05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 4 1 The Best of Puerto Rico Whatever you want to do on a tropical vacation or business trip—play on the beach with the kids (or gamble away their college funds), enjoy a romantic hon- eymoon, or have a little fun after a grueling negotiating session—you’ll find it in Puerto Rico. But you don’t want to waste precious hours once you get here searching for the best deals and the best experiences. We’ve done that work for you. During our years of traveling through the islands that form the Common- wealth of Puerto Rico, we’ve tested the beaches, toured the sights, reviewed countless restaurants, inspected hotels, and sampled the best scuba diving, hikes, and other outdoor activities. We’ve even learned where to get away from it all when it’s time to escape the crowds. Here’s what we consider to be the best that Puerto Rico has to offer. 1 The Best Beaches White sandy beaches put Puerto Rico mainly from New York. However, and its offshore islands on tourist straight people looking to meet maps in the first place. Many other someone while wearing swimwear Caribbean destinations have only will find plenty of lookers (and jagged coral outcroppings or black perhaps takers). See “Diving, Fish- volcanic-sand beaches that get very ing, Tennis & Other Outdoor hot in the noonday sun. The best Pursuits,” in chapter 6. beaches are labeled on the “Puerto • Best Beach for Families: Win- Rico” map on p. 20. ning without contest, Luquillo • Best for Singles (Straight & Beach, 30 miles (48km) east of Gay): Sandwiched between the San Juan, attracts both local fami- Condado and Isla Verde beaches lies, mainly from San Juan, and along San Juan’s beachfront, visitors from Condado and Isla Ocean Park Beach attracts more Verde beaches in San Juan. Beach adults and less of the family trade. buffs heading for Luquillo know Only Isla Verde beach to the east they will get better sands and matches Ocean Park for its broad clearer waters there than in San beach andCOPYRIGHTED good swimming. The Juan. TheMATERIAL vast sandy beach opens people-watching here is nothing onto a crescent-shaped bay edged compared to the well-stuffed biki- by a coconut grove. Coral reefs nis (both male and female) found protect the crystal-clear lagoon on South Miami Beach or Rio from the often rough Atlantic de Janeiro. However, for the waters that can buffet the north- Caribbean, Ocean Park is as good ern coast, making Luquillo a good as it gets. Because many gay place for young children to swim. boarding houses lie in Ocean Much photographed because of its Park, a lot of the beach here is white sands, Luquillo also has tent frequented by gay young men, sites and other facilities, including 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 5 THE BEST BEACHES 5 picnic areas with changing rooms, Boquerón itself, filled with color- lockers, and showers. See “Luquillo ful scenery, stands at the heart of Beach” in chapter 7. a 3-mile (5km) bay, with palm- • Best for Teenagers: More families fringed white sand curving away with teenagers check into the on both sides. In addition to this Hyatt Dorado Beach Resort & panoramic vista, you can also Country Club west of San Juan sample vignettes of local life. Fish- than into any other competitor in erfolk, sailors, and scuba divers Puerto Rico, including the resorts are also attracted to this beach, along the San Juan beach strip. Six where fresh oysters are shucked on beaches border the Hyatt resorts, the spot, doused with Tabasco, each a strip of white sand fronting and sold at various ramshackle the north coast. Because the shacks. You can see that there are Dorado features many activities plenty of interesting photo ops at for kids of all ages, its beaches over this beach. While enjoying the the years have become family scenery and the sands, you can favorites. The Hyatt beaches orig- take a break and order a regional inally opened onto a grapefruit- ice cream at one of the stands. It’s and-coconut plantation, but today made with sweet corn and dusted these 1,000 landscaped acres (400 with paprika. Sound awful? Try hectares) are devoted to fun, rang- it: It’s good. See “The Southwest ing from jogging and biking trails Coast” in chapter 9. to swimming in the longest pool • Best for Windsurfing: Rincón’s on the island. Young people find it winter surf, especially at Playa easy to meet other teenagers here, Higüero, puts Malibu to shame. not only on the beach but while Today surfers from all over the participating in the resorts’ myriad world are attracted to Rincón, of activities. See p. 176. which they have dubbed “Little • Best for Swimming: Whereas on Malibu.” From Borinquén Point much of the northwest coast of south to Rincón, nearly all the Puerto Rico, rough Atlantic waters beaches along the western coast are often deter bathers but attract ideal for surfing from November surfers (see below), the south coast to April. As the windsurfing capi- waters are calmer. On the south tal of the Caribbean, the Rincón coast, Playa de Ponce, outside area was put on the map when it Ponce, Puerto Rico’s second- was the site of the 1968 world largest city, consists of a long strip surfing championships. Some of of beautiful white sand that opens the 16-foot (4.8m) breakers here onto the tranquil waters of the equal those on the north shore of Caribbean. Less crowded than Oahu. See “Rincón” in chapter 9. Condado and Luquillo, Playa de • Best Beaches for Being Alone: Ponce is an ideal place to swim The main island is filled with iso- year-round in clearer, less polluted lated sandy coves that only the waters than those along the more locals seem to know about. The heavily populated northern coast- best, all guaranteed to delight the line. See “Ponce” in chapter 8. escapist in you, stretch between • Best for Scenery: In the south- Cabo Rojo (the southwesterly tip western corner of Puerto Rico, of Puerto Rico) all the way east to Boquerón Beach lies in a section Ponce. Beginning in the west, of the island called the Cape Cod directly east of Cabo Rojo, you’ll of Puerto Rico. The beach town of discover Rosado Beach, Santa 05_556282 ch01.qxd 6/16/04 10:53 AM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PUERTO RICO Beach, Caña Gorda Beach, and Cayo de Afuera. This site gives Tamarindo Beach. Access to you the best preview of dramatic many of these is limited because (and living) antler coral. Nurse of poor roads, but the effort is sharks and the occasional manatee worth it. Be sure to bring the nec- also hang out here. See “Vieques” essary supplies. See the box, in chapter 11. “Puerto Rico’s Secret Beaches” in On the neighboring island of chapter 9. Culebra, the beaches are less vis- • Best for Snorkeling: For snorkel- ited by snorkelers, even though ing, we prefer to escape from the they open onto coral reefs and Puerto Rican mainland altogether, clear waters. The snorkeling is not heading for the isolated beaches of so hot at the island’s most fre- the offshore islands of Vieques quented beach, Flamenco Beach. and Culebra, part of the Spanish But all you have to do is take a 15- Virgin Islands. In Vieques alone to 20-minute hike from the park- there are some 40 beaches, most ing lot at Flamenco over the hill to of them officially unnamed even Playa Carlos Rosario, which though U.S. sailors once stationed offers some of the best snorkeling on the island have nicknamed in Puerto Rico. A barrier reef vir- their favorites—everything from tually envelops the beach, and you Green Beach to Orchid. The best can snorkel all day. For other great beach for snorkeling on Vieques is snorkeling, you can walk along Playa Esperanza, especially that the cliffs south of here for about a spot in front of the Trade Winds quarter mile (.4km) to a place Guesthouse. Another favorite called “The Wall,” which has 40- location, which we discovered foot (12m) drop-offs, rainbow- when directed there by a Navy hued fish, and other delights. See SEAL, is across the little harbor at “Culebra” in chapter 11. 2 The Best Hotel Beaches • Wyndham El San Juan Hotel was carved out of a plantation. & Casino (San Juan; & 800/ Today it opens onto several miles WYNDHAM or 787/791-1000): of white sandy beaches at the This posh resort occupies the mouth of the Río de la Plata. choicest beachfront real estate at Since the turn of the 20th century, Isla Verde Beach, one of the finest Dorado, which means “golden,” in Puerto Rico. Ideal for swim- has attracted U.S. presidents and ming, the golden sands near the rich folks like the Rockefellers. airport evoke South Miami Beach. Today families can be seen romp- Picnic tables are found here, and ing along its sands. See p. 176. the beach is also good for snor- • Copamarina Beach Resort keling. But it is mostly the (Caña Gorda; & 787/821-0505) sands themselves that provide the lies west of Ponce, Puerto Rico’s attraction—that and all the many second-largest city. A laid-back facilities of El San Juan resort retreat, the resort opens onto one itself. See p. 96. of the best and least crowded • Hyatt Resort at Dorado (Hyatt beaches in southwestern Puerto Dorado Beach Resort & Country Rico.