Despite being one of the most densely populated countries in Africa, Rwanda is a worthwhile and exciting birding destination, with Nyungwe National Park the undoubted star attraction. The largest montane forest in Africa, Nyungwe has more Albertine Rift endemic birds than any other site outside the Democratic Republic of Congo. On the other side of this small but vibrant country, Akagera National Park offers a wide diversity of savanna and wetland birds, including Shoebill and several species confined to the Lake Victoria Basin. Peter Ryan and Callan Cohen report on a recent visit. Photographs by Peter Ryan he forests of the west- end of apartheid, Rwanda was plunged ern (or Albertine) Rift into chaos. Ethnic violence, resulting support more endemic in large part from a century of colonial birds than any other meddling, caused the deaths of almost endemic bird area in a million people. The genocide was Africa, making them the culmination of 25 years of sporadic the hottest of hotspots violence between Hutus and Tutsis and for birders. Adding to their allure, led to ongoing instability in the region. some of Africa’s least known and Yet today Rwanda is one of the most tmost enigmatic birds are found here: organised countries in Africa, with a Congo Bay Owl, Prigogine’s Nightjar strong determination to move on from and Schouteden’s Swift are collectively the events of the past. Witnessing this known from fewer than 10 specimens. turnaround at first hand and learning Extending patchily through the eastern about the country’s history were among Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), the highlights of our visit to Rwanda. western Tanzania, Burundi, Rwanda and Uganda, the Albertine Rift forests sup- oming in to land at Kigali brought RAY TIPPER port at least 37 endemic bird species. C home two abiding truths that were Many of the forests are being cleared for frequently reinforced during our travels Above Probably the most sought- ridging agriculture and are thus under threat, around the country. Firstly, Rwanda after species for most birders visiting while the status of the forests in the is appropriately called the Land of a Nyungwe National Park is the Red-collared DRC, which support the greatest divers- Thousand Hills. Everywhere is hilly, to Mountain-Babbler, because the park is the ity of endemic species, is poorly known. the extent that one wonders how there only site outside the DRC where it occurs. In recent years, most birders chasing is enough flat ground for the airport. The fact that it’s a stunning bird doesn’t the Albertine Rift endemics have visited And secondly, Rwanda is crowded. With hurt either! Small parties glean insects Uganda’s Bwindi Forest, but that offers some nine million people in a country from epiphyte-covered trunks, but are only a subset of the region’s endemics. smaller than Lesotho, the pressure for easily overlooked when not calling. As we discovered, Rwanda’s Nyungwe land is intense. Outside national parks, forest offers a greater diversity of species the countryside is a patchwork of small Opposite Grauer’s Swamp-Warbler is a in a magnificent setting. fields and eucalypt stands with scant scarce, localised Albertine Rift endemic the But before tackling Rwanda’s birds, natural vegetation. Yet it still manages confined to high-elevation swamps in ift we have to touch on the proverbial to support reasonable numbers of birds, Rwanda, Burundi, south-western Uganda elephant in the room. It’s inescapable: thanks in part to a culture of not hunt- and the eastern DRC. It is listed as Endan- mention Rwanda and the first thing ing them. Marshes, rice paddies and fish gered, but is common in Nyungwe. that springs to mind is the 1994 geno- ponds line many of the valley floors, BIRDINGRWANDA cide. As South Africa celebrated the providing feeding opportunities for FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 RWANDA 31 A quick stop for Mountain Buzzards ended up lasting more than an hour as we notched up a host of the more common Albertine Rift endemics BWINDI are richer and the rainfall is higher, there FOREST are excellent birds throughout. A brief UGANDA stop within a few hundred metres of tanZANIA 0° entering the eastern edge of the forest democratic REPUBLIC OF CONGO pro duced a pair of Dusky Crimsonwings as well as several Red-faced Woodland- Rugezi Marsh AKAGERA NATIONAL PARK Warblers. The following morning we had VOLCANOES planned to walk the Bigugu track as it is NATIONAL PARK rwanda a good site for Red-collared Mountain- Babbler, probably the most sought-after Nyaburongo bird in Nyungwe. But as we entered from KIGALI Gisakura at the western edge of the park, Nyaburongo it proved impossible to drive past so Swamp herons, ibises, egrets and storks. We en- of the country on the border with many good birds. A quick stop for a pair countered two large breeding colonies Burundi, it straddles the divide between of Mountain Buzzards ended up lasting Kamiranzovu in eucalypt trees lining the main roads. the Congo and Nile watersheds. Indeed, more than an hour as we notched up Marsh In one, on the road east of Kigali, Pink- the most remote source of the Nile arises a host of the more common Albertine Mt Bigugu backed Pelicans, Yellow-billed Storks, on the slopes of Mount Bigugu, the Rift endemics: Mountain Masked Apalis, Black-headed Herons and African Sac- park’s highest point. Protected as a forest Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher, Rwenzori Cyangugu red Ibises were breeding next to a busy reserve since 1933, it has been impacted Batis, Chubb’s Cisticola and a trio of NYUNGWE NATIONAL PARK commercial centre, with music blaring by gold-mining and limited agricul- stunning sunbirds – Blue-headed, Regal Butare throughout the day. ture, but its future became more secure and the incredibly iridescent Purple- BURUNDI Kigali has expanded rapidly since it after it was proclaimed a national park breasted. The final target sunbird, the became the capital of Rwanda after in 2004. It encompasses approximately Rwenzori Double-collared, proved to be independence in 1962, and it sprawls 1 000 square kilometres of montane for- over several hills and valleys. Although est and heathland, ranging from 1 600 When we finally reached the Left Recent genetic studies bustling with activity, it is more organ- to 2 950 metres in elevation. Given the Bigugu trail, the endemics continued suggest that the Rwenzori ised than many other African cities, small size of Rwanda, it only takes about to stream in: Archer’s Robin-Chat, Apalis is probably not an apalis and its most remarkable feature is a four hours to reach Nyungwe on mostly Mountain Illadopsis, Stripe-breasted Tit at all, and it also has fewer tail virtual absence of litter. Following a good tar roads from Kigali. and Rwenzori Apalis. An ant swarm feathers. It is yet another Above Ntoyinkima Claver, the top bird major clean-up in 2005, plastic bags The park is readily accessible, with provided great views of Red-throated Albertine endemic. guide in Nyungwe National Park, on one were banned from the country and since the main road between Butare and Alethe, Handsome Spurfowl were call- of the park’s trails. then regular community efforts ensure Cyangugu running through it for 55 kilo­- ing throughout the forest, and a Cassin’s that the city remains litter-free. This metres. Birding from the road is excel- Hawk-Eagle soared overhead, but the Top Western Citrils are common community spirit is sympt omatic of the lent and there is a wonderful network mountain-babblers were worryingly throughout Rwanda, especially around positive attitude of most Rwandans. of trails through the forest, centred on quiet. A single Kungwe Apalis showed the swampy valley bottoms. If you’re spending time in Kigali, there the park headquarters at Uwinka. This briefly in a bird party, but subsequent are several birding options, perhaps the area is famous for its large troop of efforts to connect with this localised best of which is Nyaburongo Swamp on some 400 Angolan colobus monkeys. more elusive. It is largely confined to endemic were frustrated. Chestnut- the southern outskirts. The large papyrus The un du lating terrain makes for spec- heathlands at higher elevations. Don’t throated, Grey and Black-throated beds flanking the main road to Butare tacular scenery, with unbroken forest be misled by the smaller Northern round out the diverse community of are home to at least two Lake Victoria stretching into the hazy distance. It also Double-collared Sunbirds, which are apalises that occur in the park. Basin endemics: Carruthers’s Cisticola facilitates birding and on the steeper found throughout much of the park Nyungwe teems with turacos. Great and Red-chested Sunbird. Other interest- slopes there are abundant opportunities and are especially common around the Blues are commonly seen from the road, ing species include Blue-headed Coucal, to observe canopy species at eye level. Office Rwandais du Tourisme et des and the forest resounds to the rauc- White-headed Saw-wing, Grey-capped Birding will be further enhanced with Parcs Nationaux (ORTPN) guesthouse ous calls of the Black-billed, but pride Warbler and Western Citril. the construction of a canopy walkway at Gisakura. Other good species includ- of place goes to the bizarre Rwenzori at Uwinka, due to be completed this ed Stuhlmann’s and Sharpe’s starlings, Turaco. Sporting a deep, keeled bill like Nyungwe National Park year, and plans are afoot to erect canopy Equatorial Akalat and Grey-winged a Great Blue Turaco and with an atypical If you’re visiting Rwanda for birds, you’ll towers at other strategic sites.