Recreating the Original IPA

Travis Rupp

Innovation and Wood Cellar Manager

Beer Archaeologist

Instructor of Classics, Art History, and Anthropology

NESTOR’S CUP 1350 BCE RAGNARSDRÁPA

1800 BCE 900-1000 CE 1100-1400 CE Benedictus Nursia 825 CE (The Dead Sea Scrolls)

רבְּאֵ שֶׁבַ ע Beersheba

Image: “The Torah Prescripts Scroll” (Miqsat Ma`ase ha-Torah), parchment, late 1st cent. BCE – early 1sr cent. CE George Washington

Travis Rupp Travis Rupp 1752 India Pale

1599

Left: Dutch Jacob Cornelius van Neck

Right: English VI 1601 – English Involvement

East Indiamen under full sail in the China Sea Oil painting by William John Huggins c. 1825 – National Maritime Musuem in Greenwich, UK Dutch East India Trading Company March 20, 1602

The voyage's return in 1599, by Andries van Eertvelt Governor and Company of Merchants of London Trading into the a.k.a. The East India Trading Co

Dec. 31, 1600

• Queen • 200 English merchants granted trade in the East Indies

• Lancaster and 4 ships to China – 1601

• 500 tons of pepper!!

Red Dragon (a.k.a. Dragon)

• 38-gun ship, 600 tons Portrait of James Lancaster with the Red Dragon • 5 Voyages • Hamlet 1607 () 1614 painting by Hendrick Cornelisz Vroom showing English, Dutch and Spanish ships in a bay in the East Indies

October 1619 – Red Dragon is captured or sunk by the Dutch 1757 – Ale export boomNear when monopoly East India over Trading East Co.India took trade control by 1793 of the Indian subcontinent Imperial Trade What were the Brits looking to gain?

SPICES!!! peppercorns cinnamon nutmeg benjamin (frankincense) saltpetre textiles opium

And of course…TEA! Unloading tea ships in the East India docks, from the Illustrated London News, 26 October 1867. History of

Rice and millet – thousands of years • sura, medaka, prasanna, handia

Whiskey or Strong Beer – preferred • European Beer Introduced – 1716 • •

Kassauli – 1830 • 1st Indian by Edward Abraham Traditional beer vats in Meghalaya Dyer (English/Scottish roots) Allies in French Revolution (1792-1802), Enemies in the Anglo-Russian War (1807-1812), Allies against Napolean (1812-1815) Imperial History

England and the Russian Empire

• 18th cent. - Thrales Brewery • Exported to Catherine II

• 1781 – Courage Brewery • “Russian Imperial ”

”IMPERIAL ”

Export of High Gravity and brown beer in the 17th century

Oil on canvas portrait of Empress Catherine the Great by Russian painter Fyodor Rokotov (1763) English Pale Ale

✓Coke kilning and pale – late 17th cent.

✓Pale malt – North and Midlands

✓18th cent. = rise of London Porter, Burton Ale, and Pale Ale

✓1717 first London brewed Pale Ale

✓Pale Ale in rural communities in 1600s

✓Pale Ale first sold in 1709

✓Precursor = October Ale?

Wooden tankard found on board the 16th century carrack Mary Rose October Ale

“…[enjoyed] from the frozen regions of Russia to the burning sands of Bengal and .”

- Sir Joshua Reynolds (1723-1792)

Export Ales Baltic Countries Darker – amber to brown

At Home All Pale Malt High ABV High IBUs

For the wealthy, not the working… Self-Portrait of artist and beer lover, Sir Joshua Reynolds (c.1750) October Ale Recipes Ultra Expensive

• Lots of malt needed for the high gravity ➢ (approx. 10-12% ABV)

• Pale October hopped at twice the rate of Brown October ➢ (nearly 5 lbs per BBL to 2 lbs per BBL)

• Aged in oak for 9 months to 3 years ➢ This would have imparted color. Burton on Trent

• A beer epicenter in British culture • Water increased hop bitterness • Big players in the export game • Often produced beers at 30°P and 10% ABV • Hooping ratios of 5.2 lbs per BBL (2kg/hl) • Birth of the Imperial IPA??? Bow Company (1752) George Hodgson

• Near Bow Church – hence the name

• Porter and October Ale for the East Indiamen

• Find a way to make Pale October Ale lower in cost to produce…

• Adds in Calcutta Gazette 1801 and 1809

• 1813 – Hodgson and son were shipping 4000 oak barrels a year via the East Indiamen

• Open a new brewery near Bow Bridge with a taphouse – “Bombay Grab” Bow Brewing Company Beyond Hodgson…

• Most successful brewer of IPA

• Successors get greedy

• Pocket all the money undercutting ship captains

➢ 1822 – East India Trading Co board of directors commission Samuel Allsopp to replicate Hodgson’s beer Allsopp’s beer was cleaner and hoppier

1863 – Bow Bought out by Smith Garrett

Bow Brewing demolished in 1933 Ingredients

+ +

Pale Malt Yeast 2-row or 4-row East Kent Goldings London Ale Water Chemistry “as soft as possible”

BURTON LONDON

Cl = 352 Cl = 52 SO4 = 820 SO4 = 32 Dry Hopping For Shipment IPA in Scotland? - Built off Hodgson’s method - Robert Disher – Edinburgh (1821) - Ahead of many Burton - Invention of Sparging - High demand and low shipping costs The cooperage yard at St James’s Gate in 1939 Storage on Ships for a minimum of 11,000 nautical miles

Shipping tobacco hogsheads (wooden Wharves showing ships moored, barrels in foreground, 1858-1900 barrels loaded with 1,000 or so pounds of dried tobacco leaves) Source: Library of Congress, Joshua Fry/Peter Jefferson map of Virginia River View with men loading barrels on a sailing ship

Almelo Jan van Veen 1662 - 1683

The Journey…

3, 6, or even 18-month journey Extreme Temperature Fluctuations Why was spoilage not a concern for the Mayflower’s brown beer in 1620?

Mayflower e porzh-mor Aberplymm by William Halsall, 1882 What else was shipped with the beer?

1. Salted Beef 2. Brined Pork 3. Crackers 4. Ship Biscuits (a.k.a. “hardtack”)* 5. Peas 6. Salted Cod 7. Oatmeal 8. Cheese (no specific styles indicated) 9. Butter 10. Suet 11. Vinegar 12. Rum Spice Islands (Moluccas)

Indonesian Archipelago

Herrera’s Descripción de las Indias Occidentales

(Madrid, 1601) FINAL DESTINATIONS

Select principal trade hubs:

The East Indies (namely Indonesia and the Philippines) Gao Chittagong Bombay Madras Calcutta Bengal China Storage of beer in India …up to 18-24 months

Soleras at Valdespino Do 18th cent. IPA’s exist anymore?

Bass, Ratcliffe, & Gretton of Burton on Trent (1854)

• Single-brew wine “No. 1” • Bass “No. 1” (1854-1995) • British Standard

• Dark Bass Beers • Starting Gravity of 25° P • Typically in excess of 10% ABV • Bass “No. 2” came later

➢Closer to October Ales than India Ales Conclusion… The History is Riddled with… • Presumptions • Misnomers • Muddled Information • Misinformation • General Lack of Documentation

➢ Inconsistencies …especially in information, each brewery’s approach to the beer, and from batch to batch

1752 Recipe…

100% Pale 2-Row Malt

100% East Kent Golding Hops • Hot side target 50 IBUS

London Ale Yeast Recreating 1752 India Pale

Barreling

Knocked out into a tank for inoculation first Recreating 1752 India Pale

Head Space To Promote Oxidation…and Abuse! Recreating 1752 India Pale

Barrel Fermenting – 14 Days Recreating 1752 India Pale Dry Hopping

Dry-Hopped each oak barrel at 2.8 lbs per BBL whole cone EKG hops

How does this affect IBUs??? Recreating 1752 India Pale Oak aged/treatment for 2 months

Temperature swings of 40°+ F

Repeated rocking and shaking Recreating 1752 India Pale Debarreling Recreating 1752 India Pale Finings, Flannel, and Packaging The Finished Product 1752 India Pale… 7.7% ABV, 34 IBUs Flavor Profiles in 1752 India Pale Ale Fruit, Spice, Earthy, , Oak, Vanilla… Ballantine Brewery (est. 1840) Ballantine IPA (1890s-1990s) • 60 IBUs, 7.5% ABV • Aged in barrels for 1 year • Survived Prohibition • Relaunched 2014

• Early 19th cent - Decline of IPA • Peter Ballantine - Scottish The American IPA Revolution Bert Grant – & Malting Co.

• 1928 – Born in Scotland

• 1930 – Moves to Toronto

• 1967 – Yakima • Helps build and operate 2 hop processing plants

• 1982 – Yakima Brewery opens • microbrewery revolution CASCADE

• USDA – 1971 • Parentage = English Fuggles & Russian Serebrianka • Originally similar to German Hallertauer

• Washington and Oregon • 2009 - 4.55 million lbs. = 4.8% of total US production

• Strong Yield • Resistant to powdery mildew • Poor Storage Stability Roman Britain Coming Summer/Fall 2020 Follow me on Instagram @thebeerarchaeologist

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