Frank Williams 24 20 Feature Russian Reality Television 22 Day out in Moscow Ostankino Tower
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OCTOBER 2008 www.passportmagazine.ru MMoneone MMasteraster ooff MMakeover:akeover: AAlexanderlexander GlushkovGlushkov The Malecon Comes to Moscow The City by Parachute Russian Reality TV advertising Contents 4 Calendar and Editor’s Choice What to do in Moscow in October 8 October in Russian History 10 Film, Books, and Music - Russian Film: Still Arthouse? 6 - Sashenka, The Klaxons - The New Folk: A Primer 16 Art History Alexei Aizenman 18 Architecture An American Architect in Moscow: Frank Williams 24 20 Feature Russian Reality Television 22 Day Out in Moscow Ostankino Tower 24 Sports CSKA’s Trajan Langdon 34 27 Recreation Parachuting 28 Weekend Getaway Astana 30 Feature Pagan Russia 38 34 Russian Star Salon Magnate Alexander Glushkov 38 Real Estate The Feng Shui of Moscow is about to Change 40 Wine & Dine 42 44 Hospitality News 48 Columns 52 Out & About 56 The Last Word 44 Passport Poll Letter from the Publisher Without a doubt, fall is under way, bringing a change in light, color, temperature — in short, a makeover of our urban landscape. In recognition of this season of change, Passport‘s features this month are connected with a “makeover” theme. For example, our October Russian Star is master of makeover Alexander Glushkov, founder and CEO of Mone, Moscow’s biggest chain of beauty salons (page 34). Of course, since any mention of aesthetic alteration immediately reminds the Moscow resident of the changes happening in the city itself, our October issue provides a number of articles about Moscow’s own makeover. Olga Slobodkina von-Bromssen’s art history column explores the work of Moscow artist Alexei Aizenman (page 16), whose cityscapes preserve Moscow’s face in oils; James Brooke talks to architect Frank Williams (page 18), whose design for the Mercury City skyscraper will change the capital’s skyline forever; and Isabelle Hale digs into the foundations of Park Huaming, a Chinese twist on Moscow’s building boom (page 38). Th en there’s our Passport Poll (page 56). Th is month’s question: If you could change one thing about the city of Moscow, what would it be? On the entertainment front, Andy Potts traces the infl uence of traditional Russian folk music John Ortega on the contemporary music scene (page 12), while Marina Lukanina and Irina Gavrilova examine the phenomenon of reality television in Russia (page 20). And don’t even think about missing our Owner and Publisher regular features, including Weekend Getaway (this month’s pick: Astana, capital of Kazakhstan, page 28) and Restaurant Review (the new Cuban joint in town, Floridita, page 42). Of course, for many Westerners, and increasingly for Russians, October is also the month of Halloween. So in honor of that holiday, John Harrison has done some exploration of pre- Christian traditions that endure in modern Russian culture (Pagan Russia, page 30). Plus a look at an unholy recreational option available in Moscow (Parachuting, page 27). So close that window, please — it’s cold out there — and turn the page for some treats (it’s no trick!). P.S. By the way, it’s never too early to start preparing for our November travel issue! Get that suitcase out from under the bed and make sure your Passport is in order… Do you have a story you’d like to tell? Do you have a story you’d like to read? Passport wants to hear from you! Send comments, ideas, suggestions, requests to [email protected] Owner and Publisher Arts Editor Webmaster John Ortega, +7 (985) 784-2834 Alevtina Kashitsina Alexey Timokhin [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Managing Director Advertising Manager Accounting and Legal Services George Voloshin Simon Connolly Vista Foreign Business Support [email protected] [email protected] Trubnaya St. 25/1, Moscow +7 (495) 933-7822 Editor Designer Contributors Isabelle Hale Andrey Vodenikov Charles Borden, James Brooke, Irina Gavrilova, [email protected] [email protected] John Harrison, Ross Hunter, Tristan Kennedy, Deputy Editor Photographers Daniel Klein, Linda Lippner, Marina Lukanina, Anna Kulyagina Sergei Koshkin, Alexei Zhukov Vladimir Kozlov, Claire Marsden, Andy Potts, [email protected] Olga Slobodkina-von Brømssen Editorial Address: Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. Passport occasionally uses material we believe has been 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. 77- placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible Office 013, 1st floor 18639. 08.10.04 to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim 109316 Moscow, Russia Printed by Mozhaysky Poligrafichesky Kombinat ownership of something we have published, we will be 93 Mir Street, 143200 Mozhaysk, Russia pleased to make a proper acknowledgment. Tel. +7 (495) 978-2012 Fax +7 (495) 620-0888 www.passportmagazine.ru 2 October 2008 Monday Tuesday Wednesday Th ursday Friday Rigoletto (opera) Uma2Rman (Russian pop) Swan Lake (ballet) New Opera, 19:00 B1 Maximum, 20:30 Th e Kremlin Ballet To include an event Th e State Kremlin Palace, 19:00 Jesus Christ Superstar (Russian version of Yevgeny Onegin (opera) Andrew Lloyd Webber-Tim Rice musical) New Opera Th eater, 19:00 in our calendar, October Soirée with David Gvinianidze Academic Th eater of Mossoviet, 19:00 123(vocal) Giselle (ballet) please email information to International House of Music, 19:00 Roy Ayers (smooth jazz) Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchen- [email protected] B1 Maximum, 20:30 ko Musical Th eater, 19:00 or call Soul Fly (rock, US) B1 Maximum, 20:30 Mark Almond (vocal) Frank Colon (percussion) and Th e Wild (495) 978-2012 Estrada Th eater, 20:00 Shamans (jazz, US) Nadezhda Kadisheva (folk pop, vocal) Soyuz Kompositorov Club, 21:00 by the 15th of the month Zolotoye Koltso Th eater (Golden Ring), Mitchell Walker & the Yarkov Okun Trio prior to the event. 19:00 Art Cafe Durov, 20:00 Berezka Ensemble (dance) Dedicated to 100 anniversary of N.S. Ilya Lushtakov Quartet (jazz, US) Scarlett Dazzle (pop, rock) Nadezhdina Soyuz Kompositorov, 20:00 16 Tonn, 21:00 State Kremlin Palace, 19:00 Fourth International Moscow Doll Salon Model-T Exhibition Complex Th rough October 12 Th e Legend of the Invisible City of Kitezh Tribute to Maria Callas and the Maiden Fevronia (opera) Oh, Mozart, Mozart! (operetta) New Opera Th eater, 19:00 La Traviata (opera) Bolshoi Th eater, 19:00 New Opera Th eater, 19:00 Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko 678910Carmen (opera) Musical Th eater, 19:00 Chaika [Th e Seagull] (ballet) MakSim (pop) Oleg Pogudin, Russian romances (vocal) Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchen- Musical Th eater of Nazarov, 19:00 Estrada Th eater, 19:00 Musical Th eater, 19:00 Abraham Burton (saxophone, US) and ko Musical Th eater, 19:00 Alexander Podymkin Trio Sergei Grischenk (violin) and Mikhail Russian Philharmonic Orchestra Picnic (Russian rock) Art Cafe Durov, 20:00 Yasuaki Shimizu and Saxophonettes Petukhov (piano) (classical) MAI Service-Tour, 20:00 Bolshoi Concert Hall im Gnesinikh, Tchaikovsky Conservatory, Small Hall, Moscow House of Music, 19:00 Classical music concert 19:00 19:00 Fortuna Brass Band (jazz, Russia) St. Andrew’s Anglican Church, 19:30 Also October 11 Symphony Orchestra of Cinematography Soyuz Kompositorov Club, 21:00 Shaolin Monastery Monks Show conducted by Sergey Skripka (music from Alexey Liubimov and Mikhail Dubov Bossa Nova Festival, Moscow House of Music, 19:00 Soviet fi lms) Helmut Felkl (organ, Germany) Tchaikovsky Conservatory, Mir Concert Hall, 20:00 Also October 7 Tchaikovsky Concert Hall, 19:00 Roman Catholic Cathedral, 19:00 Rakhmaninov, Hall, 19:00 Th rough October 11 Roger Hodgson (Supertramp) Oleg Butman Trio and Gregory Porter International House of Music, 20:00 (jazz, Russia) Th e Nutcracker (ballet) Art Cafe Durov, 20:00 Amy London (jazz, US) Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchen- Russian Philharmonic Symphony Student Chior Soyuz Kompositorov Club, 21:00 ko Musical Th eater, 19:00 Orchestra (classical music) conducted by Stanislav Kalinin (vocal) Alexander Gorin (organ, Israel) Also October 17, 20:00 Also October 18, 12:00 13Tchaikovsky Conservatory, Big Hall, 14Tchaikovsky Conservatory, 15Roman Catholic Cathedral, 19:30 16 17 19:00 Rakhmaninov Hall, 19:00 Choir Capella Yaroslavia conducted by Djivan Gasparyan, duduk Also October 15 Flute and piano quartet (classical) Sergey Cherkosov and Vladimir Kontarev Estrada Th eater, 19:00 Cantus Firmus Chamber Orchestra Tchaikovsky Cultural Center, 19:00 St. Andrew’s Anglican Church, 19:30 Also October 18 (classical) Ex Animo Quartet (classical) Tchaikovsky Consrvatory, Small Hall, Tchaikovsky Conservatory, Small Hall, Classical music concert (violin, alt, cello) Christina Aguilera (pop, US) Sixty Five Days of Static and Banco de 19:00 19:00 Tchaikovsky Conservatory, Small Hall, Olimpiisky Sports Complex, 19:00 Gaia (rock, UK) 19:00 B1 Maximum, 20:30 Alexey Lundin (violin) and Mikhail Moscow Modern Music Ensemble Chamber Orchestra Vremena Goda Olenev (piano) conducted by Yuri Kasparov La Bayadere (ballet) (classical) Cannes Conservatory of Music and Tchaikovsky Conservatory, Moscow Philharmonia, Chamber Hall, Bolshoi Th eater, 19:00 Tchaikovsky Conservatory, Drama (classical) Rakhmaninov Hall, 19:00 19:00 Also October 16 Rakhmaninov Hall, 19:00 Tchaikovsky Cultural Center, 19:00 Quelques Fiers Mongols (jazz, France) Soyuz Kompositorov Club, 20:00 Moritis, Apoptygma Berserk (rock, Norway) 20 21 22 23 24Tochka Club, 20:00 Anna Levshina