Nikola Tesla First ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR Museum taste of +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] - faces uncertain Vietnam ISSN 1820-8339 1 future in Belgrade BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1

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Issue No. 235 Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS

Massive city NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: revamp tests party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. Belgraders’ page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W nerves June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

With no end in sight to the multiple page 5 reconstruction projects taking place in central Belgrade, some conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party wonder whether politics – not E traffic considerations – is behind

all the disruption. Friday • June 13 2008 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Milan RADONJIĆ

he construction work in cen- by steel fences, the Oslobođenje Boule- tral Belgrade that began with vard and Slavija Square, with a new the reconstruction of the fountain in the middle of it, form the TSlavija Square in May has ex- epicentre of the deadlock. panded to encompass major parts of Those citizens worst affected by this, the city centre over the summer. of course, taxi drivers. According to local Starting from Branko's Bridge, a num- news daily Blic, they describe the cur- ber of main squares, boulevards and rent situation in one word: catastrophe. streets are now partly or completely “Branko's Bridge in the direction of closed to traffic. New Belgrade – Catastrophe. Gazela Pedestrian routes and public trans- [bridge] in both directions – Catastro- port lines have been diverted, forcing phe. Pančevo Bridge both directions foreign visitors and locals alike to find – Catastrophe,” the paper noted, sum- new pathways through the capital. marizing their fury. Covered in dust, echoing to the sound of heavy machinery, and surrounded Continued on page 2

Traffic jam at Branko´s Bridge. Photo: Beta

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 3 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Continued from page 1 Massive city revamp tests Belgraders’ nerves

Belgraders have to find alternative routes on their way around the city centre. Photo: BIRN/Milan Radonjić VOX POPULI BIRN asked Belgraders how construction works around the capital affects their daily routines.

STEFAN NEBOJŠA MILENA IVANA ILIĆ PETRUŠIĆ ŽIVKOVIĆ DUDIĆ Student Entrepreneur Sales clerk Student and journalist “It is good they are doing some- “Coming from Voždovac, you have construc- “It has had a bit of a depressing effect on me. I thing for the city, but I think it tion sites on every other corner, and the “I would say that it affects my life in the sense just arrived back from vacation yesterday and has lasted for much too long on alternative directions are also blocked. It is that it disturbs a lot of my daily activities. I I am otherwise completely relaxed. I travel the whole.” dilettantism, and it seems to have no end. All think they have started too many things at longer to get to work, I have to disembark The city management has received criticism for building the fountain in Slavija first, only to close it down because of subsequent road construction surrounding it. Photo: BIRN/Milan Radonjić of this should have been finished at least a the same time, without going into the reasons public transport earlier, on Autokomanda, and month ago.” why this occurred the way it did. One doesn’t usually I would have to walk to Slavija. I am have to be traffic engineer, urban planner or walking and telling myself that it will have to elgrade citizens will have “In just over a month, after the work will completely the City authorities felt for the citizens – and architect, to realise that something is wrong be over at some point.” to remain patient, however, in Slavija is finished, we will have a com- transform the Fences are being would have more serious consequences. with the fact that all this work occupied this as the work is not sched- pletely new look in this part of the city image of this “Fences are being put up in streets with time frame.” uled to finish until autumn, and it will all be worth it. It will really part of the put up in streets no regard for how people are going to get City Manager Goran Vesić be something amazing to see,” he told city, which is around them, but what’s even worse is that warned. BIRN. also one of the with no regard much of the work is obviously being done in BHe has urged Belgraders to use public He also said that a significant change to worst for traf- a hurry and is therefore not of a high quality,” transport instead of their own vehicles the original plans – which foresaw build- fic.” for how people he said. and, above all, to avoid the most congested ing pedestrian underpasses underneath “That means it will have to be done again, points of the city. Slavija Square – had been done out of ne- COSMETIC are going to get soon. This absurd waste of time and money "The work on Slavija will be completed cessity: RECOSTRUCTION JOB is just inadmissible.” by November 16th, on the Oslobođenje “Frankly, it would have been best to around them, However, Predrag Mitrović, a foreman Boulevard by October 22nd and on have the underground passages. They However, Zoran Alimpić, former Deputy overseeing the removal of asphalt in Kralja Branko's Bridge by November, and so we would make the traffic flow easier,” he Mayor of Belgrade and opposition councillor but what’s even Milana street, says he and his co-workers are will complete the great project that is now said. in the City Assembly, says the city has made doing a fine job. in progress,” Vesić told Serbia’s national “However, after consulting the planners, a mess of things. worse is that “In Ruzveltova street, we finished our sec- broadcaster RTS in an upbeat tone early in we realized that this would take much more “The City Hall obviously does not oper- tion six days ahead of the deadline, and I be- September. time, and be several times more expensive. ate in a transparent manner, or distribute much of the work lieve we will be ahead here as well,” he said. So, we chose this shorter version. Other- responsibilities properly, so the situation is a “The other groups are also making good CONCERNS THAT POLITICS IS wise, this part of the town would be blocked bit chaotic,” he said. is obviously being progress, too. Belgraders are a bit edgy, it is PLAYING A PART for a full year or even more,” he added. Alimpić said the real problem on Slavija sometimes difficult to get past, or to find a Responding to claims of poor planning Square is managing the heavy flow of traffic, done in a hurry place to park – but we will make it through The opposition, meanwhile, accuses in the work on Slavija, where the fountain and above all the pedestrian traffic, which together.” the city authorities of starting more re- was finished before the rest of the infra- the current project will now not solve. and is therefore Mitrović also noted that the weather is far construction projects than it can handle structure work started, Mladenović said “Slavija is a specific location and a meet- better now, compared to a few weeks back, in order to have a stream of openings this snarl-up reflected the fact that several ing place for seven streets. Without under- not of a high when temperatures hit 40 degrees Celsius. ready for the mayoral elections due in projects linked to the square were inter- ground passages, this is a pure cosmetic However, he also feels officials made a spring 2018. connected. reconstruction that does not deal with the quality” mistake in dumping the plan to build pedes- On August 29th, Deputy Mayor Andrija Work on the rest of the square had to basic problem,” he asserted. trian underpasses in Slavija Square. Mladenović dismissed claims that Bel- wait until some key construction permits Ljubica Slavković, from the “Ne da(vi)mo “We could have done this very well, as we grade has been “blocked” for election came through. “But this is all of secondary Beograd” initiative, which was formed to op- Ljubica Slavković, have plenty experience in this kind of work. campaign purposes, insisting that it was importance,” he insisted. pose the reconstruction of the city’s riverside Ne (da)vimo Beograd It would have been better – but this is what “business as usual”, and appealing to the “Once Slavija is finished, coupled with area, said the decision to start so many pro- they have decided, so this is finally how it is solidarity and patience of the citizens. its park and the Oslobođenje Boulevard, it jects at the same time revealed the contempt going to be,” he said. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Belgrade Nikola Tesla Museum gets ready faces uncertain future for Pride The Nikola Tesla Museum’s Week building must be Violence against LGBT people, the handed over to Pride Week 2017 need to adopt a law on registered part- nerships as well as the need for open the heirs of its pre- is about to kick off and objective reporting of LGBT issues are some of the central themes at this war owners, but on Monday, with year’s Pride Week. The main event, however, as in pre- it’s unclear when the parade at the ceding years, will be the Pride Parade, which is scheduled for the end of Pride plans to rehouse end of the week th Week, on September 17 . it in a derelict on September 17th The parade will start at midday on Cvetni Trg [Square] from where par- power plant will and a whole of ticipants will march to Republic Square – Trg Republika. Nine organizations be realised. are reported to be participating in this other activities in- Photo: Parada Ponosa Beograd year’s march. between. In relation to Pride Week, the first ready for that,” he told the news agency In another attempt, in 2010, the pa- passed off without incident, after -of Pride Info Centre opened in Belgrade Tanjug. rade also went ahead, but again with ficials warned that violence would no on August 29th and will remain open Pride Parade Belgrade [Parada Pono- difficulty. longer be tolerated and after police Milan RADONJIĆ Siri SOLLIE every day until September 25th. sa Beograda] has been the main organ- Thousands of young people on upped their presence, deploying ar- The Program Director of Civil Rights iser of Pride Week since it was estab- that occasion caused mayhem on the moured vehicles and a helicopter to he Nikola Tesla Museum, his year’s Belgrade Pride Defenders for the Western Balkans, lished in 2010. streets, throwing stones and missiles, prevent attacks. the most popular mu- Week, which runs from Goran Miletić, called the opening of the The first-ever Pride Parade went injuring police officers and setting Pride Week 2017 will open with Mirko seum in Belgrade, has to September 11th to the 17th, centre a historic step for Serbia. ahead in Belgrade back in 2001, shortly buildings and vehicles on fire. Ilić’s exhibition, called “Tolerance”, at move from its current lo- offers a varied program, “We expect that, from hiding away after the democratic changes that oust- In 2009, 2011, 2012 and 2013, the Kalemegdan terrace on September 11th cation in Krunska street as including exhibitions, film and only going out on the streets twice ed the regime of Slobodan Milošević. march through the city had to be called at 12am. Tthe building is being given to the legal Tscreenings, literary evenings and, of a year, it will turn into something that However, a large number of right- off after the authorities insisted that For detailed information about the heirs of its pre-war owners as part of the course, a parade through the city cen- is permanent and has no need for hid- wing nationalists disrupted the event, they could not protect the participants. program, visit parada.rs or danubeo- country’s post-Communist reparation Nikola Tesla. Photo: Wikpedia/Unknown tre. ing. We believe Belgrade and Serbia are insulting and attacking the participants. But since then the parades have gradu.rs process. The government has announced “We know is that restitution is on the In the years following 2000, after the a plan to move the museum to a new way, and that is all the official informa- partial and then complete closure of home in an old Bauhaus-style former tion we have been given for now,” Rad- the National Museum for reconstruc- power plant at Marina Dorćol on the mila Adžić, the secretary of the Nikola tion, the Tesla Museum has became right bank of the Danube. Tesla Museum, told BIRN. the most visited institution of its kind in Belgrade reconstructions: Deputy Prime Minister Zorana Belgrade by both locals and foreigners. Mihajlović, leader of the government’s BAUHAUS-STYLE PLANT Jelenković said he hoped the author- coordination group for moving the Te- NOW DERELICT ities would develop the new location sla Museum, promised in August that before closing the Krunska street site to Vračar next in line the whole project should start before The old ‘Power and Light’ thermal the public. December 31st. power plant at Marina Dorćol, or the Old “Bearing in mind our previous ex- But no completion date has yet been Central, as it is known today, opened in perience with the reconstruction of given for the move and the eventual 1932. Built in the Bauhaus style, it was cultural institutions in this country, A green oasis is about to spring reopening of the museum, which cur- designed to improve workers’ condi- and all the things we need to do for the rently gets more than 100,000 visits a tions in terms of ventilation and light. Museum of Nikola Tesla, I hope we are up in the popular Vračar year. It operated for fewer than 30 years, talking about a longer period of time, Concerns have been raised because however, and closed in 1970. It has not perhaps even a decade, until the new Serbian officials have casually missed been use for anything else since. location is finished, operational and neighbourhood as part of a larger such deadlines in the past without con- Today, the area around it is neglect- working,” Jelenković said. sequences, as in October 2015, when ed, covered in weeds and shrubs, lack- Although restitution is necessary, he green city plan. But residents still the reopening of Museum of Contem- ing any of the infrastructure needed to argued that the heirs to Genčić’s villa The current state of the old ‘Power and Light’ thermal power Photo: BIRN/Milan Radonjić porary Art – closed for 10 years – was be even remotely accessible to visitors. should be paid off rather than actually plant at Marina Dorćol, or the Old Central, as it is known today. say they need more information delayed for a second time. The Old Central building itself is haz- being given the building, as has been These concerns are heightened by ardous and entry requires a special per- done in many other restitution cases. “At the same time, all the money was as there is not enough space to present about the project from local the fact that the Tesla Museum project mit and an escort. “We must be careful not to create a spent,” Doknić said. all his work, and also not enough room involves the construction of a com- Belgrade City Manager Goran Vesić, vacuum between an institution that “And that project did not even con- for all the potential visitors it could at- authorities. pletely new institution at a currently a member of coordination group for works perfectly and something that is sider problems like restitution, or mov- tract. abandoned location. monitoring the building of the new good idea, but which will take years to ing any part of the cultural treasure. “The global trend is to move mu- The reparation process, in which the Tesla Museum, has dismissed doubts complete,” he cautioned. Here we have a proposal to move all seums from old buildings and to use Villa Genčić in Krunska street, where caused by the problems facing this “First we have the infrastructure [to of it to a new location that still has to infrastructure objects such as former Siri SOLLIE as a whole is scheduled to last for an- the Tesla Museum has been located huge infrastructure project. build], then the reconstruction of the be brought into use – which makes the railway stations or other more spacious other two to three years. since it opened in 1955, will be handed “We have some 30,000 square me- building, then a new exhibition, which whole thing much more complicated,” locations,” she said. račar Municipality, together Within the framework of the first over to its legal heirs, could also compli- tres of space there which is perfect for will also demand enormous funding,” she added. “So the idea is good – but I am afraid with the City of Belgrade, start- four phases of the project, city man- cate matters. this purpose,” Vesić said. he explained. Doknić admitted that the Tesla Mu- about its realisation, as it could be very ed developing a green area at agement plans to replace the old The government’s choice for a new seum’s present location is inadequate, dangerous to rush into it,” she warned. Vthe intersection of Krunska, premises, reports JKP Gradske Pijace home for the Tesla Museum is a now- MUSEUM’S CURRENT THE NATIONAL Kursulina and Viška streets at the begin- (Belgrade City Markets) on its website. derelict, Bauhaus-style building known LOCATION ‘PRICELESS’ LIBRARY PRECEDENT ning of September. According to local au- The entrance gates along Maksimo as Old Central in Marina Dorćol. It said thorities, it will soon be turned into a park Gorkog and Njegoševa will also be re- it would make the full details public on The villa in Krunska street in which Branka Doknić, a cultural histo- with benches and fountains. stored. September 10th. the museum is currently located, built rian, said that the Old Central building The City of Belgrade has been care- Assistant Mayor Borko Milošavljević Next to the new Tesla Museum, the for the former industrialist and interior would eventually be a good home for ful to state that the changes being stated on September 6th that the area government project also foresees the minister of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, the Tesla Museum. made to the area are merely a con- has been an important public space construction of various other facilities Đorđe Genčić, designed by the architect But she cited the reconstruction of City Manager Goran Vesić at Kalenić Market on September 6th. Photo: Gradska Opština Vračar tinuation of a much larger project, the for decades and bears significance to at Marina Dorćol - a new Centre for the Dragiša Brašovan and completed in 1929, National Library from 2007 to 2011, Kalenić Market, which will modernise, several individuals as a site of happy Daily newspaper Danas published a the investor and contractor, and the criticism, saying that the construction Promotion of Science, a Centre for In- has been named a National Heritage site. which forced this top national institu- with room for underground parking for memories. column on September 6th in which the deadline for the completion of works. site has not been marked by informa- formation Technology, as well as other “The Tesla Museum has become tion to close for four years, as a warning 200 vehicles. “The goal of the [green] project is to author stated that the precise details They say they do not know these de- tion boards because it is “regular main- centres for archaeological research, an immensely recognisable location, sign. Skadarska 32 City Manager Goran Vesić an- return such spaces to our citizens as a of the project remain unknown to the tails. However, the installation of plac- tenance” work and a building permit is digitisation, robotics, microelectronics and today this has a unique and price- In the end, the reconstruction was +381 62 350 002 nounced in August that the first phase new park with green areas, fountains public. ards in the area explaining them is not necessary. and bio-engineering. less cultural value in itself,” Vladimir only partially completed, and the most [email protected] of the Kalenić Market reconstructions and benches, where citizens will be According to the paper, residents mandatory by law. He added that a permit would be Meanwhile, the museum’s employ- Jelenković, the former director of and important part of the job, the protection CREATING YOUR MEMORIES should be finished by the end of the able to enjoy [time with] their loved have directed questions at municipal Later, the same day however, City necessary only in the event that a com- ees say they are still largely in the dark current adviser to the Nikola Tesla Mu- of the books and documents, remains year, while reconstruction of the area ones,” he stated. authorities about the identities of both Manger Goran Vesić responded to the pletely new park was being built. about what is happening. seum, told BIRN. unfinished. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Serbia's Westsplaining economic slowdown the Balkans alarms Donald Trump's wives as a proof of his Two decades closeness to Russia. Clueless celebrities aside, even those after Maria who are familiar with the region oc- experts casionally wade into Balkanist waters. Todorova's book I could not but cringe after reading a than half the 2.5-per-cent growth achieved recent Balkan Insight article by a writer Serbia's economic in the final quarter of 2016. "Imagining the with long term involvement in the region, While such figures were poor, govern- who referred to Serbian men as "mythi- growth has slowed ment officials and many observers -re Balkans", per- cal hairy beasts" while discussing Ser- down this year, mained hopeful that the rest of the year bian women's obsession with make-up. would make up for the lacklustre start – ceptions of the Besides being bad form and intel- statistics show – until the figures for the next quarter were lectually lazy, international Balkan- published, that is. region remain ism unfortunately has real-world and independent The final figures for the second quarter, consequences – condescension and ig- published at the end of August, as said ear- biased. norance trickle down to banal personal experts dispute lier, revealed growth in that quarter of 1.3 interactions. per cent of GDP. Balkanism gives birth to the worst official claims Serbia's newly Prime Minister, Ana type of tourist – the kind who after read- Brnabić, expressed hopes that growth for ing one book and spending a few days that this is mainly the year as a whole might still reach 2.5 per in the region "westsplains" history and due to recent bad cent of GDP, slightly less than the 2.8 per politics to the locals. It also allows oth- cent achieved in 2016. erwise polite people to routinely ask weather. President Vučić,, meanwhile, stuck to young residents whether they hate a claim that growth would still be in the President Vučić has lately devoted far more attention to raising public sector salaries than to economic reform, claims the author. Photo: Beta their neighbours or if their families range of 2.6-2.7 per cent. are in the mafia. Like all stereotypes, it Miloš DAMNJANOVIĆ However, given the economy's current Economists at FREN estimated in their drowns infinite individual nuances and performance, even these modest expecta- GDP growth by quarter, Quarterly Monitor publication that, had it histories with thick, wide brushstrokes. atest data published by the Ser- tions now look unrealistic. not been for the sharp decline in mining, People in the Balkans have to work bian Statistical Office last week To achieve anything close to the growth 2017, year-on-year electricity generation and construction hard to show their part of the world, showed that economic growth rate for 2016, growth would have to accel- [production of which fell by around 5 per despite all of its flaws, is still worthy of in the country in the second erate sharply from now on. cent in Q1 due to cold weather], Serbia's respect and understanding. quarter of 2017 was a modest Following the severe drought that deci- COUNTRY Q1 Q2 growth in Q1 might have been in the range Srđan GARČEVIĆ However, this kind of foreign Balkan- L1.3 per cent of GDP. mated agriculture – and whose effects are of 2-2.5 per cent. ism can be matched and surpassed This meant the economy slowed down yet to be reflected in economic data – there Albania 3.94% - While this would have been more re- wenty years ago, while by that which is perpetuated in the for a second consecutive quarter. Figures seems little basis for any such acceleration. spectable, it would still have placed Serbia the embers of war in Bos- Balkans themselves. Home-grown Bal- for the first quarter, published in June, Bosnia-Herzegovina 2.7% - close to the bottom of the region, ahead nia and Croatia were still kanism is manifested in the regional showed economic growth at 1.2 per cent of BLAME GAME only of Macedonia and Greece. smouldering, Bulgarian vilification of the term "the Balkans". GDP, which was less than half the 2.5-per- Croatia 2.5% 2.8% This should provide worry to Serbia's historian Maria Todorova People insist they belong to "Central cent growth achieved in the final quarter This was still not the end of the bad news policymakers. Tpublished "Imagining the Balkans". Europe" and routinely project negative of 2016. for the Serbian economy, either. Indeed, FREN's researchers have identi- Czech Republic 4.0% 3.4% In this seminal work, she detailed the stereotypes onto their neighbours, with The drip feed of disappointing econom- Official statistics showed that, alongside fied a bigger underlying cause of Serbia's ways in which the Balkans have been whom they share a history and good ic data has seen officials and economic -an the sharp slow-down in growth, there was Greece 0.6% 0.7% weak economic growth. perceived and documented for centu- chunks of their culture. alysts close to them scrambling to justify a steep fall in electricity generation in Q1 of According to them, the share of investment ries both home and aboard – most often Serbian liberal circles regularly be- Serbia's anaemic economic performance. 15 per cent compared to the same quarter Hungary 4.2% - in GDP in Serbia is only around 18 per cent – as a somewhat brutal and uncivilised Scholar Maria Todorova noticed a strong common thread of condescension towards the Balkans and its people, writes the author. Photo: Wikpedia/Unknown moan the "Balkan mentality" as reason Most blamed the summer's record of 2016 – as well as a fall of 6 per cent in pro- well below the regional average of 23 per cent forecourt of Europe. for our ills. Traditionalists often wear the heat wave, codenamed "Lucifer", which duction in the mining sector. Kosovo 3.9% - and far lower than the 25 per cent considered Todorova called this discourse "Bal- Several travelogues from the same Some Balkan states such as Croatia Before Bulgaria joined the open la- stereotype as a badge to excuse machis- brought a heavy drought that decimated Officials and pro-government analysts optimal for steady economic growth. kanism" as homage to Edward Said's era contained racist undercurrents, and Bulgaria have already joined the bour market in 2014, British tabloids mo and jingoism, and heightened tour- agriculture across the region. were quick to claim that the sharp fall in Macedonia 0.0% - Such low rates of investment – both for- "Orientalism" – a term applied to the assessing the rich mix of cultures, lan- EU, with several others waiting in the worked tirelessly to depict their fellow ism means heightened opportunities But other experts insist that drought electricity generation was the result of an eign and domestic – are a reflection in part similarly exotic, highly stylised cover- guages and ethnicities in the region as wings as potential candidates. Mem- Europeans as job-stealing vagabonds. to market the identity via "experiences" alone cannot be held responsible for the unusually harsh winter, which negatively Montenegro 3.2% - of the still unappealing business environ- age of "the East" by scholars, writers and abhorrent. Even when foreign reports bership is often perceived as a mark of Last year, in the run-up to the Brexit such as getting drunk on rakija to humil- marked slow-down of the economy. impacted on generation at key hydroelec- ment in which both local and international artists from "the West". She followed were positive, they stereotyped locals civilisation, and even in non-member referendum, a series of articles alerted iating "safaris" in Roma shanty-towns. tric plants. Poland 4.2% 4.4% businesses in Serbia have to operate. Balkanism's many forms in sources as "noble savages", often falling into states, politicians reiterate EU-friendly UK voters to the implications of EU en- Unfortunately, Balkanism survives REALITY CHECK However, independent economists As the IMF notes in its latest, seventh, re- th ranging from 16 century Venetian "white saviour" narratives. messages of tolerance, stability and largement, routinely suggesting height- because it is too useful. As Herman von have queried such claims. Romania 5.7% - view of Serbia's Stand-By Agreement, SBA, merchant chronicles, to 1990s punditry Even after WWII and heightened progress. Key individuals have raised ened violence. In April 2016, The Sun Keyserling, a German essayist, wrote Both international financial and local of- Analysis published in the Quarterly despite commendable results in stabilising th in the New York Times and 19 century sensitivity about stereotyping entire intrigue in the western media – Edi ran an article about Bosnian EU acces- (paraphrasing Voltaire): "If the Bal- ficials were buoyant about Serbia's growth Monitor, a publication of Serbia's Founda- Serbia 1.2% 1.3% public finances and the financial system, Serbian plays. Although coverage var- nations and peoples, Balkanism per- Rama, the Albanian prime minister, sion with the headline "Don't Let Them kans hadn't existed, they would have prospects in 2017 as recently as May. tion for the Advancement of Economics, Serbia needs to do more to make life easier ied by source nation and time period, sisted. had his doodles hung at the Venice Art In", describing how Bosnia is a breeding been invented". Todorova hypothesised Former Prime Minister, now President, FREN, attributes the sharp decline in min- for businesses. Slovenia 5.1% 4.4% she noticed a strong common thread Todorova pointedly noted that in the Biennale this year, while Ana Brnabić, ground for radicals, with ISIS flags fly- that to foreign Balkanists, the region Aleksandar Vučić, last November predict- ing and electricity generation to poor man- The IMF particularly flagged up the need of condescension towards the Balkans 1990s, one New York Times columnist Serbia's openly gay prime minister be- ing around the country, while showing serves as a canvas onto which to project ed growth of 4 per cent this year, before agement and a lack of investment by one to improve the rule of law and strengthen Slovakia 3.1% 3.3% and its people. somehow forgot about the Holocaust in came a global hot topic in June (amid photos of armed jihadists. one's own preoccupations, whether pov- slightly reducing the figure in December to of Serbia's biggest companies – the state- judicial independence, if Serbia is to be- She identified the Brits as tradition- Western Europe when he admonished accusations of Serbia "pinkwashing" its While The Sun is hardly considered erty, violence or intolerance. Or, it can be 3.5 per cent. owned electricity generator and distribu- come more attractive to investors. Turkey 5.0% - ally least impressed by the Balkans, the Balkans for being the "only place in domestic politics). the epitome of highbrow analysis, used to blanket all aspects of someone's Sharing Vučić's optimism, the European tor, EPS. Whether the government heeds this ad- saying that while the reason was partly Europe" where people could be killed A recent regional tourism boom driv- Balkanist narratives are not limited domestic culture that might be subver- Commission's spring forecast upgraded According to their analysis, electricity vice remains to be seen. President Vučić EU 28 2.4% - geopolitical as the British supported because of events that happened cen- en by cheap flights, accommodation to the gutter press. One article in The sive to the order of the day, that perhaps Serbia's projected growth for 2017 by 0.2 production did not contract because of the has lately devoted far more attention to the Ottoman empire during the Balkan turies ago. and beer hopefully increased familiar- Economist, titled "Fighting and Loot- they don't want to deal with. per cent to 3.2 per cent of GDP. cold weather but because of a lack of coal raising public sector salaries than to eco- wars of independence, Victorian no- As instability plagued the region to- ity. Millions of tourists every year see ing" reviewed a book on Montenegrin Unfortunately, as the cracks start to The European Bank for Reconstruction from EPS's own coalmines. Source: Eurostat; National Statistical Offices nomic reform. tions of "civilisation" also played a role – wards the end of the last century, the that Balkan waiters are no more feral history which left the author wonder- show in the current liberal democratic and Development, EBRD, was similarly The lack of coal from these mines, Meanwhile, early in July, soon after be- themselves rooted in long-held ideas of narrative of the Balkans as intolerant and than those in Spanish towns or British ing whether "fighting and looting were order, from Brexit chaos to Charlottes- optimistic, if somewhat more cautious – meanwhile, was blamed on the failure of ing elected Prime Minister, Brnabić hinted social Darwinism, scientific racism, and violent returned, to the point that US jour- seaside resorts. Diverse local art scenes preordained by history," which the ville, Balkanism might disappear – not revising Serbia's projected 2017 growth EPS to invest in opening up new coalfields devastated farming, blaming this for an- as other countries in Central and Eastern that Serbia might not extend its Agreement colonial superiority. nalist and author Robert Kaplan even lay have annual manifestations in Sarajevo nation's "great-grandfathers had done because the Balkans become more upwards by 0.2 per cent, albeit only to 2.9 on time, as old seams wore out. other round of poor growth figures. Europe. with the IMF, once the current program ex- In the late 19th century, George Ber- the blame for Nazism on the Balkans, de- Film Festval, DokuFest in Prizren and before them and their sons would do "western", but because "the West" real- per cent of GDP. The assertion that the cold had little or However, this claim is also disputed. As the league table above shows, only pires early in 2018. nard Shaw angered Bulgarians with his claring that it was from the southern Slavs the Trumpet Festival in Guča. again". ises it is more "Balkan". The first reality check for such predic- no impact on the fall in electricity gener- This is because the impact of the drought two countries – Greece and Macedonia – The stated reason given for this is that play "Arms and the Man" by depicting that "Hitler learned how to hate so infec- Yet gratuitous references to war, vio- Even in liberal circles, Melania tions came at the start of May, when the ation was supported by the fact that coal has yet to feed through into macroeco- had a lower rate of economic growth than IMF demands often hold back growth. the people as ignorant and borderline tiously". Despite rousing ire among some lence or poverty still characterise vast Trump is subjected to "mail-order Srđan Garčević is a writer and a Serbian Statistical Office published flash and electricity production contracted nomic data. Serbia in the first quarter of 2017. But this appears an ironic complaint, barbaric. Mary Edith Durham, a Brit who scholars of the region, Kaplan's work was swathes of articles about the modern bride" stereotypes due to her Slovenian founder of The Nutshell Times blog. estimates for the first quarter of 2017. fastest in March, long after the freeze This is little consolation, given that one given that it is Serbia's failure to imple- travelled across the region at the turn of influential and widely read in the 1990s. Balkans – especially states which once roots. Most recently, the much-revered These suggested growth of a mere 1 per ended – by 20 and 25 per cent respec- REGIONAL LAGGARD of those countries, Macedonia, was in the ment IMF-sought reforms in the way the 20th century, described Serbs as "ver- Two decades on from both "Imag- constituted the former Yugoslavia. Dame Helen Mirren made comments The opinions expressed in the Com- cent of GDP. tively. throes of a protracted political crisis that public companies like EPS are run that min" and called for all enlightened na- ining the Balkans" and since stability Reports mention violent boorish men about Trump's "dark Slovenian soul" ment section are those of the authors The final figures for the first quarter, Following publication of growth figures Serbia's growth data is even more came to a head during this period. Greece appears to have undermined what was al- tions to rise up against "the Balkan Slav" returned to the region, is there still any and gold-digging women caked in while Joy-Ann Reid, an MSNBC host, only and do not necessarily reflect the published at the start of June, were only for the second quarter in August, officials disappointing when compared to data has been mired in an economic slump for ready an unimpressive level of economic and his "haunted" Christianity. point in discussing Balkanism? makeup. used "Soviet Yugoslav" [sic] heritage of views of BIRN. slightly better, at 1.2 per cent of GDP, less then latched on to the sharp drought that from its immediate neighbours, as well years. growth in 2017. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 9 REGION FACES

Macedonia has become the 'I am a political Casablanca of the Balkans romantic':

27th alongside Gruevski sympathizers, The brief when they physically clashed with MPs Ida Prester on from Zaev's party. diplomatic spat That Serbia's services are active in Macedonia was indirectly confirmed transition between Serbia by Serbian Foreign Minister Ivica Dačić who boasted: "We know what you are and Macedonia doing". If they really know, they are not say- ing. But Zaev is no stranger to the spy- was both a ing business, either. His political stature was elevated in proverbial 2015, when he started releasing secret recordings of incriminating talks be- storm in a tween Gruevski with his inner circle that created a major scandal. teacup – but It is widely believed also that a West- ern intelligence agency, most probably also much more the CIA, helped Zaev in this endeavor. Whether Zaev is in possession of wire- than that. tapped recordings of Gruevski's talks with Vučić as well is not known. However, the Belgrade tabloids claimed loudly that the Macedonians Milan MIŠIĆ were "eavesdropping even on Vučić". These sources frequently mentioned f the definition of diplomacy is the usual suspect, the US ambassador "the management of relations to Skopje, Jess Baily, as the mastermind between countries" in times both in the plot against Serbia and Vučić, good and bad, Serbia and Mac- who – while refusing to name which edonia recently demonstrated foreign power was "involved" in the af- Ithat they are far from mastering this fair – pointedly said on August 22nd: "It ancient craft. certainly isn't Russia". "I liked Belgrade instantly from the first time I came here to play in Klub Akademija, some ten years ago,” Ida Prester says. Photo: BIRN/Milan Radonjić The bizarre diplomatic drama be- It is worth noting in this context that tween the two Balkan neighbours, the Organized Crime and Corruption of chauvinist insults, but because I have children Ten years ago, Ida's Belgrade was one of endless she would like to have more of an impact on social which lasted barely three days, started Reporting Project, OCCRP – a reporting Regional pop star now and I've decided to be more careful as – in a partying, and the city that did not sleep. Today she and cultural policy in both Serbia and Croatia. Un- with brief breaking news on Macedo- platform formed by 40 non-profit inves- way – they share my experiences; they are very enjoys it more during the day – her children mean fortunately, her worldviews are not shared by the nia's TV Telma on August 20th. tigative centres and media – last June Ida Prester talks sensible and delicate beings," she says. that she experiences the city's parks and play- majority in either. This said that the entire Serbian em- shared a collection of leaked secret After moving to Belgrade five years ago, Prester grounds, as opposed to zzzzzzzzzzzzzs, and parties. People in the music industry used to be much bassy in Skopje, from ambassador down documents from Macedonian counter- about her music, married Belgrade entrepreneur and restaurateur Comparing life in Zagreb and Belgrade, Ida says that more active and free thinking, she says. "Now, they to janitor, had been summoned back to intelligence with the UK Guardian that Ivan Peševski, with whom she has two boys. Her back then, Belgrade was far ahead in terms of night- make these statements written for them in ad- Belgrade urgently for consultations. described years of efforts by Russian Balkan paradoxes, new band Maika, composed of musicians local to life. "Belgrade was associated with madness and vance by public relations experts. Popular singers The announcement was shocking, spies and diplomats to stop Macedo- Belgrade is a nice mixture of indie pop and Balkan nonstop fun. And at that time when I first started today are much more calculated, I would say, and since withdrawing all diplomats from nia's political and military integration and life between folk sounds. Recently the group made appearances coming here, there was indeed a big difference," she this is why I call them 'Corporate Stars'." a country often precedes a declaration into the West. at Revolution Festival in Timisoara, Romania, Festi- says. Some 17 years ago in Zagreb, she was a member of war. Skopje today in many ways has be- Zagreb, where val 9 in Belgrade and Exit in Novi Sad. "Zagreb was very sleepy, and Belgrade was quite of the Young European Federalists, and told BIRN In the event, however, Serbia's move come the new Balkan Casablanca, re- "Regrettably, after the glorious period of the the opposite. Today there is still this distinction, as she is sorry to see the troubles European Union is was more of a storm in a teacup. calling the old World War II spy hub in she grew up, and 1980s in the former Yugoslavia, indie pop almost Belgrade is twice the size, but Zagreb is catching up, going through. "It will be very tough for the EU to Serbia' only explanation for the dras- North Africa. became extinct here. Those who still produce it are and becoming more alive and exciting. But there sustain [itself in the face of] the pressure it has been tic move was a statement referring That the latest Serbia-Macedonia af- her new home marginalised, and almost anonymous," she says. was always this kind of fascination with Belgrade, exposed to by the migrant wave and other crises, to "evidence of offensive intelligence fair quickly had a happy ending shows with its relaxed but wild spirit. Here people are especially after Brexit. I think it is shameful to see actions" taken by Macedonia's secret that at least one side miscalculated, and Belgrade. BEST AND WORST IN PEOPLE very direct, very loud. Zagreb is a bit more disci- how the so-called 'developed world' has left Europe services against the Serbian diplomats that both sides decided they a mutual plined, more distanced, and Belgrade is more like, to face this humanitarian catastrophe all alone." and "against the institutions of Serbia". interest in applying the brakes. Milan RADONJIĆ Her latest single River Sava has been garnering 'give me everything, and do it now!'" "This takes me back to my previous point, that I The pro-government media in Serbia Zaev did so for the sake of maintain- interest from audiences in Romania and other am a political romantic. We can share some status suggested that the target of the Mace- ing his priority: resolving the dispute da Prester has been a regional music star, neighbouring countries, as well as Serbia and A POLITICAL IDEALIST? on social networks, speak our mind freely, but we donian secret services had been Serbi- with Greece over Macedonia's name in TV host and was – in the past – a prominent Croatia. should not indulge ourselves in illusions that we an President Aleksandar Vučić himself. order to obtain NATO membership and member of the alternative scene in Zagreb. "I believe this is something coming from this re- Defining herself as a political person, Ida says can change the world through them. It takes much As in many a similar situation in the make progress on EU accession. However, for five years Ida Prester has also gion that could also be interesting for the European more time." past, "the involvement of a foreign pow- Escalating a dispute with Serbia would been a Belgrader. With thousands of follow- market," she says. "The texts all spring from my er" was thrown in as well. be counterproductive in this regard, Iers on social networks, her posts instantly become personal experience, and they are not intended to The Macedonian side kept its cool, which is why he even promised that Mac- headlines in leading Croatian and Serbian main- be provocative by design. Instead, it is Balkans as I however. "When there are open and sen- edonia would abstain from the next vote stream media outlets. see it, conflicting and controversial, a place where sitive questions with two of our neigh- on Kosovo's UNESCO application. These days, she is more cautious assessing the you can find the best and worst, the greatest human bours, the Macedonian government al- As for the Serbian President, perhaps potential impact of her messages. warmth and the deepest darkness." ways follows the interest of the country," he realised that overreacting in this "There are people whom I trust and who in a She draws parallels with the River Sava, noting it said in a statement. case would damage his image of Serbia way create my own opinions about certain things, the contradictions it embodies. "Modernity and [The other neighbour, of course, is as the great "factor of peace and stabil- and I know that I can also form the opinions of traditionalism, progressiveness and patriarchy. Kosovo, the former province of Serbia ity" in the Balkans. others. But, as time goes by I tend to be more pru- It was not made for any particular audience but whose independence Macedonia long Macedonian PM Zoran Zaev met a delegation from the Serbian opposition Democratic Party, led by its Photo: Beta However, some of the opposition dent about it ... your life gets influenced a lot by the as a kind of audio documentary storytelling," she president Dragan Šutanovac, on August 31st in Skopje. ago recognized, much to the ire of Ser- media in Serbia have noted that his sin- people you do not know personally. So I tend to be says. bia.] Reportedly, they had something to drastic move, but the whole affair gen- inconclusive elections in last Decem- gular role in resolving so many crises in more restrictive now about personal stances that I "My very first 'appearance' was at Midnight Mass A day later, on Tuesday, the situation do with Kosovo, and with Macedonia erated much speculation and was re- ber led to a six-month political crisis, region might well confirm suspicions share via social networks," Prester tells BIRN. (Christmas) in the Church of Saint Blaise in Zagreb, calmed down with the announcement supporting Kosovo's bid to join UNE- vealing on its own way. after it become clear that Macedonia's about his involvement in generating While Prester understands that people in the where I played the Virgin Mary. Only a few weeks Facial teatments that President Vučić would have a tel- SCO – a move that Belgrade strenuously What it proved is that the changing long-lasting prime minister, Nikola them in the first place. Balkans can be emotional about their identity, she later, we were introduced to the Pioneers, where I ephone conversation with Macedonia's opposes. geopolitical dynamics of the Balkans are Gruevski, would not be able to form a says she doesn't want to burn herself out fighting also had a solo part in a festive event. So, I always Anti age teatments new Prime Minister, Zoran Zaev, on What ensued was a quick U-turn: making Serbia nervous: her insistence new government with the help of the "windmills," as she terms them. Looking at her Fa- played on two stages, even as a kid," she admits Wednesday – their first. a friendly meeting of the two foreign on remaining politically and militarily political leaders of Macedonia's cebook profile it is easy to spot what she's talking with a disarming smile. Massage and Spa Body treatments The call went through and resulted ministers in the southern Serbian city neutral between the West and Russia is Albanian minority, who this time sid- Milan Mišić is the former editor-in- about. While she has plenty of supportive fans, Manicure and Pedicure in a five-point agreement whose main of Niš, the return of the Serbian diplo- getting more and more tenuous. ed with the leader of the Social Demo- chief of Politika (2001-2005) and was there are also some persistent "followers" who fre- COMPARING ZAGREB point was that "Serbia and Macedonia mats to Skopje, These changes started with Monte- crat opposition, Zoran Zaev. Politika's correspondent in New Delhi, quently post hate messages. TO BELGRADE will resolve any possible disagree- Prime Minister Zaev's reception of negro joining NATO and with a notice- Serbia for sure wanted the more Tokyo and Washington. ments in their mutual relations exclu- the Serbian ambassador – and a mes- able rush in Macedonia, after the gov- pro-Russian Gruevski to stay in office. WHERE INDIE POP "I liked Belgrade instantly from the first time I sively through dialogue". sage that Macedonia and Serbia were ernment there changed in May, to do What generated further discord with The opinions expressed in the com- MEETS BALKAN FOLK came here to play in Klub Akademija, some ten BEAUTY SALON ON VRACAR IN THE HEART OF BELGRADE What was peculiar about all this is "sincere friends" once again. the same. Macedonia was a Serbian diplomat ments section are those of the authors years ago. We went out a lot, and somehow I knew Kneginje Zorke 96, Tel/011 308 7824; 060 0700868 that there was no official mention of the Neither side, obviously, wanted to Relations between Belgrade and and alleged spy being seen entering only and do not necessarily reflect the "I have become more thoughtful about what back then, that if everything went well, I would live www.esteticmoments.rs reasons for the diplomatic drama. dig deeper into the reasons for Serbia's Skopje become tense after Macedonia's the Macedonian parliament on April views of BIRN. stances I make public, not only because I am tired in the city for at least a period of my life." 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Wishful drinking - wine list reviews Corner Wine

It always begins with a simple question: 'Can you bring me the wine list'? Everything else that follows is a complex matter, and cannot be measured only by how much is left in the bottle after dinner.

Pavle GOLICIN

elgrade has been waiting for its first Vietnamese restaurant for quite some The town fountain, which is made to sprout endless light "ružica" wine, which is made from Prokupac grapes. Photo: Župska Berba Btime. And now, it has finally arrived! Restaurant Istok – mean- Istok is definitely worth a visit, write the authors. Photos: Courtesy of Istok ing The East in Serbian – recently opened in the central Dorćol neigh- bourhood amid cosy surroundings. I initially had low expectations of the potential authenticity of the Wine lovers' paradise in ingredients and their preparation, yet I remained eager to pay a visit to First taste of Istok, as the food scene in Belgrade lacks a wide variety of international restaurants such as this. Several vibrant Župa region new places have opened over the Vietnam in Belgrade past couple of years, but the restau- rants themselves fall short in terms Wine fountains, Srdjan GARČEVIĆ est wine region in the country. The most wine festivals in Serbia – Župska Berba, in a more peaceful atmosphere. Vino of fresh ideas and concepts. ple of Vietnam’s best. The spicy and famous autochthonous grape variety which will have its 54th iteration from Sep- Budimir has become very popular for its The wine list in Istok is narrow. Belgrade’s first sour kimchi brought out the earthy fla- grape-stomping he central Serbian town of grown in Župa is prokupac, which hails tember 21st-24th. robust reds and tamjanika-based whites. The restaurant stocks a dozen vors of this dish well. Aleksandrovac and its sur- from nearby Prokuplje, and is made into If you are put off by the snobbery at- Radenković has both a vineyard in Župa labels, as well as house wine pro- Vietnamese Istok’s kimchi, a traditional, spicy Ko- vided by the local Quet winery (an and open air rounding region of Župa a light, fruity red wine or combined with tached to wine festivals, worry not. Be- and another in Biserno Ostrvo, Vojvodina rean fermented cabbage dish, was ac- offshoot of the ‘Fruškogorski Vino- restaurant is have been synonymous more robust merlot and cabernet. An- sides showcasing the best of local wine (north of Novi Sad), which are both worth gradi’ producer). Only four wines tually the true star of this show. We had concerts bring with wine for a very long other local specialty is tamjanika grape, production, Berba ("the harvest") is essen- a visit. Do note that if you are planning a are foreign and six in total are avail- some with udon noodles and more as a Ttime. Indeed, the town's first mention in which is normally made into a popular tially still a run-of-the-mill Aleksandrovac tour, you should contact the wineries be- able by the glass. Although there are the perfect side dish, and we still left craving it. Serbia's main 1196 in a proclamation by the founder dry white. town fair. Of course, you can still discuss forehand to arrange a visit. some nice examples, more depth to We ended our meal with a single of the Serbian Nemanjić royal dynasty, After WWII, Vino Župa, a state-owned the terroir and bouquets with throngs of Between wine tastings, you can visit the the list should have been given. For opportunity sweet bite – a chocolate chilli truffle. a restaurant serving Vietnamese wine-producing Stefan Nemanja, bequeathed the region winery, took over Aleksandrovac's vine- small producers lining the streets, but you wine museum located in the old agricul- It was delicious: strong, rich and but- cuisine, I expected the wine list to to broaden and its wine to Studenica Monastery. yards. Independent wineries were closed will probably be distracted by the multi- tural school or take a peek inside the histo- be more complementary towards tery, served with a mint leaf for a hint region to Throughout medieval times Župa pro- and wine producers could only sell tude of youths in national dress dancing ry museum, which has valuable prehistor- Asian food, such as Rieslings or of freshness and with a delicate spicy duced wines for the Serbian aristocracy their produce to family and neighbours. kolo around you to the blaring trumpets. ic collection, including female terracotta Pinot Grigios, to name a few. your culinary aftertaste. This item, while not specifi- life every and clergy, however its winemaking his- Most of the grape production went into Much of the merriment at Berba is idols. History enthusiasts should also pay Given the apparent absence cally Vietnamese, was on point. tory probably stretches back for at least mediocre mass market wine which led fuelled by the festival's centrepiece: the a visit to the Koznik fortress. Built in 15th of appropriate wine, I picked a horizons – but The staff were polite, yet relaxed and September. another millennium, and possibly all the to Aleksandrovac boasting the world's town fountain which is made to sprout century to stop the Ottoman invasion, comfortable beer instead, in order friendly at all times, in line with the to complement the cuisine. I was way to the time when the region was in- largest wine cistern (5,600,000 litres of endless light "ružica" wine made from the fortress is one of the best-preserved its present lack venue itself. delighted to find the Supernova th habited by the Celts in the 6 century BC. good stuff). Once the wine market liber- prokupac grapes. Besides the fountain, in Serbia and offers dramatic views over IPA by local craft brewery Kabinet Istok is a small place, very new and Located about four hours drive south alised, many family wineries resurfaced highlights also include grape stomping central Serbia. Finally, if you feel your liver (recently reviewed in a BG article of competition still maturing. Nevertheless, it is pleas- of Belgrade, on hills marking the begin- and started producing great, innovative and Serbian pop and ethno music con- needs a rest after the visit to the Berba, about Endorfin bar), stocked in the ant and relaxed, with affordable prices. ning of the Kopaonik mountain range, wines. certs. Aleksandrovac is also conveniently close restaurant. might hinder lunch in a small, pleasant garden on the dull. However, the addition of (what we Being one of a kind is always a testament Aleksandrovac's more gentle peaks and Although few winemaker and drinkers While in Aleksandrovac, wine enthusi- to Kopaonik, Serbia's most popular moun- The mark-up at Istok is slightly pavement. think was) deep-fried fish skin was a to courage – that alone is worth respect, troughs are covered with around 3,000 fondly remember the socialist days, Vino asts should also try to visit some of Župa's tain resort, where you can go for bracing above average for this kind of estab- any impetus to We started with two staple Viet- nice detail. and Istok is definitely worth a visit. lishment. The service is extremely hectares of vineyards, making it the larg- Župa still started one of the most famous many independent wineries for tastings walks and fresh mountain air to recover. namese dishes: wontons and Pho Ga. Duck with rice noodles, vegetables However, we hope that this doesn’t friendly, but occasionally comes improve. across as disorganised. Wontons, known as Asian ravioli, are and mango in oyster and citrus sauce work as a disadvantage. Without com- Without a doubt, Istok is a nice large dumplings, filled with a mixture of also fell short of expectations. Again, petition it may not seek to improve addition to the restaurant scene in oyster mushrooms, chicken, chilli and the caramelised vegetables (onions, itself, and we would love to see it fine- Belgrade and it’s by all means worth Duda&Vlada sesame oil. They were steamed (and carrots, leeks, green beens, sweet red tune some of its dishes. The potential is a visit. However, there is still much also served) in a traditional bamboo pepper) bordered on stewed … and there, undoubtedly. room for improvement, especially ietnamese cuisine is of- basket, which contributed to the subtle didn’t seem to fit with the theme. in terms of providing authentic ten praised worldwide flavor. However, our wontons did not Pork belly udon noodles in a shiitake ISTOK drinks and a fuller wine list, which would allow for the possibility to as one of the healthiest. fully meet our expectations – the rice- mushroom sauce, served with kimchi, Address: Gospodar Jevremova 50 combine flavours more intricately. Utilising several fresh dough envelopes were a little chewy was delicious. An interesting, complex Phone: +381 11 3281360 All in all, I can only hope that ingredients –meat, fish, (gumirana) and the filling too dry. yet balanced mixture of crispy meat Price Guide: 1500-2000 dinars more new Asian restaurants such Vvegetables and herbs – it mixes them Pho Ga is a another famous national and peanuts, with fresh spring onions [about €13 – €18] per person for three as Istok will be established, giving into balanced and finely spiced meals. dish. The rich soup contains chicken, and bamboo sprouts was a true exam- courses without drinks more vibrancy to the food scene in After enjoying Vietnamese food at rice noodles, vegetables and bamboo Belgrade. restaurants across Europe, we were sprouts, sprinkled with chopped spring ~ ~ ~ thrilled to learn that we don’t have to onions and coriander leaves. The beau- ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ travel far to taste its fine flavours. This ty of this dish is in the complex balance ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” significant contribution to our capital’s between the the fresh and the cooked, RESTAURANT KOVAČ Basic Info Rating restaurant record was made by a small the meat and the vegetables, the sweet, modern ethno restaurant and simple place, called Istok (literally, sour and spicy. Istok’s version delivered The East) in the upper Dorćol neighbor- that balance indeed. You can choose Overall AVERAGE hood. between a full portion as a main dish, Wine selection AVERAGE A minimalist facade encloses a sim- or (as we did) a half-portion as a starter. Wine service N\A ple yet stylish interior. Natural wood Com Hai San – seafood rice with Wine pricing €13 - €34 is deftly combined with more modern prawns, squid, garlic and spring onions black metal. Myraid irregularly-placed in a spicy yet sour sauce of lemongrass traditional, colorful Vietnamese paper and chilli – was somewhat disappoint- Wine and AVERAGE lamps are a prominent detail, marking ing. The ingredients were right, but Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com food pairing the place inside and out. We had our the dish was overdone and therefore 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

‘Thorn OPERA, BALLET Rose Garden' AND CLASSICAL BING exhibit at ULUS

th ULUS Gallery will exhibit SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 10 the work of Sarajevo art- Concert: Chamber music, accordion

AND LIVE MUSIC ist Selma Đulizarević- quintet, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Arts in brief Arts in brief Karanović until Septem- Studentski Trg 5, 11am th ber 19 . ‘Thorn Rose WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 13th FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 8th • Friday Machine – Dj Park SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 10th Garden' will see the artist and Ride, TAG, Ušće bb, 11pm and associate profes- Concert: Piano trio, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm • Girls, Boys and Toys, • House – Dooshan, • Matinee, DJ Vuk sor at the University of BitefArtCafé summer stage, Shake’n’Shake, Ušće bb, 10pm Smiljanić, Nexie & Nenad Arts in Belgrade explore THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 14th Kalemegdan, 11pm • Calavera & Manya & Think, Jovanović, Lasta, Sajamski the theme of "bloom- ing" and is divided into Concert: RTS Symphony Orchestra, Ilija • Rain Dogs, Elektropionir, Ben Akiba raspust, Brodarska kej bb, 5pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, TRA T T O R I A three sections: drawings, 8pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm bb, 9pm • Sunset Event, Shake’n’Shake, costumes and scenog- PIZZER I A th • Anđelka Simić & Band, Jazz • Banda Panda & Mangulica Ušće bb, 5pm raphy. ULUS Gallery is SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 16 Garden, Karađorđeva 43, 9pm FM, 20/44, Ušće bb, 11pm • Sunday Beat, Hot Mess, Ušće located at Mali Kalemeg- Concert: Marija Timotijević, piano, • Apgrade Weekend, Sven • Kapetan Esid, Zaokret, bb, 11pm dan 1A. Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm Vath, Solomun, Trench Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Benakiba Selebrejšn Nebojsina 8 below Military Museum, Najt, Ben Akiba Raspust, 011/3863-999 ‘Lady and the Concert: Olivera Radmanović, piano, [email protected] Unicorn – My Student Cultural Centre (SKC), Kralja Milana Kalemegdan Fortress, SATURDAY Brodarska bb, 7pm www.restoranamici.rs Story' at Museum 48, 8pm 7-9.9.2017, 11pm SEPTEMBER 9th • Belgrade Afterhours | of Applied Arts WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 20th • Dj Peppe, Miloš Starčević & Mancha & Mark Panic Dee, Lasta, Sajamski kej bb, • Džez za Dž (Jazz for free) (Open Air), KPTM, Žorža 20 years after her first Concert: Igor Dražević, piano, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm 10pm Miloš Čolović Trio, Dom Klemansoa 22, 4am exhibition about love, 150th anniversary of restoration Omladine, Makedonska 22, • Daily Brooka B-Day RAVE, Nena Skoko Snežana of Church Ruzica, Ilija M. Kolarac 1pm KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa 22, is back with another Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm manifestation of her life's • Betty Boom, BitefArtCafé, 5pm THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 21st greatest motivation. The summer stage, Kalemegdan, • Thomas Jackson • Immolation, Melechesh, exhibition ‘Lady and the Concert: Belgrade Philharmonic 11pm MONDAY SEPTEMBER 11th Orchestra - Pandemonium 1, Studentski (Argentina/Mexico), Azarath, Dom Omladine, Unicorn – My Story' will • S.T.R.A.H, Petar Pan, Trg 11, 7pm GRAD Cultural Centre, Makedonska 22, 8pm be open until September Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • RnB Night – DJ Moooka, Hot 28th at the Museum of Braće Krsmanovića 4, 10pm • “Spicy jazz” with Belgrade Applied Arts on Vuka EXHIBITIONS • Apgrade Weekend, Mess, Ušće bb, 10pm • Easy Tiger, Disco Splav Jazz Trio, Jazz Garden Karadžića Street 18. AND EVENTS Solomun, Sven Vath, Trench Sloboda, Sajamski kej bb, Karađorđeva 43, 9pm below Military Museum, WEDNESDAY 11pm Cirkobalkana th th FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 8 Kalemegdan Fortress, SEPTEMBER 13 MONDAY SEPTEMBER 18th circus festival FREE COPY 7-9.9.2017, 11pm SATURDAY comes to town Exhibition: “Thorn Rose Garden” Selma • Matt Nash, Barutana, • Jazz Garden, Nemanja SEPTEMBER 16th • Arch Enemy, Dom Omladine, Đulizarević Karanović, ULUS Gallery (Association of Fine Artists of Serbia),10am Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. th Kalemegdan, 11pm Banović trio, Karađorđeva Makedonska 22, 7.30pm The 5 annual Inter- Exhibition: “Lady and Unicorn/My Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Dj Dooshan, Oysha & Goran 43, 9pm • Red Snapper, Dom • RnB Night – DJ Moooka, Hot national Contemporary Story”, Nena Skoko Snežana, Museum of Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Circus Festival, Cirkob- Applied Arts, Vuka Karadžića 18, 11am Starčević, Lasta, Sajamski • Wednesday Nineties, Tag, Omladine, Makedonska 22, Mess, Ušće bb, 10pm Exhibition: “Neur-o-matic”, Lenka Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić 9pm alkana, will be held this Đorojević and Matej Stupica, Gallery U10, BIRN editorial team: kej bb Ušće bb, 11pm • Supernaut, Elektropionir, TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 19th year from September Kosovske Devojke 3, 1pm Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, • Get low summer vibes – Dj • REACT 2 Promo Party with 11th-17th in Belgrade, Pančevo Film Festival, Pančevo, various Cetinjska 15, 10pm David Lynch's photography is essentially exactly what you would imagine it to be; Photo: Belgrade Cultural Centre venues [email protected] Architect, TAG, Ušće Kalden Bess, KPTM, Žorža after which it will hit the spooky and disturbing, with a warm, melancholic, almost comforting sentiment. • Jazz Garden, Jovan • Freestyler, Nineties, Ušće bb, Sales & Marketing: Marija • Commercial house – DJ Klemansoa 22, 5pm road and head to Zagreb. SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 9th Petrović Vuk, Shake’n’Shake, Ušće bb, • Drill Soirée GRAD Cuktural Maljoković Sekstet, 10pm The event will be take Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Karađorđeva 43, 9pm Exhibition: “Small Stories - David Keith 10pm Centre, Braće Krsmanovića place at Stara Ciglana in Lynch”, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Knez [email protected] • Blinder, Zenker Brother WEDNESDAY • Cherry on Top, Hot Mess, 4, 8pm the Višnjička Banja city David Lynch Mihajlova 6, 1pm Subscription & Distribution: & Regen, Barutana, SEPTEMBER 20th neighbourhood. Expect Ušće bb, 10pm th Goran Knezevic Kalemegdan all types of performances SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 10 th +381 11 4030 303 • Benakiba Selebrejšn Najt, FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 15 • Nemanja Banović Trio, Jazz for young and old alike. photo exhibit opened Exhibition: “Man cannot survive alone” BenAkiba Raspust, Brodarska [email protected] SUNDAY Garden Karađorđeva 43, 9pm Nyimpa Kor Ndzidzi, Museum of African Art, Andre Nikolića 14, 11am bb, 9pm • Deaf Radio, Elektropionir, SEPTEMBER 17th • Shake n Shake, Cherry on top, Free jazz concerts Printing: POLITIKA štamparija Book Flea Market, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 4pm • PARTY at Four | John Belk, Cetinjska 15, 8pm Ušće bb, 10pm at Dom Omladine in Belgrade d.o.o. th Nexie b2b Iva Arifaj at • GISTRO POP, GRAD Cultural • Sting, Kombak Arena, MONDAY SEPTEMBER 11 ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight In an effort to introduce KPTM (Open Air), KPTM, Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, Bulevar Arsenija THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 21st COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Belgrade's contempo- Exhibition: “Science Through Žorža Klemensoa 22, 4am 8pm Čarnojevića 58, 8pm pean House of Photography and Item In many ways, David Lynch's pho- Entertainment”, exhibition and Circulation: 4,000 rary jazz artists to new A presentation Editions Gallery – both of which are tography is essentially exactly what workshop for children, Serbian Academy • WAR [Bristol.UK] | Metnem • Modular Journey w/Regal, • The Discussion /US/ & • Mish Mash’s Session, audiences and increase French. you would imagine it to be; spooky and of Sciences and Arts Gallery, Knez Mihajlova 35, 6pm label night, KPTM, Žorža Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Lednik, Elektropionir, GRAD Cultural Centre, Braće its accessibility, Dom of the cult direc- Lynch has clearly been actively in- disturbing, with a warm, melancholic, Delicatessen Monday: Belgrade pride, Klemansoa 22, 11pm Stefana 115, 11pm Cetinjska 15, 8PM Krsmanović 4, 8pm Omladine will be organis- volved in picking the specific venues almost comforting sentiment, as if they GRAD Cultural Centre, Bra ing free jazz concerts all tor's photographic displaying his photographs worldwide fell from an unrecognisable time and e Krsmanovića 4, 7pm month. The events will be – he allegedly insisted that they only be place that you cannot help but feel nos- works has opened TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 12th held every Saturday from shown at one venue in Serbia. To make talgia for nonetheless. ORDER DELIVERY TO 1pm in the venues small in the Serbian things even more exclusive, the exhi- In this particular exhibition, the audi- “Serbian Film for Foreigners - Practical YOUR DOOR and large halls. bition will not be displayed anywhere ence will see a selection of 56 of Lynch's guide through Belgrade with singing Find your copy of capital – the only else in the region – at least according to photographs, shot almost exclusively and crying”, GRAD Cultural Centre, Braće +381 11 4030 303 Krsmanovića 4, 8pm [email protected] Analogue the centre. on 35mm black and white film. Belgrade Insight here: media-art event of its kind in The city has been expecting the ex- Lynch clearly imagined his Small Sto- WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 13th www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight hibition to be a massive hit. Lynch has ries just the way they sound by the title. installation at the Balkans. Conference: “Homosexuality and U10 always been immensely popular in They could be tiny fragments of any- Serbia and this new project will also one's life –his life, your life or someone mental diseases – short history of “antipsychiatry”, GRAD Cultural Centre, feature a series of lectures, screen- else' life – it doesn't really matter who MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL The U10 art space will Brace Krsmanovića 4, 7pm ings, discussions and workshops, all these stories belong to … yet somehow Cinema: Music film Festival “Parallel Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla host an exhibition by the Visions”, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar David GALIĆ centred around Lynch and his body they resonate on a personal level any- Address: Address: Temišvarska 19 Pupina 10v artists Lenka Đorojević 9pm Mihajla Pupina 85A of work. It is also a timely way to mark way. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA and Matej Stupica, Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA ult director David Lynch's the new episodes of cult series Twin Big Lynch fans will easily recognise THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 14th entitled ‘Neur-o-matic', SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 visual masterpieces and Peaks, which finished airing a few days a motif or two from early films, such as , BelExpo Centar, Španskih HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 an analogue media-art ethereal, unsettling dream beforehand. Eraserhead, and it is easy to draw com- Coffee Festival SERBIA installation of 12 identi- worlds traditionally cap- Lynch's visual style is highly recog- parisons and connections between Boraca 74 ,10am Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac Exhibition: “Landscape” Cultural Centre Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD cal working environ- tured for film and televi- nisable. Cryptic and surreal, the visual these photographs and Lynch's overall Studentski Grad, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića CAFE SNEŽANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE ment situations that will Csion are taking on a different iteration qualities of his films are usually as aesthetics and philosophy. But even 179, 7pm Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 partially auto-destruct in Belgrade this month. A new Lynch major a component as the script. His if you're just a casual fan who once Exibition: “Academics Artists” Gallery Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 FOR DANCE www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade over the duration of the photo exhibit opened on September 1st, keen eye is always on the lookout for caught a half dozen Twin Peaks epi- RTS, Takovska 10, 7pm KOLARAC Address: Kolarčeva 3 exhibition. The gallery showcasing his versatility as a cinemat- the abnormal and the uncanny, or any- sodes on TV or Mulholland Drive once, th Address: Studentski trg 5 BISTRO BAR FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarčeva 7 is located at Kosovske ographic master. thing that can lead the viewer to ques- you might enjoy this exhibition delving FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 15 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Aerodrom pult The exhibition, Small Stories, (Male tion whether the world is a nightmare that much more deeply into his crea- Devojke street 3 and Exhibition: “Gold Digger” Biljana HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 Priče) was organised by the Kulturni being acted out as they sleep, some tive genius even more. SKVER 44 the exhibition closes on Damjanović, Arstikum Center, Resavska Address: Kneza Miloša 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL rd Centar Beograda (Belgrade Cultural higher state of consciousness, or an al- The exhibition will be on display un- Address: Požeška 44a September 23 . 78, 7pm Address: Knez Mihailova 4 Centre) and was produced by the Euro- legory. til September 30th. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 15 GOING OUT NOW AND THEN Brod Brod Rajićeva shopping centre Hala at Belgrade Port just off Brankov While the name Bridge, or from the Dorćol side of the Danube quay. You can also reach it to open after ‘historical’ and location from Kalemegdan, of course, since it's located right across the street from the are both slightly lower level of the fortress park. Brod Brod is also very clearly headaches generic, Brod marked, with its name emblazoned in almost clinically large and bright white Brod is well- letters. One of the most striking things about located, low-key, the place is its size. Brod Brod has two inventive and levels, each with a different "vibe". The upper deck is designed primarily for friendly to all. busy nights, which, in Belgrade, means Thursday through Sunday (and some- David GALIĆ times even on Wednesday). There is a large bar in the centre of the room, and he owners of this rela- there is plenty of room to sit, including tively fresh addition to the both regular chairs and bar stools. Of riverside scene, Brod Brod, course, the owners made sure to leave might not have had many enough room for dancing in this area as strong ideas for a great well. Tname (Brod Brod translates roughly as The lower deck, which is not closed Boat Boat), but thankfully the concept and also offers a stunning vista of the of the bar and itself are far more inter- river, accommodates a more laid-back esting. setting, with comfy soft chairs arranged Brod Brod is definitely not some- around coffee tables. This is an ideal at- where on the Belgrade rivers that im- mosphere for those days when you're mediately springs to mind in terms of just looking for a peaceful riverside oa- summertime nightlife; the city has no sis to have a cup of coffee or perhaps an shortage of places on the water. Yet, after work-drink or two with a friend. Brod Brod is quite new and may yet There are also hammocks and beach Brod Brod has two levels, each offers a different "vibe". Photo: Facebook/Brod Brod make a name for itself. chairs for maximum summertime re- Neither is it one of those places you'll laxation. On certain nights, you can even see other places located along the river. – Brod Brod is a perfect for all these ac- Rajićeva Street shopping mall will open its doors on September 14th. Photo: Srđan Garčević The library at the end of Knez Mihajlova street during the 1940s. Photo: Wikipedia/Unknown hear hearing about in a standard Best of There is always a bit of breeze here, a live band doing covers of various The selection of drinks is rather basic, tivities and more. Belgrade or Where to party in the city? perfect for hot, insufferably humid pop hits, so if that's your scene, then with a few exceptions in the beer and It's not the hottest, hippest or cool- feature, but its low-key nature definitely summer days, which seem to have you just might have found the perfect rakija department. The staff are very est bar/ in town, but just like the name, works in its favour. Brod Brod is all-in- been getting more and more common place. friendly and it's one of those places it might not be that original, but it's a Belgrade’s Srđjan GARČEVIĆ issue standing in the path of construction. The who used to own “Srpski Kralj”, successfully one: it's a bar, a and even a restaurant. in Belgrade in recent years. As already mentioned, in addition to that's casual and relaxed enough to playful, unpretentious and fun place to Constitutional Court had to opine on the legality blocked the construction and this plot of land It is open almost 24/7 and caters to all On weekends, Brod Brod gets very being a bar and a , Brod Brod is a restau- not have to employ any security staff hang out in Belgrade. most central ourteen years since the start of its of its privatisation. remains undeveloped. sorts of different crowds and audienc- busy, mostly with mainstream music rant. The food ranges in quality from up front, at least for the time being. The construction, the Rajićeva Street shop- History soon bit back again, as the heirs of As if the old Belgrade families weren’t enough, es. (commercial house and light techno), decent to good, depending on what patrons are equally pleasant and the shopping mall ping mall, located in the very heart of owners of buildings which were destroyed in it was the Romans who provided investors Located on an actual boat, its envi- as well as current mainstream pop and you order. The menu features all the crowd is safe with plenty of variety as Belgrade, will finally open on Septem- the Nazi bombing tried to exercise their rights with another headache. As Knez Mihailova and ronment is stunning and offers amaz- RnB hits providing the soundtrack. bar food basics – salads, platters, crepes, far as age is concerned. is set to open ber 14th. over the land on which the complex was set to Uzun Mirkova were ancient Singidunum’s main ing views of both the Kalemegdan For- Brod Brod is not the best place for hard- wraps, but there are also some more Brod Brod is a great addition to the BROD BROD FDesigned by a famous Serbian father-son ar- be built. thoroughfares leading away from the military tress and the Sava-Danube confluence. core bers looking for a DJ that spins substantial items, such as soups, steaks riverbanks of Belgrade exactly for that Address: its doors after chitectural duo, Milan and Vladimir Lojanica, the Before WWII, the area was one of the most camp located at present-day Kalemegdan, many The best way to reach it is by car (you high-quality, underground electronic and various traditional Serbian grilled reason because it seems to have some- Bulevar Vojvode Bojovića, B.B. development, presently owned by a subsidiary vibrant in the city. Its location at the intersection archaeological remains were found at the site. will have to park at the Nebojša Tower music, it's more of a "I don't care what meat dishes. thing for everyone. A drink or two on Contact: +381 62 8170225 several delays of an Israeli construction and real estate group, of Kralja Petra and Knez Mihailova streets, where The finds required careful inspection and preser- parking lot or somewhere nearby) or the song is, I just want to dance" kind of The prices (and this goes for both a work night, weekend all-nighters or brodbrod.rs – apparently will include a piazza facing Knez Mihajlova and a Belgrade’s richest merchants had their shops vation, and continuation of construction in 2014 you can go by foot, arriving from Beton place, and a very unpretentious one. drinks and food) are lower than in most a quick snack on a Saturday afternoon www.facebook.com/brodbrod public viewing platform which promises fantastic and houses, made it a prime commercial and raised concerns among Belgrade’s archaeology due to “too views over the old city core. residential property back in the day. However, enthusiasts. Nevertheless, the new building has drawn criti- land ownership politics became convoluted after In the end, the building pays homage to the Rock icon Sting Red Snapper celebrates much history”. cism due its perceived bulkiness and how it con- wartime destruction and socialist-era nationalisa- history of its location despite the problems it trasts with the historic district around it. The area tion drew to a close. caused. Its icy glass, steel and stone facades returns to Belgrade anniversary of seminal album includes masterpieces of Belgrade’s 19th and 20th Especially problematic was the ownership reference some of the buildings that were de- century architecture. However, the stylistic fit – or of the plot of land at the corner Uzun Mirkova stroyed in the air-raids. At least according to the ne of the biggest music stars of the past three he mid-1990s were an important time for the fusion of electronic lack thereof – is probably the most minor out of all and Pariska, where “Srpski Kralj” hotel, one of initial designs, some of the Roman remains will decades, Sting, is returning to Belgrade on music and live instrumentation, with artists such as Massive the “historical” problems which have plagued the the city’s most luxurious, used to stand. The be publically displayed in the shopping centre. th September 17 to play at the Kombank Attack, Tricky and The Prodigy breaking new ground. An- project from the start. new complex was initially set to extend over the Nevertheless, even if the history buffs scoff and th th Arena. His new 57 and 9 World Tour other band that was very important in the movement was Even though the site in Rajićeva was an unas- site, which was later occupied by the charred don’t show up, Rajićeva shopping centre will has already made its way through Red Snapper, particularly with 1996 masterpiece "Prince suming terminal station for trolleybuses before remains of a popular restaurant and night-. After surely find its way into the heart of Belgrade’s Omost of South and North America and Europe, and TBlimey". The band will play in Belgrade on September 16th to celebrate 2003, its public property status proved to be an years of litigation, the heir to the Veljković family many shopaholics. features long term collaborators such as guitarists the 20th anniversary of the album, playing it in its entirety at Dom Om- Dominic Miller and Rufus Miller, along with Josh ladine. Freese on drums and a couple of special guests. The American band has already played in Belgrade, performing Fans can expect a trip through time, as the concert an amazing set as one of the main acts of the Belgrade Jazz Festival in will span many hits, starting from Sting's time as lead 2009. However, this concert will be a rare opportunity for fans to listen to singer of The Police, going on to include the songs that the entire record being played live and to experience the visionary work made him an even bigger commercial success as a solo of art that has aged brilliantly over the last two decades and sounds just as artist. The concert is nearly sold out and the only remaining relevant today as it ever did. Tickets cost eight euros in advance but about 10 at tickets are for one section. They cost about €50. the door.

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A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO OUR PREMIUM Cut Hands at Drugstore NEWS AND ANALYSIS Arch Enemy to play CONTENT Belgrade for first time Cut Hands is William Bennett, known IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE for his work with Whitehouse, one Kylesa vocalist's new for in-depth analysis, One of the most influential and easily of the most important groups of the band debuts at Elektropionir investigative reports, most popular bands of the Swedish underground electronic scene and Kalden Bess kicks off bing features, interviews, melodic death metal movement of the pioneers of the noise and power season for music reactions Laura Pleasants, the singer and guitar- commentary and profiles 1990s, Arch Enemy, are finally coming electronics movements. Influenced by ist of popular American psychedelic on the latest business and to Belgrade. Known for their heavy but central African percussion, Cut Hands Party promoters Music Reactions rock band Kylesa has a new project "Modular Journey" at Drugstore political headlines. also very melodic and anthemic mu- is pulsating and danceable but Bennett had a busy summer and plan to called The Discussion. The band does sic, they were also ahead of their time manages to maintain the violent and continue on that same path. Their not currently have any recorded mate- Spanish techno star Regal will featured in having a female vocalist screaming hypnotic vibe that has always been his second REACT promotional party rial yet, which means that Belgrade at Drugstore's latest "Modular Journey" th their lyrics. Arch Enemy have become trademark. Tickets will cost five euros will feature Canadian-born techno DJ/ fans will get to hear the music for the series of events on September 15 . It OTHER SERVICES: a huge metal attraction all around the at the door. Belgrade's DISCO NOT producer Kalden Bess and will ring in first time in a live setting. The band is is set to take place on the 's outdoor world. They play Dom Omladine on DISCO will be joining him for the night, the autumn bing season. The party will playing on September 17th at Elektropi- "Garden" stage, which will be open until September 18th. Tickets at the door will which starts at 11pm on September 16th be held at KPTM on September 12th and onir and tickets cost only four euros at the cold weather arrives. Tickets will cost €30. at Drugstore. tickets will cost four euros at the door. the door. be six euros at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 08 - Thursday, September 21, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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