Tullos Hill Archaeology

A Guide to the History, Archaeology and Natural History of Tullos Hill Archaeology

Tullos Hill, along with adjacent Kincorth Hill, together form part of the very lowest coastal fringe of the Grampian Mountains – hence the cherished local name ‘the Gramps’. Not only are the two hills alike in character, being higher, wilder, more ‘natural’ landscapes in the midst of conurbation, but they also share a great deal in terms of archaeology and early history. Their more recent histories diverge, however, with Kincorth Hill being heavily exploited by quarrying and encroached upon by housing developments, while Tullos Hill, having first supported a Second World War Anti- Aircraft Battery and Prisoner of War Camp, was then affected by industrial sprawl and Excavation at Bronze Age ring cairn, 2010 © CFA Archaeology Ltd landfill operations. Despite and because of some of that, Tullos Hill, like Kincorth Hill, Cat Cairn, Baron’s Cairn, Crab’s Cairn is rich in evidence of the past. and Tullos Cairn have only borne those particular names for some 200 years, but It is evident that human beings have have in essence survived for around been active in this general area for at 4 millennia, despite changes of the Introduction The name Tullos probably derives from least 10000 years. The earliest and nearest surrounding land from rough ground to the Gaelic word for hill, as do many other tangible traces date from the Mesolithic cultivated fields to wartime strongpoint Tullos Hill represents a fantastic resource place names in what are today known period, around 8000 to 6000 BC and are and most recently to industrial zone. for the people of Aberdeen. Aside from as the Grampian Hills. Torry, Tullos and in the form of a collection of sea-shells Very striking are the results of a survey of being an excellent venue for walking Tollohill probably all mean hill, whilst found in a midden of food remains Tullos Hill commissioned by Aberdeen and other healthy exercise, it comprises nearby Kincorth derives from Gaelic words and other organic rubbish left on the City Council and undertaken by CFA some of the most startling archaeology, meaning high place. shore by hunters and gatherers, who Archaeology Ltd in 2004, in which history and natural history in the City. The probably had a seasonal camp nearby. around 120 previously unrecognised landscape of Tullos Hill bears imprints of The midden was identified on the Bay of archaeological features, were identified diverse periods of human activity, from Nigg shoreline some years ago. Flint tools, on the part of the hill which had not been the Mesolithic period to the Medieval hearths, buildings and other vestiges of affected by landfill. Further survey work era and up to the Second World War. human activity have been found in many associated with vegetation clearance prior This leaflet seeks to introduce the varied areas along the banks of the River Dee, to tree planting in 2012 revealed even natural history and archaeology of the Hill. indicating that this fertile valley was richly more features, reaching a current total of exploited by our prehistoric ancestors. 201. The features recorded in 2004 and Above: Aerial view of Tullos Hill 2012 range from probable prehistoric field Right: Open Day at community archaeological The importance of Tullos Hill as a place boundaries and dwellings to additional excavation of burial in the Bronze Age has long been prehistoric and later cairns to hut bases All images are © Aberdeen City Council unless known and is marked by the continued associated with the Second World War otherwise stated existence there of substantial stone cairns. Anti-Aircraft Battery and Prisoner of War

2 2 3 History extensive moor, marsh and rocky barren The historical evidence for Tullos Hill soils of the lands. begins in the later 12th century. In the closing years of that century the church Following the Reformation of 1560, in the Bay of Nigg (the now ruined St control of Tullos Hill passed out of the Fittick’s) and the lands from the mouth of hands of the church. Eventually, following the River Dee down to Cove, so including a number of changes, all of the lands Tullos Hill, were given by King William from the mouth of the Dee down to the Lion to the Abbot of the Abbey Cove became split between the town of of Arbroath. The Abbot remained the Aberdeen and the Menzies family, the feudal superior of these lands until the Lairds of Pitfodels. A number of disputes Reformation in 1560. arose between these two parties due to the archaic system of land holding that From the 12th century onwards we can was in operation at the time: run rig. trace the development of life in this area. This meant that each of the two main The main settlements developed closer to land owners did not hold their lands in the mouth of the Dee in the form of the anything like one or two large and fairly Above: Excavation of gun emplacement site Below: Aerial photograph of gun emplacements from south, 1946 villages of Upper and Lower Torry. Tullos self contained parcels of land, but rather Camp. Some of the lived while farming Hill does not seem to have been settled one owned one field and the other the cairns are certainly the surrounding during the Medieval period. Although next, resulting in a large amount of likely to be burial land. The other some limited farming was undertaken on litigation between the two parties. cairns, part of the was a further burial parts of the Hill, much of the land was not same Bronze Age cairn, which may amenable to agricultural development. Bay of Nigg from Tullos Hill with St Fittick’s Church cemetery as the have contained A document dated 1281 mentions the right of centre more well-known cremated bone cairns mentioned from a funeral pyre above, while at that spot. others relate to clearance of ground At present there for cultivation in is little evidence prehistoric or of human activity later periods. in the area under discussion between Two short seasons of later prehistory and excavation directed the 12th century by CFA Archaeology, AD. There is one in 2010 and 2012, exception in the and involving large numbers of local form of part of a solid silver chain, often volunteers, focused on two of the recently described as ‘Pictish’ and dating from discovered features, both of which were about the 7th century, which was found in found to be of prehistoric, probably the 18th century by a farmer in the nearby Bronze Age date. One was a hut circle, Bay of Nigg. Containing 95% silver this the foundation of a substantial stone and was obviously a high status object and wooden building or roundhouse in which hints at a continuity of human activity in the first residents of Tullos Hill would have the wider area.

4 4 5 Survey of area by George Brown, 1777 Above: Detail of Tullos Hill from George Brown’s Survey of 1777 At any rate it was clear that this system being Tullos. In total Morrice paid a feu was untenable and could not continue duty of £42 8s and 46 bolls of oatmeal for Right: Ness Farm prior to demolition, indefinitely. Ultimately an Act of Parliament all three plots. This feu contained what was courtesy of Ethel Stewart was necessary to solve the conundrum. estimated to be only 100 acres of arable By the terms of the Act the proprietors land compared to some 250 acres of hill The 20th century brought could appeal to a third party who, by and moor land, which in itself bears out further considerable changes arbitration and independent consultation, the suggestions that the land was largely to Tullos Hill. An industrial would more logically divide the lands. uninhabitable in the Medieval period. estate on the seaward side This resulted in a number of highly of the Hill was developed detailed plans and maps of the area being Morrice was, however, a seminal figure in in the last decades of the drawn up. One of the best of those is still the development of Tullos Hill as we see 20th century whilst earlier preserved in the City Archives and is by it today. He planted trees and employed on the Second World War George Brown, dated 1777. It is thoroughly modern farming techniques to create had changed the landscape invaluable for any history of the area which farmed fields on the Hill. The consumption of the Hill. Some of the land might be undertaken. Then in 1785, after dykes relate to this process whilst the of one of the 19th century due deliberation, the lands were divided. descendants of his trees are still to be farms, Peterseat, was adapted The town got all the lands to the east with seen today. Whilst there had been a to become an Anti-Aircraft Menzies getting what was on the west. modest amount of farming on the hill in Battery, and subsequently a Medieval times, the agricultural revolution Prisoner of War Camp. In the In 1786 the town council feued out their allowed more land to be cultivated and so middle decades of the 20th share of these lands in nine lots. Three of farming began on a wider scale on the Hill. century the Hill became home these feus were secured by David Morrice, Peterseat and Ness Farms, which survived to a landfill site. an advocate in Aberdeen. Two plots were into the 20th century, owe their origins to called Middleton and Altens and the last this process.

6 6 7 Tullos Cairn 6 In some ways the most impressive of the prehistoric burial cairns on Tullos Hill, being 20 metres in diameter and 2.5 metres high, it is unusual in being not on the skyline, but in a slightly terraced area on the north-west facing slope of the hill. There are a number of small field clearance cairns nearby, which may relate to prehistoric or later attempts at agriculture on this relatively protected side of the hill, where it is likely that the cairn builders may also have farmed and Tullos Cairn © George Wilson lived. The shape of the cairn has been Around 200 historic and archaeological Bronze Age ring cairn cleared for excavation, 2010 altered at various times in the recent and Cairn, all of which probably date from features have been identified on Tullos © CFA Archaeology Ltd more distant past. around the 2nd millenium BC. There has Hill. Listed here and shown on Map 1 never been any archaeological excavation is a selection of more visible features excavation, it is not possible to determine Baron’s Cairn of this cairn, but it may originally have and groups. the period when this activity took place, 9 covered the burial place of a prominent but it may date from prehistoric to This is one of the most noticeable of the member of society. Its shape has been Crab’s Cairn Medieval times. Fire damage on the Hill Bronze age burial cairns on Tullos Hill: altered over the ages, most recently when 1 during 2005 made many of these features its elevated position demonstrates the it was used as a look-out post during the This is the least visible and robust of the more visible, and also demonstrated just importance of these features as landmarks Second World War – remnants of brick long-identified group of Bronze Age burial how stone-laden this ground is, without throughout the ages. It is part of a readily and concrete structures can be seen on cairns on Tullos Hill, which also includes its covering of vegetation. visible surviving group, which also and near the cairn. Tullos Cairn, Cat Cairn and Baron’s Cairn. includes Crab’s Cairn, Cat Cairn and Tullos Baron’s Cairn It is said to have been damaged during Tullos Hill Burial Cairns the Second World War and again through 3, 8, 14, 18 some of the landfill work in the area. What In addition to the well-known and it does retain to some extent is its striking relatively obvious cairns on Tullos Hill, position, with clear visibility between a number of other possible prehistoric it and both Cat Cairn and Baron’s Cairn burial cairns have been noticed on the – a placing in the landscape which was Hill over the years, most recently during obviously important to its original builders the archaeological survey in 2004. Among some 3500 or so years ago. the more striking and visible of these is 8. Measuring about 13 x 11 metres and some Tullos Hill Field Clearance Cairns 2 metres in height, it is distinguishable 2, 4, 5, 7, 17, 23 from other natural mounds nearby The field survey of Tullos Hill in 2004 because of the stones which protrude revealed several areas where small heaps from its cover of vegetation. of stone, sometimes turf-covered, may be evidence of early attempts at clearing rough ground to make it suitable for cultivation. Without archaeological

8 8 9 Peterseat Anti-Aircraft Battery This page: and Prisoner of War Camp Top: Photograph of Prisoner of War Camp taken by a prisoner, Karl Roth Right: Postcard sent home by 10, 11, 12 prisoner Below right: Group of prisoners working on This World War II Anti-Aircraft Battery was construction of pre-fabricated houses converted and used as a German Prisoner Below left: Karl Roth visiting Hazlehead Park of War Camp from 1945-48. Concrete hut bases adjacent to the main path on Opposite page: the summit of Tullos Hill (10) are the only Top: Map showing Prisoner of War Camp, 1940s Middle: Karl Roth’s kitbag Opposite lower: Karl Roth remains of the camp now visible above ground. Three had been visible for some years, but archaeological work associated with installation of a gas venting trench in 2009 revealed several others, which had been buried during landfill operations. It was possible to record them in some detail, including the little paths that had been laid out between the huts. An excavation in the lower ground to east, towards the industrial development (11,12), uncovered the remains of some of the eight gun emplacements, and the concrete floors of two buildings, one of which was a command post. Following the excavation, archaeologists contacted Karl Roth, a former Prisoner of War who resided at the camp from 4 September 1945 until January 10th 1948. He shared his memories of the camp and of the people of Torry.

10 10 11 Map 1

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Site of Anti-aircraft Battery Site of Peterseat Prisoner of War Camp Consumption Dykes Cairn excavated 2010 and 2012 13, 15, 19, 20, 21, 22 14 These distinctive drystone field This was recorded during the 2004 boundaries are very characteristic of survey as a broadly circular patch of the landscape of North-East Scotland, stones largely concealed by bracken and although similar features are known from other vegetation and it was excavated other areas, including New England. There in 2010 and 2012, to confirm the initial are over 100 recorded in Aberdeen alone, identification as a burial place or ring cairn. of which several fine examples survive It was found to contain some cremated on Tullos Hill. They are in essence simply human bone, for which radiocarbon walls which have been built excessively analysis suggests a date within the 2nd large in height or width, to ‘consume’ millenium BC. An interesting discovery stones which have been cleared out of within the upper levels of stone was a the fields to make the ground suitable for German 5 Pfennig piece of the 1930s, agriculture. In many cases, great care has which may derive from the Prisoner of War been taken to make them aesthetically Camp period. pleasing as well as practical. The examples on Tullos Hill are related to land Cat Cairn improvements by David Morrice, owner of 16 Cat Cairn Hut Circles Tullos House in the early 19th century. Like several of the other well-preserved 25, 26 The dyke marked 13 on Map 1 also burial cairns on Tullos Hill this example its prehistoric builders. It has probably These two sub-circular ‘shapes’ were contains part of what has been identified boasts a wide-ranging view over the Vale become rather flatter in shape over time, first recorded during the archaeological as another Bronze Age burial cairn, which of Tullos and maintains the intervisibility as is hardly surprising considering its survey in 2004 as possible remnants is a scheduled ancient monument. with Baron’s Cairn and Crab’s Cairn proximity to a highly populated area. A of foundations of timber dwellings, or Consumption dyke which would have been important to possible platform survives on its north and roundhouses of prehistoric date. The south sides. Construction of round cairns opportunity to check that identification such as these probably dates to around came with the excavations of 2010 and the beginning of the 2nd millennium 2012, in which number 26 was one of the BC. They marked the location of burials, sites targeted. Excavation revealed that it sometimes in elaborately made stone- was indeed a hut circle, with the stoney lined graves or ‘cists’. bank on which the walls would have been founded quite well preserved, along Field Boundaries with some internal features. A quite large 24 quantity of associated pottery, as well as The archaeological surveys of this area radiocarbon analysis, dated the feature west of the landfill revealed an extremely to the Bronze Age. A structure such as intense and sometimes intercutting this could have had more than one floor pattern of historic features, ranging in and accommodated an extended family date from prehistory to more recent around 3000-4000 years ago. Number 25, times. They include boundaries and banks which has not been subject to excavation, of various types, trackways and field measures about 13x12 metres in diameter. clearance cairns, the earliest of which Numerous stones are embedded in the may relate to the periods of Bronze Age bank, which is less obvious towards the farming represented by the burial cairns south east, where it is possible that the and hut circles. entrance lay.

14 14 15 ■ Scrub & Woodland ■ New Woodland Footpaths ■ Rough Grassland ■ Heathland

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d Estate Cat Map 2 250m Cairn ■ Scrub & Woodland ■ Rough Grassland Tullos House Tullos House, courtesy of ■ New Woodland ■ Heathland Mrs Manson Norith Footpaths Ness Land ll Area 27 David Morrice, successful advocate of Aberdeen, who had built up a large Wildlife of Tullos Hill look out for meadow brown butterflies. fortune, in part by representing bodies In some areas, dame’s violet, the pinky/ such as the town council, acquired several There is a variety of habitats on Tullos white flowered garden escape manages lots of Tullos Hill and the surrounding Hill. This means there is a rich and varied to grow. Mice and voles create networks area in 1786. He had Tullos House built wildlife living on the of tunnels at the base of for himself, probably completing it before site. These habitats the grasses. This in turn 1810. It was demolished in the period include rough grassland, Dooniesattracts birds of prey following the Second World War, to make Grheathland,anite scrub City and Forest Fasuchrm as kestrels and way for industrial development woodland. tawny owls. Kestrels are easy to spot as they hover There were no trees on the feu when Rough Grassland over the site looking for Morrice took possession of it: however The rough grassland their food. Tawny owls he embarked on a policy of planting on areas of Tullos Hill have are occasionally seen. Tullos Hill. He planted Scots pine, larch, a limited range of plant The best time to see oak, alder, birch, mountain ash and elm. species growing in them. them is early evening and The plantation failed on the seaward side The rough grassland is around dawn. Buzzards as well as on the summit. In an article dominated by vigorous, are also common flying written for the Aberdeen Journal in 1896 it were ‘somewhat tortuous and scarcely tall growing grasses, over the site looking for was said that this plantation was largely perceptible footpaths – faint trails they which outcompete other insects and small animals still there, and was described as ‘luxuriant’. might be called, which one would almost species for water, light to feed on. However as to the extent of the growth require to have the training of an Indian and nutrients. A few butterflies do feed and the paths, it was also written that they tracker to follow…’ on these grasses; on a sunny summer day Above: Thistle

16 16 17 Hover Fly Red Admiral Toad Common Blue Damselfly

Common Blue Heathland Bumble Bee Heathland is a relatively species rich These all flower in late summer creating a habitat dominated by heather. Historically purple haze across parts of the Hill. Many much more of the site would probably insects depend on the heathland habitat. have been heathland but changes in land In the wetter areas where there can be use for agriculture over the centuries and pools of water look out for dragonflies and more recent landfilling operations have damselflies in the summer. The pools destroyed much of this habitat. are also home to frogs, toads and newts, Heathland thrives in areas where the soil is which feed on small insects in the naturally slightly acidic and the nutrient water. In the drier areas a range of bees, levels are low. Three kinds of heather are hoverflies and moths are found. Skylarks found on Tullos Hill, common heather and meadow pipits perform amazing (Calluna vulgaris), cross-leaved heath (Erica aerial displays overhead as they sing tetralix) and bell heather (Erica cinerea). overhead on warm sunny summer days.

Rough grassland Heathland 18 18 19 Above: Guided walk on Tullos Hill Right: Northern Marsh Orchid Scots pine, Norway spruce, larch, sycamore, wild cherry, New woodland hazel, wych elm, ash, oak, Scrub and woodland In 2012 about 30 hectares of blackthorn and hawthorn. The Scrub and woodland Tullos Hill was planted with mix of trees will make a good In the springtime, the scrub and woodland in the woodland areas. If you are lucky, a mix of broad-leaved and feeding and breeding habitat come alive with small birds singing as they you may hear a great spotted wood- coniferous woodland. The for red squirrels, bats, many claim their nesting territories. Look out for pecker drumming on one of the mature trees were planted in areas woodland birds and larger chiffchaffs, blackcaps and willow warblers. beech trees. that were either rough grass animals such as roe deer. The chiffchaff says its own name when it or gorse scrub. As this new calls and the male blackcap has a black Gorse is widespread across Tullos Hill and woodland develops, it will This new woodland is one of cap to its head. These nest in the bushes is unusual in that it flowers in almost every become a haven for wildlife the 60 Diamond Woodlands and in long grass. These birds visit the UK month of the year. It flowers most in the as most of the trees planted planted across the UK in Her to breed; they spend the winter in Africa. springtime, when the scent of coconut are native to Scotland or are Majesty The Queen’s Diamond Resident birds such as robins, blackbirds from the flowers can fill the air. good for our native wildlife. Jubilee year and promoted by song thrushes, great tits and blue tits nest The mix of trees includes the Woodland Trust.

Willow Warbler Hawthorn flower Aberdeen from Tullos Hill 20 20 21 Above and below: views of the fully restored Ness The Legacy of Landfill Farm Landfill site.

Waste management has long been improvements. Aberdeen City Council an activity in the area in the form of has invested £17 million into this work. landfill sites at Tullos Hill and Ness Farm; This expenditure has taught us an encompassing 15 and 49 hectares important lesson about the need for more respectively and accommodating an sustainable waste management practices. estimated 3 million tonnes of waste Disposing of waste in landfill both over a 40 year period. The site stopped prevents valuable materials from being accepting waste in 2001 and over the used again and leaves behind pollution last 12 years activity has been focused on for future generations. Problems such as restoration, comprising capping of the site contaminated water and methane gas using a geosynthetic composite cap to production mean that such sites require prevent water getting into the waste, new ongoing monitoring and pollution drainage, tree planting and path prevention measures for decades to come.

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A Guide to the History, Archaeology and Natural History of Tullos Hill is one of a series of themed trails being developed around the City. Further details about these trails can be found at: www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/trails & at www.aagm.co.uk For further information contact 03000 200 293 [email protected] www.aagm.co.uk Ranger Service 01224 897400 or [email protected] www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/rangerservice Aberdeen Information Centre 01224 269180 www.visitscotland.com/destinations-maps/ aberdeen-city-shire For public transport information contact Travel Line www.travelinescotland.com For a large text version contact 03000 200 293