commercial agriculture –especiallycoffee andcotton–are increasingly important. you’ll meetrely onfishingandsmall-scalefarmingfortheirliving,although industryand idyllic getaways–notablyonRubondoandLukuba Islands, andnearMwanza. Mostlocals time, andatoleranceforroughroads. there Whilemostaccommodation isno-frills, are afew withTanzania’sand/or circuitviathewestern Serengeti, northern althoughyou’llneed National Park forbird-watchingandrelaxing. point forsafarisintotheSerengeti’s Western Corridor. Tothesouthwest isRubondoIsland ’s second largest cityafter DaresSalaam,andanincreasingly popularjumpingoff the mosthighlydeveloped earlysocietiesonthecontinent.,tosoutheast,is lakeshore life. oftheHayapeople,whohadone Bukobaisalsonotableastheheartland and Bukoba–bothwithasleepy,waterside charm–are idealplacesforgettingataste of the Nyerere museum,anessentialstopforanyoneinterested inthegreat statesman. Musoma get acquainted withtheculture ofTanzania’s largest tribalgroup.Further atButiamais north of locallife. At theBujoraCultural Centre nearMwanza,youcanlearnSukumadancingand those whohave abentfortheoffbeatandwhowanttoimmersethemselves intherhythms the Tanzanian seesonlyatrickleoftourists,theregion portion for holdsmanyattractions VictoriaLake isAfrica’s largest andthesecond-largest lake, freshwater intheworld.While lake Victoria Lake 240 © LonelyPlanetPublications The bestwaytoexplore region thelake ofalarger loopcombiningUganda isaspart

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

Delvingintohistoryatthe Treating yourselftoanightortwoat Learning abouttheSukumaat Gettinginto theswingofslowtravel, Relaxingandbirdinginserene Museum from Musoma Lukuba IslandLodge surrounding Hayaheartland while exploring Island NationalPark Cultural Centre 22) t Butiama at ( p242) ( p250 ) nearMwanza Bukoba ( p252) 23) offshore ( p243), ( p253 ) andthe Nyerere Rubondo Bujora National Park Rubondo Bukoba Island Cultural Centre Bujora Lukuba Island Museum Nyerere LAKE VICTORIA 241 Gate Nairobi (80km); Lake Area Eyasi To Narok Gate Seronera Bologonya Naabi Hill Ikoma Gate Crater (30km) Ngorongoro To Ngorongoro Conservation

KENYA r GR Game Reserve National Park

o

d

i NP

r

r e

Isebania r

Ikorongo v Serengeti

i o LEGEND GR NP

R C Migori ὈὈ GR

n Maswa

(15km) i To Kisii

Tarime r t Sirari e

e t r

s m e

u e v r i

W B6 G R (130km) To Singida Butiama Maswa Nyakanga 00 100 km 60 miles Gate Ndabaka B3

Bunda iyu S i m Mwadui ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Musoma Lukuba B6 Shinyanga Magu Kibara- Kisorya Speke Gulf Nyanguge Ngudu perch in the world which is in Tanzania lake Lake by surface Superior after area in North America isn’t recom- (swimming line areas mended) B6 Nile largest by some of the inhabited about half of sq km in area, 68,800 sea level 100m above freshwater world’s second largest the with bilharzia in many shore- infested Nzega

028 „ LAKE VICTORIA FACTS VICTORIALAKE FACTS is: Lake Victoria „ „ „ „

Bujora Mwanza Kisesa Ukara Nansio MUSOMA MUSOMA % – region the Mara Musoma – capital of Pretty Lake of shore on the eastern sits serenely setting on a peninsula Victoria, in a lovely the with both sunrise and sunset views over fish- colourful With its bustling market, water. ing port and small-town pace, the town makes Kikongo ive r Is a ng a R (121km) Gulf To Tabora Mwanza Busisi Ukerewe

Kamanga Nyakaliro Kahama L A K E V I C T O R I A Kome Lushamba B163 Sengerema Kahunda Geita Itabagumba Nkome B3 Maisome Bumbire Rubondo Island NP

Kageye Ὀ Chato Bukoba Mutukula GR Muganza

Kigosi GR Lake Burigi Nyamirembe Nyankanazi Lusahunga iver

LAKE VICTORIA •• Musoma osi R Biharamulo ow GR oy

Burigi M GR Lake Nkurungu Bisongu Benako Moyowosi

Rusumu Falls Ὀ Orugundu Rumanyika GR Kibondo Ngara

Rulenge GR B8

Kabanga

Tarmac roads connect Mwanza with connect Mwanza with roads Tarmac Ibanda To Kasulu (70km); Kigoma (163km) LAKE VICTORIA Kobero To Kigali (50km) BURUNDI RWANDA

Getting There & Around & Around Getting There National Parks & Reserves Reserves Parks & National the main routes, and ferries connect Mwanza and ferries the main routes, Island. Ukerewe and with with Bukoba sealed un- and rough, although are roadworks buses run along Direct pace. derway at a steady well-maintained from Bunda through road Seronera. Corridor to Western the Serengeti’s is un- the road network Otherwise, of much with Bukoba and on to Mutukula and the Mutukula and the with Bukoba and on to unsealed also an but There’s border. Ugandan Musoma and the Kenyan border; Mwanza Mwanza border; Musoma and the Kenyan and Biharamulo and Nzega; with Shinyanga Island. Mwanza, Musoma and Bukoba all have air- all have Bukoba Mwanza, Musoma and on Rubondo an airstrip ports, and there’s Orugundu, Ibanda, Burigi and Biharamulo, Ibanda, Burigi and Biharamulo, Orugundu, for tourism. developed although none are Corridor is covered in the Northern Tanzania Tanzania in the Northern Corridor is covered Lake are Victoria ). To the west of p216 ( chapter several game reserves, including Rumanyika western corner of Lake Victoria, is the region’s Lake Victoria, is the region’s of corner western Western park. The Serengeti’s only national Rubondo Island National Park, in the south- in the Park, Island National Rubondo lonelyplanet.com

ὈὈὈ

ὈὈὈ

ὈὈ

Ὀ

Ὀ ὈὈὈ