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1 The Best of

Whatever you want to do on a tropical vacation or business trip—play on the beach with the kids (or gamble away their college funds), enjoy a romantic hon- eymoon, or have a little fun after a grueling negotiating session—you’ll find it in Puerto Rico. But you don’t want to waste precious hours once you get here searching for the best deals and the best experiences. We’ve done that work for you. During our years of traveling through the islands that form the Common- wealth of Puerto Rico, we’ve tested the beaches, toured the sights, reviewed countless restaurants, inspected hotels, and sampled the best scuba diving, hikes, and other outdoor activities. We’ve even learned where to get away from it all when it’s time to escape the crowds. Here’s what we consider to be the best that Puerto Rico has to offer.

1 The Best Beaches White sandy beaches put Puerto Rico mainly from New York. However, and its offshore islands on tourist straight people looking to meet maps in the first place. Many other someone while wearing swimwear Caribbean destinations have only will find plenty of lookers (and jagged coral outcroppings or black perhaps takers). See “Diving, Fish- volcanic-sand beaches that get very ing, Tennis & Other Outdoor hot in the noonday sun. The best Pursuits,” in chapter 6. beaches are labeled on the “Puerto • Best Beach for Families: Win- Rico” map on p. 20. ning without contest, Luquillo • Best for Singles (Straight & Beach, 30 miles (48km) east of Gay): Sandwiched between the San Juan, attracts both local fami- Condado and Isla Verde beaches lies, mainly from San Juan, and along San Juan’s beachfront, visitors from Condado and Isla Ocean Park Beach attracts more Verde beaches in San Juan. Beach adults and less of the family trade. buffs heading for Luquillo know Only Isla Verde beach to the east they will get better sands and matches Ocean Park for its broad clearer waters there than in San beach andCOPYRIGHTED good swimming. The Juan. TheMATERIAL vast sandy beach opens people-watching here is nothing onto a crescent-shaped bay edged compared to the well-stuffed biki- by a coconut grove. Coral reefs nis (both male and female) found protect the crystal-clear lagoon on South Miami Beach or Rio from the often rough Atlantic de Janeiro. However, for the waters that can buffet the north- Caribbean, Ocean Park is as good ern coast, making Luquillo a good as it gets. Because many gay place for young children to swim. boarding houses lie in Ocean Much photographed because of its Park, a lot of the beach here is white sands, Luquillo also has tent frequented by gay young men, sites and other facilities, including 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 5

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picnic areas with changing rooms, Boquerón itself, filled with color- lockers, and showers. See “Luquillo ful scenery, stands at the heart of Beach” in chapter 7. a 3-mile (5km) bay, with palm- • Best for Teenagers: More families fringed white sand curving away with teenagers check into the on both sides. In addition to this Hyatt Dorado Beach Resort & panoramic vista, you can also Country Club west of San Juan sample vignettes of local life. Fish- than into any other competitor in erfolk, sailors, and scuba divers Puerto Rico, including the resorts are also attracted to this beach, along the San Juan beach strip. Six where fresh oysters are shucked on beaches border the Hyatt resorts, the spot, doused with Tabasco, each a strip of white sand fronting and sold at various ramshackle the north coast. Because the shacks. You can see that there are Dorado features many activities plenty of interesting photo ops at for kids of all ages, its beaches over this beach. While enjoying the the years have become family scenery and the sands, you can favorites. The Hyatt beaches orig- take a break and order a regional inally opened onto a grapefruit- ice cream at one of the stands. It’s and-coconut plantation, but today made with sweet corn and dusted these 1,000 landscaped acres (400 with paprika. Sound awful? Try hectares) are devoted to fun, rang- it: It’s good. See “The Southwest ing from jogging and biking trails Coast” in chapter 9. to swimming in the longest pool • Best for Windsurfing: Rincón’s on the island. Young people find it winter surf, especially at Playa easy to meet other teenagers here, Higüero, puts Malibu to shame. not only on the beach but while Today surfers from all over the participating in the resorts’ myriad world are attracted to Rincón, of activities. See p. 176. which they have dubbed “Little • Best for Swimming: Whereas on Malibu.” From Borinquén Point much of the northwest coast of south to Rincón, nearly all the Puerto Rico, rough Atlantic waters beaches along the western coast are often deter bathers but attract ideal for surfing from November surfers (see below), the south coast to April. As the windsurfing capi- waters are calmer. On the south tal of the Caribbean, the Rincón coast, Playa de Ponce, outside area was put on the map when it Ponce, Puerto Rico’s second- was the site of the 1968 world largest city, consists of a long strip surfing championships. Some of of beautiful white sand that opens the 16-foot (4.8m) breakers here onto the tranquil waters of the equal those on the north shore of Caribbean. Less crowded than Oahu. See “Rincón” in chapter 9. Condado and Luquillo, Playa de • Best Beaches for Being Alone: Ponce is an ideal place to swim The main island is filled with iso- year-round in clearer, less polluted lated sandy coves that only the waters than those along the more locals seem to know about. The heavily populated northern coast- best, all guaranteed to delight the line. See “Ponce” in chapter 8. escapist in you, stretch between • Best for Scenery: In the south- Cabo Rojo (the southwesterly tip western corner of Puerto Rico, of Puerto Rico) all the way east to Boquerón Beach lies in a section Ponce. Beginning in the west, of the island called the Cape Cod directly east of Cabo Rojo, you’ll of Puerto Rico. The beach town of discover Rosado Beach, Santa 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PUERTO RICO

Beach, Caña Gorda Beach, and Cayo de Afuera. This site gives Tamarindo Beach. Access to you the best preview of dramatic many of these is limited because (and living) antler coral. Nurse of poor roads, but the effort is sharks and the occasional manatee worth it. Be sure to bring the nec- also hang out here. See “Vieques” essary supplies. See the box, in chapter 11. “Puerto Rico’s Secret Beaches” in On the neighboring island of chapter 9. Culebra, the beaches are less vis- • Best for Snorkeling: For snorkel- ited by snorkelers, even though ing, we prefer to escape from the they open onto coral reefs and Puerto Rican mainland altogether, clear waters. The snorkeling is not heading for the isolated beaches of so hot at the island’s most fre- the offshore islands of Vieques quented beach, . and Culebra, part of the Spanish But all you have to do is take a 15- Virgin Islands. In Vieques alone to 20-minute hike from the park- there are some 40 beaches, most ing lot at Flamenco over the hill to of them officially unnamed even Playa Carlos Rosario, which though U.S. sailors once stationed offers some of the best snorkeling on the island have nicknamed in Puerto Rico. A barrier reef vir- their favorites—everything from tually envelops the beach, and you Green Beach to Orchid. The best can snorkel all day. For other great beach for snorkeling on Vieques is snorkeling, you can walk along Playa Esperanza, especially that the cliffs south of here for about a spot in front of the Trade Winds quarter mile (.4km) to a place Guesthouse. Another favorite called “The Wall,” which has 40- location, which we discovered foot (12m) drop-offs, rainbow- when directed there by a Navy hued fish, and other delights. See SEAL, is across the little harbor at “Culebra” in chapter 11.

2 The Best Hotel Beaches • Wyndham El San Juan Hotel was carved out of a plantation. & Casino (San Juan; & 800/ Today it opens onto several miles WYNDHAM or 787/791-1000): of white sandy beaches at the This posh resort occupies the mouth of the Río de la Plata. choicest beachfront real estate at Since the turn of the 20th century, Isla Verde Beach, one of the finest Dorado, which means “golden,” in Puerto Rico. Ideal for swim- has attracted U.S. presidents and ming, the golden sands near the rich folks like the Rockefellers. airport evoke South Miami Beach. Today families can be seen romp- Picnic tables are found here, and ing along its sands. See p. 176. the beach is also good for snor- • Copamarina Beach Resort keling. But it is mostly the (Caña Gorda; & 787/821-0505) sands themselves that provide the lies west of Ponce, Puerto Rico’s attraction—that and all the many second-largest city. A laid-back facilities of El San Juan resort retreat, the resort opens onto one itself. See p. 96. of the best and least crowded • Hyatt Resort at Dorado (Hyatt beaches in southwestern Puerto Dorado Beach Resort & Country Rico. This appealing beach is set a Club; & 800/233-1234 or 787/ quarter mile (.4km) south of 796-1234): Lying 18 miles (29km) Guánica at the edge of a govern- west of San Juan, this posh resort ment-protected marshland known 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 7

THE BEST SCUBA DIVING 7

for its rich bird life. Its pale beige retreat from the noonday sun. See sand fronts a backdrop of bohios p. 217. (thatched huts), where you can

3 The Best Scuba Diving With the continental shelf surround- 60 reef-dwelling species. Larger ing it on three sides, Puerto Rico has marine animals, such as sea tur- an abundance of coral reefs, caves, sea tles, whales, dolphins, and mar- walls, and trenches for divers of all lins, visit the region during experience levels to explore. See “The migrations. Various types of coral Active Vacation Planner” in chapter 2. reefs, underwater caverns, drop- • Metropolitan San Juan: This offs, and deep vertical walls ring easy beach dive off the Condado the island. The most accessible district in San Juan is not as spec- reef dives are along the southern tacular as other dives mentioned and western shores. Getting there here, but it’s certainly more con- is a pain, however. You must brave venient. Lava reefs sculptured a 5-hour boat ride across the often with caverns, tunnels, and over- rough Mona Passage. See the box, hangs provide hiding areas for “Mona Island: The Galápagos of schools of snapper, grunts, and Puerto Rico” in chapter 8. copper sweepers. In the active • Southern Puerto Rico: The con- breeding grounds of the inner tinental shelf drops off precipi- and outer reefs, divers of all levels tously several miles off the can mingle with an impressive southern coast, producing a dra- array of small tropical fish— matic wall 20 miles (32km) long French angels, jacks, bluehead and teeming with marine life. wrasse, butterfly fish, sergeant Compared favorably to the wall in majors, and more—along with sea the Cayman Islands, this Puerto horses, arrow crabs, coral shrimp, Rican version has become the octopuses, batfish, and flying Caribbean’s newest world-class gunards. Visibility is about 10 feet dive destination. Paralleling the to 20 feet (3m–6m). The Con- coast from the seaside village of La dado reef is also ideal for resort Parguera to the city of Ponce, the courses, certification courses, and wall descends in slopes and sheer night dives. See “Diving, Fishing, drops from 60 feet to 120 feet Tennis & Other Outdoor Pur- (18m–36m) before disappearing suits” in chapter 6. into 1,500 feet (450m) of sea. • Mona Island: Mona Island, 40 Scored with valleys and deep miles (64km) west of the city trenches, it is cloaked in immense of Mayagüez in western Puerto gardens of staghorn and elkhorn Rico, is the Caribbean version of coral, deep-water gorgonians, and the Galápagos Islands. Renowned other exquisite coral formations. for its pirate tales, cave-pocked Visibility can exceed 100 feet cliffs, 3-foot-long (.9m) iguanas, (30m). There are more than 50 and other natural wonders, its dive sites around Parguera alone. waters are among the cleanest in See “The Southwest Coast” in Puerto Rico, with horizontal visi- chapter 9. bility at times exceeding 200 feet • Fajardo: This coastal town in east- (60m). More than 270 species ern Puerto Rico offers divers the of fish have been found in Mona opportunity to explore reefs, cav- waters, including more than erns, miniwalls, and channels 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PUERTO RICO

near a string of palm-tufted islets. 5-mile (8km) radius off the shore. The reefs are decked in an array of Overhangs, caves, and tunnels corals ranging from delicate gor- perch in 60 feet (18m) of water gonians to immense coral heads. along mile-long (1.6km) Basslet Visibility usually exceeds 50 feet Reef, where dolphins visit in (15m). Divers can hand-feed spring. The Cracks, a jigsaw of many of the reef fish that inhabit caves, alleyways, and boulders, the corals. Sand channels and a hosts an abundance of goby-clean- unique double-barrier reef sur- ing stations and a number of lob- round Palomino Island, where sters. With visibility often bandtailed puffers and parrotfish exceeding 100 feet (30m), the harems are frequently sighted. Reserve offers a clear look at corals. Cayo Diablo, farther to the east, At the Drift, divers float along provides a treasure box of corals with nurse sharks and angelfish and marine animals, from green into a valley of swim-throughs moray eels and barracudas to and ledges. For the experienced octopuses and occasional mana- diver, Red Hog is the newest site tees. See “Las Croabas” in chap- in the area, with a panoramic wall ter 10. that drops from 80 feet to 1,160 • Humacao Region: South of feet (24m–348m). See “Palmas Fajardo are some 24 dive sites in a del Mar” in chapter 10.

4 The Best Snorkeling Puerto Rico offers top-notch snorkel- of (“Coffin ing even though freshwater run-offs Island”). This isla got its name from tropical outbursts feeding into from an 18th-century French the sea can momentarily cloud the writer who noted that the island’s ocean’s waters. In most places, when shape resembled a cadaver in a cof- conditions are right, visibility extends fin. Over the years there have been from 50 feet to 75 feet (15m–23m). fanciful legends about the island, • Mona Island: This remote island including tales of necrophilia, off the west coast of Puerto Rico star-crossed lovers, and, of course, (see “The Best Scuba Diving,” piracy. Island Adventures will take above) also offers the best snorkel- you to this remote spot for a full ing possibilities. The reefs here, day’s outing, with plenty of snor- the most pristine in Puerto Rico, keling. See “Ponce” in chapter 8. are home to a wide variety of rain- • Fajardo’s Playa Escondido & La bow-hued fish, turtles, octopuses, Cordillera: On the eastern coast moray eels, rays, puffers, and of Puerto Rico, the clear waters clownfish: the single largest con- along the beachfront are the best centration of reef fish life in Puerto on mainland Puerto Rico for snor- Rico. You must bring your snor- keling. The best beach here for keling equipment to the island, snorkeling is Playa Escondido, however, as there are no rentals although the marine wildlife available once you are here. See the refuge known as La Cordillera box, “Mona Island: The Galápa- right off the coast is even more gos of Puerto Rico” in chapter 8. alluring. See “Las Croabas” in • Caja de Muertos: The best snor- chapter 10. keling off the coast of Ponce is on • Vieques & Culebra: For a the uninhabited coast island quick preview of the underwater 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 9

THE BEST HIKES 9

possibilities, refer to “The Best For more information, see chap- Beaches,” earlier in this chapter. ter 11.

5 The Best Golf & Tennis • Westin Rio Mar Golf Course sponsor tennis weeks and offer (Palmer; & 787/888-6000): A special tennis packages. The Hyatt 45-minute drive from San Juan on Dorado Beach Resort & Country the northeast coast, the 6,145- Club weighs in with seven yard (5,618m) Rio Mar Golf Laykold courts, two of them Course is shorter than those at lighted. See p. 174. both and Dorado • Wyndham El Conquistador East. One avid golfer recom- Resort & Golden Door Spa (Las mended it to “those whose games Croabas; & 800/468-5228 or and egos have been bruised by the 787/863-1000): This sprawling other two courses.” Wind here can resort east of San Juan is one of seriously influence the outcome of the island’s finest tennis retreats, your game. The greens fees are a with seven Har-Tru courts and a lot lower than those of its two pro on hand to offer guidance and major competitors. See p. 180. advice. If you don’t have a partner, • Hyatt Resort at Dorado (Hyatt the hotel will find one for you. Dorado Beach Resort & Country Only guests of the hotel are Club; & 800/233-1234 or 787/ allowed to play here. See p. 226. 796-1234): With 72 holes, Dorado • Palmas del Mar Country Club has the highest concentration of (Humacao; & 787/285-2256): golf on the island. Two courses— Lying on the southeast coast on east and west—belong to the the grounds of a former coconut Hyatt. Dorado East is our favorite. plantation, the Palmas del Mar Designed by Robert Trent Jones resort boasts the second-leading Sr., it was the site of the Senior course in Puerto Rico—a par-72, PGA Tournament of Champions 6,803-yard (6,220m) layout throughout the 1990s. designed by Gary Player. Crack True tennis buffs head here, golfers consider holes 11 through too. The Dorado courts are the 15 the toughest 5 successive holes best on the island, and both hotels in the Caribbean. See p. 229.

6 The Best Hikes Bring your boots. Puerto Rico’s moun- El Toro trail passes through four tainous interior offers ample oppor- different forest systems en route to tunity for hiking and climbing, with the 3,523-foot (1,057m) Pico El many trails presenting spectacular Toro, the highest peak in the for- panoramas at the least-expected est. The El Yunque trail leads to moments. See “The Active Vacation three of the recreation area’s most Planner” in chapter 2 for detailed panoramic lookouts, and the Big information. Tree Trail is an easy walk to La • El Yunque (& 787/888-1880 for Mina Falls. Just off the main road information): Containing the is La Coca Falls, a sheet of water only rainforest on U.S. soil, this cascading down mossy cliffs. See Caribbean National Forest east of “El Yunque” in chapter 7. San Juan offers a number of walk- • Guánica State Forest (& 787/ ing and hiking trails. The rugged 724-3724 for information): At the 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PUERTO RICO

opposite extreme of El Yunque’s scuba-diving sites provides hiking lush and wet rainforest, Guánica opportunities found nowhere State Forest’s climate is dry and else in the Caribbean. Called arid, the Arizona-like landscape the “Galápagos of Puerto Rico” riddled with cacti. The area, cut because of its unique wildlife, off from the Cordillera Central Mona is home to giant iguanas mountain range, gets little rain- and three species of endangered fall. Yet it’s home to some 50% of sea turtles. Some 20 endangered all the island’s terrestrial bird animals also have been spotted species, including the rare Puerto here. Eco-tourists like to hike Rican nightjar, once thought to be among Mona’s mangrove forests, extinct. The forest has 36 miles coral reefs, cliffs, and complex (58km) of trails through four for- honeycomb of caves, ever on the est types. We prefer the mile-long alert for the diversity of both plant (1.6km) Cueva Trail, where hikers and animal life, including 417 look for the endangered bufo plant and tree species, some of lemur toad, another species once which are unique and 78 of which thought to be extinct but still are rare or endangered. More than jumping in this area. Within the 100 bird species (two unique) have forest, El Portal Tropical Forest been documented. Hikers can Center offers 10,000 square feet camp at Mona for $1 per night. (929 sq. m) of exhibition space Contact the Puerto Rico Depart- and provides information. See ment of Natural Resources “Ponce” in chapter 8. (& 787/721-5495) for more • Mona Island: Off the western information. See the box, “Mona coast of Puerto Rico, this fas- Island: The Galápagos of Puerto cinating island noted for its Rico” in chapter 8.

7 The Best Natural Wonders • El Yunque (& 787/888-1880 for San Juan, visitors board a tram to information): Forty-five minutes descend into this forest-filled sink- by road east of San Juan in the hole at the mouth of the Clara Luquillo Mountains and pro- Cave. They walk the footpaths tected by the U.S. Forest Service, of a 170-foot-high (51m) cave to El Yunque is Puerto Rico’s greatest a deeper sinkhole. Once they’re natural attraction. Some 100 bil- inside, a 45-minute tour helps lion gallons of rain fall annually everyone, including kids, learn to on this home to four forest types differentiate stalactites from sta- containing 240 species of tropical lagmites. At the Pueblos sinkhole, trees. Families can walk one of the a platform overlooks the Camuy dozens of trails that wind past River, passing through a network waterfalls, dwarf vegetation, and of cave tunnels. See “Arecibo & miniature flowers, while the Camuy” in chapter 7. island’s colorful parrots fly over- • Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature head. You can hear the sound of Reserve (& 787/722-5882): This Puerto Rico’s mascot, the coquí, a 316-acre (126-hectare) nature small frog. See “El Yunque” in reserve about 45 minutes from chapter 7. San Juan encompasses seven dif- • Río Camuy Caves (& 787/898- ferent ecological systems, includ- 1 3100): Some 2 ⁄2 hours west of ing forestland, mangroves, lagoons, 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 11

THE BEST FAMILY RESORTS 11

beaches, cliffs, and offshore coral Call to reserve space before going, reefs. Five days a week (Wed–Sun), as bookings are based on stringent the park staff conducts tours in restrictions as to the number of Spanish and English, the latter at persons who can tour the park 1 2pm only. Each tour lasts 2 ⁄2 without damage to its landscape or hours and is conducted with elec- ecology. The cost is a relative bar- tric trolleys that traverse most of gain, $5 for adults, $2 for children the park. Tours end with a climb under 13, and $2.50 for seniors. to the top of the still-working, See the box, “To the Lighthouse: 19th-century lighthouse for views Exploring Las Cabezas de San Juan over Puerto Rico’s eastern coast Nature Reserve” in chapter 10. and nearby Caribbean islands.

8 The Best Family Resorts Puerto Rico has a bounty of attrac- of the best restaurants in San Juan. tions, natural wonders, and resorts See p. 96. that welcome families who choose to • Hyatt Resort at Dorado (Hyatt play together. Here are some of the Dorado Beach Resort & Country best. Club; & 800/233-1234 or • Wyndham Condado Plaza Hotel 787/796-1234): Sitting 18 miles & Casino (San Juan; & 800/468- (29km) west of San Juan, the 8588 or 787/721-1000): This Hyatt Dorado Beach Resort & resort offers Camp Taíno, a regu- Country Club offers a Camp lar program of activities and spe- Coquí program available for guests cial events for children ages 5 to ages 3 to 12. Certified counselors 12. The cost of $25 per child direct programs of educational, includes lunch. The main pool has environmental, and cultural activ- a kids’ water slide that starts in a ities. In the evening, movies, tal- Spanish castle turret, plus a tod- ent shows, and video games dler pool. For teenagers, the hotel occupy the agenda. All this costs has a video game room, tennis $40 from 9am to 4pm, per kid. courts, and various organized Parents find one of the largest activities. For the whole family, beaches and resort complexes in the resort offers two pools and the Caribbean, including the opens onto a public beach. It also world’s longest freshwater river has the best collection of restau- pool. See p. 176. rants of any hotel on the Con- • Wyndham El Conquistador dado. See p. 87. Resort & Golden Door Spa (Las • Wyndham El San Juan Hotel & Croabas; & 800/468-5228 or Casino (San Juan; & 800/WYN- 787/863-1000): Located 31 miles DHAM or 787/791-1000): The (50km) east of San Juan, this grandest hotel in Puerto Rico lies resort offers Camp Coquí on on Isla Verde, the less-famous strip Palomino Island for children 3 to of beach connected to the Con- 12 years of age. The hotel’s free dado. Its Kids Klub features trained water taxi takes kids to the island counselors and group activities for for a half or full day of watersports the 5-to-12-year-old set. A daily and nature hikes. This resort has fee of $40 buys lunch and an array some of the best facilities and of activities. The hotel opens onto restaurants in eastern Puerto Rico. a good beachfront and has some See p. 226. 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 12

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9 The Best Honeymoon Resorts • Wyndham El San Juan Hotel & and disco, plus a whirlpool, tennis Casino (San Juan; & 800/WYN- courts, and a fitness room. The DHAM or 787/791-1000): If you two restaurants serve the best food want Vegas-style shows, gambling, on the south coast. Five suites are nightlife, great restaurants, and ideal for honeymoons. A $208- the most famous beach in Puerto per-night package includes a bottle Rico, El San Juan is at your dis- of champagne, truffles, chocolates, posal. It has the most glamorous and fresh strawberries, as well as lobby in the Caribbean and is set breakfast daily, plus $25 in casino on 12 acres (4.8 hectares) of Isla chips. You also receive a coupon Verde, a strip of beach connected granting 50% off on your next to the Condado. Options include visit. See p. 191. a suite in the main tower with a • Horned Dorset Primavera Hotel whirlpool or your own private (Rincón; & 800/633-1857 or casita with a sunken Roman bath. 787/823-4030): The most roman- The best deal is a package, costing tic place for a honeymoon on the from $319 per night for 3 nights. island (unless you stay in a private A lot of freebies are thrown in villa somewhere), this small, tran- including: champagne and tropi- quil estate lies on the Mona Pas- cal fruit, daily tennis, one dinner, sage in western Puerto Rico, a continental breakfast, and two pocket of posh where privacy is massages. See p. 96. almost guaranteed. Accommoda- • Hyatt Dorado Beach Resort & tions are luxurious in the Spanish Country Club (Dorado; & 800/ neocolonial style. The property 233-1234 or 787/796-1234): You opens onto a long, secluded beach can book one of the elegantly fur- of white sand. There are no nished upper-level rooms in the phones, TVs, or radios in the Oceanview Houses and enjoy rooms to interfere with the soft romantic vistas of two crescent- sounds of pillow talk. This is a shaped beaches. There’s casino retreat for adults only, with no and disco action, plus a spa, health facilities for children. Seven-night club, jogging trails, and 14 tennis packages, with all meals included courts. In low season packages and round-trip transfers from the range from $3,990 to $5,075 for airport, range from $6,350 to two for the week, including one $10,500 per couple, depending breakfast, champagne, T-shirts, on the season. See p. 207. $25 in casino chips, two massages, • Wyndham El Conquistador one dinner with wine, and trans- Resort & Golden Door Spa (Las fers to and from the airport. In Croabas; & 800/468-5228 or high season the tab rises $5,985 to 787/863-1000): If you’re looking $7,385 a week per honeymooning for good food and diversions couple, but breakfast and dinner rather than a tranquil retreat, are included. See p. 176. El Conquistador is the best big- • Ponce Hilton & Casino (Ponce; time resort on the island. Atop a & 800/HILTONS or 787/259- 300-foot (90m) bluff in eastern 7676): A first-class act at Puerto Puerto Rico, it has virtually every- Rico’s “second city” on the south thing for outdoor play, including coast, this sprawling resort is set in golf and tennis, but when you an 80-acre (28-hectare) garden. want seclusion, you can post the On-site amenities include a casino PRIVADO sign and the world is 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 13

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS 13

yours. Honeymoon packages, basket and champagne, one din- based on 3 nights and 4 days, cost ner in the room, two massages, $489 per couple in winter or $349 and all breakfasts. See p. 226. off season, and include a fruit

10 The Best Big Resort Hotels • Ritz-Carlton San Juan Hotel, windsurfing, swimming, and Spa & Casino (San Juan; & 800/ dozens of watersports are available 241-3333 or 787/253-1700): At as is the most elegant dining in last Puerto Rico has a Ritz- Dorado. See p. 176. Carlton, and this truly deluxe, • Westin Rio Mar Beach Resort oceanfront property is one of the and Golf Club (Rio Grande; island’s most spectacular resorts. & 800/WESTIN-1 or 787/888- Guests are pampered in a setting 6000): This $180 million 481- of elegance and beautifully fur- acre (192-hectare) resort, 19 miles nished guest rooms. Hotel dining (31km) east of the San Juan air- is second only to that at El San port, is one of the three largest Juan, and a European-style spa hotels in Puerto Rico. Despite its features 11 treatments “for body size, personal service and style are and beauty.” See p. 95. hallmarks of the property. Twelve • Wyndham El San Juan Hotel & restaurants and lounges boast an Casino (San Juan; & 800/WYN- array of cuisines. Along with its DHAM or 787/791-1000): An proximity to two golf courses, opulent circular lobby sets the entertainment, such as an exten- haute style at the Caribbean’s most sive program of live music, is a key elegant resort. From its location ingredient in the hotel’s success. along Isla Verde Beach, it houses See p. 180. some of the capital’s finest restau- • Wyndham El Conquistador rants and is the city’s major enter- Resort & Golden Door Spa (Las tainment venue. Guest rooms are Croabas; & 800/468-5228 or tropically designed and main- 787/863-1000): The finest resort tained in state-of-the-art condi- in Puerto Rico, this is a world-class tion. See p. 96. destination—a sybaritic haven for • Hyatt Dorado Beach Resort & golfers, honeymooners, families, Country Club (Dorado; & 800/ and anyone else. Three intimate 233-1234 or 787/796-1234): “villages” combine with one grand Lying on the former stamping hotel, draped along 300-foot grounds of the Rockefellers, these (90m) bluffs overlooking both the low-rise buildings blend into the Atlantic and the Caribbean at lush surroundings of a grapefruit- Puerto Rico’s northeastern tip. and-coconut plantation. Spacious The 500 landscaped acres (200 rooms open onto a long stretch hectares) include tennis courts, an of secluded beach, and grounds 18-hole Arthur Hills–designed include an 18-hole champi- championship golf course, and a onship golf course designed by marina filled with yachts and Robert Trent Jones Sr. Tennis, charter boats. See p. 226.

11 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels • Gallery Inn at Galería San Juan in the Caribbean sits in the heart (San Juan; & 787/722-1808): The of the historic city. Once the home most whimsically bohemian hotel of an aristocratic Spanish family, it 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 14

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is today filled with verdant court- the area. Set in a palm grove, the yards and adorned with sculp- resort is handsomely decorated tures, silk screens, and original and comfortably furnished, with a paintings. Staying in one of the swimming pool and two tennis comfortable rooms here is like liv- courts. See p. 217. ing in an art gallery. See p. 84. • Lemontree Waterfront Suites • At Wind Chimes Inn (San Juan; (Rincón; & 787/823-6452): On & 800/946-3244 or 787/727- a sandy beach at the windsurfing 4153): This renovated and restored capital of the Caribbean, this Spanish manor house, a favorite colony offers large apartments with families, is one of the best with kitchenettes, ideal for fami- guesthouses in the Condado dis- lies who like to prepare some of trict. The inn offers spacious their own meals. See p. 208. rooms with kitchens, lies only a • Hacienda Tamarindo (Vieques; short block from Puerto Rico’s & 787/741-8525): On the site of most famous beach, and also fea- a 1990s nightclub, this expanded tures a pool. See p. 91. inn has style, flair, charm, and a • Copamarina Beach Resort desirable location—just inland (Caña Gorda; & 800/468-4553 from a great white sandy beach. or 787/821-0505): Near Ponce, Built around a massive 2-century- this resort was once the private old tamarind tree and operated by vacation retreat of local cement a couple from Vermont, the inn barons—the de Castro family. has comfortable and appealing Today it’s been converted into one accommodations, which are often of the best beach hotels along furnished with antiques. The wel- Puerto Rico’s southern shore. In come is warm. See p. 239. fact, its beach is one of the best in

12 The Best Attractions • The Historic District of Old San and legend, the site covers enough Juan: There’s nothing like it in the territory to accommodate a nine- Caribbean. Partially enclosed by hole golf course. See p. 132. old walls dating from the 17th • The Historic District of Ponce: century, Old San Juan was desig- Second only to Old San Juan in nated a U.S. National Historic terms of historic significance, the Zone in 1950. Some 400 mas- central district of Ponce is a blend sively restored buildings fill this of Ponce Créole and Art Deco district, which is chockablock with building styles, dating mainly tree-shaded squares, monuments, from the 1890s to the 1930s. One and open-air cafes as well as shops, street, Calle Isabel, offers an array restaurants, and bars. If you’re of Ponceño architectural styles, interested in history, there is no which often incorporate neoclassic better stroll in the West Indies. See details. The city underwent a mas- “Seeing the Sights” in chapter 6. sive restoration preceding the cele- • Castillo de San Felipe del Morro bration of its 300th anniversary in (Old San Juan): In Old San Juan 1996. See “Ponce” in chapter 8. and nicknamed El Morro, this • (Ponce): fort was originally built in 1540. This museum has the finest col- It guards the bay from a rocky lection of European and Latin promontory on the northwestern American art in the Caribbean. tip of the old city. Rich in history The building was designed by 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 15

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Edward Durell Stone, who also breadth of architectural styles, San designed the Museum of Modern Germán is also the second Puerto Art in New York City. Contempo- Rican city (after San Juan) to be rary works by Puerto Ricans are included in the National Register displayed, as well as works by an of Historic Places. Buildings, mon- array of old masters, including uments, and plazas fill a 36-acre Renaissance and baroque pieces (14-hectare) historic zone. Today’s from Italy. See p. 184. residents descend from the smug- • Tropical Agriculture Research glers, poets, priests, and politi- Station: These tropical gardens cians who once lived here in “the contain one of the largest collec- city of hills,” so-called because of tions of tropical species intended the mountainous location. See for practical use. These include “San Germán” in chapter 8. cacao, fruit trees, spices, timbers, • Iglesia Porta Coeli (San Germán): and ornamentals. Adjacent to the The main attraction of this ancient Mayagüez campus of the Univer- town is the oldest church in the sity of Puerto Rico, the site attracts New World. It was originally built botanists from around the world. by Dominican friars in 1606. The See “Mayagüez” in chapter 8. church resembles a working • The City of San Germán: In chapel, although Mass is held here the southwestern corner of only three times a year. Along the Puerto Rico and founded in 1512, sides of the church are treasures this small town is Puerto Rico’s gathered from all over the world. second-oldest city. Thanks to a See “San Germán” in chapter 8.

13 The Best Restaurants • Aquaviva (San Juan; & 787/722- island. Its chef serves a Nuevo 0665): Dauntingly stylish, this is Latino cuisine that is a happy one of the grand new restaurants medley of Puerto Rican delights, of Puerto Rico, specializing in a drawing upon the Spanish, Latin nouvelle cuisine with fresh African, and even Taíno influences seafood a specialty. You can count of the island. Menu items are on the best catch of the day—the based on updated interpretations prime specimens—which are then of old-fashioned regional dishes— prepared with consummate skill. everything from criola-styled flank See p. 107. steak to a pan-seared tuna served • Barú (San Juan; & 787/977- with a sauce of dark rum and 7107): Fashionable and popular, essence of oranges. See p. 109. this is a creative showcase for a • Ramiro’s (San Juan; & 787/721- fusion Caribbean and Mediter- 9049): Chef Jesús Ramiro has ranean cuisine, occupying stately some of the most innovative looking premises in the Old cookery along the Condado Town. Sterling craftsmanship beachfront strip, along with the marks a menu that includes, for city’s best wine list. Ramiro has example, five different kinds of made his culinary reputation with carpaccio. See p. 108. such dishes as quail stuffed with • Parrot Club (San Juan; & 787/ lamb in a port sauce and lamb loin 725-7370): This addition to the in a tamarind coriander sauce, San Juan scene has already been both equally delectable. His acclaimed as one of the finest and dessert menu is two pages long and most innovative restaurants on the includes the town’s best soufflés. 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 16

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His death-by-chocolate mousse on refined dining with such imagina- a green grape leaf is equaled only tive and good-tasting dishes as by his caramelized fresh mango tamarind barbecued lamb with napoleon. See p. 120. yucca mojo. See p. 193. • Ajili Mójili (San Juan; & 787/ • La Cava (in the Ponce Hilton, 725-9195): On the Condado Ponce; & 787/259-7676): The beachfront, Ajili Mójili provides stellar restaurant of this first-class the most refined interpretation of hotel, La Cava was designed to classic Puerto Rican cookery on resemble a 19th-century coffee the island. Locals find it evocative plantation. It’s the most elegant of the food they enjoyed at their restaurant along the southern tier, mother’s table, one example being and it serves delectable interna- mofongos—green plantains stuffed tional cuisine. From the ever- with veal, chicken, shrimp, or changing menu, you are likely to pork. The chefs take that cliché be served everything from grilled dish arroz con pollo (stewed chicken lamb sausage on a bed of couscous with saffron rice) and raise it to to tuna loin seared with sesame celestial levels. The restaurant takes oil. See p. 193. its name from the lemon-garlic • The Landing (Barrios Puntas/ sweet chile salsa that’s traditionally Playa Antonio; & 787/823- served here with fish or meat. 3112): One of the best dining See p. 118. spots along the western coast of • Mark’s at the Meliá (Ponce; Puerto Rico, this restaurant has a & 787/284-6275): Mark French setting like a stylish private home. has elevated Puerto Rican dishes to Its international cuisine draws a new high at this endearing restau- hundreds of patrons nightly who rant that also serves an impeccable enjoy jerk chicken and lobster international cuisine. He took kabobs, among other dishes, while over what was a backwater and taking in a view of the legendary turned the place into an enclave of Rincón surf. See p. 210.

14 The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences • Attending a Cockfight: Although well-developed reefs in Puerto a brutal sport that many find dis- Rican waters. In fact, they have tasteful, cockfighting is legal in been nominated as a U.S. National Puerto Rico and has its devotees. Marine Sanctuary. The tropical The most authentic cockfights are marine ecosystem around Mona in the town of Salinas in the includes patch reefs, black coral, southeast. But it’s not necessary to spore and groove systems, under- go that far to witness one of these water caverns, deep-water sponges, bouts. Three fights a week are held fringing reefs, and algal reefs. The at the Coliseo Gallistico, Route lush environment attracts octo- 37 (& 787/791-6005), in San puses, lobster, queen conch, rays, Juan. Betting is heavy when these barracuda, snapper, jack, grunt, roosters take to the ring. See “San angelfish, trunkfish, filefish, but- Juan After Dark” in chapter 6. terfly fish, dolphin, parrotfish, • Diving off Mona Island tuna, flying fish, and more. The (Mayagüez): Surrounded by some crystal waters afford exceptional of the most beautiful coral reefs in horizontal vision from 150 feet to the Caribbean, Mona Island has 200 feet (45m–60m), as well as the most pristine, extensive, and good views down to the shipwrecks 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 17

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that mark the site—including road. As you drive throughout the some Hispanic galleons. Five island, stop and take your pick of species of whales visit the island’s the roadside dives. They may look offshore waters. See the box, junky, even trashy, but the food is “Mona Island: The Galápagos of often a delight—and cheap, too. Puerto Rico” in chapter 8. You’ll find succulent barbecued • Visiting Vieques & Culebra: pig, pastelillos (pastry turnovers Puerto Rico’s offshore islands— filled with meat, cheese, or sea- still relatively undiscovered by the food), surullitos (deep-fried corn- modern world—remain an offbeat meal sticks), alcapurrias (a filling adventure, and they’ve got great of fish or meat in a deep-fried beaches, too. The most developed casing of finely grated green plan- is Vieques, which attracts visitors tains and taro root), bacalaitos with its gorgeous stretches of sand (deep-fried codfish fritters), papas with picnic facilities and shade relleñas (stuffed potatoes), and trees. It is an ideal retreat for arañitas (“little spiders”—actually, snorkelers and tranquillity seekers. deep-fried clusters of shredded The beaches are nearly always green plantains). deserted, even though they are You don’t have to go far for bar- among the Caribbean’s loveliest. becued pig—just head to the road- Nearly three-quarters of the island side food stands in Luquillo Beach, is owned by the Fish & Wildlife to the east of San Juan. It makes Service. The even less developed for a great picnic at the beach. Culebra has a wildlife refuge, A truck stop, Café Restaurant coral reefs, and Playa Flamenco, La Nueva Union, 35 miles another of the Caribbean’s finest (56km) west of San Juan at the beaches. And is it ever sleepy here! junction of Carretera 2 and High- See chapter 11. way 22 between Arecibo and • Spending the Evening at Mos- Hatillo, serves the most succulent quito (Phosphorescent) Bay traditional fare. Sample its fresh (Vieques Island): At any time octopus salad, its meaty goat stew, except when there’s a full moon, and definitely its guisados (beef you can swim in glowing waters lit stew). Don’t leave without an by dinoflagellates called pyrodini- order of coconut flan. ums (whirling fire). These crea- If you make it all the way tures light up the waters like around the island to La Parguera, fireflies, and swimming among stop at El Quenepo, a lunch them is one of the most unusual wagon parked under a towering things to do anywhere—truly a quenepa (a tropical fruit tree) on magical, almost psychedelic expe- Route 116 between routes 304 rience. It’s estimated that a gallon and 324. You can usually spot it of bay water might contain about by a line of cars letting passengers three-quarters of a million of these out to sample the delights from its little glowing creatures. See chap- crowded postage-stamp kitchen. ter 11. El Quenepo offers a vast array of • Sampling the Island’s Nosh Pits: Puerto Rican specialties, many of Think of Puerto Rico as one which you may never have sam- gigantic fast-food joint, for no pled before: cold codfish soup, other island in the Caribbean even a green-bean omelet, and offers such a delectable array of piononos (a “mountain” composed roadside eats. Snack food lies of fried eggs, plantain strips, and around virtually every turn in the seasoned meat filling).