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The Chemistry of Chocolate

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The Chemistry of Chocolate: Fermentations to Crystallization Kinetics in the creation of a Cherry Cordial Nicholas L. Rozzi, Ph.D. Laurent Besin Director Global Technical Service and Commercialization Application Manager Godiva Chocolatier, Inc. Barry Callebaut 1 Presentation Outline Reactions Covered Process Steps • Fermentation • Cocoa Bean Growth, Harvest and Drying • Maillard Reaction • Roasting of the Cocoa Beans and Producing Chocolate • Crystallization Kinetics • Tempering of Chocolate • Enzymatic Hydrolysis • Preparation of the Cherry Cordial Filling 2 COCOA BEAN GROWTH, HARVEST AND DRYING The Fermentation Step 3 The cocoa tree 4 The cocoa tree Theobroma cacao Height of the tree 10 to 26 ft. Diameter of the trunk 8 to 10 in. Oblong leaves 8 to 12 in. The cocoa tree bears buds, flowers and fruits at the same time. The pods are harvested over a period of several months. In West Africa there are 2 crops, the main crop extends from October to January and the mid crop from may to July. Tree growing area 20° latitude north and South. Requires a hot and humid climate Low altitude (2300 ft. max.). 5 The cocoa tree - 3 species • FORASTERO • Originally from the Amazon. • Production: more than 70% of world production. • West Africa : Ghana, Ivory Coast, Brazil • Good quality beans, less chocolate flavor than the Criollo and Trinitario • CRIOLLO • Originally from Central America and some areas of Asia. • Production : 5 to 8 % of world production. • Fine chocolate flavor often described as mild nutty, full chocolate. • TRINITARIO (Hybrids between Criollo and Forastero). • Origin : Trinidad and Grenada. • Production : +/- 20 %. • Some part of Venezuela and Colombia, Papua N.G., Madagascar. • Fine chocolate flavor often described as mild nutty, full chocolate, fruitiness. 6 Harvesting cocoa pods Cocoa pods are grown on the trunk and main branches of the tree Theobroma cacao. 7 The cocoa pod 8 Different Shapes of Pods 9 De-Podding De-podding consists of breaking the pods with a piece of wood or a «machette», remove beans and the adhering pulp. Beans with pulp are then ready for fermentation. 10 Fermentation • Fermentation and drying of cocoa is of vital importance. – Must start no later than 24 hours – after de-podding. • Objectives : – Prevent germination of the bean. – Separate the grain from the pulp. – Initiate chemical and enzymatic reactions inside the beans. – Develop flavor and color precursor. – Lower astringency and bitterness • Fermentation last two to seven days 11 Drying • After fermentation the beans are placed in trays or on the ground to dry. • Sun drying is usually adequate. Bananas leaves are used for covering during rainstorms or at night. • Drying reduces the water content, from 60 % to 7 %. 12 The fermentation process begins with the growth of micro-organisms. In particular, yeasts grow on the pulp surrounding the beans. Insects, such as the Drosophila melanogaster or vinegar-fly, are probably responsible for the transfer of micro-organisms to the heaps of beans. The yeasts convert the sugars in the pulp surrounding the beans to ethanol. Bacteria then start to oxidize the ethanol to acetic acid and then to carbon dioxide and water, producing more heat and raising the temperature. The pulp starts to break down and drain away during the second day. Lactic acid, which converts the alcohol to lactic acid in anaerobic conditions, is produced but, as the acetic acid more actively oxidizes the alcohol to acetic acid, conditions become more aerobic and halt the activity of lactic acid. 13 The temperature is raised to 40oC to 45oC during the first 48 hours of fermentation. In the remaining days, bacterial activity continues under increasing aeration conditions as the pulp drains away and the temperature is maintained. The process of turning or mixing the beans increases aeration and, consequently, bacterial activity. The acetic acid and high temperatures kill the cocoa bean by the second day. The death of the bean causes cell walls to break down and previously segregated substances to mix. This allows complex chemical changes to take place in the bean such as enzyme activity, oxidation and the breakdown of proteins into amino acids. These chemical reactions cause the chocolate flavor and color to develop. The length of fermentation varies depending on the bean type, Forastero beans require about 5 days and Criollo beans 2-3 days. Following fermentation the beans are dried. The oxidation reactions begun through fermentation continue during drying. 14 ROASTING OF THE COCOA BEANS AND PRODUCING CHOCOLATE The Maillard Reaction 15 Chocolate process overview Harvesting Cocoa Pods / Twice a year Fermenting & Drying Beans Cocoa butter Cleaning & Winnowing Cocoa Roasting & Grinding Nibs Mass Preparing Paste: Roller Refining COCOA POWDER Conching Molding Bulk Liquid Delivery Packaging & Shipping 16 Cleaning and Winnowing Cleaning: sieved, de-dusted, de-stoned, metal removed. Winnowing: beans are winnowed to remove the shells. 17 Roasting and Grinding • Roasting: – Critical to determine aroma and flavor. Nibs are freed of bacteria Nibs are ground Cocoa liquor Cocoa Cocoa powder butter 18 Preparing the paste: roller refining Cocoa Cocoa Minor Sugar Milk liquor butter Powder Ingredients Mixer Refiner 19 MAIN POINTS 1. Manual liquid addition 2&3 5 4 2. Automatic liquid addition 1 3. Bulk 4. Tipping station 5. Manual addition 6 6. Mixer: to make the mixes 7. Five roll refiner: refining 7 13 10 8. Conches: Conching 9. Magnet 10. Hamme r mill 11. Sieve 8 12. (horizontal) finishing tank 9 13. (vertical) stock tank 12 11 20 MAIN POINTS 1. Addition of liquid and solid ingredients 2. overpressure outlet (sugar grinding) 3. lid for manual additions 4. Steering equipment 5. Load cell 6. Lock 7. Dosing screw 8. Conveyor belt 9. Liquid additions 10. Water jacket Rev 15/05/00 21 The main countries : • Africa (60 % world production ) - Ivory Coast - Ghana Cocoa is produced in tropical regions • South America (15 % world production ) - Brazil - Ecuador • Asia and Oceania (25 % world production ) COCOA BEAN - Indonesia KERNEL - Malaysia NIB SHELL TRANSPORT DRYING FERMENTATION YIELD 22 Moisture Output of the shells Particles Cleaning of the Raw cocoa Destoner Magnet Roasting Debacterisation Breaker Winnowing grinding stages beans particles (from small pieces till fluid) Stones Metal Heath Magnet Cocoa- liquor tank CM (***) (**) deodorised cocoa butter Chocolate Cocoa press production Cocoa butter CB Cake Grinding Cocoa powder CP (*) Alkalified cocoa powder (*) alkalify: process to change the color and the taste. (**) decolorize / deodorizing (***) positiv e release 23 SPRAY ROLLER FULL-CREAMED MILK HOT CONCENTRATED FULL-CREAM MILK CONCENTRATED HOT DRY AIR SKIMMED MILK STEAM DRYING PROCESS COLD WARM AIR AIR FAT 24 HOMOGENOUS MIX WITH A GIVEN CONSISTENCY REFINING 25 FLUID FAT REFINING DRY POW DER PARTICLE After the refining extra friction surface is created for which no fat is available. BEFORE AF TE R Particles surrounded A lot of little particles which are only partly surrounded with fat with fat = Paste = Powder 26 1 kg solid mass 1 kg fat FLUID PASTE POWDER Size of the particles • Big particles till • Medium-sized particles • Small particles 1 mm till 200 µm till 40 µm Surface to be covered • Small surface • Big surface • Very big surface 27 A specific time is necessary to reduce the thickness. When the thickness is reduced to the half, the length of the film will be redoubled. Of course, the necessary time will be redoubled too. When the thickness is again reduced to the half, the length of the film will be redoubled again. So again, the necessary time will be redoubled too … 28 PRESSION ROLL NUMBER ROTATIONAL TEMPERATURE (°C) SPEED (tr/min) 5 FAS T 350 FINE 30 4 250 50 REFINED POW DER W ITH FINAL FINENESS 3 150 40 FLOW KG / HOUR MIX 2 50 35 1 25 S LO WLY COARSE 30 GAP PRESSION FINENESS 29 ‘DRIER’ MIX GOOD CONSISTENCY ‘MORE LIQUID’ MIX CONSISTENCY OF THE TEXTURE OF THE MIX • Good • Minimum flow flow • • • Good Small particles Maximum rolling time • Too long refining time flow • Bigger particles • Short refining time • The mix is taken easily by the rolls • Not enough resistance to push open the THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY OF A MIX • The rolls are pushed open rather easily DEPENDS ON THE RECIPE AND THE rolls REQUIRED FINENESS • The mix is not taken easily by the rolls 30 The final fineness of the w hole conche w ill be w rong: Consequence : problems w ith rheology and taste. REFINING st nd rd th 1 mix 2 mix 3 mix 4 mix WRONG = Too short/to coarse OK OK OK REFINING st nd rd th 1 mix 2 mix 3 mix 4 mix RIGHT = Too long / OK OK OK Final fineness OK too fine 31 POWDER LIQUID CONCHING • The respective ingredients are mixed The desired flavor according to the recipe Comes close to the • And then refined to the desired particle size (i.e. fineness) desired liquidity (ready for sampling) 32 Quantity and type of the refiner flake Time-temperature curve Mechanical energy (expressed by the amperage of the motor) TEXTURE Default master schedule Lecithin- and fat additives (quantity & time) • Fla vor • Moisture content • Fluid rheology (flow behaviour of the product) 33 COCOA BUTTER -FATS - AROMATICS... ARE ADDED FINE POWDER COCOA BUTTER (FAT) EM UL SIFIER OPEN 25 t 35 t PUMP OUT CONCHING FILLING CONCH 1 CONCH 2 CONCH 3 RECIPE X RECIPE Y RECIPE Z STORAGE OF LIQUID CHOCOLATE CAN BE IDENTICAL OR DIFFERENT OR MOLDING 34 Buffer tanks 22 um • Lecithin • Cocoa butter 40 um • Fats 70 um Fats, Milk fat.... Lecithin added automatically Flavor added by hand 35 5 1 7 6 2 3 8 4 MAIN POINTS 1 Conches 4 Sieve 7 Vertical storage tank 2 Magnetic filter 5 6/10 tons balancing tank 8 Liquid loading 3 Hamme r mill 6 20/25 tons balancing tank 36 Liquifying starts: lecithin/cocoa butter are Too little self-friction present in the The conch heats up significantly due added product in order to heat up the conch.
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