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ADELAIDE to ERLDUNDA: STUART HIGHWAY © Lonelyplanetpublications Springs, Thegargantuan Eyre Lake Andsomeamazingoldoutbackpubs

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ADELAIDE to ERLDUNDA: STUART HIGHWAY © Lonelyplanetpublications Springs, Thegargantuan Eyre Lake Andsomeamazingoldoutbackpubs © Lonely Planet Publications 130 Adelaide to Erldunda: STUART HIGHWAY STUART HIGHWAY Stuart Highway ADELAIDE TO ERLDUNDA: ADELAIDE TO ERLDUNDA: No doubt about it: the Adelaide-to-Darwin drive up the middle of central Australia is a classic Australian road trip. The South Australian leg starts with a seductive swing through the vineyards of the Clare Valley, then a dash up Hwy 1 to Port Augusta, from where the Stuart Hwy shoots gun-barrel straight into the desert. Far less commercial and brassy than the Barossa Valley further south, the Clare Valley pro- duces some of the world’s best Riesling. Here in the Mid North – perhaps South Australia’s most underrated region – charismatic sandstone villages crop up unexpectedly among rounded hills, patchwork wheaten plains, tilled fields and ranks of grapevines under the sun. Back on Hwy 1, Port Augusta squats at the base of the Flinders Ranges, looking optimistically at the highway and wondering if anyone’s going to stop today. In fact, someone usually does – the ‘Crossroads of Australia’ has become a busy conference venue, with more motels than you can poke a pillow at. The town’s revitalised Spencer Gulf waterfront is an added drawcard. But what this chapter (and indeed this book) is really about is the Big Drive North. Head- ing into the red heart of Australia on the Stuart Hwy, Woomera is the first pit stop, with its dark legacy of nuclear tests and shiny collection of leftover rockets. Further north, the opal-mining town of Coober Pedy is an absolute one-off: a desolate human aberration amid the blistering, arid plains. If you’re feeling gung-ho, tackle a section of the iconic Oodnadatta Track, a rugged outback alternative to the Stuart Hwy tarmac. Along the way are warm desert springs, the gargantuan Lake Eyre and some amazing old outback pubs. HIGHLIGHTS Northern Territory Knock-knock-knocking on cellar doors as you pedal along South Australia the Clare Valley Riesling Trail ( p134 ) O odnada tta Wondering how the hell they managed to collect all this T Painted r a stuff at Mintaro’s Martindale Hall ( p134 ) Desert c k Bending your elbow at the bar of the famous Rising Sun Hotel ( p134 ) in Auburn Coober Pedy Checking out the collection of leftover military parapher- nalia in Woomera ( p139 ) Woomera Noodling through the mullock for opals in Coober Pedy ( p141 ) Ogling the vivid colours of the Painted Desert ( p143 ) Deflating your tyres a tad for a smoother ride along the Riesling rough ’n’ ready Oodnadatta Track ( p145 ) Trail Mintaro Stopping at the South Australia/Northern Territory border Auburn ( p146 ) and wondering how on Earth you ended up here… TELEPHONE CODE: %08 www.clarevalley.com.au www.opalcapitaloftheworld.com.au ADELAIDE TO ERLDUNDA: ADELAIDE TO ERLDUNDA: lonelyplanet.com ADELAIDE TO ERLDUNDA: STUART HIGHWAY •• National Parks 131 STUART HIGHWAY STUART HIGHWAY National Parks Choose-your-own-adventure Clare tours in a flash Merc to Department for Environment & Heritage stretch your hedonistic muscles. (%1800 816 078; www.environmen t.sa.gov.au/parks; Clare Valley Tours (%08-8843 8066, 0418-832 812; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Adelaide (%08-8821 2270; www.cvtours.com.au; 4/6hr tours $86/100) Minibus tours 91-97 Grenfell St; Clare (%08-8841 3400; 6/17 Lennon through the Mid North, taking in the Clare wineries, St); Port Augusta (%08-8648 5300; upstairs, 9 MacKay Martindale Hall and Burra. St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Contact point for regional Great Australian Cattle Drive (%08-8303 2220; park information. www.cattledrive.com.au) In 2010 this epic outback cattle drive will hoof through Coober Pedy, Marree and The best way to explore the outback envi- William Creek. Planning was in the early stages at the ronment is to purchase a Desert Parks Pass time of research; check the website for updates on how (www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/visitor/desertPrice to participate. .html; per car $105), allowing access to nine out- Just Cruisin 4WD Tours (%08-8383 0962; www back parks, with a map and handbook in- .justcruisin4wdtours.com.au; 13-day tour $6650) Aborigi- cluded. Aside from the DEH offices listed nal cultural tours visiting outback Indigenous communities, above, passes are available online or from the sites and guides en route from Adelaide to Uluru (Ayers following outlets: Rock). A 25-day epic Adelaide-to-Darwin tour is also on the Mt Dare Hotel (%08-8670 7835; Mt Dare, Witjira cards ($8500). National Park) Swagabout Tours (%0408-845 378; www.swagabout Pink Roadhouse ( p145 ) In Oodnadatta. tours.com.au) Dependable tours with the option of staying Royal Automobile Association of South Australia in hotels or camping under the stars. Its Adelaide-to–Alice ( p47 ) In Adelaide. Springs trips (five-/seven-/nine-/10-day tours camping Russ Driver & Co (%08-8952 1087; 58 Sargent St, $1350/1850/2400/2690, in hotels $1920/2675/3450/3850) Alice Springs) take in the Clare Valley, Flinders Ranges, Oodnadatta Track, Teague’s Hawker Motors & visitors centre ( p123 ) Dalhousie Springs and Uluru. It also runs one-/two-day In Hawker. Clare Valley trips ($120/440). Trading Post (%08-8675 9900; Innamincka) Underground Books ( p141 ) In Coober Pedy. Other major operators plying outback routes: Wadlata Outback Centre ( p137 ) In Port Augusta. Adventure Tours Australia (%1300 654 604, 8132 8130; www.adventuretours.com.au) Tours Groovy Grape (%1800 661 177, 8440 1640; www Outback tours are a great way to go, particu- .groovygrape.com.au) larly if you’re not used to driving epic off- Wayward Bus (%1300 653 510, 8132 8230; www road distances. Clare Valley tours are much .waywardbus.com.au) less challenging! The following options are all ex-Adelaide; see p54 for more. Other tours Getting There & Away depart Port Augusta (see p137 ) and Coober AIR Pedy ( p143 ). Regional Express (%13 17 13; www.regionalexpress.com Arabunna Tours (%08-8675 8351; www .au) flies daily between Adelaide and Coober .southaustralia .com/S9008383.aspx; 7-day tour $1050) Pedy ($199, two hours). Aboriginal- owned company offering cultural tours from Adelaide to the Flinders Ranges, Marree, Oodnadatta Track BUS and Lake Eyre. Premier Stateliner (%08-8415 5555; www.premier Big Country Safaris (%08-8538 7105; www.big stateliner.com.au) buses run at least twice daily countrysafaris.com.au; 12-day tour from $1860) Opera- from Adelaide to Port Augusta ($47, four tor offering small-group outback-camping 4WD tours hours). From Port Augusta, buses con- that take in the Simpson Desert, Coober Pedy and the tinue to Whyalla ($19, one hour) and Birdsville Track. Port Lincoln ($65, 4½ hours) and Ceduna Bookabee Tours (%08-8235 9954, 0408-209 593; ($108, 6½ hours). Note: Ceduna buses only www.bookabee.com.au; 4-/5-day tours $1930/2380) run on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday Highly rated Indigenous-run tours to the Flinders Ranges and Friday. and outback, including quality accommodation, meals, Yorke Peninsula Coaches (%08-8821 2755; www cultural tours, activities & interpretation. .ypcoaches.com.au) depart Adelaide daily for Clare Valley Experiences (%08-8842 1880; www Auburn ($21, 2¼ hours) and Clare ($29, .clarevalleyexperiences.com; tours up to 4 people $220) 2¾ hours), extending to Burra ($29, 3¼ .
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