TasmaniaTM GAY AND LESBIAN VISITOR’S GUIDE

www.discovertasmania.com/gayfriendly A Gay Travel Guides publication www.gaytravelguides.info Welcome is the heart-shaped island at the bottom of the world, a place you have to stoop to see on a desk globe. It is one of contents ’s six states, but thanks to its beauty, fertility and history Queer History 4 Arts & Crafts 18 it is another country. Language & People 8 & The South 20 In the words of Oxford Professor Peter Conrad, writing of The Queer View 10 Launceston & The North East 22 the land of his childhood, “Tasmania is Janus-faced. On the sunlit east coast you can feel you’re the first man on earth, greeting Wilderness & Wildlife 12 The North West & West 24 it in wonder; on the west’s storm-swept beaches, you’re the The Adventure Island 14 Special Things to See & Do 26 last of your race.” Wine & Food 16 Listings 30 The truth here is that Tasmania is a land of incongruous contrasts: sleepy towns with world-renowned cultural festivals, hedge-rowed Editor: Dominic O’Grady Publisher: Gay Travel Guides Pty Ltd English farmlands enclosed by the ethereal rainforests dinosaurs trod, Design: McGill Design Group PO Box 121 Blackheath NSW 2785 stately Georgian mansions amidst barbarous nineteenth-century penal Text: Rodney Croome Australia Photos: Courtesy of Tourism Tasmania, Ph: +61 2 4787 7905 camps, winter drought and snow storms in summer. Allport Library and Museum of Fax: +61 2 4787 7020 People come from around the world to enjoy these many different Fine Arts, State Library of Tasmania Email: [email protected] faces of Tasmania. and National Library of Australia. Visit: www.gaytravelguides.info Lovers of wilderness, adventure, culture, and food and wine Published in partnership with Tourism Tasmania – www.discovertasmania.com/gayfriendly flock to the island in search of the unspoilt places, beautiful views, exciting challenges and exquisite tastes. But they also find, emerging Wherever you are in the world, a holiday in Tasmania is easy to book. from between Tasmania’s contrasts and contradictions, something Visit your local travel agent or call in to a Tasmanian Travel Centre. much more. In Australia: Sydney – 60 Carrington St; Melbourne – 259 Collins St They find an island whose natural beauty and ecological diversity Phone: 1800 672 169, Fax: 1800 550 345 stands witness to the depth of humanity’s interconnectedness with Visit: www.tastravel.com.au all living things. They find a society whose past is a tangle of stories For international travellers: www.discovertasmania.com which are in equal measure brutal and tragic, uplifting and inspiring, and which expose the hidden springs of modern Australian and global history. They find a people to whom sincerity and a real connection to others is dear and precious. In short, they find themselves. My hope is that you will too.

– Rodney Croome, TASMANIAN GAY WRITER AND HUMAN RIGHTS ADVOCATE 4 5 Queer History

Tasmania's gay and lesbian history is rich and dramatic. loving charming spectacle. Dear (see p26–29 for more on Historic extremes of repression and freedom have Jack I value Death nothing but it convict homosexuality). culminated in recent world-class social reforms. is in leaving you my dear behind Reformation and no one to look after you… Reformers like Rev John West The only thing that grieves me Despite significant contact Partly thanks to Bass and thought a better solution was love is when I think of the between Aborigines and Flinder’s discovery colonial the end of convict transportation pleasant nights we have had Europeans before and after first outposts were soon established altogether. In 1846, West together. I hope you wont fall in settlement in 1803 we know in Tasmania as dumping grounds published this poem as a part of love with no other man when I nothing about the place of same- for England’s overflowing gaols. his campaign to discredit the am dead and I remain your True sex relationships in traditional In the 50 years to 1853 convict system by associating and loving affectionate Lover.” indigenous Tasmanian culture. 70,000 convicts were it with sodomy: transported to Tasmania, Early explorers “Pseudo-males” “Shall Tasman’s Isle so many for sexual offences Tasmania’s “gay history” Women discovered in same- famed, so lovely and so fair, including sodomy. began when Europeans first sex relationships in places from other nations be estranged, like the Hobart and Ross encountered the island. Convict love the Name of Sodom bear?” Female Factories were labelled Matthew Flinders, together with In the island’s gaols coercive and It worked. The transportation “pseudo-males” and assigned George Bass, proved Tasmania power-based homosexuality was of convicts ceased soon as servants to farmers in distant an island by circumnavigating common. But so were love after. The new Australian corners of the island. Some it in 1798-99. bonds between men and national identity that the anti- misbehaved so they would be Flinders wrote of Bass, between women, as shown transportation movement gave returned to gaol and their “there was a time when I was so by this letter written in the mid birth to, was tainted by profound lover’s arms. completely wrapped up in you, 1840s by a convict sentenced to homophobia well into the Separation was also used to that no conversation but hang for mutiny: “I hope you twentieth century. punish men. As concern about yours could give me wont forget me when I am male homosexuality rose, prisons Imprisoned pleasure; your footsteps far away and all my dorms were re-designed to keep Repression of homosexuality bones is moldered away upon the quarterdeck inmates separate and under remained a feature of Tasmanian over my head took me I have not closed an eye constant surveillance. Eventually life. The last hanging for sodomy from my book and since I lost sight of you the hated Separate Prison was in the British Empire was in brought me upon the your precious sight was built at Port Arthur as the final Tasmania in 1867 at the deck to walk with you”. always a welcome and solution to convict homosexuality Penitentiary Chapel 6 7

historic site. In the subsequent same-sex couples in Australia Group’s stall at Salamanca for gay and lesbian rights rise 100 years Tasmania had the were taken of young loving male Market was closed down by the from 15% below the national highest rate of imprisonment for couples in the secluded Hobart City Council and its average in 1988 to 15% private consenting male sex mountain-side Hobart suburb of supporters arrested by police. above when reform finally anywhere in Australia. One of Ferntree in the 1890s. Painter After two months of protests occurred in 1997. the men imprisoned was Bert, Isobel Oldham and writer Marie the stall was allowed but not Public support quoted here in a 1976 article Bjelke-Petersen lived openly with before 130 people had been Tasmania was the last titled “Why Noel Shot Himself their same-sex companions. By arrested in Australia’s largest Australian state to decriminalise and Bert Went to Gaol”: the 1960s Hobart’s cruising areas ever act of gay rights civil homosexuality. “If there had been reform in had become social spaces with disobedience. A few short years later it has 1958 I would have been saved car bonnets spread for picnic Times of change the best school anti-homophobia from the worst period of my life. lunches. Men were spotted The Salamanca arrests programs, Anti-discrimination I was 21 and living in Launceston across the city wearing black sparked a nine year debate Act and same-sex relationship with another man of the same armbands the day a popular over the decriminalisation of laws in the country, all with age. The police came to the beat was closed. homosexuality, which saw public support. house and asked who lived there. With this legacy full of the issue become the defining In 2004 Tasmania became When we said we did, they asked contradictions and extremes it’s social reform of the 1990s the first Australian state to where we slept and we pointed no surprise that the history of and Tasmania dubbed “Bigot’s allow same-sex couples to to the only bed in the house. We Tasmania’s modern gay and Island” by the world’s press. register their relationships. were taken to the police station, lesbian movement is also The campaign for and against Tasmanian history reminds us interviewed and charged with dramatic. change mobilised thousands that the potential for great gross indecency. In the Supreme Civil disobedience of people across the state. repression and great freedom Court I pleaded guilty. I had no Inspired by the globally Reform proponents enlisted can exist in the one society. legal representation. The case It also shows that significant Tasmanian the support of Amnesty was over in 10 minutes. I got which prevails environmental campaigns of the International, the UN three years.” depends in large part 1980s, including the successful Human Rights on the courage and Unexpected freedom campaign to save the Franklin Committee and the determination of Ironically, there was also greater River, the Tasmanian Gay and Federal Government. ordinary people. freedom in Tasmania than Lesbian Rights Group formed Incessant public elsewhere. The first photos of in 1988. Within months the discussion saw support 8 9 Language and People

Tasmania’s half a million people have a distinct outlook outsiders. Don’t be afraid to start a garrulous person, “nointer”: and character which charms visitors if acknowledged a conversation with a gay a naughty child), whaling and respected. Sincerity is the key. Tasmanian. The close-knit (“greasy luck”: good luck), nature of Tasmania means you geography (“the other side”: In equal measure reserved messages in these stories are will very quickly find yourself the mainland), and local brand and friendly, Tasmanians are worth waiting for. introduced to a very large names (“Jimmy”: a glass of beer). hospitable to outsiders but also It’s also impolite to disregard number of people. Watch out for jack-jumpers sensitive to how they are seen by distinctions between Tasmania’s Thanks to anti cross-dressing and inchmen (biting ants), others. Don’t be deceived by the regions. What the island lacks in laws, only recently repealed, triantulas (huntsmen spiders), politeness with which Tasmanian ethnic diversity it makes up for in drag is less common in Tasmania and Tasmanian champagne (a jokes will be received. It masks geographic diversity. than elsewhere in Australia. potent mix of brandy and cider). the kind of resentment that Acknowledging this diversity Although Tasmanians have a Potatoes have traditionally erects social barriers. Attempts to will help you make friends, reputation in some quarters been important to the Tasmanian impress also fall flat. Sincerity is particularly outside Hobart. for physical beauty there economy and there is fierce local the key to making friends. are no commercial sex venues. loyalty to different varieties. Real connections One of the joys of Tasmania Pink eyes are so highly valued Story-telling Opinion polls show that is that it is so easy and in the north west that some Tasmanians sometimes mumble, Tasmanians are more accepting rewarding to make a real parents refer to their children as and speak so quickly whole of gay and lesbian people than and lasting connection with “little pink eyes” and sweethearts words can disappear. It is fine to other Australians. But the type other people. When you are labelled “my favourite pink ask for repetition. It’s not fine to and depth of acceptance varies travel to Tasmania take the eye”. show impatience during considerably across the opportunity to do just that. story-telling. Long stories island. It is not unusual Fanny with frequent elaborate to see same-sex couples Pink eyes rule What sounds sexual is probably digressions and holding hands in Tasmanian English is dotted with not. A Geeveston Fanny is an reflective silences central Hobart. unusual words. They come from apple, and to be called “cock” is characterise Hobart and Aboriginal languages (“Palawa”: simply a casual, friendly form of conversations in Launceston’s people, “quoib”: wombat), address. Amongst older and rural rural Tasmania. gay venues are convict argot (“rummin”: a fool, Tasmanians the phrase “I’m The compelling considered friendly “chain-gang”: a hard task), old feeling a bit queer” means and and welcoming to English dialects (“yaffler”: speaker has a cold. 10 11 The Queer View Bjelke-Petersen believed that, compared to the artificiality of Sydney or Melbourne, beautiful, unaffected Tasmania was the obvious place to discover true, passionate love, something which she found with her life long companion, Sylvia Mills. Sexual ambiguity An extra in the 1926 film version of Bjelke-Petersen’s sexually ambiguous novel Jewelled Nights was Marelle Flynn, mother of film legend Errol. “Stop acting like a goddam Francois Peron Marie Bjelke Petersen Errol Flynn faggot, you no-good Tasmanian, bum, son-of-a-bitch.” In this From the earliest days of white exploration, same-sex mass” of Mt Wellington is on-set outburst, Michael “everywhere, looming above attracted people have reflected on Tasmania’s natural Curtiz, director of Flynn’s first the city like a threatening and often melancholic beauty, using it as a vehicle to Hollywood hit, Captain Blood, step-mother”. express their hopes and fears. summed up two major themes of It’s “an omnipresent granite- Errol’s life: his Tasmanian origins At the beginning of the Life-long companions purple shadow behind every and his reputed bisexuality. nineteenth century, two French At the end of a literary era view…so beautiful, but it’s In his autobiography Flynn explorers and possibly lovers whose first rush had affected the beauty of death”. reflected happily on trips into the Francois Peron and Charles Hellyer, early twentieth century wilderness with his biologist Green advocate Lesueur saw in Tasmania a Tasmanian novelist Marie Bjelke- father, Theodore, trapping native Not long after Altman left paradise untouched by the Petersen (aunt of former animals like the now extinct Tasmania, the world’s superstitions and affectations of Queensland Premier Sir Joh) Tasmanian tiger. appreciation of its natural modern life. It confirmed their set many of her romantic Key Hobart sites associated beauty was to change again, Enlightenment belief that nature classics in the island’s West. with Flynn include the Theatre thanks to another gay is benign, and man, in his “How appropriate that they Royal where he learnt to dance, Tasmanian, prominent natural state, rational and happy. should have met in this romantic and the Palace Theatre environmentalist Dr Bob Brown. A generation later, the first island”, she wrote in The (32 Elizabeth St, opposite The movement Brown has white man to climb Cradle Captive Singer, “with its great the GPO), where he led for almost 30 years has Mountain, surveyor Henry wild beauty of dense tangled not only helped save much Hellyer, described and drew the watched the latest bush, lofty mountains lifting of Tasmania’s beauty mighty wilderness of North West Hollywood films. bold undaunted crags, its from destruction but it Tasmania with a nod to the new Deathly beauty immense solitude, its deep has also given fashion of Romanticism. His In the 1960s, young melancholy, its riotous, us a greater bosses at the Van Dieman’s Land gay men like influential exuberant sunshine: appreciation than company were not impressed by academic Dennis Tasmania with its flaming ever before of aesthetic appreciation of lands Altman experienced sunsets and pearly dawns, the value of they saw only as future sheep Tasmania very some days tender, exquisitely Tasmania’s runs. Soon after, Hellyer took his differentially. yielding; on others convulsed wild places. own life, as gossip spread about with passion, impetuous, In Altman’s, his alleged relationship with a ungoverned.” The Comfort of male convict. Men, “the dark Dr Bob Brown 12 13 Wilderness and Wildlife

“If we can accept the view that man and nature are by its scenery it is united by an possums, wallabies, whales inseparable parts of the unified whole, then Tasmania abundance of wildlife. and fur seals can be easier to can be a shining beacon in a dull, uniform and largely Thanks to its isolation, the see in Tasmania. artificial world.” island is blessed by many unique The best places to see species of plants and animals. Tasmania’s animals are at the These words from one of open grasslands of the east, Examples include the wedge- “marsupial Serengetis” of Tasmania’s greatest wilderness filled with birdsong and the tailed eagle, Cape Barren goose, Narawntapu, Mt William and photographers, Olegas rhythmic hollow thump of orange bellied parrot, moss Maria Island National Parks. Truchanas, sum up the bounding kangaroos, and the froglet, snow skink, rainforest You can be hopeful of a importance of Tasmania’s wild mountain ranges, temperate species like myrtle and sassafras, platypus sighting on the Henty places. Not only is natural rain-forest and buttongrass the swamp gum which at up to River near Zeehan, the Mersey Tasmania breathtaking in its plains of Tasmania’s west. 110 metres is the world’s tallest River near Latrobe, Hastings beauty and diversity but it’s also flowering plant, and one of the Caves and at Lake St Clair Silent and serene unique, accessible, soul-enriching, world’s longest-living organisms, and Mt Field National Parks. Tasmania’s alpine and rain- considered of global significance, the Huon pine, which can The mascot of Ark Tasmania forest areas are delicate and and, far the most part, protected. flourish for 3000 years. is the Tasmanian devil. Smaller fragile. The silence and serenity Tasmania is also refuge but just as noisy as their cartoon Many Tasmanias is of another world. But the for many mammals and birds namesake, devils can be seen What strikes visitors first is weather can be unpredictable that have been harassed to at most wildlife parks. the range of different natural and harsh. Be prepared for rain, near extinction elsewhere – environments. snow and burning sun any time As bright as coral bandicoots, bettongs, The creamy sands of the east of the year and sometimes all Tasmania’s marine parks draw pademelons, potoroos, quolls, coast’s Friendly Beaches are a on the same day. many visitors. Southern and white goshawks, hooded world away from the endless Visitors also enjoy the western kelp forests hide some plovers and fairy penguins. north eastern forests, southern seasonal variation in Tasmania’s of the most outlandish sea sea-cliffs battered by Antarctic wilderness. Spring wildflowers Ark Tasmania horses in the world. The gales and alpine lakes wrapped dot alpine tundra. Deciduous Animals commonly sponges that grow in in the swirling mists that roll beech gilds the rainforest found in other groves along the east in from Argentina. in autumn. Winter snow parts of Australia, coast attract attention The greatest contrast is transforms a forest into a like platypus, with colours as bright between the dry forests and fairytale. If Tasmania is divided echidnas, wombats, and varied as coral. 14 15 The Adventure Island

Lonely Planet wasn’t exaggerating when it dubbed magnet for climbers, while of an ancient pencil pine hauling Tasmania “Adventure Island”. There are walking, surfing, numerous bays and off-shore in rainbow-flecked trout. Sea and kayaking and diving experiences to suit every taste. islands, particularly in the south game fishing is also popular, east, make Tasmania a yachting particularly on the east coast. The island is rightly famous as great waves. Wet or dry suits are and sea kayaking mecca. It’s not Golfers have a choice of over the world’s best bushwalking recommended all year round. uncommon to spot families of 75 courses, while cyclists enjoy destination. As well as long Enchanting limestone and southern right whales and pods scenic routes like the Fingal and walks like the five day Overland dolomite karst systems make of dolphins when you’re out on Upper Derwent Valleys. Track, there’s a wide range Tasmania a caver’s delight. the water. Tasmania’s beaches are good of short walks that take in for strolling and sunbathing. If A good place to start, for White water mountains, beaches, waterfalls you’re keen for a swim follow beginners and hard-core cavers Rivers abound in Tasmania, so and historic sites. locals to the most sheltered alike, is Hastings Caves south of rafters and jet boaters do beaches with the warmest water Guided walks Hobart. Follow this up with a too. Australia’s last wild (water temperature can Guided walks are increasingly visit to the renowned Mole Creek river, the Franklin, is vary remarkably between popular with visitors looking for Karst National Park west of famous with rafters. beaches). the personal touch of guides Launceston. But there is also Historic gardens who know the land and its Divers paradise exciting white Tasmania has many stories. The companies which Divers come from around the water on the historic gardens run guided walks in Cradle world to enjoy Tasmania’s clear Picton, the Mersey and including the National Mountain, Freycinet and Maria water and diverse marine the North Esk. Jet boat Rose Garden at Woolmers Island National Parks are all companies run tours on the habitats. The kelp forests of the and the Tasmanian Botanical gay-friendly. lower stretches of the Derwent, Forestier and Gardens, complete with an early Huon and King Rivers. World’s biggest waves are the most accessible. King nineteenth century “tropical For some more relaxed Expert surfers can be found Island is a diver’s paradise with wall” riddled with heat ducts. recreation try angling, golfing or riding the world’s largest over 200 ships wrecked off its When touring, take it easy on cycling, or visit an historic garden. breakers off Tasmania’s rugged dangerous shores. the island’s many narrow, south coast. For the less intrepid, The dolerite columns that Scenic routes winding roads, and travel slower Clifton Beach east of Hobart and give Tasmania’s mountains and In the silence of a misty alpine at night to avoid hitting animals. Marrawah in the far north west southern sea coasts the look of dawn anglers can sometimes be For more on adventure see are renowned for consistently ancient ruined fortresses are a seen beneath the gnarled limbs p30–31. 16 17 Wine and Food

Lovers of Tasmania’s wine and food have two simple D’Anvers, South Hobart’s Island Swansea delights explanations for why the island’s produce is highly prized Produce or the Swansea is a traveller and as some of the freshest and tastiest in the world. Fudge Company. Cheese-makers like Ashgrove and jam-makers gourmet’s delight. The seaside village is The first is Tasmania’s fertility. It Strahan has one of the tastiest like Dorans bring all their produce the perfect base from provides the nation with most of dégustation menus in Australia. together in single farm outlets, which to explore Freycinet its vegetables and much of the while most of Tasmania’s river Wine trails National Park. Gay-owned gourmet dairy goods and valleys are dotted with road-side A short drive out of Hobart accommodation choices seafood found on tables in fruit, flower, jam and native honey and Launceston into the Huon, include colonial Meredith Singapore and Tokyo. stalls. Ichigo strawberries and Coal, Derwent and Tamar House or cliff-top Kabuki- The second is a cool, leatherwood honey are Tasmanian River Valleys, visitors can find by-the-Sea. temperate climate in which specialties you must try. numerous wineries, many with Prized Tasmanian fish varieties At the Paris end of town is it takes fruit longer to ripen, top-end restaurants that also like Blue eye trevalla, and the the gay owned and operated making it sweeter and juicier. feature Tasmanian fare. island’s larger-than-average Left Bank Café, voted Tasting Tasmania Derwent Valley merlots go mussels, oysters, abalone and Australia’s best café by the There are several ways to taste well with a bite of Tasmanian crayfish, are available from both Gay Australia Guide and the Tasmania. chocolate fudge. specialist sea-food restaurants like only eatery outside Hobart or pinot gris is best accompanied Tasmanian food and wine is Fish Frenzy and Mures, and Launceston to be listed in the by a stunning view of the featured in restaurants and cafes dockside fish punts. Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant Wellington Range. in major centres and many Food fests guide. Its lemon tart, carefully smaller towns as well. Straight to the source It all comes together at Tasmania’s constructed in twelve delicate Restaurants such as In Tasmania there is ample popular food festivals, the stages and baked fresh every Lebrina in Hobart, and opportunity for gourmets to Taste of Tasmania in Hobart, day, has a national following. Stillwater in go straight to the source Launceston’s Festivale, the Taste Swansea also boasts Launceston, are setting of their favourite food. of the Huon and Devonport’s Kate’s Berry Farm, where new standards, while Chocoholics can Taste of the Harvest. the sweetest berries are coffee culture thrives at sample their childhood At festivals like these, magically transformed into cafes like Choux Shop, favourites at Cadbury’s Tasmania’s food-makers, wine- everything from ice cream Retro and Criterion in in Hobart or go up- growers and chefs gather to share and jam to wine. Hobart. Franklin Manor in market at Latrobe’s their gourmet achievements. 18 19 Arts and Crafts

Poet Gwen Harwood and painter Lloyd Rees both largest collection of traditional a must-see, while the declared Tasmania’s light unique in the world, and Aboriginal artefacts, while Strahan Visitor Centre has an inspiration for their greatest achievements. contemporary indigenous art is won numerous awards for its on display at Art Mob in Hobart compelling perspectives on west For Tasmania’s world-class Henry Jones Art Hotel, all and Tiagarra in Devonport. coast history. The museum at furniture makers, wooden boat in Hobart. Wilderness photography is Hobart’s Moorilla winery has the builders and art-jewellers, it is Wooden boats available from many outlets, largest collections of Roman something more solid, the including Wilderness Shops. mosaics, meso-American art Having produced more than its island’s many unique timbers and fair share of writers, Tasmania is But the best place to see and ancient stone phalluses rare metals. In Tasmania’s unique now also producing a distinctive how this genre has evolved in in Australia. Aboriginal artefacts like shell literature that is celebrated at response to both artistic and For antique hunters Tasmania necklaces, and in its tradition of events like the Salamanca Writers political influences is at Cradle is a treasure trove. Serious wilderness photography, light Festival. The largest range of Mountain’s Wilderness Gallery. collectors snap up bargains and earth are blended into a Tasmanian books is to be found from small-town dealers as translucent whole. Stone phalluses at Hobart, Astrolabe and York well as their city counterparts. Artists, designers, writers Tasmania is renowned for its Town bookshops. and their admirers are drawn to historic homes and specialist Culture fests The latest in furniture design Tasmania by the way its precious museums. Homes like All Tasmania’s cultural can be found at the Tasmanian beauty is reflected in a rich and Clarendon and Entally achievements are brought Wood Design Centre in vibrant culture. near Launceston are together in festivals like Launceston. Wooden boat Just as it was a magnet for windows into life on the Tasmanian Craft Fair building is a thriving industry in colonial artists, so Tasmania Tasmania’s semi-feudal (the largest in Australia) and Franklin. Art-jewellery, ceramics continues to produce compelling nineteenth century the world-class Ten Days on and sculpture are on show in contemporary art informed by estates. The Port Arthur the Island. Hobart’s Salamanca Place place. Colonial art is a feature museum is Australia’s Established several years studios, Launceston’s Inveresk of the Tasmanian Museum and best for convict ago as a celebration of the Cultural Precinct and smaller Art Gallery, while the best history. On the west diversity of island cultures, centres like Deloraine. contemporary art is on display coast, the quirky, old- Ten Days features cutting at the Plimsoll and Carnegie Wilderness art style jumble of Zeehan edge art, writing, drama, Galleries, at galleries and studios Launceston’s Queen Victoria and Queenstown’s opera and dance from in Salamanca Place and at the Museum houses Tasmania’s museums makes them around the world. 20 21 Hobart and The South

“Hobart is the only place someone without a lot of money the Tahune Airwalk and the Visitors to the Tasman Peninsula can live a civilised life.” Writer and broadcaster Robert superb scenery of the Hartz should make time for the area’s Dessaix is only one of the many gay and lesbian people Mountains and . geological wonders including the who have been seduced by the beauty, friendliness and Less well known beauty spots Tessellated Pavement, Tasman’s sophistication of Hobart. include Snug and Pelverata Falls Arch, Remarkable Cave and the west of Snug, and Fluted Cape Devil’s Kitchen. Hobart combines many big city Enjoy coffee at gay-friendly and on Bruny Island. Rivers Run amenities and attractions with Machine and KAOS Cafes, or You’ll enjoy a stay at Hiba, Running north west from Hobart the charm and friendliness of a something more substantial Huon Bush Retreats or Riseley is the Rivers Run Trail, a drive large country town. Bracketing at gay-owned Rockerfellers Cottage, all gay owned and past hop fields and oast houses this attractive mix are the or Lickerish. operated. through to the magnificent Styx grandeur and ever-shifting Hobart’s gay clubs are small Convict Trail Valley and Mt Field National Park. moods of Mt Wellington and but fun. Check the Listings for The Convict Trail runs east This route follows the the Derwent estuary. more information. through the Georgian village of picturesque Derwent River up to City life Huon Valley Richmond, home to Australia’s Lake St Clair, Australia’s deepest Features of Hobart include Several touring routes start oldest bridge and catholic lake. Encircled by mountains and Salamanca Market every in Hobart. church, and on to the Tasman rainforest, and lined by alpine Saturday morning, Australia’s The Huon Trail runs south Peninsula, a former open air beaches, Lake St Clair is one of largest Georgian precinct, through the rolling farmland prison camp centred on the Tasmania’s best kept secrets. Battery Point, the of the Huon Valley, the great convict town of Port Arthur. Heritage Highway restaurant strips southern forests and spectacular No tour of Port Arthur is Finally, there is the Heritage of Sullivans Cove and Bruny Island to Australia’s complete without a visit to the Highway, winding its way North Hobart, tours southern-most town, Cockle Isle of the Dead and the Boy’s through Georgian villages like of historic sites like Creek (population 4). Prison at Point Puer. If you have Oatlands and Ross (see p26–29 the convict women’s Features include wineries time, visit some of Port Arthur’s for more on Ross). This route prison in South near , craft studios in out-stations like Koonya, takes you past some of Hobart and the city Franklin, Cygnet’s groovy Red Saltwater River and the Coal Tasmania’s grandest colonial penitentiary, and views Velvet Lounge, the landing Mines, or test your nerves on houses, and some of its best from the top of Mt sites of many early explorers, one of Port Arthur’s famed antique shops. Be sure to visit Wellington. Hastings Caves and hot springs, ghost tours. the Bonorong Wildlife Park. 22 23 Launceston and The North East

The Heritage Highway links Hobart with Launceston, beauty. The former tin mining Tasmania’s second-largest city and its northern capital. Where town of Derby, the site of Maria Island Hobart’s style is late Georgian, Launceston’s is mid-Victorian, Australia’s first national lesbian Then it’s on to another of reflecting its close links to Melbourne, established by conference in 1975, features Tasmania’s well-kept secrets, Maria Island. Originally set explorers and settlers from Launceston. gay-friendly cafes and the remnants of a once-thriving aside as a refuge for Although founded only a The Tamar Valley touring route Chinese community. St Columba endangered species, Maria year after Hobart, in 1804, follows the Tamar River north and Ralphs Falls are worth a visit, is free of private cars and Launceston was rebuilt in the through some of Tasmania’s best as are the long, deserted beaches homes, and almost mid-nineteenth century with wine country. On your way take of Mt William National Park, but supernaturally serene. money its merchants made from some time out from wine tasting don’t tarry because the matchless It is a camper’s delight. provisioning Victoria’s gold rush. to visit the gold mining town of beauty of the Bay of Fires Not even Britain’s early nineteenth century prison Like Melbourne, Launceston Beaconsfield and Sea Horse beckons. guards could darken Maria in is built around carefully laid World at Beauty Point. Greens The holiday resort of St Helens the eyes of the convicts out and ornately adorned parks Beach at the Tamar’s mouth is is where the North East Trail ends transported there. The Irish typical of the Victorian period. Launceston’s favourite place to and the East Coast Escape begins. political prisoner William fish, swim and relax. Summer strolls Wineglass Bay Smith O’Brien wondered The route A must-see in Launceston is Follow the “Tasmanian Riviera” how he could fulfil his destiny takes travellers west through Cataract Gorge. After winding its south along some of Australia’s as a martyr in “one of the picturesque villages like Carrick way slowly through many of the most beautiful coastline loveliest spots formed by the and Westbury to magnificent convict-era villages that surround to Freycinet National hand of nature”. forests, waterfalls and caves. Launceston, the South Esk River Park where a visit to Modern visitors respond After you’ve visited Liffey Falls tumbles dramatically into town Wineglass Bay, voted to Maria Island in much and enjoyed the glow worms in through several steep gorges and one of the world’s top the same way. Its Marakoopa Cave sample the deep basins that are the perfect 10 beaches, is a must, beaches, forests and delights of the Christmas Hill back-drop to a romantic summer as is a dip in the limpid cloud-wrapped peaks Raspberry Farm. evening stroll. pools of the Apsley River. suggest the sublime Tamar Valley North East Trail Next stop, Swansea abode of old and gentle Launceston is the start of several The North East Trail is a relaxing for lunch (see p12– 13 gods. scenic touring routes. blend of history and natural for more). 24 25 The North West and West

When colonial Governor George Arthur gave permission for a volcanic core overlooking From Cradle the West Coast the first white settlement in North West Tasmania in the mid historic Stanley. While in Stanley Wilderness Way takes you 1820s his phrase “beyond the ramparts of the unknown” visit the birthplace of Australia’s through the thick western summed up the mystery, promise and threat with which only Tasmanian-born Prime forests to the mining towns of many colonial Tasmanians invested the western districts. Minister, Joseph Lyons, and Rosebery and Zeehan. Highfield House, designed by Compelling perspective early explorer Henry Hellyer. The south west was an even the skulls of runaway convicts Your destination, Strahan, is an Further west is the surfing more impenetrable mystery for half way up the trees that have excellent base for exploring mecca of Marrawah, and many early white Tasmanians, at grown through them, of off- Macquarie Harbour, wild rivers one time being officially tagged roaders swallowed whole and Woolnorth, where special hides like the Gordon, and the west “Transylvania”. lost forever in the quick sands of allow visitors to view Tasmanian coast’s beaches. endless western beaches. devils in the wild. Old-time stories While in Strahan take in the Skulls up trees, body surfing The beauty, strangeness and Wilderness Way award winning Strahan Visitor platypus: the west may seem a severity of Tasmania’s west has The Cradle Country touring Centre. It provides a compelling world apart, but it is where inspired many artists and writers, route winds south from perspective on Aboriginal history, many of the rips of our history including, most recently, Richard Devonport through the rolling Huon piners and the modern and identity meet in one Flanagan. His novels draw on green hills beneath Mt Roland to environment and gay rights magnificent swell. the tales of old-timers whose stunning Cradle Mountain. Pay a movements. stories hold Tasmania’s west Volcanic core visit to Trowunna Wildlife Park together like the ancient, The Great Nature Trail follows at Mole Creek or take in the Tragic reminder tangled roots which bind its Bass Strait past Devonport and murals depicting Sheffield’s The reconstructed West Coast sodden soil. Burnie and on to Tasmania’s history and personalities. Wilderness Railway is a must for When you reach Cradle fans of steam and allows Surfing platypus rugged north west tip. Mountain make sure you have travellers a chance to explore the In western Tasmania The simultaneous at least enough time to walk the mining town of Queenstown. you'll hear of families views of Dove Lake Circuit and take in Queenstown: a reminder of the of platypus riding mountain and the beauty that inspired impact of former mining the waves at river ocean are conservation pioneer Gustav practices on the environment mouths, bills agape matchless. So Weindorfer to devote himself to and of the incongruities which catching whitebait, are the views Cradle Mountain’s preservation. make Tasmania so fascinating. of locals discovering from “the Nut”, 26 27 Special Things to See and Do

Tasmania is an inexhaustible source of delight and wonder. Normally shy of humans, had walked in on eight men who Here are some more special things to see and do while devils can be seen close up had pushed their beds together visiting the island. They are uniquely Tasmanian. at Tasmania’s wildlife parks and lay sleeping in each other’s and at special purpose-built embrace his words echoed all the Moonbirds The best places to see hides at different locations way to London. An experience enjoyed by many muttonbirds are special around the island. Not long after, at Tasmania’s Tasmanian wildlife enthusiasts is viewing platforms at Cape largest convict station, Port Flash Mob a visit to a muttonbird rookery. Deslacs near Clifton Beach and Arthur, penitentiary dorms were All Tasmania’s convict historic Tasmania is a haven for the neck on Bruny Island. re-designed to keep inmates sites have a homosexual muttonbirds, or shearwaters. Moonlit nights are best. separate and under constant history, but few provide They spend the summer surveillance. breeding season here (Nov – Possessed by the devils any insight into it. Separation and surveillance Apr) before migrating to the Tasmanian devils are the The Strahan Visitor were even more strictly enforced shores of Alaska and Siberia. island’s most recognisable Centre is unique in examining in the Separate Prison, which Muttonbirds gather food emblem, thanks to their convict homosexuality at early was built at Port Arthur partly to far out at sea during cartoon equivalent, known punishment stations like Sarah allow men convicted of sodomy the day. The best across the world. Island near Strahan, Maria Island to reflect on their “unnatural time to see them The world’s largest and the convict Coal Mines vice” and repent. This prison is when they marsupial carnivore acquired south of Hobart, as well as remained in use to punish non- return at dusk its name from early colonists drawing links between convict homosexuals well after to giant rookeries to feed frightened by its characteristic homophobia in nineteenth and the penology behind it had been their chicks. snarling and wailing. Apocryphal twentieth century Tasmania. discredited elsewhere. The story It is awe-inspiring to watch stories of devils downing and Closed in 1848, partly of Leonard Hand, a young man thousands of these agile birds devouring cattle are still told because of official concern convicted of sodomy who was wheel and dive as the moon today to scare young children. about uncontrollable sodomy driven mad by its rigour, is told rises behind them. Aboriginal In reality devils are intelligent in the mine’s depths, the Coal in the prison. people call them “moonbirds”. animals with a highly structured Mines is now an evocative site Hobart’s convict women’s Muttonbirds are protected, social life and a playful streak. well worth visiting. So are the prison was the site of “much but traditional harvesting by There is still much to be lonely convict ruins on Maria unnatural intercourse” according Aborigines is allowed. Their dark, learnt about devil behaviour, Island. When Maria’s convict to its superintendents. An inquiry greasy meat is an acquired taste. reproduction and biology. Superintendent wrote that he into the infamous group of 28 29

incorrigibles known as Jorgensen, who, in between the latter was ripped in half by sites include the caves at the “Flash Mob” heard of serving two sentences as a an off-course freighter in 1975 Bedlam Walls near Hobart, “prisoners dancing perfectly convict in Tasmania, was briefly 12 people died. A march for and the rock carvings on naked and making obscene King of Iceland. As the carvings Aboriginal reconciliation across Mersey Bluff in Devonport. attitudes towards each other”. wear with age they speak of the re-built bridge in 2000 was Historic places of profound Worse still the investigators were how the Tasmanian past blurs proportionally the largest of its significance to Aboriginal told that “two women had mythology and history in larger- kind in Australia. people include the original recently been detected in the than-life figures like Jorgensen. site of Hobart, at Risdon Cove, Sacred places very act of exciting each other’s Another remarkable convict- Wybelena on Flinders Island and Tasmania’s indigenous passions – on the Lord’s Day in built bridge is the Spiky Bridge Oyster Cove south of Hobart. people have a rich, vibrant the House of God – and at the south of Swansea. Built without The latter two were camps culture stretching back very time divine service was mortar and with a spiked to which many Aboriginal 40,000 years. performing”. parapet, supposedly to stop people were exiled after their Pre-historic sites are cows falling off, Spiky Bridge guerrilla war to stop white Bridges common, although most is a source of great bafflement encroachment ended in In an island society familiar are remote or invisible to to many visitors. Australia’s only European/ with contrasts, contradictions the untrained eye. This is a Rare wooden industrial-age Aboriginal treaty in the 1830s. and sometimes deep division, blessing given their immense bridges like the Bird River Bridge, That treaty remains unhonoured. bridges have a special symbolic and the reconstructed bridges significance and fragility. importance. on the West Coast Wilderness Aboriginal middens (refuse Larmairremener Tabelti At Richmond, east of Hobart, Railway, both near Strahan, piles) can be found in most Insight into the continuity of Australia’s oldest bridge is still testify to engineering genius and coastal areas. There are also Aboriginal culture and its link to in use. So is the bridge at a desire to tame Tasmania’s many stone tool quarries, the land can be found at the Ross, half way between wilderness. Hobart’s nineteenth ochre quarries, fish traps Aboriginal culture walk, or Hobart and Launceston. century aquaducts show the and hut trenches. “Larmairremener Tabelti”, at Ross Bridge features the faces same historical period in a Tasmanian Aboriginal Lake St Clair National Park. of colonial Tasmanians and gentler mood. hand stencils found in caves When visiting Aboriginal figures from Celtic mythology Architectural merit can also be in the south west are some sites please recognise that carved by convict masons into found in modern bridges like the of the oldest human art. they are part of a living culture its 170 year old stones. One Batman north of Launceston and The most accessible and and pay them the respect of the faces belongs to Jorgen Hobart’s Tasman Bridge. When well-interpreted pre-historic they deserve. L Ph: (03)62243556 Rights Group & Lesbian T Ph: (03)62313212 needs) (for lesbianhealth Health Centre Hobart Women’s Ph: (03)62341242 Diseases on AIDS&Related T Ph: (03)64346474 Burnie Ph: (03)62227688 Hobart personal support) (for counsellingand W Ph: (03)62348179 events) and community commercial venues (for up-to-dateinfoon Gay InfoLine Groups Community asmanian Gay asmanian Council orking ItOut istings information centre. staffed visitors www.discover Information Festival Events and www.troutguides Information Fishing www.discover Information Adventure www.divetasmania. Information Diving www.parks.tas.gov.au National Parks www.tastravel.com.au T General ouring Itineraries tasmania.com/events tasmania.com.au tasmania.com com indicate a The i signs Ph: (03)63986220 Evandale Homestead Clarendon Hobart www.rtbg.tas.gov.au Botanical Gardens Royal Tasmanian Longford www.woolmers.com.au Garden & NationalRose W and AnzacDay) (except ChristmasDay 8.30am–3.00pm Every Saturday from Hobart Salamanca Market, Ph: (03)62310911 Hobart Historic Site Penitentiary Chapel Ph: (03)63815466 Ross T South Hobart Female Factory Attractions el: (03)62231559 oolmers Estate

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WORLD HERITAGE AREA A6 MargateSnug South Arm TarannaEaglehawk Neck HUONVILLE Fortescue The Rivers Run ...... AR Dennes Pt Koonya THU Castle Forbes Bay Kettering Bay R R Franklin Huon Trail ...... ANGE Port Huon STORM Cygnet Nicholls Rt Nubeena Convict Trail ...... Woodbridge Peninsula Gardners BAY The Heritage Highway ...... Middleton Port CapeTasman Pillar Bay Southwest l CapeArthur Raoul N Geeveston e Great Western Tiers Tourist Route .. n National Park n National Park a Verona h Tamar Valley Touring Route ...... C A Federation • Sands ux North East Trail ...... Hartz Mtns ea BRUNY Peak st National Park ca East Coast Escape ...... Port Dover e M tr Lunawanna Davey n E Alonnah ' S D Adventure TRAVELLING DISTANCES (km) AND TIMES Ida Bay Bay Melaleuca ISLAND A Launceston-St Helens (via Scottsdale) 163 2hrs20 Cloudy Southport Bay T Launceston-Bicheno (via Scottsdale) 236 3hrs30 South West Cape Launceston-Hobart (via Midlands Hwy) 198 2hrs20 South Bruny Bicheno-Hobart (via Sorell) 178 2hrs25 National Park Maatsuyker SouthCockle East Cape Creek Hobart-Port Arthur 93 1hr30 Group Hobart-Queenstown 260 3hrs40 THE SIGN TO HELP YOU Queenstown-Burnie 176 2hrs25 Tasmania has a network of information centres in all areas of the Burnie-Devonport 49 40min state to help you get the most value out of your holiday. For more detail on roads, visitor attractions and services, Our staff are 'local experts' and will be delighted to point out those extra Burnie-Smithton 85 1hr refer to Visitors Map of Tasmania available at special places and experiences that you might otherwise miss. Devonport-Launceston 99 1hr15 Service Tasmania outlets, Visitor Information centres and selected retail outlets statewide. Look out for signs and call to take advantage of our free information service. Devonport-Hobart (via Midlands Hwy) 277 3hrs 3598/11/043597/11/04 www.dpiwe.tas.gov.au Hobart-St Helens 265 3hrs40 Queenstown-Launceston (via Sheffield) 251 3hrs30 © STATE OF TASMANIA Tourism Tasmania: www.discovertasmania.com Entally House Wine & Food Mures Seafood Arts & Crafts Bookshops Hiba Hadspen Restaurant www.hiba.com.au Ph: (03) 6393 6201 Wine Routes www.mures.com.au Tasmanian Museum Hobart Bookshop Bruny Island Visit: www.discover & Art Gallery Port Arthur Hobart Hobart tasmania.com Huon Bush Retreats Historic Site www.tmag.tas.gov.au Ph: (03) 6223 1803 Left Bank Café Hobart www.huonbush www.portarthur. Choux Shop Café Swansea Astrolabe Bookshop retreats.com org.au Hobart Ph: (03) 6257 8896 Queen Victoria www.astrolabebooks. Huonville Port Arthur Ph: (03) 6231 0601 Kate’s Berry Farm Museum com.au Corinda’s Cottages Coal Mines Retro Bar & www.qvmag.tas. Hobart Road C341 Swansea www.corindas Restaurant gov.au Saltwater River Ph: (03) 6257 8928 cottages.com.au Hobart Launceston Tours Hobart Hastings Caves Ph: (03) 6223 2073 Machine Café www.parks.tas.gov.au Hobart Plimsoll Gallery Vino Ventures Riseley Cottage /reserves/hastings Criterion Café Ph: (03) 6224 9922 Hobart www.vinoventures.net Dover nr Southport Hobart Ph: (03) 6226 4309 Ph: (03) 6298 1630 KAOS Café Hobart Tahune Airwalk Ph: (03) 6234 5858 Mt Paul on Freycinet Hobart Carnegie Gallery Shake a leg guided Geeveston Franklin Manor Ph: (03) 6231 5699 www.mtpaul.com Hobart Eco walking tours Ph: (03) 6297 0068 Strahan Coles Bay Rockerfellers Ph: (03) 6238 2100 Bicheno Bonorong Ph: (03) 6471 7311 www.rockerfellers. Rainbow Retreat Wildlife Park Wood Design Centre Ph: (03) 6375 1478 com.au St Marys Brighton Cadburys Chocolate Launceston Hobart Ph: (03) 6372 2168 Ph: (03) 6268 1184 Factory Ph: (03) 6331 5506 Accommodation www.cadbury.com.au Lickerish Seahorse World Hobart Art Mob Meredith House www.seahorseworld. North Hobart www.artmob.com.au Swansea com.au D’Anvers Chocolate Ph: (03) 6231 9186 Hobart Ph: (03) 6257 8119 Beauty Point www.anvers- Red Velvet Lounge Devil Viewing – chocolate.com.au Cygnet Tiagarra Aboriginal Kabuki-by-the-Sea Woolnorth Tours Latrobe Ph: (03) 6295 0466 Cultural Centre www.kabukibythesea. www.woolnorthtours. Island Produce Devonport com.au com.au Moorilla Estate For more information South Hobart Ph: (03) 6424 8250 nr Swansea nr Stanley Berriedale on gay friendly Ph: (03) 6223 3233 Ph: (03) 6277 9900 Henry Jones Art Trowunna Cradle Mountain accommodation look Wildlife Park Fish Frenzy Christmas Hill Wilderness Hotel for this symbol on www.trowunna. www.fishfrenzy. Raspberry Farm Gallery www.thehenryjones. www.discover com.au com.au Elizabeth Town Cradle Mountain com tasmania.com Mole Creek Hobart Ph: (03) 6362 2186 Ph: (03) 6492 1404 Hobart Entally House Wine & Food Mures Seafood Arts & Crafts Bookshops Hiba Hadspen Restaurant www.hiba.com.au Ph: (03) 6393 6201 Wine Routes www.mures.com.au Tasmanian Museum Hobart Bookshop Bruny Island Visit: www.discover & Art Gallery Port Arthur Hobart Hobart tasmania.com Huon Bush Retreats Historic Site www.tmag.tas.gov.au Ph: (03) 6223 1803 Left Bank Café Hobart www.huonbush www.portarthur. Choux Shop Café Swansea Astrolabe Bookshop retreats.com org.au Hobart Ph: (03) 6257 8896 Queen Victoria www.astrolabebooks. Huonville Port Arthur Ph: (03) 6231 0601 Kate’s Berry Farm Museum com.au Corinda’s Cottages Coal Mines Retro Bar & www.qvmag.tas. Hobart Road C341 Swansea www.corindas Restaurant gov.au Saltwater River Ph: (03) 6257 8928 cottages.com.au Hobart Launceston Tours Hobart Hastings Caves Ph: (03) 6223 2073 Machine Café www.parks.tas.gov.au Hobart Plimsoll Gallery Vino Ventures Riseley Cottage /reserves/hastings Criterion Café Ph: (03) 6224 9922 Hobart www.vinoventures.net Dover nr Southport Hobart Ph: (03) 6226 4309 Ph: (03) 6298 1630 KAOS Café Hobart Tahune Airwalk Ph: (03) 6234 5858 Mt Paul on Freycinet Hobart Carnegie Gallery Shake a leg guided Geeveston Franklin Manor Ph: (03) 6231 5699 www.mtpaul.com Hobart Eco walking tours Ph: (03) 6297 0068 Strahan Coles Bay Rockerfellers Ph: (03) 6238 2100 Bicheno Bonorong Ph: (03) 6471 7311 www.rockerfellers. Rainbow Retreat Wildlife Park Wood Design Centre Ph: (03) 6375 1478 com.au St Marys Brighton Cadburys Chocolate Launceston Hobart Ph: (03) 6372 2168 Ph: (03) 6268 1184 Factory Ph: (03) 6331 5506 Accommodation www.cadbury.com.au Lickerish Seahorse World Hobart Art Mob Meredith House www.seahorseworld. North Hobart www.artmob.com.au Swansea com.au D’Anvers Chocolate Ph: (03) 6231 9186 Hobart Ph: (03) 6257 8119 Beauty Point www.anvers- Red Velvet Lounge Devil Viewing – chocolate.com.au Cygnet Tiagarra Aboriginal Kabuki-by-the-Sea Woolnorth Tours Latrobe Ph: (03) 6295 0466 Cultural Centre www.kabukibythesea. www.woolnorthtours. Island Produce Devonport com.au com.au Moorilla Estate For more information South Hobart Ph: (03) 6424 8250 nr Swansea nr Stanley Berriedale on gay friendly Ph: (03) 6223 3233 Ph: (03) 6277 9900 Henry Jones Art Trowunna Cradle Mountain accommodation look Wildlife Park Fish Frenzy Christmas Hill Wilderness Hotel for this symbol on www.trowunna. www.fishfrenzy. Raspberry Farm Gallery www.thehenryjones. www.discover com.au com.au Elizabeth Town Cradle Mountain com tasmania.com Mole Creek Hobart Ph: (03) 6362 2186 Ph: (03) 6492 1404 Hobart