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Vol 6 No 4 Fall 1993

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J ~ 01.,tum£'t 1., 1,.Jua'[tE'[fy Volume 6 Number 4 Fall 1993 Edited by James Kovalcin Cover art by Susan L. Toker With great thanks to the following people for submitting articles: Susan L. Toker Betsy Marks C. E. Ballis Nora Mai Toni Lay Cat Devereaux Pierre Pettinger Wendy Purcell Table of Contents Beginner's Porcupine Quill Work ---------- 4 The Creation of Agalla- ------------------ 6 Australasian ScilFi Media Convention ---------- 8 Costume Trends in Middle Eastern Dance -------- 10 Coming attractions ----------- - - - - - - - - - --- 12 ConFrancisco; A Personal View ---------------- 13 ConFrancisco; Masquerade Winners- ------------- 16 Magic of Camelot --- - -------------------- 18 President' Message --- - - ----------------- 21 Murphy's Laws of Sequins -- - --------------- 22 Guild Chapters- ----------- - ---- - ------- 23 Th~ COSlum~r's Qu.rt~r1y - F.U1993 3 Beginner's Porcupine Quill Work by Susan L. Toker ------------------> My experimentation with quill work is about $4.50 for a 1/4 oz undyed and $5.50 dyed. really the fault of ''The Last of the Mohicans", My one, only and yet incomplete project from a demonstration by a Lakota woman at our was to make an wrist band using quill wrapped local museum. She talked about beadwork, leather 1/4 "strips. I made my biggest mistake in quillwork and brain-tanned leather and using a thin suede leather that is very stretchy. demonstrated some of the basics of each. Er, I While I will be able to work around this, I hope, it should also mention that I was "guilted" into is not a good backing choice. Non-stretchy writing an article, You can untwist my arm now, materials that can be pierced by sewing needles Jim. are best, like raw hide, denim, canvas, ultrasuede, Quills were used by Native Americans brain-tanned leather or heavy wool felt. long before glass beads became available and still My first task was to wash the quills which are used today. They were colored with natural still had an oily coating. The quills are light and dyes and were embroidered, woven, wrapped and they float. I filled a large pot with luke warm strung. They were used to decorate clothing, water and detergent and put the quills in there to moccasins, belts, earrings, pouches and other soak. Periodically I would very gently stir them or accessones. rub them lightly with my fingers. You don't want Below is a sketch of a basic porcupine to bend or abuse them or they will rip on you quill who's natural color is white with a when you try to work with them. brownish-black tip. The black tipped end is the After about half an hour I felt they were "dangerous" end, sharp as a needle and with barbs clean enough. I used one of those large, flat on it to make them harder to withdraw. They are "splatter" screens, which I placed over the pot feather light, tend to fly everywhere and hide before carefully tilting it to drain the quills. I left easily, and are brittle when dry. Take care the quills on the screen and ran rinse water over handling them so that they don't get bent or them to wash off any remaining detergent. Watch broken and so you don't end up getting stabbed by out because the quills will try to get everywhere. I them when you least expect it because they let the quills dry out on the screen. managed to get lost in your house. They come in While the natural quill color is good for different widths and lengths and have a hard outer white, I wanted colors too. I decided to use basic shell with a soft center. Rit dye since I had some but I found that it took a For a reference book I used "Guide to long time to get the quills to absorb enough color. Indian Quillworking" by Christy Ann Hensler If you want to save yourself a bunch of time buy ($7.95) that I bought at Tandys, along with a 1/4 pre-dyed quills! oz box of undyed or washed quills ($7.95). I have The book said that the quills should not be since found that there are resources for buying left in boiling water as it makes them too brittle to washed as well as dyed quills, and for less money. work. I use a large, junk aluminum pot that I The best I have seen is Crazy Crow Trading Post picked up at a garage sale. I used about an inch of which has a wonderful catalogue of all sorts of water in the pot, heated it below the boiling point Native American supplies including quills for an stirred in about a teaspoon ofdye at a guess and 4 The Costumer's Quarterly - fall 199J turned off the heat. I then added a bunch ofquilis. as I flatten it, I poke a pin hole with a needle They floated, of course, so I would gently stir through the quill in the black tip section. Lay the them periodically. After a few hours some of the quill on a flat surface and using the bottom of a smaller quills had absorbed color but most were spoon bowl, gently flatten the quill starting at the either uncolored or lightly tinged. I left the pot white (hair folicle) end. The quill is now ready to over the pilot light area of my gas stove (so it be wrapped, woven or embroidered. would stay a little warm but not too hot). Two Quills become hard and brittle as the dry days later, after periodic stirring and even and they dry fairly quickly, a minute or less. You throwing in a bit more dye, the quills had finally can resoften them by sticking them back in the become dark enough for my purposes. I am not warm water (or holding them in your mouth if sure if the process works better if you keep the they are already attached). Experiment with a water heated to below the boiling point, but I few of the less useful quills to get a feel of this didn't want to let the quills get too brittle. technique before starting a real project. After the color was achieved I rinsed and Quills can also be strung and used rather drained the quills in the same manner as I did like long bugle beads. You have to clip off the washing them. Needless to say, it took a couple tips of either end and soaking them first might of weeks to get enough different colors for the make this easier, and then just run a needle project I wanted to do. through them as you would with a bugle bead. I don't want to rehash techniques that are Because they are fragile, you might want to use already well described, with illustrations, in the them on things that don't get a lot of abuse, like couple of books I have seen on quilling. If you eamngs. are serious about trying it, get one. What I was Quill work can be combined with other doing was flattening the quills, wrapping them techniques such as beading. I have only just around the leather strip and securing them with begun exploring the form so I am no expert. The thread which is well described in the Hensler books have a lot of nice examples. book. I am going to mostly discuss the handling I have been keeping the quills for the of the quills, which is applicable to most of the current project in one of those plastic, multi­ application techniques. segmented craft boxes. It is not ideal in that the For a particular project you should pick box holds static charges which in turn cause the quills that are about the same length and width to quills to wander around within the box a good keep the look the same. This is similar to deal. You need to keep the quills contained since choosing the same bead sizes. I tried to use quills the are very good at wandering and poking that were about I 1/4 " to I 1/2 ' which allowed through things. me to wrap them three times around the leather I hope I have provided some basic info strip. that will be useful to you. It is fairly easy to do, To soften quills in order to work them, not too expensive, and very transportable. soak a few at a time in a cup or bowl fuB of warm (100 to 150 degrees is fine), but not boiling water. Sources: Tandy Leather Traditionally Native Americans used to place the quills along the inside of their cheeks for about 10 Crazy Crow Trading Post secs which was moist and warm enough (98.6) to P.O. Box 314 soften them. However, this is very Denison, Texas 75020 DANGEROUS as they could cause serious, even (903) 463-1366 fatal, medical problems if swallowed. FAX NO. 903-463-7734 When the quill has been softened, it is ready for flattening. To let the air out of the quill Catalog $3.00 The Costumer's Quarterly - Fall 1993 5 The Creation ofAgalla or: From the Unpublished Novel by Betsy Marks by Betsy Marks Ok, so there's this book. Don't go looking three Daughters, and her Son. In the poem, on the shelves for it yet; I haven't given the first different aspects of nature are attributed to each full draft to my editor yet. Not that if really member of the celestial family. In "reality", The matters, since the whole story is in my head Mother (Agalla) is the planet, the daughters (Arra, anyway, including the background for the Asilla, and Aialla) are the three stars in the characters and their world.
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