Precinct 11 Middle Swan – Middle Swan Road to Ellen Brook
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Precinct 11 Middle Swan – Middle Swan Road to Ellen Brook 1 Summary Middle Swan – Middle Swan Road to Ellen Brook The Swan River makes loose, relatively regular graceful meanders forming in places a quite steep river valley. The river channel is quite narrow until it broadens downstream from the Jane Brook confluence. As the river has remained 'untrained', the water forms an attractive irregular pathway through the often quite deep river valley. Several tributaries and smaller drainage lines enter the Swan River at this precinct. These tributaries have gouged fluvial valleys through the soft sandy plains. Small wetlands have formed in the depressions of the undulating plains. There is a narrow strip of indigenous fringing vegetation along this section of the river. The communities are dominated by flooded gum and swamp paperbark. The river banks are lined with emergent reeds and in places where the riparian vegetation has been removed a variety of weeds have invaded the bank. There are several locations were steep unvegetated banks have eroded due to periods of high water and consequently unattractive scars are left on the river banks. One of the most dominant landscape elements in the precinct is the vineyards. The rows of the lush green vines against the ploughed red earth provide a distinctive and attractive landscape feature. In addition, there are several historic buildings in the area which provide focal points in the viewscapes. The distribution of the residential dwellings and agricultural sheds is sparse compared to further downstream. Access to the river by the public is quite difficult due to rural land lots adjacent to most parts of the riparian area. There is a small reserve at Middle Swan and an informal path to the river channel at All Saints Church. 2 Resource Information Biophysical Processes Adjacent to Herne Street the drainage lines form several pools and small wetlands areas. Similarly, the Pow Street wetland Geological Processes occurs in a depression adjacent to the Swan River and a small tributary. Several small wetlands occur north of Jane Brook. The Swan River flood plains and channel are classified as part of Many of the tributaries and wetlands are ephemeral. the Quaternary alluvial deposits (DCE, 198.0). Adjacent to the river banks are the older Pleistocene deposits of the Guildford Bathymetry Formation. These deposits consist of alluvium which in this area is variably lateritised and podsolised to different extents. To the Beyond Middle Swan Road, the river is very shallow with recently west of the channel area are the Bassendean Sands and more formed sand banks. It is likely that the sand banks have formed recent peaty sands in the swales and depressions. since colonial settlement as early settlers were able to navigate right up to the Ellen Brook confluence which is now very difficult. The channel and banks are identified as being part of the Swan Soil Association which is terraces of red earths and duplex soils Flooding (McArthur and Bettenay, 1974). Away from the river flood plains on the western bank, is the Guildford Association which is The flood line is quite broad and stretches to over a 1 km in width characterised as being fluviatile deposits which form a flat plain in, this precinct and tends to be widest at the various tributary with medium texture yellow duplex soils. Away from the river confluences. channel on the western bank is the Southern River Association which is characterised by sand plains which have been Erosion and accretion deposited by aeolian processes which have formed low dunes with some intervening swamps, iron and humus podzols, peats There is particularly severe erosion just upstream of the Jane and clays. Brook confluence, while isolated areas of erosion occur on many of the steeper banks. Unvegetated steep banks have been Topography recently eroded during periods of high water. The landslides The precinct is part of the Pinjarra Plain geomorphic unit which is have formed deep scarring exposing the sandy alluvial soils of flat to gently undulating (Seddon, 1972). The unit consists of the banks. fluviatile sediments which have been deposited from the streams which flow down from the Darling Range and as they reach the Vegetation Communities lower gradients drop their sediments. As a result, wide alluvial fans have formed at the base of the Darling Range. Around the Native Swan River and its tributaries, the unit has been modified by fluvial processes. The flat flood plains are contrasted by the Swan Complex opposite embankments being quite steep and up to 5 metres The Swan Complex edges the entire foreshore of this precinct high. In many cases the flood plain is particularly broad and the from Middle to Upper Swan (DCE, 1980). The vegetation ranges edge is delineated by an embankment up to 50 metres away from fringing woodland of flooded gum (Eucalyptus rudis) and from the river channel. swamp paperbark (Melaleuca rhaphiophylla) with localised occurrence of low open forest of sheoak (Casuarina obesa) and Hydrological Processes saltwater paperbark (Melaleuca cuticularis). Along the very fringe of the river the emergent shore rush (Juncus kraussii) and pale Water features rush (Juncus pallidus) form a closed sedge land. Marsh club rush (Bulboschoenus caldwelli) is present in the river channel The Swan River is estuarine up to the Ellen Brook confluence, upstream of Middle Swan Bridge and depends on fresh water however tidal effects are minimal. Most of this section of the river flushing. There is some lake club rush (Schoenoplectus validus) remains unsnagged and as a consequence the river channel is downstream of the Jane Brook confluence. Both of these subject to eddies, and past changes in channel direction are communities occur as monospecific emergent stands, which evident adjacent to Pow Street wetlands. Floodplains form flat normally occur in front of a fringing woodland. The flooded gum alluvial terraces and often appear as muddy banks supporting (Eucalyptus rudis) - swamp paperbark (Melaleuca rhaphiophylla) fringing vegetation. Several small drainage lines and six larger community occurs almost continuously as a narrow ribbon along brooks enter the Swan River at this precinct. The tributaries drain the riverbank in this precinct. the surrounding plain forming valleys and channels which irregularly meander through the areas of lowest topography. 3 Precinct 11 – Middle Swan – Middle Swan Road to Ellen Brook Adjacent to Middle Swan Bridge, swamp sheoak (Casuarina is a major infestation of blackberry (*Rubus sp). Other weeds obesa) is interspersed with the flooded gum and paperbark species include watsonia (*Watsonia bulbilifera), dandelions community. The understorey is generally disturbed and is (*Taraxacum officinale), dock (*Rumex crispus), giant reed dominated by exotic grasses. (*Arundo donax), water couch (*Paspalum dilatatum) and evening primrose (*Oenothera sp). Guildford Complex The Guildford Complex occurs on the eastern side of the Swan Historical Land Use and Resulting Complex at Heme Hill and Millendon (DCE, 1980). The complex Environmental Changes ranges from a mixture of open to tall open forest of marri (Eucalyptus calophylla), wandoo (Eucalyptus wandoo) and The earliest description of this section of the river by a European jarrah (Eucalyptus marginata). The understorey species include explorer of the precinct was made by Vlamingh in January 1697. bull banksia (Banksia grandis), slender banksia (Banksia He noted that 'rounding a corner we found the end of the river attenuata) and firewood banksia (Banksia menziesii), black gin which divides itself into many views, that we could not proceed (Kingia australis), blackboy (Xanthorrhoea preissii), prickly any more' (in Seddon, 1972). In 1801, the French explorers mosses (Acacia pulchella), white myrtle (Hypocalymma proceeded up to St Leonards Creek and possibly travelled on angustifolium), Swan River myrtle (Hypocalymma robustum), foot to Henley Brook. At the location south of St Leonards Creek common hovea (Hovea trisperma) and buttercup (Hibbertia they noted a lake of freshwater 'Etang d'eau douce'. On the hypericoides). The disturbed understorey consists of bracken journey Bailey wrote that the 'banks of the river appeared almost fern (Pteridium esculentum) and exotic grasses. everywhere covered with beautiful forests, which extended a considerable way into the interior of the country. A small stand of wandoo (Eucalyptus wandoo) occurs north of Wandoo Creek and near Bandyup women's prison. It also occurs Captain Stirling and his exploratory party were able to travel to at the confluence of Susannah Brook and opposite the Henley the confluence of the Swan River and Ellen Brook in March 1827. book confluence at Millendon. The complex is most often They were hindered from travelling any further upstream by disturbed and the understorey consists of grasses. debris and the lack of water except for a few pools in the channel. The site of Stirling's camp is marked by All Saints Church Southern River Complex (Bourke, 1987). The Southern River Complex occurs adjacent to Jane and Ellen Brooks. The complex is identified as being jarrah (Eucalyptus The relatively rich soils of the Middle and Upper Swan meant that marginata), marri (Eucalyptus calophylla) and various banksia the original land lots were in high demand. Several properties species. Along the various drainage lines there is a fringing were established as farms which were typically used for several woodland of flooded gum (Eucalyptus rudis) and swamp types of agriculture, including wheat crops, fruit and vegetables paperbark (Melaleuca rhaphiphylla) and sheoak (Casuarina and livestock such as sheep and cattle. However by the 1840s, obesa). Remnant marri (Eucalyptus calophylla), banksia settlers such as Thomas Yule had established the first vines in (Banksia attenuata) and (Banksia menziesii) woodland the area which was soon to become the favoured crop. Many of communities are found on the drier areas. This understorey is the original homesteads are of historical importance and their open and dominated by species such as blackboy (Xanthorrhoea significance is outlined below.