FOOD & DRINK inventive competitors. At the home of « « « the University of Illinois, the twin cities of CHICAGO FINE DINING Chicago isn’t Champaign-Urbana see both students PIZZA WARS all deep-dish pizza and hot dogs with and locals flock to the popular Blind Pig lavish toppings. There’s a long legacy of brewery with tasty house-made ales and Like the age-old experimental gourmet restaurants in the a charming brick patio. One of the best Chicago Cubs city, from the pioneering Charlie Trotter’s bars in the state, Fast Eddie’s Bon Air, was versus White Sox baseball rivalry, (now defunct) to grande dames like Alinea originally built in the historic town of Alton the type of pizza and Oriole. Gastronomic creativity abounds by Anheuser-Busch (based across the you order in throughout Chicago; former President river in St Louis) in 1921. Today it can still Chicago can elicit Obama is a fan of the creations of chef Rick be counted on for affordable pub fare in a strong emotions Bayless, owner of Mexican restaurants lively dive bar setting with a neon exterior; and allegiances. The city is most throughout the city from Frontera Grill to there’s also live music seven nights a week. famous for deep- Topolobampo. Just be prepared to open dish pizza, a thick, your wallet for these luxe dinners. DEEP-DISH PIZZA Eating deep-dish pie-like creation pizza is a must when visiting Chicago. It’s baked in a steel pan stuffed with CHICAGO-STYLE HOT DOGS Though impossible to miss it at the crowded tourist large amounts of no one’s clear on the hot dog’s origins, haunts downtown, but neighborhood cheese and tomato ILLINOIS Chicagoans claim the wiener was favorite Pequod’s, tucked away in the sauce. Pizzeria Uno « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « invented at the 1893 World’s Columbian city’s Lincoln Park area, makes for a more and Lou Malnati’s Exposition. Whether or not this is authentic experience. Mingle with locals are among the POPULATION: 12.8 million | SIZE: 57,915 sq miles | STATE CAPITAL: Springfield true, Chicago certainly has one of the over classic Chicago pan pizzas stuffed oldest and most LARGEST CITY: Chicago | WEBSITE: www.enjoyillinois.com iconic purveyors best regional variations of the ballpark with cheese and ringed by Pequod’s of this style of favorite. Order one ‘dragged through the trademark caramelized crust. pizza, which often garden’ (peppers, tomato, onions, pickles, appeals to more celery salt and mustard – no ketchup) HORSESHOE Springfield may be most of a tourist crowd. at Hot Doug’s or in the drive-through famous as the home of Abe Lincoln, but Most Chicagoans, however, prefer of Superdawg (complete with carhop the state capital’s famed horseshoe dish thin-crust pizza. So N service), open since 1948 in Chicago’s may be just as revered. The open-faced if you’re look- Norwood Park neighborhood. The pure sandwich consists of hamburger (unless ing to eat like a WITH WORLD-CLASS ARCHITECTURE, MUSEUMS, RESTAURANTS AND AN ACTION-PACKED SLATE beef hot dog at Superdawg is served on a you prefer other meats including chicken, local, the cash-only poppy seed bun and even comes in its own bacon, sausage or walleye) on toasted environs of Vito & of events, Chicago is an urban explorer’s paradise. Whether you’re attending a baseball game at iconic Nick’s Pizzeria on vintage-style cardboard box. bread, smothered in cheese and even fries. Wrigley Field or a comedy show at the Second City, strolling the lakefront, touring the Chicago River by Chicago’s South Side is a top choice boat, or exploring some of the city’s 77 distinctive neighborhoods, it’s clear that America’s third-largest CRAFT BEERS While Chicago never ITALIAN BEEF SANDWICH No food for experiencing city dominates the country’s sixth-most populous state. But that doesn’t mean the rest of Illinois should established the brewing monoliths of invention is more of a Chicago classic than the city’s classic midwestern neighbors Milwaukee and St the Italian beef sandwich, consisting of tavern-style pizza be overlooked. Small towns like Galena and Mt Carroll offer intimate charm, while midsize cities like (thin-crust, square- Louis, its craft brewing scene kicked into thinly sliced, seasoned roast beef cooked Springfield and Champaign-Urbana offer plenty of culture and history in their own right. And some cut) in a quaint overdrive in recent decades, and early in jus and served with peppers on an Italian neighborhood spectacular natural beauty blankets the Land of Lincoln, from the shores and beaches of Chicago’s Lake standouts Goose Island and Revolution roll. Al’s Beef in Chicago’s University Village setting.
Michigan to the rolling hills and bluffs of Shawnee National Forest near downstate Carbondale. / 500px Tim Bolle © Brewing have been joined by a spate of has been serving the now-iconic local
94 ILLINOIS THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 95 From left:Andrew McMahon In the Wilderness performs during Riot Fest 2015 at Douglas Park in Chicago; Shawnee National Forest; the view from the top of Willis Tower in Chicago; Previous page: the Chicago skyline
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FESTIVAL CITY, USA
Chicago is a N festival-lover’s mecca, with major Images / Getty Boczarski © Daniel Left: Images; / Getty Freelance_Ghostwriting Giannuzzi / 500px © Davide FUN FACT summer festivals including Lollapa- staple at a no-frills beef stand (literally; through several of Chicago’s coolest Taking in woodlands, wetlands, lakes and surrounding historic communities of Willis Tower looza, Riot Fest, there are no chairs) since 1938. Order neighborhoods, including Wicker Park. prairies, the massive expanse includes LaSalle and Ottawa, or book a room at the Pitchfork Music (formerly yours from the chain’s cash-only original Today it is one of the best ways to see campsites, nature preserves, 300 miles 1930s-era Starved Rock Lodge and have Festival, Chicago Sears Tower) Blues Festival and location. 1049 W Taylor Street. the interior of the city, as you can walk of hiking trails and some of the best dinner under the stars on the lodge’s back Taste of Chicago. or bike the leafy pathway with plenty of mountain-biking terrain in the state. patio. www.dnr.illinois.gov, 2668 E 875th was the tallest But you don’t SOUTHERN ILLINOIS BARBECUE BBQ stops for food and drink at local bars and http://fpdcc.com Rd, Oglesby building in have to battle big isn’t just for the South – southern Illinois restaurants located just off the trail. the Americas crowds just to have does a dry rub rib and pork in a Tennessee- www.the606.org a good time, as any SHAWNEE NATIONAL FOREST ARTS, HISTORY & CULTURE until One weekend in sum- style tomato sauce that you can’t pass Consisting of 280,000 acres of federal World Trade mer is overflowing up. Downstate Illinois institution 17th CHICAGO LAKEFRONT TRAIL Few land sprawling across vast swaths of open ABRAHAM LINCOLN PRESIDENTIAL Center in New with smaller, more St Barbecue in Murphysboro is serving juxtapositions of tall buildings and space in southern Illinois, this stunning LIBRARY & MUSEUM Telling the life York City local neighborhood up some of the finest barbecue in the shimmering water are more dramatic than landscape of hills, canyons and springs is story of Illinois’ most famous resident street festivals eclipsed it, nation, winning too many awards to count. those that can be enjoyed from Chicago’s unlike anything else in the state. Popular and 16th US president, Abraham Lincoln, that can be just as but the Willis much fun (often Anything you order here is good, but the Lakefront Trail, an 18-mile scenic path destinations include Garden of the Gods this massive 200,000-sq-ft complex in Tower roof a lot cheaper), baby back ribs are the most famous item along Lake Michigan that stretches through Wilderness and Little Grand Canyon, with Springfield houses a museum, library and stands 100ft including Wicker and should be enjoyed in full-rack fashion a number of Chicago neighborhoods and the nearby Shawnee Hills Wine Trail making archives, plus high-tech special effects Park Fest, Taste of any day of the week. Down the road from beaches. Walk, run or bike the paved trail for another fun excursion. including interactive displays, live actors higher than Randolph Street, Murphysboro, small southern Illinois towns and be sure to stop at Montrose Beach, www.fs.usda.gov/shawnee, Herod and a replica of the White House circa that of One and Do Division Street Fest. For Colp and Ina have their own barbecue where sand dunes, a bird sanctuary and a 1861. Afterward, visit the Lincoln Tomb in WTC, which more local flavor offerings. summer bar/music venue await. STARVED ROCK STATE PARK One of Springfield’s Oak Ridge Cemetery. took the title there’s even an www.choosechicago.com the state’s most popular natural retreats www2.illinois.gov/alplm, 212 N Sixth St based on its Iditarod-style, cos- NATURAL ESCAPES is famous for its canyons, bluffs and lofty spire. tumed shopping- waterfalls, which you can explore via 13 cart race, the FOREST PRESERVES OF COOK COUNTY ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO Chiditarod, held THE 606 This 2.7-mile urban hiking Encompassing more than 69,000 acres, miles of trails and 133 campsites dotted Immortalized in the classic 1986 comedy every spring. trail was created in 2015 on the site of this greenbelt surrounding Chicago is the throughout this 2630-acre preserve on Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, Chicago’s most « an abandoned railway line that crosses largest forest preserve district in the US. the Illinois River. Get out and roam the well-known art museum is this national
96 ILLINOIS THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 97 From left: The Field Museum on Chicago’s Museum Campus; Chicago jazz legend Frank D’Rone performing on stage at Green Mill Cocktail Lounge; The Super Museum in Metropolis. © Charles Cook / Getty Images ;Left: © Jon Hicks / Getty Images / Getty Jon Hicks © ;Left: Images / Getty Cook © Charles Images / Getty © Mark Reinstein
treasure housing nearly 300,000 works months. One of the best ways to see the into the early morning hours. a mile along Forest and Chicago Avenues of fine art. The entrance to its historic river is by boarding one of several tourist http://greenmilljazz.com, 4802 N Broadway (though gawking must occur from the downtown structure is guarded by two boats, preferably with drink in hand on a sidewalk since they’re privately owned). iconic bronze lions, standing watch over warm, sunny day. www.chicagoriverwalk.us KRANNERT ART MUSEUM In Champaign, www.visitoakpark.com the priceless collections within. There’s the second-largest general fine-art plenty to see, but don’t miss the superb GALENA One of the most beautiful small museum in the states houses more than THE SECOND CITY Founded in 1959 in « « « impressionist and post-impressionist towns in the Midwest is this serene, 10,000 works of art from the 4th century Chicago’s Old Town neighborhood, this « « « paintings. www.artic.edu, 111 S Michigan Ave historic community near Illinois’ western BC to the present day on the campus of the world-famous center for improv comedy FINDING border with Iowa. Shop Galena’s quaint University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. has hosted dozens of legendary comics SUPERMAN ASK A CHICAGO MUSEUM CAMPUS Situated cobblestone streets, paddle down the Signature pieces include Marilyn, Andy and actors over the years, from Bill Murray LOCAL along Chicago’s picturesque downtown Galena River, ogle historic mansions Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe portrait. to Stephen Colbert. Today the influential Just in case you lakefront, the city’s Museum Campus is including President Ulysses S Grant’s https://kam.illinois.edu, 500 E Peabody Dr theater performs a wide variety of thought that the ‘With gorgeous Superman-themed home to three world-class museums within former home or explore the rolling hills and improvisation and sketch comedy shows hills and vast Super Museum in expanses of open a 57-acre museum park: the Field Museum vineyards outside town. Galena’s historic OAK PARK This suburb next door to across several venues. Improv classes are the small southern space, southern of Natural History, Shedd Aquarium and DeSoto House Hotel is the state’s oldest Chicago spawned two famous sons: also available. www.secondcity.com, Illinois town of Illinois is one of Adler Planetarium. The campus also hotel. www.visitgalena.org novelist Ernest Hemingway was born here, 1616 N Wells St Metropolis wasn’t the most over- includes a professional football stadium, and architect Frank Lloyd Wright lived and quirky enough, looked areas of the stop by in June for nature trails, a summer concert venue and worked here for 20 years. The town’s main state. The Shawnee GREEN MILL COCKTAIL LOUNGE A slice WRIGLEY FIELD There are few better the town’s four-day National Forest a small public beach. www.choosechicago. of Chicago’s infamous mobster history sights revolve around the two men. For sports venues than the landmark Wrigley Superman Celebra- offers endless com, 1400 S Lake Shore Dr remains alive at this landmark North Hemingway, a low-key museum and his Field, opened on Chicago’s North Side in tion, an annual outdoor recreation, Side jazz club, once Al Capone’s favorite birthplace provide an intriguing peek at his 1914 and home to Major League Baseball’s festival dedicated with the town of to all things Super- CHICAGO RIVERWALK The expanded bar during Prohibition. Opened in 1907, formative years. The Frank Lloyd Wright Chicago Cubs. Wrigley’s outfield ivy and Carbondale mak- man. There’s even Home and Studio, where Wright developed ing an excellent downtown Chicago Riverwalk extends for one of Chicago’s oldest bars has made bleachers party scene are world-famous, a 12ft, 2-ton Super- base for exploring more than a mile along the Chicago River appearances in several films and is still one the Prairie style, is the big draw, as are the but the park’s newly added adjacent man statue outside it all.’ and is bustling with bars, restaurants, of America’s premier jazz clubs, as well as many surrounding houses he designed for green space, Gallagher Way (which hosts the museum. art and a flurry of activity in the summer a prime poetry slam venue. Shows can go his neighbors. Ten of them cluster within concerts, events and games of catch),
98 ILLINOIS THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 99 « ITINERARY
Day 1 town of Galena near Explore downtown the Mississippi River Chicago by admiring and the Iowa border, world-renowned archi- where you can take tecture, investigating trolley tours to see the the wealth of museums bluffs and mansions and cultural attractions, or explore the quaint and getting on the Chi- shops and restaurants cago River with a boat that line the town’s cruise. Grab dinner in cobblestone streets. the bustling River North Stroll the scenic Galena district before taking in River Trail and spend drinks at Cindy’s on the the night at the historic rooftop of the Chicago DeSoto House Hotel. Athletic Association Hotel overlooking Mil- Day 4 « « « lennium Park and Lake Get up early for a Michigan. journey south down GETTING the scenic Great River Day 2 Road, which hugs THERE & Get out into the ‘real’ Illinois’ western border Chicago by exploring along the Mississippi AROUND makes an experience that’s just as the Chicago River, some going into Lake and forgotten towns with real-deal Main From left: Great some of the city’s 77 River. Grab lunch at the enjoyable as a game. Plus, you can visit Michigan; all offer a great chance to take in Streets. As you slip under wind-beaten River Road outside O’Hare Interna- Galena; Navy Pier. unique neighborhoods. biker-friendly Poopy’s tional Airport is now without fear of the Curse of the Billy Chicago skyline highlights. Boats usually cliffs, keep an eye out for Elsah, a hidden Take in a Cubs game Pub n’ Grub in Savanna the main Chicago Goat (look it up and be amazed); it was depart from Michigan Avenue Bridge or hamlet of 19th-century stone cottages, at iconic Wrigley Field (closed Mon–Wed) hub, while Midway broken by the Cubs’ 2016 World Series win. Navy Pier; if the latter, spend some time wood buggy shops and farmhouses. in Wrigleyville, walk before exploring the International www.mlb.com/cubs, 1060 W Addison St in Navy Pier before or after the trip. The http://greatriverroad-illinois.org the trendy Wicker nearby New England– Airport is a more Park neighborhood style town of Mt Carroll. half-mile-long pier is one of the city’s most- relaxed alternative. around North and Conclude your day in Chicago is well FAMILY OUTINGS visited attractions, sporting a 196ft Ferris MILLENNIUM PARK Milwaukee Avenues, Springfield, the state served with public wheel and other (pricey) carnival rides, The city’s showpiece is a trove of free and or explore President capital. transit options CAHOKIA MOUNDS STATE HISTORIC an Imax theater, a beer garden and arty sights. It includes Jay Pritzker Pavilion, Barack Obama’s former including extensive neighborhood of Hyde Day 5 SITE The largest pre-Columbian Native more. Locals groan over Navy Pier’s Frank Gehry’s swooping silver band shell, city subway, the Park on the South In Springfield, history American settlement north of Mexico and commercialization, but its lakefront view which hosts free weekly concerts in elevated ‘L’ and bus Side. Make your way awaits at every turn. lines, with Metra Illinois’ only Unesco World Heritage Site and cool breezes can’t be beat. summer; Anish Kapoor’s beloved silvery back downtown to To start, grab a classic rail lines serving can be found in this 22-acre park, which https://navypier.org sculpture Cloud Gate, aka the ‘Bean’; enjoy an urban hike at horseshoe breakfast at most suburbs and showcases these flat-topped mounds, and Jaume Plensa’s Crown Fountain, an Northerly Island or a Charlie Parker’s Diner Amtrak lines ex- quiet walk on the Ohio and then spend the day dated to AD 1200. Imagine what life was GREAT RIVER ROAD Extending more interactive video installation/fountain. tending further out Street Beach. Spend the enjoying presidential like before the iPhone as you explore the than 2000 miles along the Mississippi The McCormick Tribune Ice Rink fills with to midsize Illinois evening checking out sights at the Abraham cities like Peoria hallowed grounds, which also include a River from Minnesota to Louisiana, some skaters in winter, and alfresco diners in the nightlife in Chica- Lincoln Presidential and Springfield. Stonehenge-style ‘Woodhenge’ made of of the most scenic stretches of the Great summer. The hidden Lurie Garden blooms go’s hip Logan Square Library and Museum. Caution: Chicago wooden posts. https://cahokiamounds.org, River Road (actually a series of roads) can with prairie flowers and tranquility, Gehry- neighborhood. Save time to explore the drivers are often Collinsville (near East St Louis) be found in Illinois, hugging the state’s designed BP Bridge spans Columbus Dr Illinois State Capitol; aggressive, but taxis Day 3 visitors often rub the western boundary. Enjoy unobstructed with great skyline views, and the Nichols and ride-sharing Leave Chicago and statue’s nose for good services in the city CHICAGO RIVER BOAT CRUISE AND views of nature while visiting charming Bridgeway arches from the park to the make your way west to luck at the Lincoln are plentiful. NAVY PIER Multiple companies run small towns like Quincy and Alton as Art Institute’s 3rd-floor sculpture terrace. the charming, historic Tomb.
Chicago architecture tours by boat down the road curls by bluff-strewn scenery / Shutterstock Right: elesi Li / Shutterstock; Jing lowdive © www.millenniumpark.org
100 ILLINOIS THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 101 FOOD & DRINK southern Indiana counties and surrounds Larry Bird’s hometown of French Lick. Hike PORK TENDERLOIN SANDWICH Like some of the forest’s 266 miles of trails and much of the Midwest, the Hoosier State then kick back to watch the sunset along loves its pork. The finest expression of this Patoka Lake. www.fs.fed.us affection is the pork tenderloin sandwich, a deep-fried slab of pork loin on a bun, INDIANA DUNES NATIONAL PARK the edges of the meat far overhanging the The newest National Park, the unique « « « bun. Devour one in your car at the Mug-n- landscape of this popular park in Divine Bun drive-in near the Indianapolis Motor Chesterton along Lake Michigan in INTERVENTION Speedway (and don’t tell nearby Iowa, northwest Indiana draws a good number also devoted to the classic pork tenderloin of visitors from Chicago, but it remains Polish monks built sandwich, that this listing went to Indiana). a tranquil oasis of almost 25 miles of a series of trippy, fluorescent shrines undeveloped beach marked by trails and to make the Grotto ST ELMO STEAK HOUSE This longtime sand dunes up to 200ft high. Climb the of the Blessed Indianapolis institution is nationally dunes or just spread out a blanket and Virgin Mary at the acclaimed for its steaks and world relax in the sand. Next door is Indiana Carmelite mon- renowned for its shrimp cocktail, one of Dunes State Park. www.nps.gov/indu/ astery hiding in suburban Munster. Indiana’s most classic and popular dishes. index.htm, 1215 N State Road 49, Porter INDIANA First came 250 « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « Order yours with a variety of steaks and tons of sponge rock chops, lobster tails or king crab and shrimp ARTS, HISTORY & CULTURE that the friars used POPULATION: 6.7 million | SIZE: 36,418 sq miles | STATE CAPITAL: Indianapolis linguine in an old-school tavern-style space for the grotto’s WEBSITE: https://visitindiana.com dark, twisting, that hasn’t changed much since 1902. BLOOMINGTON Home of Indiana three-story cav- https://stelmos.com, 127 S. Illinois St University, Bloomington has charm erns. Then came to spare with its funky shops, ethnic the bright-hued SUGAR PIE Going to Indiana and not restaurants, the large Tibetan Mongolian bits of rose quartz, ordering a sugar pie would be like… Buddhist Cultural Center and abundant blue fluorite and well…going to Indiana and not ordering a nearby nature at locations like Brown other minerals that glimmer in sugar pie. Correcting such an egregious County State Park and Lake Monroe O starry designs oversight should be easy; there’s even a (where singer John Mellencamp maintains from the walls. The ‘THERE’S MORE THAN CORN IN INDIANA’ IS A PHRASE YOU MIGHT FIND HARD TO AVOID IN YOUR beloved Zionsville mainstay named after a home). Explore Bloomington’s B-Line real eye-popper, travels across the country’s 38th-largest state. The sentiment rings true immediately in the friendly the dessert. My Sugar Pie offers a wide outdoor urban trail, and for a more though, is the Fluo- range of handmade pies in addition to their traditional college experience, a basketball rescent Altar. Flip city of Indianapolis, the state’s compact and tidy capital, which is home to the Indy 500, the NCAA’s the light switch, signature sugar cream Hoosier pie. game at the university’s Assembly Hall is a headquarters, and the largest number of US war memorials outside of Washington, DC. The Hoosier and the stones must. https://bloomington.in.gov around Mary’s State is also home to several major college campuses including the University of Notre Dame, Purdue NATURAL ESCAPES statue jolt to life. University and Indiana University, the last of which is in the funky, artist-friendly city of Bloomington. COLUMBUS This unique town of 44,000, HOOSIER NATIONAL FOREST If you the ‘Athens on the Prairie,’ is famous Along the way you’ll want to explore Amish communities, sand dunes, the Indiana Wine Trail perched really want to get away from it all, this more for its modernist architecture, public Pictured left: View along the scenic Ohio River, the most distinctive collection of modern architecture in the country and a from Hickory Ridge than 200,000-acre national forest of hills art and historic landmarks that appear Fire Tower in Hoosier
vast expanse of wilderness in Hoosier National Forest. / Shutterstock Gwinn © Sam and wilderness sprawls out to parts of nine almost everywhere you look. Tour more National Forest.
102 INDIANA THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 103 « ITINERARY
Day 1 Start your journey exploring Indianapolis’ downtown with a stop at the Soldiers & Sailors Monument, where you can get a nice city view from its observation deck before moving on to explore the Indiana Statehouse and Indiana State Museum. Get a look at the NCAA Hall of Champions (the collegiate sports governing body is located here). Grab dinner and spend the eve- ning exploring downtown along Massachusetts Avenue.
Day 2 Head to Bloomington, a youthful and vibrant col- than 70 architectural wonders around specimen room filled with brains in jars, towns of Middlebury and Shipshewana, INDIANAPOLIS MOTOR SPEEDWAY lege town south of Indi- town, including churches, a courthouse, and exhibits on early psychiatric medical where horse-drawn buggies, quilt gardens, MUSEUM Located on the grounds of the anapolis. Once there you « « « sculptures and private homes. Stop by the research. www.imhm.org, 3045 W Vermont and quaint shops and galleries offer a step speedway, home of the world-famous can roam Bloomington by lively downtown district for an array of bars St, closed Sundays to Tuesdays back in time. Rent a bike to explore the Indianapolis 500 auto race, this museum bike on the B-Line Trail, GETTING and restaurants. https://columbus.in.us 16-mile Pumpkinvine Nature Trail and cap features several Indy 500–winning cars as explore the leafy campus of Indiana University, or THERE & SOLDIERS & SAILORS MONUMENT your day with a home-cooked Amish feast well as a large selection of more general tour the peaceful grounds AROUND FORT WAYNE MUSEUM OF ART This Did you known Indianapolis is home to at Das Dutchman Essenhaus. motorsport and consumer autos that take of Bloomington’s Tibetan museum is known across the state for the most US war memorials outside of www.amishcountry.org you on a high-octane journey through Mongolian Buddhist Indiana, the ‘Cross- its collection of visual arts from the 19th Washington, DC? Its most famous is the American automotive history. Cultural Center. roads of America,’ century to the present, specializing landmark Soldiers & Sailors Monument, CHILDREN’S MUSEUM OF https://indyracingmuseum.org, has more miles of Day 3 in showcasing artists from diverse recognized as an iconic image of the city. INDIANAPOLIS 4790 W. 16th St interstate per sq Drive past the scenic mile than any other backgrounds. It also hosts the annual Learn about the Hoosiers who served in The world’s largest kids’ museum is a rolling hills of Brown US state. Public Chalk Walk street painting event, held in wars throughout US history while you crowd favorite that sprawls over five SANTA CLAUS It’s Christmas year-round County State Park on transit is available conjunction with Fort Wayne’s Three peruse artworks and get a good glimpse floors holding dinosaurs aplenty and in the quirky little southern Indiana town your way to tour the in larger cities like Rivers Festival every July. of Indianapolis from the monument’s a 43ft sculpture by Dale Chihuly that of Santa Claus, where every year the local modernist architectural Indianapolis, and www.fwmoa.org, 311 E. Main St observation level. teaches tykes to blow glass (virtually!). post office replies to letters to Santa from gems of Columbus, filled rail lines serve with buildings from some many of the midsize https://in.gov, 1 Monument Circle The Sports Legend Experience expansion all over the world. With local attractions of the top architects in towns, but travel INDIANA MEDICAL HISTORY MUSEUM complements the NCAA Hall of Champions named Santa’s Candy Castle, the Santa the world. by car is most com- When you think ‘horror movie asylum,’ this FAMILY OUTINGS in downtown Indy. Families can shoot Claus Museum and Santa’s Stables, you mon. Indianapolis century-old state psychiatric hospital is hoops, be inspired by the stories of have a pretty good idea of what to expect From left: Eero International Saarinen’s North Airport is the state’s exactly what you envision. Guided tours AMISH COUNTRY One of the largest famous sports legends or work together here. For dinner? St Nick’s Restaurant at Christian Church in main hub. roam the former pathology lab, from the Amish communities in the US is near the on a pit-stop challenge, and more. www. Santa’s Lodge, naturally. Columbus; the Indy
cold-slabbed autopsy room to the eerie backroads of northern Indiana around the / Shutterstock Photography Sports Action Right: © Images; / Getty © gnagel childrensmuseum.org, 3000 N Meridian St https://santaclausind.org 500.
104 INDIANA THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 105 FOOD & DRINK is most well known for its steep ridge, nicknamed the Devil’s Backbone, and a CORN DOGS A summer dominated by the popular hike along the Backbone Trail. Iowa State Fair produces a strong following www.iowadnr.gov, 1347 129th St for its most addictive treats, and the « « « cornmeal-coated and fried corn dog has DUNNINGS SPRING PARK When you FAIR GAME the staying power to be in demand year- think of Iowa, you don’t necessarily think of round. (Not all Iowa food comes deep-fried waterfalls. But one visit to the small of town The quintessential on a stick, of course; upscale restaurant of Decorah in northern Iowa will change all cultural represen- Proof in Des Moines has 10-course that, thanks to the town’s proximity to the tation of the state, the long-running gourmet tasting menus.) two waterfall locations of Dunnings Spring Iowa State Fair Park and nearby Malanaphy Springs. While began in 1854 LOOSE MEAT SANDWICH Ground beef. here, take time to explore the cool reaches and has been On a bun. No sauce. No ketchup. No nothin’. of the Dunnings Springs ice caves as well. held every year You don’t get any more midwestern than www.visitdecorah.com/business/dunning- on the Iowa State Fairground since the famed Iowa loose meat sandwich, springs-park, Ice Cave Rd 1856. One of the aka a tavern sandwich, aka a Maid-Rite largest and most sandwich. Try one at any location of MINES OF SPAIN RECREATION AREA well-known state IOWA Maid-Rite, a local chain that claims to Wildlife from wild turkeys and white-tailed fairs in America « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « have invented this sandwich in 1926, or at deer to rarer species like bobcats and takes place over 11 days in August, Canteen Lunch in the Alley in Ottumwa, bald eagles are on display at this diverse POPULATION: 3.1 million | SIZE: 56,273 sq miles | STATE CAPITAL: Des Moines encompassing operating since 1927. state park near Dubuque that features 15 WEBSITE: www.traveliowa.com more than 450 miles of hiking trails, 4 miles of ski trails, acres filled with SWEET CORN ON THE COB Iowa and a bird and butterfly garden. Check campsites, live produces almost 2 billion bushels of corn out the scenic bluffs and overlooks or music stages and over 200 vendors each year, and though much of it gets used launch your canoe into Catfish Creek. www. selling food. You for industrial purposes, there’s plenty of minesofspain.org, 8991 Bellevue Heights Rd can taste all types fresh sweet corn on the cob to go around in of fried items on summer. Grilled and buttered, and served ARTS, HISTORY & CULTURE a stick, from pork L chops to Oreos. with some salt, it’s a simple taste of Iowa Among the events heaven. BRIDGES OF MADISON COUNTY THERE’S MORE TO IOWA THAN THE STEREOTYPICAL BUTTER SCULPTURES, tractor pulls, presidential are rooster crowing caucuses and fried foods on a stick that the name most often conjures. Des Moines boasts a diverse food Madison County is a postcard-perfect contests, cow chip NATURAL ESCAPES representation of the quintessential (dried cow dung) and cultural scene, and Iowa City is a thriving college town and Unesco City of Literature, while Sioux Iowa landscape, particularly the iconic throwing and City is rich in Native American history. Beyond the larger towns, explore the heart of Iowa by touring BACKBONE STATE PARK Iowa’s covered bridges made famous in the carnival rides; the butter cow sculp- oldest state park is also one of its most 1995 film (and 1992 novel) The Bridges the covered bridges of Madison County, visiting offbeat religious communes or hand-feeding bison on ture is a highlight a local farm. There’s also an abundance of nature and plenty of open space besides farmland to explore beautiful, with plenty of outdoor recreation of Madison County. Explore all six of the of any state fair opportunities including camping, canoeing, picturesque bridges as well as nearby experience. all across the state. The towering bluffs on the Mississippi River and the soaring Loess Hills lining the beach volleyball, rock climbing and trout vineyards, breweries and cideries. The Missouri River bookend the rolling farmland of this bucolic state. In the middle you’ll find the commune fishing. The heavily wooded area of rocky town of Winterset is the hub of most tourist Left: Iowa’s iconic
dwellers of the Amana Colonies, and plenty of picture-perfect rural towns. / Shutterstock Mizioznikov © Felix terrain and forested bluffs in Dundee activity in the area, particularly around the farmland.
106 IOWA THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 107 «« ITINERARY
Day 1 The Iowa State Capitol building makes a good opener as you start your day exploring Des Moines; every detail at this bling-heavy space seems to try to outdo the next. Join a free tour and you can climb halfway up the dome. followed by an intake of art at the Des Moines Art Center and Pappajohn Sculpture Park. Stroll the cool shops in the walkable East Village neighborhood before stopping for a drink in the bustling Court District downtown. If you’re here in spring, an © VDB Photos / Shutterstock VDB Photos © / Shutterstock Kephart © Kyle Iowa Cubs minor league baseball game is not to « « « courthouse square. www.madisoncounty. Iowa hometown of Winterset features a a 4-acre portion of downtown Des Moines HAWKEYE BUFFALO RANCH be missed. com/the-covered-bridges movie theater and an array of John Wayne real estate within the city’s larger Western There’s more than corn at this family GETTING artifacts including original movie posters, Gateway Park. It features 29 works of art farm in Fredericksburg. You can hand- Days 2 & 3 THERE & IOWA CITY The youthful, artsy vibe here is film wardrobes, scripts, contracts, letters donated by the Pappajohn family and feed the small herd of bison on wagon A couple hours’ drive east along I-80 will courtesy of the University of Iowa campus, and even one of the Duke’s custom cars. valued at $40 million. Stroll the well- rides during public tours. The 500-acre AROUND bring you to Iowa City, home to good art and natural history www.johnwaynebirthplace.museum, 205 S manicured grounds with your camera farm dating back to 1854 also offers a fun college town that Des Moines has the museums. It spills across both sides of John Wayne Dr ready. www.desmoinesartcenter.org, Native American history, wildlife viewing is also a Unesco City state’s main air hub, the Iowa River (which has lovely walks on 1330 Grand Ave and, at the on-site store, buffalo meat. of Literature. After and although bus the banks); to the east it mingles with the LEWIS & CLARK INTERPRETIVE www.hawkeyebuffalo.com, exploring the compact and rail lines do downtown and its charming downtown. In summer, when the CENTER Located in Sioux City near the 3034 Pembroke Ave exist, the car is king FAMILY OUTINGS charming pedestrian in this predomi- student-to-townie ratio evens out, the city banks of the Missouri River along Iowa’s mall, drop into Prairie nantly rural state. mellows somewhat. The school’s writing western border, this 20,000-sq-ft cultural AMANA COLONIES Originally established SPOOK CAVE & CAMPGROUND The cave Lights Bookstore in the I-80, America’s programs are renowned, and Iowa City was complex brings history to life with a 14ft as religious communes in the 1800s, at the base of the 90ft bluff here is only evening. The next day second-longest named a Unesco City of Literature in 2008. Spirit of Discovery sculpture of famous this quaint community of seven villages accessible by boat, but don’t let that deter head out to the villages highway, runs east– of the Amana Colonies, For a sharp parody of the town and school, explorers Lewis and Clark plus traditional stretches along a 17-mile loop about you from boarding a canoe and exploring west through the founded in the mid- whole state, often read Jane Smiley’s novel Moo. Native American games, exhibits, art halfway between Iowa City and Cedar the always 47°F environs of Spook Cave via 1800s by Inspirationists, with long stretches www.icgov.org galleries and DVD presentations. Rapids. It’s reminiscent of Amish Country tourist boat tour. Camp near a trout stream for a craft-filled side of of empty space www.siouxcitylcic.com, 900 Larsen Park Rd (although the villages embrace tourism and waterfall on this family-friendly site in offbeat local history. between towns. JOHN WAYNE BIRTHPLACE & MUSEUM and technology), and handcrafted arts and McGregor, with cabins and golf cart rentals Beware of snow and As the world’s only museum dedicated PAPPAJOHN SCULPTURE PARK This goods are the name of the game. The area also available. It’s open for relaxing stays From left: Grilled ice conditions when sweet corn on the cob; driving in winter. to legendary Hollywood actor John expansive outdoor sculpture museum also offers several festivals and a historical May through October. http://spookcave. a Madison County Wayne, this 6100-sq-ft museum in his (unrelated to Papa John’s Pizza) occupies museum. www.amanacolonies.com com, 13299 Spook Cave Rd bridge.
108 IOWA THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 109 « « « SIBLING FOOD & DRINK Warren Dunes State Park. RIVALRY www.miwinetrail.com Few food rivalries BEER CITY ALE TRAIL Get a taste of the in America are booming Grand Rapids beer scene along TRAVERSE CITY FOOD SCENE Food as intense as the the Beer City Ale Trail, where you can markets, breweries, wineries, farm-to-fork long-simmering sample ales from more than 80 breweries cuisine and cherries in abundance make feud between two in Grand Rapids and nearby communities. dining in small Traverse City, the ‘Cherry next-door restau- rants in downtown Founders Brewing Company is the most Capital,’ unique. Sample wood-fired pizza, Detroit. Both serve iconic local stop on the trail, but leave time seven-course meals and even cherry- the signature to explore new favorites dotted throughout dusted tortillas for your meals in this foodie Coney Island hot one of America’s premier craft beer destination. dog (or coney dog), centers. Use the Brewsader app to unlock a Detroit invention that consists of a deals and perks. www.experiencegr.com/ ZINGERMAN’S DELICATESSEN hot dog topped things-to-do/beer-city/beer-tour Michigan’s Jewish community has made with chili sauce, the state a hotbed of corned beef on rye, chopped onions CHERRY PIE They say you don’t get and the quintessential version comes from and yellow mus- any more American than apple pie, but one of the most famous sandwich shops in tard. American Coney Island was Michiganders would beg to disagree. America, this Midwest institution in a small opened by Greek MICHIGAN The midwestern state produces some historic building in Ann Arbor. Started as immigrant Gust « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « « 70% of America’s tart cherries, which go a nondescript Jewish deli in 1982, today Keros in 1917, beautifully inside a flaky piecrust. Grab a Zingerman’s makes a wide range of foods followed a few POPULATION: 10 million | SIZE: 96,716 sq miles | STATE CAPITAL: Lansing slice at Crane’s Pie Pantry in the lakeshore including breads and cheeses, but its years later by LARGEST CITY: Detroit | WEBSITE: www.michigan.org Lafayette Coney town of Fennville. claim to fame remains the remarkable deli Island, which sandwiches. Though it’s on the expensive was opened by CONEY DOG The ‘coney’ – a hot dog side, this institution is worth it. Gust’s brother Bill smothered with chili and onions – is a www.zingermansdeli.com, 422 Detroit St (reportedly after Detroit specialty. When the craving strikes a falling out with his brother) right (and it will), competing versions all have NATURAL ESCAPES next door using a V their claim to be the top, but whichever you slightly different choose, this hearty variation on a hot dog BELLE ISLE PARK The largest city-owned hot dog and chili. THERE’S MORE TO MICHIGAN THAN THE MOTOR CITY HERITAGE OF CAR MANUFACTURING. carries the essence of Detroit flavor. island park in the US, this nearly 1000-acre Detroiters remain public park just minutes from downtown fiercely loyal to one With the nation’s longest freshwater coastline, more than 100 public beaches, and 19 million acres of restaurant or the LAKE MICHIGAN SHORE WINE Detroit is the ultimate urban retreat. forest, the state is an outdoor enthusiast’s dreamscape. It has more than 100 state parks and recreation other, but never TRAIL Explore the tranquil beachfront Situated in the middle of the Detroit River, both. Lafayette areas in addition to the second-highest number of ski resorts in America. Detroit is in the midst of an communities of southwest Michigan, with which separates Michigan from Canada, is smaller and arts-led renaissance, Grand Rapids is one of America’s leading craft beer meccas, and Ann Arbor is home stops at more than 20 local wineries along the leafy enclave features an aquarium, more dive-y, while the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail, which conservatory, nature center, golf course, American is larger to the largest football stadium in the country. That’s not even counting the array of charming small and has more of a extends more than 70 miles from New maritime museum, swimming beach and towns from the beaches of Saugatuck to the scenic shores of Traverse City, or the state’s Upper Peninsula, traditional diner Buffalo to Saugatuck. Along the way, check yacht club. www.belleisleconservancy. feel. Judge for blanketed in serene, forested wilderness. There are a variety of island escapes in Michigan, from the out classic beach towns like St Joseph and org, bridge access at E Jefferson Ave and E yourself.
remote wilderness of Isle Royale National Park to tourist-friendly, car-free Mackinac Island. Images / Getty © StevenSchremp be sure to save time to relax at laid-back Grand Blvd
146 MICHIGAN THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 147 From left: The Thinker bronze sculpture by Auguste Rodin in front of the Detroit Institute of Arts; Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore; Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Previous page: Rock Harbor Lighthouse in Isle Royale National Park. © Viktor Posnov / Getty Images; Left: © Monica Wells / Alamy Stock Photo Stock Alamy / Wells © Monica Left: Images; / Getty Posnov Viktor © Photo Stock Alamy / Schaedig James ©
ISLE ROYALE NATIONAL PARK This endless bounty of natural beauty continues old-school environs with live music almost popping up across Detroit, the colorful remote wilderness in Lake Superior is in this off-the-beaten-path wilderness in nightly (it’s closed Mondays); note the street project presents 18 installations closer to Thunder Bay, Canada, than Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, where small curved bar made to look like piano keys. on grounds stretching nearly a city block; V Michigan, but its isolated location is one mountains sprawled out across vast virgin In addition to the Detroit-style jazz, local there are also a few indoor spaces. This of its chief assets. One of the least-visited wilderness reveal spectacular fall foliage history and interesting characters, the club one-of-a-kind space dedicated to African FUN FACT « « « US national parks is a serene and solitary and myriad small inland lakes, including serves up killer soul food dishes like catfish culture includes a sculpture garden, a location with few modern amenities but the popular Lake of the Clouds. Caution: or liver and gizzards. variety of African beads and materials, and Mackinac WELCOME abundant wildlife including wolves and bears are common in ‘the Porkies.’ www.theofficialbakerskeyboardlounge.com, an ‘African language wall.’ The Heidelberg Bridge TO HELL moose. One of the best places in America www.michigan.gov/dnr 20510 Livernois Ave Project is another block-spanning art crosses 5 to view the northern lights, the park, sadly, installation, with polka-dotted streets, miles over The small, unincor- is closed in winter. www.nps.gov/isro SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL DETROIT INSTITUTE OF ARTS With houses covered in Technicolor paint blobs, porated commu- LAKESHORE One of the most gorgeous one of the top art collections in the US, and strange doll sculptures in yards. the Straits of nity of Hell, about natural locations in the country is this this historic museum encompasses more mbad.org, 6559 Grand River Ave; www. Mackinac; 15 miles from Ann PICTURED ROCKS NATIONAL Arbor, makes the LAKESHORE This national treasure at northwest Michigan gem encompassing than 658,000 sq ft, including an 1150-seat heidelberg.org, 3600 block of Heidelberg St its exposed most of its unusual the tip of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula miles of scenic forests, beaches, sand auditorium, a 380-seat lecture/recital hall span means name with local is a secluded paradise of colorful rock dunes, bluffs and inland lakes. Among and an art reference library. At its heart MOTOWN MUSEUM For an intimate that the attractions that formations and sandstone cliffs that the wealth of outdoor activities are dune are the Detroit Industry Murals, whose look at Detroit’s cultural heritage, a trip include the Hell create caves, arches and stunning vistas climbing, fishing, cross-country skiing and twenty-seven panels were executed by to the city’s Motown Museum is a must. bridge Hole Bar & Diner. sometimes Amorous travelers across 42 miles of Lake Superior shoreline. island camping. Spectacular sunsets await. Diego Rivera. The museum is in Detroit’s Located in a historic home on West Grand can get married The best way to explore the coastline www.nps.gov/slbe Cultural Center Historic District, which also Boulevard that served as Motown Records’ closes due at Hell’s Chapel is by kayak or boat in summer, with includes the Detroit Public Library. original studio, a tour of ‘Hitsville USA’ to extreme of Love and, for snowmobiling and ice-fishing opportunities ARTS, HISTORY & CULTURE http://dia.org, 5200 Woodward Ave exposes the fascinating history behind the around $100, any- weather. available in winter. www.nps.gov/piro legendary label. The museum is currently one can become mayor of the town BAKER’S KEYBOARD LOUNGE This MBAD AFRICAN BEAD MUSEUM AND raising funds for a massive $50 million for a day. PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS WILDERNESS Detroit institution is one of the world’s OUTDOOR INSTALLATIONS One of expansion. www.motownmuseum.org, « STATE PARK Michigan’s seemingly oldest jazz clubs, operating since 1934 in several funky outdoor art installations 2648 W Grand Blvd
148 MICHIGAN THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 149 «« ITINERARY
Day 1 Spend the day exploring Detroit by visiting a trio of museums: the Motown Museum, Detroit Institute of Arts, and The Henry Ford in nearby Dearborn. Check out the ongoing artistic revitalization of the city at offbeat instal- lations like the MBAD African Bead Museum, then roam the scenic grounds of Belle Isle Park. At night, catch a live jazz performance at Baker’s Keyboard Lounge.
Day 2 Grab a Coney dog from Lafayette Coney Island and head west to the idyllic beach community of Saugatuck, stopping en route to explore the beau- « « « tiful college town of Ann Arbor, where a trip to the GETTING university’s Big House SAUGATUCK & DOUGLAS The arts- ski runs across a vast terrain in Boyne maker Henry Ford, one of Detroit’s most From left: The Grand (the largest stadium in THERE & heavy southwest Michigan beachfront Falls. The year-round resort complex also famous sons. America’s largest indoor/ Hotel on Mackinac the US) is a must. community of Saugatuck showcases one includes 10 golf courses, zip-lining and outdoor museum sprawls across 250 acres Island; a rest stop while AROUND cycling on the Leelanau of the Midwest’s most beautiful beaches Michigan’s largest indoor water park. that also include President Kennedy’s limo, Peninsula wine trail Day 3 You’ll have little (Oval Beach) in addition to an unrelentingly http://boyne.com, 1 Boyne Mountain Rd the Rosa Parks bus from Montgomery, and near Traverse City. From Saugatuck, make trouble reaching cute downtown packed with more than a the Wright Brothers’ workshop, as well as your way to Grand Rapids most of Michigan’s with a quick stop to dozen small art galleries. Peruse fine art in DINOSAUR GARDENS Tucked away a digital projection theater and live factory cities by public check out the beautiful, Saugatuck and the adjacent community of in Ossineke, in a secluded stretch of demos. www.thehenryford.org, 20900 transit or Amtrak Dutch-inspired village rail, but to truly Douglas to discover why this gay-friendly northeast Michigan near the western shore Oakwood Blvd of Holland. Once there, experience all the area is called the Art Coast of Michigan. of Lake Huron, hides this delightfully weird sample brews in this craft state has to offer, www.saugatuck.com 25-acre ‘prehistoric zoo,’ where life-size, MACKINAC ISLAND Take a step back beer city. a car is a must. In hand-sculpted replicas of dinosaurs and in time to this car-free island nestled addition, some of Day 4 cave men and women come to life across in the Straits of Mackinac between the Michigan’s more FAMILY OUTINGS Head north from Grand remote island 26 Instagram-worthy exhibits. There’s even northern tip of Michigan’s ‘mitt’ and the Rapids to the endlessly attractions are only BOYNE MOUNTAIN RESORT Did you a dinosaur-themed mini-golf course. Upper Peninsula. Biking and riding in a scenic town of Traverse accessible by boat know Michigan is home to more ski resorts http://dinosaurgardensllc.com, 11160 US-23 S horse-drawn carriage are the chief modes City and northern Michi- or ferry. Detroit than any US state besides New York? One of transport for exploring the island’s fort gan’s surrounding Leela- Metropolitan nau Peninsula to explore of the premier resorts in the Midwest is There’s more than and tourist-friendly village, distinguished Airport is the state’s THE HENRY FORD Sleeping Bear Dunes main hub. northern Michigan’s expansive Boyne just a few Model T antique autos at this by charming historic Colonial and Victorian National Lakeshore.
Mountain, which features more than 115 museum in Dearborn dedicated to auto Planet Pick / Lonely Aubrie Right: © Images; / Getty Bibikow Walter © architecture. www.mackinacisland.org
150 MICHIGAN THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 151 Redwood State Park, CA 36 Carhenge, NE 167 Ford’s Theatre, DC 62 Shoshone Falls Park, ID 91 Dr Evermor’s Sculpture Park 315 Grand Ole Opry, TN 268 ABOUT THE AUTHORS Sioux Falls Park, SD 265 Grounds for Sculpture, NJ 192 0, NV 182 Smith Rock State Park, OR 238 Pappajohn Sculpture Park, IA 108 Santa Fe Opera, NM 200 Amy C. Balfour (West Virginia) has hiked, paddled and Carolyn McCarthy (Colorado, Utah and Wyoming) Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, MN 154 Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, MN 157 Second City, IL 99 skied her way across West Virginia. She has written or has contributed to over 50 titles for Lonely Planet, Starved Rock State Park, IL 97 Storm King Art Center, NY 211 Walt Disney Concert Hall, CA 34 co-written more than 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. including Colorado and the Southwest. Her website is St Joseph Peninsula State Park, FL 69 Tippet Rise Art Center, MT 173 Tours www.carolynmccarthy.org. Swallow Falls State Park, MD 131 Vollis Simpson Whirligig Park, NC 218 Alcatraz, CA 38 Alison Bing (Arizona and California) specializes in travel Table Rock State Park, TX 257 Skiing and Winter Sports Blanchard Springs Caverns, AR 29 predicaments – including accepting dinner invitations John Newton (Connecticut, Delaware, Montana, New Tallulah Gorge State Park, GA 76 Big Sky Resort, MT 171 Historic Stagville Plantation, NC 217 from cults and trusting the camel to know the way. She’s Hampshire, New Jersey and Pennsylvania) has written Tishomingo State Park, MS 159 Boyne Mountain Resort, MI 150 Laura Plantation, LA 123 survived to write 52 Lonely Planet guidebooks. travel stories for AFAR, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, New Turner Falls Park, OK 231 Bretton Woods, NH 187 Little Rock Central High School, AR 30 York Post, Men’s Journal, Travel+Leisure and others. Valley of Fire State Park, NV 180 Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, WY 321 McLeod Plantation, SC 259 Harmony Difo (Nebraska and Oklahoma) is a moveable Waimea Canyon State Park, HI 86 Lutsen Mountains, MN 156 Newport Vineyards, RI 252 feast, a writer, reviewer, journalist and slow traveler Elizabeth Paulson (Rhode Island, Vermont and Watkins Glen State Park, NY 206 Mt Bachelor, OR 238 Plimoth Plantation, MA 142 experienced in short and longform travel content for all Wisconsin) has been to all 50 states and a dozen Presidential Libraries and Homes Snowbird, UT 287 Spook Cave & Campground, IA 109 formats and on all continents. countries. She’s never met a volunteer museum Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library, IL 97 Steamboat Mountain Resort, CO 45 Trans-Allegheny Asylum, PA 310 interpreter she hasn’t liked. Clinton Presidential Library, AR 31 Utah Olympic Park, UT 287 Waverly Hills Sanatorium, KY 119 Jay Gentile (Illinois, Indiana, Iowa and Michigan) is an Monticello, VA 296 Sports and Athletics Whitney Plantation, LA 123 award-winning freelance journalist, travel writer and Brandon Presser (Minnesota, New York, Ohio, Mount Vernon, VA 297 Allen Fieldhouse 112 Trains frequent Lonely Planet contributor specializing in US- Virginia and Washington, DC) has spent time in over Truman Presidential Museum, MO 168 Augusta National Masters Tournament 77 Cog Railway, NH 187, 188 based travel. 120 countries, and has written over 50 books about R Boundary Waters, MN 153 Grand Canyon Railway, AZ 22 travel. He contributes to publications including Rivers Bryant-Denny Stadium, AL 9 Hurricane Turn, AK 18 Holly Hurst (South Dakota and North Dakota) is a Bloomberg, Departures, and The Daily Beast, and was a Arkansas River Rafting, CO 43 Camden Yards, MD 135 Southwest Chief, various 22 freelance writer who seeks out the best in food, wine, host on Bravo’s television series, Tour Group. Chicago Riverwalk, IL 98 Cameron Indoor Stadium, NC 219 Sunset Limited, various 22 and live music across the country. Colorado River, AZ 22 Churchill Downs, KY 116 W Brendan Sainsbury (Alaska and Oregon) has been Missouri River, MT & NE 171, 175 Coors Field, CO 47 Wildlife and Animals Adam Karlin (Alabama, Florida, Hawaii, Louisiana, researching the Pacific Northwest region for Lonely New & Gauley Rivers, WV 309 Delaware Water Gap, NJ 191 Aniakchak National Monument, AK 15 Maine, Maryland and Mississippi) was born in Maryland, Planet for 15 years. He has a special affection for Ozark National Scenic Riverways, MO 166 Fenway Park, MA 139 Assateague Island National Seashore, MD 131 lives in New Orleans, and has covered the USA from Alaska. River Walk, TX 280 Indianapolis Motor Speedway, IN 105 Audubon Louisiana Nature Park, LA 124 Maine to Hawaii for Lonely Planet. Saco River, NH 187 Iron Bowl, AL 10 Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, UT 286 Zuzanna Sitek (Arkansas) is Poland-born and New Wild Rogue Wilderness, OR 239 Lambeau Field, WI 315 Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge, MD 131 Lauren Keith (Kansas) is a writer, editor and Kansas Jersey-raised, but has never felt more at home than White River Refuge, AR 29 Louisville Slugger Museum, KY 119 Chincoteague Island, VA 295 native who wishes that getting home was as easy as she does in Northwest Arkansas. Roadside Attractions Mohonk Preserve/The Gunks, NY 207 Congress Avenue Bridge Bat Colony, TX 279 clicking your ruby slippers. Abita Springs Mystery House, LA 124 Mount Marathon Race, AK 16 National Buffalo Museum, ND 223 Kaidi Stroud (Idaho) is an educator and freelance Corn Palace, SD 265 Muhammad Ali Center, KY 117 Duke Lemur Center, NC 219 Barbara Noe Kennedy (Georgia) is a travel journalist writer in Idaho. Travel these days includes spouse, kids, Dinosaur Kingdom II, VA 298 Museum of the Horse, KY 118 Hawkeye Buffalo Ranch, IA 109 based in Arlington, Virginia. and pooch – preferably out of cell range. International UFO Museum, NM 201 Santa Rosa Blue Hole, NM 202 Henry Doorly Zoo, NE 177 Lookout Mountain, TN 270 St Paul Curling Club, MN 155 High Desert Museum, OR 240 Alex Leviton (North Carolina and Washington) has Kerry Walker (Missouri and Nevada) is an award- Mall of America, MN 156 Stratosphere, NV 184 Manatee Viewing Center, FL 70 spent many years in Durham, North Carolina and hiking winning British travel writer, author, photographer and Mystery Hole, WV 311 Triple Crown of Surfing, HI 83 Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge, FL 68 the trails around the Pacific Northwest. translator, and a lover of mountains, cold places and South of the Border, SC 260 Truckee River Whitewater Park, NV 185 National Elk Refuge, WY 319 true wilderness. Spam Museum, MN 157 Venice Skatepark, CA 41 Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, FL 75 Emily Matchar (Kentucky, Massachusetts, Super Museum, IL 99 Wrigley Field, IL 99 Patagonia Preserve, AZ 23 New Mexico, South Carolina, and Tennessee) is a writer Luke Waterson (Texas) is a novelist and travel writer World’s Largest Ball of Twine, MN 157 Theater Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, KS 112 based in Hong Kong and Chapel Hill, North Carolina. based in Wales who writes for travel publishers Lonely S Akron Civic Theater, OH 227 Two Step, HI 86 Her work has appeared in the New York Times, the Planet as well as the Telegraph, the Independent, BBC Sculpture Parks Broadway & Times Square, NY 208 Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, KS 231 Atlantic, the New Republic, the Washington Post and Travel, Adventure.com and others. Find out more about Cadillac Ranch, TX 278 Fargo Theatre, SD 222 World Center Birds of Prey, ID 93 other publications. his writing at https://lukeandhiswords.com.
326 INDEX THE UNIQUE STATES OF AMERICA 327