I Development Fund European Regional EUROPEAN COMMUNITY

Spain

Spain Gothic Art

TABLE OF CONTENTS SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Introduction 1 OFFICES ABROAD Los Angeles Tourist Office of Spain Gothic Art 2 CANADA. Toronto The three great 8 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960 Tourist Office of Spain Beverly Hills, California 90211 A Tour 2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402 % 1(323) 658 71 88 14 Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2 ) 1(323) 658 10 61 20 % (1416) 961 31 31 www.okspain.org 24 ) Ireland (1416) 961 19 92 e-mail: [email protected] The Balearic Isles 26 United www.tourspain.toronto.on.ca Chicago The 27 Dublin e-mail: [email protected] Cantabria 28 Kingdom Tourist Office of Spain Castile-La Mancha 30 GREAT BRITAIN. London Water Tower Place, suite 915 East Castile and León 35 London Spanish Tourist Office 845 North Michigan Avenue 45 PO BOX 4009 Chicago, Illinois 60 611 Murcian Region 49 London W1A 6NB % 1(312) 642 19 92 Valencian Region 50 % (44207) 486 80 77 ) 1(312) 642 98 17 Extremadura 53 ) (44207) 486 80 34 www.okspain.org Galicia 56 www.tourspain.co.uk e-mail: [email protected] La Rioja 60 e-mail: [email protected] Miami 62 Tourist Office of Spain Navarre 64 JAPAN. Tokyo 1221 Brickell Avenue Basque Country66Bay of Biscay Tourist Office of Spain Miami, Florida 33131 Daini Toranomon Denki % Glossary 70 1(305) 358 19 92 Bldg.6F. 3-1-10 ) 1(305) 358 82 23 General information 72 Toranomon. Minato-Ku www.okspain.org Tokyo-105-0001 e-mail: [email protected] Portugal Madrid % (813) 34 32 61 41 New York ) Lisbon (813) 34 32 61 44 Tourist Office of Spain www.spaintour.com 666 Fifth Avenue 35th floor SPAIN e-mail: [email protected] New York, New York 10103 % 1(212) 265 88 22 Mediterranean RUSSIA. Moscow Atlantic Ocean ) 1(212) 265 88 64 Sea Spanish Tourist Office www.okspain.org Tverskaya – 16/2 Edificio 3 Ceuta e-mail: [email protected] Melilla Moscow 103009 % (7095) 935 83 97 Published by: EMBASSIES IN MADRID © Turespaña ) (7095) 935 83 96 Canada. Núñez de Balboa, 35 – 3º Secretaría de Estado www.tourspain.ru % 914 233 250 ) 914 233 251 de Turismo y Comercio e-mail: [email protected] Ministerio de Industria, Great Britain. Fernando El Santo, 16 Text: Turismo y Comercio SINGAPORE. Singapore % 913 190 200 ) 913 081 033 Jesús de la Cámara Spanish Tourist Office Japan. Serrano, 109 Printed by: 541 Orchard Road % 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321 Translation: EGESA Liat Tower # 09-04 Russia. Velázquez, 155 Michael Benedict % ) D.L. M-52231-2004 238881 Singapore 915 622 264 915 629 712 Photographs: NIPO: 704-04-035-0 % 65 67 37 30 08 United States of America Archivo Turespaña ) 65 67 37 31 73 Serrano, 75 Printed in Spain e-mail: [email protected] % 915 872 200 ) 915 872 303 Graphic Design: P&L MARÍN 1st Edition INTRODUCTION

Pinnacles soaring heavenwards, phantasmagoric gargoyles, ogives, stained-glass and rose windows casting iridescent beams of light, in palaces, castles, guildhalls and churches, will astonish and astound the traveller in any corner of Spain. So many and such a variety of structures are to be found -from Extremadura to the Balearic Isles and from Cantabria to the Canary Islands- that to mention them all would be impossible. The scope of this brochure is only enough to allow for a description of the major sights cited in art treatises, and a few more in those cases where the simple poetry of the monument or the beauty of the surroundings is such that it merits inclusion as an attraction; and even though there is no space for more, this will suffice for you to discover just how truly moving Spanish Gothic can be.

GOTHIC ART 13th century, germinal forms in Mediterranean regions the predominated. There was a coexisted with those of profile corresponded to a greater stress on grandiose The term Gothic, which comes Romanesque. This was a period rectangular parallelepiped, spaces and increased height. from the word “Goth”, was of evolution, in which formal where the interior space was The proliferation of mouldings used for the first time by Vasari, criteria of beauty prevailed and open, with scant difference (baquetones) on the pillars the Italian art historian of the the figure of the Virgin Mary between nave and . Apart tended to break the spatial 16th century, as a pejorative began to assume growing from this formal diversity, the unity. Vaults became more description of the importance. It is a period materials used offered a very complex and tiercerons marking the period between marked by ogival vaults wide array of textures and appeared. Romanesque and . supported by thick arches and colours, ranging from the Up until the 19th century, these walls that continue to be robust. sandstone and granite of From the outset of the forms, which now attract us so, During the 13th and until the Castile, through the limestone 15th century, Spanish Gothic were relegated to a minor early years of the 14th century, of the so-called Levant region presents us with a very prolific position, since many authors, French influence remained (/ area), to the phase, a consequence such as Molière, were of the dominant, but, to the delight of abundance of brick in Aragon. of the cultural and economic opinion that they were a the traveller, here in Spain, it development and greater “torrent of odious monsters”. acquired very specific local From 1300 onwards, a Mannerist wealth enjoyed by broad sectors Shortly before the beginning of traits. Hence, whereas in the phase emerged, with buildings of society. The the 20th century, the style began inland regions, becoming stylised and Gothic Style originally appeared to be regarded positively. elevations would fit into a mouldings multiplying, as did in the north of France and triangle, and the aisles tended the in the window Flanders, but, on arriving in Initiated in mid-12th century as a to be lower in height openings, in which curved Spain and coming into contact “language” without precedent, than the central nave, triangles and squares with Moorish forms, led to the the style became generalised emergence of a very particular throughout Europe over the style, known as Hispano-Flemish course of the 13th century, and Castilian, a style that will its acceptance and deep-rooted doubtless captivate the hold kept it in vogue until the onlooker. The Mudejar-inspired 16th century. In Spain, it decoration, with its tendency coincided with the maximum towards decorative lavishness, deployment and culmination of blind arcades, ornamental ribs, the Reconquest, i.e., the etc., makes for something that is consolidation of the Christian rather exclusive and can only be kingdoms. Under the Catholic seen in this part of the world. Monarchs, whose favourite architect was Juan Guas, it rose In the 16th century, the vitality of to a pinnacle of splendour. the Gothic Style, with work on three great cathedrals -, During these three long and - having centuries of survival, which were commenced at the turn of the to characterise the whole of the century, entered a revivalist or Late Middle Ages, Gothic passed through different phases. From Triptych on board. its beginnings until the early Valencia Gallery of Fine Art

2 3 “retro” phase that was to coexist between the major and minor art Architecture with the Renaissance. In the forms, in that all were regarded search for a new classicism, there as equally important, and you displays two As any site was looked upon as was a return to pure forms. will come across interiors that new and hitherto unparalleled ideal for locating sculpture, this bring together a number of aspects: the use of light and the will be found affixed to church The Gothic Style was a disciplines: gold- and silverwork, close relationship between and façades, retables, phenomenon in which the ceramic, embroidery, stained structure and appearance. All is choir stalls and funerary entire population participated: glass, tapestries, rugs, arms, geometry brimming with light, monuments, and even in its one sees churches and furniture, painting, sculpture and geometry that is felt though not own right, unrelated to the cathedrals conceived and architecture. Often, the selfsame seen but that will nevertheless be architecture, put there for the designed thanks to an overall person was skilled in several of discovered if sufficient attention pure enjoyment of the owner. combined effort, palaces, these techniques, e.g., sculptors is paid. Columns, windows and Yet when it does appear on fortresses and commercial and who were at once blacksmiths other points of reference delimit the exterior, it tends to be industrial edifices that mark the and/or gold- and silversmiths, squares, cubes, equilateral monumental, executed in independence of art from painters that gilded retables and triangles, rhythmic series that limestone or granite and ecclesiastical patronage, as well designed tapestries… and you convert space into a designed occasionally in alabaster or as an incipient craftsmanship. will see jewels, weavings and volume. The marble, since the noble furniture enriching an windows seem to render the wall materials (such as polychromed Imagine Gothic spaces as they architecture that succeeded porous, so that they filter and wood and metal) were reserved were perceived in Mediaeval in reflecting art in such merge with the light. No space is for the sumptuous interiors. times, without any differences exquisite detail. left for paintings, frescoes become luminous iridescence. Subject matter and motifs tend Arches are ogival and vaults are to vary, consisting of exquisite, marked by simple ribbing or delicately shaped figures of the assume complicated stellar virgin, apostles, narrative scenes forms. Thrust is transferred to depicting biblical passages, the abutments and flying buttresses. The thickness of the walls is reduced, and these now serve to close off or support rose windows and stained glass. Pillars soar until they meet the roof, offering the sensation of a tree trunk branching out and spreading, yet always with a structural function. Ground plans tend to be basilical, large-scale, featuring a central nave and two or four aisles. The ambulatory, like the , another essential element, transmits grandeur, magnifying the space. The entire edifice acquires a Rueda Monastery. feeling of verticality. Condestable Chapel.

4 5

historical events, grotesque they adapt. Made up of small time (that is to say, the religious Gold and silverwork gargoyles, intertwined plant pieces of multicoloured glass divisions) of the day. The motifs, arabesques and the like. joined together by lead strips decoration, extremely bright Nowadays, this is generally found The execution is both attractive (or “cames”), they form and colourful, tends to feature out of context, in museums, and painstaking. In search of a chromatic glass canvases that plant motifs in the margins, which perhaps accounts for the new language, sculptors came to flood the interiors with colour. historiated initials (i.e., enlarged fact that such work has often not offer us characters with a Themes are varied and usually and often illuminated capital been fully appreciated. Attempt certain naturalism, individualised read from top to bottom, with letters) and exquisitely wrought to see it in all its grandeur, expressions, an interplay of looks God, the Divine Light, the handwritten lettering. associated with the lustre of and expressions, and garments principal source of revelation of metal, the brilliance of the that hung in clinging folds. all things placed at the very top, While mural painting is sparse, ceremonies, and meticulous the saints halfway down, and oil paintings on panels abound. craftsmanship. Clergy and nearest the floor, scenes In particular, large-scale pictures nobility demanded gold and Coloured art depicting Man, with the of a religious nature were silverwork for personal and earth and plants. painted for inclusion on liturgical use. Workshops, across Although spectators retables. The saint or principal the length and breadth of the traditionally find paintings The illuminated manuscript took object of devotion appears on country, met demand by the most representative and its Spanish name of miniatura the central panel, with passages invariably turning out the same approachable pictorial from the red lead oxide or illustrating his story and miracles types of items: goblets, patens, manifestation, during the minium (a name derived from to either side. There is a candelabra, caskets, reliquaries Gothic period the production of the Minius River in Northwest tendency for the form to be and the like. The shapes coloured art relied on three Spain) with which it was stylised, the line sinuous, the reproduced pinnacles, baldachins, different though equally painted. It was a very highly colours pale, and the characters, arches and the like… all rightfully important formats, viz., glass, regarded technique, used to largely realistic, refined and belonging to architecture and yet vellum and panels. produce Bibles and holy tracts, with abundant details as regards elevated to fairy-tale proportions. codices and treatises and, above apparel. Scenes are set against Stained glass windows are a all, psalters or books of hours, human backdrops and fundamental element of the these being books for private reproduce anecdotic Other arts architectural space to which use, arranged according to the objects, displaying a keen sense of It should be recalled observation. here that there Mural. There is a lack of was a whole perspective, depth creative world being created by surrounding and the architectural supporting the setting, with a highly mannered castle, town or Gothic aesthetic, daily scene being e.g., weavings, depicted in the tapestries, arms, background. In the jewels… and grilles. In 15th century, Flemish brief, a field wide open primitives appeared, to the artist’s imagination. constituting a pictorial revolution. Sacred precious metalwork. Lleida THE THREE GREAT onto the crossing. Maestro Golden Staircase, finished by some of the chapels. In the latter CATHEDRALS (master mason) Enrique, who Diego Siloé, compensating for part of the century, the figure had already worked on León the difference in height between of his son, Simon of , Declared UNESCO World Cathedral, brought a radical the street outside and the burst onto the scene with the Heritage Sites, these are the change to the project, Cathedral. Napoleon is said to grandiose Constable’s Chapel maximum expression of transforming the design to a have been the last to cross the (Capilla del Condestable), a 13th-century Spanish Gothic style more in accordance with threshold. On the southern cathedral within a cathedral, in religious architecture. They European tastes. He ordered the flank, the Sarmental Door, of which Germanic and Moorish represent the political and east end to be demolished and anonymous origin, is a superb elements are merged. religious power of Castile, which had it replaced with a chevet example of Gothic sculpture The lantern, was then consolidating itself as a featuring an ambulatory and and represents an Apocalypse dating from the kingdom and was destined to chapels. Only St. Nicholas’ Chapel of the French school. 16th century, is rule over a great empire some (San Nicolás), with its sexpartite attributed to decades later. Needless to say, vault, remains from that first In the 15th century, thanks to Juan de Vallejo. they are the culmination of a frontage. The result is the his German origins, John of long and splendid history, and present building, with a nave, Cologne (Juan de Colonia) house incalculable artistic gems two aisles, triforium and chapels, introduced the in their interiors. many of which date from the Flamboyant Style. 15th century. It is to him that we owe the towers, Burgos After Enrique’s death, work needle and started on the main façade In 1097, Burgos was designated under Juan Pérez, who patterned as an episcopal seat. A it on Amiens and Rheims, with Romanesque church dedicated to three entrances and an H-shaped St. Mary (Santa María) was built plan. The portal, known as the and soon became too small. In Door of Pardon (Perdón), the 13th century, Bishop Maurice, was totally reconstructed in journeyed through Europe, the 18th century. Each familiarising himself with new of the façades of the trends in building. Fernando III’s crossing has a portal. wedding to Beatrice of Swabia in The tympanum the reduced confines of the of the north or church led him to see the need Coronería Door, by for the construction of a larger, Maestro Enrique, more solemn edifice. depicts the Final Judgement. It was Commenced in 1221, through this door its first lines, conceived by an that pilgrims making anonymous draughtsman known for Santiago de to have participated in Las Compostela used Huelgas Reales Convent, were to enter, with the purely Cistercian, with a straight east end and chapels opening

8 León possesses the most complete buttresses, is the main façade, iconographic programme of the with three doors: the centre To many, the so-called Pulchra age, one on which Maestro door, presided over by the Leonina is the most sublime Enrique, among others, White Virgin (Virgen Blanca) on edifice in Spain. Its benefactor laboured. Eloquent testimony to the pier, decorated with the was Bishop Manrique, a friend its importance is the fact that Apostles and the Final of King Alfonso the Wise, who Alfonso X exempted “twenty Judgement; to the left, granted the bishop privileges masons, a glazier and a alongside the Bell Tower, for its construction, along with blacksmith” from taxes while is St. John (San Juan); and, land from which to procure the they were engaged in the work. on the right, flanked by the necessary wood. Work began in Clock Tower, is St. Francis 1255, and in 1302 one prelate At the west end of the building, (San Francisco). Gracing the wrote, “the work is already between two robust towers southern wing is St. Froilan’s done, thanks be to God”. connected to the nave by flying portal, equally marvellous. In the interior, left to stand Erected in the classical period, among the chapels by the its ground plan follows the completion of the cloister, is the purest Gothic design of all north door. On the exterior, Spain’s cathedrals, comprising a allow your eyes to wander nave and two aisles, a not overly upwards and be transported stated crossing, a chancel and an by the tangled skein of ambulatory. Seen in elevation, pinnacles, gargoyles, crests the church is the paradigm of and finials. 13th-century Gothic, and indeed came to stand at the forefront of European architecture for the verticality and airiness of its walls, which afford space for the stunning stained glass windows. To enter the interior, in which everything seems to reverberate, is to come into contact with the “celestial city” of the mystics. Words fail…. simply look around!

Although the exterior may not have the fragility of other cathedrals, it nonetheless

León Cathedral

10

Toledo and trapezoidal cross-section The doors are formidable: the hoarded as many works of art as vaults in purest Gothic Style, he Clock Door (Reloj), the oldest, the Sforzas, wielded such power This city, seat of was unable to withstand local is decorated with archivolts that he left instructions that he Spain’s primatial church influences and designed a studded with canopied angels was to be buried in the chancel, from Visigothic times, triforium featuring clearly and a tympanum bearing scenes a royal privilege. Cisneros, witnessed work Mudejar scalloped arches. By the taken from the New Testament; Isabella the Catholic’s confessor, commence on its end of the 14th century, the the Door of Pardon is the most had a hand in designing the Cathedral in 1226, building was all but complete. monumental; and the Llana Door, Gothic Style high altar, the under the reign of the only one not to have stairs, largest in Spain. Bigarny ordered Fernando III. The On the exterior, the dates from the 19th century. the building of the Chapel in project enjoyed the outstanding feature is honour of St. Ildephonsus favour of the great the rectangular tower Arguably, this is the European (San Ildefonso), the city’s patron cardinals and so the reinforced and decorated Cathedral that can boast most saint. Pause a moment and best maestros could at the angles, the city’s works of art, distinguishing stroke the stone where, be called upon. symbol that El Greco was marks left by the great cardinals according to tradition, the The ground plan to paint so often. who strove to outdo one Virgin Mary rested her foot -a nave and four The octagonal section another and testify to their when she descended to robe aisles- was was added in the power by bequeathing ever the saint in his chasuble. Siloé designed by 15th century, as was more grandiose projects. designed the King’s Chapel, Martín. the ringed by Cardinal Mendoza, who which was subsequently built Although its triple circlet, an by Covarrubias. Cardinal Tavera Petrus Petri apparent allusion commissioned to found an to the pontifical enlarge the choir, since it was admirable tiara. here that the most important solution dignitaries of the Imperial to the Church were seated. Though not ambulatory, Gothic, make a point of seeing by alternating the Transparente -Baroque triangular taken to the extreme- which was conceived to illuminate the sanctuary (sacrarium) in the chancel and the double ambulatory. Do not leave before you have visited the cloister, gazed in awe at the Arfe (named after the silversmith, Enrique de Arfe) a matchless work that is paraded through the city during the annual Corpus Christi procession, and seen El Greco’s magical “El Expolio” (the Saviour stripped of his Raiment) and “Twelve Apostles”.

13

ANDALUSIA Almería

Cistercian designs spread from The city Cathedral is unique 1236 onwards with the so-called for having been built over a churches of the Reconquest, stronghold. Designed by Diego following Fernando III’s seizure Siloé in the 16th century, it may of Cordoba. In the 14th century, lack height, large window the scarcity of stone masons led openings or rose windows, to buildings being re-used, a yet its splendid stellar ribbing task which, though approached and chancel resting on from a Moorish perspective, palm-tree-shaped of pillars was executed with Gothic will not leave the visitor St. Mary’s. de la Frontera Carthusian monastery. Jerez de la Frontera resources. The 15th century indifferent. saw refined Hispano-Flemish Cadiz Flemish profiles are on view in fashions becoming fused with Other outstanding local sights Medina Sidonia in the form Islamised Christian elements, include the Shrine (santuario) After the age-old city of Jerez de of the Palace of the Counts of a phenomenon warmly of the Virgen del Mar, the portal la Frontera had been wrested Águila, while Arcos de la encouraged by the Catholic in the keep of the from the , Cordoban- Frontera is home to an Monarchs. (fortress), and the Church of inspired churches flourished, outstanding set of 13th-century St. James (Santiago). e.g., the churches of Santa María murals, plus the Churches of del Alcázar, with its pointed brick St. Mary and St. Peter (San Pedro). arches, St. Dionisius, St Luke (San Lucas), etc. Subsequently, the city was to be further embellished Cordoba by the cloister of St. Dominic’s (Santo Domingo), the Hispano- As you walk its streets, you will Flemish beauty of St. Michael’s find that the glory of this great (San Miguel) and St. Mark’s 10th-century metropolis and (San Marcos), and the cresting on World Heritage Site, the city the Carthusian cloister. In Puerto that was to inspire Lorca and de Santa María, St. Mark’s Castle Machado, still resonates. After church, classical in style though Cordoba was won back from the with marked Mudejar influence, is sure to prove interesting. Alcázar (fortress). Cordoba Stop to admire the stone porticoes on the whitewashed walls of the churches in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, cradle of seafarers, and St. Romualdo’s Castle in San Fernando, said to be inspired by the Moslem ribat Almería Cathedral or fortified monastery. Hispano-

14 15 Caliphate-style ribbed vaulting, Trigueros, in its Cordoba-style stalactite decoration and lavish church of St. Anthony (San arabesques. Antón); Palos de la Frontera, in the shape of St. George’s Out in the province, sights (San Jorge) and the simple include the palace-castle of cloister of La Rábida Monastery, Belalcázar, the castle of where Columbus once stayed; Almodóvar del Río, and the and Moguer, in St. Clare’s delectable portal of St. Clare’s Convent, which features pointed (Santa Clara) in Montilla. arches and brick pillars. Amidst Royal Hospital. rugged hill country, Aracena is recognisable by its castle, where Belalcázar (Cordoba) Granada the cloisters of the Monastery of Gothic and Mudejar elements San Jerónimo (St. Jerome) and alternate in the towers of its Moors, Gothic came to Granada has a splendid Cathedral, St. Joseph’s Church (San José), tierceron-vaulted church. permeate its churches, with designed by Enrique Egas and and, in the Albaicín Quarter, the In Cortegana, there are two stone on portals, rose windows completed by Diego Siloé, in admirable lacery and intricately and ribs, and brick for the which Corinthian columns replace carved ceiling in St. Isabel’s remainder. This, in turn, gave the traditional bead-moulding Monastery. rise to the Churches of Mary pillars. The most dazzling feature, Magdalene (La Magdalena), however, is the Royal Chapel, In the surrounding province, St. Michael, St. Marina... and part again by Egas, Pantheon of the towns and villages of great of the Alcázar, the paradigm of Catholic Monarchs whose tomb beauty, such as Guadix, Loja, the castle-palace. In Cordoba’s chests, in Carrara marble, were the Motril and Ugíjar, have Gothic -Cathedral, a place of work of Fancelli. The Cathedral churches, with the church in unimaginable perspectives, museum houses notable Flemish Montefrío having been designed Mudejar is manifest in the Royal panels. Other major sights include by Siloé. Chapel, in the guise of the Royal (Real) Hospital, by Egas, Huelva Aracena Castle. Huelva

Few places in this province churches and a castle dating possess examples of Gothic. from the 13th century, all in an Among those that do are: excellent state of preservation.

La Rábida Monastery. Huelva Jaén

While St. Catalina Castle, St. Lawrence’s Arch (San Lorenzo) and the churches of and St. John are the most highly prized sights Royal Chapel. Granada in the city itself, the La Loma

16 17 Seville An inscription that formerly adorned one of the city gates defined Seville: “Hercules built me, Julius Ceasar walled me... and the Holy King took me”. Cordoban Gothic was interpreted here à la Andalusian, with brick used on pillars, walls and arches, St. Catalina Castle. Jaén as in the case of the churches of St. Anne of Triana (Santa Ana), District is home to two of Spain’s St. Giles (San Gil), Omnium unique Renaissance treasures Sanctorum and St. Stephen Jabalquinto Palace. Baeza (Jaén) that also display a touch of (San Esteban). While the first civil Gothic: Úbeda, with the architecture is represented by the churches of St. Nicholas and remains are to be found in Atarazanas, the sublime ribbed St. Clare, the cloister of St. Mary’s this populous city. In the vaulting of Don Fadrique’s Tower Collegiate Church, and St Paul’s neighbouring province, Vélez and some vestiges of the Alcázar, (San Pablo); and Baeza, with its Málaga boasts the Church of the style was to flower fully in Cathedral’s Luna Door and the St. Mary Major (Santa María la the 14th century. of Moorish vaults anywhere in Isabeline façade of Palace of Mayor); Ronda, the celebrated Andalusia, and the Córdoba the Count of Benavente and urban jewel, has the Convents of The Cathedral is a city landmark. Palace, with its superb arabesque Jabalquinto, attributed to Juan St. Dominic and St. Francis; and Begun in 1402, it is the largest in work. Outstanding churches Guas. Torreperogil and Andújar Antequera, bordering on the Spain and was the precursor of await discovery in Carmona and are similarly important sites. capricious geological limestone the Flemish style. Isambret, Sanlúcar la Mayor, and situated formations of El Torcal, is the Gil de Hontañón and Simon of in Santiponce is the cloister of site of St. Zoilus’ Monastery Cologne all played a part in its St. Isidore’s (Isidoro). Other Malaga (San Zoilo). construction and left behind an significant examples are the Duke anthology of bead-moulding of Osuna’s Palace, by Juan Guas, Save for the portal of the pillars, Flamboyant vaulting, ribs, in Marchena, the churches of Church of the Tabernacle etc. One of the building’s leading Utrera, and the castles in (Sagrario), very few Gothic features is the Royal Chapel, a La Algaba and Alanís. marvel. The Birth (Nacimiento) and Baptism Seville Cathedral (Bautismo) portals are attributed to Mercadante and the design of the imposing high altar piece and choir stalls, to Pieter Dancart.

There is no shortage of attractions in the province either. Lebrija is home to the classicism Ronda (Malaga) Antequera (Malaga) of St. Mary’s, with the best array

18 19 ARAGON Its Cathedral, begun by James I The mountains to the north, the (Jaime), is the culmination of this heart of the Kingdom of Aragon, style in the province, there being are abundant in Romanesque, More than anywhere else, no brick present in its fabric. yet Gothic is also to be found, here one sees two Gothic One is attracted by the portico, e.g., St. Victorian’s Chapel interpretations at work, one in the finest in Aragon, with an (San Victorián) in the famous stone, and the other in brick, abundance of , an Alquézar () Monastery of San Juan de la yet both in the Mediterranean openwork gable and a typically Peña, and the Clock Tower sphere, since the Kingdom of Aragonese eave added at a later and some additions to Jaca Aragon covered a territory date. The alabaster retable, by Cathedral. In the area of the stretching from Catalonia to Forment, combines Renaissance Ordesa and Sicily and beyond. Distinguishing figures with Gothic surrounds. National Park are the evocative features included smooth walls, In addition, there are the towns of Ainsa, Boltaña, Bielsa, austere vaults, little sculpture, an churches of St. Lawrence, rebuilt Benasque, Panticosa, etc. abundance of painted retables, in the 17th century, which houses and massive polychrome wooden an atrium concealed behind a bosses positioned over keystones. Baroque façade, with the zodiac Teruel on the brackets, and St. Peter, which features a lantern and So refined is Teruel’s Mudejar Huesca towers dating back to the Barbastro Cathedral (Huesca) that the city has been officially 13th century. A visit to the declared a World Heritage Site. Huesca, situated on the Hoya Zuda or alcázar is also to be In the proximity of the city of It has a Cathedral featuring a plain, is the regional provincial recommended: its tower is one Huesca, plains and foothills offer nave, two aisles and , the capital having the least Mudejar of the best of the mediaeval era. a great profusion of sights. sides having been demolished to and greatest Gothic importance. There is Alquézar, set amidst make way for an ambulatory, and great natural beauty, atop a the Church of St. Firmin (San ravine carved by the River Vero, Fermín), a splendid 14th-century with its castle-collegiate church, structure, built in pure Gothic the loveliest in the Huesca area, without recourse to brick so that it and porticoed square. Barbastro would prove all the more singular. is home to a Cathedral of solid Of the former royal palace, ashlar, praised for its slim pillars only the solid ashlar Italianate and fine ribs. During the Ambeles Tower, encrusted in the 16th century, side chapels were town wall, remains. opened, some of which are curious in that they resemble Teruel province can lay claim to tiny churches. The town also exceptional artistic ensembles. possesses two Gothic churches, Begin your tour in Albarracín, an arcaded square and the Azud an extraordinarily attractive fountain, with its Flamboyant- town thanks to its setting and style tracery frontispiece. In the mediaeval layout. The Cathedral, vicinity there are monasteries at the foot of the castle, is ringed and castles of note, such as by a cloister and the Episcopal Monzón, , etc. Palace. In the rugged Maestrazgo

21

Zaragoza walls. Other points include Uncastillo, which conserves its best Gothic inside a fortress, The city of the River Ebro and Luna, with two palaces linked to the Church of Pilar offers the the family of the schismatic Pope, traveller a magnificent Seo or and Daroca, in the Jalón Valley, Cathedral of Romanesque an attractive town with a origins and Gothic appearance, collegiate church that traces its thanks to the patronage of history back to James I’s archbishops of the royal line. campaign in Valencia. This Albarracín. (Teruel) Aljafería. Zaragoza Constructed between the church reached a pinnacle of 12th and 18th centuries, splendour in the 15th century, it shows evidence of all styles, The 16th-century Guildhall coinciding with the addition of something that makes it the is a key piece in Zaragozan Gothic elements, such as the “most different” of cathedrals. architecture. The great trading tower, Door of Pardon and It reserves all its charms for hall (salón de contratación) the lavish decoration in the the interior, except for masterfullly combines Corporales Chapel. Lastly there is St. Michael’s Chapel, which, Renaissance annulated columns Calatayud, another Mudejar conceived as an independent with Gothic stellar vaults and centre, fascinating thanks to its church, displays a surprising keystones surmounted by large square, collegiate church, cloister Mudejar wall, of which you are polychrome wooden bosses. of the Holy Sepulchre and Mora de Rubielos (Teruel) sure to take more than one churches. photograph. The most artistic Travellers to this province will Range, the Aragonese duo of features are the chevet, discover unforgettable towns castle-palace and collegiate with a retable in polychrome and villages. There is , church tends to crop up again alabaster, the lantern and the whose prize sight is the and again, as in the case of Mora exceptional panelling on Cathedral, the principal de Rubielos. The town’s the choir and stalls. flowering of classic Aragonese ex-collegiate church, joined to Gothic, which mixes local and the castle by a wall, with a single The 13th-century Aljafería, a traditional elements, like the nave that leads off into three sumptuously appointed castle, contrast between the fragile apses, is similar in grandeur to reflects a refined Mudejar taste. brick lantern and the stone walls, . Just to wander On the outside, eyes will or the purest Gothic of the Guildhall. Zaragoza around the interior is marvellous. tend to linger on the Trovador triforium, the only one of its kind On the banks of the River Ebro (troubador) Tower, so named in Aragon. Be sure not to miss lies Alcañiz. Among its many because it is here that the Zuda, converted into an monuments are St. Dominic’s legend situates the prison episcopal palace, with a Gothic Church, the castle, a porticoed of Il Trovattore in Verdi’s opera. gallery overlooking the precipice. square and the characteristic The interior, and the Sos del Rey Católico, the Guild Hall or Exchange (Lonja) Flamboyant Gothic palace birthplace of King Ferdinand, with three fine pointed arcades of the Catholic Monarchs in honours its royal status with in the style of an Italian “loggia”, particular, seem to come buildings such as St. Lucy’s the finest example of its type straight out of a tale by (Santa Lucía), St. Martin’s and the in Spain. Washington Irving. Guildhall, as well as the town (Zaragoza)

22 23 ASTURIAS Villaviciosa, with St. Mary’s. This is followed by Llanes, with castle, tower and town wall, and Ensconced between sea and the Church of Santa María del mountains, a monochromatic Concellu, with excellent Flemish paradise of marked scenic paintings. Heading inland from contrasts unfolds for our here, one gets to St. Eulalia’s in pleasure. Its history is that of Onís, and the landmark bridge Spain itself. In the centuries of Cangas de Onís. Nestling in of the Gothic era, Asturias was a the Picos de Europa Range, feudal society, which possessed Arenas de Cabrales is not only a nascent urban centres, had Cathedral Church of St. Thomas of Canterbury. Avilés mountain resort, but, thanks to benefited from the Pilgrims’ the local Church of Santa María Way and was eager to break the capitals depicting hunting To the west is Avilés, a city with de Llás, is also a bastion of away from the León crown. scenes and the three Marías an interesting Old Quarter. montañés proto-Gothic constitute the first Asturian Highlights include the Church of (montañés; the adjective used to Despite the general dearth Gothic sculptures. Gothic is also St. Thomas of Canterbury, in the describe this part of Spain and of Gothic hereabouts, it is in to be found in some palaces and Romanesque tradition, the its people). Oviedo, the principality’s capital, in St. Vincent’s Convent. 14th-century Alas Chapel, that the most significant the neighbouring Church of examples are to be found. St. Nicholas, the oldest in the city, The first thing one spies is the and Valdecarnaza Palace, with Cathedral tower, “a stone index its magnificent windows. From finger pointing heavenwards”, here, there are two possible as Clarín puts it in his novel, La routes, namely: the corniche or Regenta. This Flamboyant-style coastal route, marked by church, begun in the 15th century, spectacular sea cliffs, that runs to has a nave, two aisles and a Cudillero, a picturesque fishing crossing, where all the Gothic village where St. Peter’s is an processes may be seen, though excellent example of rural the oldest features ( the ribbed Gothic, and to Navia and the squinches and eight-sectioned austere lines of its parish church; St. Mary’s. Llanes vaulting) are in the Chapter or alternatively, the inland route, House. In the Cámara Santa, which first goes to Salas and its Gothic-Renaissance St. Mary’s Collegiate Church, and then heads for Tineo to take in the church and Tineo House, which features coupled windows.

Eastwards lies Valdediós Monastery and the first Asturian church to be entirely roofed with ogive arches, and Collegiate Church of St. Mary. Salas

Oviedo Cathedral 25 THE BALEARIC ISLES THE CANARY ISLANDS

Visitors are inevitably taken aback The expedition led by Juan de by sights of exceptional value in Bethencourt in the 15th century the Mediterranean’s leading sun- heralded the arrival of Gothic in and-sea tourist destination. On these islands. The records show the island of (Majorca), Le MaÇon as being responsible , mirrored in the for Fuerteventura Cathedral and waters of the harbour, was built the Conde Tower in La Gomera, by order of James I. Its slow where the capital is home to construction generated enormous the Church of the Assumption Church of the Conception. Tenerife differences between the soaring, Palma Cathedral (Asunción), a bucolic spot where elongated nave and aisles, and Columbus paused to pray prior the narrow chevet. Following exceptional structural unity. to embarking on his voyage. Santa Ana Triple (Saint Anne with the 1851 earthquake, major The circular ground plan houses a the Virgin and Christ Child) in restoration work was undertaken. porticoed patio reminiscent of a Las Palmas, the largest city, St. Francis’ Church in the island It should be mentioned here square or palatial mansion. possesses a Cathedral with capital of Santa Cruz de La Palma; that in the early years of the The castle’s stout donjon is also compound pillars that exhibit and, on Tenerife, the Church of 20th century Gaudí was called in, circular. Cadiz and Portuguese influences, San Juan de Teide, with a famous and proceeded to transform the and the interesting retable of Flemish retable of the Virgin interior radically, though his work More sights are to be found in St. Christopher (San Cristóbal) Mary, the Church of the by no means escaped controversy. Alcudia, Menorca (Santa María in the Episcopal Palace. Conception, and the celebrated de la Ciudadela) and Also warranting mention are: Crucifixion in La Laguna, At the portside stands the (St. Mary’s), though none of them on La Palma, the sculpture of site of the university that Exchange or Guildhall (Lonja), attains the universal stature of has a 15th-century illuminated designed by Sagrera in the reign those mentioned above. Book of Hours of Alfonso the Magnanimous. (Libro de las Horas). The interior takes the form of a great hall with six spiral columns that, without recourse to capitals, receive the full thrust of the ogival arching of the vault. Outside, the building’s façades are embellished with a rich plant motif-based decoration.

Dominating the bay is the imposing presence of Bellver Castle, the most impressive and best-preserved example of Spanish mediaeval military architecture. Erected in the early Guildhall (La Lonja) 14th century, it conserves its

Las Palmas Cathedral 26

CANTABRIA

Church of Santa María del Puerto. Santoña

St. Mary’s. Castro Urdiales The seaside resort of San Vicente de la Barquera is the next destination. The first sight to receive the visitor is St. Mary’s, its defensive character only too clear from its Santander Cathedral prominent perch above the town and its position adjoining This idyllically scenic region is The latter preserves the primitive the likewise Gothic castle and home to Gothic monuments layout of the aisles, which walls. The exterior features of great value. The upsurge in respond to a Cistercian-inspired three doors, with the south trade in the 12th century, sense of balance. The fire of door, flanked by buttresses, coupled with the grant of 1941 and the ensuing historicist having a somewhat archaic charters (fueros) and privileges restoration means that what one St. Mary’s. San Vicente de la Barquera appearance. The interior, by Ferdinand III, made for sees may not necessarily wide and majestic, is made communication with Europe correspond to the original. up of a nave and two aisles and an early influx of artistic 12th-century Church of the which, due to the stylised currents. The coastal towns The best place to begin your Assumption. On its south side, nature of the pillars, tend to formed the vanguard from tour of the region is Castro access is afforded by a portico resemble the ground plan which the new techniques Urdiales, a picturesque fishing featuring a wide pointed arch of a hall. subsequently radiated outwards. village which still retains the and beautiful sculptures. salty tang of the sea that makes The different height of the nave For the curious, there are more In Santander, one cannot it so delightful. Dominating and aisles lends great luminosity places of interest: in Santillana, restrict oneself to the purely the town is St. Mary’s, its slim to the generously proportioned the Collegiate Church, artistic: the city’s appeal is façade delimited by impressive interior. From this point, the Romanesque with Gothic infinite, with the Magdalena, buttresses pierced by an eye- town of Santoña is visible on the elements; in the Picos de Europa Sardinero, Puerto Chico areas catching number of loopholes. opposite side of the estuary, its area and Liébana Valleys, and so on. Our goal is the On the inside, the chancel, harbour and fishermen’s quarter St. Toribio’s in Potes, Cathedral crypt and Collegiate ringed by an ambulatory, is making it an unforgettable St. Andrew’s (Andrés), etc.; in Church. The former, austere and spectacular, a catalogue of rendezvous. Head for the Church the Pas River Valley, Castañeda; dark, does not transmit Gothic arches and lavish tracery. of Santa María del Puerto, a in , Solares and Ajo sensations owing to its well-balanced 12th-century (spectacular sunsets); functional nature; its corbelled In Laredo, a friendly town with structure in the Cistercian in the River Asón Basin, doorway leads into a nave and an extraordinary stretch of tradition, where the sculptural Ampuero… and so on, forever. two aisles of stout pillars. strand, there awaits the decoration will delight you. Discover them for yourself!

28 29 CASTILE- around the fort in Aldea del Rey, imagine the knights going about LA MANCHA their daily routine. There are more castles to come, such as Gothic was an early arrival on the Bolaños, with a curious access to Manchegan plateau, with the the keep, Alcázar de San Juan, conquest of Toledo by Alfonso VI. with artistic window openings He established a frontier line, and loopholes, plus a small along which military orders museum with Gothic-Renaissance settled, raising fortified outposts, furniture, Montiel, with brick St. Mary’s. Letur (Albacete) Toledo Gate. Ciudad Real churches and monasteries in vaults and , Montizón… which the best master masons the list goes on. toiled. At this point, readers church of Jonquera, set against a should perhaps be reminded that beautiful scenic backdrop in a To see religious monuments, they are about to move through defile on the River Júcar; the you will have to go to , a land of windmills, whose church of Villarrobledo flanked famous for its square and silhouettes will be accompanying by emblazoned houses; the Monastery of the Assumption, them from now on. superb Late Gothic portal of and to Villahermosa, whose Alcaraz in the Sierra Morena church is one of the most Range; and in the stunning monumental in La Mancha. Albacete setting of Letur, a charming Round off your tour with a visit example of rural Gothic. The tour to the Church of the Assumption In the city itself little remains of ends in Yeste, to visit its church, Church of the Assumption. Valdepeñas in Valdepeñas, an interesting this style, with only the Cathedral featuring two clearly Mannerist interpretation of and the Posada del Rosario differentiated parts, Gothic and Gothic. (posada; inn or hostelry) Renaissance, which in turn give Ciudad Real retaining Gothic elements. rise to a curious T-shaped ground However, the itinerary through plan. From a hilltop, the local Outstanding sights in the city of Cuenca the province will lead to idyllic castle, solid and sturdy, bids Ciudad Real are the Cathedral, spots, churches and castles, such travellers farewell. churches such as St. Peter’s and In this World Heritage city of as: Chinchilla de St. James’, and the town walls, startling ravines and hanging Montearagón, a town which contrast with the ashlars of houses (casas colgadas), a great with a complicated the Toledo Gate, a monumental Cathedral is waiting to be mediaeval layout, entrance with large fortified discovered, the first Gothic founded, according to towers. church of its kind in Castile. It has legend, by Hercules; a deep chancel and radial the parish As your starting point, take chapels, five aisles from the high Calatrava la Nueva, seat of the altar to the crossing and three in Order of Calatrava and one of the body of the church. Once the most important fortified inside, the magnificent triforium strongholds in Spain for its size, will leave you dumbstruck. state of preservation, history, and The present façade is the work status as a clear exponent of the of Lampérez, who took charge of sophisticated techniques of the restoration work after the Gothic fortification. Strolling collapse of the bell tower in 1902.

Chinchilla de Montearagón (Albacete) 31 castle; and Garcimuñoz, whose castle witnessed the death of Jorge Manrique in the wars between Isabella the Catholic and the pretender to the throne, Juana la Beltraneja (so named because her paternity was attributed to the court favourite Beltrán de la Cueva). As a finishing touch, see the Flamboyant rollo (mediaeval stone jurisdictional column often used to display the heads of wrongdoers) in Villanueva de la Jara.

Guadalajara Castle-palace. Belmonte (Cuenca) Although the nobility beautified El Doncel (the Page). Sigüenza Cathedral (Guadalajara) Two towns call for our attention: the city with palaces and Alarcón, situated on a deep bend churches, almost nothing dominated by the Flamboyant The interior opens onto a double of the River Júcar and an remains standing. Some idea of Style, which Juan Guas was to arcaded courtyard, with double example of the fortified system, what these palaces must have “nationalise” by the use of ogee arches along the lower in the form of St. Dominic’s and looked like can be got from the motifs and Mudejar forms. The gallery, and mixtilinear arches St. Mary’s; and Belmonte, with Infantado Palace, where Philip façade, topped by a high gallery, with griffin decoration above. a superb collegiate church, (Felipe) II and Philip V were both reminiscent of Italian palaces, is classical and Flamboyant in style, married. The building is decorated in diamond point, and The venerable town of Sigüenza as well as a castle-palace, with a pre-eminent on its magnificent has a Romanesque-Gothic complicated ground plan, in Infantado Palace. Guadalajara portal are the savages bearing Cathedral, characterised by which Juan Guas had a hand. the Mendoza coat of arms. robust towers, extraordinary The palace area with its Mudejar walnut choir stalls, a lovely air and profuse decoration, cloister and chapels, principal fireplaces, stucco, plaster among which is the Arce Chapel. arabesques, polychrome work Here, under a tomb chest arch, is and coffered (caissoned) ceilings the sculpture of “El Doncel” recreates the sumptuousness of (the page, Don Martín Vázquez the 15th century. de Arce), of whom Ortega and Gasset was to say, “This man Also meriting a visit are: seems more of the pen than the Villaescusa de Haro where, rising sword”. Another town to visit is from among the town roofs, Atienza, its mediaeval streets, is a lantern with pinnacles, squares and arcades playing host Posada del Cordón. gargoyles, crests and finials; Atienza (Guadalajara) to Gothic churches and houses, the imposing ruins of Almenara such as the Posada del Cordón.

32 33

Similarly interesting are: cresting, and a cloister, thereby CASTILE Cifuentes, with the Churches combining Flamboyant forms, Avila of St. Saviour () and Caliphate inspiration and AND LEÓN St. James, the latter decorated Plateresque ornamentation. Within its walls, this World with the vices (a she-devil among The granite façade, was the work This is the largest and most Heritage city encloses a number them) and virtues; Molina de of Covarrubias in the 17th century. monumental region. Indeed, of historical and artistic vestiges. Aragón, featuring a Moorish history and art are present to a Examples of these are the town plan and Alcazaba, with Highlights in the province disproportionate degree… and Valderrábanos and Pedro Dávila St. Clare’s Convent (Clarisas; Poor include: Escalona, where, even more so where Gothic is Palaces, the Velada Tower, the Clares) and St. Francis’ Chapel; according to the records, the concerned. This stylistic Bracamonte Chapel, one of the and Brihuega, the importance of castle, a luxurious 15th-century splendour coincides with the most harmonious in the Gothic which is attested to by St. Philip’s, residence, was once inhabited by political highpoint reached by Style, the churches of St. Vincent St. Michael’s and the Peña Álvaro de Luna; Talavera de the Catholic Monarchs, and St. Thomas, the latter with Bermeja Chapel. la Reina which attained great beginning in 1230 with the superbly carved choir stalls, importance in the Middle Ages, union of Castile and León and and inevitably, the Cathedral, thanks to its strategic position at culminating in territorial where the genius of Fruchel Toledo a crossroads… the unification under Isabella and adapted a Romanesque ground gracing the façade of the town’s Ferdinand. Some three centuries plan to a Gothic elevation. The After the Battle of Navas de Collegiate Church is one of the which, to our delight, have chevet of this granite church- Tolosa, Toledo became a major leading Flamboyant elements in bequeathed an unrivalled fortress actually forms part of city in the Kingdom of Castile, a Toledo Province; and lastly artistic outpouring. the town wall. The interior, development that favoured the Illescas, site of a magnificent where the red and white veins construction of a Cathedral, parish church. of its fabric produce a strange which remodelled the urban effect, consists of a nave and setting while preserving the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes. Toledo two aisles, illuminated by Moorish imprint on the layout of splendid stained glass windows. its streets, which, in the words The exquisite apse and retable of a 16th-century document, were warrant special attention. “narrow, winding and twisted with a score of turns”. An itinerary through this World Heritage city would do well to take in the Franciscan Convent of the Conception, St. Paul’s Convent and the funeral chapels of different churches. A gem to end off your tour would be the Escalona Castle (Toledo) Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, commissioned by the Catholic Monarchs to commemorate the Battle of Toro. Basically this was the work of Juan Guas, who in fact lived in Toledo, and features a single Avila Cathedral nave, a slender lantern with

34

St. Stephen’s, site of the retable realism. Covarrubias affords a museum, where the “container” striking example of Castilian is no less important than the town planning in its arcaded contents. In the Santísimo Chapel streets and timber-frame of St. Giles’ Church there is a houses, including the magnificent Crucifixion, and in Doña (denoting Queen) Urraca St. Nicholas’, a surprising stone Tower. On arriving in Aranda retable attributed to Simon of de Duero, stop to see St. Mary’s Cologne. Two sights to finish the Church, its frontage graced tour are: Las Huelgas Reales - by an interesting heraldic portal royal pantheon, church and Covarrubias Collegiate Church (Burgos) and crowning cornice of major Mombeltrán Castle (Avila) cloister- with a whole catalogue proportions attributed to of styles and an interesting Simon of Cologne. Close by In Avila Province, our route will, museum (among the items on Begin your tour of the outlying are Silos and the Roman ruins in part, take us through the display is a figure of St. James areas by going westwards, of Clunia. Gredos Range, a magnificent fitted with the articulated arm following the Pilgrims’ Way, scenic run dominated by that had the privilege of and then turning south. Mt. Almanzor. The starting point dubbing knights of the realm); The first stop is in Sasamón, to León is Villatoro, where St. Michael’s and the Isabeline-Gothic Style see the Cruz del Humilladero attests to the survival of Gothic Cartuja de Miraflores (cartuja; and its Church of Santa María la The city traces its origins to the in the 16th century. The next stop Carthusian monastery, the Real (St. Mary Royal), with a Roman Legio VII Gemina which is Bonilla de la Sierra, where Spanish term being derived from 13th-century portal reminiscent was stationed in the territory highlights in the local church the French chartreuse, through of Burgos Cathedral’s Sarmental to protect the mines and include the pointed barrel vaults the Latin cartusia, of which the Door. In the so-called Campos whence it takes its name. Court and the curious pulpit stairway English “charterhouse” is a Góticos (or Campi Gothorum, a and capital of the Kingdom opened into the wall, in the corruption), designed by John of reference to the time of the of León, it is a site shared by manner of Cistercian refectories. Cologne, with two masterpieces ) lies Castrojeriz, where, gems of the calibre of the Sights In Barco de Ávila include by Gil de Siloé, namely, the among its churches, St. John’s Cathedral, St. Isidore’s Valdecorneja Castle and the mausoleums housing Isabella enjoys pride of place. Continue (San Isidoro) and St. Mark’s. Church of the Assumption, and the Catholic’s father and mother. on as far as Santa María del While no Gothic examples in the mountains there is Campo, where the tower, remain intact in León itself, Mombeltrán, with a castle by Diego de Siloé, marks the the surrounding province is whose lines reveal the hand of skyline of a town reputed to nevertheless rich in these. Juan Guas. have played host to Queen Juana’s funeral cortège. León Cathedral In the Arlanza Valley is Burgos Covarrubias, with a superlative 15th-century Collegiate Church. Burgos is an essentially Gothic While here, visit the local city, and its present urban layout museum, which houses and monumental configuration important sculptures date from this time thanks to its and paintings, such as the status as a “royal city”. Among Covarrubias Triptych, a work the churches to be visited is Las Huelgas Reales Convent. Burgos displaying marked Flemish

36 37

Palencia –that of the Novios in particular– and tower. Also worth a visit are Only the River Carrión can attest the churches of St. Michael, to the historical importance St. Francis and St. Clare. enjoyed by this city, the site of a strikingly beautiful Cathedral, Lying a short distance away is Ponferrada Castle (León) with Visigothic foundations Dueñas, with a church that boasts (e.g., St. Antholian’s crypt – San magnificent tomb chests and Antolín), a Romanesque edifice exceptional choir stalls. In Tamara, To the north lie Barniedo, and Gothic construction. Notable Burgos-borne influence will be Salamanca Cathedral situated amidst fields and features are the chevet, which has noticed in St. Hippolytus’, which meadows, its 15th-century church a stepped structure in the chancel, contains a stunning polychrome having curious vernacular-style supported by double flying arabesque pulpit. Surrounded by Romanesque and Gothic structures paintings, and Yegueros, where buttresses, and the ambulatory churches lining the Pilgrims’ Way as if they were a single building. the capitals of its church merit a and radial chapels, surmounted by is the town of Villalcázar de Sirga, The Gothic section, which affected stop. At this point, you are fine gargoyles. Tombs, including where the parish church possesses the original to an almost moving into the domains of that of Doña Urraca, are to be a frieze on its façade with the negligible degree, was begun the , e.g., found in the interior. On the figure of Christ Panthocrator and in 1513 under the supervision of Ponferrada, home to an exterior, note the apse, porticoes Tetramorph (or fourfold Gospel, Gil de Hontañón. In the interior, imposing castle constructed for represented by St. Matthew ribbed vaults span the nave, aisles, the protection of the Pilgrims’ depicted as a winged man or chevet and crossing. The exterior is Way, and close by, the Ancares angel, St Mark as a lion, St. Luke a positive feast of decoration, with and areas, scenic as an ox and St. John as an eagle, features of note being the Cock spots that defy description. all usually shown holding an open Tower (Torre del Gallo) and Door Once in Astorga, the capital book), and the Twelve Apostles; of Pardon, bearing 17th-century of the Maragatería district in addition, the interior houses reliefs. Stroll through the city at (Maragatos; a people who splendid sepulchres. The last stop the end of the day and see how settled these parts in bygone is Aguilar de Campoo. Rising the setting sun lends a golden hue times), visit the Cathedral, which above the arcaded streets of this to the Villamayor stone of its brings together a number of mediaeval town is St. Michael’s, a buildings. styles, ranging from the Gothic Castilian landmark by reason of its apse to the Baroque towers. flawless architecture. To begin your tour of the area, Standing across the way is the Cathedral one of the most grandiose ogival Episcopal Palace, a work of churches in the Province of genius by Gaudí. Carry on to Salamanca Salamanca is to be found in de Sandoval to see its Santiago de la Puebla. En route to lovely church portal, depicting Among its sights, this World Béjar, where you will see Flemish monks hidden behind acanthus Heritage Site and university city paintings and have a chance to leaves…and end the trip in par excellence contains vestiges wander through El Bosque, a Sahagún, generator of the from different periods, including lovely Italianate garden, you Mudejar school, as will be borne the landmark Plaza Mayor simply must make a stop in out by a visit to the Church of (Main Square). The visit will Guijuelo, where the ruins of the Peregrina (Pilgrim), where start at the Cathedral, which is St. Mary’s defy the elements. arabesques cover the walls. Dueñas church (Palencia) unique inasmuch as it combines Nearby is Candelario, with a

38 39 Its ground plan consists of a nave, two aisles, niche chapels, crossing, chancel and ambulatory… roofed in all cases with tierceron vaulting, except for the crossing which is domed. The cloister, by Guas, which dates from the old Coca Castle. that was destroyed in the Castilian War of the Communities (Guerra de las read “tanto monta, monta dimensions. The following goal is Cuidad Rodrigo Cathedral Comunidades) and stood across tanto…” (loosely meaning, “It the Church of Santa María la Real (Salamanca) from the Alcázar, is notable for its makes no difference”, a reference de Nieva. Features of note include stunning openwork-tracery arches. to the equal footing enjoyed by the façade at the crossing, with surprising rose window. Passing Situated outside the city walls is Ferdinand and Isabella). an interesting iconographic through glorious scenery and St. Anthony’s Monastery, originally repertoire, and the cloister, where typical villages and hamlets, a pleasure palace for Henry IV and The route through the outlying the capitals combine divine and you come to Ciudad Rodrigo. the site of a magnificent Mudejar province first heads in the playfully profane themes: note the Its monumental ensemble includes coffered ceiling. In an equally direction of Cuéllar. Pre-eminent farming calendar. In La Losa, near the Castle of Enrique de beautiful setting is El Parral, an among the town’s religious and the Palaces of Riofrío and Trastámara and the Cathedral, excellent monastic example dating civil buildings is a palace-fortress La Granja, the parish church with choir stalls by Rodrigo from the time of the Catholic with elaborate machicolations. houses a stone retable. The tour Alemán that depict burlesque Monarchs and roofed over with The next port of call, Ayllón, at ends in Villacastín, where the scenes from monastic life. Finally, ribbed vaults of various designs. the foot of the Somosierra Range, monumental church is topped by a another carved altar piece, this To end your visit, take in one of retains a flanking tower, “La cornice with gargoyles. time from the chisels and gouges the city’s most interesting portals Martina”, and an emblazoned of Lucas Mitata, can be seen in at the Convent of Santa Cruz la gate on the far side of which is a Fuenteguinaldo. Also worth Real, where the well-known mansion-house, attributed to Soria visiting are Pereña, along the proverb is written up for all to Simon of Cologne. More castles upper reaches of the River Duero are to be found in Turégano Unlike the province which (Arribes del Duero), and Aldehuela and Coca, a grandiose brick abounds in examples, this city, Segovia Cathedral de La Bóveda, with delightful construction, with walls that slant immortalised in the poetry of ruins standing in open countryside. up from a moat of incredible Antonio Machado, has no

Burgo de Osma Cathedral (Soria) Segovia

Segovia, a World Heritage Site, greets the visitor with its magnificent Roman aqueduct. Rising from within its walls is the “Lady of Cathedrals”, the last Gothic example to be built in Spain. Designed by Gil de Hontañón, it was started in 1525 and finished in the 18th century.

40 outstanding Gothic monuments to this activity are the sights that we To see the paradigm of offer. Beginning in Ágreda, a focal see today. Take your time as there 15th-century Gothic, a fusion of point for Sorian Gothic painting, is a lot to see. Start your tour at the Burgos and Toledo schools, visit St. Michael’s, with its splendid the Church of Santa María de la make for the Church of St. Paul’s. stellar vault, St. John’s with its Antigua, where a haughty tower Its majestic façade, by Simon of pentagonal chancel, and the and portico tell of its Romanesque Cologne and Diego de Siloé, is Church of Nuestra Señora de los origins. The exterior is marked simply intoxicating. A basket arch Milagros (Our Lady of Miracles), by buttresses and pinnacles, leads through to a cruciform Medina del Campo Castle () with its sumptuous interior. Drive complemented by flying ground plan, deep chancel and on to Morón de Almazán to see a buttresses and gargoyles. chapels. The 16th-century vestry and it was here too that Juana beautiful 16th-century architectural The harmony of the different merits detailed attention. la Loca (Queen Joan the Mad) ensemble. However, to see Sorian parts make it a magnificent To finish off, visit the Sculpture found seclusion and death. Gothic at its most elegant and instance of Castilian Gothic. Museum, at St. Gregory’s College Its main sight of note is St. Clare’s, harmonious, continue onwards to (San Gregorio), where Francisco a combination of Mudejar, Gothic Medinaceli and its Collegiate Now head for the Main Square de Vitoria and Bartolomé de and Renaissance elements. Church of Santa María. Another to visit the Church of St. James, las Casas taught. The chapel, The Mudejar Courtyard and collegiate church, this time in where the most significant feature by Juan Guas, reflects the Golden Chapel are of interest. Berlanga de Duero, is singular for is the chevet, which is narrower sumptuousness of the The last point on this tour is a its chancel, which was conceived than the nave. The retable, in Hispano-Flemish style. The cloister, magnificent example of military as a church apart. A special note Florentine terracotta, is attributed Late Gothic in style, is profusely architecture, i.e., Peñafiel castle. on which to finish is the Cathedral to Della Robbia. Without straying decorated, and the heraldic-type Perched on an outcrop that in Burgo de Osma, commenced in too far, you will come across the façade, attributed to Gil de Siloé, imposed its long narrow structure, 1232 on Cistercian lines. Inside, all imposing façade of St. Benedict’s is a rich sculptural repertoire. this fort relies on a double line is grandeur and stylistic unity: (San Benito), looking more like a of walls to defend its keep. outside, there is a fusion between fortress than a church. Its ample Although the catalogue is Its silhouette, encircled by the sculpture and architecture as a interior reveals the final stages immense, the tour through this Rivers Duero and Duratón, varied iconographic programme of Late Gothic, and a choir rising province will be limited to just dominates the countryside. takes shape and develops. above the tracery vaulting. three towns. In Medina del The cloister is one of the most Campo castle, situated atop a elegant Spanish Gothic examples mound (or motte), César Borgia St. Paul’s. Valladolid Zamora of its kind, and the and Pizarro were incarcerated. contains an exceptional work of Your visit should include On the banks of the Duero, the funerary art, in the form of the St. Antholian’s, a stone and brick city that the Romans once called tomb of San Pedro de Osma. structure of a kind that is Ocellum and Moors Samurah rises commonplace in these parts, from behind its walls, those same designed by Gil de Hontañón and ramparts that witnessed the Valladolid his son. As a matter of curiosity, fratricidal infighting between Isabella the Catholic died in a Doña Urraca and Sancho II of This city, a Royal villa (the word’s house on the town square. Castile, killed here at the hands of use in this sense being equivalent Bellido Dolfos. The city’s history is to the French ville) since 1208, More history awaits in Tordesillas. reflected in the names of its was favoured by an assiduous It was here that the treaty monuments: the Treason Gate royal presence that served to between Portugual and Castile (Portillo de la Traición), Doña foster urban progress. Evidence of dividing the ocean was signed; Urraca Arch, Olivares Gate, ’s

42 43 of the Virgen de la Mosca. Follow this with a visit to the CATALONIA Hispano-Flemish panels in Arcenillas and, before reaching Benavente, stop in to see the Flamboyant parapet of the choir of St. Mary’s, the only one of its kind in the . Awaiting in Benavente is the Church of Santa María del Azogue (take a close Momos House. Zamora look at the sculptures on the pedestals in the main arch), the Church of San Juan del Mercado House, etc. Our goal is the (St. John of the Market) and the Gothic Quarter. Romanesque-style Cathedral, Caracol or Snail Tower. Before which houses Gothic grilles and casting your net wider, make a pulpits within its walls, along with stop in , to take in the Influenced by the Romanesque monumental sights is the choir stalls carved by Rodrigo curious frieze of tritons (a sea tradition, master masons arriving eye-catching Cathedral. Started in Alemán (note the misericords) monster, half man, half fish) that from Europe provided solutions 1298, the work progressed slowly and a collection of 15th-century runs along the nave in the Church that were more superficial than until the 14th century when the tapestries. The Momos and Conde of St. Felix. To see one of the most structural. It is perhaps for this most artistic part was added by de Alba Houses are examples of interesting and beautiful reason that Catalonian Gothic Fabre. The attractive façade civil Gothic. provincial Gothic churches, on impresses one as being (inspired by a 15th-century which both Juan de Hontañón uninterrupted space in the drawing) and lantern are both Our tour through these historic and his son worked, make for interior accompanied by a 19th-century neo-Gothic. The bell lands will centre on two towns, Villamayor de los Escuderos. well-defined volume on the towers positioned at the arms of Toro and Benavente. Many an The list could go on and on, yet exterior, moderately rather than the crossing, along with a third unsuspected gem is to be found in this is an area best left open to steeply raked roofs, unadorned tower rising above the main the surrounding areas. Toro, the curious. arrises, pillars and walls shorn of entrance and nave, evoke the birthplace and residence of kings, decoration, and pointed arches nails of the Cross of Christ. seat of the Royal Court situated that are somewhat understated. Toro Collegiate Church (Zamora) on the banks of the Duero, opens its gates to display its treasures to Manresa (Barcelona) visitors. These take the form of Barcelona palaces, churches, bridges and, needless to say, the Collegiate The city’s Gothic Quarter is one Church, built at the time when of the most famous and most Late Romanesque was giving way popular with tourists coming to to incipient Gothic; indeed, dating Spain -narrow alleys leading to from this latter period is its portal, secluded squares, palaces and a compendium that words are churches that are sure to leave powerless to describe. Inside the you with indelible memories. church is the exceptional painting In the midst of all these

44 45

Pause a while to examine the Lleida cloister, templete (small pavilion or folly) and fountain. As you One cannot fail to be impressed stroll through the streets you will by the silhouette of the Old come across a number of palaces, Cathedral dominating the city the best known of which is the skyline, the artistic work of Pere landmark Palace of the de Coma in the 13th century. Generalitat (Regional Authority), The main items of note here are with its stunning stairway, the portals of the apostles, Flamboyant tracery and cloister and slender bell tower. St. George’s Chapel. The churches, In addition, there is the Zuda distinguished by having a single dating from Moorish times and , are typified by Santa María Girona Cathedral Pals Church (Girona) transformed under James I, de Pedralbes and Santa María and the Church of St. Lawrence, del Pino, the most grandiose of famous sights include Balsareny The outlying province boasts important because it became a all. Nevertheless, the most castle, the walls of Centelles… outstanding mediaeval cathedral under the reign of admirable example is the Church and many more. ensembles. In the there Philip V. of St. Mary of the Sea (Santa are the towns of Besalú, where María del Mar), which has a nave, the arcades of drop (or two aisles, an ambulatory but Girona depressed) arches and the no crossing. The slender pillars exceptional fortified fountain make for a space that is at once This is a city redolent with take one back to the Middle transparent and appealing. mediaeval atmosphere that offers Ages, and San Juan de las a Cathedral born in the shadow Abadesas, with an arcaded Barcelona Province too has of an earlier Romanesque square and cloister that exceptional monuments to offer. construction, of which only the complement the beauty of Manresa Cathedral has an original cloister and famous the Romanesque Monastery. ground plan: taking the pillars Tower remain. One is filled with Down on the coast there are: and arches as reference, one gets an indescribable feeling when, Castelló d´Empúries, with a lovely the impression that there is a after climbing the stairs and palace and two guild halls, one nave and two aisles, yet taking entering through its Baroque that is the present-day porch of Old Cathedral. Lleida the vaults as reference, one gets a façade, one emerges into a the Town Hall, and the other, totally different impression, i.e., grandiose Gothic nave, the most the portico of the magnificent that there is only a nave and colossal of its type dating from the church; and Torroella de Montgrí, side chapels. Cathedral, Middle Ages. Wandering about with a church, splendid main which combines Romanesque, the city, you will come upon square, palace of the Kings Renaissance and Gothic elements, buildings such as the Coll, Pía of Aragon, convent and a possesses a surprising and Almoina or Carles Palaces, with magnificent panoramic view from unforgettable cloister. Although mullioned windows, richly the castle. Finally one comes to Cardona is home to a Gothic embellished courtyards and Pals, a small, entirely Gothic, church, the single most elegant stairways, and churches fairy-tale town of intricate lanes memorable building here is the such as St. Dominic’s, with a fine and alleyways, watched over by Parador, one of the area’s best rose window and a notable the Tower of the Hours (Horas) Monastery of Bellpuig (Lleida) mediaeval fortifications. Equally cloister graced by beautiful arches. and local church.

46 47 Lleida’s provincial area has a MURCIAN number of surprises in store. Cervera is home to the Church The Roman ruins dictated the REGION of St. Mary, an ambitious siting of the Cathedral, which 14th-century project, with an explains why it does not face east Famed for its beaches, orchards extraordinary collection of and why the cloister is on the and market gardens, this region sepulchres. The Monastery of northern side. The church was hardly developed any religious Bellpuig de les Avellanes, linked consecrated in 1331 by Archbishop architecture due to its being a to the House of the Counts of Juan of Aragon, whose tomb chest relatively uninhabited frontier Urgell, is the site of an austere lies in the chancel. Other sights of area. However, the geopolitical Cathedral cloister. Then there is Solsona note are the retables in St. Mary’s conditions favoured the re-use Cathedral, a mix of Romanesque Chapel and the high altar, made and construction of a number and Gothic, and museums of alabaster. A monumental of imposing castles, some Other buildings include the replete with works of art; and façade with multiple mouldings extremely old, such as those of Church of St. James and the lastly, Balaguer, with St. Mary’s and statues of great quality Lorca and Aledo, and other exuberant 16th-century cloister and St. Dominic’s, the latter decorates the exterior, while yet more modern, but no less of the Royal Monastery of featuring a large-sized cloister. more extraordinary statuary is to attractive, examples, such as St. Clare, Isabeline Gothic with be found in the Cistercian-style Caravaca, Jumilla and Mula a touch of Mudejar, reminiscent cloister. castles. of St. Gregory’s in Valladolid.

A visit to the province starts in Travelling through the region Tortosa, where, behind a Murcia will bring you to the castle and remarkable Baroque façade, is a shrine of Caravaca de la Cruz, splendid Gothic Cathedral, the The city’s main monumental which make an attractive chevet of which exemplifies the building of note is the Cathedral picture and are inextricably achievements and techniques of which dates back to the linked to the history of the Cross the great Catalonian buildings. 14th century, though the high of Caravaca and its holy relic. The Episcopal Palace, reflected in tower and grandiose The fortress, conquered by the River Ebro, possesses frontispiece on the main façade, Ferdinand III, formed part of Romanesque and Gothic details of designed by Jaime Bort in the the Moratalla-Mula-Aledo-Lorca great value. Montblanc, the 18th century, make it seem defensive axis. Further sights are capital of the Conca, has a fine set Baroque. The unitary ground to be found in Jumilla and Yecla. of buildings, including an plan and elevation suggest exceptional Franciscan church Catalonian and Castilian Shrine of Caravaca de la Cruz situated outside the walls, and the influences respectively. Inside, Magdalena Hospital. Similarly visitors are sure to be enchanted interesting are the murals in Arboc by the Vélez Chapel, a del Penedés, the Church of light-filled space with a St. Columba (Santa Coloma) in fascinating tiered decoration, Queralt, and St. Peter’s Church in consisting of Lombard arches, Reus. Not to be overlooked gables, small canopies, are the area’s Romanesque pinnacles, coats of arms and the monasteries, endowed with like… typical of Isabeline Gothic. (Tarragona) valuable Gothic elements. The cloister is simply charming.

48 49 VALENCIAN Castellón REGION Although the city of Castellón is devoid of Gothic, the style is to be After conquering Valencia, James found in some of the surrounding I was instrumental in spreading towns, such as Morella, a charming Gothic throughout the Levant mediaeval villa at the foot of a region. The new style swiftly rocky outcrop, surmounted by a took root, albeit with notable formidable castle. The picture Morella Cathedral (Castellón) differences as against the other from the trefoil arcades of the mainland kingdoms. Here, flying Biar Castle (Alicante) 13th-century cloister of St. Francis’ is Valencia buttresses and pinnacles -crucial utterly unforgettable. The town is in naves and aisles of different also the site of the Church of Santa This land of light and flowers is heights- are not common, since and market gardens. Its María, a local landmark. home to an extremely internal space is clearly perceived Cathedral is the only one in the comprehensive range of buildings as an undivided whole. There is a area having a nave and two San Mateo, a burgeoning urban and a visit will therefore demand predominance of rectangular aisles. Here, in the spiral ribs of centre, was the seat of the Grand time. Rather than being a and square forms, flat sparingly the crossing, Pere Compte left his Masters (Maestrazgo) of the Order defensive element, the Serranos decorated surfaces, and mark. The parish churches of of Montesa, something that is Gate, with its imposing uniformity of height. St. James and Saints Justa echoed in the arcades of the 14th century civil-military and Rufina are further local Market Square (Plaza del architecture, is a triumphal arch attractions. , a few Mercado), the palace fortress of on which the principal Alicante kilometres from Alcoy, preserves the Maestres and the church, the thoroughfares converge. Through part of its Mediaeval Quarter most outstanding building of all. it entered the people from the hill With the exception of the intact, with remains of the wall, country, “dels Serrans”, hence its 14th-century Church of Santa castle and count’s palace dating Farther south, protruding into the name. An absolute “must” is the María, the city of Alicante has no from the 13th-14th centuries. sea and fringed by fine sandy Guildhall, a prime example relevant examples to offer, but a Castles such as those of Biar, beaches, is Peñíscola, the most of mediaeval commercial tour through the neighbouring Denia and , outlined representative cultural tourist icon development. Begun by Compte province will take one to imposingly against the sky, along the Mediterranean in 1483, all eyes will be drawn to , ringed by fertile farms warrant special attention. seaboard. Its long history the enormous trading hall, where transcends the merely local and the eight spiral columns bearing has come to occupy a place on the the dazzling ribbed vaulting, world stage. It was the Knights accentuate the building’s height Templar in the closing years of and airiness…allow your gaze to the 13th century who gave the wander and let the space flow town its present appearance. The about and around you. The famous Pope Luna (Benedict XIII), gargoyles are among the most made the town his seat during the imaginatively contrived in Europe. Schism of the West, making alterations to the castle, e.g., the Nearby is the Cathedral, a Late Gothic Hall and Basilica. A wander Romanesque structure to which through the steep alleyways will Gothic elements were added until leave you with vivid memories. they became dominant. You will

Villena Castle (Alicante) 51

(wedge stones), decorated EXTREMADURA windows, a squat tower at one side and a richly worked central courtyard. The best instances are In this “extreme region”, the Generalitat (Regional continually laid waste by Moors Authority) and Casa del Almirante and Christians until the (Admiral’s House). 13th century, Gothic took root at a relatively late date. Following A fundamental sight is the King’s the Reconquest, the local St. Mary Magdalene. Olivenza (Badajoz) (Reyes) Chapel, forming part economy was placed in the of the primitive Church of hands of the dioceses and Guildhall (Valencia) St. Dominic and a key piece in military orders, which thus saw Valencian Gothic, built to house their assets prosper and grow Alfonso V’s tomb. under the Catholic Monarchs. be enthralled by the chapels, the masterfully crafted lantern that The provincial towns are floods the interior with light, and generously endowed with Badajoz the popular tower, known as the buildings: Xàtiva, with a church, Alburquerque Castle (Badajoz) Miguelete. Lastly there is the convent, castle and museum; Huddled under and around the Chapel of the Holy Chalice (Santo Gandía, the city of the Borgias, Alcazaba, this city on the banks Cáliz), a former Chapter House with a church and ducal palace; of the River Guadiana still styled Cadaval Ducal Palace. dating from the 15th century the historic town of ; exudes an air of its brilliant The town’s Portuguese past is which, tradition has it, guards Requena, with two churches, one Moorish past. After being engraved in the delicate the genuine Holy Grail. being St. Mary’s distinguished by reconquered, work began on its style of the churches its large portal; Montesa, seat of Cathedral, which is more warlike of St. Mary and Mary Magdalene. In all cases, the many palaces the Military Order of the same than religious in design. Details conform to the selfsame pattern: name, with a castle and sacro of note are the church’s nave Points of interest in the Serena solid walls, few bays or openings, convento; and Portaceli, the third and its two, almost identical, district are Medellín, Don sober decoration, simple portals Carthusian monastery, constructed aisles, and the windows in the Benito, Herrera del Duque... featuring massive voussoirs under the . tower. Highlights include the all with churches and castles. stellar vaulting of its chapels Ducal Palace, Gandía (Valencia) and the Flemish tapestries in Moving south, pause to admire the vestry and museum. the Flamboyant Style door of the Parish Church of Our Lady of To the north, Piedrabuena, Consolation in Azuaga, the Azagala, Mayorga, etc., form a Conventual Santiaguista line of castles, the best of which, (or to give it its full name, the by virtue of its beauty, is that of Conventual de los Caballeros de Alburquerque, a town with two Santiago, a residence built for Gothic churches. Montijo, the Knights of the Order of birthplace of Eugenie, wife of St. James) in Calera de León, Napoleon III, also has a Gothic and the Mudejar touches in St. church. In Olivenza, you will be Bartholomew’s (San Bartolomé) charmed by the Flamboyant- in Campillo de Llerena. Finally,

53

Zafra, where St. Clare’s Convent, Also of interest are Arroyo de la run by hardworking pastry- Luz, Garrovillas and Alcántara, making nuns, houses Cueman’s with St. Benedict’s Convent (the masterpiece, the sepulchre of seat of the Order of Alcántara) the Duke and Duchess of Feria. and Topete House. Very close by Other leading sights are the is a colossal Roman bridge. local Collegiate Church, the Lastly, one gets to Valencia portal of Santiago Hospital and de Alcántara, home to a the castle-palace, today Gothic-style Jewish Quarter and Lower Palace of the Golfines converted into a Parador. the Church of the Incarnation, with a coupled portal.

St. Mary’s. Trujillo (Cáceres) Cáceres In Plasencia, the Cathedral, designed by Egas under In 1229, the city was seized by When in Trujillo’s harmonious commission from the Catholic Alfonso IX. On and around its monumental centre, be sure not Monarchs, reveals ribbing that important market place, there to miss a masterpiece, namely, soars upwards to complicated rose a series of palaces and the Hispano-Flemish retable in vaults, and choir stalls -a splendid residences, so shaping one of St. Mary’s, attributed to compilation of moralistic Plasencia Cathedral (Cáceres) Europe’s best walled cities, Fernando Gallego. misericords carved by Rodrigo today a World Heritage Site. Alemán- that simply enthral. As you stroll inside the city walls, The “golden triangle” is Equally arresting are the windows a range of different styles come completed by a visit to of the Deán’s House, and On the banks of the Alagón, into view, Gothic among them. Guadalupe Monastery, the St. Nicholas’ Church. Just outside Coria is the site of a Examples include: the Cathedral pinnacle of Extremaduran the town of Cuacos de Yuste is Cathedral possessing purely Church, with interesting Gothic. The church, which the Monastery where King Gothic ribbing, and of the portals and a fascinating discloses Mudejar touches, Charles I (the Emperor, Charles V) Duke of Alba’s Palace, unpolychromed retable; the boasts lancet arches and tracery, died, with the soothing quietude a former alcázar reinterpreted Mayoralgo Palace and Lower and a magnificent stepped of its cloisters and ashlar walling; in Late Gothic Style. Palace of the Golfines; the Sun pavilion (templete) in Jaraíz, Jarandilla, Torrejoncillo, House (Casa del ); and the the cloister. etc., are all similarly interesting. noble churches of St. Matthew (San Mateo) and St. John. Yuste Monastery (Cáceres)

Guadalupe Monastery GALICIA

According to the cliché, in Galicia anything that is not Romanesque is Baroque, but this is by no means true. The first influences arrived with the pilgrimages and mendicant orders (i.e., orders that took a vow of poverty and relied on charity). Thanks to the Bishopric of Tui, churches appeared that St. Dominic’s. had a nave and three-chapel St. Mary’s. Noia (Corunna) chevet, Romanesque cloisters with pointed arches that rested Santa María. Yet it is the infinite on double columns and, by way harmony of Santiago de In Betanzos, climb the steep Lugo of a local peculiarity, the Compostela, a World Heritage streets until you get to the characteristically long, narrow Site, that will occupy our Gothic Quarter, where time Waiting to be discovered within shape of the “sailor’s” church. attention. Apart from seems to have come to a stop. its Roman walls lies Lugo, a St. Dominic’s, a certain Gothic Here is a wall with Gothic gates, World Heritage Site and touch is already evident in the St. Francis’, and the humble distinguished city with lively A Coruña (Corunna) figures on the Portico of Glory and refined churches of Santa squares, such as that on which and the vaulting in the crypt. María del Azougue and the Cathedral is located: its This elegant city of glassed-in Not to be missed are the St. James, with a curious apse ambulatory was modelled on balconies, lying on the isthmus tympana of the churches of St. featuring a Star of David that of Burgos Cathedral. leading to the Tower of Felix, St. Benedict and St. Mary, and Holy Door (Puerta Santa). A further attraction is Hercules, retains only one and the cloister of St. Francis’, the church and cloister of example of Gothic, the all dating from the 14th century, There are churches with a St. Francis. tympanum depicting the as well as the portals of the seafaring air in Muros and Losa, Epiphany, on the Church of courtyards of the Royal Hospital. and the austere St. Mary’s in Laxe. Leaving Moraime Monastery behind, continue down the coast to Muxía, etymologically the “land of monks”, Corcubión, Finisterre, where the church has a lovely 15th-century portal and a striking Crucifixion, tragic and starkly portrayed, and -by now in the Rías Bajas (Lower Estuaries) area- Noia.

St. Mary’s Monastery. Meira

St. Francis’. Betanzos (Corunna) 57 Oseira Monastery (Ourense) St. Mary’s Basilica. Pontevedra

When touring Ourense Province, take in Ribadavia church, neighbouring the Jewish Mondoñedo Cathedral (Lugo) Quarter, the choir stalls of San Salvador Monastery in In Ribadeo, the Church of Santa photogenic in the immediate Celanova, and, to the north, María del Campo has two portals environs of its Cathedral. Oseira Monastery, “the Galician and an ogival vault. While here, The building’s treasure is its Escorial”, with its ribbed Tui Cathedral (Pontevedra) you will enjoy visiting the playa polychrome Portico of Paradise, and Chapter House featuring de las Catedrales (literally, beach akin to Santiago de Compostela’s twisted columns. Along the of the Cathedrals), a freak of Portico of Glory. To the Ribera Sacra (Sacred Riverbank), nature. In Mondoñedo, erstwhile north-east lies the grandeur visit St. Stephen’s in Ribas del Sil On arriving in Tui, visit capital of Lugo Province, the of the Romanesque-Gothic and St. Christina’s in Parada del St. Dominic’s and the town’s golden appearance of its Monastery of Ribas de Sil, set in Sil. Just outside Verín, make a Fortress-Cathedral, the portal cathedral provides an example matchless surroundings. last stop to see the imposing of which displays great of the oldest proto-Gothic in castle-palace of Monterrey. iconographic unity and Galicia. Do not miss Pambre, naturalistic figures. Both Viveiro, with the 14th-century Armenteira Monastery and Church of St. James and a Gothic Pontevedra the castle-palace of Sotomayor street (Calesa das Monxas) and will prove intriguing. Inland, Meira, with the awesome Situated on an estuary is one the setting of Carboeiro vaulting of St. Mary’s Monastery. of the most genuinely Galician Abbey in Silleda, an ogival Old Quarters. Here, cobbled Romanesque building, will streets, arcades and small come as an unexpected treat. Ourense squares lead to St. Dominic’s Further sights not to be with its rib-vaulted chevet, and missed are the Church of This city, which owes its very to the churches of St. Clare St. Marina (Mariña) in existence to the chance location and St. Mary, with their Cambados and St. Mary’s of its hot springs, is at its most Ourense Cathedral excellent ribbed vaulting. Monastery in Oia.

58 59 LA RIOJA For the curious, the itinerary abounds in dinosaur tracks. Following the River Iregua, The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago more attractions will be found and the River Ebro endowed in Torrecilla de Cameros, Nieva, these lands, disputed by Castile Villoslada, etc. and Navarre, with culture and Casalarreina progress. Being a pilgrimage In terms of the Flamboyant route, its rich geography is stonework and tracery in the Monastery of St. Mary Royal. Nájera dotted with monuments, a cloister, which is accessible via phenomenon not unconnected the stunning Carlos I Door, with the Gothic Style. the city of Nájera has the best example of Riojan Gothic in the Logroño, the hospitable Gronno Monastery of St. Mary Royal of the mediaeval pilgrim, (Santa María la Real). Another possesses a 14th-century edifice landmark is the Cathedral of which will be our starting point. Calahorra Cathedral Santo Domingo de la Calzada This is the Church of Santa (St. Dominic of the Causeway) María del , graced by a which alternates chapels and cloister and pyramidal vaulted stellar vaults of St. Mary’s; and in window bays, and was a pioneer lantern with original dormered the latter, the cloister of Nuestra in the use of bead mouldings gables. Also worth seeing is St. Señora de la (Our Lady and double-columned pillars. Bartholomew’s, with a pointed of the Star). Also to be borne in No less important are the portal and Mudejar tower. mind are Briones, San Vicente de Bishop’s Palace (Palacio del la Sonsierra, Ábalos, Casalarreina Obispo) and Trastámara House. Cathedral of Santo Domingo de Heading westwards one comes, and Haro, with solemn ribbed In the vicinity are Bañares, la Calzada in turn, to Fuenmayor and vaulting in the chevet of San Millán de la Cogolla and San Asensio. The following are St. Thomas’, a church having a Cañas, where the abbey, Finally, in the Demanda Range, “musts”: in the former, the breathtaking Plateresque portal. dubbed the “Clairvaux of nestling among wooded slopes La Rioja”, is fitted with windows is Valvanera, a pilgrimage Moving south from Calahorra, in the apse, which bathe it in a monastery with a rose-coloured where the external appearance uniquely characteristic light. stone church. of the Cathedral fails to do justice to its pristine ogival interior, features of note include the vault of St. Thomas’, an outstanding example of Riojan Gothic, in Arnedo, and the starred vaulting of the Church of San Servando y San Germán (St. Servandus and St. Cermanus) in Arnedillo. In addition, there is Cornago, with St. Peter’s and St. Mary’s. Logroño the Castle of Álvaro de Luna.

Cornago 60

MADRID said that “it was the largest and most important in all the Kingdom of Toledo”. Continue To see Gothic works in Madrid is onwards to Manzanares El Real, to visit the Prado Museum. where the castle, which houses a Excellent paintings will give you 13th-century hermitage chapel, an insight into the artistic calls for closer examination. wealth of the mediaeval city. Juan Guas enlarged it, adding The briefest of strolls brings the south-facing parapet walk, you out at Los Jerónimos, a Bishop’s Chapel. Madrid studded in diamond point, as a monastery dating from reign gallery or look-out, as well as of the Catholic Monarchs and the quadrangle and the the venue of swearing-in decoration on the towers. ceremonies for the Princes of At this point, it is necessary to Asturias since the days of Philip travel on to Rascafría, to visit II. Other sights are the Bishop’s the Paular Monastery. Guas, Chapel, consisting of a nave Archbishop’s Palace. Alcalá de Henares Cologne and Siloé all worked with a chamfered east end, and here, which is why it was the Lujanes Tower, overlooking labelled the “meeting point the tranquil Plaza de la Villa. or magister. The Flamboyant of the Castilian art schools”. Gothic portal bearing the The church follows the The surrounding region offers Cisneros coat of arms is pierced Carthusian pattern, with a single magnificent examples, such as by a basket arch, adorned with nave divided into three parts, viz., Alcalá de Henares, the Roman the typical Franciscan cord that the faithful, separated by a grille, Complutum. Cardinal Cisneros is the “trademark” of Cisnerian converts, and monks. The east glorified this city, now officially Alcalá de Henares Cathedral (La Magistral) monuments. In the interior, end of the chapel is occupied by declared a World Heritage Site. there are grilles by Juan Francés an alabaster retable, one of the Start at the Cathedral, designed conferred upon collegiate and, in the Chapter Room, a most notable to come down to us by Egas and known in Spanish as churches whose canons museum. Magnificent doors are from the 15th century. The cloister, a Catedral Magistral, a title were also university professors on show at the Archbishop’s by Guas, is the most important Palace, and arabesque section, since it was here that he decoration that heralds first introduced architectural and Flamboyant forms can be seen decorative forms which would in the Oidor Chapel. Lastly, subsequently be developed and, the University Chapel of in time, become the model for St. Ildephonsus mixes Gothic, late 15th-century Gothic. Mudejar and Renaissance styles.

Next, make for Torrelaguna, the Paular Monastery birthplace of Cisneros, who left his mark on the façade and tower of St. Mary’s. En route to the mountains is Colmenar Viejo, of whose church it was

Castle. Manzanares el Real 63 NAVARRE portal. Ujué, a town of intricate alleys, passages and stairways, perched on a hilltop like an eagle’s eyrie, has a church- The bustling city of is fortress whose main feature of home to an interesting note is the Portal of the Three Cathedral. Behind Ventura Magi (magos). In addition, there Rodríguez’s neoclassical façade are the historic towns and cities lies a nave and two aisles that Cathedral cloister. Tudela of the Pilgrims’ Way, which lead into an ambulatory without combine Romanesque and precedent in Spain. The radial Gothic: Roncesvalles, the apse chapels merge with pilgrims’ gateway, home to a sections of the ambulatory, 13th-century collegiate church, creating an enviable spatial unique in Spain for being an unity. In Victor Hugo’s opinion, example of the first Parisian the chancel, choir, vestry and Gothic, and St. James’ Chapel, cloister were spectacular, the with the venerable Virgin of the last-mentioned having valuable The adjoining province reserves Angels; and the inviting town of sculptures on the portals and some surprises, such as Tudela, Olite Castle Viana, principality for the heirs adjacent rooms. The tomb of site of the most beautiful to the Crown of Navarre since Charles III the Noble and Leonor Cistercian-inspired Navarrian 1423, with sights such as (sometimes rendered as, Cathedral. Of massive St. Mary’s, a masterful “Eleonore”) of Castile, proportions, it combined sound 13th-century work having a are regarded as marking a techniques with decorative square-shaped ambulatory. highpoint in European Gothic richness, not confined by Words cannot do justice to funerary statuary. The Church St. Bernard to cathedrals, since Eunate, or Estella’s two of St. Firmin, dating from the these were not governed by Gothic churches, San Pedro de 13th century, is also Gothic. contemplative monastic la Rúa (St. Peter of the way), Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Estella with its lovely tower and cloister, and San Miguel… and so many more.

seclusion. An unforgettable sight is that of the rose window framed between the narrow, winding lanes. Not far off is the magical castle of Olite, rising alongside the grandiose 14th-century Church of Santa María. On becoming a palace chapel, the church grew in importance, with the ensuing addition of the entrance arcades, rose window and Collegiate Church. Roncesvalles

Church of San Pedro de la Rúa. Estella 65

BASQUE COUNTRY

Gothic arrived in these verdant valleys from Navarre as early as the 13th century, but it was not until the 15th century that the style was developed, coinciding with the demographic growth of the towns and the reaction to feudal Romanesque.

Old Cathedral. Vitoria

Álava Paintings in St. Mary’s. Gaceo (Álava) buildings, including the slender Vitoria, the provincial capital, is form of the Old Cathedral, a key where the apostles and polychrome portal with the Gothic par excellence. The layout 14th-century piece, featuring a four-banded tympanum mark a Apostles on the jambs and wall, through which the modern triple portal considered to be a peak in Spanish Gothic. Another and an exquisite Virgin Mary on visitor ambles follows a detailed sculptural jewel. Beside the town church of interest is St. Vincent’s, the pier. Of comparable town plan that established the wall stands St. Peter’s, famous Basque prototype in style with importance is St. John the location of the most important for its Pórtico Viejo (Old Portico), naves and aisles of equal height Baptist’s (Juan Bautista). and an outstanding apse. Salvatierra, in the Llanada Church of Santa María de los Reyes. Laguardia (Álava) Also worth visiting are Cordón district, has two churches to House and the sumptuous offer. Barria, Oyon, etc., are all Bendaña Palace. On the city fascinating, but do not miss outskirts is the Church of Our St. Mary’s in Gaceo -Late Lady of Lasarte. Romanesque, with paintings discovered in 1967- and Further afield, in the province, Quejana Monastery, founded by special mention should be made Fernando Pérez de Ayala, who, of Laguardia, an extraordinary guided by the idea of “one urban compendium, proud of its lineage, one house, one Church of Santa María de los pantheon”, brought together a Reyes, fronted by a 14th-century community of Dominican friars.

Quejana Monastery (Álava)

66 Guipúzcoa Guipúzcoa’s main city, the seaside resort of Donostia-San Sebastián, has no Gothic to speak of, except in St. Vincent’s, the oldest church. However the provincial area will come as a delight. In Guetaria, the 13th-century Church of Luzea Tower. Zarauz St. Saviour, with Romanesque remains, is exceedingly owing to its cloister, which is attractive, thanks to its triforium. listed as a gem. The border town In Deva, St. Mary’s, built at the of Hondarribia is the site of Our same time as the town itself, is, Lady of Manzano, a church that, with minor reservations, the best though Gothic in its inception, example of provincial Gothic was Renaissance by the time it was concluded. Further examples are Bidaurreta Monastery, with its church and cloister, founded by one of the executors of Isabella the Catholic’s estate, the Bilbao Cathedral stunning Lilí Palace in Cestona, and the Luzea Tower in the popular tourist resort town of ambulatory. St. Anthony’s, has Zarauz. an almost square ground plan, four sections without an apse, and side chapels. Church of St. Saviour. Guetaria (Guipúzcoa) Biscay (Vizcaya) In the province, the following Although Bilbao, the capital of will be found: the Church of Vizcaya, does not possess many St. Severinus (San Severino) in monuments, it does have Balmaseda, with a central nave, examples that attest to the sexpartite vaults and keystone arrival of Breton and Flemish rib; St. Mary’s in Lequeitio, eye- influences as early as the catching, with a massy portal; 15th century. St. James’ St. Mary’s in Gueñes, with Cathedral, one of the Basque different vaults along each Church of St. Severinus. Balmaseda (Biscay) Country’s landmark buildings, is section of the nave, and the remarkable for its spire-topped exquisite Portal of the Sun (Sol) tower, portal, rose window and featuring Isabeline decoration; cloister in Bermeo, currently put the attractive solution in the Portugalete church, its low to civil use. Last of all, there is form of triangular and chapels crouching between the the Arteaga-Gabresi tower in St. Mary’s. Deva (Guipúzcoa) trapezoidal sections in the buttresses, and St. Francis’ Zamudio.

68 69

GLOSSARY

Ambulatory (girola) Crossing. Space in which Lantern over the crossing Sexpartite. Vault whose Semi-circular passageway two perpendicular naves (cimborrio). Structure ribbing divides it into six skirting the chancel. meet. that serves as the base for parts or stone webs. a dome. Apse (ábside). Semi-circular Dosel. Highly decorated Spire. Tapering structure or polygonal, domed or vaulted hood or canopy. Mudejar. Moorish art that surmounting a steeple or vaulted section lying developed in Christian-held tower. behind the altar at the east Flamboyant. Late, heavily territory, using brick, end (chevet) of a church. ornamented Gothic (also plaster and ceramic. Squinch (trompa). Small called florido in Spanish) semi-conical vault having Archivolts. Moulding that Ogive. Diagonal arch or its vertex in the angle decorates an arch across its Flying buttress. Arches groin that reinforces a between two walls. entire length. having their bases at vault. It is not pointed. different heights, used to Stained glass window. Atrium. Colonnaded support the lateral thrust Pinnacle. Point of a spire. Coloured glass assembled forecourt giving access to a of a façade. Also called in a lead-came framework building. abutment. Plateresque. Architectural closing a window opening. style that is a fusion of Baquetón. Large bead Gable. Tapering right-angled Gothic, Moorish and early Tierceron (tercelete). moulding moulding over an arcade. Renaissance elements, with Bisecting ribs in stellar ornamentation abundant vaults. Bracket (ménsula) Gargoyle. Grotesque or in orles, medallions, and Moulding that serves as a fancifully-shaped ornament the like. Tracery. Decoration of support for any projecting from the roof geometric openwork overhanging member. and serving as a guttering Rib. Each of the arcs of a figures on the ogives. spout. ribbed vault. Conopial. Arch shaped like Triforium. Series of bays an inverted keel. Keystone. Central and Ribbed vault. Vault that above the arches of the highest piece of an arch. uses individual curved central nave forming a Coupled. Window divided members or ribs to narrow passageway. into two equal parts. Lacery. Geometrical reinforce the arris. ornamentation of Crest. Openwork interlacing lines. Rose window (rosetón). (perforated) ornaments Circular opening inserted that crown a roof or Lancet arch. Sharply above a portal. building. pointed arch.

70 71 GENERAL Valencian Region INFORMATION Avenida de Aragón, 30, 8º 46021 Valencia % 963 986 000 International dialling % 34 www.comunitatvalenciana.com Extremadura TURESPAÑA Tourist Information Calle Santa Eulalia, 30 % 901 300 600 www.spain.info 06800 Mérida % 924 009 730 www.turismoextremadura.com REGIONAL TOURIST Galicia INFORMATION % 902 200 432 www.turgalicia.es Andalusia La Rioja Calle Compañía, 40. 29008 Málaga Paseo del Espolón % 901 200 020 Príncipe de Vergara, 1 www.andalucia.org 26071 Logroño Aragon % 941 291 260 www.larioja.org Avenida César Augusto, 24 Madrid 50004 Zaragoza % 976 282 181 % 902 100 007 www.madrid.org www.turismodearagon.com Navarre Asturias Calle Eslava, 1. 31001 Pamplona Calle Uría, 64 bajo. 33003 Oviedo % 948 206 540 www.cfnavarra.es % 902 300 202 Basque Country www.infoasturias.com Plaza General Loma. 01005 Vitoria The Balearic Isles % 945 161 598 www.euskadi.net Plaza de la Reina, 2. 07012 Palma % 971 712 216 TOURIST PARADORS www.visitbalears.com (State-run hotels) The Canary Islands Central booking office Calle Víctor Hugo, 60 Requena, 3. Madrid 28013 35006 Las Palmas % 928 293 698 % 915 166 666 ) 915 166 657 www.canarias-sapromocion.com www.parador.es Cantabria Calle Hernán Cortés, 4 USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Mercado del Este Emergencies % 112 39003 Santander % 901 111 112 Hospital emergencies % 061 www.turismo.cantabria.org Civil Guard (Guardia Civil) % 062 Castile-La Mancha National Police % 091 Puerta de Bisagra. 45003 Toledo Municipal (or Regional) % 925 220 843 Police % 092 www.castillalamancha.es Public Information Service % 010 Castile & León. % 902 203 030 Post & Telegraphs % 902 197 197 www.turismocastillayleon.com www.correos.es Catalonia Road & Highway Information Paseo de Gracia, 107 % 900 123 505 www.dgt.es 08008 Barcelona % 932 384 000 Serviberia % 902 400 500 www.gencat.net www.iberia.es Murcian Region. % 902 101 070 RENFE (Spanish Rail) www.murciaturistica.es % 902 240 202 www.renfe.es