HAITITHUMB DIRECTORY TAB you expect tohave breakfast thrownin.Even rule, only inmidrange places andabove can room irrespective of occupancy.As ageneral places you’lljustbe quoted aflatrate forthe the text. Pricesare fordoubles,butinmany come withprivate bathroomunlessnoted in and topendasanythingabove this.Rooms as uptoUS$40,midrange asupto US$80 beds on offer. therethough isoften ashortage of midrange accommodation foryou,al- to findtheright Cap-Haïtien andJacmel. Youshould beable widest choice of available options,alongwith Port-au-Princenaturallyhasthe in between. sorts tocomplete fleapits,witheverything in Haiti, fromtop-endhotels andbeach re- ofMost levels accommodation are available CONTENTS Directory Haiti 342 © LonelyPlanetPublications ACCOMMODATIONS oe rvlr 351 350 350 Work 351 Women Travelers Visas 350 349 Travelers withDisabilities 347 Toilets 350 347 Tourist Information Time 350 Shopping 349 Post 349 Photography &Video 347 345 Money 348 Maps 348 Legal Matters 343 345 Internet Access 344 343 Insurance 347 Holidays 347 Gay &Lesbian Travelers Festivals &Events Embassies &Consulates Dangers &Annoyances Customs 344 Climate Charts Business Hours 343 Activities Telephone 349 Food 347 Accommodations 342 In theHaiti guidewehave definedbudget phere. facilitiesare Bathroom invariably together togive sociable atmos- ahighly ing breakfast anddinner,which are eaten rates areStandard aroundUS$35,includ- hotels, attached. withamodestpricetag workers. Theyoffer ahomeyalternative to visiting church groups,volunteers andaid thatcatervate primarilyto guesthouses Port-au-Prince hasanumberof smallpri- Guesthouses to the bill. also includethe10%government added tax where possible. Midrange andtop-endrates the dailyrate, includedinthepriceslisted an electricitysurcharge of US$5toUS$10 hours.them duringdaylight Many hotels add own generators, iftheydon’talwaysrun even while more expensive placestend tohave their budget you justhave level torideoutthecut, cuts canbebothfrequent andlong.Atthe torch (orcandles) isrecommended. Power this price range. air-conditioning more above orlessstandard nigh onimpossible. Theonlylikelynigh options everywhere inHaiti, findingaprivate pitch is in theextreme. Ontopof this,withpeople undercanvaseccentric sleeping voluntarily and mostHaitians wouldfindtheideaof Pitching atent isn’treally anoptioninHaiti, possible. where groups, bookinginadvanceisrecommended erate curfews. night As theycater tovisiting Christian ethicattached, andsometimesop- shared. placesusuallyhave These astrong Camping cheap hotels usuallyhave aceilingfan, with Whatever youpitch level for,bringinga ent. Bestof all,youcanbook online. to stay.Reviewsare thoroughand independ- the true,insiderlowdown onthebestplaces www.lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’llfind at service check outtheonlinebooking ommendations byLonelyPlanetauthors, For more accommodation reviews andrec- BOOK YOURSTAY ONLINE HAITI DIRECTORY mm 300 225 150 75 0 343 Average Max/Min Rainfall JFMAMJJASOND 50 86 68 32 104 28m (95ft) 0 9 6 3 in 12 Temp JFMAMJJASOND 0 20 30 10 40 °C °F PORT-AU-PRINCE weekdays. Shops and offices usually open at weekdays. Shops 7am and close at 4pm weekdays, but many also close are most shops earlier on Friday; are offices open on Saturday. Government open 7am to 4pm weekdays, closing for an quiet, with many hour at noon. Sunday is very businesses closed. and most restaurants CLIMATE CHARTS tempera- steady enjoys pretty Tropical Haiti The main varia- throughout the year. tures by tion is due to altitude – while you’ll get It’s possible to go scuba diving and snor- It’s possible to go scuba des Arcadins, where along the Côte keling is good sea as well as along the life, there mountainous terrain Atlantic coast. Haiti’s from lends itself drive well to hiking. A short National La and Visite Port-au-Prince, Parc good National Forêt des Pins both offer Parc country, with superb views and cool trekking ornitho- also Both are to explore. pine forests will be amply rewarded Birders logically rich. by a visit to Trou Caïman wild Parc and the National Macaya. BUSINESS HOURS 1pm usually open from 8:30am to Banks are central the more weekdays, but some of 2pm to 5pm also open from are branches of them along the Côte des Arcadins north north des Arcadins Côte along the them of all-inclusive, Prices are Port-au-Prince. of and restaurants bars a couple of usually with sports and to choose along with water from, the week, during If you arrive other activities. them to yourself, while have you’ll virtually the city’s well-heeled inhabitants descend en at weekends. masse ACTIVITIES isn’t a hugely to the DR, Haiti Compared Instead, destination. activity-centered rich itself becomes the activ- in Haiti traveling good options a few are ity. However, there focus for your trip. if you want a particular
(for ‘next!’), (Creole). (Creole). Le Nouvelliste, Le
suivants Libète and Le Matin, Le (has an English section), section), (has an English DIRECTORY HAITI •• Activities
International press is available in is available in press International Port-au-Prince. gasoline is sold in gallons. Radio Soleil and Radio Ibo. French and and French Radio and Radio Soleil Ibo. US TV Haiti available on satellite/cable. as the uses the same electrical system (110 to 125 volts AC, USA and Canada plugs). Power cuts 60 Hz, flat-pronged with the sound of ubiquitous, along are generators. Haiti Progrés Haiti en Marche
although system, Haiti uses the metric Radio stations include Radio Haiti Inter, Newspapers:
PRACTICALITIES PRACTICALITIES At the other end of the market, wi-fi ac- wi-fi the market, At the other end of
Room rates don’t change according to according to don’t change Room rates At the budget end, hotels can be dreary, can be dreary, end, hotels At the budget
extent they do in the DR, but there are a string are they do in the DR, but there extent Resorts Resorts to the in Haiti Beach don’t feature resorts during Carnival, for example – prices go up with demand. cess is becoming more standard. Expect good cess is becoming more supply. Most and a decent electricity fixtures attached restaurants have all ranges of hotels rare. are Mosquito nets or bars. though the turnover of guests means that guests means that of though the turnover and regularly cleaned more their rooms are hotels. comparative efficiently than night. Known locally as friendly, al- not particularly female they’re room rates quoted by the hour rather than the quoted room rates although we’ve tried to pick the best of the tried to pick the best of although we’ve double as brothels, with Some hotels bunch. tle expensive, particularly in the midrange particularly in the midrange tle expensive, not even at this price you’re where bracket, hot water. always guaranteed While hotels in Haiti come in all stripes, in come in all stripes, in Haiti While hotels a lit- comparison to the DR rooms can feel Hotels Hotels the extensive grounds of Ranch grounds of Le Moncel the extensive ). p310 Port-au-Prince ( on the slopes above that you be completely self-sufficient.that you be completely We in the country, in found just one campsite are for full-on expeditions, such as in Parc as in Parc such for full-on expeditions, are demands the terrain where National Macaya, lonelyplanet.com season, although at peak times – Jacmel season, although– Jacmel at peak times HAITI DIRECTORY gars. Customs inspections can be vigorous. liquor andonecarton of cigarettes or50ci- plants oranimals. Youcanbringin1Lof export of ancient artifactsandendangered of live animals,weaponsanddrugs, andthe countries, withrestrictions ontheimport Customs regulations are similartomost CUSTOMS sometimes blowstrongly into November. thewindsAugust toOctober, although roads due torough and mudslides. rural areas after heavy canbedifficult rains shower capstokeep hairdosdry!Travel in umbrellassuddenly appearingselling and for abruptly, soare easytoworkaround.Look March. tend tofallheavily butstop Rains north iswetter November between and south more orlessfollowssuit,whilethe to November, fordrierJuly.The easingoff au-Prince gets mostof April itsrainbetween on yourlocationandthetimeof year. Port- humidity ismore likely tobe a problem. anextralayer.you’ll need Alongthecoast, temperatures chill cantake onaslight and interior climbingintothemountainous start mostofwith shortsleeves thetime,onceyou 344 Hurricane season traditionallyrunsfrom Hurricane season variesgreatly, anddepends both Rainfall dren canfindmore informationthrough ittotheirembassy. know thenationalityofperpetrator,report tion ofchildren canbereported. theincidenttolocalauthoritiesandifyou Youcanalsoreport gender orsexualorientation. the rightsofchildren tobefree fromabuseandexploitationwithoutregard torace,religion, www.ecpat.org) ignore suspiciousbehavior. the exploitationhappenedintheirhomecountry. countries have enacted extraterritorial legislation thatallowstravelers tobecharged asthough human rights. advantageoftheirvulnerableposition. sexual exploitation,andsometouristschoosetotake the DominicanRepublicandHaiti.Various children make socioeconomicfactors susceptibleto Tragically, theexploitationoflocalchildren bytouristsisbecomingmore prevalent throughout PREVENTING CHILD-SEX TOURISMINTHEDOMINICANREPUBLIC&HAITI New York. issues withover 70affiliate organizations islocated aroundtheworld.The USheadquarters in marchands AT IETR • Csos ••Customs HAITI DIRECTORY Travelers interested inlearning more abouthowtofightagainstsexualexploitationofchil- Responsible travelers can help stop child-sex tourism by reporting it. It is important nottoResponsible travelers it.Itisimportant canhelpstopchild-sextourismbyreporting The DominicanRepublicandHaitihave lawsagainstsexualexploitationofchildren. Many Sexual exploitationhasserious,lifelong effects onchildren. Itisacrimeandviolationof Beyond Borders ECPAT –USA . (female street vendors) ( % ( 718 9359192;www.ecpatusa.org) www.beyondborders.org) Cybertipline Cybertipline (www.cybertipline.com) ECPAT International is theCanadian affiliate ofECPAT. Itaimstoadvance is part of a global network working onthese ofaglobalnetworkworking ispart travel tothecountry.Andyet,fortraveler, ments currently againstnonessential advise turmoil playtheirpart,andmanygovern- image abroad. Poverty andregular political Haiti hasrarely enjoyedapopularmedia DANGERS &ANNOYANCES There are plenty of people onthestreets dur- (or moneyinyour backpocket).ing tolose safes anddon’tcarryanything you’re notwill- foster street crime. Take advantage of hotel and and hotel staff follow it. real trouble,listen totheadviceof embassy turn intheopposite direction. of Intheevent demonstrations, andifyoucomeacross one, rare forforeigners toget upinit. Avoid caught curs it’sincredibly aroundelections,although ments before traveling –troublegenerally oc- your eartothegroundforcurrent develop- ping problems. But youshould always keep dealing withthelarge-scale gangand kidnap- toHaiti,much tobring stability especiallyin Mission forHaiti (MINUSTAH) have done troops undertheauspicesof theStabilization out of your visit. isthekeytradictory states togetting themost Navigating apparently these Caribbean. con- liest andmostwelcomingcountriesinthe Haiti like really oneof canseem thefriend- The presence of large numbers of UN povertyA weakstate andhigh can levels isawebsite where sexualexploita-
(End Child Prostitution & Trafficking; (End ChildProstitution&Trafficking; lonelyplanet.com HAITI DIRECTORY 345 2222-0955; fax 2222-0955; % 2222-0220, 2222-0269; 2222-0220, 2222-0269; 2223-0989, 2223-8853, 2223- 2223-0989, 2223-8853, % % 2222-0971; fax 2222-3949; 2 Cité de 2222-0971; fax 2222-3949; 2 Cité (off Map pp290-1 ; pp290-1 (off Map (Vodou spirits), and are fortnight- (Vodou spirits), and are % (Map pp290-1 ; pp290-1 (Map ( lwa (Map pp290-1 ; Embassy
If you plan on attending one of the Vodou one of If you plan on attending The main Carnival venue is Port-au-Prince. The main Carnival is Port-au-Prince. venue (Map pp290-1 ; Hotel Montana, Rue F Cardoza, Port-au-; Hotel Montana, Rue F pp290-1 (Map Prince) Currently closed, but with possible plans to reopen Prince) reopen but with possible plans to closed, Currently this book. it during of the lifetime Blvd Harry Truman, Port-au-Prince);fax 2223-1641; Consulate Durand, 104 Rue Oswald 9324, 2223-7011; fax 2223-5515; Port-au-Prince) few of the traditional costumes that character- of few often are ize other Caribbean carnivals. There open-air concerts on Champs de Mars free are during the run. For the main event, there stands set where, up around the Plaza Hotel the you can watch dollars, for a couple of main distance. Haiti’s activity from a ‘safe’ January January SOUKRI two Soukri celebrations, held in are There to the dedicated and August. Both are January Kongo by music and ritual. long events, marked and Cap- held between Gonaïves They’re . p341 text, – for details, see boxed Haïtien February CARNIVAL Flush with color, music, dancing and rum, country- Gras – celebrated Carnival, or Mardi leading up to Ash days wide on the three experience. great Wednesday – is a the main attraction, so you’ll see music is Here FESTIVALS & EVENTS FESTIVALS & EVENTS throughout the festivals plenty of are There your trip with a year that can be tied into based on religious Most are planning. bit of Christian or Vodou. In addition – either feasts its town celebrates each to those here, listed see boxed Patronale; patron saint’s day (Fête by a Catholic is marked ). This Mass, p346 text, excuse an for a parade, music and but is often fun if you happen – great late-night revelries the day. to be in town on a good idea to go with it’s definitely festivals, a local guide or Vodou follower, to ensure to explain (and to local etiquette you adhere what’s happening). to you Netherlands UK USA Venezuela Port-au-Prince) l’Exposition, Blvd Harry Truman, 2222-0955; Rue Belleville, Parc Shodecosa, Port-au-Prince) Shodecosa, Rue Belleville,2222-0955; Parc Nationale 1. Located off Rte ! blanc 2257-9215; fax a lot, too. This a lot, too. % blanc 2222-0951; fax 2223-9858; 51 2249-0142; fax 2260-0544; 1 % (Map p294 ; p294 (Map 2256-6206; fax 2256-6206; 168 Rue DIRECTORY HAITI •• Embassies & Consulates % ( % 2256-4131; fax 2257-4131; 2 Impasse 2249-9000; fax 2249-9920, btwn Delmas 75 2257-8100; fax 2257-6783; 2 Delmas 60, % 2256-3811; fax 2257-8566; 3 Rue Marion, ( % % ( ( (Map pp290-1 ; pp290-1 (Map % (Map p294 ; p294 (Map
( For all this, the main annoyances travelers travelers all this, the main annoyances For
Finally, while taking care to be sensible, it’s Finally, while taking care On a less obtrusive note, all foreigners all foreigners note, On a less obtrusive Musseau, Port-au-Prince) Musseau, & 76, Rte de Delmas, Port-au-Prince) & 76, Rte de Delmas, Rue Capois, Port-au-Prince) Rue Capois, Impasse Brave, Delmas 60, Port-au-Prince) Impasse Brave, Delmas 60, Claudinette, Bois Moquette, Pétionville) Claudinette, Bois Moquette, Pétionville) Mexico Germany European Union France Dominican Republic Cuba Canada Brazil EMBASSIES & CONSULATES EMBASSIES & CONSULATES fol- listed embassies and consulates the All of in Port-au-Prince or Pétionville. lowing are Australia, New Zealand do not and Ireland in Haiti. diplomatic representation have avoid the country; those who do make it here it here the country; thoseavoid who do make come away with positive to likely more are horror stories. than impressions important not to get too hung up on Haiti’s too hung up on Haiti’s important not to get and the worst fear travelers Many bad name. like a throat-slitting action, they’re telling telling a throat-slitting action, they’re like hungry and want food – not that you they’re the chop. for you’re Haiti utterly bemused utterly at being called Haiti color-specific: we’ve even met Nigerians in even met Nigerians we’ve color-specific: should get used to being stared at out of cu- used at out of stared should get to being riosity. You’ll be called and is not foreigner word for a is the generic attention from faux guides. Try to discourage Try to discourage from faux guides. attention you set – their only function off them before seems tip you’re you how much to be to tell the end – as it’s very to pay at going to have run up a they’ve hard to not pay them after alongside you. mountain be persistent in some places, and at tourist in some places, be persistent at the Citadelle,spots, such expect persistent and crazy traffic. A lack of street lights is as and crazy traffic. street A lack of not to walk at night as any risk good a reason – no one wants to fall into being mugged of a sewer in the darkness. Beggars hidden can your aid. supply the poor electricity to face are likely are ing the day, and should you encounter trouble trouble you encounter day, and should ing the come to someone will that likely it’s quite lonelyplanet.com Darguin, Place Boyer, Pétionville) Darguin, Place Boyer, 2257-0568; 121 Ave Pan Américaine, Pétionville) Américaine, Pan 2257-0568; 121 Ave If someone gestures to you with what looks to you with what looks If someone gestures HAITI DIRECTORY Finally, exhausted, thebandwill reach its it, you’ve followedthebandforkilometers. –before dignitaries and saluting youknow moves slowly alongtheroadvisitingtemples band’s groove of wild, spiraling rhythms asit archies. It’seasytobecomeimmersed inthe band hier-other members of complexRara led by‘presidents,’ and ‘colonels,’‘queens’ bamboo andtintrumpets.Thebands are of revelers, percussionists andplayers of when roadsallover Haiti swellwithbands takes leading uptoEaster, placeintheweek Rara Sometimes dubbedthe‘ruralCarnival,’ RARA Easter boxedinformation, see text, p322 . that make theparadesofamous.Formore craftsmen makingthepapier-mâché masks ning uptoJacmel it’spossible tosee Carnival most colorfulinHaiti. Inthemonths run- street theater ratherthanmusic,andare the Jacmel. are aroundcostumesand These based more traditionalcelebrationstake placein possibly notfor the claustrophobic. andit’sallabithectic:greatnight, partybut wake. Mostof theactiontakes placelate at bands thatdrawswarmsof revelers intheir the anthemof theyear. There are alsoroving merengueposed songsthatare allvyingtobe sive soundsystems playingspeciallycom- bands cramontodecorated floatswithmas- 346 During the week before Carnival, slightly before slightly During theweek Carnival, days: The followingtownsandcitiescelebrate theirpatronsaint’sday(Fêtes Patronales) onthese PATRONALES FÊTES
Gonaïves –November 1(StCharles) (OurLadyoftheRosary) CroixdesBouquets–1stSundayofOctober –August Mirabelais 25(StLouis) Mary) Ounaminthe–August 15(Virgin Les Cayes Mary) –August 15(Virgin Mary) –July26(StAnne),August Port-au-Prince 15(Virgin Camp Perrin –July26(StAnne) Fermathe –July25(StJacque) Cap-Haïtien –July25(StJacque) Pétionville–June29(StPierre) Jacmel–May1(StJacque&StPhilippe) Port-de-Paix –April28(StLouisMariedeMonfort) AT IETR • Fsias&Eet ••Festivals &Events HAITI DIRECTORY is celebrated here, accompanied bymusicand GoodFriday.The fromevery week of thebiggest Vodoufestivals, runningfora Gonaïves andCap-Haïtien, Souvenance isone Held atthesite of namebetween thesame SOUVENANCE dancer). male for afiercedancebytheMajor Jonc(lead climax byperformingthe skulls and marigolds. A person possessed by a bya skulls and marigolds.Aperson possessed blackened festooned crosses withcandles, Samediaround to pourlibations for Baron For thisfestival, people pileintothecemeteries ians of thecemetery and thelordsof theerotic. Gédé spirits(see p281 asboththeguard- ) serve Fet Gédétakes placeonNovember 1and 2.The GÉDÉFET November more boxed information,see text, p313 . in thesacredthemselves. For poolstocleanse withwhite-claderful sight, adherents bathing part ErzuliDantor. It’sanincredible andpow- Mary withher hasbecomefused where of a19th-centurysighting theVirgin waterfall nearVille-Bonheur,the Sautd’Eau The largest Vodoupilgrimage of theyearisat SAUT D’EAU PILGRIMAGE July p341). text, boxedbathing insacred see pools(fordetails, salute, lonelyplanet.com lwa thecue lwa counter- Ogou HAITI DIRECTORY 347 Drugs are illegal in Haiti, and you will be and in Haiti, illegal Drugs are An important point to note is that some An important point to note If you’re bringing a laptop, top-end top-end bringing a laptop, If you’re and it’s unlikely that you’ll actually be arrested that you’ll actually be arrested and it’s unlikely against supportable charges are there unless you. Always try to contact your embassy with- its contactout delay, and keep details on your If the ‘problem’ is an imaginary one, person. patient may eventu- the ability to be extremely issue disappear. ally see the (and some midrange) hotels often provide provide often hotels (and some midrange) wi-fi access. LEGAL MATTERS in UN presence the tasks of key the One of the has been to train and reorganize Haiti National Police (HNP). It’s a mam- Haitian thin and spread moth task, as the police are with the judiciary burdened corruption is rife, similar problems. with marijuana or cocaine. jailed for possession of in a car accident, the law involved If you are and call the you to stop your car requires Haitian In general, police as soon as possible. guilt is proven, innocence until law presumes against nonessential travel to Haiti. Some Some to Haiti. against nonessential travel their of insurance policies (or certain areas circum- in such may be invalidated cover) stances, so discuss this with your broker before signing up. INTERNET ACCESS any decently in access isn’t a problem Online open cafés town, and internet sized Haitian Broadband connectionsand close frequently. standard, along with webcams, increasingly are for upload- connections CD burning and USB ing digital photos. Prices cost US$0.80 to US$3 the joint, the bet- expensive The more per hour. Cheap to be. the electricity supply is likely ter making them places don’t run generators, power cuts. highly susceptible to the regular INSURANCE INSURANCE insurance. without unwiseIt’s always to travel widely, but it’s essentialPolicies vary to have (including as possible cover medical as much serv- Medical evacuation cover). emergency so collect payment on the spot, ices insist on treated you can when being all the paperwork ask you Some policies later. so you can claim back) so (they’ll usually call you to call them can be your problem that an assessment of for lost, stolen or Check excess fees made. damaged luggage. warnings advising travel issue governments
klerin (fried street (fried street November 18 fritay fritay May 1 May 18 January 1 DIRECTORY HAITI •• Food
January 2 December 25
March/April January/February (three days before Ash days before (three January/February
For more information on Haitian food and information on Haitian For more FOOD FOOD Christmas Day Anniversary of the Battle of Vertières Anniversary of Jean-Jacques Dessalines’ Death Anniversary of Toussaint Louverture’s Death Agriculture and Labor Day Flag and University Day Good Friday Ancestors’ Day Carnival be closed on the following public holidays: Independence Day HOLIDAYS HOLIDAYS offices and most businesses will Government tablishments, is advisable. tablishments, attract attention. Same-sex couples sharing a attract attention. no problem, although some have room should es- religious more especially in the discretion, openly affectionate with each other through- with each openly affectionate out the country, any tourists doing this will in Haiti. While you may commonly see friends in Haiti. the same sexof holding hands and being ever; these were clamped down on in the 1980s ever; these were HIV/AIDS publicity about following negative in the Caribbean, including macho Spanish in the Caribbean, Spanish including macho how- gay venues, no dedicated DR. are There Haiti isn’t as homophobic as some other places Haiti drink, see p284 . GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS but there’s plenty of fresh fruit. Excellent sea- fresh plenty of but there’s coast. the food abounds along with plantains, salad and a beer, around all for high agenda, on the aren’t US$4. Vegetables most typical experience is eating in a bar- most typical experience or chicken fried pork of with a plateful resto, a main course might setyou back US$20. The just a few gourdes on filling gourdes on just a few to dining compared on the hoof food) eaten Pétionville, where of in the posh restaurants You can eat on any budget in Haiti, spending in Haiti, budget You can eat on any behavior and omnipresent bottles of bottles of omnipresent and behavior night at usually start rum). Rituals late (white small hours. into the and continue other onlookers, especially foreigners. The uni- foreigners. especially other onlookers, purple clothes, a top Gédé is black and form of with lewd shades, matched hat and mirrored Gédé will whiten his or her face with powder to her face with his or whiten Gédé will a corpse, toward and act lasciviously resemble lonelyplanet.com November 1 October 17 Wednesday) HAITI DIRECTORY common inPort-au-Prince andPétionville, Automatic teller machines are increasingly ATMs the you keep slipping between two systems. home currency, which isnearlyimpossibleif be able tomake price comparisonstoyour Haitian dollarpricesbyfive. You’lleventually to thinkingourdes,youmustmultiply all divide pricesingourdesbyfive; ifyouchoose toworkinHaitianchoose dollars, youmust lar orthegourde,andstickwiththat. Ifyou one system,choose eithertheHaitian dol- venirs) are sometimeslisted in US dollars. ing, pricesforexpensive goods(ortouristsou- gourdes). Tomake more thingseven confus- is ingourdesordollars it’s500 (inwhich case when quotingtheprice,whetherahundred something, alwayscheck whatpeoplemean to perplexshort-term visitors. Whenbuying Haitian dollar. designed It’sasystem seemingly that five gourdesisuniversally knownasone US dollaratarate of onetofive, withtheresult tobetiedthe quoting costs.Thegourdeused Haitians refer totheHaitian dollar(H$)when are these no though longer issued. two andfive gourdenotes incirculation,al- other. There are stillafew very grubbyone, ary heroononesideandahistoricfortthe 500 and1000gourdes,allwitharevolution- come indenominationsof 10, 25,50,100,250, by theoneandfive notes gourdecoins.Bank you’re isthe50centimes,followed likely tosee thesmallestcoin100 centimes,although written gde. Thegourdeisdividedintoseen The Haitian currency isthegourde,usually MONEY a street plan of Jacmel. date mapof Port-au-Prince(US$5),aswell Guides Panoramas producesthebestup-to- panies, alsowithamapof Port-au-Prince. is available free frommostcar-rental com- by theAssociation of Haitian Hoteliers, which and alltheother capitals. departmental plans of Port-au-Prince,Cap-Haïtien, Jacmel formation, whileonthereverse there are street countrymapwithlotsofdetailed touristin- au-Prince bookshops.Ononesidethere isa Touristique, totravelersOf mostuse isthe MAPS 348 The waytominimizeheadaches isto Where matters get confusingisthatmost A decentalternative isthemapproduced AT IETR • Mp ••Maps HAITI DIRECTORY which canbefoundinPort- Haïti Carte instead of gourdes. topayinUSdollars –it’sacceptable stance your mainhoard,as a backup. awayfrom US$100insmallbills)stashed (say It’s alsoagoodideatohave emergency cash documents,such asyourpassport. important the safest waystocarryyourmoneyaswell hidden. Awell-concealedmoneybeltisoneof and thebulkof yourresources more deeply but concealedplace(eginaninnerpocket), small amountof moneyforthedayinahandy der bag,which caneasilybesnatched. Keep a being robbedifyoucarryvaluablesinashoul- wallet, andyou’re similarlymore proneto of losingyourstash to misadventure. there are afew precautions toreduce therisk likely tobecarryingplentyof money,but Traveling outsidePort-au-Prince,you’re thing youbuywillbewithfoldingstuff. noted forcredit cards( below ), almostevery- iskinginHaiti.Cash Withtheexceptions Cash ATM andpocketing awad of cash. be aware of yoursurroundingswhenusingan the street, withsomeinsecure booths. Always out of Most ATMs thecapital. are directly on tomakeneed sure you’re liquidwhenheading obviously you’ll money ontheroad,although simplest andmostsecure waytomanage your found justone,inCap-Haïtien). They’re the but yettocatch onelsewhere inthecountry(we ers, they’re onlyinterested in US dollars. currency. Where there are street moneychang- Dominican pesos. Trynottobringanyother lars andeurosare usually accepted, alongwith dol- dollar rulessupreme, Canadian although you cantopupyourgourdes.InHaiti, theUS have counter aseparate nearthecashierwhere tion istogoasupermarket. generally These if youwanttochange money,thesimplestop- Haiti must beoneof thefew countries where Moneychangers made inthe larger banks. cash advancesoncredit cardscangenerally be all donicely.Withanaccompanyingpassport, extent) AmericanExpress lesser will a slightly MasterCardyou flashtheplastic.Visa, and(to Port-au-Prince restaurants) willhappilylet Most midrange andalltop-endhotels (and Credit Cards For many purchases –hotelFor manypurchases rooms,forin- tocarrywadsofIt’s unwise moneyinyour lonelyplanet.com HAITI DIRECTORY 349
racines (Haitian dance) and Compas (roots) CDs, available everywhere. ceremonies. countryside. from the galleries of Pétionville. from the galleries from Jacmel. Prince’s Bel Air district. Bouquets. old oil drums in Croix des Star rum. A bottle of Barbancourt Five Rada drums as used in Vodou Carved wooden statues. in the Straw hats, worn everywhere exciting artists by Haiti’s most Paintings from Jacmel. masks Papier-mâché mats and place wooden boxes Painted flags from Port-au- Sequined Vodou made from metal sculptures Intricate TOP HAITIAN SOUVENIRS SOUVENIRS HAITIAN TOP souvenirs some of our favorite are Here from Haiti:
Haiti uses the GSM system for cell phones. for system uses the GSM Haiti Except in galleries and a few shops, prices Except a few in galleries and TELEPHONE TELEPHONE Landline connections in Haiti can sometimes Landline connections in Haiti and most businessesbe patchy, list several on their cards and many people numbers networks. different carry two cell phones of Digicel and Voila, are The two main operators au-Prince has the widest choice, with good au-Prince has the widest choice, de Fer Marché including the shopping areas the so- and the Pétionville galleries. Jacmel, also offers Haiti, called handicrafts capital of shop- laid-back) (and more a comprehensive to buy you’ll be able Often ping experience. or artisans. from the artists direct to haggle. so be prepared never fixed, are but to offer, no rule on how much There’s the deal-making as a game it’s best to treat rather than becoming obsessed with driving the price into the ground. Both sides will and then it in turns to be uninterested take finding before at the prices offered outraged common ground. SHOPPING SHOPPING is filled Haiti arts scene, With its renowned handicrafts and with enough interesting your you worrying about to have souvenirs Port- allowance on the plane home. baggage or houngan (post box) (post box) boîte postale DIRECTORY HAITI •• Photography & Video (respectively male or female Vodou male or female (respectively
Faster in both directions are the inter- are in both directions Faster If you’re in Haiti long-term and want and want long-term in Haiti If you’re Most internet cafés allow you to upload cafés allow Most internet Haitians are well aware of their country’s of aware well are Haitians noted throughout this book. throughout noted never fast in Haiti. never fast tive is to set up a tive Receiving mail is at your local post office. passport identification when collecting mail pricey, alterna- although more A better, for. where you’re based. Senders you’re should under- where bring your line your name and you should to receive mail, you can have it addressed it addressed mail, you can have to receive Restante at the central post office to Poste superfast. from a postbox, although the larger towns although the larger from a postbox, The serv- around. dotted mailboxes also have although hardly reliable, ice is reasonably and Australia. It’s generally better to send better It’s generally and Australia. There are post offices post in every town. Postcards are There to North America cost 25 gourdes (US$0.70) to send,(US$1.40) to Europe or 50 gourdes POST POST photos and burn CDs, and digital supplies are photos and burn CDs, and digital supplies are Port-au-Prince. easy to come by in priest) before you start clicking away. you start priest) before you should always check with the always check you should mambo This goes double at Vodou ceremonies, where where This goes double at Vodou ceremonies, work or dirty clothes. Always ask permission – ask permission work or dirty clothes. Always or the countryside, in a market whether you’re the blue can occa- of producing a camera out is key. Discretion a reaction. sionally provoke poverty, and often hate to be photographed in to be photographed hate and often poverty,
tos of airports and police buildings is for- airports and police buildings tos of to snap a policeman bidden. It’s a bad idea and UN without obtaining first, permission sensitive. similarly can be soldiers PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO in many developing countries, taking pho- As you somewhere (make sure you also have the have you also sure (make you somewhere you), but we’d really with purchase receipts it. against advise for you to take elsewhere, possibly mumbling mumbling possibly elsewhere, for you to take ‘head of- to go to the having something about might get tears to the point of Persistence fice.’ Traveler’s Traveler’s Checks Banktellers nonstarter a Haiti. in These are curiosity at them with some will almost look the counter back over them pushing before lonelyplanet.com national couriers. DHL, UPS and TNT DHL, UPS and TNT national couriers. in Port-au-Prince and all represented are offices elsewhere Pétionville, with a few HAITI DIRECTORY Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Mon-Fri, 40Rued’Orléans; 2840; [email protected]; duSud’Est Touristiques Enterprises best sourceof up-to-date information. the private touroperators (see p353 ) are the International Louverture. Toussaint Instead, booth attheinternational airport,Aéroport There’s information anoccasionallystaffed Port-au-Prince) pp290-1; (Map more the luckcontacting visited, withnoplanstoreopen. Youmayhave Fri) Port-au-Prince; Capois, ChampsdeMars, deTourisme Maison Port-au-Prince’s maininformationcenter, the visitors scrabblingaroundforinformation. Haiti’s moribundtouristindustryhasleft TOURIST INFORMATION of eastern USA and Canada. Sunday inOctober it’sactuallyanhourahead so fromthefirst SundayinApriltothelast Haiti saving time, adjustfordaylight doesn’t time zoneasNewYork,MiamiandToronto. minus five hours), puttingitinthesame Haiti Time Standard runsonEastern (GMT TIME .com) updated international call,dial % you canplace your call. central Teleco which office, hasbooths where charge accordingly.Alternatively, lookfora lar deskphone,whowilltimeyourcalland street withacellphonethatlookslike aregu- usuallyayouthonthe find aphone‘stand,’ vendors. street are available fromshops andtheubiquitous overseas. Top-upscratch cardsformore credit the network,andaroundUS$0.90perminute cost aroundUS$0.10perminute accordingto withinHaitithe dealerforidentification.Calls des credit). Take acopyof yourpassportto hundredabout US$20(includingseveral gour- onarrivalinHaitito buyalocalhandset for foreign networks,butitcanworkoutcheaper international roamingagreements withmany Coverage isgenerally good.Theproviders have with HaiTel third. comingafairlydistant 350 , had been closed forsometimewhenwe closed , hadbeen Outside the capital, the Outside thecapital, Haiti’s international telephone codeis To make acall,thequickest optionisto 509. There are noarea codes. Tomake an is useful fortracking isuseful down numbers. AT IETR • Tm ••TimeHAITI DIRECTORY Haiti BusinessDirectory % direct, butwemake nopromises. 2223-2143; 8 Rue Légitime, Champs de Mars, 2223-2143; 8RueLégitime,ChampsdeMars, inJacmel hasgoodinforma-
Mp pp290-1; (Map % Associations desMicro- Associations 00. Theannually Ministry ofTourism Ministry (www.haiti-business
% h (Amets;
2222-8659; Rue 8am-4pm Mon- h % 8am-4pm 2288-
also sometimeshelp.There are notourist % vehicle andaguidewillmake moving around Atthevery obstacles. least,hiringa ing these helpinovercom-companion canimmensely themselves. Traveling withanable-bodied ness toadaptwhatever hurdlespresent iron will,plentyof andthewilling- stamina travelHowever, withan ispossibleforthose problems. serious accessible buildingsallpose of andtheabsence wheelchair-anarchic traffic Crowdedandbrokenwith disabilities. streets, Haiti isgoingtobehardfortravelers TRAVELERS WITHDISABILITIES trousers in such situations. plentyof localwomenyankingdowntheir see a loose-fitting skirtordress, you’ll although more easilyaccomplished ifyou’re wearing is usuallytheonlyoption.Forwomen,this atthesideofneys, relieving oneself theroad urinating inthestreets and,onlongjour- a bin.MostHaitian menthinknothingof so, where of supplied, dispose toiletpaperin The Haitian system sewerage isoverstretched thetoiletsinhotels orrestaurants.you canuse There are nopublictoiletfacilitiesinHaiti, but TOILETS abroad. offices tion, andthe a Haitian resident. ing letters of supportfrom youremployeror you travel, aprocessof months involv- several resident atyournearest visa embassybefore than 90days,you mustapplyforavisitor/ departure fromHaiti, sokeep this safe. a green entrycardthatmustbe given upon forupto90days.You’ll alsobegivento stay a return ticket. entitlesyou Your entrystamp Haiti, justapassportvalidforsixmonths and Panama orTaiwan, tovisit isneeded novisa Unless you’re acitizenof theDR,Colombia, VISAS with physicaldisabilities. which offers general travel advicefortravelers www.miusa.org; 132EBroadway,Ste343,Eugene,OR97401) USA Mobility International ance where needed. but they’lloften alsoreceive offers of assist- atstares fromHaitians,shouldn’t besurprised a great dealeasier. Travelers withdisabilities If you wish to stay inHaitiIf youwish tostay forlonger For more information,considercontacting 2262-0870; cnrRue24&theBlvd,Cap-Haïtien) Bureau duTourisme Bureau
(MIUSA; lonelyplanet.com
% 3541-343 1284;
Mp p334; (Map can , HAITI DIRECTORY
351 Haiti
(www DevNet and , a blog run by , for which you’ll need, for which a Healing Hands for Haiti sends medically trained (www.reliefweb.int) are good places to look for good places are
(www.haitiinnovation.org)
ReliefWeb Many foreigners working in Haiti and not working in Haiti foreigners Many Volunteer work in Haiti has traditionally has traditionally Volunteer work in Haiti regularly send charitable missions to Haiti, but send missions to Haiti, charitable regularly it’s essential to know the work they’ll be doing and sus- by local communities is both wanted tainable. The NGO .healinghandsforhaiti.org) disabili- with to work with Haitians volunteers These ties through organizations. local partner short – usually quite trips are volunteer type of a to get less than a month. If you want often as a volunteer, web has scores the life of taste (including church volunteers blogs from of their experiences. groups) recounting Innovation John Brown, Port-au-Prince)John Brown, employer, and your your embassy from letter account bank and a Haitian a health check proving solvency. develop- in aid and involved are in business ment. (www.devnetjobs.org) by two strands – the Peace been dominated pulled Corps The Peace Corps and churches. following the 2004 coup, and it’s Haiti out of groups Church not known if it will be returning. jobs in the development sector in Haiti. jobs in the development sector former Peace Corps workers, has an interest- Corps workers, former Peace development ing commentary of on the state out. checking and is worth and aid in Haiti,
(171 Ave (171 Ave DIRECTORY HAITI •• Women Travelers Department of Immigration
Haitian roads are abysmal and, as public are roads Haitian
country for 90 days you must register as a resi- country for 90 days you must register dent with the possesses. Fluency in French and/or Creole and/or Creole possesses. Fluency in French beenis virtually essential. in the you’ve After have skills that no one in the domestic market skills that no one in the domestic market have ures, and wages are desperately inadequate. inadequate. desperately are and wages ures, so to find is enormous, Competition for jobs you work you need to demonstrate to be able Paid work is in short supply in Haiti. Official supply in Haiti. work is in short Paid far higher mask unemployment estimates fig- hotel pool or the beach. pool or hotel WORK mended for wrapping over a swimsuit at a a swimsuit over mended for wrapping roadside toilet breaks. It’s not a problem for It’s not a problem roadside toilet breaks. or sleeveless shorts women to wear modest A sarongtops in and around town. is recom- ing a sports bra, especially on longer journeys, on longer ing a sports bra, especially also wear a skirt to allow for you should where transport is extremely bouncy, consider wear- transport is extremely do enjoy flirting and complimenting, but it and complimenting, do enjoy flirting and should be too overbearing usually isn’t good humor. in taken places seem to be at a minimum. Haitian men places seem to be at a minimum. Haitian WOMEN TRAVELERS TRAVELERS WOMEN to travel for a woman easier place is an Haiti (see countries in the region alone than many and leering). The catcalls, whistles p254 also many other may experience in that females lonelyplanet.com HAITI TRANSPORTATION direct bus services linkingPort-au-Prince direct busservices ings withtheDominicanRepublic,and tional airport, in tional airport, Port-au-Prince. (PAP; offMap pp290-1 ; Toussaint Louverture International Aéroport Haiti hasjusttwo international airports. Airports &Airlines AIR for information on visas. beyond yourplannedtravel ( dates. See p350 ) your passportisvalidforatleastsix months andthatfor bothentryandexitstamps, port toenter Haiti. sure youhave Be room All foreign visitors musthave avalid pass- Passport services to Haiti. Santiago. There are nointernational boat and SantoDomingo,Cap-Haïtien with flights. incoming Haïtien alsohandlesasmallnumber of York. Theinternational airportatCap- andNew USA –Miami,FortLauderdale routescommon flight allbeingfromthe Port-au-Prince,withthemostair through The vastmajority of travelers enter Haiti by www.lonelyplanet.c om/travel_services. andtoursFlights canbebooked onlineat CONTENTS Haiti Transportation 352 GETTING THERE&AWAY ETRN HAITI ENTERING By land,there are bordercross- several oa rnprain 355 355 354 353 Local Transportation Taptap &Camionette 355 Hitchhiking Car &Motorcycle Bus 353 Air 353 Getting Around Tours 353 Air 352 etn hr wy 352 Getting There &Away neigHii 352 Land 352 Entering Haiti % 2250-1120) Themaininterna- Santiago, andPunta Cana(DR)and Port-au-Prince. bean.com; Havana,Cuba)FlightsfromHavanaand .com; Fort Lauderdale, .com; Fort USA) Domingo. Haiti)Flightsto accesshaiti.com; Port-au-Prince, Santo domingo.com.do; SantoDomingo,Dominican Republic) flightsfrom canada.ca; Toronto,Canada)Direct Montreal. 4111; www.spiritair.com; Fort Lauderdale, 4111; www.spiritair.com; Fort USA) Lynx Airto USA. Florida, 8539) InCap-Haïtien,butcurrently onlyhasflightswith Caribintair Airlines American Air SantoDomingo Air France Air Canada Aerocaribbean toHaiti:International carriers withservices AIRLINES FLYING TO/FROM HAITI Cap-Haïtien International Aéroport border fees thatalltravelers have topay. Includedin thecostofdetails. the ticket are see p306 and andCap-Haïtientwo capitals, toSantiago; p336 respectively formore Comendador (aka Elías Piña). to crossingisfromBelladère and littleused, Cap-Haïtienbetween andSantiago. Athird, Ouanaminthe–Dajabón crossingontheroad Santo Domingo,followedbythe northern Port-au-Prince and Jimaní crossingbetween totravelersOf themostuse istheMalpasse– crossingpointsopentoforeigners.official The Haitian–Dominican borderhasthree Airlines Spirit Lynx Air City, Republic of Panama) Copa Air Lauderdaleand Fort New York. flightsfromMiami, www.aa.com; NewYork,USA)Direct Pointe-á-Pitre, Guadeloupe Pointe-á-Pitre, or Miami. Paris, France)FlightsfromParis via .airfrance.com; LAND There linkingthe are direct coach services included inthecostofyourairticket. taxesAll departure forleavingHaitiare DEPARTURE TAX (LY; (CM; (AF; (AC; (CRT; % % (NK; % (7L; % % 3513-2597, 2257-9956;www.lynxair 2223-2326; www.copaair.com; Panama (AA; 2222-1078, 2222-4262;www % (EX; (EX; 2250-0441, 2250-0442;www.air % 2250-2031, 2250-2032;caribintair@ in Dominican Republic 809-381- in DominicanRepublic % 2222-5004; www.aero-carib 2222-5004; www.aero-carib % 2246-0100, 3510-7010; 2244-4897; http://airsanto (CAP; % 2262- HAITI TRANSPORTATION 353 Seating is designed to squash in as many With a few exceptions noted in the text, in the text, exceptions noted With a few hour you’re told to be at the bus station will hour you’re the bus invariably be at least an hour before ‘lucky,’ the driver pulls onto the road. If you’re loud music to help will be playing deafeningly Overheadpass the time. racks and space below the seats be sufficient should for most bags, Haiti’s roads means that passengers sitting roads means that passengers Haiti’s bounced regularly axle are behind the rear The front cab into the air. unceremoniously These has several seats driver. next to the all, but attract the most comfortable of are a of around two-thirds of an extra premium standard ticket. passen- their quota collected of when they’ve here: a tricky payoff for travelers There’s gers. wait- too early and you’ll sit for hours arrive and you’ll too late ing for the bus to fill, arrive seat. be stuck with a terrible Buying a ticket in advance is sometimes possible for long or distances (Port-au-Prince to Cap-Haïtien Jérémie, for example), but be advised that the to. Sturdy beasts, buses have the advantage the advantage buses Sturdy beasts, have to. taking you to places that you’d usually of mostly sec- They are need a 4WD to reach. buses,ondhand American school colorfully for liveries Haitian with more repainted, de Dieu and Dieu Qui L’Ange bus lines like Decide. six or sevenpeople as possible, with across space is numbered, being the norm. Your however, so look for the numerals painted you clamber through your head as the above the assembled and their passengers bus over too). When bags (and occasionally chickens, a win- it’s worth asking for buying your ticket Try dow seat yourself some extra air. to give not to sit too far back either – suspension is of strong suit, and the state not the vehicle’s and Port-de-Paix, with a route to Jacmel to Jacmel a route with and Port-de-Paix, means that small size cards. Haiti’s on the to Jacmel), (just 15 minutes short flights are are on bad roads. The planes hours saving can be high,small and demand especially for so book as far in Jérémie, like destinations usually One-way tickets advance as possible. US$85 mark. the cost around BUS by bus isn’t always Getting Haiti around comfortable,it’s the cheapest but terrifically within the country and serv-way to travel you’ll want to get ices run to most places there are no timetables; buses leave instead instead no timetables; buses leave are there 2250- Tropical Tropical % (
2250-2031, 2250- and linking Port- %
( Tortug Air , he details given in in he details given 3457-5242, 3746-8696; info@ 2249-6177, 3557-0753; www 2249-6177, 3557-0753; Caribintair % % GETTING AROUND •• Air ( 2256-3626, 2256-3627) 3510-2223; www.haititravels.org) (Map p294 ; p294 (Map % % (
(
THINGS CHANGE... is particu- information in this chapter The Check directly larly vulnerable to change. agent to make with the airline or a travel (and ticket you understand how a fare sure of the you may buy) works and be aware for international security requirements T Shop carefully. travel. as pointers should be regarded this chapter for your own careful, not a substitute and are research. up-to-date
The Haitian border can be slightly chaotic slightly border can be chaotic The Haitian tourhaiti.net, [email protected]; 115 Rue Faubert, Pétionville) .voyagelumierehaiti.com) Haïtien, Les Cayes, Jérémie and Port-de-Paix, Les Cayes, Jérémie and Port-de-Paix, Haïtien, while Tropical Airways flies to Cap-Haïtien CaribintairLes Cayes, flies to Cap-Haïtien, Air serves Tortug and Jérémie. Cap-Jacmel au-Prince to several departmental capitals. 2032; [email protected]) 2555, 2250-2556; [email protected]) AIR AIR airlines running domestic three are There services in Haiti: GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND Voyages Lumière DOA/BN Tour Haiti Haiti has three local tour operators, all of- local tour operators, has three Haiti and services excellent packages fering if you your own. out on don’t want to strike more on the Dominican side of the border, the of on the Dominican side more see p256 . TOURS along with the occasional hustle – any tour- along with the occasional For ist is going to stand out in this scenario. at Ounaminthe with its sprawling local mar- at Ounaminthe with its Onward transport is plentiful, however, ket. if you’re traveling independently, particularly independently, particularly traveling if you’re you in or out. It remains unclear whether unclear whether It remains you in or out. a ‘gratuity.’ or just fee this is a legitimate leaving Haiti by land is fluid – these are fluid – these by land is are Haiti leaving beenbut border abolished, meant to have officials stamp still ask for US$10 to may Entering the DR you must pay US$10 for a for a must pay US$10 the DR you Entering entering/ fees with card. The situation tourist lonelyplanet.com Airways HAITI TRANSPORTATION you need either a validInternationalyou need Driving In ordertodrive orrent avehicle inHaiti, Driver’s License knew you never before.possessed yourself drivingwithaflairandaplomb you if you’re upforthechallenge, find youmight areoncoming traffic allpartof themix.But and theperilsof waywardpedestriansand humor. Terrible roads,alackof roadsigns, of of steel andasense bothnerves you need venient Haiti, wayof seeing beaware that having isacon- Although your ownwheels CAR &MOTORCYCLE forcing allcomers toscatter before them. loveallow it,buses toget upaheadof steam, towns andvillages. Whenroadconditions passthrough the windowsanddoors asbuses and drinkvendors dohangperilouslyfrom or rest stopscanberare, brave although food food allow forroadsidesquatting).Otherwise stop (womenare towearaskirt advised roads, orallowamuch-needed toiletorfood sometimes provide relief fromtheterrible people andtheirassorted baggage. 50morsotodropoff yetmorestops every it canbemaddeninglyfrustratingasthebus hotel, outsideyourchosen ting droppedright to thedriver. Whilethismaybegreat forget- pressing abuzzer oryelling side atpassengers’ request. Thiscanbedoneby stoppingattheroad- services, into pseudo-taxi lasting agoodhourinto a journey). to miraclecures (we’ve experiencedpitches fromtoothpaste everything selling salesmen traveleven withthebus–travelling goods food vendors, soyouwon’tgohungry.Some processionofconstant hawkers andstreet- you’re waitingforthebustoleave, there’s a which are alsopainted onbusfronts.While in microcosm.Toutsshout outdestinations, of vehicles andpeoplemarket Haiti stalls: sprawling, chaotic andnoisyconglomerations ample). They’re rather notproperbusstations, Port-au-Prince,forex- tion name(Estacion known as plastic bagsinsideyourluggage isa good idea. sokeeping yourbelongingsin soak through, baggage isusuallycovered, rainstormscanstill baggage handlerwillwanthistip).Although they’llhaveotherwise togoontheroof (the 354 Breakdowns aren’t uncommon,butcan turn Upon arrivalintheirdestination,buses townhasadeparture Each pointforbuses, ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING ‘estacion’ followed bythedestina- ‘merci, monsieur’
stop yourcarand callthepoliceassoon speed up,accidentsarespeed common,soit’ssome- Wherever allowsdrivers tarmac toget some able, especiallyafter rain,exceptina4WD. roads are worse,withsomebecomingimpass- roads are potholedandcracked. Secondary from Port-au-PrincetoJacmel, themain exception of highway thewell-maintained roads toavoid Withthenotable badsurprises. hopesofIt’s bestnottocomewithhigh Haiti’s Road Conditions whether theyare atfault or not. drivers are often heldliable foraccidents deductibles;furthermore,ries high foreign it isn’talwayscomprehensive andoften car- insuranceisoffered,4WD perday.Although orUS$150foraaround US$70forasaloon, tobequotedto company,don’tbesurprised and tear. fees varyfromcompany Although alotofand roadconditionsthatcause wear are rate priceyduetothehigh of accidents Prince’s international airport;see p306 . Rates operate inHaiti, nearPort-au- mostlybased Many international car-rental companies Rental itiftheystopyoufor want tosee any reason. passport withyouat alltimes,asthepolicewill your driver’s onyourperson. license Carry country. Itisanoffense todrive withoutavalid Instead of issuing tickets, policeare liable to possible. as through. slip gested street, youcanusually miraculously they willmake inthemostcon- way–even warn peoplewalkingthatyou’re coming,and of to the brakes, Alwaysbeep sotake heed. ally. Many drivers farprefer thehorninstead a hole. Whenovertaking, yourhornliber- use out infrontof yousuddenly,usuallytoavoid Drivers rarely signal,soexpectcars toswerve hicles atleastaspire todrive ontheright. Road rulesare extremely lax,butmostve- Road Rules in the dark. and animalspedestriansare hardtosee Many drivers are allergic tousingheadlights, an efficient system. traffic-calming times worththinkingof the broken roadsas Permit oracurrent fromyourhome license In cities,watch outforparking restrictions. If youhave anaccident,youmustto Avoid ifatallpossible. drivingatnight lonelyplanet.com HAITI TRANSPORTATION
the the 355 publique, will get will get (with other for getting for getting publique, collectif (collective taxis), (collective camionette publiques publiques When you get into an empty When you get Most major towns have radio-taxi firms towns have Most major Moto-taxis can have two passengers riding passengers two Moto-taxis can have with meters. with tered car, but look for the red ribbon hanging ribbon car, but look for the red tered from the front mirror and license start- plates ing with ‘T’ for transport. Once you spot one, (usually set fares Charging everywhere. they’re about 25 gourdes/US$0.70), they roughly stick a you hail After to particular routes. will let you know if he’s going your the driver usually fine). The are way (minor detours usual tight seating is two in the arrangement the back. front and four in the ribbon, in- will sometimes remove driver increased with resulting hire dicating a private If you want to ride charge. now is the time to let him know. passengers), he drives settle before the fee Alternatively, on arrival. off, not trip will rarely cost more than about 20 gour- cost more trip will rarely can climb steeply des/US$0.45, although rates serious distance. any if you want to travel If you pillion, althoughnot recommended. it’s to place it between driver the get luggage, have unbalancing your- rather than his handlebars, self with it on your back. Although pot-holed attempt to the bikes roads don’t always allow a seemhigh speeds,have to drivers many their own mortality,fatalist’s so don’t view of slow down. them to be afraid to tell Taxi operate Port-au-Prince and Cap-Haïtien taxiscalled collective around town. You might find them hard to any other bat- spot initially, as they look like from the ceiling for people to hold on to. to. to hold on for people the ceiling from in a riding A foreigner that a Haitian from incredulity looks of such alone. one for the response it’s worth trying Certainly, do it for a smooth ride. don’t LOCAL TRANSPORTATION Moto-taxis around get and easiest way to The quickest a moto-taxi back of any town is to hop on the to as a just referred (motorcycle taxi), often with As ‘moto.’ transport license and in these plates, have bibs. A wear colored some towns the drivers (free : they go rue libre estacion and watch your vehicle vehicle your and watch GETTING AROUND •• Hitchhiking gardien . This is a larger truck designed truck . This is a larger
Halfway between a taptap and a bus is the Halfway
Taptaps are better suited for short trips, for short suited better are Taptaps There are no seats, ropes dangling few just a are There with crude windows cut out of the truck body, the with crude windows cut out of and as basic as they come. cheap very these are camionette primarily for transporting goods, but which open sided, or Often human cargo. also takes Prince, taptaps run within the city along set and easiest by far the cheapest and are routes to B. from A getting way of and in many areas are likely to be the only likely are and in many areas around. In Port-au- getting way of feasible seats, bouncy roads and sharp elbows. seats, bouncy roads and carrying luggage places you at a disadvantage. places you at a disadvantage. carrying luggage bruisesExpect from the hard bench a few sardines how many people you (the answer to so can fit in a taptap ‘one more’), is invariably are more pricey, and you can hail one and get pricey, and you can hail one and get more are like usually packed They’re you like. off where bus. The same buses rules for apply to taptaps, from the same leave which up, often brightly decorated, with bench seats with bench brightly decorated, up, often than a slightly cheaper are in the back. Fares when full, the comfy seats next to the driver Smaller vehicles than buses ply the roads car- Smaller vehicles pick- A taptaprying passengers. is a converted TAPTAP & CAMIONETTE TAPTAP & CAMIONETTE by the sight of a foreigner without a vehicle and without a vehicle a foreigner by the sight of curiosity. of will just pick you up out silly amounts from you, you’ll know what notsilly amounts from you, to pay for and what you’ll be expected to give will be baffled However, some Haitians the ride. money – keep public-transport fares in mind so public-transport fares money – keep to extort someone trying that, should you strike risk in flagging down a ride. If you do get picked If you do get risk in flagging down a ride. asks for someup, don’t be surprised if the driver ride). As with hitchhiking anywhere in the anywhere with hitchhiking ride). As seriouspotentially a small but world, there’s ownership and unreliable transport systems, transport and unreliable ownership used to asking for a are Haitians It’s extremely unusual to see foreigners hitch- to see unusual It’s extremely foreigners car of to the low rate but due hiking in Haiti, HITCHHIKING HITCHHIKING When parking, kids or men may approach approach kids or men may When parking, you to be a remove your license plates, returnable from your license returnable plates, remove a fine. police stationthe local payment of on small fee. for you for a lonelyplanet.com © Lonely Planet Publications 356
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