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Cape Town Is Dom- Tours ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd #_ CapePOP 3.74 MILLION Town Includes ¨ Why Go? Sights ...............45 Known as the ‘Mother City’ for its historical role in the Activities ............59 development of modern South Africa, Cape Town is dom- Tours ................64 inated by magnificent Table Mountain, its summit draped with cascading clouds, its flanks coated with unique flora Festivals & Events ....65 and vineyards, its base fringed by golden beaches. Few cities Sleeping .............67 can boast such a wonderful national park at their heart or Eating ...............76 provide the wide range of adventurous activities that take Drinking & Nightlife ...82 full advantage of it. Entertainment. .88 Cape Town is using some of the lessons learned during its stint as World Design Capital during 2014 to transform the Shopping ........... 90 city and the quality of life of its population. From the bright- ly painted facades of the Bo-Kaap and the bathing chalets of Muizenberg to striking street art and the Afro-chic decor of countless guesthouses, this is one good-looking metropolis. Best Places to Eat Above all it’s a multicultural city where everyone has a fas- cinating, sometimes heartbreaking story to tell. When the ¨ Chef’s Warehouse & time comes to leave, you may find your heart breaking too. Canteen (p77) ¨ Hallellujah (p79) ¨ Ferdinando’s (p79) When to Go ¨ La Mouette (p80) Cape Town ¨ La Colombe (p81) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 12/300 30/86 10/250 8/200 Best Places 20/68 6/150 to Stay 10/50 ¨ Mannabay (p73) 4/100 0/32 2/50 ¨ Backpack (p73) -10/14 0 ¨ La Grenadine (p73) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Villa Zest (p74) Jan Peak season Mar Enjoy arts Nov Spring sees ¨ Atlantic Point but also a chance events such as beautiful flowers Backpackers (p74) to see the Minstrel Infecting the begin to bloom Carnival. City and the and the start of International Jazz sunset concerts at Festival. Kirstenbosch. 45 History 1 Sights Long before the Dutch East India Compa- Cape Town’s commercial centre, known as ny (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie; the City Bowl, is bounded by Table Moun- VOC) established a base here in 1652, the tain and the suburbs of Bo-Kaap to the west, Cape Town area was settled by the San Gardens to the south, and East City, District and Khoekhoen nomadic tribes, collective- Six and Woodstock to the east. ly known as the Khoe-San. The indigenous Moving west around the Atlantic Coast CAPE TOWN TOWN peoples shunned the Dutch, so the VOC was you’ll first hit the Waterfront and Green forced to import slaves from Madagascar, Point. From Sea Point (which has an excellent India, Ceylon, Malaya and Indonesia to deal outdoor swimming pavilion), you can head with the colony’s chronic labour shortage. down to Clifton and Camps Bay. The road Women were in even shorter supply, so the then hugs the coast for a thrilling drive to the S I Europeans exploited the female slaves and fishing community of Hout Bay, which has a GH the local Khoe-San for both labour and good beach and a harbour with boat trips. ts sex. In time the slaves also intermixed with The city sprawls quite a distance to the the Khoe-San. The offspring of these un- north and east across the Cape Flats. To ions formed the basis of sections of today’s the south, skirting the eastern flank of the coloured population and also helps explain mountains, are the leafy, wealthy Southern the unique character of the city’s Cape Mus- Suburbs. Apart from the large Cape of Good lim population. Hope section of Table Mountain National Under the 150-odd years of Dutch rule, Park, the southern tip of the peninsula in- Kaapstad, as the Cape settlement became cludes the small seaside communities of known, thrived and gained a wider reputa- Muizenberg, Kalk Bay and Simon’s Town, tion as the ‘Tavern of the Seas’, a riotous port the main base for South Africa’s navy. used by every sailor travelling between Eu- rope and the East. Following the British de- 1 City Bowl & Surrounds feat of the Dutch in 1806 at Bloubergstrand, 25km north of Cape Town, the colony was oCastle of Good Hope MUSEUM ceded to the Crown on 13 August 1814. Cape (Map p50; www.castleofgoodhope.co.za; cnr Castle Town continued to prosper after the slave & Darling Sts, City Bowl, entrance on Buitenkant trade was abolished in 1808, and all slaves St; Mon-Sat adult/child R30/15, Sun adult/child were emancipated in 1833. R25/10; h9am-4pm; p; gCastle) Built by The discovery and exploitation of dia- the Dutch between 1666 and 1679 to defend monds and gold in the centre of South Af- Cape Town, this stone-walled pentagonal rica from the 1870s led to rapid changes. castle remains the headquarters for the Cape Town was soon no longer the single Western Cape military command. There are dominant metropolis in the country, but as free guided tours of the site (11am, noon a major port it too was a beneficiary of the and 2pm Monday to Saturday), and don’t mineral wealth that laid the foundations for miss climbing up to the bastions for an el- an industrial society. The same wealth led to evated view of the castle’s layout and across imperialist dreams of grandeur on the part to Grand Parade. of Cecil John Rhodes (premier of the Cape The Military Museum is interesting, as Colony in 1890), who had made his millions are the displays of antiques and decorative at the head of De Beers Consolidated Mines. arts in the William Fehr Collection (Map An outbreak of bubonic plague in 1901 p50; www.iziko.org.za; h9am-4pm; gCastle). was blamed on the black African workers o (although it actually came on boats from Ar- Company’s Gardens GARDENS (Map p50; City Bowl; h7am-7pm; gDorp/ gentina) and gave the government an excuse Leeuwen) to introduce racial segregation: blacks were These shady green gardens, which moved to two locations, one near the docks started as the vegetable patch for the Dutch and the other at Ndabeni on the eastern East India Company, are a lovely place to re- flank of Table Mountain. This was the start lax. They are planted with a fine collection of what would later develop into the town- of botanical specimens from South Africa ships of the Cape Flats. and the rest of the world, including frangi- panis, African flame trees, aloes and roses. .
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