Mont day 1 12 km/15 min Peyresourde Genos Pass Balnea Pe yresourde mountain pass louron Valley balnea

After passing through Luchon, you arrive at the Peyresourde mountain pass. Take some time to stop at the top. The pass is wide and the view stunning. Do not think twice and go into the little wooden house, the predictable snack bar. 1 crêpe: €0.50, 12 crêpes: €4.50 – take 12! The owner will lend you his collection of wooden Chinese puzzles while he prepares your crepes. But it is already time to leave. With the lake in your sights, charge down the mountain pass with villages scattered along the way. Each village hides precious treasures in the form of amazing Roman chapels with magnificent frescoes, painted to thank God for prosperous leather and wool transactions between this French valley and its Spanish neighbour after the discovery of the New World. Spared by several wars, these chapels are now classified masterpieces.Y ou can contemplate the village of Mont’s 1 fresco on your way down the mountain pass without changing your course. When you arrive at the village of Estarvielle, plunge down into the valley to the Genos-Loudenvielle lake 2 , where there are lovely walks along the banks. Do not forget to climb up to the Genos and ’s fortified watchtowers to take advantage of the panorama. Legend says that an underground path links the two. Opposite is a wall of mountain passes and peaks up to 3,000 m high, like a barrier created to preserve the tranquillity of this secretive valley. You can also contemplate it comfortably immerged up to your shoulders in Balnea spa centre 4 . At nightfall, the valley’s villages light up one by one like fairy lights and the lake is lit by their reflection.Y ou will want to stay…

48 We also recommend 1 Mont village and its Roman chapel, a classified Historic Monument A beautiful village of 41 inhabitants with an exceptional view. Its church is unique in having an outdoor fresco, depicting scenes of the Last Judgement, which bravely resists the ravages of time. Inside, the walls are also covered with admirable paintings. For €2.00 a recorded explanation tells all. 2 A walk around the Genos-Loudenvielle lake A short circular walk of maximum 1 hour with almost no slope which leaves from the Balnea car park. An alternative: leave from the Loudenvielle village square and climb up to the Moulor Tower and then back down to the lake. Yellow markings. Duration: 1 hour 30 minutes. 3 “Chez Rogé”, a traditional local bistro at Loudenvielle A village institution! It has been open non-stop since 1930 by “Lulu” Roger, then taken over by his daughter, Josette. You might also bump into Claire, the granddaughter and Laura and Flavie, the great – granddaughters. Everyone – holidaymakers and locals alike The highlight of the day – meet there for a drink, to play 4 Balnea on the banks “belote”, a traditional French card of the Genos-Loudenvielle lake game and sing Pyrenean songs. Since it was created in 2000 Balnea has continued to grow and is now number one in the French . favourite places With its international baths theme - 1 La “Table de Saoussas”, American Indian, Roman, Japanese Loudenvielle and Inca – the different well-being A friendly restaurant with a family areas and soothing thermal baths atmosphere serving local produce. take the young and the old on a Visit the lovely mil, on the other side journey around the world and of the road, in a charming and rustic accross time. The ultimate: the setting. outdoor lagoons of the Japanese and Inca baths, with temperatures 2 “Chez Lily”, Germ from 33°C to 40°C and a panoramic a new, unique address – singular view over the top of the valley. and delicious. An arty and cultural Nestled in the heart of one of the bistro in a former sheep shed, Lily’s Hautes-Pyrenees most beautiful sheep shed. Tapas is served for the natural settings, on the banks of the aperitif and the chef suggests dishes Genos-Loudenvielle lake, Balnea prepared with fresh, local market does not only look after your physical produce. and spiritual well-being. You will also be dazzled by the beauty of the Pyrenees.

49 D-929

Saint-Lary- Soulan Val Louron- 186 km/3 h 40 Pass day 2 Loudenvielle

spain val louron - azet mountain pass Ainsa Aragonese Spain saint-lary

The morning sun shines on the summit before arriving down in the valley. It is time to get started. From Genos, strike out on the hairpin bends of the Val Louron-Azet mountain pass. Concentrating on the road is difficult with such a magnificent view of the mountain peaks of more than 3,000 m serving as a border with Spain. On the summit the road crosses vast grazing meadows, one of the preferred take-off spots for hang-gliders and paragliders. Then descend towards the great Pyrenean valley, Saint-Lary which is directly accessible to Spain via the first cross-border tunnel, Aragnouet-Bielsa. Such an invitation is hard to resist, so once in , having passed by the original marble fountain with four drinking troughs, head for Spain! After a tunnel of only 3 km dug through the heart of the Pyrenees and you find yourself in a different world. Welcome to Aragonese Spain. Here everything is ochre and flooded with light by the force of the sun. Take the road towards Ainsa 9 , the capital of Sobrarbe, built on the headland around the ancient castle. But do not miss a few escapades, starting with Tella 7 village (at the junction 5km from Lafortunada), the valley’s former lookout from where you can behold one of the most beautiful Pyrenean panoramas in every direction: to the west, Ordesa and the Mont-Perdu, to the east, the Peña Montañesa and the Cinca valley. When you are back on the road, turn right again, just before Escalona village. This lovely circuit invites you on an adventure in the Añisclo canyon 8 , along the “rios” with its tempting natural pools, emerald in colour and heartily recommended for swimming. After your day in Spain, Saint-Lary is an ideal base camp for the night.

50 We also recommend 4 “La Grange”, Saint-Lary-Soulan Selected by the Michelin Guide and 5 The Cap de Long dam described as a “smart, cosy restaurant and the lakeside road with a resolutely mountain-dweller’s A monumental dam of more than atmosphere. Full of flavour and 100 m with 40 km of galleries which carefully prepared, the dishes are links it to the Pragneres hydraulic made with the finest regional produce: power station in the neighbouring trout tartare, locally raised lamb valley. The 2nd most important dam chops, prune custard flan…a great in the Pyrenees, it took seven years spot.” (from 1946 to 1953) and more than 6,000 workers to build this Autun Road, Saint-Lary-Soulan. extraordinary construction. This itinerary takes you along the road around the superb Oredon, Aumar and Aubert lakes. A must-see! On the road which goes to the tunnel, after passing through the small village of Fabian, take the D929 to the right. Pineta valley 6 Turn right just before Bielsa towards the secretive valley of Pineta. Follow the river until the giant Mont-Perdu – 3,355 m high – stops you. You have arrived at your destination. The Parador hotel provides a comfortable stopover in a grandiose decor. 9 Mayor square in Ainsa A cobbled square surrounded by arcades and flowering balconies The highlight of the day situated in the medieval upper town, 8 The Añisclo canyon built on the headland where it is in the Ordesa National Park protected by a fortress. The view is and Mont-Perdu superb and the setting charming. Less famous than the Ordesa 40km from the tunnel exit. canyon, the Añisclo canyon is more preserved. Just before Escalona, turn 10 Ainsa lake right into the road which climbs A magnificent, turquoise lake the gorges of the Añisclo canyon accessible to bathers by many dirt towards Fanlo. The road penetrates tracks. A solitary church tower – the canyon – it is narrow but there is the last remnant of the engulfed no danger as it is only one-way. After village – stands out of the water about 10km a car park at a hair in the middle of the lake. pin bend is the starting point for a A startling scene. lovely walk which takes you (in less than 30 minutes) to La Ermita de San Urbez (named after one of Haut favourite places Aragon’s most iconic saints) nestled in a hollow of the cliff. Take the road 3 “Bodegas del Sobrarbe”, Ainsa to the next junction and turn left On the ground floor of an old towards Buerba. Stop for a minute fortified house, the restaurant serves on the mountain pass – the view of local dishes. One of the favourites the Añisclo canyon’s fault and over is the Sobrarbe mutton shoulder, Mont-Perdu is breathtaking. Now cooked in the wood stove and served take the road and finish the circuit with “patatas a lo pobre” at Puyarruego where you can swim (potatoes and peppers). in the rio’s natural pools. To return 2, place Mayor, Ainsa. to Escalona, take the main road.

51 Bagneres- de- 60 km/1 h 15 Aspin day 3 Pass

Payolle Lake AS PIN mountain pass

Saint-Lary-Soulan bagneres-de-bigorre aquensis

Another day of surprises as our adventure continues… From Saint-Lary, take the RD929 towards Arreau and make a first stop to visit the covered market, castle, churches and half-timbered houses with corbel arches. On leaving Arreau talk the first left on the road to the Aspin mountain pass 11 , regularly taken by the Tour de . The road rises gently but above the village of Aspin-Aure, the bends in the road get tighter and tighter until you reach the top of the pass (1,489m). Park at the top to admire the panorama over the Pic du Midi and Arreau. The winding road descends amongst the majestic pines giving it a backdrop of greenery. At the foot there are the old Payolle mines of pink marble used at Versailles. Several metres further, take time to relax by the Payolle lake 12 which lies in the hollow of the pine forest. You will almost certainly bump into a family of cows at a bend in the road – it is a special place to contemplate rural life. Continue along the road to Campan. In this village you will see the “Mounagues”, strange man-sized rag dolls, often dressed in local costume, on balconies and in the streets. Take the road towards Bagneres-de-Bigorre, your final destination for today. But first we suggest a little escapade in a truly natural sanctuary in the mysterious valley of Lesponne 14 , just a few metres before Beaudean on the left. A last detour for the day: at Gerde, at the entrance to Bagneres, follow the D84 for 3-4km to the Palomieres pass, where you enter the mysterious hilly land of the Baronnies and a superb belvedere. It is now time to end the day with a warm, soothing bath at the Aquensis 17 thermal spa®. In a wooded setting, there is a hammam to carry you away to the orient and open air hot tubs with a view over the mountains… Tomorrow, before you leave, take the time to wander around the old town and do some shopping in the covered market.

52 We also recommend favourite places 13 “Les petits fruits” 5 The Trois Pics inn shop, Campan “Chez Germaine”, Payolle In jam, jelly or sauces, crystallized, A typical mountain inn: no fuss for an aperitif, in liqueur or cream and famous for meat grilled on - about forty varieties of fruits are beech embers, “garbure” soup and available for tasting by the greedy blueberry tart. and the gourmet. The workshop visit is free and tasting a must. 6 The “hunter’s refuge” on the Palomieres pass, Gerde 14 Traditional grocery and cafe A tip: come very hungry because “Chez Gabrielle”, Lesponne “chez Loulou” quality and quantity The former grocery is no longer are no laughing matter. operational but it has remained A traditional mountain inn. unchanged and is open for visits. 7 Le “Jardin des Brouches”, Now converted into holiday Bagneres-de-Bigorre accommodation, the ancestral Local produce, well-balanced establishment is well-known to flavours, attentive service… hikers who come to taste cider, tea, this restaurant can be proud hot chocolate, crêpes and blueberry of its Gault & Millau “toque”. tart after a walk in the mountains. On the road from Campan, turn left just before Beaudean. 15 Live my life as a shepherd With Yan and Cédric, Pyrenean shepherds. Discover the sheep sheds, feeding time and caring for the lambs and take the flock out to their summer mountain pastures… an encounter to remember. Vie d’Estive, Beaudean – +336 42 99 85 44. 16 A walking track in the “ d’” A fascinating walk through vegetation which is both luxurious and absurd - gigantic trees covered with lichen and moss - astonishing plants. You are in the Gourgue The highlight of the day d’Asque, also known as “the little Amazon”. 11 The Aspin mountain pass Wilder, less visited and at a lower An easy walk. Time: 1 hour 15 minutes. altitude than its neighbours, the Take the road towards Asque from the Aspin pass has a delightful itinerary Palomières pass. The starting point of the walk with what is probably the widest is 5km from the village going towards Bulan. panorama. Its summit - free from 17 Aquensis, thermal spa® any construction and dedicated The sky blue façade of the to cow and horse pastures - is townhouse is the sign you have classified. Enjoy a superb view over arrived at the Aquensis thermal the Pic du Midi, the Arbizon and the spa®, an architectural treasure. Aure valley. There are lovely walks Baths and lagoons bubble under along the ridges of the pass with its a majestic cathedral-style wooden gentle landscape. Starting from the framework. On the first floor, an car park, there is a panoramic walk outstanding hammam and the 19th from Pla del Naou which follows a century lounges provide an elegant ridge towards the south where you environment for massages and other can gaze at the Aure and Campan body wraps. valleys. To the north, the walking paths lead to the Beyrede pass or to Road of Pont d’Arras, Bagneres-de-Bigorre. Signal de Bassia.

53 Pic du Midi day 4 40 km/56 min Bareges Tourmalet Pass pic du midi T ourmalet mountain pass bareges

Morning of the 4th day. The sun has begun to rise. The order is simple: follow it. On the road to the Tourmalet mountain pass you will meet cows and sheep running in total freedom as you pass through Sainte-Marie de Campan. Today, you are their guests; and sometimes even their warm welcome in the middle of the road can be surprising. They love having their photo taken. At 18 level, climb into the Pic du Midi 19 cable-car – like a fairground ride, this is your first visit to a castle in the sky. Its inhabitants call it the observatory. Indeed, a handful of scientists use it to observe the sun and the galaxy. Here the landscape looks down at you haughtily, as does the lunch at the Pyrenees highest restaurant. The opportunity for your fork to peak at 2,877 m…plus a few centimetres. The spectacle and the silence resonate around you. A panoramic vision of the planet with your nose in the stars - I bet your gaping mouth will have only one word to say: Wow! And it is not over! 4 km on from the cable-car station you reach the extremely famous Tourmalet mountain pass, well-known internationally. Its name flaps like a banner in the wind of a storm announcing its arrival to the cyclists. At 2,115 m high, it is the highest pass with road access in the Pyrenees. Finally, at the end of the day, plunge into a thermal bath at Cieléo 22 at Bareges before spending a delicious evening “Chez Louisette” 9 . Your “over the top” day concludes in the highest thermal centre in the Pyrenees. Good night and see you tomorrow, as soon as your eyes open.

54 We also recommend perception of flavours changes with altitude, only cooking with electricity 20 A selfie with Octave the Giant is possible... In such particular Known as Octave - a tribute to conditions, my team accomplishes , the first cyclist to exploits daily and proposes original cross the Tourmalet pass in 1910 and extravagant dishes with - this 3-metre sculpture of a cyclist the finest produce, including for dancing on his pedals is one of the snacking service.” 9 elements of the “Tour de France sculpture” on the A64 motorway 9 The Lienz inn “Chez Louisette” service area, at the entrance to the One Gault & Millau toque: “A rustic Hautes-Pyrenees department. At setting of great beauty - le Pic du the end of autumn, the Giant goes Midi is right next to you at the table. down into the valley for winter. Nobody else reveres local produce And he is accompanied by a festive quite like Louise Corret. Many hikers cycling outing for his ascension to stop here to replenish themselves the summit during the first weekend with a “garbure” soup or pigs’ feet.” of June. The forest road from Lienz. 2.5 km from 21 La Laquette cable-car Bareges take the road to the Tourmalet pass. With the cable-car it is possible to access a beautiful mountain pasture with a forest and a stunning panorama over the Pays Toy valley and le Pic du Midi, at the doorway The highlight of the day to the Néouvielle Natural Park. 19 Pic and the cable-car Tournaboup car park on the Barege side The cable-car leaves from La of the descent of the Tourmalet pass. Mongie (1,800 m) and reaches le Pic (2,877 m) – simple and effortlessly. 23 La “Ferme Saint-Justin The cabins have a capacity of Crêperie”, Sers 45 people and take you on a fast This open air crêperie, situated on and magnificent trip across the the headland, is worth the trip! Sit mountains. The Observatory perched on the terrace, like a balcony over high on the mountain, was reserved the valley, and have a delicious for many years to technicians and crêpe. The owners, Jean-Louis scientists, nowadays it welcomes and Gwénaelle, share stories and more than 100,000 vistors. Up there recommendations of things to see. you can gaze at 300km of summits from the vast panoramic terraces At the place called Saint-Justin. Accessible built on this site which is classified from the village of Sers (2.5 km from Barege for the beauty of its landscapes. going down the pass). Follow the rural When the weather is sunny you “Boussie” track for 500 metres. Park your car can see the first foothills of the and follow the path by foot for 700 m on a Massif Central to the north! Le Pic track which is not accessible to cars. du Midi also welcomes visitors in the evening or during the night to 22 Swimming at Cieléo, Barèges observe the stars. Thanks to the The pleasure of water rhymes with purity of the air and the rare stable pleasure for the eyes in a swimming atmosphere at an altitude of 2,877 pool under a starry vault and heated metres, the night sky seen from le to 34°, with hydromassage pools, Pic du Midi is exceptional. Thanks bubbling benches and geysers. to this particular quality, it has been Upstairs, showers and a hammam classified an International Dark kyS alongside an enormous hot tub bath Reserve. in light from the overhead glass dome. The cable car leaves every 15 minutes Departures: from 9 am to 4.30 pm favourite places (From 01/07 to 31/08) / from 9.30 am to 4 pm (From 01/09 to 01/11) 8 Lunch at the Pic du Midi Last return at: 7 pm (From 01/07 to 31/08) Marc Berger, the Chef: “cooking / 5.30 pm (From 01/09 to 01/11) at high altitude presents real difficulties: the water boils at 92°C, www.picdumidi.com the air dries produce quickly, the

55 Bareges

Gedre

Heas 70 km/1 h 50 Gavarnie day 5 The Tentes Troumouse Pass The Gavarnie Estaube Cirque GAVA RNIE Mont-Perdu TROUMOUSE spain ESTAUBe

Today is circus, or rather “cirque” day! You have your ticket in hand to meet an international and geological celebrity: the Gavarnie cirque 25 . 40 minutes by car from Bareges, enter the Pyrenees National Park, go through the village of Gedre and you have arrived. First there is the village - lively and charming. Suddenly at the end of the road, it appears. That is when the shivering starts and superlatives are insufficient. A master of words, Victor Hugo described it as: «nature’s coliseum». After a 30 minute easy and fascinating walk, along the Gave du Pau and across the Courade plateau, you arrive at the cirque’s orientation table, possible by foot, horse-back or donkey. Push on a bit further and you arrive at the Hostellerie du cirque. There you have a clear view of France’s biggest waterfall. How about visiting Troumouse or Estaubé? Leave Gavarnie and follow the D921 towards Gèdre. Just before the village, take the D922 to the right, towards “Cirque de Troumouse” in the Heas valley. The road leads you directly to the Troumouse cirque 30 . And once there - stupefaction! Troumouse is extraordinary, the Goliath of cirques, even vaster than Gavarnie. Raymond de Carbonnières, the illustrious, 18th century explorer estimated that it could hold 10 million men! Another curiosty: the plain which stretches from it is strangely flat. A prairie marmot paradise! After the popular Gavarnie and the immense Troumouse, it is time to visit the solitary Estaube. Descend Troumouse and after Heas, take the road to Gloriettes lake. After a short hour’s walk, you arrive at Estaube cirque 31 - a land of stone and lichen - another planet, almost lunar. It is the end of an emotional day. The vision of the cirques moved you deeply. Absolute masterpieces by nature - they do not seem real. But the experience of such immense beauty will remove your doubts and fill you will plenitude.

56 We also recommend favourite places 24 The Gavarnie cemetery 10 “L’Auberge de la Munia”, Héas Impossible not to be moved by the An exceptional setting at the foot of tombs of the great Pyreneans buried the Notre-Dame d’Heas chapel. here… Laurent and Hippolyte On the menu: winkle “garbure” soup, Passet, two brothers, as well as mutton stew, blueberry their sons, Henri and particularly batter pudding... Célestin, born in 1845. He is the Pyrenees’ greatest hero. Over more 11 “L’Hostellerie du cirque” than thirty years he performed (the cirque inn) many firsts, until his triumph on One hour walk from the village 7th August 1889, when he carved of Gavarnie, but it is worth it! 1,300 steps in the ice to cross the The view of the waterfall is fantastic formidable Gaube corridor, a feat from the terrace. only repeated forty-four years later. The dishes from buffet and the menu are very good and reasonably priced. Beside the church. 12 Hôtel-Restaurant 26 The discovery pathway between “La Brèche de Roland” the Tentes and Boucharo passes Situated in one of Gèdre’s oldest An easy walk on an almost flat homes which has been elegantly panoromic path. The view over the restored. Odile and Philippe 3,000 peaks which surround the are like their beautiful house Gavarnie cirque is staggering. The – warm and joyful. Epicurean 1km discovery path has signs which cuisine in a sophisticated setting. explain the site’s amazing geology, history and legends. Leave Gavarnie,turn left before the bridge towards Gavarnie ski resort - Les Especieres and go on to the Tentes pass (approx.10 km). 27 The panorama from “le Pic des Tentes” From the Tentes pass a path leads to the Pic des Tentes - a rounded and grassy summit. It takes about 20 minutes. A very beautiful panorama over the surrounding summits, the Marboré, the Taillon, part of the Breche de Roland, the Vignemale massif and even the Pic du Midi. 28 La Brèche de Roland A 2 hour walk with sturdy shoes from the Boucharo pass and you arrive at the Breche de Roland refuge (refuge des Sarradets). It takes another hour to reach the The highlight of the day Breche but the view from the 25 The Gavarnie cirque refuge is spectacular. Gavarnie is a glacier cirque of 29 Notre Dame des Neiges rare perfection and impressive A short, barely 20 min walk to reach beauty. 5.5 km wide with vertical Notre Dame des Neiges where there walls 1,500 m high and hundreds is a beautiful view over the village of waterfalls, it is unique in of Gavarnie and its cirque as well the world. Leaning against the as the Vignemale massif and the Spanish Haut-Aragon grand famous Ossou glacier, the most canyons, together they form the important in the Pyrenees. “Gavarnie Mont-Perdu” site, a sacred mountain on Unesco’s Leave Gavarnie, turn left before the bridge World Heritage Site list. towards Gavarnie ski resort - Les Especieres and go on to the Holle car park (1.5 km after www.gavarnie.com the village of Gavarnie).

57 Argeles- 42 km/1 h Pierrefitte-Nestalas Luz-Saint- day 6 Sauveur Pont d’Espagne Luz-Saint-Sauveu,r Gavarnie-Gedre C auterets-Pont d Espagne Pyrenees National Park

Still in a daze from the spectacle of the previous evening, maybe it is time to seek out other types of emotion. We are heading for Cauterets-Pont d’Espagne, an enchanted garden in the Pyrenees. But first we will stop a while at Luz-Saint-Sauveur. At the entry point to the village is Pont Napoleon which was constructed in 1860 under the orders of Napoleon III, who was taking the waters in Luz-Saint-Sauveur with the Empress Eugenie. The bridge crosses the deep gorge of the Gave and today is a famous bungee jumping venue. As for the marble baths used by Eugenie, the waters are still flowing at the Luzea Spa Centre. We now continue to Cauterets 32 . In years gone by this small mountain town welcomed Chateaubriand, Victor Hugo, Beaudelaire, Debussy… the cream of high society came to cultivate their romantic aspirations in Cauterets. Follow in their footsteps along the Boulevard Latapie Flurin where sculptures and monumental porches succeed one another. Now it is up to Pont d’Espagne 34 , the highlight of the day, the road is a spectacle in itself. Once arrived at the Puntas parking it is a treat for the eyes, you are about to enter the site Cauterets - Pont d’Espagne, one of the most visited sites in the Pyrenees National Park. Every little corner here has life bursting out. The centenary old Pins a Crochet (mountain pines) even grow out of the rocks, the many torrents and streams provide a constant acoustic sound track, frogs are calling, marmots gambol in the sun, the hardy isards look down on you from high, the bouquetins are forever quarrelling, the lawns are covered in alpine flowers... the pure mountain air has aromas of pine resin and thyme. Such a place makes you feel so good to be alive, a beautiful harmonious natural paradise. Yet there is more! Higher on is the splendid Gaube lake in a beautiful valley beneath the towering Vignemale, the highest summit in the French Pyrenees. The immense mountain with its glacier is reflected magically in the turquoise waters of the lake. After such a lovely day where better to finish than in the soothing warm waters of the Bains du Rocher 32 spa centre back in Cauterets itself.

58 We also recommend 32 Berlingots At the beginning of the 19th century 32 The station the doctors advised those coming An astonishing building, constructed to take the waters to suck a boilded completely in wood, which is located at sweet to overcome the smell of the entrance to the town. It is actually sulphur. So the berlingot was the old Norwegian pavilion from the invented! Four shops in Cauterets Great Exhibition of Paris of 1889. continue the tradition of making these sweets to this day. 32 The Pyrenees National Park Centre For the very best understanding of favourite places the site visit the Pyrenees National 13 L’Hôtellerie du Lac de Gaube Park Centre. It has information on Located on the edge of this legendary the countryside, the wildlife, bats lake of the Pyrenees, in a grandiose and of course the ever present water. setting, you can savour trout and There are touch screen displays for other local produce. the many walking routes. 14 The “Abri du Benques” in Cauterets. Station square. A pleasure for both the taste buds and the eyes. A vast choice of 33 The view over the Lutour exquisitely elaborated dishes, with and Cerisey waterfalls delicious hors d’oeuvres served on On the road which leads to Pont a slate tile whilst you are waiting. d’Espagne stop at the place called Selected by the Michelin guide. La Raillere, the Lutour waterfall is signposted. A very short climb leads Cauterets - at the place called «La Raillere». to a walkway, the waterfall is now oposite you in the forest. Continue along the trail another sign indicates the Cerisey falls, visible from the road. At the place called «La Raillere», 2,5 km after Cauterets. 32 A soothing pause at the Bains du Rocher Spa Centre A decor of lustrous lights, damask curtains, jade flooring, pebbled walls, mosaics and glass beads... the exterior lagoon with its bubbling waters is so inviting, relax a while in The highLight of the day the waters at 38C. 34 Pont d’Espagne 35 The Cirque du Lys At the very heart of the Pyrenees The Cauterets ski area has an enviable National Park Cauterets-Pont reputation for superb snow conditions d’Espagne is a veritable garden of but it is also open in July and August Eden, one of the jewels of the Pyrenees. for walkers and mountain bikers. Lifts, cable-cars and way-marked From the village, by cable-car and trails provide dozens of easy walking chairlift, you can reach the Lys ridge options so one can enjoy the very best at 2400 meters, from where there is a the site has to offer without any great magnificent view over some of the most effort. We suggest you take the Puntas famous peaks in the Pyreneees; the Pic cable-car then the Lac de Gaube du Midi, the Vignemale, the Pic du chairlift to reach Lac de Gaube, just 15 Midi d’Ossau and the Balaïtous. minutes of easy walking is needed. You can always walk back down. Whether 32 A gourmet pause at the Refuge on foot or on the lifts you can access des Sens, chocolate maker and tea the Pont d’Espagne itself, a pretty pink rooms. stone bridge which crosses a deep Here the hardest thing is choosing; gorge with a spectacular waterfall. chocolate viennois, tarte tatin, a superb range of pastries, crepes, Puntas parking. 7km from Cauterets. cream from the farm... www.cauterets.com 7, rue Richelieu-Galarie des Princes in Cauterets.

59 Pic du Jer 29 km/37 min N-21 day 7 Argeles-Gazost

Saint-Savin SAINT -savin lourdes Cauterets pic du jer

As we near the end of our trip we invite you today to experience something very personal and very unusual. We are heading to Lourdes. It is a cosmopolitan and welcoming town, offering the light of hope to many, the town has a particular atmosphere that you will not find elsewhere. It is a place of prayer, a great meeting point, where emotions are not hidden and posseses a unique beauty, you will be made welcome no matter your origins or your beliefs. But we have plenty of time, our first stop today will please all food lovers. We are taking you for lunch at the famous restaurant of Jean-Pierre and Alexis Saint-Martin, the 15 in Saint-Savin, a picturesque small village perched high on a rocky outcrop. After this delicious lunch we will now head for Lourdes 37 . Each year millions of visitors come to this small town, where in 1858, a young girl called Bernadette saw visions of the Virgin Mary, in caves on the river banks. It was around these caves that the sanctuaries of Our Lady of Lourdes were constructed. Follow the Boulevard de la Grotte to enter the site by the Saint Michel gates which offer the best view. Start the visit to the three superb basilicas, then continue to the Massabielle Grotto, the beating heart of Lourdes. You will see the crowds eager to touch the rocks, nowadays worn smooth by the passage of so many pilgrims, who will then pray in front of the spring that Bernadette discovered, it is a symbol of purification. The pilgrims will then move on to the water fountains and the pools before lighting a candle, which will prolong their prayers long after departure. In Lourdes everything is symbolic; the light of the candles, the water from the spring. Sit yourselves down on the river banks to rest and contemplate the scene. To come here is to escape the daily routine, to make a journey within a journey. A spiritual retreat to gather strength, a return to one’s spiritual origins, or to seeing the light for a new start in life, a visit to Lourdes provides that spark... Before finishing this journey a mention must be given to the torchlight processions 37, take the time to discover the Lourdes’ Castle 37 and take a ride on the Pic du Jer 36 funicular railway.

60 monument, it dominates the town. We also recommend Originally a mediaeval fortress it 38 Relaxation at the now houses a Pyrenean museum. Lourdes lake The view is remarkable over the town Located just a few minutes from the of Lourdes, the Pyrenees and the centre of Lourdes is a huge glaciated sanctuaries. At the museum you can lake in a magnificent natural discover the history of the Pyrenean setting, it is a lovely place to relax valleys. but also has many open-air activities on offer - walking trails, mountain- favourite places biking, fishing, pedalos and a superb 18 hole golf course. It is the perfect 15 “The Viscos” in Saint Savin. spot for a picnic. The gastronomic restaurant of the Hautes Pyrenees. It has two ‘toques’ Located as you leave Lourdes on the Pau road. in the Gault & Millau guide and is a local institution. 37 The sanctuaries 16 “The Alexandra” in Lourdes Basilicas of Lourdes Its facade has a fascinating artistic The Basilica of the Immaculate tableau of casseroles and other Conception, known as the upper kitchen utensils. It is very popular basilica, it was constructed with the locals for its creative cuisine. around the crypt and was the first chapel built above the Grotto des 3, rue du Fort. Apparitions. 16 “The Magret” in Lourdes The Basilica of the Rosary, in the Equally popular with the locals who interior area it has superb Venetian appreciate its seasonal cooking, all mosaics by G.D. Facchina, the prepared using the best quality local undisputed master of the 19th produce. century, he notably also decorated the Opera Garnier in Paris and 10, rue des 4 Frères Soulas. the Our Lady of Sion church in Jerusalem. 16 “The Da Marco Pizzeria” in Lourdes The Basilica of Pius 10th built It has a rustic and cosy ambience, a beneath the esplanade in 1958 for large choice of colourful flavoursome the 100th anniversary of the visions. pizzas, and a good choice of desserts. It is considered as one of the biggest sanctuaries in the world and can 45, rue de la Grotte. hold 20 000 pilgrims. The sanctuaries are located in the lower town on the river banks, it is best to use a public car The highLight of the day park and continue to them on foot. 37 The torchlight procession 36 The Pic du Jer funicular railway Each evening, thousands of pilgrims The Pic du Jer offers a magnificent meet to walk in procession with flaming viewpoint over Lourdes, , torches, from the Grotto to the esplanade Pau, the Argeles Gazost valley and of the Our Lady of the Rosary basilica. the summits of the Pyrenees. After The atmosphere is joyful, a great energy visiting the caves a waymarked trail can be felt. Whether as a participant or then leads to an observation point a simple spectator you will be moved by with a charming small restaurant this magical scene, which unites men with a panoramic terrace. It is also and women from all origins and beliefs, the starting point for a lovely walk you will be entranced by the beauty of along a botanical circuit with box, a thousand torches illuminating the hawthorn and hazelnut trees. sanctuaries. Located at the entry of lourdes (59, av. Every day from April to October, from 9pm Francis-Lagardère). (duration 90 minutes), you can get torches in the town or at the Sanctuaries. 37 The Lourdes’ Castle and the Pyrenean Museum Constructed on a rocky outcrop, www.lourdes-infotourisme.com the castle is a classified historical

61 Lourdes Argeles-Gazost 32 km/40 min Arcizans-Dessus D-918 day 8

Aucun Soulor Arrens-Marsous aRgelès-gazost Pass , val d azun soulor Mountain pass

Today is the day of departure so a gentle programme for a great finish, following the routes of the classic Pyrenean cols. From Lourdes take the RN21 and follow the Gaves valley to Argeles-Gazost. At the entrance to the town is the Pyrenees Animal Park 39 , over a two hour walk on the hillsides one can observe otters, isard, bears, mouflons, marmots, wolves and other animals living in semi-liberty. Now continue into the centre of Argeles-Gazost. The higher town is a collection of flower bedecked streets, panoramic terraces, stairways and fountains. The spa baths are located in the thermal quarter, on the edge of a verdant park 40 , surrounded by bourgeois mansions and next to the Argeles casino. When it is time to leave take the RD918 towards Val d’Azun, this is a lovely valley dotted with a dozen pretty mountain villages, charcteristally Pyrenean with their slate roofs and stone walls. The pastoral traditions are still alive and the local cheeses are famous. In the village of you must visit the Mountain Museum which is located in a collection of 16th century buildings. The visit will lead you through many centuries telling the story of a society turned towards life in the mountains. There are some unique objects including a perfectly preserved forge, it is unique in France and is worth the visit on its own. Then head up towards the Soulor mountain pass 41 , at you reach the top at 1474 meters the panorama opens out to 360 degrees. In front of you is the Balaïtous. So now the holiday is over, but we know you will come back sooner than later.

62 We also recommend  39 The Pyrenees animal park The Pyrenees animal park ofers the visitor another way of observing nature. In a green and rocky environment you can intimately share the lives of the animals. The great carnivores, bears, wolves and lynk accompany smaller ones, martins, weasels and ferrets, there are also mountain species including vultures, deer and isard. A selfie with the cheeky marmots is a must! At the entrance to Argeles-Gazost on the D821. 40 The thermal park The highlight of the day of Argeles Gazost 41 A superb place for a stroll, not to be The Soulor mountain pass missed, perfect for a little meditation A superb view point over the Pyrenees and relaxation. The large garden from 1474 meters of altitude. As far as of 5 hectares is in the English style the eye can see are mountain pastures and was designed in the 19th century. with grazing cows, sheep and horses. It possesses many rare botanical Lift your eyes to the sky as it is also a specimens, a cooling stream runs famous point from which to observe through the middle, the flower beds the many eagles and vultures present are ever changing in colour as the in the Pyrenees. The Soulor mountain seasons themselves change. There is pass also has the only cave in the a great play area for children. Hautes-Pyrenees where cheeses are matured, the master of the place is Jojo who has 3000 cheeses to look after from favourite places the cheesemakers of the Arbeost valley 17 “The Arrieulat” and the Bearn region. in Argeles Gazost An obligatory stop! you will adore the chef’s cuisine using fresh local 18 “The Marmottes” produce. The kitchen is open on to at the Soulor mountain pass the restaurant, so you can watch In this mountain restaurant the local as the chef works at his station Bigorre menu rules; garbure, producing his delicious dishes. grilled lamb, confit de canard. Bar, open fire with a terrace over- 28, avenue des Pyrenees Argeles-Gazost. looking at the Soulor mountain pass.

and the road continues online...

www.pyrenees-trip.uk www.pyrenees-holiday.com

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DAY 2 in 5 Days From Saint-Lary to Gavarnie: passing through the Aspin and Tourmalet mountain passes and of course, climbing the Pic du Midi. Saint-Lary-Soulan col d’Aspin Pic du Midi (La Mongie) : 50,3 km/1 h. Pic du Midi (La Mongie) Gavarnie : 42 km/1 h 02.

We also recommend A walk around the Payolle lake with pine forests and the Pic du Midi in the background. Bathing at Cieléo in Bareges where you DAY 1 are guaranteed a dazzling spectacle from the foot of the Pic du Midi. Arrival via the Peyresourde mountain La Ferme “Saint-Justin Crêperie” pass, from Saint-Lary, passing through in Sers. Built on the headland, the the town of Loudenvielle (the Louron terrace overlooks the valley. valley) past the Balnea spa centre, then the Val Louron-Azet pass. favourite places Lunch at the Pic du Midi restaurant Loudenvielle: where original dishes featuring local 11 km/17 min. produce are served at an altitude of Loudenvielle col de Val Louron-Azet almost 3,000 metres. Saint-Lary-Soulan: 20,5 km/38 min. Dinner at the Hotel-Restaurant “La Brèche de Roland” in Gedre: a family We also recommend atmosphere and delicious cuisine. The village of Mont and its roman chapel which is a classified historic The highlight of the day monument with indoor and outdoor frescoes. The Pic du Midi cable-car: leave from La Mongie, a 15 minute trip to Talk a 1 hour circular, almost flat the summit at an altitude of 2,877 m walk around the Génos-Loudenvielle and 600m² of terrace for a stunning lake. panorama. “Chez Rogé”, a traditional local The night at Gavarnie. bistro at Loudenvielle. A family business where locals and holidaymakers meet. DAY 3 favourite places Discover the Gavarnie cirque and then La “Table de Saoussas”, Loudenvielle. head for Cauterets. Dishes featuring local produce. Gavarnie Cauterets : 41 km/1 h 02. Dinner at “La Grange” at Saint-Lary. Flavoursome cuisine which reveres local products. We also recommend A chic and cosy setting. Walk with the donkeys from the village of Gavarnie to “the Cirque inn” at the foot of walls. The highlight of the day The Troumouse cirque and its vast Balnea spa centre on the banks of the plain (12 km) with streams, sheep Génos-Loudenvielle lake. and prairie marmots is accessible by The night at Saint-Lary-Soulan. car and can be visited on foot.

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Walk towards Spain on the Tentes favourite places mountain pass discovery path. It takes you to Boucharo mountain pass, “L’Hôtellerie du Lac de Gaube”: a traditional pathway towards the accessible by cable-car and chairlift, south. on the banks of the lake, facing the Vignemale massif. Walk to “Notre Dame des Neiges” for a lovely view of the village and the “ The Magret” in Lourdes: cirque as a backdrop. seasonal cooking, all prepared using the best quality local produce. A relaxing stop at the “Bains du Rocher” spa at Cauterets. Let “ L’Alexandra” in Lourdes: yourself be transported from interior tasty cuisine in a cosy setting. to exterior by thermal waters. The “Da Marco” pizzeria in Lourdes: an genuine institution in the rue de favourite places la Grotte. Lunch at “the Cirque inn” in Gavarnie: opposite the giant The highlight of the day waterfall in the heart of the cirque. Le Pont d’Espagne in the heart of the Diner at “l’Abri du Benquès” in Pyrenees National Park - a garden of Cauterets: at the foot of the Lutour Eden and easily accessible waterfall, a sophisticated setting The torchlight procession at Lourdes with inventive gastronomic cuisine. every evening at 9.00 pm. Each with a torchlight in hand, pilgrims and The highlight of the day visitors congregate to march together under the Virgin’s protection. A rare The Gavarnie Cirque with the Mont and intense moment - not be missed! Perdu massif which is classified among the Unesco World Heritage The night at Lourdes. Sites. An outstanding natural site which is easy to access and can be visited by foot. DAY 5 The night at Cauterets. Leave via the Soulor and Aubisque mountain passes and go through the Val d’Azun. DAY 4 Lourdes col du Soulor : 32km / 42 min. Visit the Cauterets-Pont d’Espagne site, then head on to Lourdes via Argeles-Gazost. We also recommend Cauterets Pont d’Espagne: 7 km/20 min. A peaceful walk searching for Pont d’Espagne Lourdes: 38,6 km/48 min. squirrels in the thermes park at Argeles-Gazost. We also recommend The Pyrenees animal park at Visiting one of the sweet shops where Argeles-Gazost where you will meet boiled sweets are made (Cauterets). prairie marmots, izards, bears, otters and more... The Sanctuaries of Lourdes and their special atmosphere. The emotion and fraternity are tangible. favourite places « L’Arrieulat» in Argeles-Gazost: The “Pic du Jer” at Lourdes: modern and creative south-western go up in the funicular railway with its regional cuisine. magnificent panorama over Lourdes and the surrounding valleys. « La Marmotte» at Soulor mountain pass: enjoy local dishes and delicious The Lourdes’ castle and its Pyrenees crêpes on the terrace with a view of museum which portrays life in days the pass. gone by. Walk around the Lourdes lake o get The highlight of the day away from it all. An easy walk - time The Soulor and Aubisque mountain 1 hour. passes - Tour de France legends.

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The Cirque de Gavarnie, impressively beautiful, classed as in 3 days a Unesco’s world heritage Site. A two hour round trip, to be done by foot, DAY 1 donkey or horseback, allowing you to join the Cirque’s hotel at the foot of the great walls. Arrival day and a gentle, easy going programme. Heading towards favourite places Loudenvielle, in the pleasant Louron Lunch at the Pic du Midi restaurant. valley. Take a moment to relax in Balnea, Dinner at the ‘La Breche de Roland’ a spa centre nestled in one of the most Hotel-Restaurant in Gedre. beautiful settings of the Pyrenees on Night in Gavarnie. the banks of the Genos-Loudenvielle Saint-Lary-Soulan Aspin Pass lake. A short car journey taking the La Mongie (Pic du Midi): 50,3km/1h. Val Louron-Azet Pass will lead you to La Mongie (Pic du Midi) Tourmalet Pass Saint-Lary to spend the night there, in Gavarnie: 42 km/1h02. the Pyrenees’ most beautiful hotel. Enjoy every moment! DAY 3 Walk around the Genos-Loudenvielle Leave Gavarnie. We suggest that you Lake. A one hour round trip, without inclines. go to Cauterets and the incredible Pont Balnea, the balneotherapy centre d’Espagne, in the heart of the Pyrenees Allow two hours. National Park. You will have lunch on site, «Chez Rogé,» a local bistro in Loudenvielle. at the Gaube lakeside by the turquoise waters that reflect the Vignemale, lord favourite places of mountains and highest summit in Lunch at ‘La Table de Souassas’ in the Pyrenees. After lunch, we will lead Loudenvielle. you to Lourdes to discover the famous Dinner at ‘La Grange’ in Saint-Lary. sanctuaries by the river before the Night at Saint-Lary-Soulan. fascinating candlelight procession. A magical day! Loudenvielle Val Louron-Azet Pass Saint-Lary-Soulan: 20,5 km/38 min. The Pont d’Espagne, a veritable garden of Eden. The site is easy to visit thanks to the gondola from DAY 2 Puntas and ski lift from Gaube. Parking of Puntas, 7km after Cauterets. Leave Saint-Lary. On the programme The Lourdes Sanctuaries and today: two legendary passes from the the very unique atmosphere. Tour de France, Aspin and Tourmalet, the The emotion and energy cable car from the Pic du Midi that goes are palpable. The Candlelight Procession in close to 3,000 metres high, to take in a Lourdes, every evening at 21:00. unique panoramic view and the Cirque A moment of a rare intensity that de Gavarnie, classed as a Unesco World is worth experiencing! Heritage Site. A spectacular day! We Duration: 90 minutes. recommend that you arrive at the Pic du favourite places Midi in the morning to eat lunch there “L’Hôtellerie du Lac de Gaube” and then go on towards Gavarnie where “Le Magret” in Lourdes. you will spend the night after having “L’Alexandra” in Lourdes. discovered the Cirque. Don’t forget La pizzeria “Da Marco” in Lourdes. to make a stop at the summits of the Night in Lourdes. passes to make the most of the view. Gavarnie Cauterets Pont-d’Espagne: The Pic du Midi: an exceptional 51km/1h16. panorama accessible to all. Cauterets-Pont d’Espagne Lourdes: Allow three hours (including lunch). 38.6km/48min.

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