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Pocket Book for the Leather Technologist Fourth Edition, Revised and Enlarged

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Pocket Book for the Leather Technologist Fourth Edition, Revised and Enlarged Pocket Book for the Leather Technologist Fourth edition, revised and enlarged BASF Aktiengesellschaft 67056 Ludwigshafen Germany Preface In this fourth edition of our Pocket Book for the Leather Technologist, the content was carefully revised and updated. Two new chapters “Leather goods” and “Fur” were added. The chapter “First aid” was cancelled. Please use the appropriate medical literature if you need information on this issue. We have updated the information on the properties, use and nature of our products for the leather industry. The principal methods used in leather production are briefly described. The information given in the chapter on types of raw skins is intended to serve only as a guide. The chapter “Safety and Environmental Protection” was completely revised and supplemented by detailed information on the safety data sheet. We hope that this carefully revised and enlarged edition will meet with the same approval as the preceding editions and that the practical tanner and others interested in the leather business will find this volume a helpful and rapid source of reference for the variety of products that we offer for the production of leather. Nevertheless, it is possible that you may have some further questions. We have issued a range of publications that contain further information on a variety of topics. More detailed information on our products is con- tained in our pattern cards and Technical Information leaflets with exam- ples of application. Our technical staff will be pleased to advise you personally on any queries that you may have. Visit us also at: http://www.basf.com/leather 3 In presenting this pocket book, we cannot claim to serve in any but an advisory capacity and can undertake no liability. The names of our products are, as a rule, registered trade marks. No significance may be attached to the absence of a sign to this effect against any product mentioned in this book. We know of no ill effects that could have resulted from using the BASF products mentioned in this book for the purpose for which they are inten- ded and from processing them in accordance with current practice. According to the experience we have gained up to now and other infor- mation at our disposal, our products do not exert any harmful effects on health, provided that they are used properly, due attention is given to the precautions necessary for handling chemicals and the information and advice given in our Safety Data Sheets are observed. 5 Contents Coloured pages Colour Chapter Page white Contents 7 yellow Raw skin – Pickling 17 green Tanning/retanning 81 red Emulsifiers – Fatliquoring – Dyeing – Drying 129 blue Finishing 173 yellow Leather goods – Fur – Test methods 209 green Indicators – Weight and area – 273 Safety and environmental protection red Measures and weights – Chemical compounds 313 blue Density – Technical Literature – Addresses 369 white Index ••• 6 Contents Raw skin 17 Structure of skin and hair 17 Amino acids 18 Bridge linkages in proteins 20 Physical and chemical properties of collagen and keratin 22 Diagram of hide sections 25 Diagram of hide sections for the tanner 26 Substance of raw hide 27 Rawstock 28 Common rawstock terms 28 Principal raw hide and skin defects 29 Commercial classification of hides and skins 30 A. Cattle hides, calf skins, sheep skins, goat skins 30 Germany (similar to Switzerland, Austria) 30 International raw stock and leather market 32 Other European countries 33 North America 33 South America 34 North Africa 35 South Africa 36 West Africa/East Africa 37 Asia Minor/China 38 Japan/India, Pakistan 39 Thailand/Indonesia 41 Australia 42 New Zealand 43 B. Pig skins 44 C. Fish skins 44 D. Reptiles 44 E. Other types of hides and skins 45 Raw stock inventories; production of raw hides and skins 46 7 Contents Curing and disinfection of raw hides and skins 48 Water 50 Principal substances contained in water 50 Water hardness 50 Water softening 53 Vessels for the beamhouse 56 Flow chart from raw stock to production of pelts 57 Soaking 58 Methods of accelerating soaking 58 BASF soaking auxiliaries 59 Depilation, opening up the skin 60 The most commonly used depilation and liming methods 60 Chemicals for depilation and liming 63 Liming and painting auxiliaries 68 Deliming 70 BASF deliming agents 70 Definition of deliming value, buffering capacity, lime dissolving value 71 Strength comparison of BASF deliming agents 72 Other deliming agents 73 Bating 74 Enzymes in bating agents 74 BASF bating agents 75 8 Contents Degreasing 76 Degreasing methods 76 The most commonly used degreasing agents 77 BASF degreasing agents 77 Pickling of pelts 78 Pickling methods 78 Pickling acids 79 Theoretically corresponding parts by weight of various acids and deliming agents 80 Tanning and retanning 81 Purpose of tanning 81 Cross-linking reactions between skin substance and tanning agents 82 Shrinking temperature of hide and leather 83 Tanning methods 84 Amounts of tanning agent required for various types of leather 85 Vegetable tanning 86 Structure of vegetable tanning agents 86 Vegetable tanning materials 87 Vegetable tannin extracts (liquid, solid, powder) 91 BASF products supporting vegetable tanning 93 Mineral tanning 94 Structure of mineral tanning agents 94 BASF mineral tanning agents 94 Amounts of mineral tanning agents in % for x % Cr2O3 and Al2O3 96 Other mineral tanning salts 97 Basicity98 Masking of chrome tanning agents 100 Reduced chrome liquors prepared from potassium or sodium dichromate 101 9 Contents Special BASF tanning auxiliaries 103 Flow chart of chrome leather tanning 104 Other tanning methods 105 Wet white tannage 105 Selected BASF products for wet white leather 105 Important parameters in wet white tanning 107 Flow chart of wet white tanning 108 Oil tannage 108 Neutralization (deacidification) of leather 109 Purpose/procedure 109 Neutralizing agents (general) 110 Theoretically corresponding parts by weight of various alkalis and neutralizing agents 111 BASF neutralizing agents 112 Retanning 113 Structures of aromatic and aliphatic retanning agents 113 Some basic constituents of synthetic tanning agents 114 BASF synthetic tanning and retanning agents 115 Polymeric retanning agents 117 Resin tanning agents 118 BASF aldehyde tanning agents 119 BASF oil tanning agents 119 Tanning and retanning auxiliaries 120 Bleaching and fixation 121 Bleaching methods 121 BASF bleach-tanning agents and bleaching auxiliaries 122 Fixing agents for vegetable tannins and syntans 122 Loading agents 122 10 Contents Tanner’s tools 123 Tannery machines 124 Tanning/retanning – Glossary 126 Emulsifiers and wetting agents 129 Chemical classification 129 Emulsion types 129 The main BASF emulsifiers and wetting agents for the leather and fur industries 130 Fatliquoring 131 The principal basic fatliquoring substances 131 Characteristic values of the main fatty substances 132 Classification of leather fatliquoring products 136 Fatliquoring methods 136 BASF fatliquor range 137 Analysis of leather fatliquoring agents 140 General structure of fatliquors 143 Courses of reaction in the production of fatliquors 144 Composition of natural oils and fats 145 Percentages of fatty acids in some oils and fats 146 Water-repellent treatment of leather 147 The main water-repellents (general) 147 BASF water-repellents 148 Drum Dyeing 150 Colour spectrum 150 Chromatic triangle for colour matching 151 CIE chromaticity diagram 152 CIELAB colour system 154 11 Contents Classification of leather dyes 155 BASF products for drum dyeing 156 Selected Lurazol and Luganil Dyes with particularly good penetration 161 BASF basic dyes 161 Dyeing auxiliaries 162 Dyeing methods 164 Parameters of dyeing in the production of high-quality leathers 165 Through-feed dyeing machine 168 Drying 169 Drying methods for leather 169 Air humidity170 Machines for dry finishing – operating principles 171 Flow chart of processes from wet blue to finishing 172 Finishing 173 Classification of finishes 173 General structure of finish 175 Leather finishes and dyes 176 Brightening dyes 176 BASF dyes for spraying, curtain coating and printing, and for shading finishes 176 Pigment colours 177 BASF pigment preparations 178 Thermoplastic binders 180 The main basic substances for the production of polymer binders 182 Base coating agents and binders 183 Top coats and laquers 193 BASF finishing auxiliaries 196 12 Contents Solvents and diluents used in finishing 200 Finishing machines 202 Terms applied to some types of leather 205 Leather goods 209 Shoe leather 209 Automotive leather 211 Upholstery leather 213 Garment leather 215 Fur 217 Fur skin, general 217 Fur dressing 218 BASF products for fur dressing 218 Fur dyeing 222 BASF products for fur dyeing 223 Nappalan – flesh side finishing 226 Leather testing methods 227 IUC/IUP-methods 227 ALCA analytical methods compared to ASTM methods 232 Preparation of samples for analysis 234 Calculation and evaluation of test results 237 Quality requirements for the main types of leather 242 Testing of leather dyes and leather dyeings 252 IUF methods 252 Testing of leather dyes 255 Testing of dye solutions 256 Testing of leather dyeings 258 Testing of leather finishes 264 Important dimensions for analytics 271 Suppliers of standard test methods 272 13 Contents Indicators, pH Value 273 pH Value 273 Common indicators 274 Determining the charge on leather surfaces with charge indicator 276 Charge relations on pelts and leathers 277 Relations between weight, area and yield in leather production 278 Weight designations used in leather production
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