read this edition of The Wild Cascades you will notice a number of refer- ences to the 40th birthday of the North Cascades National Park (NCNP). The North secretary ACascades Conservation Council (NCCC) is justifiably proud of the park and the Phil Zalesky protection it has given to thousands of acres of our natural environment. In fact, the NCCC was formed over fifty years ago specifically to lead the creation of this park we executive d i r e c t o r all love. It took about ten years to finally succeed in creating the NCNP. It took ten years Jim Davis to finally create the Wild Sky Wilderness; Alpine Lakes, Boulder River, and some of our other wilderness areas took nearly as long. Persistence, it would seem, is a virtue for those seeking protection of public land. When the NCNP was initially formed by Congress, several key areas were left out. Bruce Barnbaum Liberty Bell, Golden Horn, Granite Creek and portions of the Cascade River drainage were among the deleted highlights. The NCCC is working on a campaign to protect Jim Davis these and other areas in the vicinity. Although details are not quite ready for publication, readers of this journal will be asked to help. Polly Dyer I hope it doesn’t take another ten years to complete the process but even if it does, we intend to succeed. John Edwards

Dave Fluharty

Anders Forsgaard

Karl Forsgaard

Kevin Geraghty New NCCC Board Members

Tom Hammond ANDERS FORSGAARD MIKE TOWN I was raised on Mercer Island, Wash., Mike Town graduated from Huxley Col- by a veritable eco-terrorist of a father lege of Environmental Science as a Terres- Phil Leatherman (perhaps “environmentally conscious” trial Ecosystem Analyst. He worked for the would be a more appropriate label for Karl Forest Service on the interaction between Betty Manning Forsgaard). Before I could even walk, my fire, lodgepole pine and mountain pine father introduced me to the Cascade wil- beetles. derness from the vantage of his backpack. Since 1985, Mike has been teaching Carolyn McConnell My childhood was marked by frequent hik- science at Redmond High School. He has ing, backpacking, and skiing trips across won many awards for his AP Environmen- Rick McGuire Washington’s wild spaces. Additionally, tal Science program including Amgen Karl’s work with environmental advocacy Science Teacher of the Year and Conserva- Thom Peters groups also profoundly impacted my de- tion Fund Environmental Educator for the veloping sense of humanity’s relationship United States. to wilderness. Mike has been active for over 20 years Mike Town I’m currently attending Whitman Col- on public land issues in Washington state. lege in Walla Walla. Despite the lackluster He has worked for eight years on the Wild Ken Wilcox location for any outdoors adventures, the Sky Wilderness Act and gave both the Sen- school has a surprisingly good outings ate and House testimony in congressional program and substantial student interest committees in Washington on this act. Ted Willhite in environmental issues. At present, I’m Mike and his wife Meg live in a solar considering a combined Politics-Environ- powered house outside Duvall. Laura Zalesky mental Studies major, and hope to develop into a more active player in NCCC affairs over the next few years. See New Members on page 6

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  3 NCCC Explores Park and Wilderness Additions Jim Dav i s Executive Director, North Cascades Conservation Council

e have all come to take for granted already been degraded by road-building, concerned about protecting the North the North Cascades National Park logging, off-road vehicles, and other uses. Cascades. We would like to invite you to W and adjacent Mount Baker and If we do not act, all of the “left-out” weigh in on additions you think need to Pasayten wilderness areas. We know and area will eventually be degraded, slowly be included. love the trails, streams, ancient forests, but surely foreclosing opportunities for Tell us about specific places that you and scenic viewpoints that have been pro- meaningful protection of these wild areas. know and love. Send us stories about tected by designation as national park and Our favorite unprotected places will not experiences that you have had in these wilderness areas. We all have our favorite be there for future generations to enjoy. special places. Tell us why you think these places that we visit again and again. Park and wilderness are the only truly places should be included. Your passion Many of us also treasure portions of the permanent ways of protecting all that we can help make it happen. North Cascades that were left out. love in the North Cascades. The North Contact us at ncccinfo@northcascades. Much of the land that was “left out” is Cascades Conservation Council is looking org or mail your comments to North currently protected as Inventoried Road- at the “left-out” land to determine what Cascades Conservation Council, P.O. Box less Area, a temporary administrative would be appropriate for additions. 95980, Seattle, WA 98145-2980. designation that could be reversed by fu- It is likely that you would not be reading ture administrations. A small portion has The Wild Cascades unless you also were www.northcascades.org

Wolves Get A Breather Jim Dav i s ederal endangered species protection. It is likely that wolves will remain un- the scientific review and opportunities for tion has been temporarily reinstated der federal endangered species protection public comment on wolf conservation in Ffor wolves in the Rocky Mountains until the Rocky Mountain states develop Washington. Please contact Jim Davis at (including eastern Washington). Earth adequate plans to assure recovery and [email protected] to join our Justice, Defenders of Wildlife, and multiple long-term conservation of wolves. action network and receive email alerts on other conservation groups have success- At the Washington state level, the Wash- wolf conservation. fully challenged the US Fish and Wildlife ington Department of Fish and Wildlife On a more exciting note, state and Service’s decision to delist wolves. Federal (WDFW) is putting together a scientific federal wildlife biologists have confirmed Judge Donald Molloy found that the con- review team to examine the draft Wash- existence of a wolf pack with pups in servation groups are likely to succeed with ington wolf conservation and management western Okanogan County. The pack their claim that the wolf delisting was un- plan put together by a citizen stakeholders includes at least two adults and six pups, lawful. He issued a preliminary injunction group. The outcome of the federal lawsuit with a significant chance that other adults restoring federal protection. could not be more timely and pertinent. are also present in the pack. This is the With only 1,500 wolves scattered across Key issues for scientific review will include first confirmed wolf pack in the state since a very large area, scientists successfully the extremely low conservation goals in trapping, hunting, and poisoning drove argued that genetic isolation would pre- the draft plan (i.e., 15 breeding pairs in wolves from the state in the 1930s. DNA vent recovery of the Rocky Mountain wolf the whole state), the potential genetic analysis has shown that the new pack is population. The judge recognized that the isolation of small wolf populations spread 100-percent purebred wolf and that it is wolf hunting planned by Wyoming, Mon- out across the state, the need for translo- related to wolves found in British Colum- tana, and Idaho (more than 500 wolves in cating wolves within the state (i.e., from bia. the next year) would severely limit wolf one small population to another), and the NCCC and other conservation organiza- movements and prevent the genetic ex- use of lethal wolf control methods (not to tions are sponsoring volunteer programs change that is needed between the small mention premature hunting). using remote cameras to monitor for ad- and isolated wolf populations in the Rocky NCCC and other conservation groups ditional wolf packs in the North Cascades Mountains. will be watching the scientific review and beyond. We expect to see additional The conservation and management process to assure that it is done with wolves moving into the North Cascades plans developed by the Rocky Moun- appropriate scientific rigor and transpar- from British Columbia and eastern Wash- tain states (especially Wyoming) are not ency. After the scientific review, WDFW ington. Stay tuned for updates as wolves adequate for the long-term conservation plans another round of public comments move back into the North Cascades. of wolves. There is too much emphasis on on wolf conservation in Washington. We wolf control and not enough on conserva- will keep you informed on the results of

4  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 Calendar of Events for the North Cascades Fall 2008

September September 13, Saturday – Ander- September 26-28, Friday-Sunday 27, Saturday – Damfino Lakes/ son Lakes. Easy hike to small and – Stehekin, Buckner Orchard Excelsior Pass. Moderate hike lovely lakes for berries and views Shed. Help replace the Buckner along the northwest edge of Mount of Mount Baker; 3 to 5 miles round Orchard tractor shed that col- Baker Wilderness to wildflower trip, 1,200 - 1,800 feet elevation lapsed under last winter’s snow. meadows and grand views; about 5 gain. For signup details, visit www. Work includes demolition of the miles round trip, 1,000 - 1,400 feet mountbakerwild.org building remains, salvage of reus- elevation gain. For signup details, able materials, and preparation for visit www.mountbakerwild.org September 13, Saturday – construction of the new shed. For Headlee Pass, Sperry Peak. A more information, visit www.nps. strenuous but rewarding hike with gov/noca/supportyourpark incredible mountain views as we ascend to the headwaters of the South Fork of the Stillaguamish s s s River. Blueberries/huckleberries may be the featured attraction; 4 More hiking and canoe trips take place most Saturdays July through miles round trip, 2,300 feet eleva- mid-September, free and open to the public. Sponsored by the North tion gain. May elect to continue Cascades Institute. Visit www.ncascades.org/programs/seminars/daytrips/ on to high tarns of Sperry-Vesper for details. highlands. Tom Hammond (206) Activities and events may be added to this schedule so visit www.north- 685-6203. cascades.org for the latest information. Happy summer — and don’t forget to wish our splendid national park a September 19-21, Friday-Sunday happy 40th! – North Cascades Wilderness Camp, Newhalem Creek Camp- ground. Camp at Newhalem Creek Campground, with programs to engage grassroots participants in October unprotected areas of the North Cascades. Saturday and Sunday North Cascades National Park: will include hikes to areas in the Celebrating 40 Years western Cascades, with a campout 1968 - 2008 program Saturday evening. jimda- [email protected] Honoring the past, inspiring the future September 20, Saturday – Cas- cade Pass Revegetation. Volun- October 3, Friday – North October 4, Saturday – North teers will hike to one of the most Cascades National Park, 40th Cascades Mystery Hike. beautiful locations in the park and Birthday Celebration. 6-9:30 Details will be provided at the help National Park Service staff p.m. at the Rainforest Pavilion, 40th Birthday Celebration the plant native plants. Cascade Pass is Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle. night before. An easy, guided accessed by a moderately strenuous Dinner, silent auction and pro- hike is planned with a late and remarkably scenic hike. Meet at gram. See page 6 for auction morning start. the Cascade Pass parking lot at 9:00 details. a.m., carry plants and tools to the pass and plant until 3:00 p.m. For The 40th anniversary logo for North Cascades National Park was designed by Regina Reyna, whose great work with parks and schools has inspired countless kids who will hope- more information, visit www.nps. fully grow up to love these places as much as we do. Thank you Regina! gov/noca/supportyourpark

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  5 40th Anniversary Dinner Celebrating North Cascades National Park including a Silent Auction to benefit the North Cascades Conservation Council October 3, 2008

Rainforest Pavilion com). Or if you can’t make the event, • Multi-volume set, Birds of North Ameri- Woodland Park Zoo please consider making a contribu- ca from Phil Zalesky ($500) tion to the cause either online at • Seattle Athletic Club, Northgate, 3-month family membership ($1,000) 6:00 – 7:00 p.m. www.northcascades.org or by mail at • Seattle Athletic Club, Downtown, Social hour and silent auction NCCC, PO Box 95980, University Sta- 3-month family membership ($1,000) tion, Seattle, WA 98145-2980. • Gift certificate from Kenmore Air from 7:00 – 9:30 p.m. Marc and Lynn Bardsley ($600) Thank you and we hope to see Dinner and program • Large attractive pottery bowl by Deb many of you on October 3rd! Martin ($75) Thanks to many kind contributors, we • Japanese woodblock print: “Mount Fuji have an outstanding lineup of items • Two tickets to the Seattle Symphony and reflection” by Gihachiro Okuyama that will be included in our silent auc- ($90) ($200) tion during the 40-year park celebra- • Room for two at the Hotel Monaco in • North Cascades photos by Tom Miller Seattle ($250) and Tom Hammond (varies) tion on October 3. Here’s a sampling, • Brunch for two at Salty’s of Alki ($75) • Attractive eco-friendly candles from including an estimated value for each • An original framed 16x20 painting by Ascents Candle Company ($45) item: Jennifer Lommers ($400) • Two passes to Seattle Underground The auction will be easy and fun. • Two mounted black-and-white prints Tours ($60) by expert photographer Bruce Barn- • Four passes to Pacific Science Center Everyone will receive a number at the baum ($1,200) and Imax film ($60) door and an auction sheet will accom- • Pacific Trail Pactech Performance • Autographed copy of Wildflowers of pany each item on display. All you’ll Jacket ($110, from Waterstone Brands) the Pacific Northwest by Mark Turner need to do is write down your number • Docker’s Golf Jacket ($75, from Water- ($30) and your bid on the sheet next to the stone Brands) • Set of three autographed hiking guides Cooper Jones Merino Wool Sweater by Ken Wilcox ($45) item. You will be able to bid on any- • ($200, from Waterstone Brands) • Annual membership to the Washington thing you like and as many times as • Cooper Jones men’s apparel ($200, Environmental Council ($40) you like, either before the program or from Waterstone Brands) • Gift certificate from Great Harvest during the break. Winning bids will be • Three computer cases and a profes- Bread Company ($45) announced during the second half of sional backpack from Brenthaven ($50 • Other items include Stanley tools, a and up) the program. wine basket, costume jewelry, dinners, • Woodland Park Zoo Family Fun Pack and much more! Visit the NCCC web If you wish to donate to the auction, for two adults and two kids ($50) site, www.northcascades.org, for more please email Ken (ken@nwwildbooks. information.

New Members, continued from page 3 Office. After entering private practice in ing the Wilderness Society, the Nature 1968, he began representing injured work- Conservancy, Save the Loomis, Rails-to- TED WILLHITE ers and their families and currently has Trails, the Washington Trails Association, Ted Willhite is a hiker who is dedicat- his own firm that emphasizes representa- the Sierra Club, the Methow Conservancy, ing his time and energy to protecting and tion of the catastrophically injured. Mr. and the Pacific Crest Trail Association. He expanding wilderness. Born and raised on Willhite has tried or appeared in cases in is a board member of the Olympic Coast a farm near Centralia, Wash., he retains nearly every county in Washington State. Alliance, a group charged with respon- his early memories of farm life and his He credits his respect for the needs and sibility of providing public input on the memories of hiking as an Eagle Scout. perspectives of individual communities of protection of the Olympic Coast National Mr. Willhite grew up in the Seattle area, the state to his nearly 40 years of experi- Marine Sanctuary. but received his A.B. degree from Whit- ence in trying cases to juries and working When not hiking, Mr. Willhite has a man College in Walla Walla, Wash. After with judges all across the state. “basecamp” in a remodeled garage in receiving his J.D. from the University of Mr. Willhite has been, or is currently, an Twisp, Wash., where he is active working Washington, he began practicing law with active member of numerous community to preserve and protect the Shrub Steppe the Washington State Attorney General’s and environmental organizations includ- biozone.

6  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 Chip Jenkins — Our new superintendent of North Cascades National Park Service Complex

Dav e Fluh a rt y

The North Cascades Conserva- ecological monitoring in NOCA, and made tion Council belatedly welcomes many other necessary improvements. Chip Jenkins to North Cascades Paleck also left many issues to be deter- National Park. mined and that makes Chip Jenkins’ job extremely challenging. The NPS is dealing with closures of hen Chip [Palmer] Jenkins Jr. much of the Stehekin river road due to took over the responsibilities and washouts and extremely difficult rebuild- W opportunities for North Cascades ing problems. The management has a National Park Service Complex on April tremendous opportunity to develop a 15, 2007, I was delighted. Through work holistic approach to management of the with Fort Clatsop National Memorial, I upper valley without roads. Flooding of had come to know Chip as an extremely the Stehekin valley in areas previously not adept and sensitive manager. His leader- prone to flooding has brought the need to ship was in large part responsible for develop a plan for the whole river cor- garnering public support for the eventual ridor. Also, NPS is in the midst of a major development of the Lewis and Clark Na- planning process for Ross Lake National tional Historic Park. When one reads the Recreation Area. In all these areas, Chip comments on the proposed legislation to brings a great deal of experience and skill expand Lewis and Clark NHP, it is a litany to the tasks. of support from the tribes, city and county Chip is a proponent of “no kid left administrators, historical societies, and inside.” In his words, “We need to develop environmental groups concerned. I regard many new opportunities to establish con- this type of diplomatic management style nections between youth and nature and as the best track record of what NCCC can Superintendent Chip Jenkins the outdoors. I hope the National Park expect from Chip Jenkins. Service and other land conservation orga- What does this mean for a wilderness nizations can take on this challenge with park in the North Cascades? It means a lot. pointment as chief of strategic planning great zeal. The future of America’s natural Chip Jenkins does not appear out of no- and assistant superintendent at Yosemite heritage depends on it.” wheresville. On his first backpacking trip National Park. For his remarkable work in NCCC is very much in agreement with to Yosemite valley he was as impressed by Yosemite developing its comprehensive Chip’s vision for creating a new and the friendly and helpful backcountry rang- management plan and other accomplish- diverse generation of park advocates and ers as he was by the magnificent setting. ments, Chip was awarded the Department is working to find ways to support it. This was reinforced through his college of Interior Honor Award for Superior Equally important is the need to supply years with many more trips to the Sierras. Service. the political and scientific support for As a senior majoring in geography and en- the NPS doing the “right thing” in NOCA: vironmental studies at UC Santa Barbara, Thus, in the best tradition of the NPS, the activities under this approach range Chip applied for seasonal work with the the young, bright, competent leaders are from maintaining the closure of the upper National Park Service. He was selected as rewarded with big responsibilities. And Stehekin road, moving people out of the a seasonal ranger in Stehekin in 1986 and that is what brings Chip and his family to Stehekin river flood plain, and ceasing the returned the summer of 1987. the North Cascades. Chip’s family includes his wife Laurie and two sons, Hayden (9) ecosystem degrading practice of stocking From his start in Stehekin, he moved and Logan (6). Laurie, who is also a natu- fish in NOCA. to the Denver Service Center and Indi- ral resource specialist for the NPS Pacific We look forward to working with Chip ana Dunes National Recreation Area as a West Regional Office, has lead responsibili- Jenkins and his staff on the issues facing GIS specialist. Next he became a natu- ties for the NW Forest Plan and Climate NOCA. ral resource specialist at Santa Monica Change. Mountains National Recreation Area and chief natural resource specialist at Black At NOCA Chip has been left a legacy of Canyon in the Gunnison National Park in a wilderness national park, with a mé- Colorado. Chip did his obligatory time in lange of unresolved issues. Bill Paleck, the the headquarters office of the NPS serv- previous superintendent, accomplished a ing as special assistant to Director Roger great deal. He succeeded in getting major Kennedy. As part of that duty he oversaw increases in budget and attracted top-level development of the first holistic website talent to management positions in NOCA. for the NPS, which then led to his ap- He also initiated coordinated mapping and GIS visualization, developed climate and

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  7 Global Warming and Wild Lands

Co n w a y Le o v y

On a planet that is warming globally, there soil management practices can contribute machines, invasive species, and air and is a powerful case for the preservation of as much as 14 percent to the goal of stabi- water pollution. All of these factors are hit- wild lands both as formal wilderness and lizing the amount of greenhouse gases in ting natural ecosystems at the same time. conservation areas and simply as roadless the atmosphere (Hansen et al., http://arxiv. A fourth principle is that the ecological areas that are left ‘unmanaged’. Although org/abs0804.1126). While this may not effects of global warming are extremely there are still special interest groups work- seem large, and the contribution of Pacific complex and we humans simply do not ing to confuse the American public about Northwest forests is relatively small com- know enough to be able to predict, let global warming, there is no doubt that pared with the dominant effect of tropical alone manage, their effects in natural warming is occurring or that its primary forests in the global total, mitigation of systems. cause is human activity. The most compre- global warming is such an enormous prob- All of these principles make a strong hensive and authoritative recent summary lem that every viable contribution to miti- case for maintaining and enlarging formal comes from the Fourth Report of the Inter- gation will need to be tapped. No patch of wilderness and conservation reserves and governmental Panel on Climate Change forest land is irrelevant to the solution. for leaving existing natural areas, such as (www.ipcc.ch/pdf/assessment-report/ar4/ While reforestation has an important roadless areas, alone. Some plants and syr/ar4_syr_spm.pdf) which states that role to play in mitigation worldwide, animals may be able to migrate to areas in ‘Warming of the climate system is unequiv- forests in Western Washington and which they are better adapted, whether at ocal . . .’ and ‘Anthropogenic warming Oregon reach their maximum potential higher elevation or toward cooler, wetter over the last three decades has likely had for sequestering carbon dioxide after at climates at the same elevation. Migration a discernible influence at the global scale least 60 years of growth, and preserving is fostered by extensive natural areas and on observed changes in many physical old-growth forest is a much more effec- impeded by human development, artificial and biological systems’. Global warming tive sequestration strategy than replant- clear-cuts, and roads. Wild areas allow already appears to be affecting forests ing clear-cut or thinned forests. Old trees for the preservation of mature and well- and grasslands of western North America are wonderful carbon storehouses, but established species. Human disturbances through earlier snowmelt runoff, drought, so is old soil, which is easily damaged by and mechanical management practices do increased insect infestation, and increased management practices. Thus, the best way not. Wild areas populated by well-estab- impacts of fire (www.cses.washington.edu/ to mitigate global warming in our region lished native species reduce the impact db/pubs/abstract517.shtml). A recent as- is to leave old and naturally regenerating of invasive species and pollution as well sessment of the extremely serious nature forests and natural grasslands alone. as the compounding of these assaults by of this problem can be found in the June Wild Lands and Adaptation global warming. The cool, moist microcli- 23, 2008 National Press Club presentation mates produced by well-established forests of climate scientist James Hansen at www. Because global warming involves rela- can go a long way to reducing local and columbia.edu~jeh1/2008/TwentyYearLa- tively rapid changes in temperature and even regional impacts of global warm- ter_20080623.pdf. the rates and distributions of precipitation ing. Finally, in the presence of our human What can we do in the face of the global and evaporation, its effect is to throw all ignorance, it may well be that ‘nature warming challenge to help preserve our natural systems out of balance. Forests knows best’ how to respond to global region and the planet for our children and natural grasslands adapted to the warming. Whether or not this is the case, and grandchildren and their descendents? climate of the past several thousand years it behooves us to maintain as much area as Responses to global warming are gener- (the Holocene) are becoming increasingly possible close to its natural state both as ally considered in two categories, mitiga- poorly adapted to the evolving climate. insurance against change and as a labora- tion and adaptation. Mitigation means This affects different species in different tory for understanding natural change and reducing or eliminating those activities ways. But one general principle is that natural adaptation processes. which are contributing to global warm- species with short generation times will ing: greenhouse gas emissions — mainly be able to adapt more quickly to changing Fire and Insects carbon dioxide — from fossil fuel burning conditions than species with longer gen- The factors influencing fire initia- and land-use change. Adaptation means eration times. In other words, the species tion and spread vary greatly in western adapting our human activities to minimize we humans tend to prefer, big trees and forests, and practices that would reduce the adverse effects of global warming. charismatic animals, will be disadvantaged the damaging effects of fire may be very Preserving wild lands contributes to both relative to insect pathogens and rapidly different in dry ponderosa forests and adaptation and mitigation. spreading invasive species. piñon-juniper forests of the interior west, A second general principle is that ma- subalpine forests of the northern Rockies, Wild Lands and Mitigation ture, well-established organisms are more and the Pacific slope forests of Washington Land-use change, principally deforesta- resilient to change than young organisms and Oregon. In the latter, fire is relatively tion, is a major contributor to greenhouse such as seedling trees. The latter can be rare, tending to occur in large stand- gas emissions and global warming. The easily wiped out by an excessively dry or replacing fires with a recurrence period of contribution of land-use change can be warm year that mature members of the several hundred years. In a global-warm- slowed and even reversed by preserving same species can survive. A third principle ing environment, such fires could have a forests and natural grasslands. Globally, it is that global warming tends to compound more damaging long-term impact than in is estimated that changes in forestry and the ecological challenges coming from Continued on page 9 many sources, mainly human entry with

8  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 Whitechuck River Update Rick McGuir e

In a somewhat encouraging develop- the Suiattle road. The Forest Service says an opportunity to reverse that. Rebuilding ment, the Forest Service has changed that the road upstream from the Rat Trap roads is expensive, and the Forest Service its preferred outcome for road 23, the junction is constructed across unstable is having a harder and harder time finding Whitechuck River road. TWC readers may volcanic deposits, and at high risk from the money to keep open its huge network recall that floods in 2003 wiped out the further washouts if repaired. While that is of crumbling roads. As fuel and construc- lower Whitechuck road massively. Since certainly true, it still ignores the fact that tion costs continue to climb relentlessly, then the Whitechuck valley has been most- the lower road also traverses many un- reality is asserting itself. Many, possibly ly motor-free, except for the occasional stable areas, and that it is the lower road most, Cascade roads will simply not be quad that finds its way in. NCCC believes that has washed out massively. rebuilt no matter who does or does not that in a place like the Whitechuck valley, It is the NCCC position that these roads want them to be. any road is a temporary road, and has long should never have been built in the first The main justification for rebuilding the recommended that the road not be rebuilt, place, and that the entire Whitechuck Whitechuck road appears to be easy access but instead converted to a multi-use non- road above the lower washouts should be to Glacier Peak so that it can be climbed in motorized trail. converted to trail. a weekend. That problem could be largely The Forest Service now appears to have The Whitechuck valley was the scene of solved by making the road bikeable, and moved toward the NCCC position, and possibly the first battle to preserve a valley there is no reason to further damage this now proposes to rebuild only the lower in the Cascades, when the Everett Moun- watershed and sink more tax dollars into half of the Whitechuck road, the portion taineers fought the first Forest Service log- a road that will inevitably wash out again. below the junction with road 27, the Rat ging there in 1927. They were unsuccess- NCCC will continue to push for decom- Trap Pass road which connects north to ful, but eight decades later we may have missioning the entire Whitechuck road.

Global Warming and Wild Lands Continued from page 8 the past because seedlings of some native ability, the best long-term strategy is to and extreme. Throughout the west, data species may no longer be able to survive leave forests alone. already show that the peak spring runoff in the altered climate. Thus, adaptation in now occurs more than a week earlier west-slope ecosystems includes steps to Water Quality and Floods than it did fifty years ago. This is an easily reduce fire initiation and fire spread. Four thousand years ago, China was predictable result of global warming that In general the older a Pacific slope forest already beginning to experience severe is likely to accelerate in the future. In a is, the more resistant it is to fire spread. flooding and soil erosion due to the rapid global warming climate, it makes no sense This is because the steady reduction of expansion of agriculture and deforesta- to continue intensive use of our mountain small undergrowth and ‘ladder’ growth tion. The wise, nearly legendary, Emperor forests as if nothing were changing. It (connecting the ground to tree crowns), Yu is said to have advised ‘To protect your makes good sense to leave these forests that happens as these forests age, inhib- rivers, protect your mountains’. We could alone. We should heed Emperor Yu’s sage its fire spread. Moreover, since lightning have no better advice today, particularly advice. in the face of global warming. It is well is relatively rare on the Pacific slope in Conclusion Washington and Oregon, most fires are known that clear-cut logging and the as- initiated by human entry and human activ- sociated road-building is a major cause of The North Cascades Conservation ity. Thus, it makes sense to leave as much soil erosion, water quality degradation, Council can be very proud of its record of of our Pacific slope forest alone as possible and damage to fisheries in streams and es- accomplishment in preserving wild lands to protect it from the damaging effects of tuaries. Recent floods in the Chehalis and in the Pacific Northwest. Now there is fire initiation and spread which will likely Skokomish River systems appear to have an important new reason for celebrating be more long-lasting and severe under a been made worse by clear-cutting in those those accomplishments and for mov- global-warming climate regime. watersheds. Throughout the Cascades, ing the wild land preservation efforts of clear-cutting and road-building are likely NCCC and other groups and individuals The argument for minimizing insect contributors to flood intensity, although it to a new level. Preserving wild lands is an damage is similar. The level of insect dam- is hard to quantify the degree of impact. important strategy for mitigation of global age to trees depends in part on the relative warming and for adapting to its damaging populations of grazing and carnivorous Water quality and flood protection are effects. species. The larger the ratio of carnivores enhanced by leaving forests alone, and this to grazers, the better is the natural control is truer than ever in a global-warming cli- I am indebted to Philip Zalesky for of the tree-damaging grazers. But, in our mate. As the climate warms, average snow pointing out the connection between region, the ratio of carnivores to grazers level will rise, the area and volume of global warming and the need to preserve tends to increase rapidly with maturity of snow-pack will decrease, winter precipita- wild lands and for developing the essential forest. Hence, to inhibit insect damage to tion is likely to become heavier, and floods ideas. v forests and its contribution to fire vulner- can be expected to become more frequent

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  9 Blanchard Mountain Victory: NCCC wins one in court

On July 8, 2008, King County Superior that of the Issaquah Alps east of Seattle. recreation destination. Court Judge Susan Craighead ruled in You can read the judge’s decision online Despite a wealth of “green” sounding favor of the North Cascades Conserva- at www.chuckanutconservancy.org. rhetoric issued over the past year by the tion Council (and co-plaintiff Chuckanut The Washington Department of Natural DNR, partial cuts and new road construc- Conservancy), finding that the DNR erred Resources and Public Lands Commissioner tion will virtually destroy this last coastal when it concluded that the agency’s new Doug Sutherland planned to intensify forest, disrupting major habitat corridors logging plan would have no significant logging across wide areas of Blanchard between Blanchard Mountain, Larrabee environmental impact on Blanchard Mountain in the very new future. State Park, and nearby wildlands, while Mountain in the Chuckanut mountains. Roads and logging would impact many fragmenting the largest unprotected road- The court required the DNR to begin less area left along the coast of the greater preparing an environmental impact study miles of existing trails, including the Lily and Lizard Lakes trail, Oyster Dome trail, Puget Sound region. (EIS) for its plan to significantly increase Groups on record opposing the DNR’s logging across two-thirds of the mountain. Pacific Northwest trail, and others. New road systems are planned high on the plan include the North Cascades Conser- The EIS will need to look at less harmful vation Council, North Cascades Audubon alternatives that ensure better protection south, east and north flanks of the mountain, radically altering the backcountry Society, Sierra Club, Bellingham Moun- of environmental and recreation values on taineers, Coast Watch Society (which facili- the mountain. experience currently enjoyed by tens of thousands of trail users each year. tated the Friends of Blanchard Mountain), The judge agreed that Blanchard Moun- and of course the Chuckanut Conservancy. tain is a very unique place. She wrote in Logging will scar a significant portion of the spectacular view from Oyster Dome. Rather than bringing everyone to the her decision, “Most important, Blanchard table to resolve the issues, Commissioner Forest represents a slice of near-wilderness Outstanding views from other high points, such as the North Butte trail (highest Sutherland hand picked a committee that in the middle of a rapidly urbanizing area. he believed would give him the result he Some 35,000 people currently use the trail in the Chuckanut mountains), South Chuckanut Mountain, the Pacific North- was looking for. Not surprisingly, each forest for recreation annually, and that of the groups opposing the compromise number can only be expected to grow as west trail, and Raptor Ridge will also be seriously impacted. Narrow trail buffers plan developed by Sutherland’s com- the area’s population increases and wild mittee were carefully excluded from the places become harder to find.” We should planned for some trails are inadequate to screen the logging impacts for trail users. process. Voices favoring expanded logging point out that the number of visitors is on Blanchard Mountain dominated the probably much greater now, since the In short, the wild and roadless back- committee. Even good science and the ex- numbers used by the DNR are based on country experience currently offered at pertise of numerous professionals familiar old and incomplete information. Public Blanchard Mountain will be lost to the with the mountain were not consulted. enjoyment of the Chuckanut mountains, communities that depend on the Chucka- nuts as an extremely valuable regional Because of the damage that was about including Blanchard, is likely on par with to be done and the fact that we believe the public will support a much more visionary plan for Blanchard Mountain, we joined the Chuckanut Conservancy in September Mining Update in the Cascades 2007 as co-plaintiff in a lawsuit against the DNR to stop the implementation of this There has been significant movement in D-Washington, who helped lobby against destructive plan. To date, we have enjoyed the world of mining in the North Cascades the mine. several important court victories; however, recently. While the BLM decision leaves room for the lawsuit is ongoing and some key issues potential future mining development, it have yet to be decided. We will report on Loowit is highly unlikely to pursue such action. the latest developments as they occur. We Most notably, the proposed copper Naturally, NCCC will keep a close eye on have an outstanding legal team repre- mine located closely northeast of Mount the situation, and will call our member- senting our case, led by attorneys Dave St. Helens (Loowit) at the headwaters of ship to action should it be required. Bricklin, Jennifer Dold and Toby Thaler of the Green River, has been dealt a serious Seattle. setback. After a groundswell of public Buckhorn Mine We have offered to discuss reasonable opposition, the federal BLM reversed a It would appear Crown Resources will alternatives and settlement terms with preliminary decision it made a year ago indeed mine gold out of Buckhorn Mine in the DNR which include assurance that the to issue the lease to a Colorado-based the Okanogan. After literally more than a trust would be compensated as required. mining operation. That groundswell was decade of battles with various mining com- Nevertheless, the agency has been unwill- comprised of over 33,000 comments, 99 panies, a settlement has been reached to ing to discuss potential solutions to the controversy. We expect the DNR will percent of which voiced opposition to the allow the mine to proceed. While not the continue to stand in the way of a reason- mine, according to agency representa- best news for the ecology of the area, sig- able solution that truly protects Blanchard nificant mitigation measures were won by tive Michael Campbell. We have not only Mountain, while also maintaining a viable ourselves and involved local citizenry such conservationists statewide, led by Okano- working forest that generates revenue for as the Gifford-Pinchot Task Force to thank, gan Highlands Alliance. Most importantly, the trust. but at least one congressional champion there will be no pit mining (all subsurface The fight to save Blanchard Mountain shaft), all ore processing will be done in too. isn’t over by any stretch, but this is a very “We stood up and demanded that BLM a (more) controlled environment in the important victory nonetheless. We still keep inappropriate development out of town of Republic, and an independent need your generous support. To all those sensitive lands, and fortunately they lis- entity will monitor water quality and water who have contributed to the cause, we tened,” said U.S. Senator Maria Cantwell, supply for years to come. simply wouldn’t have made it this far with- See Mining Update, page 21 out your support. Thank you!

10  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 For some a major dimension of North Cascades wildness is the vertical — the steep rise from valley forests through meadows and moraines and cliff and ice to the culminating summits. Fine country it is, surely, for climbing, or more properly, wilderness mountaineering, since here a climber needs not only the skill of rock and ice, but also those of trail walking, camping, backpacking, river fording, brush fighting, avalanche predicting, weather guessing and cross-country navigating — not perhaps on any single trip, but certainly during a season devoted to reaching summits deep in the back country. — Ha rv e y Ma nni ng

Left: Mount Despair rises Below: Two hikers a vertical mile above the descending the Copper floor of Goodell Creek Mountain Trail above the valley. — To m Ha m m o n d Chilliwack River valley. — Bo b Gunning

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  11 Happy Birthday to North Cascades National Park

In March of last year we celebrated the 50th anniversary of the founding of the North Cascades Conservation Council. This year, on October 3, we’ll have an even bigger event to get excited about: The 40th birthday of North Cascades National Park. The park was established by Congress and signed into law by President John- son in October 1968. (For details on this year’s event, see page ___. Note that last year’s celebration was sold out, so please register soon for what is sure to be an especially memorable evening.) 1968 was a tumultuous year in the grand old U.S. of A. A senseless war. Civil unrest. Chicago. Abominable murders. Looking back now, the nation seemed to be drifting toward an inescapable dark place. By a narrow margin, we pined for Richard Nixon to help get us back on course. On the corner of a page somewhere, the news media also reported on less dreadful things, like spaceships flung to the moon, a timely Kubrick film, and the designation of a new national park in Washington’s North Cascades.

12  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 Big Beaver flows east to join the Skagit River. Significant portions of this grand valley of old growth cedar, hemlock and Douglas fir were spared flooding through efforts of the NCCC. — To m Ha m m o n d

Forest, Big Beaver Valley. — Bo b Gunning

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  13 It was a spectacular new wilderness consequences if the park park that Harvey Manning would proposal went forward. later declare to have helped save the Republican Con- National Park Service from losing sight gressman Tom Pelly of its grander visions. of Seattle disagreed. At the signing ceremony on October In January 1960, he 2, 1968, President Lyndon Johnson, his introduced the first term nearly up, looked at the report- bill in Congress es- ers in the Rose Garden and suggested tablishing a study that they might report a little more on team for the new the happier news and perhaps a little national park. less on the other. His Democratic As Johnson signed, Lady Bird John- counterpart son looked on with Stuart Udall and in the North Senator Scoop Jackson, the affirmed Cascades champion of the bill to create the remained new national park. The First Lady unenthused and the Secretary of the Interior, too, and was were conservationists of the highest replaced park. order, and like Jackson, were genu- by voters Ulti- inely pleased with the culmination of in 1965 mately, a ten-year grassroots effort to create with howev- the park, a campaign that was led, of the er, Evans course, by the North Cascades Conser- elec- supported vation Council (NCCC). Patrick Gold- tion of Jackson’s sworthy, our chairman of the board, Lloyd Meeds. In bill, and shook the President’s hand, though May 1967, Everett’s senior the rest, as this historic photo can’t begin to con- senator, Henry M. Jackson, introduced they say, is vey the immense amount of personal a bill to create the national park. history. energy and insight Patrick invested in “If you get up a parade,” he told the In this issue of The Wild Cascades, the cause, even before the NCCC was NCCC several years earlier, “I’ll lead it we have reprinted several articles from formed. His great work and chairman- on in.” Meeds introduced companion past issues that speak to some of the ship of the NCCC continues to this legislation in the House. The NCCC critical moments in the campaign to day, as does that of co-founders Polly brought a parade of public support to create the park. We hope you enjoy Dyer and Phil and Laura Zalesky. the field hearings when hundreds of them as we all reflect on the great It is interesting today to look back people showed up to testify in Seattle effort made by many, including tens through past issues of The Wild Cas- in favor of the park. of thousands of park advocates across cades, from the late 1950s through the Though the park envisioned in the the nation who signed petitions, wrote 1960s, and watch the story of the park Jackson-Meeds legislation was consid- letters, testified at congressional field unfold, month by month, year by year. erably smaller than many had hoped hearings, or otherwise helped make Harvey and Betty Manning, editors for, the 1967 bill to create a park, any the park a reality. of the NCCC’s journal, put together park, was a major turning point. The The complete story of the park is a host of compelling essays, articles debate over boundaries intensified. captured in Harvey Manning’s recent and opinions, including clippings In August, Congressman Pelly intro- book, Wilderness Alps: Conservation from local and national newspapers, duced a similar park bill, but for a and Conflict in Washington’s North from Seattle to Wenatchee, Belling- larger area much more consistent with Cascades, edited by Ken Wilcox, 480 ham, Denver and New York. Harvey’s the NCCC’s proposal for a new park. pages, with many historic maps and famously spirited commentary, the Jackson and Meeds amended their photos; available online at www. Irate Birdwatcher, helped readers proposal for the better. Governor Dan nwwildbooks.com or www.northcas- sort through some of the key issues Evans, a long-time park and wilder- cades.org). of debate, which by some accounts ness advocate, convened a group to Though Harvey left our world included the likely destruction of develop a compromise bill, attempting shortly before the book was pub- the regional economy and other dire to quell some of the objections to the lished, his contributions to not only

14  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 the history of the North Cascades, but the reality of the park itself, cannot be overstated. Betty continues to edit The Wild Cascades, a largely volunteer effort of her own that she began with Harvey in the early 1960s. Needless to say, we are enormously grateful for her own tireless contributions. At the October 3 celebration, ban- quet and silent auction at the Wood- land Park Zoo’s Rainforest Pavilion, we are fortunate to have as our guest speakers Peter Jackson, conservationist and son of the late senator, and Roger Contor, the first superintendent of Senator Scoop Jackson, Superintendent Roger Contor and Representative North Cascades National Park. Other Meeds meet. invited guests include Governor Dan Evans, the current superintendent, Chip Jenkins, the executive director of North Cascades Institute, Saul Weis- berg, NCCC founders Patrick Golds- worthy, Polly Dyer, and Phil and Laura Zalesky, elected officials, writers and others, including a who’s-who of North Cascades advocates, revelers and insti- gators. We hope you’ll join us in wishing the North Cascades National Park a happy 40th.

— Ken Wi l c o x

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  15 Climber viewing Inspiration Glacier and Klawatti Peak from a point near Eldorado Peak.

— Bo b Gunning

16  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 Ba c k c o u n t r y Cascade Crest — Golden Horn Tr av e l s by To m Ha mm o n d I dusted off the Washington Pass USGS we’d meet at the crest — not meeting until 7.5' map and immediately was drawn to Monday. I should think this plan pretty the Tower Mountain (8,444') – Golden authoritative for researching usage and Horn (8,366') complex. I have long looked landform of the area. at this rugged arrangement of the Cas- Ten months ago I visualized the Swamp cade crest, but have been put off by the Creek route while studying the map (a long approach on the spectacular but complex journey with no trail) to camp at exposed Pacific Crest trail, or the prospect the exact spot where I actually ended up of Swamp Creek. I’ve been in enough — literally on the craggy ridge of the crest, bug attacks, slide alder and devil’s club directly between the two granite giants thrashers, and other unpleasantness to NOTE: More than a year ago, the North — Golden Horn to the north and Tower know better than to “walk” up Swamp. Cascades Conservation Council formed a Mountain to the south. The name alone could be seen as a chal- committee to study the crest region of the But I get ahead of myself a bit, because lenge to a seasoned outdoorsperson. North Cascades to include the Liberty Bell we all know there can be no talk of North But now I had more incentive: become area, and lands bordering the Pasayten Cascades without considering the weather. knowledgeable about this area to be able Wilderness on the south and the North Lightning is always on the mind, and each to communicate clearly and effectively to Cascades National Park on the east. Often of the last four visits to the area (most convince people that this place should mistaken as a part of the park, this spec- recently 2005), ol’ Sparky has made a fear- be recognized with/by federal legislation tacular 300,000-acre area of high peaks, inducing visit. in the form of a redrawn national park glaciers and meadows is the epitome of I’ve taken big falls, nearly been swept boundary, a wilderness area, or both. It “roadless but unprotected”. The NCCC is and/or crushed by avalanches a few times, would be Swamp Creek because it is so currently researching this “Study Area” to had bears in camp, but the most scared direct, and I wanted to see all of the land develop a proposal for its protection. The I’ve ever been is when lightning is present, first hand, from swampy forest bottoms to following article is part of the research, and virtually every time I’ve even seen high glaciated peaks. and is part of a greater effort to under- lightning in the North Cascades in my 25 stand the challenges and opportunities Happily, fellow board member Ken years of explorations in the range, it has before us. Wilcox and longtime mountain man/Bell- formed over the Methow mountains. With ingham resident Kiko Anderson would be forecasts calling for record heat, a 20 per- SWAMP CREEK joining me, and in a rather unusual way: cent chance of T-storms — getting worse j u ne 28-j u ly 1, 2008 by traversing from The Needles across the as time progressed — I knew we had divide, and up to my high camp. I’d come The far northeast Cascades (Methow to get the mission in before the weather in from the west, they from the east, and mountains, Pasayten Wilderness), have broke. always been something of a stretch for me. That is, I prefer the more glaciated and densely forested areas on the west side of the range, and of course they’re more proximate to my house in the Whulge. Having said that, I’ve climbed and otherwise trekked this country over the decades, and each time have found it to be an exercise in contrast — where East really does meet West in a most dramatic fashion. Dramatic contrasts in terms of geology, meteorology and perhaps most importantly, metaphorically, as we wrestle to understand how such an important area is not included or recognized by some form of federal protection. Last year, during one of the NCCC board’s many discussions about what to do with this entire area — the Granite/Can- yon creek drainages of the upper Skagit, and the Methow headwaters, I decided I had better go to this place and visit for a few days to really understand what’s at issue: questions of land use, values, worth to the community, and worth in its own Upper Snowy Lake on the left marks one of the headwaters of the Skagit River right. Now, and 100, and 1,000 years from in the United States. The headwaters of the Methow River flow below Mount now. Hardy to the right.

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  17 As it turned out, Saturday and Sunday it evoked thoughts of the Karakorum for exceptionally snowy year, this is espe- found temperatures in the 100s in the him — and he’s been there. I’m sorry they cially true. I was happy to have the snow valleys of the Methow (ended up being 93 weren’t with me while on the summit, — plenty of water available, and it made in Seattle), and even though Swamp drains but they were scrambling/climbing on the for wonderful roaring falls near and far. west to the Skagit, it has many characteris- nearby Needles and I’m sure sweltering Even still, the hot weather was making tics of eastern valleys. just like I was. Indeed, the only reason I quick work of the snowpack. The hot It was daunting staring up at the track- left the summit area was to get back to a weather also worked up more significant less deep forest of an unknown craggy place of shade. convection on Monday — this would be an wilderness as I left the car along Highway Sunday afternoon and evening revealed interesting evening with a very real chance 20. No trailhead, no signs, just North more treats and secrets of this amazing of T-storms — I put it at 50-50 based on Cascades. I missed the start of the route place — the literal headwaters for three cloud buildup at 15:00. Not soon after Ken for the first half mile by 100 yards, and rivers carving their way out of the jumble and Kiko arrived, the same area of action thus ended up with plenty of scratches, of the North Cascades. I think best of all from the previous day (Winthrop) began cuts and misery. It was very difficult. And was the alignment of the crest cradling to fire off lightning —10 to 15 miles? We hot. Mercifully the trees offered shade, Upper Snowy Lake (flowing southeast, but were safe. Then they closed in from the and luckily there were no bugs to speak draining west to the Skagit), the West fork south. In an interesting study of atmo- of during the trip. Higher in the valley I Methow River (flowing north, but drain- spheric science, the clouds far to the south hit the route perfectly, found log crossings ing east to the Columbia) — within yards (I guess around the Snoqualmie Pass area, of the major “creeks” (raging with snow- of each other on a low pass; and Tower maybe even Tahoma) anviled out, and the melt on the blistering day), and found the Creek flowing away east. The snow for my high cirrus that resulted moved over us, swamps of Swamp Creek to be spectacular drinking water was destined for the jetties shading the building convective towers, areas of wildflowers. Very reminiscent of Astoria and Ilwaco by way of Tower thus serving to keep them from build- of Mertensia Pass, and other very select Creek-Methow, while the snows under my ing to the critical altitude. The snowpack company of high western drainages. The feet would be at the San Juan Islands in produced some avalanches, including two natural filtration is obvious and apparent short order. cornices that broke off right before my everywhere. Saw some deer tracks, goat I should take time now to note the vis- very eyes! One right from the summit into tracks (higher), but most impressive of all tas. That is, there are certain special places Nugget Lakes, and the other from the sum- were the spiders. Thousands of spiders in in the Cascades where one can see peaks mit of Methow Pillar (7460'). Each block the valley — the entire forest floor was on the horizon in every direction. Both of snow was about the mass of a large SUV, one giant interconnected spider web. Methow Pillar (7460’) and Golden Horn and each fell through more than 1,000 feet (Kiko and Ken think it may be algae or offered the “endless waves of mountains”. in a matter of seconds. Fortunately, Kiko fungus, but I’m convinced some or most of In every direction were wave after wave was there to witness the Pillar event. I the material is spider silk. Eating spiders of mountains, crags, peaks, glaciers and explained to him that they look and sound and webs at every step reinforces my spires — as far as the eye could see! Most better from below, but it sure is safe to opinion.)* surprising to me was how many waves watch an avalanche from above. Just then Six hours of blood, sweat and tears there are to the east of the northeastern a flicker of cloud-to-ground lightning (literally) to high camp, but oh so worth it. mountains. The only relief from the relief struck some 6 miles away, in the Mazama Camp was made and after food and rest, was the runout of the Methow to the Co- area. Minutes later a forked set of bolts lit I made it to the summit of Point 7460 (I lumbia River — about 20 degrees of arc of up the Chelan trench — did it hit the sum- propose it be named Methow Pillar). The the 360-degree field of view. Of course, to mit of Devore? Closer still than any yet. crest here is a huge wall in a collection of the west, the mountains aren’t endless, as We were on a summit with lightning in walls facing east that runs about 4 miles. A that direction provides the largest fetch of the area — time to leave. wall of incredible color and texture, and at water in the solar system. In a twist of glory befitting the effort points (like the Pillar) rising a vertical half- We were supposed to climb Tower on involved with choosing to be there, the mile above the valley, including overhung Monday, but as I approached Saturday, it clouds parted at the last second — we cliffs of 1,000 feet. became obvious to me that I for one would could count the number of raindrops hit- The next three days found me on a most certainly NOT be taking on that hulk- ting our tiny camp, while immediately east wonderfully relaxed pace fitting of vaca- ing complex of shattered rock, steep snow, and south of us, lightning flashed across tion. I visited the summit area of Golden and fangs of vertical granite. Tower pretty the sky until well after sunset. Horn Sunday morning by 10 a.m., with much set Ken and Kiko straight too as they Tuesday dawned clear again, hot again, temperatures already in the 70s ambient worked around it — just move away from and this time with convection building at 8,350'. In the 2-1/2 hours on that lower Tower in an orderly fashion. Perhaps as a from 10 a.m. Perfect timing. We descended summit, when I wasn’t resting comfort- dedicated trip another time. through Swamp Creek, and now more ably out of the sun behind huge blocks of Sunday night found some convection knowledgable, we picked a delightful golden, salmon pink and black rocks, I in the Methow-Chewuch-Winthrop sec- route out with hardly any scratching and was scampering to the north side to look tor, but no lightning! Just another perfect tearing of the body. far far down to the Nugget Lakes — by my evening — I stayed up ‘til 11 to watch the * * * evaluation worth far more as a clean water last fading light and enjoy the Milky Way This is a special place, worthy of source than the value of any gold. But the on a moonless night. Shorts, teeshirt, and recognition by our government. I am so east face is the best: A riven, dihedral- comfy socks at 7,280'. thankful to be able to see, live and experi- laced puzzle of immense proportions. It took Ken and Kiko a bit longer than ence such treasures. The opportunity for Indeed, when Kiko got a look at the face expected on Monday. It usually works that discovery is endless, now and for all future from Methow Pillar (7460') on Monday, way in the North Cascades, and with an Continued on page 20

18  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 The east wall of Golden Horn.

Mixed virgin forest of Douglas fir and lodgepole pine carpet the valley floor of Swamp Creek. Porcupine Peak is Golden Horn, Tower Mountain locale north of S.R. 20, in Designated Roadless Area seen above. (DRA), North Cascades. —To m Ha mm o n d pho t o s —Patr ick Go l d s w o r th y m a p

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  19 Reiter Foothills National Forests ORV Travel ORV Problems Management Update

The Washington State Department of Natural Resources (DNR) has indicated j u ly 2008 that it intends to change the makeup of an advisory committee it had put together for Our national forests are midway of one percent of the current total. We are planning the future of the Reiter Foothills through a four-year process of ORV travel concerned about the enormous environ- area between Gold Bar and Index. The management planning, to implement mental and social consequences of such a Reiter area has been completely overrun the Travel Management Rule. The rule is massive change, especially with the Forest by ORVs which have caused breathtaking the long-delayed implementation of the Service’s lack of resources to monitor dam- levels of destruction there. The DNR had Nixon-Carter executive orders on off-road age and enforce its own rules — conse- formed a “stacked” committee, composed vehicle (ORV) route designations. Each for- quences such as wildlife habitat degrada- almost entirely of ORV enthusiasts, to ad- est needs to publish a Motor Vehicle Use tion and fragmentation, noise impacts on vise them on the area. But their big loss of Map (MVUM) by December 2009, showing natural soundscape, displacement of quiet NCCC’s lawsuit against them on Blanchard designated routes. recreationists out of these areas, and other Mountain, where they had formed another In the travel management process, significant impacts. such stacked committee, and complaints ORV interests will seek to entrench ORV The Forest Service has been conducting from conservationists evidently prompted use on as many miles of trail as possible a safety analysis of the proposed changes, them to reconsider whether another (including existing hiker/horse trails), in including the proposed “mixed-use” roads, stacked committee would work to get as many unprotected roadless areas as which should result in some of the pro- them what they wanted — which in the possible, to prevent future wilderness posed new routes being dropped for safety case of Reiter appears to be the designa- designations. Many Americans care about reasons. Washington state does not have a tion of the area as an ORV “park,” or, in these unprotected roadless areas in our statute setting an age limit on non-street- plain English, an ORV sacrifice zone where national forests – the Clinton roadless rule legal ORV use (there is no drivers’ license they can run rampant and destroy the comment period drew more public com- required for kids to drive a 4-wheeled ATV place. It remains to be seen whether DNR’s ments than any other federal rulemaking “quad”), so mere children could be driving change of attitude is real, or as seems (environmental or otherwise) in United these machines at high speeds on roads likely, merely window dressing after their States history. Most would not want to that are also used by logging trucks, pas- humiliating loss in court over Blanchard see the roadless areas turned into ORV senger cars, etc., with increased potential Mountain. NCCC will be closely involved. sportsparks — but that is what some ORV for tragedy. Look for updates in future issues of The users want. In the fall of 2008, the Okanogan and Wild Cascades. In Washington state, the Forest Service Wenatchee Forests plan to issue maps of is also beginning to use the 2005 “Hinkle their “proposed action” while publishing a bill” (HB 1003) that allows road managers Notice of Intent in the Federal Register to to allow non-street-legal ORVs on desig- begin the National Environmental Policy nated dirt roads (such as national forest Act (NEPA) process of environmental logging roads as well as local county and review, probably through one or more Swamp Creek town roads) on a case-by-case basis. Draft Environmental Impact Statements. Continued from page 19 On the east side of the North Cascades, NCCC will be actively engaged in the NEPA the Okanogan and Wenatchee National process, and will notify its members when Forests have the heaviest ORV use of the public meetings and comment periods generations, should we choose protection. the national forests in Washington state. are scheduled. Not only to recognize and protect, but Okanogan and Wenatchee held public On the west side, the Mount Baker- celebrate! meetings in the summer of 2006 and again Snoqualmie National Forest has not yet in the summer of 2007. NCCC members at- publicly announced the process, although *Postscript to Tom’s spider account tended these public meetings, scrutinized it still plans to complete it by the end of Tom is right. The filaments he mentions the web-based draft maps of possible new 2009. The MBS and Olympic National For- are the work of prodigious numbers of routes, and submitted detailed comments ests are considering proposed actions that spiderlings. Spiders, like pigs, can’t fly. But which the Forest Service is now process- minimize the NEPA issues by making no they can “balloon”, often for long distanc- ing. The 2007 draft proposals included changes in the current management direc- es, by using a silken thread as a device to 1,007 miles of new miles where non- tion in those forests. Unlike the Okano- keep them airborne after letting go from a street-legal ORVs could ride on existing gan and Wenatchee Forests, the MBS and treetop or a prominent rock into the wind. roads, plus 113 miles of proposed new Olympic Forests have relatively few trails Like a dandelion seed, the wind can carry ORV routes other than existing roads, currently open to motorized use, and are the tiny spider until downdrafts return it and only 5 miles of trails where ORV use not proposing a major opening of logging to earth. Like their winged relatives, the would be reduced. This would constitute roads to “mixed use” by non-street-legal insects, their powers of dispersal are a key a doubling of the miles where one could ORVs. to their ecological success. ride a non-street-legal ORV in Wenatchee — arl o r s g a a r d —John S. Edwards and Okanogan National Forests, while K F ORV closures were proposed for one-half

20  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 Pratt River Update Rick McGuir e

ongressman Dave Reichert’s bill to add the Pratt River and some sur- Crounding areas to the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, and to designate the Pratt River as a “Wild River” under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, introduced in November 2007, has recently attracted co-sponsor- ship from fellow House members Norm Dicks and Jay Inslee. Meanwhile, the Forest Service has issued the long-awaited “Environmental As- sessment” document for the Pratt Connec- tor trail. NCCC opposes the construction of the Pratt Connector trail (falsely called a “reconstruction” by the Forest Service), which would be built from the Taylor River area to the Pratt, because it would have adverse impacts on winter and spring wildlife habitat in the lower Pratt River valley. Currently, there is no trail leading “to” the lower Pratt valley. There is a trail in the Pratt valley itself, which is reached by fording the Middle Fork Snoqualmie river. The elevation at the mouth of the Pratt is only 900 feet. It is a fairly large, broad valley, and its position at the western edge of the Cascades means that it is under snow for much less of the year than other undisturbed valleys located far back in the interior of the Cascades. —Patr ick Go l d s w o r th y m a p This long snow-free season, combined with the fact that the lower Pratt valley is difficult for people to access — the river steep cliffs, well suited as trail destina- the Forest Service can be made to look at is high in springtime — make the lower tions. The “East Balcony” looks up the trails which would offer attractive hiking Pratt valley an early season haven for all Middle Fork toward Dingford Creek, with to the public. Trailbuilding money is in species of wildlife, precisely the time when a rich carpet of forest below. The “West short supply, and NCCC is unwilling to undisturbed “core security” habitat, i.e., Balcony” looks southwest down the broad, see it spent on a trail which would not places people do not go, is most critical. lower Middle Fork valley, catching the last only be unattractive to hike on but which The lower Pratt provides a rare low-eleva- rays of the sun in winter as it sets behind would severely harm wildlife habitat. Look tion place free from human disturbance Rattlesnake Ridge far in the distance. An- for updates in future issues of The Wild when higher elevations are blanketed in other splendid viewpoint is on the lower Cascades. deep snow. It is accessible via fording the east slopes of Quartz Mountain, looking Middle Fork Snoqualmie in summer and up the Middle Fork and Taylor River val- fall when wildlife have moved to higher leys. elevations. NCCC believes that because of All of these viewpoints are about a these values, no trail should be built from thousand feet above the Middle Fork val- Taylor River to the Pratt. ley floor and would provide great hikes NCCC also believes that there are far easily accessed from the new Middle Fork better places in the Middle Fork Sno- campground. Yet the Forest Service has Mining Update qualmie to spend scarce trailbuilding steadfastly refused to consider any of them Continued from page 10 money. By building a number of shorter as trail destinations and remains fixated trails climbing to viewpoints above the on building a valley bottom trail from Taylor to the Pratt, when there are already Mining Law of 1872 Middle Fork Snoqualmie, the Forest Efforts continue to revise the outdated Service could provide far more attractive four other valley bottom trails in this area, but no trails climbing to viewpoints. and destructive General Mining Law of hiking opportunities. NCCC and other 1872. conservation groups have spent count- NCCC and sister groups plan to do Again, Senator Maria Cantwell is tak- less hours over many years combing the everything possible to stop the Forest ing a leadership position, trying to work Middle Fork valley to investigate trailbuild- Service from building the Pratt Con- legislation through congress to do away ing opportunities. NCCC recommends that nector, which would traverse an area of with this law that gives away our public trails be built to the Garfield Mountain uninteresting forest, well back from the resources for pennies, but leaves us, the “West Balcony,” and “East Balcony.” Both river. Even Ira Spring conceded it would taxpayers, with multi-million/billion dollar of these areas have fairly flat areas above be an unattractive trail. NCCC hopes that clean-up costs, and a trashed ecosystem.

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  21 Books from NCCC

Wilderness Alps: Conservation and Conflict in Washington’s North Cascades by Ha rv e y Ma nni ng a nd NCCC Published by Northwest Wild Books 2007 ISBN-13: 978-0-9793333-0-9 $24.95 cover price. Special price to members: $20.00 incl. Washington sales tax. 480 pages, with maps, historic photos, and beautiful color images by Pat O’Hara, Dave Schiefelbein, Tom Hammond and others. Early praise for the book: “ . . . a splendidly partisan account of citizens’ fight for wilderness in the North Cascades.” —Estella Leopold “This book has so much: the characters, from the First Ones of long ago to the mili- tary explorers, the miners and railroad people, the loggers and grazers, the fools and charlatans, the promoters and speculators, the dam builders and ubiquitous Chambers of Commerce, the politicians — all swaggering and posturing across the stage, some- times with such forceful schemes that one wonders how there is still, now, so much left.” —Brock Evans

100 Hikes in the North Cascades National Park Region by Ha rv e y Ma nni ng 3rd edition, Mountaineers Books, Seattle, Washington, 2000. $12.00 for members; $15 non-members, includes sales tax and shipping.

to o r d e r : Wilderness Alps: Conservation and Conflict in Washington’s North Cascades $24.95 (including sst); members $20.00 (including sst); mailing $3.95. 100 Hikes in the North Cascades National Park Region Members: $12; non-members $15, including sst and mailing.

NCCC, Post Office Box 95980, University Station, Seattle, WA 98145-2980

22  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008 join the North Cascades Conservation Council

The North Cascades Conservation Council depends on your support!

Be part of a vibrant grassroots network of advocates for protection of the unique lands, waters, plants, wildlife, and wilderness of the North Cascades. Glacier Peak from Mt. Pugh by Karl Forsgaard Membership Application / Renewal / Gift / Donation Form

• Help us keep the North Cascades n a m e______address______wild and wondrous for generations to come. em a il______cit y/s tat e /zip______• Be part of a vibrant grassroots If you love our great North Cascades wilderness as much as we do, support the NCCC with a network of advocates for protection generous IRS tax-deductible contribution in the amount of:

of the unique lands, waters, plants, $10 Living Lightly/student $30 $50 $100 $250 $500 $1000 wildlife, and wilderness of the North Other______I’d like to volunteer. Contact me. Cascades. Please send me occasional action alerts by email • The North Cascades Conservation Donations are welcome for our work Direct my donation to these NCCC Programs Council depends on your support. (suggested amounts) Wilderness and Park Expansion $250 Wildlife Conservation $500 Forest and Watershed Protection Member benefits $1,000 Blanchard Mountain Preservation • The Wild Cascades — Premier jour- $2,000 Non-Motorized Recreation nal of the North Cascades, featuring Other:______Stehekin Valley Protection people, places, and politics — lively and unafraid to challenge the status Gift Membership to: Gift Membership from: quo. 3 issues per year. gif t n a m e______your n a m e______address______message______• E-mail Action Alerts on timely issues cit y______affecting the national park, national s tat e______zip______forests, wilderness and other wildlands in the North Cascades region. Membership includes subscription to NCCC’s Send check or money order and this form to: • 20% Discount on Wilderness Alps, excellent journal, The Wild Cascades. Laura Zalesky, Membership Chair a North Cascades history by Harvey NCCC is a 501(c)(3) organization. All donations are tax deductible. 2433 Del Campo Drive Manning and NCCC. Everett, WA 98208

The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008  23 NCCC Attempts Native Plant Restoration Ken Wi l c o x We ended the half-day outing making much fairy dust by stripping dry seeds from countless stalks of a common bunch- grass, one of 150 native grass species in the North Cascades. Boss Brondi noted that the seed would be stored, then start- ed, then transplanted to the overlook over the next couple of growing seasons. We dutifully left some stalks unstripped so that the plants could enjoy a little reseed- ing of their own. As the afternoon heat set in, Brondi begged and pleaded for us to stop, stop, stop already. We each looked at Athena’s spectacularly plump ziplock bag of seven billion perfect seeds, then at our own skimpy baglets of micro-detritus, and all agreed that it was just too darn nice a day to continue “working.” So off we scurried to various mini-adventures, followed by an excellent potluck dinner at the Newhalem Creek Campground. Our supper-by-committee was entirely tasty, if not abundant, given that four days later, Kris and I were Diablo Lake Overlook, Snowfield and Colonial in distance. still eating leftover spaghetti. Our splendiferous day ended with a A dozen NCCC members and a dozen hopping in their trash bags. presentation on these Wilderness Alps by more assorted park lovers and passersby But behave we did as bags and bags of yours truly, with Patrick Goldsworthy, Phil spent a comfy sunny Saturday in July at the non-native tansy (/Tanacetum vulgare/) Zalesky and Tom Hammond giving stellar Diablo Lake Overlook eradicating invasive were pulled up by the roots. Tansy has be- performances in supporting roles. The plants and collecting grass seed for future come a bit of a pest along the North Cas- camping public also seemed to thor- propagation. Park horticulturist, Michael cades highway corridor east of Newhalem, oughly enjoy the show and no shots were Brondi, kindly ordered us about, keeping and the plant was certainly showed a thing fired. All in all, we done good. We just an eagle eye on quality control, ever ready or two by our intrepid group of weed might have to make this an annual event. to scold anyone who might go off bunny ravagers.

The Wild Cascades Non-Profit Organization Journal of the North Cascades Conservation Council U.S. POSTAGE Post Office Box 95980 University Station PAID SEATTLE, WA Seattle, Washington 98145-2980 PERMIT No. 8602 ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

24  The Wild Cascades • Summer/Fall 2008