Stolpman: An Original Rhone Ranger shows experience by Ray and Eleanor Heald

August 01, 2013

After Peter Stolpman, 31, graduated from Georgetown University and gained winemaking experience in Australia and Italy, he joined his parents as partner and general manager at Stolpman Vineyards in Ballard Canyon. His story embodies the spirit.

Unlike most valleys in Calif., (SYV) in Santa Barbara County, runs east from the Pacific Ocean. The coolest growing region in SYV is near the ocean and known as Santa Rita Hills, ideal for chardonnay and pinot noir. Moving inland from the ocean, the climate warms. Ballard Canyon is located in cental SYV, but is too warm for chardonnay and pinot noir, too cool for and , but perfectly suited to growing Rhone varieties like , , and .

New AVA has much to offer

Ballard Canyon will soon be the newest American Viticulural Area (AVA). Of its 600 vineyard acres, half are planted to syrah and 75 percent to Rhone varieties. "We are excited about the new AVA," says Stolpman, "because in the SYV the Santa Rita Hills AVA is known for Burgundy varietals and the Ballard Canyon AVA will be known for Rhone varietals.

"For those interested in vineyard nitty-gritty, our syrah budwood comes from Sonoma's Durell Vineyard and Paso Robles' Estrella River Vineyard. Our syrah wines include the 2010 Stolpman Estate Syrah $28, and the 2010 Stolpman Estate Angeli Syrah $77, harvested from our original planting." If comparing this wine to those of France, think of the Cornas appellation located south of Cote Rotie in the northern Rhone Valley. According to Stolpman, Stephen Tanzer awarded this wine 95 points in his "International Wine Cellar" and said it reminded him of Guigal's La Landonne, one of the greatest syrah based wines in the world.

Other varietal wines

Sangiovese, a Tuscan variety, also grows well because of the limestone soil, unirrigated vineyards and 30 months aging in seasoned oak barrels. "Our 2008 Stolpman Estate $37, is varietally correct and reminiscent of a Chianti Classico Reserva," explains Stolpman. "Since 2001, we have also made a wine named La Croce that is a cofermented blend of sangiovese and syrah."

Roussanne is a late ripening white Rhone variety that grows successfully on limestone soils. "We wait until November to harvest roussanne, after it has developed a rust red color, but still maintains enough acid to make a balanced wine," Stolpman continues. In our experience, the world's benchmark roussanne is produced by Chateau de Beaucastel in the southern Rhone, but the 2009 Stolpman L'Avion Roussanne $47, has similar weight and opulence. The 2010 Stolpman Golden Point White $19, is two-thirds roussanne blended with chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. A real find at the price.

Every winegrower needs a lot of help tending the vines during the growing season and at harvest. This usually means hiring migrant labor. Stolpman, on the other hand, is truly a leader in that they maintain a fulltime crew throughout the year. This means training their workers in the vineyards, but also in cellar techniques. Each year 'the crew' or Cuadrilla is given a two-acre vineyard plot to call their own. They prune the vineyard, harvest the fruit, make a wine and pocket the profit. The 2010 Stolpman La Cuadrilla $26, is their wine (a blend of syrah, grenache, petite sirah and viognier). At the end-of-harvest-party each worker receives his bonus check. How great is that!

A dozen vibrant wines for summer 2012 Top value: Dry Creek Chenin Blanc $12

2012 Dry Creek Fumé Blanc $14

2012 Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc $16 – incredibly refreshing

2011 Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay $22 – value!

2012 Franciscan Napa Valley Equilibrium (white blend) $23 – outstanding

2011 Morgan Highland Chardonnay $27 – outstanding

2011 Jordan Russian River Chardonnay $30 - outstanding

2011 Franciscan Napa Valley Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay $40

2009 Grgich Hills Napa Valley $35

2009 Franciscan Napa Valley Magnificat $50 (Bordeaux varietal blend)

2009 Jordan Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $53

2011 Morgan Double L Pinot Noir $54

Eleanor & Ray Heald have contributed to numerous international publications including the Quarterly Review of Wines. Contact them by e-mail at [email protected].