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2-Beginners-Free-Pattern.Pdf This publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable international, federal, state and local laws, and all rights are reserved, including resale rights. You can not give or sell this book to anyone else, unless you have received written permission from The Weaving Loom. Please contact me via email at [email protected] with any concerns. Although, I, the author, have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content in this book, I assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Front Cover Design: Copyright © 2016 The Weaving Loom Content: Copyright © 2016 The Weaving Loom. All rights reserved worldwide. Beginner's Weaving Pattern Let me just start by saying thank you for downloading my beginner's weave pattern. I'm very excited to share this with you. I feel that the best way to learn is through doing, so this pattern was created to help you start your weaving journey without worry about making a cohesive piece. I hope that you can take the lessons you learned by following this pattern and begin your own unique weaving journey. In this pattern I will go over the following weaving techniques: ◦ Plain Weave ◦ Hem Stitch Weave ◦ Soumak Weave ◦ Forming a triangle ◦ Rya knots There are three important things I would like to mention about this pattern: (1) I created this pattern with the assumption that you have already read my tutorials in my blog and that this pattern will help you form a weave using those tutorials that you have already read. If you haven't gotten a chance to read those tutorials, do not worry, I will link to them in this pdf as I mention a weaving technique. (2) For this weave, I have used two yarns that are widely available, but I have also used four yarns that are hand-dyed and hand-spun. The reason I chose to use hand-dyed and hand-spun yarns is that they add so much value and uniqueness to my weave and give it much more dimension in color and texture then if I were to use only mass-produced yarns. My hand-dyed and hand-spun yarns were part of a weaver's pack that I purchased from Serene Fiber Arts. I love these weaver's yarn packs because they contain four or more unique yarns that can bump up your yarn stash. If you don't like the colors I chose, or can't find similar fibers you can still follow this pattern. I have included the weight category for each yarn I have used so that you can pick out your own fibers and make this weave unique to you! I will give you my exact yarns used in the supply list, but will refer to them as neutral #1, neutral #2, color #1, color #2, color #3, and color #4 through out the pattern so that you can follow along with your own colors. (3) As we are all using our own looms, it wouldn't make sense for me to give you exact number of warp threads I have or how many rows I wove. I have written the pattern so that it can be followed in a general way. My weave measures about 6 inches across (15.24cm) and is 13 inches long (33.02cm) which includes the rya knots. If you are working on a loom smaller then 6 inches, you can still make this pattern, you will just have to adjust for the smaller size. You could also make this pattern larger then 6 inches if you chose. Ok now let's get creating! Supplies: • Neutral yarn colors (2) • Neutral #1 ◦ Lily Sugar'n Cream cotton yarn in White (weight category – worsted/4) • Neutral #2 ◦ Lion Brand Cotton-Ease blended yarn in Stone (weight category – worsted/4) • Colored yarns (4) Serene Fiber Arts Weaver's Yarn Pack • Color #1 ◦ Merino wool in Neon Variegated (weight category – worsted/4) • Color #2 ◦ Blue-Faced Leicester (BFL) wool in Royal Blue/Purple (weight category – worsted/4) • Color #3 ◦ Merino wool in Turquoise (weight category – worsted/4) • Color #4 ◦ Llama in Grey/Muted Blue (weight category – worsted/4) Step 1 || Warp your loom to about 6 inches (15.24cm) across. If you are new to warping a loom or just need a refresher, I have written a post about how to do it here. Step 2 || We will be making this weave from the top-down, so it will be upside down when you are working on it. Start with your neutral #1 yarn and weave 2 plain weave rows. When you are finished use your same yarn thread to make the hem stitch across those 2 rows. I am weaving on a notched loom, so I am going to push my hem stitched rows all the way down to the loom, so that later when I take my weave off the loom I can use my small warp loops to hang my weave from. This will also work if you're using a peg loom. If you are using a frame loom or something else that you'll need to cut your weave off the loom, then leave about a 3 inch (7.62cm) gap of warp threads between the frame and your hem stitched row. This will give you enough warp thread to hang your weave later. Step 3 || Now that you have a base of two plain rows hem stitched, take two strands of your color #1 and weave 5 rows of plain weave with those two strands. Why am I using two strands you maybe wondering, this is because the two strands will add bulk to your plain weave rows and give it a little more texture and interest. Step 4 || Next weave one plain row with color #2. Now using your hands pull the color #2 row up the warp at it's middle so that you create a slight triangle, keeping both ends down and touching color #1. After you have formed a slight triangle, weave two more rows of color #2 following that triangle. Step 5|| Go back to your neutral #1 color and fill in the triangle space that you created with color #2 by doing a plain weave. This is a simple way to create a triangle shape because you will use color #2 as your guide. Your triangle should decrease evenly on each side. My rows are decreasing a warp every two rows, but yours may differ depending on how many warp threads you have and the thickness of your weft thread. Just make sure your rows are decreasing the same on both sides as you follow the triangle shape made by color #2 Step 6|| Now your triangle of neutral #1 is filled in with color #2 around the outside of it. Next weave color #3 on the outside of color #2 so that you're following the same triangle shape. I wove 3 rows of plain weave for color #3. My #3 color is thinner then my #2 color, and I like that it takes up less room when woven. If your #3 and #2 colors are the same yarn weight, then you can weave less rows of color #3 to add some interest in the design. Push the woven rows of color #3 down tight against the triangle shape. Step 7|| The next row I'm adding is a soumak weave of color #1. To do this I'm using 3 threads of color #1 so that my soumak will be fuller. You will need to soumak two rows in order to create a braid. Weave your soumak against the triangle to get the tension correct. Step 8|| Now that your soumak braid is created, use your hands to gently push the soumak up your warp threads so that you make a diagonal with the soumak. I made it so that the left side of the soumak is higher then the right side (remember I'm weaving top to bottom, so this is reversed in the finished weave). The middle of the soumak is still touching the top of the triangle. Pinch the soumak threads together to fix the braid if it is separating in the middle from being moved. Step 9|| Your weave will now have a small triangle of empty warp thread on the right side and a large triangle of empty warp thread on the left. Start filling in the large triangle on the left by weaving your neutral #1 straight across from the top of the triangle you have already woven. Continue plain weaving with neutral #1 so that you fill in the bottom half of the left triangle. TIP: Do your best to keep an even tension by checking your weave sides. If a row is pulled too tight use your tapestry needle to loosen it back to even with the other rows. For more tips on how to plain weave at an even tension see this post. I am decreasing my weaving at 2 rows per warp, just like I did with my middle triangle. I am also fluffing my color #3 threads that are on the boarder of the middle triangle to help cover gaps. Step 10|| Plain weave color #3 in the remaining space of left triangle (the top half). Here I'm using two threads of my color #3 to add more interest and texture. I don't have a set decrease I'm following here since the angle is so sharp. I'm instead just following the soumak and filling in the space as I go.
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