Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge Vol.11 (1), January 2012, pp 81-89

Biotechnology in Tradition – A process technology of alcoholic beverages practiced by different tribes of , North East

Karuna Shrivastava1*, Greeshma A G2 & Brijesh Srivastava3 1,2Department of Forestry, 3Department of Agricultural Engineering, North Eastern Regional Institute of Science and Technology, Nirjuli-791109, Arunachal Pradesh, India E-mail: [email protected] Received 28.04.09; revised 24.08.10

North eastern region of India in general and Arunachal Pradesh in particular is well known for their age old practice of preparation of alcoholic fermented beverages. These beverages are produced manually and locally using traditional practices as transferred to them by their ancestors. There are 25 major and about 125 sub-tribes inhabiting in the state. These ethnic groups offer an excellent opportunity for studying their traditional practices of preparing alcoholic drinks. Different cereal and millet based fermented beverages are major dietary constituent of their day to day life. These drinks are considered nutritious and of high caloric value. However, whole fermentation process is done without any technical control and hygienic input. In this paper, traditional biotechnological processes of alcoholic beverage preparation as followed by 21 different tribes residing in 14 (out of 16) districts of Arunachal Pradesh, their consumption pattern and per capita consumption of these beverages have been documented. Socio-cultural importance of alcoholic drinks in relation to tribal lifestyle of the state has also been studied.

Keywords: Alcoholic beverages; Arunachal Pradesh; Tradition; Process technology IPC Int. Cl.8: C12 G, A47 G, A23L 1/29, A23L 1/09, A23B 9/00

The original residents of Arunachal Pradesh are a names, ingredients and method of extraction differ large number of ethnic communities that have their with tribe to tribe and area to area. Each tribe has their own heritages, rituals and food habits. The state is own methods for this preparation. The production of rich in traditional foods and beverages and methods of traditional fermented beverages in Arunachal Pradesh processing various forest and agricultural products by has remained a traditional family art, practiced in the tribal communities are well known1. An assort every household in a crude way, transformed from knowledge system also exists among all tribes to mother to daughter and from generation to generation; prepare the fermented beverages with their however, no documentation has so far been done on experience. These fermented beverages are the the process technology, use of raw materials, important part of their day-to-day meal and in production and consumption details. The traditionally different social, cultural and spiritual occurrences like prepared fermented beverages have been reported and festivals and religious ceremonies. Beverages are the documented from other parts of North-east such as alcoholic drinks, which have stimulating and Nagaland2, Assam3, Manipur4, and West refreshing properties and occupy an important Bengal5 and from Himachal Pradesh6,7. These position among tribal groups of Arunachal Pradesh, practices are mainly limited to household level only. India. These drinks contain a large quantity of This research was aimed to study and document carbohydrates, reducing sugar and moderate amount various types of alcoholic and traditionally fermented of alcohol hence provides a substantial part of beverages, their process technology and consumption nutrition to them. People of all age groups consume pattern with particular reference to different tribal these drinks including children (even infants) below groups of Arunachal Pradesh, North-East India. 5 yrs of age. Although, all group of tribes prepare and Methodology consume traditionally prepared drinks but their Arunachal Pradesh, one of the most sparsely populated states of India, covers an area of ______8 *Corresponding author 83743 sq km . This state is a hilly tract lying roughly 82 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL. 11, No. 1, JANUARY 2012

between the latitude 26°28'N and 29°30'N and Table 1Major tribal groups inhabiting different districts of ° ° Arunachal Pradesh longitudes 91 30’E and 96 30'E on the North-east extremity of India. Arunachal Pradesh is known to be Name of Districts Major tribes rich in flora, fauna, power and mineral potential. Lohit Deuri, Khampti, Mishmi, Previously this region was known as the North East Singpho, Zakhring Frontier Agency (NEFA) which was constitutionally a Lower Subansiri Apatani, Hill Miri, Nishing part of the state of . Arunachal Pradesh is Upper Subansiri Adi, Hill Miri, Nah, Tagin bounded by independent countries from three sides Dibang valley Adi, Mishmi Lower Dibang valley Adi, Mishmi i. e. Bhutan in its West, the Tibet region of China in West Siang Adi, Khamba, Memba its northern border and Myanmar (formerly known as East Siang Adi, Mishing 8 Burma) in the eastern border and by Assam and Tirap Nocte, Wancho in the south. Changlang Lisa or Yobin, Singpho, Tangsa The Arunachal Pradesh is a land of lush green Upper Siang Adi, Khamba, Memba forests due to heavy rains, deep river valleys and Papumpare Mikir or Karbi, Nishing beautiful plateaus. The land is mostly mountainous Kurung Kumey Nishing Sulung with the Himalayan range along the northern East Kameng Aka or Horusso, Khowa or Bugun, Nishing, Sulung 3 borders criss-crossed with ranges running North- West Kameng Aka or Horusso, Khowa or South. The rivers have created broad valleys and Bugun, Monpa Miji, divided into 5 river valleys: the Kameng, the Sherdukpen Subansiri, the Siang, the Lohit and the Tirap. All Tawang Monpa these are fed by snow from the Himalayas and Anjaw Khampti, Zakhring countless rivers and rivulets. The sparse population of Source: Lets the world know about Arunachal Pradesh by Jain Arunachal is predominantly tribal in character and & Debnath, 2005 there are 25 major tribes which are divided into about Table 2Format of questioner used for the survey 125 sub tribes scattered over 16 districts and 8 Details of the informant: Name, age, sex etc. 3,863 villages . The principal tribes are Adis, Nishi, Ethnic group: Apatani, Tagin, Mismi, Khampti, Noite, Wancho, Village/town: Tangsha, Singpho, Monpa, Sherdukpen and Aka. District: These tribes follow their own rituals and customs. The Date: districts wise distribution of major tribes9 is given in Fermented drink: Local name, Frequency of consumption: Daily, weekly, monthly, Table 1. The tribal life is very much associated with occasional, major social and cultural events of the state. Most of Amount consumed per day: these communities are ethnically similar, having Detail method of preparation of local beverage: derived from original Mongoloid stock but their Ingredients used: Time taken for preparation: geographical isolation from each other has brought Whether consuming the drink prepared in household/buying amongst them certain distinctive characteristics in from market: language, dress and customs and so in their food Cost of expense: habits8. Cultivation/farming, handloom and Equipments used: handicrafts are the main occupation of Arunachalees. Storability and method of storage: Any other information: The shifting cultivation which has come to be known as ‘Jhuming’ means collective farming to grow native traditionally prepared beverages and their process varieties of cereal crops like rice, millet, barley, technology existing in different tribes of Arunachal maize, etc. occupies the central position in Arunachal Pradesh. A total of 42 villages of 14 districts of Pradesh in the field of agriculture. This is the form of Arunachal Pradesh comprising of 21 ethnic tribes cultivation that sustains majority of the people in the were surveyed in the present study. These villages area which is been practiced from earlier days and represent diverse ethnicity and customary groups of still continues. The same cereals are preferred to be the state. Help of a local guide was taken to obtain used for the preparation of traditional beverages. assistance to reach the survey areas and to approach A survey was conducted with prescribed proforma potential knowledge holders of a particular (Table 2) to collect the detail information on community. A total of 20 members (mostly elder SHRIVASTAVA et al.: BIOTECHNOLOGY IN TRADITION FOR ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE PREPARATION 83

persons and persons who are actively engaged in the consumption directly. It is found to be the best with preparation) from each tribe were interviewed. good alcoholic contents, pleasant smell, taste and pale Women were taken as major source of information yellow in colour. This concentrated drink can be because they are mostly involved in the preparations stored for 4-5 days without spoilage as it does not of the traditional fermented beverages. The data contain any water contents however, by mixing water obtained in questioner and interviews was analysed before extraction; the drink becomes diluted and and presented here. reduced in shelf life (up to 3 days only). In general, the method of preparation of beverage Results and discussion is similar in Karbi tribe but the mode of extraction of The information collected from the survey was the drink is a bit different. When fermentation is over, studied into 3 categories: (i) types of fermented they prepare the drink by a special method and the beverages and their process technology, whole apparatus used for the extraction of the drink is (ii) consumption pattern, and (iii) socio-cultural called Kodtak. After fermentation, enough quantity of importance of the products. A total of twenty one fermented stock is taken in a vessel and water is tribes were surveyed who use eight different types of added (during winter time, lukewarm water is added) traditional drinks which are detailed below: at a rate of 4-5 L for 1 kg of rice. This mixture is then kept for 8-9 hrs for further fermentation. The beer is (i) Types of fermented beverages - process technology filtered using a bamboo pole locally called Hiru, Apong (Flow chat 1; Figs. 1a-c) which is one side open having a small hole on the other side near the closed end. The closed end of the Apong, the most popular and common rice based bamboo pole is inserted vertically into the vessel fermented beverage prepared by almost all tribes of having fermented material. Due to capillary action, Arunachal Pradesh in all districts. Any local variety of the beer enters and collected inside the bamboo rice grown in the area is used for its preparation. The cavity. To collect the drink from bamboo, a dried method of preparation of this beverage was found to Lngjak fruit (Luffa acutangula Roxb.)11 is dipped into be similar in all tribes. The detailed traditional process it and the drink absorbed is squeezed out in a technology of preparation of Apong is depicted below: container for consumption. Apong prepared by this The mixture of cooked rice and starter is locally method can be stored for 1-2 weeks. Storage period known as Khamtip. Earthen pot, wooden containers, improves the quality of drink and ripens to make it utensils, teak or banana leaves may be used for strong in ethanol contents. The filtrate thus obtained is holding the mixture for fermentation. The product processed for distillation to produce Rakshi, which is Apong is clean and milky liquor. Some variations or stronger and more alcoholic than Apong. From 5kg of modifications were observed in certain tribes to improve the quality, quantity and taste through generations. The variation was observed in the method of preparation of Apong by Khampti tribe. They sun dry the cooked rice before inoculation. Instead of metallic container with lid, these people still use and keep mixture of yeast and rice in earthen pots for fermentation. Remaining process for preparation of apong is similar as discussed above. People of Sulung tribe use leaves of Phryium capitulam wild10 (locally known as Etkam, commonly known as wild banana) only to cover earthen pots while fermentation. They are following this practice as told to them by their ancestors however the actual role of using only this plant for covering the pot is not known to them. After fermentation, the solid material is transferred in to another vessel to extract the drink as described above. However, a concentrated drink which is settled at the bottom is preferred for Flow chart 1-Different stages of Apong preparation 84 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL. 11, No. 1, JANUARY 2012

fermented stock, 3 L of Apong and 10-12 L of Rakshi however, use boiled water only for the first can be prepared. preparation and for succeeding process normal water Tagin tribe inhabiting in Upper Subansiri district of is used. This drink is also called Kala Apong. the state have a different extraction method for Apong preparation. The people of this tribe prepare the drink Madua (Flow chart 3; Figs. 2 a-c) by filtering the fermented stock through a sieve made Madua, also one of the most popular and common of bamboo. This extract is consumed as drink. millet based fermented beverage prepared by almost all tribes of Arunachal Pradesh in all districts. It is a Shhang or Ccharo-kham traditional alcoholic drink prepared from finger Shhang or Ccharo-kham is a fermented drink millets. The step wise method of preparation of prepared from barley used by the people of Karbi Madua is represented as flow diagram given below: tribe. Its method of preparation, extraction and uses During saccharification, sweet aroma is emitted out are similar as Apong (Flow chart 1). which is an indication of sufficient fermentation. Then the fermented mass of finger millet is Bankhe-kham transferred into a perforated bamboo basket and warm Bankhe-kham is the fermented beverage prepared 12 water is added drop by drop at a rate of 1 L/hr on to it. from Tapioca (Mannihot esculenta) , a kind of tuber The filtrate is collected in a container kept below. A by the people of Karbi tribe. For its preparation, good quality Madua is golden yellow in colour, sweet Tapioca is first cooked, cooled and grinded into a in taste and has good alcoholic flavour. paste. Rest of the process is similar as Apong (Flow chart 1) preparation. Themsing (Flow chart 4, Fig. 5) Themsing is an alcoholic beverage prepared by Opo (Flow chart 2; Figs.3a-b) Monpa tribe of Tawang district only. It is prepared This is also a rice beverage prepared by most of the either from finger millet (local name-Kongpu) or from tribes in Arunachal Pradesh especially Adi, Nyshing barley (local name-Bong) or mixture of both. The and Mishmi, tribes residing mainly in East and West flow chart of the preparation of Themsing is given Siang, Lohit, Changlang, Upper and Lower Subansiri below. districts (Table1). The detailed method of preparation After fermentation, the fermented stock is is mentioned below. transferred to special container fitted with a PVC pipe The fermented mixture of this preparation is locally having a diameter of approximately 1 cm at the called Pone. A bamboo made funnel is used for extracting the drink from this mixture. The funnel is filled with pone and boiled water is poured slowly through the funnel till the beer is extracted completely. A clean blackish coloured drink is collected in a container. People of Galo tribe,

Flow chart 2–Different stages of Opo preparation Flow chart 3-Different stages of Madua preparation SHRIVASTAVA et al.: BIOTECHNOLOGY IN TRADITION FOR ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE PREPARATION 85

bottom. The drink is sipped out from the pipe and Flow chart 6. These 3 types of drinks are obtained collected in a container. In another method of from 3 different stages of fermentation of the same extraction of Themsing, fermented mass is transferred material. Mingri is the first beer obtained after 4-5 into a perforated bamboo basket, lukewarm water is days of fermentation and collected using bamboo added slowly and filtrate of liquor is collected in a made sieve called Khajir without adding extra water. container. The filtrate has a golden colour and good This is rich in alcoholic contents, light yellowish in aroma. colour and emit good aroma. The left over filtrate is kept for fermentation for 2-3 days more. As a result, Rakshi (Flow chart 5; Fig.4) comparatively darker yellowish beverage is obtained This is an alcoholic beverage prepared by Monpa, with less alcoholic contents and aroma, called Miji and Mishmi tribes (Table 1) residing in West Lohpani. The remaining material is again allowed to Kameng and Tawang districts. This drink is prepared ferment for 4-5 days more to obtain Bhangchang. The from finger millets, rice as well as from barley grains. The methodology of Rakshi preparation is elaborated in following flow chart: After fermentation, water is added to the fermented stock and a large vessel containing fermented material is kept on fire. A small metallic container is kept inside the large vessel above a triplet stand to collect the distillate. A wide vessel containing cold water is kept above the large vessel as condenser whose water is changed at frequent intervals to keep the water continuously cool. The drink prepared in this method has good alcoholic aroma and a very effective ethanol taste.

Mingri, Lohpani and Bhangchang (Flow chart 6; Fig. 6) Flow chart 5–Different stages of Rakshi preparation These are traditional beverages unique to Monpa tribe residing mainly in Tawang district of Arunachal Pradesh. These drinks are prepared from finger millet, rice, maize or barley. The traditional process technology of these drinks is explained in

Flow chart 6–Different stages of Mingri, Lohpani & Bhangchang Flow chart 4-Different stages of Themsing preparation preparation 86 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL. 11, No. 1, JANUARY 2012

drink is collected by adding a little water into the (72.4) and Tawang (71.0) district. The consumption mixture which is then squeezed out and collected. rate of Opo among women is found to be highest in This drink has least alcoholic contents, whitish in Lohit district (41.3%) followed by Tawang (40.8%) colour and has weak aroma. and East Siang (40.0%) districts. The lowest consumption rate of Opo among men is reported from (ii) Consumption pattern of beverages Dibang valley (60.6%) followed by Papumpare In general, alcoholic drink consumption (62.3%) and East Kameng (64.1%) districts and percentage is comparatively more in male than among women it is lowest in Lower Subansiri female. Traditional beverages like Themsing, Rakshi, (22.5%) followed by Changlang (23%) and Dibang Mingri, Lolpani and Bhangchang are prepared and valley (24%) districts. The third most popular drink is consumed only by certain tribes as described above Madua which is most liked by men of West Kameng where as Apong, Opo and Madua drinks are prepared district (73.4%) followed by Lower Subansiri (72.1%) and consumed by almost all tribes in all the and Tawang (70.8%) districts however, lowest 14 districts surveyed (Figs. 8 a-c). All members of consumption rate is recorded from Papumpare district the family except infants and small children (45.7%) followed Dibang Valley (57.8%) and Lower (up to the age of 5 yrs) are usually consuming the Dibang valley (59.6%) districts. The Madua drink. From personal interviews, we came to know consumption among women is highest in West that male members of the society with an age group Kameng district (40.1%) followed by Lower of 16-30 yrs consume the drink regularly Subansiri (40.0%) and Tawang (38.3%) districts (approximately 4-5 glass per day) as compared to the however it is least preferred and consumed by women women and children; however elder women of Papumpare district (20.9%) followed by Changlang (above 40 yrs of age) and all men of the society (21.3%) and Lower Dibang Valley (25.9%) districts. consume the drink daily. The children below 4-5 yrs In general, Apong is the most preferred and consumed of age and infants are also allowed to take it fermented drink in all the 14 districts followed by occasionally during festivals. Generally young Opo and Madua. It is important to mention that the women are reported to consume it at weekly consumption of traditionally prepared alcoholic drinks intervals or during occasions. Alcoholic beverage is found in a reduced trend in districts like consumption rate is higher in the people residing in hilly Papumpare, Lower Dibang valley, Lohit, Upper regions as compared to people of plane areas in the state. Subansiri, West and East Siang districts as compare to others. This may be due to transformation of rural In Arunachal Pradesh, India, the most commonly environment into urban culture, change in the life used traditional fermented beverages are Apong, Opo style of people and availability of readymade brands and Madua. In this study, it is found that in all the 14 in the market (Figs. 7 a-c). districts, these drinks consumed relatively in more quantity and by large number of people. By (iii) Socio-cultural importance comparing the consumption rate in all the 14 districts Arunachal Pradesh is one of the North-Eastern surveyed (Figs. 8a-c), it is evident that the states of India situated in the Eastern Himalayan consumption rate of Apong among men is highest in region. About 85% of the area is covered by forest Tirap district (75.2%) followed by Kurung Kumey and so the people consist of different tribes resides (73.4%) and Changlang (70%) districts. However, it mainly in forest regions. Even up to before 3 decades, is recorded as lowest in Lohit district (52.1%) people of this state were leading ancient life style followed by Papumpare (55.4%) and Upper Subansiri where they were dependent totally on forests and (57.3%) districts. In the same way, the Apong forest products. For beverages preparation also, they consumption among women is recorded as highest in use many wild plants as ingredients12. Since time Tirap district (42.0%) followed by East Kameng immemorial, the people of Arunachal Pradesh are (41.4%) and West Siang (41.3%) districts where as preparing and consuming various kinds of alcoholic the consumption percentage is found lowest in drinks whose process technology have been Papumpare district (26.4%) followed by Upper developed by themselves and passed on from Subansiri (29.3%) and Changlang districts (32.6 %). generation to generation. These technologies are The highest Opo consumption among men is recorded unique to them and still followed in raw form. in Tirap district (78.8%) followed by East Siang Traditional beverages occupy special status and SHRIVASTAVA et al.: BIOTECHNOLOGY IN TRADITION FOR ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE PREPARATION 87

Figs.1-6 1(a-c)-Different stages of Apong preparation as followed by Wancho tribe of Tirap district of Arunachal Pradesh (a)Rice starter mixture kept for (b) Fermented material ‘Khamtip’ (c) extraction of Apong fermentation; 2a-c; Different stages of Madua preparation (a) Millet is kept for fermentation (b) Fermented millet-ready (c) Madua- millet beer for extraction; (3)a-b (a) Burning of rice-husk for the preparation of Opo (b) Pot used for the preparation of Opo; (4)Distillation of Rakshi by Monpa, Miji and Mishmi tribes; (5)Wooden pots used for preparing Themsing by Monpa tribes of Tawang district of Arunachal Pradesh, Source: www.bhptemp.mypcat.com; (6)Extraction of Mingri through bamboo sieve 88 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL. 11, No. 1, JANUARY 2012

beverages during special occasions. The preparations for these drinks which are consumed in large quantities during festivals starts before months ago and the ladies from all families gather together at a place for this purpose. Through this, the unity, integrity, interaction, friendship and affection among families are maintained. For consumption, there is no restriction between age groups, gender and social status. All the members of the family from children to old aged men, from young girls to grand mothers and from poor to rich people consume the same drinks during festive ceremonies and become one in these occasions. So Fermented food beverages have strong ritual importance and are deep rooted in the cultural heritage of the various ethnic groups of this state. More over, these drinks being rich in caloric value serve as a substantial part of their diet however; drinking in excess quantity create some problems like unconsciousness, unusual behaviours13, etc. (Figs. 2–6).

Conclusion Tribal populace of the state is consuming their self prepared beverage on regular basis as well as on festivals and rituals. Along with fermented foods, these drinks are also important and inseparable constituents of their daily source of delicacy. The materials used for traditional fermented beverages are only natural products like rice, millet, barley and some plant materials, tubers, etc. which contain no harmful substances or chemicals hence, they also serve as the source of nutrition. Today, the consumption of alcohol is worldwide as it is used in medicine and for relieving physical discomforts, illness or for pleasure14. The methodology followed by Arunachalees for traditional fermented beverages have similarities with that of methods applied by tribes of states like Assam3, 7 Darjeeling Hills and Sikkim . Some myths are also Figs.(7) (a-c)-District wise rate of consumption of three associated with preparations of beverages like it is commonly used beverages among men and women in believed that certain members of the family have Arunachal Pradesh special ability to prepare the beverages and touching by importance in the social and cultural life of people in any one other than them spoil the whole preparation Arunachal Pradesh. On every social occasion like hence in almost all houses, there are special rooms marriage ceremony, festivals as well as funeral exclusively for the preparation of drinks. In this room, ceremony also, the consumption of these drinks is must no other persons are allowed to enter while process is and customary. Rather festivals are opportunities for all in progress except those involved or permitted. There the members of community to gather and drink the by, contamination by unwanted micro-organisms is beverages together. The drink is offered to every controlled. participant of function including children. People In almost every tribal community, there are people residing in rural areas consume these drinks daily after who still know and understand the traditional values of their hard labour as a stress relieving agent where as, ethnic food and beverages15. Mostly elder people of the the people of urban areas mostly consume fermented society and ladies take the responsibility of this work SHRIVASTAVA et al.: BIOTECHNOLOGY IN TRADITION FOR ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE PREPARATION 89

or instruct their youngsters to follow in the similar investigation. The authors would also like to express manner as they did. In this way, the traditional their sincere thanks to potential traditional knowledge methodology had been transferred and followed even holders, especially Mrs. T. Sathbi, Mrs. Kago Tanii, today. The general process technology of most of the Mr. Tage Choku, Mrs. Tage Sirii, Mr. Michi Richo, traditional beverages is similar with little variations Mrs. Kutum Chungmi, Mr. Jambe Lomu, such as type of substrate used, whether used in raw Ms. Wangmo Dolma, Mrs. T. Sering, Mr. T. Komu, form or after roasting/burning, duration of Mrs. Gardey Passa who were also the local guides and fermentation, type of material/pot used to keep have helped in various ways. fermenting mixture and method of extraction of drink. 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