Despite being one of the most densely populated countries in , is a worthwhile and exciting birding destination, with Nyungwe National Park the undoubted star attraction. The largest montane forest in Africa, Nyungwe has more endemic than any other site outside the Democratic Republic of Congo. On the other side of this small but vibrant country, offers a wide diversity of savanna and wetland birds, including Shoebill and several species confined to the Lake Victoria Basin. Peter Ryan and Callan Cohen report on a recent visit.

Photographs by Peter Ryan

he forests of the west­ end of apartheid, Rwanda was plunged ern (or Albertine) Rift into chaos. Ethnic violence, resulting support more endemic in large part from a century of colonial birds than any other meddling, caused the deaths of almost endemic area in a million people. The genocide was Africa, making them the culmination of 25 years of sporadic the hottest of hotspots violence between Hutus and Tutsis and for birders. Adding to their allure, led to ongoing instability in the region. some of Africa’s least known and Yet today Rwanda is one of the most tmost enigmatic birds are found here: organised countries in Africa, with a Congo Bay Owl, Prigogine’s Nightjar strong determination to move on from and Schouteden’s Swift are collectively the events of the past. Witnessing this known from fewer than 10 specimens. turnaround at first hand and learning Extending patchily through the eastern about the country’s history were among Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), the highlights of our visit to Rwanda. western , , Rwanda and , the Albertine Rift forests sup­ oming in to land at Kigali brought RAY TIPPER port at least 37 endemic bird species. C home two abiding truths that were Many of the forests are being cleared for frequently reinforced during our travels Above Probably the most sought- ridging agriculture and are thus under threat, around the country. Firstly, Rwanda after species for most birders visiting while the status of the forests in the is appropriately called the Land of a Nyungwe National Park is the Red-collared DRC, which support the greatest divers­ Thousand Hills. Everywhere is hilly, to Mountain-Babbler, because the park is the ity of endemic species, is poorly known. the extent that one wonders how there only site outside the DRC where it occurs. In recent years, most birders chasing is enough flat ground for the airport. The fact that it’s a stunning bird doesn’t the Albertine Rift endemics have visited And secondly, Rwanda is crowded. With hurt either! Small parties glean insects Uganda’s Bwindi Forest, but that offers some nine million people in a country from epiphyte-covered trunks, but are only a subset of the region’s endemics. smaller than Lesotho, the pressure for easily overlooked when not calling. As we discovered, Rwanda’s Nyungwe land is intense. Outside national parks, forest offers a greater diversity of species the countryside is a patchwork of small Opposite Grauer’s Swamp-Warbler is a in a magnificent setting. fields and eucalypt stands with scant scarce, localised Albertine Rift endemic the But before tackling Rwanda’s birds, natural vegetation. Yet it still manages confined to high-elevation swamps in ift we have to touch on the proverbial to support reasonable numbers of birds, Rwanda, Burundi, south-western Uganda elephant in the room. It’s inescapable: thanks in part to a culture of not hunt­ and the eastern DRC. It is listed as Endan- mention Rwanda and the first thing ing them. Marshes, rice paddies and fish gered, but is common in Nyungwe. that springs to mind is the 1994 geno­ ponds line many of the valley floors, BIRDINGRWANDA cide. As South Africa celebrated the providing feeding opportunities for 

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 RWANDA 31 A quick stop for Mountain Buzzards ended up lasting more than an hour as we notched up a host of the more common Albertine Rift endemics

Bwindi are richer and the rainfall is higher, there forest are excellent birds throughout. A brief uganda stop within a few hundred metres of tanzania 0° entering the eastern edge of the forest democratic republic of congo pro­duced a pair of Dusky Crimsonwings

as well as several Red-faced Woodland- Rugezi Marsh akagera national park Warblers. The following morning­ we had volcanoes planned to walk the Bigugu track as it is national park rwanda a good site for Red-collared Mountain- Babbler, probably the most sought-after Nyaburongo

bird in Nyungwe. But as we entered from KIGALI Gisakura at the western edge of the park, Nyaburongo it proved impossible to drive past so Swamp herons, ibises, egrets and storks. We en­ of the country on the border with many good birds. A quick stop for a pair countered two large breeding colonies­ Burundi, it straddles the divide between of Mountain Buzzards ended up lasting Kamiranzovu in eucalypt trees lining the main roads. the Congo and watersheds. Indeed, more than an hour as we notched up Marsh In one, on the road east of Kigali, Pink- the most remote source of the Nile arises a host of the more common Albertine Mt Bigugu backed Pelicans, Yellow-billed Storks, on the slopes of Mount Bigugu, the Rift endemics: , Black-headed Herons and African Sac­ park’s highest point. Protected as a forest Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher, Rwenzori Cyangugu red Ibises were breeding next to a busy reserve since 1933, it has been impacted Batis, Chubb’s Cisticola and a trio of Nyungwe national park commercial centre, with music blaring by gold-mining and limited agricul­ stunning sunbirds – Blue-headed, Regal Butare throughout the day. ture, but its future became more secure and the incredibly iridescent Purple- burundi Kigali has expanded rapidly since it after it was proclaimed a national park breasted. The final target sunbird, the became the capital of Rwanda after in 2004. It encompasses approximately Rwenzori Double-collared, proved to be independence in 1962, and it sprawls 1 000 square kilometres of montane for­ over several hills and valleys. Although est and heathland, ranging from 1 600 When we finally reached the Left Recent genetic studies bustling with activity, it is more organ­ to 2 950 metres in elevation. Given the Bigugu trail, the endemics continued suggest that the Rwenzori ised than many other African cities, small size of Rwanda, it only takes about to stream in: Archer’s Robin-, Apalis is probably not an apalis and its most remarkable feature is a four hours to reach Nyungwe on mostly Mountain Illadopsis, Stripe-breasted Tit at all, and it also has fewer tail virtual absence of litter. Following a good tar roads from Kigali. and . An ant swarm feathers. It is yet another Above Ntoyinkima Claver, the top bird major clean-up in 2005, plastic bags The park is readily accessible, with provided great views of Red-throated Albertine endemic. guide in Nyungwe National Park, on one were banned from the country and since the main road between Butare and Alethe, Handsome Spurfowl were call­ of the park’s trails. then regular community efforts ensure Cyangugu running through it for 55 kilo­- ing throughout the forest, and a Cassin’s that the city remains litter-free. This metres. Birding from the road is excel­ Hawk-Eagle soared overhead, but the Top Western Citrils are common community spirit is sympt­omatic of the lent and there is a wonderful network mountain-babblers were worryingly throughout Rwanda, especially around positive attitude of most Rwandans. of trails through the forest, centred on quiet. A single showed the swampy valley bottoms. If you’re spending time in Kigali, there the park headquarters at Uwinka. This briefly in a bird party, but subsequent are several birding options, perhaps the area is famous for its large troop of efforts to connect with this localised best of which is Nyaburongo Swamp on some 400 Angolan colobus monkeys. more elusive. It is largely confined to endemic were frustrated. Chestnut- the southern outskirts. The large papyrus The undu­ lating­ terrain makes for spec­ heathlands at higher elevations. Don’t throated, Grey and Black-throated beds flanking the main road to Butare tacular scenery, with unbroken forest be misled by the smaller Northern round out the diverse community of are home to at least two Lake Victoria stretching into the hazy distance. It also Double-collared Sunbirds, which are apalises that occur in the park. Basin endemics: Carruthers’s Cisticola facilitates birding and on the steeper found throughout much of the park Nyungwe teems with turacos. Great and Red-chested Sunbird. Other interest­ slopes there are abundant opportunities and are especially common around the Blues are commonly seen from the road, ing species include Blue-headed Coucal, to observe canopy species at eye level. Office Rwandais du Tourisme et des and the forest resounds to the rauc­ White-headed Saw-wing, Grey-capped Birding will be further enhanced with Parcs Nationaux (ORTPN) guesthouse ous calls of the Black-billed, but pride Warbler and Western Citril. the construction of a canopy walkway at Gisakura. Other good species includ­ of place goes to the bizarre Rwenzori at Uwinka, due to be completed this ed Stuhlmann’s and Sharpe’s starlings, Turaco. Sporting a deep, keeled bill like Nyungwe National Park year, and plans are afoot to erect canopy Equatorial Akalat and Grey-winged a Great Blue Turaco and with an atypical If you’re visiting Rwanda for birds, you’ll towers at other strategic sites. Robin-Chat. The roadside is also the best ringing call, it rightly deserves its own want to make a bee-line for Nyungwe Although the best birding is in the place to spend time with the attractive genus. The fact that it’s also a hand­ National Park. Lying in the south-west western half of the park, where the soils l’Hoest’s monkey. some species, even by turaco standards, 

32 RWANDA africa – birds & birding FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 RWANDA 33 Repro: please make sky look a bit less drab

When birding in Nyungwe, one has a sense of exploration, that anything could appear over the

A network of well-maintained trails allows just adds to its appeal. Nyungwe is, in Warblers. The warbler came close to next hill access to the heart of Nyungwe forest. addition, great for bush-shrikes: Moun­ being the bird of the trip, certainly beat­ tain Sooty Boubous and Doherty’s Bush- ing the region’s other monotypic genus Shrikes are abundant throughout, while of warbler, Grauer’s Warbler. This rather Lühder’s Bush-Shrikes occur at the lower dull grey bird of dense tangles and creep­ elevations. Lagden’s Bush-Shrike is a ers is best located by its soft trilling call, large, scarce species that is more often remarkably similar to that of a Scaly- heard than seen, but we were fortunate throated Honeyguide. Our experience to find an adult with a fledged chick that at Kamiranzovu was nicely rounded out spent 10 minutes tackling a large katy­ when we were serenaded by a troop of did or cicada. We also called up a buff- chimpanzees. breasted Many-coloured Bush-Shrike, a We finally caught up with a party colour morph confined to the southern of Red-collared Mountain-Babblers on Albertine Rift. our second visit to the Bigugu trail. The following morning we hiked down Nyungwe is the only forest outside the to Kamiranzovu Marsh, ‘the place that DRC where this gorgeous species occurs, swallows elephants’. Sadly, the elephants so we couldn’t afford to leave without have disappeared from Nyungwe, but seeing it and it didn’t disappoint. Like the marsh remains a spectacular site that the exquisite White-throated Mountain- supports a large population of the local­ Babbler of south-western Cameroon, ised and threatened Grauer’s Swamp- it roves through the forest in small Warbler. Covering 13 square kilo­metres family groups, gleaning insects from at the base of an ancient block fault, among epiphytes on large branches. it is surrounded by picturesque forest With the babbler finally under our belts, that literally drips with epiphytes. There we were free to explore the remnants have been several sightings of the rare of lower elevation forest, adding Elliot’s Clockwise from top left Bare-faced Go-away-bird; The papyrus swamps around Lake Beringero are home to Papyrus Gonolek and Albertine Owlet in these forests, but and Tullberg’s woodpeckers, Kakamega White-winged Warblers, and are often visited by Shoebills; Woodpeckers are surprisingly scarce in Nyungwe forest, but we encountered we had to satisfy ourselves with Grey- Greenbul, and one of the few records of a few Tullberg’s Woodpeckers at lower elevations in the forest; Nyungwe forms the watershed between Africa’s two greatest catch- chested Illadopsis, Strange Weaver and Yellow-bellied Hyliota from Nyungwe. ments, the Nile and Congo rivers; Grey Crowned Crane; Doherty’s Bush-Shrike; l’Hoest’s monkeys are easily seen along the main road an incredibly obliging pair of Short-tailed Much of the lower elevation forest  through Nyungwe forest.

34 RWANDA africa – birds & birding FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 RWANDA 35 has been lost to tea plantations, but Know before you go some remains below Uwinka in the Bururi River valley. ost tourists visit during the main dry season (June–September), although the In four days we recorded 120 bird Mshorter dry season (December–January) may also be worth exploring. In July species in Nyungwe; it wasn’t the the climate is pleasantly cool in the highlands, and not too hot in the eastern low- greatest diversity but, importantly, the lands. Malaria is widespread, so travellers should take the usual precautions. We tally included 20 of the Albertine Rift experienced very few problems with insects, although pepper ticks were common en­demics. Compared to Bwindi in locally in Akagera National Park. Uganda, only the African Green Broadbill For a former Francophone country, English is widely spoken and this is set to has not been recorded from Nyungwe increase as it recently became the main medium for education. Despite a rapidly and, given the broadbill’s unobtrusive developing broadband network, most transactions remain cash based. Change nature, it may well occur there. When US dollars (only notes dated after 2000 will be accepted) or euros in Kigali and birding in Nyungwe, one has a sense of not at the airport, which offers lower rates than in town. If you want to see the exploration, that anything could appear mountain gorillas in , be sure to arrange a permit (cur- over the next hill. For example, the rently US$500, but due to increase) well in advance, especially if you are there rare owl-faced monkey was only discov­ in the dry season. ered in Nyungwe in 1989. Rockefeller’s Kigali offers a wide range of accommodation. In Nyungwe National Park, you Sunbird and Chapin’s Flycatcher have can camp at Uwinka, but you would need to take all your camping gear, food and been claimed from Nyungwe, but their water. Otherwise, the best place to stay is at Gisakura, where you need to reserve occurrence requires confirmation. Other a room in advance at one of the two guesthouses (ORTPN preferred). Akagera species that might well occur include Game Lodge ([email protected], www.akageralodge.co.rw) offers up- Grauer’s Cuckooshrike and perhaps market accommodation in Akagera National Park. even Congo Bay Owl. Marcell Claassen ([email protected]) can assist with advice for inde- pendent birders. Ntoyinkima Claver ([email protected]) is an extremely know­ ledgeable guide in Nyungwe National Park, and Muhizi James is the best guide for You could see more species in Uganda, or Tanzania, birders at Akagera. There are direct flights to Kigali from many major centres, as well as regular connections via Nairobi or Kampala. The small size of the country, limited number but Rwanda offers its birds in a small, manageable package of key birding sites, and generally good road infrastructure make getting around relatively simple. Nyungwe can be accessed using public transport, but you need a This reflects its diversity of habitats, vehicle to explore Akagera National Park. Like all East African parks, entry fees are ranging from vast swamps and lakes For most visitors, Shoebill is a key Above Great Blue Turaco is commonly quite steep, and you are also required to hire a local guide. on the Akagera floodplain, through target. The park has a small resident seen in Nyungwe. riparian thickets, dry forest and wood­ population, but access to the swamps A giant lobelia stands sentinel over the seemingly endless rolling forest of Nyungwe land to grassy plains and rocky hills. the birds favour is restricted to a few Opposite In addition to having white National Park. In three days we recorded about 160 vantage points and it is a matter of cheeks in the female, the Ruaha Chat species, but it was the middle of winter luck whether any Shoebills are visible. differs from Arnott’s Chat in its choice of and the area was unusually dry. We More reliable are Papyrus Gonolek and habitat. Whereas Arnott’s Chat largely Akagera National Park also only explored a small part of the White-winged Swamp-Warbler, which avoids transformed habitats, this female Reluctantly leaving Nyungwe, we park. Although more than half of it was are present in the large swamps. Papyrus Ruaha Chat was nesting in the roof of head­ed to Akagera National Park on deproclaimed in 1997 to accommo­ Canary also occurs, but the Papyrus a hut in an agricultural landscape. The Rwanda’s eastern border with Tanzania. date returning refugees, the remaining Yellow Warbler is surprisingly absent species is replaced by Sooty Chat inside It’s a three-hour drive from Kigali, and protected area is close to 1 100 square from the park list. It is, however, found Akagera National Park. the final section of dirt road before the kilometres. Given the relatively rough at other wetlands in Rwanda, including park offers some good birds. Probably tracks through much of the reserve, it Rugezi Marsh in the north and at least the most interesting is the so-called requires several days to explore its more two marshes south of Kigali. Ruaha Chat (the local form of Arnott’s remote northern parts. Overall we recorded just more than Chat), which, unlike the more wide­ The avifauna is dominated by wide­ 300 species in 10 days in Rwanda, less spread southern form, is much more spread savanna birds, but there are a than half the country’s total list of common in scrubby farmland outside few more localised species. Black-lored close to 700. You could see more spe­ the park; it is largely replaced by Sooty Babblers are common in the arid wood­ cies in Uganda, Kenya or Tanzania, but Chat in the park’s pristine woodlands. land and Red-faced Barbets occur at low Rwanda offers its birds in a small, man­ The female has more white on the face densities along the ridges. The rocky ageable package and is ideal for a short than Arnott’s Chat, and genetic evidence ridges also support small numbers of trip. The sites are close together, the apparently supports its recognition as a the scarce and reclusive Ring-necked people are extremely hospitable, and travel with us distinct species. Francolin, which is best distinguished one has the reassuring sense that this is oin Africa – Birds & Birding as we With some 525 species, Akagera from the more widespread Shelley’s, a country where things work. Rwanda Jexplore the wonders of Rwanda. National Park boasts one of the largest Red-winged, Coqui and Red-necked fran­ is an ideal introduction to Albertine See page 57 for further details. bird lists of any African protected area. colins by its peculiar, woodwind call. Rift birding. 

36 RWANDA africa – birds & birding FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 RWANDA 37