05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 4

1 The Best of Ireland

At first glance, Ireland presents a familiar face to American visitors. The language is the same, only more lyrical, the faces are familiar, the food recognizable, and even the beer is well known. Many visitors, notably Irish-Americans, experience it as a kind of homecoming. It takes awhile for this superficial impression to wear off, but it will, because this is a unique country in its own right, a fact that becomes clearer the longer you stay here. The impenetrable Gaelic language is increasingly prevalent, and in some counties, road signs are exclusively in that language. This creates a kind of distance, a feeling of foreignness, that it seems many Irish do not mind cultivating. Once you overcome that feeling, though, you’ll find so much to love here. The sheer number of sights, villages, charming pubs, and adorable restaurants and shops is overwhelming— you always feel that you might be missing something. For visitors this is an ideal country to traverse, and with its varied and extensive offerings within a compact frame, it’s visually addictive. Within a few miles, you can travel from rugged coastline to smooth pastureland to towering mountains to gloomy peat bog. You can spend the night in ancient castles or modern spa hotels, dine on fine Irish cuisine or skimp on fish and chips. The country’s varied offerings can be a bit dazzling, so it’s nice to have somebody help you focus. That’s why we’ve put together this list of some of our favorite places and things in Ireland. We hope that while you’re here, you’ll find a few of your own.

1 The Best Picture-Postcard Towns • Dalkey (County Dublin): This shops, cafes, and pubs, and its other charming south-coast Dublin suburb draws include a scattering of good has just enough glorious freedom eateries. See chapter 6. from that city’s traffic snarls and • Inistioge (County Kilkenny): Nes- frenzy. With a castle, a mountaintop tled in the Nore River Valley, sur- folly, and lovely beaches, there’s a lot rounded by undulating hills, this to enjoy. Dalkey is an upscale bed- riverfront village with two spacious room community for Ireland’s rich, greens and a host of pubs cries out to so it’s unsurprisingCOPYRIGHTED that it also has be photographed. MATERIAL Its rivers and lakes fine restaurants and welcoming pubs. are swimming with fish and attract This is a tempting town to settle into. hosts of anglers. See chapter 7. See chapter 5. • Dingle/An Daingean (County • Carlingford (County Louth): Up in Kerry): Dingle is a charming hilltop quiet, lazy Louth, little Carlingford is medieval town. Its stone buildings a draw. A tiny medieval village with ramble up and down hills, and its castle ruins on the bay, its pedestrian- small population is relaxed about friendly lanes are filled with colorful visitors. It has lots of little diners and 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 5

THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS 5 picturesque pubs, and a lovely, his- • Ardara (County Donegal): On the toric church. See chapter 10. southwest coast of County Donegal, • Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’s the tiny town of Ardara looks as if it narrow streets all lead to the sea, were carved out of a solid block of dropping steeply from the hills granite. Its streets undulate up and around the harbor, although the down the rocky hills, and are lined crowds of visitors teeming on the with little boutiques and charming sidewalks every summer attest to arts shops, many selling clothes made the fact that the Kinsale secret is of the famed Donegal wool. You can out. The walk from Kinsale through wander its entirety in a few minutes. Scilly to Charles Fort and Frower It’s a bite-size place. See chapter 15. Point is breathtaking. Kinsale has the • Athlone (County Westmeath): Sit- added benefit of being a foodie town, ting at the edge of the River Shan- with no shortage of good restaurants. non, its streets curving around a See chapter 9. sturdy, fortresslike castle, Athlone is a • Kenmare (County Kerry): If you’re charmer. Houses are painted in driving the Ring of Kerry, this is the bright hues, and with its small, funky best base you could wish for at the boutiques and spirit of fun, it has the mouth of the River Roughty on Ken- feel of a busy university town. Good mare Bay. The town is picture-perfect restaurants and lively pubs add to its with stone cottages, colorful gardens, charms. See chapter 13. and flowers overflowing from win- dow boxes. See chapter 10.

2 The Best Natural Wonders • The Slieve Bloom Way (County the strangest landscapes you’re likely Laois): Slieve Bloom, Ireland’s largest to see. Its vast limestone grassland is and most unspoiled blanket bog, rises spread with a quilt of wildflowers gently above the peat fields. Its from as far afield as the Alps, all soft- beauty—gentle slopes, glens, rivers, ening the stark stones jutting out of waterfalls, and bog lands—is subtle the ground. Its inhabitants include but persistent, and it is comparatively nearly every species of butterfly untouched. You can have it more or found in Ireland. See p. 375. less to yourself, apart from its deer • Cliffs of Moher (County Clare): Ris- and foxes, and an occasional frolick- ing from Hag’s Head to the south, ing otter. these magnificent sea cliffs reach their • MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (County full height of 214m (702 ft.) just Kerry): A mountain range on the north of O’Brien’s Tower. The views Iveragh Peninsula, MacGillycuddy’s of the open sea, of the Aran Islands, Reeks not only has the best name of and of the Twelve Bens mountains of any mountain range in Ireland, but Connemara (see below) are spectacu- also the highest mountain on the lar. A walk south along the cliff edge island, Carrantuohill (1,041m/3,414 at sunset makes a perfect end to any ft.). The Reeks are among Ireland’s day. See p. 380. greatest spectacles. See p. 326. • Croagh Patrick (County Mayo): • The Burren (County Clare): We can Rising steeply 750m (2,460 ft.) above guarantee this: The Burren is one of the coast, Croagh Patrick is seen as a 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND

Ireland

r

& & r

e

r r

n o

a t

e e

n

w r

g

a a

a

l l

o

r

n

n o

t

t n

o o

l

S

a a

o

o p a l l

r r

e

&

t

t r p p

Belfast Lough

D

t

b B Bangor

r r i

S S

n

a s

e e , , p

y A s s v v

r a

N

i i poo

n

a

) a

y r

L m L f l l

r y

i l

.

g g

a a

t

C

A

u

u e i

C o

T o o

To Holyhead Sea Lough

K

B Belfast C City Airport

L

Live

D D

o .

Irish

e

T o o o

T T n T U

r T

t

Strangford

( (U.K.)

O a

e

s M l l

L Larne I g ’ ’

C a

R a t

d

T f

d i

n l S SCOTLAND S

N MTS. I r N

e I

k

t A A t e

l b T r

r h

F n N d MOURNE

i a U B Belfast n N o

O o g r l t

O I

S A1 a

s d p p b o M Bay

N o I

r L r r a B Banbridge

u i A f i n

T f B W

N l D Drogheda x

A U D Dublin Int A Airport u Dundalk O

North Channel O W n e m

l Airport l M L e U i

i ’ ’ D Dundalk

B Belfast r K l O t

e

t D DUBLIN C r

N1 L W n b Int I I n

a H

s l K u A26 A Antrim W s T a s C Island D Dublin D I Lough Neagh a U o Rathlin n N3 R R Newry n N

O

a W N

Boyne O L LOUTH B Liffey Ballycastle Ballymena F H D R W Armagh ) X T E E d N O . E e N2 A R

r

L Giant‘s n

i E A W o . . K H

A R

a f

Portadown N S S .

A6 D r

A r

Causeway

M MEATH L T T T A e L D e

l C

I

t U

M M E Trim H R o

Y K a

(U.K.) ( w

C Coleraine

A4 o

G r

N N R

y r N I I a N

O

N2 r A

B W IRELAND I r r n R

R N3

N

e R R a N a S

N NORTHERN

I E E h d E A

g

h

g P P O

n e h O S S a n K g g r

i

o n A M MONAGHAN l a L L u

d l

o n L A5 I o n n

n

y u A L m o K Foyle a o

n E Lough v L Londonderry r t a M Mullingar e r l n e r M Monaghan e s l a p i e N o n Lough n u R Sheelin p g l r k o H P N55 Strabane a d T l n e W Upper Lough U Upper E Erne i a r v T I u N L a D O K o A m D A f C Cavan R Omagh D

E n Y V g N13 L d . O o L A D n l r M S F A F R CAVAN C A

o

C o T T E G Inny F Erne f L Longford O S Lower Lough Malin Head f M M F N i F E O L Lifford K R O O C W WESTMEATH E L LONGFORD a

O T e L r A Y N e c f Ree r A

r y

C s e H R K e Lough W h Enniskillen o t d G

o

N15 h g G a

A Carrick on Shannon

d

E

I e R m

. i a

K

A N u N16

n

w S y

n . Donegal R

k E C C

N

. t o

T k

o

s Letterkenny Finn l

e S l o M

S O V E A c

l

L

s

a a

O

n I T MTS. M T T

Y a

h m

r P e

l

S g

G

R M t

D DONEGAL

R MTS.

e M EErn

y M

B n P R

r E m i

r A Athlone Athlone Allen B

I T

E Lough

M

C Creeslough U a R

o

I Y

L

D r

T DERRYVEAGH

c

O T BLUE STACK BLUE

B e E k s N56 L e U p c

LEITRIM L l C Tory

o i Y A p

a S r Island

i e R Roscommon N4 s n G a Y T e P o A r n O l i w a A N60 g m ROSCOMMON R o K d i W N15 t t n o k E r r Airport s L r W u t L g E o Donegal A Ardara e o o i r l D Dungloe l Ballyshannon p L e g r R C o i A r R REPUBLIC OF IRELAND Donegal Bay Donegal r S Sligo l i a N17 p K k A o Aran A S Sligo r h A c i Island

G R L O

l

Charlestown C Charlestown m

o

’ K Airport A

G GALWAY .

. t

n C n O

G S S H

C

n

a I T T K Knock I r I C

G

L

t M

M k

O R

A s

.

SLIGO S c X

X e

S R

E

o

N17 O

O t

T E n

W

r E E

M s H H K

o

G i n

d

T T M I

r Tuam p t e n G r r b r L h i e a i o o l g r O r A y N60 e

r p u e B m r r a o y o Ireland West I Ireland i b N26 e a L Lough C Corrib r b Airport Knock A w E i l a w l l k C a S a C Claremorris K Y G R N G Galway Airport r 100 mi E Ballina D A a N A P

Sea R b N R Conn L 100 km North A Lough ’ e F FRANCE A l L T Mask t L

Lough L

A I s

O r

K N A

a e G t

Y t

R r

N59

K C Castlebar a London y

N y 0 0

t o A A y

R e w r a

r

E ENGLAND p

A g

r n M B o t

Bangor Erris n MAYO M

r

P

e s E p i

a r r e

K L N l

i ’

l a

i D o N T A

W Westport S

n K R N59 A O N E f o

C CONNEMARA PARK N NAT’L L o A n A Y

L L t n A h R s

U T a t a

S R W WALES f h u l

O N

E e I o S n C

B Belfast

e N K e

SCOTLAND S M E d

f

h P

i F

t l E

C Clifden D N

O L

D

R

e N G l C E

N l

I Inishturk

C N

A Dublin i Clare Island . I L I H v A L n

Achill Island

n r H D N B

L T

E o t

T

e

E d R A T U t R M I IRELAND N n R a P R Inishbofin E O I IRELAND a A E r W C N NORTHERN O R REPUBLIC OF B L OCEAN NORTH OCEAN O N NORTH T ATLANTIC ATLANTIC A 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 7

THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS 7

& r

r o

t e

r g

a l

n o n

o e

a

o p a r

t r

D p

t ok B r i S

s e

, A s

v br a N i

) a

L f

l y

m l

. g

t g

A e r u e i

u

P o o

K

B C

L b

D r .

e e &

o h

T C n T d

U & r t

Wicklow e ( O a r e ar v s l

L a u g

’ H C a

a

t

d

Arklow e

f

d i L

hg

n l

S S S

s

I N

r N o I

e I k

A t A T t

e

l T T International Boundary County Boundary National Capital County Seat Railroad Ferry Airport b r

r

h

N n N Fi

d

i U a U B

n N o

o o g r l t

O

I O

T

a N11 s d p

p b M o M o

r

L r r a B

u i f i n f

W B W l

D

x

A D A u O

O

W n e m

l L L e U i

i

’ D B

K r K l O t e

t

D N11 C

C r

L W Wexford n b I I I n

a H

s l K

u W A W s T a s C D D I a U o R R Rosslare N Naas O W WICKLOW N O L F H D R W ) X T E N25 E d N O . E e N80 A R r

L n N9

i E A W WEXFORD o . K H A R

a f N Carlow S .

D r A r

M L T T A e L D e l C CARLOW I

t U

M E H R M7 o

Y K KILDARE a

( w

C o

G r

N R y r N Waterford Airport I a N

O r A

B W Waterford I r r n R

N e

R a N a S N

I d E E A

g h

P O n Channel Georges St. N9 e h O S n K g g r i o A M l a L L u d l o L LAOIS I o n n n y u L m o K KILKENNY a o

n E v L r t a M e r l n e r M e s l a p i e N o n n u R N25 p g l N76 r k o H P Port a d T Tullamore l n e W U E i a r v T I u N L Laoise a D O K Kilkenny o A m D Dungarvan A f C R D

E n Y V Suir Durrow g L d . O o L A D n l r M S F A F R C A o C Clonmel o T T E G F f L O S N8 f M MTS. M F N i F N72 E O L Suir K R a O OFFALY O

Youghal e C W E L

N62 s a n O T e a L N62 r A Y N e w c f r A

r y S

C s

e H R K KNOCKMEALDOWN e WATERFORD W h o N7 t d

G o

o

h G T g a

A

d

E

I

e

R Roscrea m

. i a

K

A N

u n

n w S y

.

n . R

k E C C Cahef

N o

. t o

T k

o

s l

S e S l o M n

S O V E A c

l

L

n s

a

a

O

n I

T M T

T T f a

Y a f h

m

r P e h

l o S g G Galtymore

S

R c M

t D

Nenagh s R

e M E o

M y M

B Blackwater n P R R

E r m i

r

A o

B T

I T

E

M

U N8

C a R Ringaskiddy

o Y

I Y

L D r

TIPPERARY T

c

T O T

B e

E k s

L L e U

p c

L l C

o

i A Y A p

a

S r

i N6 e R s Derg G n G N24 a Y T Tipperary e P o A r Lough n O l Fermoy i w a A g m R o K Kinsale d i W t t n o k E r r s L Limerick r W u t L g E o A e o o N20 i r l Cork D l p L e g r R C Cork o i A r R r S l i a p K k A o A S r h A c i

GALWAY G R L O

l l Airport

C m N20 o ’ ’ K

A

G

. t n

CLARE C n O G S H

C

Bay n a I T K I Int Shannon Airport r I CORK C G

L

t M k

Mallow O Oranmore R

A s Clonakilty . S c

X N18 e

S R E

o

O Ennis

t

T E n Macroom

W r E N18

M

s H K

o G

i n d

T MTS. M I r p t Adare Bandon e n G r r b r LIMERICK L h i e a i o o l g r O r A y e

r p u e B BOGGERAGH m r r a o Clonakilty y o I

i N22 b

e Lee a L C r b A N72 w N85 E i l N67 a w l l k Ennistimon C

N a S Skibbereen a C K N68 Y G Galway R N G r E D A a N A P N21

R b N R L Bantry A ’ e Galway Bay Galway F A l L T t 50 mi L

L Clear

A N71 I Island s

O r

K KILLARNEY PARK N NAT’L A a e G

t Kenmare N69 t

Y

R r

K C a y

N y

N71

t o A A y

R e w r a

Moher r

E p

A g

r n Cliffs of Cliffs Bay M B N71 o t

M n

Tralee r

P

e s E Island i p

a r r e

K Kerry Aran L N l

i ’

l a Gorumma

i D o N Islands T Leane

Airport A Lough W

S

n Roaringwater K Killarney R A O

N

E f o Kilkee

C N r

L o e A Bay Bantry

n A

Y

Glengarriff

L v L t n A h i R s

U T a t a R

S

R W Bay f

h

u l O e

Bear N Tralee N E

I r e I o S n

Island C

B a e

N N KERRY K

Carrantuohill e

S

E Mouth of M Mouth E d

f m

h P P

i

n

F t the Shannon l Bay Mizen Head

N86 e

E E

C Loop Head

D N

O

L L K D

R

e N

G G N70 l C

E

N l I

N C N Brandon A i

I . I L I H v A L n

n r D H D N Bay Dingle

B

L

T

E o

t

T

e

E d R A T U t R Island Mtn. M I N n Dursey R a P R E O I a A E r W Waterville C N O R B Brandon L O N T Dingle Great Blasket Island 0 50 km 0 A Caherciveen 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND holy mountain, where the saint is • Slieve League (County Donegal): said to have retreated in penance. Tra- The Slieve League peninsula stretches ditionally, barefoot pilgrims climb it for 48km (30 miles) into the Atlantic. the last Sunday of July, but in recent Its wonderfully pigmented bluffs rise years, hundreds of Nike-shod tourists to startlingly high sea cliffs. They can have been making the ascent daily. also be walked along, if you dare. See The view from above can be breath- p. 467. taking or nonexistent—the summit is • Giant’s Causeway (County Antrim): often wrapped in clouds. See p. 329. At the foot of a cliff by the sea, this • The Twelve Bens (County Galway): mysterious mass of dark tightly Amid Connemara’s central moun- packed, naturally occurring, hexago- tains, bogs, and lakes, the rugged nal basalt columns are nothing short Twelve Bens range crowns a spectacu- of astonishing. This volcanic wonder, lar landscape. Some of the peaks are formed 60 million years ago, looks bare and rocky, others clothed in peat. marvelous from above, even better The loftiest, Benbaun, in Connemara when negotiated (cautiously) on foot. National Park, reaches a height of See p. 521. 719m (2,395 ft.). See p. 414.

3 The Best Castles • Trim Castle (County Meath): Trim, including the addition of colorful also called King John’s Castle, restored landscaping, and the old stables now as a “preserved ruin,” is a massive hold numerous art galleries and Anglo-Norman structure. It was all shops. See p. 252. but impregnable for 4 centuries (late- • Blarney Castle (County Cork): 12th to mid-17th). Until it was aban- Despite the mobs of tourists who doned and collapsed in the 17th besiege it daily, this majestic tower century, it never underwent any sig- house is worth a visit. While you’re nificant alteration. For anyone with there, check out the Badger Cave and imagination, Trim is a visual gateway dungeons at the tower’s base, as well into medieval Ireland. See p. 206. as the serpentine paths that wind • Cahir Castle (County Tipperary): through the castle gardens. Need we One of the largest of Ireland’s mention the Blarney Stone? You sidle medieval fortresses, this castle is in an in under the upper wall with your extraordinary state of preservation. head hanging over a 10-story drop. Tours explain some fascinating fea- You kiss it. It’s a thing people do. See tures of the military architecture, and p. 274. then you’re free to roam through a • Charles Fort (County Cork): On a maze of tiny chambers, spiral stair- promontory in Kinsale Harbor, this cases, and dizzying battlements. See fortress’s massive walls enclose a com- p. 242. plex of buildings in varying states of • Kilkenny Castle (County Kilkenny): repair. At the entrance you’re handed Although parts of the castle date from a map and left to explore, discover, the 13th century, the existing struc- and almost certainly get lost in the ture has the feel of an 18th-century maze of courtyards, passages, walls, palace. There have been many modi- and barracks. See p. 282. fications since medieval times, 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 9

THE BEST OF ANCIENT IRELAND 9 • Bunratty Castle and Folk Park sweeping views of the nearby hills. (County Clare): This grand old castle See p. 472. has been well restored and filled with • Carrickfergus Castle (County a curious assortment of medieval fur- Antrim): This well-preserved Nor- nishings, offering a glimpse into the man fortress on the bank of Belfast life of its past inhabitants. This is the Lough is huge and impressive, with first stop for many arrivals from Shan- an imposing tower house and a high non, so expect crowds. See p. 363. wall punctuated by corner towers. • Doe Castle (County Donegal): This See p. 510. picturesque tower house is sur- • Dunluce Castle (County Antrim): rounded on three sides by the waters These castle ruins surmount a razor- of Sheep Haven Bay and on the sharp promontory jutting into the fourth by a moat carved into the sea. This was a highly defensible set- bedrock that forms its foundation. It ting, and the castle wasn’t abandoned has a remote waterfront setting and until a large section collapsed and fell into the breakers. See p. 521.

4 The Best of Ancient Ireland • Newgrange (County Meath): Poised of the domed tombs, answering your atop a low hill north of the River questions with a personal touch not Boyne, Newgrange is the centerpiece possible at the larger sites. More of a megalithic cemetery dating back rewarding, however, is a hike up the 5,000 years. The massive mound and west hill to a second, more solitary passage tomb were constructed, it series of tombs where you can make seems, as a communal vault to house your own imaginative reconstruction. cremated remains. The tomb’s pas- See p. 204. sage is so perfectly aligned with the • Lough Gur (County Limerick): This solstice sun that the central chamber, lakefront site will convince you that deep within the mound, is illumi- the Neolithic farmers of Ireland had nated for several days at the winter an estimable sense of real estate. solstice. See p. 204. Inhabited for more than 4,000 years, • Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of rit- the ancient farming settlement offers ual significance from the Stone Age a number of prehistoric remains. The to the Christian period, Tara has seen most impressive of these is the largest it all and kept it all a secret. This was surviving stone circle in Ireland, the traditional center and seat of Ire- made up of 113 stones. See p. 357. land’s high kings. Although the hill is • Dún Aengus (County Galway): No only 154m (512 ft.) above sea level, one knows who built this massive from here you can see each of Ire- stone fort, or when. The eminent land’s four Celtic provinces on a clear archaeologist George Petrie called day. The site is mostly unexcavated Dún Aengus “the most magnificent and tells its story in whispers. It’s a barbaric monument in Europe.” Fac- place to be walked slowly. See p. 202. ing the sea, where its three stone rings • Loughcrew (County Meath): At this meet steep 90m (295-ft.) cliffs, Dún little-known site, not far from New- Aengus still stands guard today over grange, a series of cruciform passage the southern coast of the island of tombs crown two hills. On the east Inishmore, the largest of the Aran hill, a guide unlocks the door to one 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND Islands. See “Side Trips from Galway while Carrowkeel is left to itself and City” in chapter 12. to those who seek it out. See p. 443. • Carrowmore and Carrowkeel • Navan Fort (County Antrim): There (County Sligo): These two megalithic is no longer much remaining here to cities of the dead (Europe’s largest) reflect the great past of this fort, may have once contained more than though it was once the ritual and 200 passage tombs. The two royal seat of Ulster. Thankfully, the together—one in the valley and the interpretive center here is nothing other atop a nearby mountain—con- short of remarkable, and it offers a vey an unequaled sense of the scale great introduction to the myth and and wonder of the ancient peoples’ archaeology of the fort, known in reverence for the dead. Carrowmore Irish as Emain Macha. See p. 518. is well presented and interpreted,

5 Remnants of the Golden Age: The Best Early Christian Ruins • Glendalough (County Wicklow): “fortress.” The rock is a huge out- Nestled in “the glen of the two lakes,” cropping—or an upcropping—of this atmospheric monastic settlement limestone topped with spectacularly was founded in the 6th century by St. beautiful ruins, including what was Kevin, who was looking for seclusion formerly the country’s finest and certainly found it here. The set- Romanesque chapel. This was the ting is endlessly scenic, with lakes and seat of clerics and kings, a power cen- forests surrounding it. Although ter to rival Tara. Now, however, the quite remote, Glendalough suffered two sites vie only for the attention of assaults from the Vikings and English tourists. See p. 528. forces, and eventually faded away. • Skellig Michael (County Kerry): Today its stone ruins collude with the Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) off- countryside to create one of the shore of the Iveragh Peninsula, rising loveliest spots in Ireland. See p. 182. sharply 214m (702 ft.) out of the • Jerpoint Abbey (County Kilkenny): Atlantic, this is a remote rocky crag Jerpoint is the finest representative of dedicated to the archangel Michael. the many Cistercian abbeys whose In flight from the world, early Irish ruins dot the Irish landscape. Some- monks in pursuit of “white martyr- how, hundreds of years of rain and dom” chose this spot to build their wind have failed to completely wipe austere hermitage. Today the journey away medieval carvings, leaving us a to Skellig, across choppy seas, and the rare chance for a glimpse of how arduous climb to its summit are chal- magnificent these abbeys once were. lenging and unforgettable. See “The The splendid, richly carved cloister is Skellig Islands” under “The Iveragh the best place to spot the carvings, Peninsula” in chapter 10. particularly at the top of the many • Inishmurray (County Sligo): This columns. See p. 255. uninhabited island off the Sligo coast • The Rock of Cashel (County Tip- holds another striking monastic ruin, perary): In name and appearance, this one surrounded by what appears “the Rock” suggests a citadel, a place to be the walls of an even more designed more for power than prayer. ancient stone fort. Despite its In fact, Cashel (or Caiseal) means remoteness, the Vikings sought out 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 11

THE BEST LITERARY SPOTS 11 this outpost of peace-seeking monks culture. Founded in the mid–5th for destruction in A.D. 807. Today its century at the axis of the River Shan- circular walls and the surrounding sea non and the medieval east-west thor- create a stunning view, well worth the oughfare known as the Eiscir Riada, effort required to reach it. See Clonmacnois thrived for centuries “Exploring the Surrounding Coun- until its prime riverfront location tryside” under “Sligo & Yeats Coun- brought repeated violent raids that try” in chapter 14. proved its undoing. Even in ruins, • Clonmacnois (County Offaly): This Clonmacnois remains a place of was once one of Ireland’s most peculiar serenity. See p. 421. important religious, artistic, and liter- ary centers, a place of pilgrimage and

6 The Best Literary Spots • Glasnevin Cemetery (County memorabilia, and marveling at the Dublin): Besides being the setting for trivia. The only thing it lacks is a part of Ulysses, this is the resting place good shop. See chapter 5. of James Joyce’s parents and other • James Joyce Museum: At the edge of members of his family. The English- the sea in the Dublin suburb of born poet Gerard Manley Hopkins is Sandycove, this Martel tower was buried here, in the Jesuit plot. Maud home to Joyce for a short time, but he Gonne, the Irish nationalist and based a character on his host, Oliver longtime Dublin resident who is said St. John Gogarty, described in Ulysses to have inspired Yeats’s play Cathleen perfectly as “stately, plump Buck ní Houlihan, is buried in the Repub- Mulligan.” The museum was opened lican plot. The writer, drinker, and in 1962, and its interior has been Irish Republican Brendan Behan is restored to look as it did when Joyce also buried here. See p. 145. was here, along with plenty of mem- • Davy Byrnes Pub: In Ulysses Joyce orabilia, including Joyce’s walking describes the main character, Leopold stick and guitar. See chapter 5. Bloom, stopping in at this Dublin • St. Patrick’s Cathedral (County pub for a Gorgonzola sandwich and a Dublin): Jonathan Swift tickled and glass of burgundy. “He raised his eyes horrified the world with his vicious and met the stare of a bilious clock. wit. He shook up political establish- Two. Pub clock five minutes fast. ments with his sarcasm, and nause- Time going on. Hands moving. Two. ated the English-speaking world with Not yet.” Today the clock is said to be his suggestion that people should kept 5 minutes fast, in honor of dine on Irish babies. While kicking Bloom and Joyce. See chapter 5. up such a stir, he was dean of St. • Dublin Writers Museum: With Patrick’s Cathedral, which sponsored Joyce’s typewriter, handwritten letters and supported him through it all. He from Brendan Behan to friends back is buried here alongside his longtime home, and early flyers from the companion, Stella. See p. 140. Abbey Theatre when it was run by • County Sligo: With its many con- Lady Gregory and Yeats, this nections to the beloved poet W.B. museum is heaven for bookish types. Yeats, this county is a pilgrimage des- You can spend hours reading the tination for Yeats fans. The poet’s 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND writing was shaped by the landscape are also several museums housing first and people in this farming region, editions, photographs, and other and many of its monuments— memorabilia, and Yeats’s dark and including Lough Gill, Glencar Lake, somber grave is in Drumcliff. See Ben Bulben Mountain, and Maeve’s chapter 14. tomb—appear in his poetry. There

7 The Best Gardens • Powerscourt Gardens (County Casita at its center, is linked to a Wicklow): This grandiose Irish gar- “wild garden” that showcases a collec- den is set amid the natural splendor tion of rhododendrons, azaleas, and of the Wicklow Hills just outside of rare trees. See p. 296. Dublin. The sprawling, manicured • Glenveagh National Park (County gardens and the wild beauty of the Donegal): A castle and its gardens Powerscourt waterfall make this a stretch across a strangely barren valley great day’s outing, and a respite from high in the hills of Donegal, along the noise and congestion of the city. the banks of Lough Veagh. The See p. 184. sprawling park contains a grand stat- • Japanese Gardens (County Kildare): uary garden, a walled garden, and a On the grounds of the National Stud, rhododendron-lined path that leads this peaceful enclave is based on the to a stunning view of the castle and traditional designs of Japanese gar- lake. See p. 472. dens. A Japanese specialist planned • Mount Stewart Gardens (County the structure and its symbolism, and Down): Built upon an elaborate plan, most of the plants and stones were the Mount Stewart house has several imported from Japan. See p. 196. gardens of distinctive character. The • Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferry Ards Peninsula provides a climate conveys visitors from a rhododen- conducive to cultivating many sub- dron-framed bay in the town of tropical species. The statuary, topiary, Glengarriff to Garinish Island, the and planting designs reflect a touch unlikely site of a fine Italianate gar- of whimsy. See p. 512. den. The formal garden, with the

8 The Best Family Activities • Dublin Zoo in the Phoenix Park land, from its first inhabitants to its (Dublin): Kids love this sympatheti- Norman conquerors. See p. 216. cally designed zoo, with its wild crea- • Fota Island Wildlife Park (County tures, animal-petting corners, and Cork): In this wildlife park, rare and train ride. The surrounding park has endangered animals roam freely. room to run, picnic, and explore. See You’ll see everything from giraffes p. 152. and zebras to kangaroos, flamingos, • Irish National Heritage Park penguins, and monkeys wandering (County Wexford): Nearly 9,000 the grassland. Add in a small amuse- years of Irish history come alive here ment park for toddlers, a tour train, in ways that will fascinate visitors of picnic tables, and a gift shop and you all ages. The whole family will be cap- have the makings of a wonderful fam- tivated by the story of ancient Ire- ily outing. See p. 289. 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 13

THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS 13 • Muckross House & Gardens (Kil- enough for ample sightings. You can larney, County Kerry): This huge also arrange an early-morning dol- Victorian mansion with its exquisite phin swim. See p. 435. gardens is also home to skilled arti- • Bunratty Castle and Folk Park sans at work. Nearby are a series of (County Clare): Kids are enthralled reconstructed traditional farms, with by this well-restored medieval castle animals and docents, providing a and re-created 19th-century village. gateway to rural Ireland as it was for It’s complete with a school and loaded centuries. See p. 321. with active craftspeople. See p. 365. • Fungie the Dolphin Tours (Dingle, • Marble Arch Caves (Marlbank, County Kerry): Every day, fishing County Fermanagh): Adventurous boats ferry visitors out into the families are guided by boat through nearby waters to see Fungie, the well-lit underground waterways to friendliest dolphin you’re ever likely explore caves and view amazing stone to meet. Fungie swims right up to the formations. See p. 556. boat, and the boatmen stay out long

9 The Best Active Vacations • Sailing Ireland’s West Coast: Spec- • Bicycling in the Southwest: The tacular coastal scenery, interesting peninsulas and islands of Cork and harbor towns, and an abundance of Kerry are perfect for cycling, with an islands make the west coast a delight abundance of beautiful places to visit. for cruising sailors. See “Sailing” in Roycroft’s Stores in Skibbereen, chapter 4. County Cork, rent bikes that are a • Horseback Riding in Donegal: The notch above the usual rental equip- wild and woolly coast of Donegal ment. See the “Sports & Outdoor offers the perfect scenic backdrop for Pursuits” sections in chapters 9 trail riding, and as varied a terrain— and 10. beaches, countryside, mountains—as • Walking the Donegal Coast: The you’ll find anywhere. See p. 465. rugged headlands of Donegal are the • Sea Kayaking in West Cork: In most spectacular in Ireland, and the Castletownbere on the dramatic, best way to explore them is on foot. rugged Beara Peninsula, Beara Out- Among the finest walks are Slieve door Pursuits specializes in accompa- League, Malin Head, and Horn nied trips out and around Bere Island Head. See “The Donegal Bay Coast” and as far as Glengarriff. You can play in chapter 15. it as safe or as rough as you want. See p. 298.

10 The Best Luxury Accommodations • The Clarence (Dublin; & 01/407- schemes, to the luxurious bed linens, 0800; www.theclarence.ie): Owned to the huge beds, and the helpful by members of the band U2, the staff. The Octagon Bar is a relaxing Clarence is a perfect mixture of sleek hangout, while the Tea Room restau- sophistication and coolness. Every- rant is one of the best eateries in thing here is designed for subtle ele- town. The new spa will pummel and gance, from the soft, neutral color facial you into relaxation, while the 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND staff members hurry off to find your heirlooms, and the walls are deco- favorite red wine. Staying here is a rated with Raymond Piper’s mural real treat. See p. 112. paintings of the Burren. Guest rooms • Brook Lodge Hotel (County Wick- are spacious and elegantly decorated low; & 0402/36444; www.brook in muted colors with antique pieces, lodge.com): This place keeps getting and all have expansive views of the better and better. Rooms have firm spectacular countryside. Dinners here king-size four-poster beds, wood-pan- are outstanding, and eating in is eled window seats, deep bathtubs, worth every penny. See p. 378. quality linens, and contemporary fur- • Delphi Lodge (County Galway; nishings. The latest addition to this & 095/42222): This was once the holistic oasis is The Wells, a gorgeous country hideaway for the marquis of spa with Finnish baths, mud baths, Sligo, and now it can be yours. hot tubs, Jacuzzis, indoor and outdoor Inside, the emphasis is on clean, pools, a hammam (Turkish bath), and bright simplicity and perfect taste; a flotation room in which you’re sure the grounds and environs are spectac- to relax. See p. 190. ular. “Tranquillity,” “comfort,” and, • Glin Castle (County Limerick; well, “fishing” are the operative words & 068/34173; www.glincastle.com): here. You will want to stay longer This beautifully restored, 18th-cen- than you’d planned—and by renting tury castle guesthouse near the one of the cottages for a week or mouth of the Shannon is a peaceful more, you can make the indulgence and elegant place to pass an evening more affordable. See p. 417. or two. Owned for centuries by the • The Park Hotel Kenmare (County knights of Glin, it is all very well Kerry; & 800/323-5463 in the U.S., done, with multiple parlors warmed or 064/41200; www.parkkenmare. by crackling fires, walled gardens, and com): In a palm-tree-lined garden beautiful grounds to explore. Rooms beside Kenmare Bay, this imposing are huge and gorgeously appointed 19th-century hotel is grand and luxu- with antiques, and the staff is friendly rious. In the high-ceilinged sitting and helpful. It offers class without rooms, fires crackle in the open fire- snobbery. See p. 357. places, oil paintings decorate the • Gregans Castle Hotel (County walls, and there’s a full set of armor at Clare; & 800/323-5463 in the U.S., the top of the grand staircase sur- or 065/707-7005; www.gregans.ie): rounded by tapestries and rare Not a castle at all, but an ivy-covered, antiques. Guest rooms have Georgian stone manor house, this small, fam- and Victorian furnishings and peace- ily-run hotel is filled with light, and it ful waterfront or mountain views. has lovely views of the Burren and The guest-only, in-house spa is Galway Bay. The drawing room and extraordinary. See p. 314. expansive hallways are filled with

11 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations • Moy House (County Clare; & 065/ have comfortable, modern beds cov- 708-2800; www.moyhouse.com): ered in crisp Irish linens, and are dec- This unusual 19th-century tower orated with original paintings and house atop a hill overlooking the sea period antiques. Bathrooms are beau- is beautiful inside and out. Rooms tifully designed to combine modern 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 15

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS 15 conveniences with the building’s old lies at the end of a long private drive architecture (a glass panel in one on the banks of the mirrorlike waters room provides a look down into an of Lough Swilly. Rooms are big and old well). Downstairs, the small, beautifully detailed, with a soft color attractive dining room serves up scheme, claw-foot tubs, and private excellent food and has a sea view. It’s patios. There are half a dozen drawing a snug, warm, friendly place to visit. rooms in which you can relax on big See p. 382. leather sofas by open fires. The staff is • Temple House (County Sligo; friendly and open, and the atmos- & 071/918-3329; www.temple phere is one of pure rural rest and house.ie): Roderick and Helena relaxation. See p. 475. Perceval’s grand Victorian manor • The Bervie (County Mayo; & 098/ house is an extraordinary place where 43114; www.bervieachill.com): Views ceilings soar to the stratosphere, mar- really don’t get any better than this— ble stays solidly underfoot, and the right at the edge of the sea, overlook- family’s working farm stretches out ing the cliffs across the bay. This cozy for miles around you. A Templar cas- retreat is an ideal place to stay for tle lies in ruins on the banks of their those exploring Ireland’s wild west lake, well stocked with fish. To spend coast. Owners Elizabeth and John a few days here is to experience a dif- Barrett are charming hosts who greet ferent world. See p. 447. you with fresh scones and will cook • The Bastion (County Westmeath; you a delightful dinner if you wish. & 090/649-4954; www.thebastion. The house is a former Coast Guard net): This simple and peaceful guest- station—as solid as a rock, and as house in the heart of colorful Athlone comforting as a security blanket. This is a find. Run by brothers Vinny and is one of our favorite places in Ire- Anthony McCay, it has a minimalist land. See p. 436. approach, with clean white walls and • Ross Castle and House (County crisp white linens contrasted with Cavan; & 043/81286 castle, or 049/ dark polished wood. The big, ram- 854-0218 house): A tower room in a bling house is comfortable, friendly, centrally heated, haunted castle and perfectly located for touring awaits you at Ross Castle. It won’t Athlone or as a base for exploring the take too big a bite out of your wallet, surrounding countryside. See p. 425. either. It might not be elegant, but it • Bruckless House (County Donegal; is unquestionably memorable. Warm, & 074/973-7071): This mid-18th- comfortable Ross Castle and nearby century farmhouse, restored with Ross House are great places to relax impeccable taste, has many charms, beside Lough Sheelin, a noteworthy including award-winning gardens source of trout and pike. See p. 455. and a stable of Connemara ponies. • Slieve Croob Inn (County Down; Spacious, welcoming, and comfort- & 028/4377-1412): Whether you able, Bruckless House feels like home want to drop anchor and set up a (or better) after only a very short home away from home in a self-cater- time. See p. 469. ing cottage or just spend a night in a • Rathmullan House (County Done- stunning landscape, you’ll adore this gal; & 800/223-6510 in the U.S., or tasteful hideaway in the magical 074/915-8188 in Ireland; www. Mournes. See p. 532. rathmullanhouse.com): This getaway 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND

12 The Best Restaurants • Chapter One (County Dublin; & 01/ of Lough Arrow and environs, 873-2266): Arguably the city’s most Christy and Moira Tighe have created atmospheric restaurant, this remark- a culinary destination with few peers. able eatery fills the vaulted basement The menu, Irish in focus, changes space of the Dublin Writers Museum. daily. The eight-course gourmet menu Artfully lighted and tastefully deco- is the ultimate indulgence. See p. 446. rated, it offers a menu with local, • The Corncrake (County Donegal; organic ingredients, all cleverly used & 074/937-4534): Such a judicious in dishes like the ravioli with Irish blend of fresh ingredients and culi- goat cheese and warm asparagus. Fab- nary imagination is a rare treat. The ulous! See p. 132. nettle soup, roast lamb, and desserts • Grapefruit Moon (County Cork; of Noreen Lynch and Brid McCart- & 021/464-6646): Here’s an ele- ney warrant a detour to the town of gant, pared-down place in the middle Carndonagh, where the living room of Ballycotton, an appealing village in of a small row house has been trans- East Cork. Run by members of the formed into an extraordinary restau- Allen family, of Ballymaloe fame, its rant. See p. 481. key to everything is using the freshest • James Street South (County Antrim; ingredients obtainable. See p. 291. & 028/9043-4310; www.jamesstreet • The Chart House (County Kerry; south.co.uk): This is the table of the & 066/915-2255): In this inviting moment in Belfast. This place is a hit bistro, everyone comes for Laura because of the terrific cooking, which Boyce’s confident, simple cooking. delivers modern classics with an Irish Think wonderful comfort food with twist. The lamb is always excellent, a flair—the kind of food you never and shouldn’t be missed. Portions are tire of. And the service is, as the Irish generous, the wine list very good, the would say, “spot on.” See p. 340. crowd rapturous. See p. 505. • The Wild Geese (County Limerick; • The Narrows (County Down; & 061/396451): After spending & 028/4272-8148): Who’d have years making other people’s restau- thought that the sleepy little water- rants fabulous, owner-chef David side hamlet of Portaferry would have Foley created a gem of his own in a restaurant like this? Danny Millar is Limerick. The cooking is complex, one of the hottest young chefs on this exquisitely flavorful, and refined. See island—just ask Food & Wine maga- p. 359. zine—and his complex, yet earthy, • Cromleach Lodge (County Sligo; cooking is worth going out of your & 071/916-5155): In this lovely way for. See p. 515. country house with panoramic views

13 The Best Pubs • Abbey Tavern (County Dublin): A known far and wide for its ballads as short distance from Dublin center, well as its brew. See p. 168. the Abbey Tavern is the perfect place • Brazen Head (County Dublin): to recover and refuel after spending a Nearly qualifying as one of Ireland’s day exploring Dublin. The Abbey is ancient sites, the Brazen Head, 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 17

THE BEST WEBSITES 17 commissioned by Charles II, is more genuine article without the hype. See than 300 years old, but its stout is as p. 384. fresh as it comes. Among its illustri- • Moran’s Oyster Cottage (County ous alumni are Wolfe Tone, Daniel Galway): Famed for its seafood, this O’Connell, and Robert Emmet, who centuries-old thatched-cottage pub planned the Dublin rising of 1803 on the weir also draws a perfect pint. under the Head’s low timbers. See This may well be the oyster capital of p. 164. Ireland. It’s 19km (12 miles) out of • The Long Valley (County Cork): For Galway and well worth the drive—or anyone who knows and loves Cork, the walk, for that matter. See p. 402. this is a place of pilgrimage. There’s • Smuggler’s Creek (County Done- one endless, low-slung room with a gal): This place is worth a stop if only bar running its full length, doors for its spectacular cliff-top views of taken from an ocean liner, barmen in Donegal Bay. Stone walls, beamed white butchers’ coats, and a selection ceilings, open fires, excellent fare, and of delectable sandwiches. It’s a slice of the brew that’s true are among the heaven. See p. 278. charms that proprietor Conor Brit- • McGann’s (County Clare): Doolin, a ton has on tap. See p. 466. dot of a town on the Clare Coast, is • Crown Liquor Saloon (County a magnet for traditional Irish musi- Antrim): This National Trust pub, cians—and a wonderful spot to hear across from the Grand Opera House impromptu sessions of Irish music. in Belfast, is a Victorian gem. Your Gus O’Connor’s, down the road, mouth will drop open at its antique is more famous (but also thicker publican splendor even before you lift with tourists); McGann’s remains the your first pint. See p. 507.

14 The Best Websites • Dublin Tourist Office (www.visit • Irish Tourist Board (www.ireland.ie): dublin.com): This site is the most Bord Fáilte’s site is both easy to navi- comprehensive resource for visiting gate and extremely informative. It’s an the capital. We especially like the new excellent place to start gathering ideas last-minute booking service, which for your trip. lets you find out which hotels and • AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch. guesthouses have immediate avail- ie): Planning on driving? The route- ability, as well as which are offering planning feature of the Irish Automo- the best discounts. bile Association’s site is brilliantly • Irelandhotels.com (www.ireland simple. Plug in a starting point and hotels.com): What catapults this destination and you’ll get a detailed, accommodations database ahead of no-brainer set of directions from A the raft of hotel-finding sites is its to B. “search by facility” function. Gotta • Entertainment Ireland (www. have a gym? Need to find a babysitter? entertainment.ie): This handy, exhaus- Want an in-room dataport for your tive, searchable database includes just laptop? No problem. Plug in your about every event in Ireland, from requirements and you’ll get a list of museum exhibitions and rock concerts hotels and guesthouses that fit the bill. to new plays and nightclub theme 05_175927 ch01.qxp 11/12/07 2:44 PM Page 18

18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND nights—and there are well-written • Newshound (www.nuzhound.com): reviews of them all. Hands down, this is the best single • Irish Family History Foundation resource for keeping up-to-date on (www.irishroots.net): This new, com- Northern Ireland. It’s a searchable prehensive genealogy resource con- library of news articles about devel- tains documentation from all 32 opments in the North, including a counties. Much of the archived infor- terrific timeline of key events in “the mation is free for your perusal, or you Troubles.” In addition, there are arti- can avail yourself of researchers. cles on the republic, as well as travel and dining reviews.