© Lonely Planet Publications 240 Lake Victoria LAKE VICTORIA Lake Victoria is Africa’s largest lake, and the second-largest freshwater lake in the world. While the Tanzanian portion sees only a trickle of tourists, the region holds many attractions for those who have a bent for the offbeat and who want to immerse themselves in the rhythms of local life. At the Bujora Cultural Centre near Mwanza, you can learn Sukuma dancing and get acquainted with the culture of Tanzania’s largest tribal group. Further north at Butiama is the Nyerere museum, an essential stop for anyone interested in the great statesman. Musoma and Bukoba – both with a sleepy, waterside charm – are ideal places for getting a taste of lakeshore life. Bukoba is also notable as the heartland of the Haya people, who had one of the most highly developed early societies on the continent. Mwanza, to the southeast, is Tanzania’s second largest city after Dar es Salaam, and an increasingly popular jumping off point for safaris into the Serengeti’s Western Corridor. To the southwest is Rubondo Island National Park for bird-watching and relaxing. The best way to explore the lake region is as part of a larger loop combining Uganda and/or Kenya with Tanzania’s northern circuit via the western Serengeti, although you’ll need time, and a tolerance for rough roads. While most accommodation is no-frills, there are a few idyllic getaways – notably on Rubondo and Lukuba Islands, and near Mwanza. Most locals you’ll meet rely on fishing and small-scale farming for their living, although industry and commercial agriculture – especially coffee and cotton – are increasingly important. HIGHLIGHTS Relaxing and birding in serene Rubondo Lukuba Island Island National Park ( p252 ) Bukoba Getting into the swing of slow travel, Nyerere while exploring Bukoba ( p253 ) and the Museum surrounding Haya heartland Rubondo Island Bujora National Park Cultural Learning about the Sukuma at the Bujora Centre Cultural Centre ( p250 ) near Mwanza Treating yourself to a night or two at Lukuba Island Lodge ( p243 ), offshore from Musoma Delving into history at the Nyerere Museum ( p242 ) at Butiama lonelyplanet.com LAKE VICTORIA •• Musoma 241 LAKE VICTORIA National Parks & Reserves Rubondo Island National Park, in the south- LAKE VICTORIA FACTS western corner of Lake Victoria, is the region’s Lake Victoria is: only national park. The Serengeti’s Western 68,800 sq km in area, about half of Corridor is covered in the Northern Tanzania which is in Tanzania chapter ( p216 ). To the west of Lake Victoria are several game reserves, including Rumanyika 100m above sea level Orugundu, Ibanda, Burigi and Biharamulo, the world’s second largest freshwater although none are developed for tourism. lake by surface area after Lake Superior in North America Getting There & Around infested with bilharzia in many shore- Mwanza, Musoma and Bukoba all have air- line areas (swimming isn’t recom- ports, and there’s an airstrip on Rubondo mended) Island. Tarmac roads connect Mwanza with inhabited by some of the largest Nile Musoma and the Kenyan border; Mwanza perch in the world with Shinyanga and Nzega; and Biharamulo with Bukoba and on to Mutukula and the Ugandan border. There’s also an unsealed but MUSOMA well-maintained road from Bunda through %028 the Serengeti’s Western Corridor to Seronera. Pretty Musoma – capital of the Mara region – Otherwise, much of the road network is un- sits serenely on the eastern shore of Lake sealed and rough, although roadworks are un- Victoria, in a lovely setting on a peninsula derway at a steady pace. Direct buses run along with both sunrise and sunset views over the the main routes, and ferries connect Mwanza water. With its bustling market, colourful fish- with Bukoba and with Ukerewe Island. ing port and small-town pace, the town makes 0 100 km LAKE VICTORIA 0 60 miles To Kisii UGANDA (15km) Nkurungu Mutukula Migori KENYA ὈὈὈIbanda Rumanyika Kyaka GR Orugundu Isebania GR Bukoba Sirari L A K E V I C T O R I A Lukuba To Narok Tarime (80km); Musoma Nairobi RWANDA Bumbire Nyakanga Ukara Butiama Bologonya B6 Ikorongo Gate Lake Lake GR To Kigali Bisongu Rubondo Ukerewe Kibara- Ὀ(50km) Burigi ὈὈὈBunda ὈὈ Island NP Nansio Kisorya Maisome Kome Gr Burigi ume Mwanza t i Riv Ikoma GR Muganza Itabagumba W er Gate Rusumu Falls Gulf Speke Gulf Ndabaka e s t Biharamulo Kageye Lushamba e r n Ngara GR Mwanza Gate Corridor Benako Kahunda Nyakaliro Bujora Nyamirembe Kabanga Nkome Kamanga Nyanguge Seronera Sengerema Kisesa Serengeti Rulenge Biharamulo Magu Maswa Chato S NP i Busisi m Naabi Hill Kobero Geita Kikongo i Gate Lusahunga B163 y ὈὈὈὈ Ngudu ὈὈὈu Nyankanazi ve r Ri BURUNDI M I s To Ngorongoro o a y n Maswa o Crater (30km) w g B6 GR o a B8 s Ngorongoro i R R Conservation i v i e Area v e B3 r Mwadui Kibondo r Lake ὈὈὈ ShinyangaὈὈὈEyasi Kahama Moyowosi GR Kigosi B6 GR LEGEND Nzega To Kasulu (70km); GR Game Reserve Kigoma (163km) To Tabora B3 To Singida NP National Park ὈὈὈ (121km) (130km).