Peyresourde Mountain Pass Louron Valley Balnea
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Estarvielle Mont daY 1 12 km/15 min Peyresourde Genos Pass Balnea Loudenvielle PE YRESOURDE MOUNTAIN PASS LOURON VALLEY BALNEA After passing through Luchon, you arrive at the Peyresourde mountain pass. Take some time to stop at the top. The pass is wide and the view stunning. Do not think twice and go into the little wooden house, the predictable snack bar. 1 crêpe: €0.50, 12 crêpes: €4.50 – take 12! The owner will lend you his collection of wooden Chinese puzzles while he prepares your crepes. But it is already time to leave. With the lake in your sights, charge down the mountain pass with villages scattered along the way. Each village hides precious treasures in the form of amazing Roman chapels with magnificent frescoes, painted to thank God for prosperous leather and wool transactions between this French valley and its Spanish neighbour after the discovery of the New World. Spared by several wars, these chapels are now classified masterpieces.Y ou can contemplate the village of Mont’s 1 fresco on your way down the mountain pass without changing your course. When you arrive at the village of Estarvielle, plunge down into the valley to the Genos-Loudenvielle lake 2 , where there are lovely walks along the banks. Do not forget to climb up to the Genos and Loudervielle’s fortified watchtowers to take advantage of the panorama. Legend says that an underground path links the two. Opposite is a wall of mountain passes and peaks up to 3,000 m high, like a barrier created to preserve the tranquillity of this secretive valley. You can also contemplate it comfortably immerged up to your shoulders in Balnea spa centre 4 . At nightfall, the valley’s villages light up one by one like fairy lights and the lake is lit by their reflection.Y ou will want to stay… 48 WE alSO recOmmend 1 Mont village and its Roman chapel, a classified Historic Monument A beautiful village of 41 inhabitants with an exceptional view. Its church is unique in having an outdoor fresco, depicting scenes of the Last Judgement, which bravely resists the ravages of time. Inside, the walls are also covered with admirable paintings. For €2.00 a recorded explanation tells all. 2 A walk around the Genos-Loudenvielle lake A short circular walk of maximum 1 hour with almost no slope which leaves from the Balnea car park. An alternative: leave from the Loudenvielle village square and climb up to the Moulor Tower and then back down to the lake. Yellow markings. Duration: 1 hour 30 minutes. 3 “Chez Rogé”, a traditional local bistro at Loudenvielle A village institution! It has been open non-stop since 1930 by “Lulu” Roger, then taken over by his daughter, Josette. You might also bump into Claire, the granddaughter and Laura and Flavie, the great – granddaughters. Everyone – holidaymakers and locals alike THE HigHligHT OF THE daY – meet there for a drink, to play 4 Balnea on the banks “belote”, a traditional French card of the Genos-Loudenvielle lake game and sing Pyrenean songs. Since it was created in 2000 Balnea has continued to grow and is now number one in the French Pyrenees. favOuriTE placeS With its international baths theme - 1 La “Table de Saoussas”, American Indian, Roman, Japanese Loudenvielle and Inca – the different well-being A friendly restaurant with a family areas and soothing thermal baths atmosphere serving local produce. take the young and the old on a Visit the lovely mil, on the other side journey around the world and of the road, in a charming and rustic accross time. The ultimate: the setting. outdoor lagoons of the Japanese and Inca baths, with temperatures 2 “Chez Lily”, Germ from 33°C to 40°C and a panoramic a new, unique address – singular view over the top of the valley. and delicious. An arty and cultural Nestled in the heart of one of the bistro in a former sheep shed, Lily’s Hautes-Pyrenees most beautiful sheep shed. Tapas is served for the natural settings, on the banks of the aperitif and the chef suggests dishes Genos-Loudenvielle lake, Balnea prepared with fresh, local market does not only look after your physical produce. and spiritual well-being. You will also be dazzled by the beauty of the Pyrenees. 49 D-929 Saint-Lary- Soulan Val Louron- 186 km/3 h 40 Aragnouet Azet Pass daY 2 Loudenvielle SPAIN VAL LOURON - AZET MOUNTAIN PASS Ainsa ARAGONESE SPAIN SAINT-LAry The morning sun shines on the summit before arriving down in the valley. It is time to get started. From Genos, strike out on the hairpin bends of the Val Louron-Azet mountain pass. Concentrating on the road is difficult with such a magnificent view of the mountain peaks of more than 3,000 m serving as a border with Spain. On the summit the road crosses vast grazing meadows, one of the preferred take-off spots for hang-gliders and paragliders. Then descend towards the great Pyrenean valley, Saint-Lary which is directly accessible to Spain via the first cross-border tunnel, Aragnouet-Bielsa. Such an invitation is hard to resist, so once in Sailhan, having passed by the original marble fountain with four drinking troughs, head for Spain! After a tunnel of only 3 km dug through the heart of the Pyrenees and you find yourself in a different world. Welcome to Aragonese Spain. Here everything is ochre and flooded with light by the force of the sun. Take the road towards Ainsa 9 , the capital of Sobrarbe, built on the headland around the ancient castle. But do not miss a few escapades, starting with Tella 7 village (at the junction 5km from Lafortunada), the valley’s former lookout from where you can behold one of the most beautiful Pyrenean panoramas in every direction: to the west, Ordesa and the Mont-Perdu, to the east, the Peña Montañesa and the Cinca valley. When you are back on the road, turn right again, just before Escalona village. This lovely circuit invites you on an adventure in the Añisclo canyon 8 , along the “rios” with its tempting natural pools, emerald in colour and heartily recommended for swimming. After your day in Spain, Saint-Lary is an ideal base camp for the night. 50 WE alSO recOmmend 4 “La Grange”, Saint-Lary-Soulan Selected by the Michelin Guide and 5 The Cap de Long dam described as a “smart, cosy restaurant and the lakeside road with a resolutely mountain-dweller’s A monumental dam of more than atmosphere. Full of flavour and 100 m with 40 km of galleries which carefully prepared, the dishes are links it to the Pragneres hydraulic made with the finest regional produce: power station in the neighbouring trout tartare, locally raised lamb valley. The 2nd most important dam chops, prune custard flan…a great in the Pyrenees, it took seven years spot.” (from 1946 to 1953) and more than 6,000 workers to build this Autun Road, Saint-Lary-Soulan. extraordinary construction. This itinerary takes you along the road around the superb Oredon, Aumar and Aubert lakes. A must-see! On the road which goes to the tunnel, after passing through the small village of Fabian, take the D929 to the right. Pineta valley 6 Turn right just before Bielsa towards the secretive valley of Pineta. Follow the river until the giant Mont-Perdu – 3,355 m high – stops you. You have arrived at your destination. The Parador hotel provides a comfortable stopover in a grandiose decor. 9 Mayor square in Ainsa A cobbled square surrounded by arcades and flowering balconies THE HigHligHT OF THE daY situated in the medieval upper town, 8 The Añisclo canyon built on the headland where it is in the Ordesa National Park protected by a fortress. The view is and Mont-Perdu superb and the setting charming. Less famous than the Ordesa 40km from the tunnel exit. canyon, the Añisclo canyon is more preserved. Just before Escalona, turn 10 Ainsa lake right into the road which climbs A magnificent, turquoise lake the gorges of the Añisclo canyon accessible to bathers by many dirt towards Fanlo. The road penetrates tracks. A solitary church tower – the canyon – it is narrow but there is the last remnant of the engulfed no danger as it is only one-way. After village – stands out of the water about 10km a car park at a hair in the middle of the lake. pin bend is the starting point for a A startling scene. lovely walk which takes you (in less than 30 minutes) to La Ermita de San Urbez (named after one of Haut favOuriTE placeS Aragon’s most iconic saints) nestled in a hollow of the cliff. Take the road 3 “Bodegas del Sobrarbe”, Ainsa to the next junction and turn left On the ground floor of an old towards Buerba. Stop for a minute fortified house, the restaurant serves on the mountain pass – the view of local dishes. One of the favourites the Añisclo canyon’s fault and over is the Sobrarbe mutton shoulder, Mont-Perdu is breathtaking. Now cooked in the wood stove and served take the road and finish the circuit with “patatas a lo pobre” at Puyarruego where you can swim (potatoes and peppers). in the rio’s natural pools. To return 2, place Mayor, Ainsa. to Escalona, take the main road. 51 Bagneres- de-Bigorre 60 km/1 h 15 Campan Aspin daY 3 Pass Payolle Lake Arreau AS PIN MOUNTAIN PASS Saint-Lary-Soulan BAGNERES-DE-BIGORRE AQUENSIS Another day of surprises as our adventure continues… From Saint-Lary, take the RD929 towards Arreau and make a first stop to visit the covered market, castle, churches and half-timbered houses with corbel arches.