Côtes Du Rhône-Villages Crus with 18 Villages in This Appellation, It Pays to Know the Ones to Watch, Especially with the Diverse 2011 and 2012 Vintages on the Shelf
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PANEL TASTING Côtes du Rhône-Villages crus With 18 villages in this appellation, it pays to know the ones to watch, especially with the diverse 2011 and 2012 vintages on the shelf. John Livingstone-Learmonth reports COTES DU RHONE-VILLAGES sits between grassroots Côtes N du Rhônes and appellations such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape Côtes du Rhône-Villages and Rasteau. As such, it acts as a youth academy for the 1 Cairanne 10 Rousset-les-Vignes southern Rhône: 18 villages, all trying to become a full 2 Chusclan 11 Sablet 10 appellation, which brings higher prices and supposedly 3 Gadagne 12 St-Gervais 13 improved wines. But villages travel at different speeds. So 4 Laudun 13 St-Pantaléon 17 5 14 DROME here we shine a spotlight on the most notable of the 18, the Massif d’Uchaux St-Maurice 6 Plan de Dieu 15 Séguret VAUCLUSE emphasis naturally falling on those on the rise. 7 Puyméras 16 Signargues 18 At the top is Cairanne, due to reach its own cru status in 8 Roaix 17 Vairéas 14 2014. Miles ahead, its wines are big and bold. It holds all the 9 Rochegude 18 Visan elements for a successful future, backed by several dozen 7 9 8 domaines ranging from the inspired to the competent. 1 RASTEAU Among the front runners to take over from Cairanne are River Valence Rhône 15 River Séguret, Visan, Sablet and Plan de Dieu. Led by Domaine de 11 Ouvèze River 12 5 Mourchon, Séguret combines wine made from altitude with Rhône 6 GIGONDAS those from the plain, and can also call on the authentic, 2 Montelimar Orange BEAUMES- engaging wines of Domaine Jean David, the honest virtues DE-VENISE 4 VACQUEYRAS of Château La Courançonne, and the sleek offerings from SOUTHERN VAUCLUSE Domaines de Cabasse and de l’Amauve. RHONE CHATEAUNEUF- Visan has been perked up by the younger generation in Orange LIRAC DU-PAPE the past 10 years. Northerly and later ripening, its wines Avignon TAVEL River were often a little reedy, with alcohol pushing ahead of Rhône content. More punctilious vineyard care and better judged 0 5 10 15 FRANCE GARD vinifications mean that estates such as Domaines de Coste kilometres Chaude, La Florane, the organic La Fourmente, Montmartel, Arles Avignon Vignoble Art Mas and the dynamic Roche-Audran all offer 16 3 River good drinking, often with well woven local character. Marseille BOUCHES-DU- RHONE Durance Know your names Golfe du Lyon Sablet is frustrating. Hit a good one, and you can have fun, but quality is inconsistent and shouldn’t be. Domaines de Boissan, Chamfort, Les Goubert at Gigondas, Pasquiers and Piaugier lead the way here. Plan de Dieu’s punchy, windy CdR-Villages: know your vintages venue is home to chunky wines from estates such as Les Aphillanthes, Durieu, Espigouette, Pasquiers and merchants 2012 Very good. Free-flowing, lively 2009 Good, sometimes very good. such as Ughetto-Audoin, Ferraton and Gabriel Meffre. fruit in the best, their freshness adding A year with deep sun and compact depth Across the River Ouvèze from Sablet, Roaix also makes appeal. A life of up to eight years for the in manly wines. Drink with country foods good, but limited amounts of red wine, with Domaine best wines. Great choice at Cairanne. and full-flavoured dishes. Note Cairanne, Pique-Basse a favourite. Deserving greater attention is Roaix and Séguret. Massif d’Uchaux – quality winemaking, coolly fruited wines 2011 Good, sometimes very good. and serious domaines such as La Cabotte, Cros de la Mûre, Forward, flashy fruit, but alcohol can be 2008 Modest. Light wines, just a few Renjarde and the Châteaux d’Hugues and St-Estève. Also high, balance imperfect. Drink young. showing amiable features now. underestimated is St-Maurice down the road from Vinsobres – the co-operative is sound, and the Domaines 2010 Excellent. Balance, depth, 2007 Good, some very good. High Viret and Echevin are very good. longevity, power. A true southern alcohol and power in these concentrated Valréas is stirring. Part of the Enclave des Papes and vintage, with notable wines from wines, from a windswept late season. home to red-fruited, spiced wines, for many years the most Cairanne, Massif d’Uchaux, Plan de Dieu Dark juice; fire in the wines. Rasteau, interesting source has been Domaine du Val des Rois, but and the best domaines. Cairanne best. Drink until 2018. now there are purposeful newcomers, such as Mas de Ste Croix, Clos Bellane and Domaines Grande Bellane and du Séminaire. The best of the Gard département comes from Côtes du Rhône-Villages: the facts the old established villages of Chusclan – supple reds, frisky, clear rosés – and Laudun – very good whites, especially at Villages Cairanne, Chusclan, Gadagne, Smallest village St-Pantaléon 25ha Domaine Pélaquié, suave reds. Laudun, Massif d’Uchaux, Plan de Dieu, Production 185,000 hectolitres For excitement and discoveries, I recommend the crus of Puyméras, Roaix, Rochegude, Rousset-les- Maximum yield 41 hl/ha the Côtes du Rhône-Villages; importers can choose from a Vignes, Sablet, St-Gervais, St-Pantaléon, By colour red 95.1%, white 3.4%, rosé 1.5% elson N large field, so what is exported usually has merit. St-Maurice, Séguret, Signargues, Valréas, Visan Varieties allowed Grenache, Syrah, Vineyard area 5,822 hectares Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Carignan, minor red John Livingstone-Learmonth is the DWWA Regional Chair Largest villages Cairanne 956ha; Plan de Dieu varieties such as Counoise, and white Map:Maggie for Rhône and publisher of www.drinkrhone.com 935ha; Signargues 484ha; Laudun 475ha varieties permitted at up to 10% DECANTER • July 2014 | 73 PANEL TASTING Côtes du Rhône-Villages crus 2011 & 2012 2011. It’s not always the case, but seemed to be in Entry criteria: Outstanding 18.5–20pts (95–100pts) The results these vintages.’ He also praised Massif d’Uchaux producers and UK in 2012 for ‘expressive fruit and unusually good agents were invited Unsurprisingly, the 2012 vintage trumped 2011 and the star named village of Cairanne took the bulk of the balance’ and Laudun for its minerality and to submit red Côtes plaudits. But high alcohol and the lack of village individuality were serious concerns. Tina Gellie reports freshness. In the ‘hit and miss’ category, Field du Rhône-Village cited Valréas, Visan and Chusclan which were cru wines from 2011 variable in quality with undefined personalites, and 2012. Two though felt they performed better in 2011. wines per producer WHILE THIS WAS a solid result, said our judges, the crux was ‘I expected it, but Cairanne As expected given the comparative vintage were permitted. whether consumers would understand – or care – about the The scores conditions, 2012 was the clear winner, with more 100 wines tasted difference between one Côte du Rhône named village and really stood head and shoulders concentration and charm, better balance, more Domaine Les Grands Bois, Cuvée Maximilien, another. ‘At a pinch they might know their Gigondas from defined fruit and fresher acidity. However, Orford Cairanne 2012 their Rasteau from their Vacqueyras, but will they know 1 Williams was disappointed that the wines weren’t above the rest’ Matt Walls Outstanding Decanter average score: 18.5/20pts (95/100pts) their Vinsobres from their Visan?’ asked Simon Field MW. as good as they could have been. ‘Phenolic Individual judges’ scores: Simon Field MW 18.5 Marcel Orford-Williams 18.5 Matt Walls agreed: ‘If readers come away from this Villages (multi-village). There’s great value to be had here; ripeness came early in 2012 so I was surprised by 3 Matt Walls 18.5 knowing a few village names that overperformed, they can it’s the go-to appellation for most consumers. And just Highly recommended the number of wines that were 15% – why did find real value when browsing a wine list or a merchant’s above are these wines that we are tasting from the they wait so long to pick their Grenache?’ £11.95 From Vineyards Direct shelf. Cairanne, Sablet and Massif d’Uchaux are villages to lesser-known villages. These could be forgotten, unless they 73 High alcohol is often a charge levelled at The combination of wine roots and food roots works well: take Mireille Recommended keep in mind.’ Marcel Orford Williams, however, still felt the can show their own individual personality.’ Côtes du Rhône, especially with Grenache, and Farjon, whose great grandfather Albert founded Grands Bois at Ste-Cécile- producer name was more of a guarantee of quality, with the And overwhelmingly showing the most personality was 20 that was again the case here. Orford Williams les-Vignes in 1920, and Marc Besnardeau, a Parisian restaurateur. Since village co-ops in particular offering great value for standard Cairanne, which is set to get its own appellation status this Fair said the biggest culprits came from the 2011s but 1997, they have started to bottle, built a new cellar and have bought wine, and a few key names ‘producing the cream’. year. ‘It was the standout,’ said Walls. ‘I expected that to be even so he said they showed ‘better than I thought vineyards at Cairanne and Rasteau. The couple set their stall on making Explaining where these wines stood in the scheme of the the case, but it really stood head and shoulders above the 3 they would for such an awkward vintage’. local, natural wine, and this heart-on-the-sleeve approach brings a genuine Côtes du Rhône, Field said: ‘Châteauneuf-du-Pape is still top, rest.’ Field said prices were increasing in this top village, but Poor Field and Orford Williams felt the lack of more ring to their cuvées.