The Suit Case PARIS — There’S an Elegant Mood Sweeping Through Fashion, and Karl Lagerfeld Caught It in His Fall Collection for Chanel

OSCARS GET WAR JITTERS/2 JAPAN’S LUXURY VIEW/12 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheWEDNESDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 12, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 51 $2.00 Sportswear The Suit Case PARIS — There’s an elegant mood sweeping through fashion, and Karl Lagerfeld caught it in his fall collection for Chanel. But elegance often comes with a twist these days, and the line was also au courant, this time with a bit of a Sixties and rock ’n’ roll spin. There were fab jackets, of course, shown with super-short skirts, sometimes with the addition of a little lace or fur. Here, one of the great-looking new Chanels that makes Karl’s case for suits. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 9.

Retail’s Latest Worry: Rocketing Gas Prices Cost Shoppers Billions

By David Moin NEW YORK — These days, when retailers say consumers are running out of gas, they mean it in more ways than one. With rising threats of domestic terrorism, the weak economy and the wicked winter, consumers have been beaten down. Now, soaring gas prices are fueling even more angst — and the result is that the economy is losing $1 billion in consumer expenditure for every penny increase in pump prices, according IANNONI

G to estimates from Salomon Smith NNI A See Gas, Page13 IOV G

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2003 WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear 12, Beverly Hills Postpones GENERAL PARIS COLLECTIONS: Sonia Rykiel, Y-3, Cacharel and Martine Sitbon were MARCH , 6 among the highlights as the runway season drew to a close. Walk of Style Ceremony With war, terrorism and the weak economy weighing on consumers, 1 soaring gas prices are now taking more cash from them — and retailers. By Rose Apodaca Jones Carpet Diaries: Confessions of a WEST: The threat of war had its first Oscar-related impact Tuesday as the Glamour Boy.”

WEDNESDAY Rodeo Drive Committee postponed its inaugural induction for the Walk of Style. LOS ANGELES — The threat of Those events will be much 2 war with Iraq had its first Oscar- smaller and much more low-key The suit came back for Ann Taylor Stores in the fourth quarter, and there were related impact Tuesday when than the induction ceremony, profits tucked into the pockets, as it posted net income of $16.1 million.

WWD, 3 the Rodeo Drive Committee de- continued the spokeswoman. “It MAINSTREAM: Marisa Christina is leaving behind the conversational, cided to postpone its inaugural seemed inappropriate to have schoolteacher sweaters and going for a more sophisticated look come fall. induction gala for the Walk of such a large-scale festivity at 10 Style honoring Giorgio Armani. this time when it can stand on SUZY: Being prepared for a special Oscar delivery…going to Hell (and And the Walk of Style might its own at a later date.” 4 Heaven) with the Young Lions…Prince Charles’ royal pain. not be the only thing canceled. As Some 600 guests, including rumors of war grow, so does nerv- many of Armani’s celebrity Obituary ...... 19 ousness over whether America friends, local politicians and Classified Advertisements ...... 15-19 will want to watch Hollywood other VIPs, were expected to To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is stars on the red carpet if U.S. turn out for the induction, the [email protected], using the individual's name. troops are battling in Baghdad. first in what the Rodeo Drive SUBSCRIPTION RATES While Academy Award officials Committee hopes will be dozens U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. insist the Oscars will go on, there honoring style icons along its All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. are reports that contingency tony thoroughfare. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (856) 786-2140; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. plans for possible cancellation The 200 block was set to be Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 10531, Riverton, N.J. 08076-0531. are being developed just in case. roadblocked for the sunset fes- WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Although an Armani spokes- tivities, hosted by Mercedes- issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. man in Milan said the designer Benz USA and W magazine WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., at the moment plans to go ahead (owned by WWD’s parent compa- a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. with his trip to Los Angeles next Giorgio Armani ny, Fairchild Publications) and No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be week to take part in a slew of so- the unveiling of artist Robert expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 cial events scheduled around case. “There are still two other Graham’s 14-foot “Torso” sculp- Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. his visit and the Oscars, sources significant events happening that ture on the street median. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 say it was the likelihood of his week,” noted the company’s West Graham’s sculpture also served Printed in the U.S.A. being a no-show at the March 19 Coast spokeswoman, referring to as the model for the ceremonial All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of event due to the potential of war the dinner Vanity Fair editor trophy. The event, including the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. that prompted the event’s can- Graydon Carter is throwing in public viewing of the statue, is For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com cellation. honor of director Martin Scorcese now indefinitely postponed. “Mr. Armani didn’t want to trav- and Armani Wednesday night at “In light of what’s going on in el at this time,” said a high-rank- Mr. Chow, as well as the Thursday the political arena right now, it's ing source here close to the event. evening party at Emporio Armani just not the time to celebrate In Brief Armani’s camp, however, was for People columnist Steven this beautiful statue Robert adamant Tuesday that is not the Cojocaru and his new book “Red Continued on page 14 ● ROLEX DEPARTURE: Martha Nype Webster has left Rolex Watch USA, sources told WWD. Company executives could not be reached for comment. Webster spent 19 years at W magazine, rising to vice president and corporate publisher for fine jewelry and watches before moving to Rolex as director of communications in 2001, where she oversaw all advertising, marketing and public relations in the U.S. Webster, who is married to Roberto Coin’s U.S. president, Peter Webster, could not be reached for comment at press time.

● SPIEGEL’S DWINDLING OPTIONS: Distressed catalog mar- keter Spiegel Group said Tuesday it expects to file for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection “in the near future,” unless it is able to quickly find alternative sources of financing. Spiegel made the acknowledgement in connection with its disclosure that, because of a payout, or early amortization, an event triggered by its inability to meet certain minimum-performance criteria on several asset-backed notes, monthly excess cash flow will be divert- ed to repay principal to investors of certain of its securitized transactions that underlie its credit card business. As reported, Spiegel’s special-purpose bank subsidiary First Consumers National Bank on March 7 discontinued charging privileges on all of its MasterCard and Visa accounts. FCNB also has discontinued reimbursing Eddie Bauer, Spiegel Catalog and Newport News for charges made with the private label credit cards it is- sued to the Spiegel-related firms.

● WANT FREEDOM FRIES WITH THAT?: Anti-French grumblings among Capitol Hill conservatives continues. On Tuesday, Rep. Bob Ney (R., Ohio) ordered three House office building cafete- rias to change their menus to read “freedom fries” and “freedom toast” instead of french fries and french toast. Ney called his edict symbolic, “to show the strong displeasure of many on Capitol Hill with the actions of our so-called ally, France.” However, such pronouncements don’t appear to be gaining trac- tion. Bush administration officials continue to proclaim France its friend, despite the country’s opposition at the United Nations to a U.S.-led war with Iraq. WWDStock Market Index for March 11

Composite: 90.70 Broadline Stores: 90.76 Softline Stores: 86.96

-0.60 -0.79 -0.58

Vendors: 95.23 Textiles: 91.16 Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. 0.38 0.78 3 WWD,

Strong Margins Buoy Ann Taylor Profits WEDNESDAY

By Jennifer Weitzman which represent roughly 60 per- more refined merchandise. come in 2001 of $29.1 million, or cent of sales during the quarter. The company said it was low- 67 cents. Excluding the effects of

NEW YORK — The suit came In addition, Loft was successful ering first-quarter earnings the amortization of goodwill in , back for Ann Taylor Stores in the with the $10 off any sweater pro- guidance to between 39 and 41 2001, income would have been MARCH fourth quarter, and there were motion, which created multiple cents, from 45 to 47 cents, and $39.8 million, or 90 cents. Sales profits tucked into the pockets. purchases.

However, the chilly weather “Sweaters with versatile 12, and lackluster economy forced styles that could be worn dress Full-price selling and lower inventory the New York-based company to up or down performed well,” 2003 warn it was lowering its forecast Krill said. “During the quarter, drove gross margins to 52 percent of for the first quarter. we drove the business through Saying it reversed fortunes by better full-price selling and a sales compared with 45.3 percent of slashing inventories and selling focus on tops and accessories more merchandise at full price and more planned promotions.” sales in the year-ago quarter. in the final quarter of 2002, the She also noted merchandise 588-unit women’s specialty re- will be allocated by store loca- said it expects first-quarter for the 12 months rose 6.3 per- tailer reported net income of tion so that stores in suburban comps to fall in the low- to mid- cent to $1.38 billion over $1.3 bil- $16.1 million, or 35 cents a dilut- areas will receive more relaxed single digits. lion, but declined 3.9 percent on ed share, for the three months and casual clothing and stores in J. Patrick In 2002, profits soared a comp basis, with AT stores ended Feb. 1, matching Wall locations in close proximity to Spainhour 175.4 percent to $80.2 million, or down 5.3 percent and Loft falling Street estimates. AT bounced high office populations will have $1.72 a diluted share, over in- 1 percent. back from a year-ago loss of $332,000, or 1 cent. Earnings in the year-ago period were nega- tively impacted by $17 million pretax one-time charges and $2.8 million in goodwill amortization. The bottom and top lines went in different directions, as they have for many retailers this reporting season. Sales in the quarter notched down 5.2 percent to $352.2 million from $371.4 million in last year’s quarter and dwindled 12.3 percent on a comparable-store basis, including a 14.6 percent decrease at Ann Taylor stores and a 7.1 percent decrease at the Loft division, its more casual, lower-priced concept. Full-price selling and lower inventory drove gross margins to FAME 52 percent of sales compared with 45.3 percent of sales in last year’s quarter. Results arrived after the FABULOUS FASHION, EXCEPTIONAL VALUE close of the markets, but AT’s shares Tuesday closed down 31 cents, or 1.6 percent, at $18.75 in New York Stock Exchange trading. The stock has hovered less than $1 above its 52-week low of AWAITS YOU AT THE $17.84 reached on Jan. 27. Chairman and chief executive JAVITS CENTER J. Patrick Spainhour said, “Our continued progress in aligning MANHATTAN our product assortments to our core brand competencies and MARCH 16-18, 2003 enhancing our client’s overall shopping experienced enables Sunday & Monday 9-6 us to sell more merchandise at full price.” Tuesday 9-4 In addition, he attributed the profit increase to AT’s tight inventory control and efficiencies in the global sourcing. Spainhour said, “Our mer- N chandise team for AT and Loft early 700 Immediate Spring/Summer & Fall Preview honed their focus on serving our unique clients by better aligning collections of fabulous fashions at exceptional value. with the concept’s classic styling.” Looking ahead, he noted the company will refocus its efforts on relaxed tops. Spainhour also noted that, while the search for a new AT Premiering at FAME - "Jewelry-To-Go" a new "carry-out" president to replace Kim Roy, who left in January, continues, he hopes it will be concluded in a section devoted to the largest category in women's accessories. few weeks. Speaking about its AT division, Spainhour said careerwear, AT’s core competency, continued to perform well, as sales in both Exhibiting Info Registration Info suits and dresses were up to plan. However, tops and sepa- New York: 212-686-4412 800-646-0084 rates remained challenging, and Spainhour acknowledged they Toll Free: 877-904-FAME (3263) www.fameshows.com were too basic and lacked color. In addition, he said the holi- day selling season was not as powerful as he would have liked, blaming a lack of key gift- giving items for the shortfall. FAME IS PRODUCED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS INC (BJI), A BUSINESS MEDIA COMPANY THAT SPECIALIZES IN SERVING THE WOMEN'S AND MEN'S Kay Krill, president of Loft, FASHION RETAIL MARKETS. ONE OF BJI’S PROPERTIES IS ACCESSORIESTHESHOW (FORMERLY KNOWN AS FASHION ACCESSORIES EXPO). said key items were tops, footwear, accessories and outerwear, 4 Zeta-Jones’ Exit Signs ● Renée Busts Out ● Young Lions Go To Hell

2003 Gallery. Princess Marina is also a sculptor of note, the

12, wife of the distinguished writer Prince Michael of Greece and the mother of two stunning princesses, Olga and Alexandra. Once upon a time they all lived

MARCH downtown in New York and everyone clamored to have , them at their parties. Now it’s Paris’ turn. The other night, Lee Thaw gave a little dinner for Marina in the back room at Swifty’s, and they all came. Backed against the banquettes were such as the Dowager Viscountess Rothermere, the Japanese beauty WEDNESDAY and widow of press lord Vere Rothermere; Cécile and Ezra Zilkha; Juan Pablo and Pilar Molyneux; Pierre

WWD, Durand; Kenneth Jay Lane; Alexander Hitz; John

y Loring; Victor Barcimento; Carolina Herrera; Kartica Soekarno, and Alexandra Brown. Marina and Michael are great supporters of Larry Lovett’s Venetian Heritage, whose mission is to preserve and restore the beautiful city. The guests in Lee’s little grupetto were all Venice lovers — or almost all. ● Angels, devils, saints and sinners of all sorts will dance the night away at the New York Public Library’s

z Young Lions Benefit on April 24 in the Bartos Forum. Taking its theme from “The Divine Comedy,” Dante’s 14th-century poetic journey into the afterlife, the benefit’s Young Lions will wear halos or horns and costumes both heavenly and hellish. This year’s party co- chairmen are Eliza Bolen, Belle Burden Davis, Hannah Griswold, Punch Hutton, Jacqueline Sackler and Stacey Bendet Weiner. For the evening, the library will be transformed into visions of celestial and infernal fun. The diabolical DJ Johnny Dynell will spin and entertainment will be staged by Chi Chi Valenti. The music will be light as a cloud and there will be heavenly libations from the bar. Who wrote this script? ● The delightful Alannah Weston is delighted to invite her guests to Windsor on the weekend of April 4-7 for the exhibition of photographs at the Gallery at Windsor, located at the resort owned by her parents, the Galen Westons of Canadian billions. To be curated by Barnaby

Su Drabble, the show’s focus is on such post-Sixties photographers By Aileen Mehle as Nan Goldin, Thomas Struth, Diane Arbus, David Hockney and Try this story on for size: Rumors abound Philip-Lorca DiCorcia. Guests that an extremely pregnant Catherine also will dine at the Windsor Zeta-Jones won’t be taking any House, lunch on the beach, dine eye® unnecessary chances at the Oscars. Just in at the Clubhouse, lunch at the case — in the excitement of maybe AlannahAlannah Weston Equestrian Centre and dine at the winning for Best Supporting Actress — she decides to Beach Club. And then there are put on a show of her own while the big one is going on those photographs. on stage. Supposedly, Catherine is planning on having a ● team of medics standing by backstage and an ambulance Prince Charles has had to waiting practically on the edge of the red carpet to cancel his plans to go skiing in whisk her to Cedars Sinai Hospital 3 miles away. This Switzerland over Easter. Drat! It would be ever so convenient as that’s where she is seems he was planting a hedge at already planning to have the baby and where her two- Highgrove, his country estate, year-old son, Dylan, was born. Also, she has wisely doing much of the labor himself, been seated near an exit and, of course, daddy Michael mayhap a little too vigorously, LeeLeeThaw Douglas, will be sitting right next to her so he can because he gave himself a hernia. swoop her up and carry her out in his loving arms. He will have to have it surgically Who wrote this screenplay? repaired in a couple of weeks and the doctors are saying ● it will take him some weeks to recover, which is a royal Renée Zellweger is the movie hottie of the moment pain — ha, ha — because he really loves to ski. Mayhap with awards piling up right and left. So now, one hears, he can recuperate at Highgrove with Camilla Parker she is in talks to play Marilyn Monroe in a movie about Bowles at his side, where he fancies her. Bruno Bernard, one of the photographers who ● discovered MM when she was still shy little Norma The Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Jean Baker. The producers, including Bernard’s Center will present their Awards for Excellence this daughter Susan, met with Zellweger in Los Angeles year to three outstanding New Yorkers: Ralph Lauren and are particularly keen on her after her performance for Excellence in Corporate Leadership; Evelyn Hall, in “Chicago.” But all agree that the costume designer, in the Annenberg heiress, for Excellence in Philanthropy, order to imitate MM’s famous curves, will have to add and Dr. Murray F. Brennan, chairman of Memorial padding to her wardrobe — again — which Renée Sloan-Kettering’s Department of Surgery, for confesses she already did in “Chicago.” Oh, and surely Excellence in Medicine. They will be presented with they haven’t forgotten that the sex symbol didn’t always engraved silver trays from Asprey at a black-tie dinner wear clothes, particularly when she was just a budding dance in the Grand Ballroom of the Plaza. The night’s starlet starting out. Renée swears she will never take it honorary chairmen are Constance Casey and Harold all off for the cameras, but are we ready for an unpadded Varmus; the co-chairmen are Karen May and Patsy naked Renée anyway? Warner, and the vice chairs include Laurence ● Rockefeller, Pat and Bill Buckley, Nan Kempner, That quintessence of charm, HRH Princess Marina Muffie Potter Aston and Dr. Sherrell Aston, Linda and of Greece, has been visiting New York from her Paris James Robinson 3rd, Betty and Virgil Sherrill, Karen residence for the opening of an exhibition of her EElizaliza BolenBolen and Richard LeFrak, Nicole and Derek Limbocher and beautiful watercolor portraits at the Earl McGrath dozens of others just like them. 5 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 12, 2003 ™ At both stores, the retailer will The shirts from the Virginia H&M operates 51 stores in the Town Center in Dulles, while the while Dulles, in Center Town 6,000-square-foot Rhode Island unit will be in Providence Place in Providence. present the first 100 people to take off their shirts a free H&M T- shirt as well as 20 percent off the purchase of any single item on opening day. customers will be laundered and donated to Reston Interfaith Shelter, which offers temporary residence to approximately 500 individuals and families each year and teaches self-sufficiency skills. In Providence, the shirts will be donated to Clothing Col- laborative, a program of Dorcas Place Adult and Family Learn- ing Center which seeks to assist low-income adults in realizing their full potential through literacy, employment, advocacy, and community involvement. U.S., mainly in the Northeast. www.merchandisemart.com Cheap and chic fash- H&M, which plans three to Meanwhile, Inditex, which Meanwhile, this H&M Friday, The 17,222-square-foot unit H&M, which plans three to five stores five to three plans which H&M, fresh generate will year, next Italy in player major a Benetton, for competition market. clothing moderate Italy’s in five stores in Italy next year, will generate fresh competition for Benetton, a major player in Italy’s moderate clothing market. owns Zara, has three stores in Italy and plans about six more this year. will open its first stores in Virginia and Rhode Island. The 17,000-square-foot Virginia unit will be located at the Dulles ion retailer Hennes & Mauritz AB will open its first Italian store in Milan this September. that strip shopping will be on Corso Vittorio Emanu- major a ele, is already home to a few Benet- tons and a Zara flagship that been ne- “We’ve opened last year. gotiating leases for quite some time,” said H&M chief financial officer Leif Persson. “It’s a good time to go there.” H&M Plans First Italian Opening Italian First Plans H&M MILAN — Find it all in Chicago! STYLEMAX The Merchandise Mart rch 22–25, 2003 resources — all in one convenient location. or call ServicesMart Travel at 800/528-8700. visit our site Web or call 800/677-6278. Ma More than 4,000 top of apparel the and nation’s accessory For discounted hotel and airline rates, log on to site our Web Leading specialty stores everywhere are choosing STYLEMAX! For more information or to register for STYLEMAX, The analyst suggested that As for Henkel’s 6.86 percent But it is unthinkable, he stat- market analyst That in Frankfurt. is, he added, “if P&G really wants Wella. I’m not clearly convinced is that they Wella do.” In his view, probably P&G’s second choice Beiers- after Beiersdorf. However, dorf ’s complicated share structure has so far nixed any takeover deal. Munich-based financial services conglomerate Alli- anz was shopping around its 43.6 percent Beiersdorf stake, but German coffee company Tchibo’s 30 percent “blocking minority” presented a seemingly unsur- mountable obstacle. P&G’s moves with Wella could be an attempt to jolt Allianz into action, with the message: “Hey, this is your last chance to sell,” he said. stake, he said that in Henkel’s talks with Wella’s majority share- holders, Henkel may have discovered that the family was less op- posed to sell than previously. “It may have seemed to make sense to hold a stake as a springboard to a future offer, or knowing that a bid was coming — a way of making a nice capital gain.” ed, that Henkel could outbid P&G should a bidding war ensue. THE ULTIMATE FASHION RESOURCE — FASHION CHICAGO THE ULTIMATE Ströher, Ebert, Ströher, Sander and “There’s a big likelihood that “There’s a chance they can During the first nine months “The buzz is that a deal is defi- founder Franz Ströher hold about 78 percent of the company. In the past, they have been unin- terested in a sale, but sources say their outlook has changed in recent weeks. The Ströher descendants fall into four family groups — Pohl — and observers now sug- gest that it is only the Ströhers, who control 25 percent of the stake, who are resisting a sale. P&G will make an offer in the next days,” a German analyst told WWD. “There seems to be a will- ingness to sell, and it’s just a He said Wella question of money.” would probably carry a $6.6 billion price tag, more than a 50 percent he premium over cur- Wella’s sell,” to rent market value of $4.2 billion. family whole the get continued. “And should the Ströher group hold out with their 25 percent, P&G would still have a majority.” sales rose 6.3 per- of 2002, Wella’s cent to $2.66 billion, about 20 percent attributable to cosmetics and fragrances. Final figures for the year are expected April 8. nitely on the way,” said another Henkel’s addition to

The descendants of Wella’s A Henkel spokeswoman would The surprise disclosure late On Tuesday, a leading German On Tuesday, not add to the official statement regarding the Wella stake, which simply described it as “an interesting investment in light of current stock market conditions.” Monday that Henkel had acquired 6.86 percent of — Wella 4.99 percent of ordinary shares and 10.38 percent of preferred shares — added an unexpected twist. It is not known when Henkel, which reportedly made an informal $5.85 billion bid for last Wella October, acquired the shares. All dollar figures are calculated from the euro at the current exchange rate of about $1.10 per euro. financial daily quoted a manager involved in the negotiations as saying: [P&G] “A offer is just a matter of days [away].” The paper further stated that most of the family controlling Wella is “now ready to sell.” By Melissa Drier Melissa By BERLIN — Group for Wella the bidding battle has heated the simmering specu- lation about a possible Procter & Gamble takeover of the hair care giant to the boiling point. Wella Sale Possibilities Percolating Possibilities Sale Wella 6 Paris Collections 2003 12,

MARCH Good Sports and Glamour Toujours ,

Sonia Rykiel: Sexy knits, voluminous purple or turquoise fur coats, rhinestones and her inimitable stripes — Sonia Rykiel’s trademarks were worked to fine effect in her Adam Jones Cacharel feisty fall effort. The designer also cashed in on the trends: leggings worn with baggy

WEDNESDAY sweaters slung from the shoulder, racy lingerie-inspired lace dresses, flirtatious miniskirts and blousons. Rykiel shaped knit dresses in skinny silhouettes, and added a touch of Eighties glamour with silver or gold studs, while a sequined face or cat WWD, added a playfully graphic touch to black sweaters. This Left Bank designer still packs

plenty of punch. Y- 3: Yohji Yamamoto clearly has his heart in Y-3, his collaboration with Adidas. This ▲ Sonia is only the collection’s second season, but the German athletic powerhouse hopes Rykiel to expand it into a $300 million business, and Y-3 already has a crystal-clear identity. That imprint involves updated sports clothes with the distinctive proportions that are Yamamoto’s trademark. For fall, the clothes were deceptively simple at first glance. Models raced around a snow-driven set in tracksuits that had been altered a bit here and pulled a bit there. Jogging pants, for example, were cut as jodhpurs or featured stripes snaking around the leg, while Adidas’ three trademark stripes were positioned as sergeant stripes on a jacket sleeve. Yamamoto also played on the tracksuit theme by turning one into a jumpsuit. He stuck largely to a palette of blue and black, with bursts of color in the form of a big gold parka and a long, green print dress. The ultimate in street chic.

Cacharel: At Cacharel, Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro have proven themselves always ready to take on a new trend and make it cute. The Sixties influence has been huge on the runways in all four fashion cities, so it’s no wonder that the husband-and-wife duo got to swinging, sending out plenty of hyper-perky fare in pink, purple, orange and brown. A long striped T-shirt topped a purple chiffon mini, a tutti-frutti tweed coat came out paired with a crazy-daisy wool skirt bound in patent leather, and they also showed a pink paisley tent dress and pieces in graphic heart prints with a old-school bohemian bent. Some might find the collection too saccharine, but for a young customer, there are plenty of nostalgic looks here to bring to mind those days when granny took a trip. Y-3 Martine AF Sitbon Vandevorst Martine Sitbon: Mixing the sportif with the ladylike, Martine Sitbon created a sharp fall collection. The designer has always been a favorite of downtown girls, espousing an aesthetic that juxtaposes the tough and the sweet. In that vein, Sitbon started with knits featuring geometric stripes and then moved to a yellow-and-black plaid story, adding tulle to some miniskirts or dresses, while others shone with glitter. A parachute coat featured sequins, while sweaters and jackets came with detachable zip-off sleeves. For evening, her downtown girls waxed romantic with a parade of graphic gray and silver chiffon dresses.

Adam Jones: Adam Jones, a designer on the rise, has a deft touch with knitwear. He can take it and transform it into just about anything, including the fantastic knit sable, mink and fox coats he featured for fall. The show was staged as a happening, with models hanging out on a set resembling a downtown squat, reclining on a stack of mattresses or cavorting around a foosball table to the sounds of Eighties tunes. Although the styling was from that decade, Jones’ clothes had something more timeless about them — glamour. His silver fox jacket with knitted jacquard patchwork was wonderfully inventive, while his perforated leather pieces and tight knit dresses with lace interwoven with organza tulle were simply sophisticated and sexy.

AF Vandevorst: “We’ve been able to present a more complete image of the AF Vandevorst woman, how she acts and where she lives, in one film than in five years of traditional fashion shows,” explained Filip Arickx, who designs this Antwerp, Belgium-based collection with his wife, An Vandevorst. The movie in question was a Paco romantic clip directed by fellow Belgian Mike Sleeckx. In it, models, arrayed in Andrew Paco pleated skirts, trousers with suspenders, fake furs and trenchcoats with brass rivets, Gn Rabanne rode horseback across the windswept Belgian plains or lingered wistfully within the walls of a strange medieval castle. After the film, the clothes looked great in the showroom, too. They juxtaposed femininity and chic with a more contemporary edge, as in blue polkadot dresses or skirts decorated with brass rivets and a leather bustier covered with utility pockets. A strong effort.

Andrew Gn: He said he was inspired by romanticism through the ages, from the Renaissance to the Eighties, and that left Andrew Gn with plenty of ground to cover. But since he has such a firm idea of who his customer is — sophisticated, luxurious and chic — the designer pulled it off with an opulent fall collection of richly embroidered coats, silk camisole tops and miniskirts with braided trim. Gn has a knack for lavish embroidery — as in the Art-Deco motif featured on his Victorian- collared jackets, some topped off with fur, and his paisley velour coat with ribbons. Feminine frills, of course, are a top trend this season, and Gn also delivered those in the form of georgette blouses with lace-trimmed cuffs and fringed, bias-cut tiered skirts. Knowing your customer and giving her what she wants pays off.

Paco Rabanne: The house of Paco Rabanne is still futuristic. But artistic director Rosemary Rodriguez has enough Space Age sense to translate that futurism into the current fashion moment. Sure, there were plenty of Rabanne’s trademark, geometric-patterned plastic and metallic chain-link dresses in Pop Art colors such as orange and silver. But Rodriguez also managed to refresh the house’s fashion vocabulary by using metal links in a leather blouson or transforming metal into slinky metal-mesh knits. She displayed inventiveness, too, in the way she embellished the sleeves of a black chiffon dress with metallic elements or wove pearls into a dress of jeweled armor.

AITRE M DOMINIQUE ND A IANNONI G ANNI GIOV FEUGERE, STEPHANE Y B 7 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 12, 2003 PHOTOS . , took Romeo Gigli for three years, bid Marithe and François Girbaud Issey Miyake Leonard looked East for inspiration, belle Marithe and Girbaud François Isabelle Marant Isa Marant , of course, also marches to her own Ricci Leonard , who is known for her bohemian and blended sportswear pieces with origami- Romeo Gigli Romeo Balmain Meanwhile, Olivier and Michele Chatenet, the husband- And finally, Atsuro Tayama Atsuro Isabelle Marant Other designers always do their own things. That’s the Vivienne Westwood designing Naoki Takizawa, playing with coats and skirts that featured asymmetric hemlines and mixing kimonos and wrapped coats in metallic brocade that ranged in shades from copper to gold. inspired, cape-back tops and dresses. He also played with proportions in oversized patchwork tops paired with tight trousers. wife team who have designed ethnic bent, took a different route this season, opting coats and oversized instead for rockers in black tuxedo sweaters tied at the waist with ribbon straps. Tight leather motorcycle jackets and big chunky knits rounded out the collection. inspiration from interior decoration, with faded flower wallpaper prints or blue and white stripes of an 18th- century English divan. His pleated and draped dresses were inspired by curtains, while long redingotes had a dandy feel. The effect was playful, yet poetic. goodbye to the aging house with a collection that took the sporty disco route, including silver sequined dresses paired with chiffon capes. Miniskirts and short tunic dresses were detailed with a blown-up flower print in pink and purple. Although the collection was fine, it didn’t pave new fashion Although the collection was fine, it didn’t ground; many of the cutaway dresses brought to mind territory already charted by Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga. case with the denim divas Featuring a panoply of distressed and washed fabrics, the a panoply of distressed Featuring duo concocted streetwise sportswear that ranged from baggy jeans and overalls to oversized jackets and parkas. an Ergonomic silhouettes featured twisted seams, while Inuit influence turned up in the patterns of embroidered leather jackets. This time that meant oversized, deconstructed drummer. dresses that tied at the shoulder or the waist in gathers of fabric. A leather coat had elongated ribbing, while a sheepskin jacket sported oversized square shoulders. Her knits were deconstructed, with sleeves cut away from the by the hosiery was transfixed Everyone, however, body. which featured argyles and Wolford, does for Westwood Union Jacks. Atsuro Tayama Atsuro Issey Miyake Guy Laroche Nina Vivienne Westwood used the City of Light as the But instead of giving the brand . , the house has been searching for an Façonnable is another brand trying to notch up its fashion , continued to sex up the house, with racy, this season Nina Ricci From the utterly circumspect to the over-the-top, the utterly circumspect From Balmain Designer Laurent Mercier showed his first collection Over at Meanwhile, Laetitia Hecht, in her third collection for Plein Sud For its part, its part, For Façonnable identity. Under the guidance of artistic director James identity. strides forward have been made, with an emphasis Aguiar, on clean, graphic silhouettes. The fall collection, in a palette of black and cream, featured embroidered jersey minidresses and short, piped jackets paired with pencil pants. Meanwhile, floating chiffon tops worn with tight wool trousers with zigzag piping were in an Eighties mood. asymmetric chiffon evening dresses and embroidered corsets. Hecht was best when she kept it simple, as with her tailored dandy suits or shirts and jackets with tuxedo details. But when she went Goth in metal bustier tops, the collection lost its focus. for more verve,classic day he’s decided to quiet it down with clothes, such as twin sets, wide trousers and quietly purple or evening, he featured sophisticated coats. For black satin blouses with bell sleeves or crisscrossing straps in back. The clothes were wearable, but lacked excitement. The chains that appeared as epaulettes on a trench or hung like fetishistic ornaments from the models’ necks may have been intended to give the clothes more edge, but it will take something more substantial to give life to the house. profile, since owner and designer Faycal Amor staged his profile, since owner and designer Faycal first fashion show open to the press this season. It was a but it proved the depth of the brand’s wares, mini affair, from furry blousons to slinky jersey dresses with zippers and chiffon cocktail numbers with crystal appliquès. Guy Laroche launching pad for its new women’s designer collection, launching pad for its new women’s Platine, which was featured in a small runway Designer presentation at the Plaza Athenee’s hotel bar. fashion punches, but pull any outrageous Flotat didn’t Karl easy he kept things clean and sophisticated with a mix of the day and evening pieces. The first designer effort from Nice-based brand, which is owned by Nordstrom, Plantine built on a simple vocabulary of pieces such as a cream with trench with subtle stitching details and a leather skirt a slightly asymmetric hem. Meanwhile, strong outerwear, trademarks, rounded out the effort. one of Façonnable’s PARIS — PARIS houses showed collections with a variety of looks, moods down and themes during fashion week here, which wound on Tuesday. Adventures in Fashion in Adventures on of Viktor & of Viktor , the iktor Horsting Marcio Madeira , tickled the V , Linda Evangelista Hedi Slimane with , head of judicial — and her husband, tore up the dance Vladimir Spivakov arrived with his frequent Viktor Horsting Viktor , deputy mayor and LVMH Don Ashby , , who was stuck in bed ill. . They could not immediately Bernard Arnault : Fur protesters weren’t the : Fur protesters : You might call it the Starck- : You have a major exhibit at the ’s intention of opposing war in ’s . Fashion people don’t always travel

Milla Jovovich An accomplished concert pianist, Christophe Girard Karl Lagerfeld . Hedi Slimane Rolf Snoeren Françoise Benhamou

Bernadette Chirac Olivier Claisse Milla Jovovich SHUTTERED-BUGS during Paris Fashion Week. only disruption were taken into custody Several photographers Chanel show on Monday for by police at the intellectual property laws in allegedly violating France. at the French affairs and intellectual property an “illicit traffic” Fashion Federation, described the of photographs for profit that upset members. She federation and some of its largest but it is declined to identify the photographers, believed they include and in pairs. That was the lesson Monday night when überhip Paris store Colette threw a bash to celebrate the launch of its new compilation CD. Although FLYING SOLO: FLYING strategist of course, who was unwinding after a busy fashion week. MARK OF STARCK Pompidou museum here, he was asked to give edition of the Left-leaning tabloid, Tuesday’s The result? Well, Liberation, a graphic makeover. stark. The cover featured no rather it’s photograph, only text screaming “Chirac: No” on a red background, referring to French president Jacques Chirac Iraq. Starck also turned his hand to picture- editing and he went for the closeup — real close up — showing only the eyes of Chirac and President Bush ification of Paris. Not only does design guru Philippe Starck be reached for comment. Meanwhile, Rolf made a rare appearance without his design partner, floor as music blared until the wee hours at the La Cigale music hall near Pigalle. And Colette hasn’t finished blowing off steam yet. The store plans to host a book-signing party for Pierre Goes On, I Remain,” new tome, “Time Bergé’s on Thursday evening. TOWER: Hélène Mercier Arnault IVORY Moët Hennessy Louis statuesque wife of LVMH chairman Vuitton sidekick night at the Chatelet Theatre ivories on Tuesday in Paris, accompanied by

the violin First Arnault entertained the likes of France’s Lady Fashion Scoops 8 Paris Collections 2003 12, MARCH , Stores Say Sophistication Rules

PARIS — Three cheers for elegance. A look by Rochas Jean Retailers praised Paris Fashion Week for a return to beauty and sophistication Alexander by Olivier Paul over blatant sex. What’s more, they said the collections were loaded with enough McQueen Theyskens Gaultier WEDNESDAY news to stimulate purchases in uncertain times. Here’s what they had to say:

Julie Gilhart, vice president of fashion merchandise, Barneys New York: “Forget WWD, all the trendy stuff right now. It’s really a couture feeling and a real feeling of beauty that’s important, because customers want something substantial and lasting right now. [Standouts] were [Alber Elbaz for] Lanvin and Dries Van Noten, who delivered their best shows ever, and Rochas, where Olivier [Theyskens] made such a strong introduction.”

Eliana Tranchesi, owner, Daslu, São Paulo: “The most important message from Paris was elegance. Cashmere, crocodile, satin, silk and the finest leathers were among the noble fabrics of the season, while the key pieces were coats and mini- tailoring à la Chanel. It’s a ‘new’ classic way of dressing.”

Joan Kaner, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “I’ll take anything from Chanel. I thought it was perfection. It was Karl [Lagerfeld] doing his best. It wasn’t about reinventing the wheel, but about making beautiful, wearable clothes for the mother, the daughter and even the grandmother.”

Maria Louis Poumaillou, owner, Maria Lusia, Paris: “Paris has been about urban elegance. The sexy lingerie look is totally out. Sexy is still there, but it’s more feminine, more covered. Girly is out. There’s been a shift toward a new style, Dries Van Junya which is more constructed with volumes. Parkas and blousons, paired with leg- Noten’s gings — in anything: leather, wool, you name it —were a move towards more Noten’s Watanabe urban elegance. The jacket is out, too.” dramatic coat. Jaqui Lividini, senior vice president of fashion merchandising, communication, Saks Fifth Avenue: “The most interesting new thing was the mix of performance and activewear details with ready-to-wear pieces. We saw it at Gaultier, Chloé, Chanel and Dior. We didn’t only see it on the runway, we saw it in the audience. We call it the real sportswear. It’s a new way of wearing a suit: With a hoodie under it.”

Sarah Easley and Beth Buccini, owners of Kirna Zabête, New York: “The best collections in Paris have had a punch of freshness to them in color and excitement. We’ve seen a lot of somber clothes and that don’t translate very well. The most inventive collections have been the strongest, such as Gaultier and Chloé. The designers who decided to play it safe missed the boat.”

Joan Burstein, owner of Browns, London: “Paris offered a lot of choices. It’s been a good season. For my clients, Junya Watanabe and Dries Van Noten are excellent, and I liked Stella McCartney. It was more grown-up.”

Kouhei Yanagisawa, director and executive officer, Hankyu Department Stores, Japan: “All the Paris collections were about elegance. We very much liked Junya Watanabe’s mix of avant-garde and elegance. It was very creative.” A Chanel suit. Louis Vuitton’s Robert Burke, senior vice president of fashion direction, Bergdorf Goodman: miniskirt. “Paris has shown the ultimate in sophistication and refinement. In these difficult times, there has been an emphasis on beauty, femininity and details in tailoring. It’s been an enormously creative season. Everything we’ve seen has had a reason for being, a purpose.”

Keiichiro Umene, general manager, Mitsukoshi Department Stores, Tokyo: “The strong woman has been the biggest trend, with new sophistication and adult silhouettes the biggest story.”

Sue Patneaude, vice president of designer apparel, Nordstrom: “There have been two camps, either a fitted top paired with a full skirt, as in Alexander McQueen or John Galliano, or full tops with more fitted silhouettes on bottom. The key is what happens on top, from cape backs to flare backs to honey-bee backs at Rochas, the baby doll at Jean Paul Gaultier, the kimono shoulders at McQueen and Stella McCartney’s sculpted pink jacket.”

Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner, Jeffrey, New York and Atlanta: “Women always love pret- ty clothes in any time, and a lot of the collections in Paris were about modern refinement. Couldn’t you just lay down and die when you [saw] something as refined as Rochas? That collection and [Olivier Theyskens’] talent are worth making a trip to Paris for.”

Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s: “The biggest takeaway from Paris is this belief in snappy, young sophisticated clothes based on a new proportion: the shorter length. In a tough economy, I think it’s going to make women want to buy new clothes.”

Barbara Atkin, fashion director, Holt Renfrew: “The coat is the story. It’s a voluminous coat you cinch around the waist, and then you pull up the collar. It’s a real item.”

Majed Al-Sabah, owner, Villa Moda, Kuwait: “Paris was very much about retro, but interpreted in modern, sophisticated ways, like Olivier Theyskens did at Rochas. Also, I thought McQueen was to-die-for with its couture details, and Viktor & Rolf was killer chic, very modern. Those were the three best collections. And the eveningwear at Yves Saint Laurent was the cherry on the cake.”

Alla Verber, vice president, Mercury Group, Moscow: “It was more exciting for me in Paris than in Milan. We like to see something that makes women glamorous and sexy. Alexander McQueen, Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent were wonderful.” — Miles Socha and Robert Murphy 9 WWD, Bon Jourdan Top Tailoring and Athletic Appeal WEDNESDAY Patrick Cox doesn’t PARIS — The fashion news in the City of Light for fall

Undercover Lutz ,

like to waste time. included elegant tailoring, the juxtaposition of sports MARCH Just named creative elements with refined details and items such as director of France’s blousons and leggings. luxury footwear and Véronique Leroy showed a strong collection this accessories brand season that hit all of the key trends, with bold leather 12, Charles Jourdan in

pants, tight little knits, oversized blousons and skinny 2003 January, he has lace leggings. Exploring the world of sport, she did already brought parkas with droopy shoulders, while in a more feminine together a capsule vein, there were seductive lace camisole dresses. collection of 40 Yvan Mispelaere, formerly the designer at the house pieces that he plans of Louis Féraud, made his debut effort mixing the to unveil in London on worlds of sport with a more ladylike realm. White April 23, coinciding jodhpurs were paired with parkas and short hooded with an exhibit at the sweatshirts, while Renaissance ruffles decorated sporty Victoria & Albert blousons and dresses with cutout sleeves. The Museum dedicated to collection, in vivid shades such as green and pink, photographer Guy showed plenty of imagination. Bourdin, who created Meanwhile, in his second collection for Féraud, Jean Jourdan’s most Paul Knott found himself in the sticky position of trying Patrick Cox and memorable ads. “It to define an image for the dusty brand best known for a new shoe. seemed wrong to its suit business. It is not an easy job. Knott tried just wait,” explained Cox about everything, from bright geometric-print pants to in an exclusive preview of his work Tuesday. “The Bourdin exhibit elaborate embroidered leggings and asymmetrical seemed an opportunity too good to pass up.” dresses wrapped around the body with chains. Most of Tom Van Jean Paul His first full-blown collection for Jourdan will not arrive until these clothes were fine, varying in mood from rocker Lingen Knott spring 2004, but Cox already has a firm grasp of where he wants chick to sophisticate, but they didn’t chart a clear to take the brand. “The company has always stood for boldness, identity for the house. architecture and geometry,” he said, fingering the heel of one of Yet in his signature collection, Jean Paul Knott hit his new shoes, a black patent stiletto detailed with crystal balls. the right notes, moving away from the tough rock Cox explained that he went Mod with his first designs, using silver, aesthetic that has marked his recent collections to a white and black with metallics. chicer look based on an elongated silhouette and “It’s somewhere between the Courrèges of the Sixties and perfectly tailored suits. His herringbone tweed Mugler and Montana in the Eighties,” he said. “I tried to respect pantsuits and big brown corduroy coats featured high the history of the house without slavishly going into the Jourdan waists and big square shoulders — a noteworthy archive for everything.” contribution to the feminine-masculine dialogue. The Ten bags will be shown along with the 30 pairs of shoes. They elegant black shirtdresses played perfectly against his will mirror the footwear0, with clear plastic handles, balls and signature wrap dresses, which were held in place by other geometric details. leather belts or metal pins. German Lutz Huelle — known simply as Lutz —took a step in the right direction, too, with a playful collection. His theme was mutation, and he showed pieces such as a trenchcoat and slipdress that became a short jumpsuit with the undoing of a zipper. Zippers also fig- ured as decoration on his pleated dresses and skirts, while his big striped sweaters twisted around the body Bag Watch in an alluring line. Another German who shows in Paris, Dirk Bag addicts, rejoice Schonberger, is continuing to refine things. The Dirk Van — there are a few new Christian designer, who’s known for his men’s wear, gave tailored things to add to your Louboutin elements a soft, feminine touch, with dresses cut with Saene must-have list for fall. capes in the back and well-proportioned trenchcoats. Christian Louboutin, Pleated skirts, an oversized smoking jacket and capes maker of some of the rounded out the promising effort. world’s sexiest stilettos, Bernhard Willhelm, who is also German, took a more is expanding his collec- whimsical approach, planting childish cartoon prints tion to include handbags. on sweatshirts and fleece pants. His fresh looks There are 14 new styles included harlequin sweaters, jersey cutout tops with in all, and Louboutin lace inserts and a flower-print coat and dress gathered traces his inspiration to at the sleeves. everything from Jun Takashi, the Japanese behind the Undercover Bollywood to women’s brand, was lighthearted, too, with his collection bodies and even a detail inspired by paper dolls. A pair of girls appeared in of one of Jackie O’s lace-motif dresses, and one started to attach cutout dresses. Then there’s clothes to the other with Velcro tabs. The show model-turned-designer Christian Dior continued with myriad cutouts of ladylike clothes and Alex Wek’s pieces. While accessories, including necklaces, brooches and bags, her collection consists applied to jogging pants, sweatshirts and dresses, to mostly of leather and blend the bourgeois with streetwear. suede items, it also in- Dirk Van Saene, an Antwerp designer, returned to cludes crocodile clutches the runway after a several-season hiatus with such and totes. Meanwhile, looks as an orange knit cape with long fringe, tweed Dice Kayek Christian Dior has also coats with knit collars and pockets and a pleated white launched two new bags shirtdress in chiffon and fleece. for fall. The first, called Alexandre Matthieu, the brand done by Alexandre ACHARD Hardcore, a silk jersey Morgado and Matthieu Bureau, also returned to the shoulder bag, was intro- catwalks after a couple of seasons away. The designers duced for pre-fall. The worked a diamond theme, printing the stones on DELPHINE ND other, Latest Blonde, is blousons or making the pattern more abstract in A its leather counterpart, leather pieces with stitching details. AITRE, turned up on the Dior Tom Van Lingen, who designs knitwear for Sonia M runway last week. Rykiel, delivered a signature collection of short knit skirts with graphic patterns. Some sweaters billowed open at the sleeves, while others had asymmetrical DOMINIQUE details. He also worked an Eighties theme in his silver

minis and strong-shouldered jackets. Gaspard IANNONI, Yurkievich, too, explored the Eighties in cute black G dresses with sequined suspenders and colorful ANNI

sweatshirts in geometric blocks of green and pink. GIOV His strongest pieces, however, were the fur and lace dresses with sequins on the bust. Meanwhile, Dice Kayek and Collette FEUGERE, Dinnigan created further feminine looks. Turkish

designer Ece Ege did pleated chiffon frocks with STEPHANE

Colette Y bows for Dice Kayek, and Dinnigan, who is from Australia, B Christian Dior stuck to her glamorous sequined chiffon dresses. Feraud Dinnegan PHOTOS 10 In the Mainstream 2003 A duster 12, sweater coat with embroidery Marisa Christina: Sweater or Not MARCH

, and flat- front pants. By Kristin Larson NEW YORK — Marisa Christina is leaving behind the conversational, schoolteacher sweaters — think warm and fuzzy images of

WEDNESDAY cats, dogs and apples — and is going for a more sophisticated look come fall. “Even our Christmas sweaters will be WWD, more subdued,” said Kristine Wortman-Zajac, vice president of merchandising and design at Marisa Christina, the better-priced company known for extreme novelty sweaters, during an interview at the firm’s showroom at 1410 Broadway here. “The customer is just getting younger in attitude. Before, we used to joke and say we were dressing the ‘blue- haired ladies.’ This is the first time the peo- Kristine Wortman-Zajac and Mike Dees ple who work here actually want to wear the product and that’s really encouraging.” ception that our customer was more ma- Glimpses of the modernized and up- ture than she really was. It was a hard les- dated Marisa Christina hit stores this son to learn and a fun lesson, but she want- spring, while the full makeover will ed to evolve and now we’re trying to invig- launch for fall. New features of the orate the company a little bit. knitwear-driven line, which origi- “Being in business today means you have nated in 1970 and has projected re- Marisa Christina’s new novelty: more to take ownership all the way to the actual tail sales of $60 million to $65 mil- sophisticated, less conversational. consumer — merchandising so that it’s mean- lion this year, a 12 percent increase ingful. We’re pushing for a stronger real estate from last year, include more solid “We’re giving her an edgier at- presence and for the first time, we have start- bottoms, jean jackets with fur trim, titude, but still addressing the missy ed to build in a sales promotional vehicle.” duster sweater coats with embroidery, fit. After all, the average size in America Toni Browning, chief executive officer velvet flat-front pants with tuxedo details is a 12 and 14,” she said. “Customers are just of Proffitt’s, a division of Saks Inc., said the and boiled wool jackets with lace trims. more aware. People are living longer and new direction of the line looks “terrific.” While novelty still has a presence, it will even my mom, who’s 75, is a lot more modern “As the business has changed, Marisa have a cleaner sense and be less obvious, than her predecessors.” Christina has adjusted to more of what the said Wortman-Zajac. Before, “high-level” Company president Mike Dees called customer is looking for, which is not as much novelty sweaters comprised about 75 per- the refocus an evolution. embellishment — something that has an atti- cent of the line; now, it’s down to 25 percent, “When ‘Murphy Brown’ was on, Murphy tude and is more sportswear inspired,” said Wortman-Zajac said. Today’s novelty looks wore a Marisa Christina sweater and I Browning, noting that the retailer carries might include sweaters with hand appliqués, thought, ‘She can’t wear that, she’s too the line in all of its 26 doors. “We have a very ribbon embroidery, sequins and little scenes young and too hip,’” Dees said. “But what traditional base with the line but we also do with a house, bridge and Christmas tree. we realized lately was that we had a per- well with the new product.” One Girl With Pull WWD By Holly Haber now available online DALLAS — Knitwear is the focus at One Girl Who, a new sweater line hitting stores this fall. The collection will feature some .com 150 styles and 400 pieces, in solids, stripes, embroideries, ap- pliqués and prints. Fine and heavy A multicolor striped tank top and gauges, basics to novelties, man- matching zip cardigan. made fibers, silk and cashmere will also be included. Olive and pink hangtags bear upbeat definitions of the target shopper, such as “One Girl Who knows where she is, knows where she is going.” “I want to take over the sweater world,” said co-owner Bruce Gifford. “The sweater business in the U.S. is huge.” Gifford put total annual apparel sales in the U.S. at $240 billion, with For just pennies a day... sweaters holding a 10 percent market share, although the NPD Group reported Monday that the total amount spent on apparel last year decreased 1.7 percent to $163 billion. KARLISCH The tactic for Gifford and his business partner, Dan Jaffe, is to offer a

Access WWD.com STEPHEN branded sweater collection that interprets designer trends at better Y A newer, faster way to receive WWD the newspaper prices and is sold only to specialty retailers. First-month bookings in B

October were $600,000, and Gifford projects $4 million to $7 million in WHO

first-year revenue. IRL “The big lines like Cyrus, August Silk and Joseph A. are in department G stores, and as soon as you sell department stores, it becomes very difficult ONE to sell specialty stores for many reasons, especially pricing,” Gifford said. “Macy’s wants $29.99 promotions, and the specialty stores want quality AQUINO;

and customer service, so it’s hard to do that with one label.” JOHN Y

Gifford, who has 20 years experience in the sweater business, most re- B cently as the owner of the defunct Molto Fino, oversees finance, produc-

tion and distribution. Design, merchandising and sales are managed by PHOTOS Jaffe, a principal in the former Apparel Industries, who retired temporarily after consulting with Joseph A. DEES The fall collection is divided into three groups, with items wholesaling AND from $39 to $90. A selection of two-ply cashmere sweaters from $75 to $90 offers solids, stripes and intarsias, including a heather beige moon- MAN-ZAJAC

and-star pattern with a matching scarf. Another group is comprised of T R Log on to WWD.com now to subscribe. .com A lightweight knits, like a poppy-embroidered multicolor silk and nylon tank W

WWD , for $49, while a third assortment emphasizes heavier-weight knit blends, such as a wool and acrylic double-zip jacket for $59. CHRISTINA 11 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 12, 2003 — Kristin Larson Kristin — ge from the Tommy Hilfiger onsert. the Tommy ge from Tommy Hilfiger will feature Tommy a new onsert breaking An ima An An image from the Tommy Hilfiger onsert. Hilfiger from the Tommy An image Mustique Sets the Mood the Sets Mustique Shot in Mustique, the 24-page onsert features “fabulous beach Shot in Mustique, the 24-page The campaign was shot in various beach locations around “What the onsert does is tell the entire story of the campaign,” Photographer Carter Smith shot the spring campaign featur- “[The onsert] really develops the synergy between the clothes, EW YORK EW — YORK For Spring Hilfiger Campaign Hilfiger Spring For N Friday in the April issue of W magazine that speaks the designer’s for his spring collection. inspiration directly to clothes, skin-bearing halters and minis, and military shorts and swim shorts for the guys,” said president Peter of Connolly, mar- Hilfiger USA. keting at Tommy Hilfiger’s favorite Caribbean island, where he has his second home, Connolly said. see two couples in he the said. morning “You arriving at the beach, then it has the story of these couples throughout There’s the a day. storm that comes up in the middle of the day and it finishes with a Here to Eternity’ image.” beautiful sunset and a ‘From ing models Gabriel Liya Aubry, Kedebe, Jason Shaw and Carolina Kurkova. the location vision, and and Tommy’s how Mustique inspired the spring collection,” Connolly said. “It just all looks like it be together.” should OSHA’s spokesman OSHA’s said in a In addition, he noted OSHA’s the fiscal For year 2002, OSHA Any violations and penalties gonomic issues,” said Eric Fru- min, health and safety director at UNITE. “Once [the agency] elimi- nates the standard, Labor has to pull together a much more detailed picture of a higher level of authority.” abuse to use existing statement: “The general duty clause requires employers to keep their workplaces free from any recognized hazard, including ergonomics, and that require- ment exists whether or not an employer uses voluntary guidelines. said We’ve on numerous occa- sions that we will not be enforc- ing guidelines, but we will focus our efforts on those companies faith.” that have not acted in good track record on safety and health citations. OSHA inspectors oversee 26 states while 24 states and two territories operate their own federally approved programs. cited 78,479 safety and health violations in the 26 states and assessed penalties of $73.3 million. The 24 states and two U.S. territories cited 144,075 violations during the same fiscal year and assessed penalties of $75.8 million. for ergonomics falls within the broad category known as the “general duty clause,” which is a clause for citations where no standards exist. In the year, OSHA cited 1,281 violations and assessed penalties of $2.8 million under this clause, which includes a broad range of areas where standards do not exist. As part of its agreement with “This agreement signed with The voluntary alliances have Labor Secretary Elaine Chao “These alliances are OSHA’s Tuesday Tuesday that the announcement was expected. OSHA, AAFA said it will provide members with information and guidance to help protect employees’ particularly health and safety, in reducing exposure to ergonomic hazards and provide training on ergonomic techniques, program structure and applications. IMRA plans to unveil its alliance today at its Loss Prevention, Auditing & Safety Conference in Orlando. asso- OSHA was a signal from the ciation that our industry wants to support safety in the workplace and safety is not achieved by de- veloping a new standard, but rather by companies looking at safety as good business,” said president of AAFA. Burke, Kevin drawn criticism from UNITE, which claims there are many apparel, textile and footwear companies that don’t belong to the associations and will not partici- pate in the ergonomics and training sessions. UNITE argued for new regulations after the Bush administration in late 2001 re- pealed the Clinton administration’s workplace rules designed to protect workers from repeti- tive motion and other stress-related musculoskeletal injuries. said her agency would develop voluntary guidelines and not issue new regulations. weak substitute for an effective enforcement program on er- Apparel and

The New Times York reported OSHA plans to “strengthen” “This is strictly a way to put Meanwhile, the American The Labor Department an- five areas, including follow-up inspections, programmed inspections, public awareness, settlements and federal court enforcement. The initiative will impact companies that have re- ceived OSHA citations with the highest severity of willful violations, multiple serious violations, repeat violations, failure- to-abate notices or a serious or willful violation associated with a fatality. teeth into our enforcement of companies we have already is- sued citations to or provided outreach to and who still continue to flaunt the rules,” said an OSHA spokesman. Apparel & Footwear Association Apparel & Footwear and the International Mass Retail Association have signed separate alliances with the Occupational Safety & Health Administration to work on in- jury prevention. and illness nounced Tuesday nounced that Tuesday it plans to step up enforcement on employers who continue to “defy” worker safety and health regulations. By Kristi Ellis Kristi By WASHINGTON — footwear groups are voluntarily signing alliances with the government in an effort to reduce ergonomic injuries in the workplace at the same time the Department of Labor steps up enforcement of health and safety violations. Industry, Gov’t Team Up on Ergonomics on Up Team Gov’t Industry, 12 2003 12, TALKING MARCH , POINTS Japan’s Luxury Future

By Miles Socha

WEDNESDAY PARIS — Antoine Colonna, luxury analyst at Merrill Lynch in Paris, has been fas- cinated with Japan since he started following the luxury goods sector 10 years ago. After all, the market is vital to the success of any luxury brand and the coun- WWD, try remains a consumer paradise (even if its economy has been depressed for more than a decade.) But the Japanese market for luxury goods is changing rapidly — and not for the better, as Colonna outlines in a comprehensive new report. WWD sat down with him to talk about his findings:

WWD: How important are Japanese ness-recognition and high intent-to-pur- consumers for luxury products? chase figures. They’re known for being Colonna: Japan accounts for 24 percent innovative. They have superior adver- of sales for the key luxury firms we tising power, and they appeal to a good cover, which include Bulgari, Gucci balance of age groups. This is where Group, Hermès, LVMH Moët Hennessy the Japanese market does not defy Louis Vuitton, Richemont, Swatch gravity but accentuates the superiority Group and Tod’s. Europe actually ac- of the leading brands. The European counts for more, 38 percent of sales. and U.S. markets are less mature. But we estimate that Japanese travelers account on average for between 5 WWD: Are the Japanese interested in percent and 20 percent of sales of lux- all fashion brands? ury goods outside of Japan, depending Colonna: No, they’re mostly interested in on the brand, city and product catego- the best brands in each product category. ry. If you split sales by nationality In our view, the true star brands on the rather than country or region, market are Burberry, Cartier, Chanel, Japanese consumers appear to ac- Hermès, Rolex and Louis Vuitton. count for more than a third of total luxury sales. WWD: What about the wannabe stars. Do they have any chance? WWD: What’s the biggest misconcep- Colonna: There are two types of tion about the market? wannabes in Japan: the ones that are al- Colonna: That Japan is an ever-in- ready very strong in their home markets creasing market with superior margins and backed by parent companies with Antoine Colonna for all players. In fact, the Japanese deep pockets like Coach, Fendi, market is by far the most mature mar- Montblanc, Tod’s, etc. — these ones why are they so important to luxury ing products to elite Japanese for about ket for luxury labels in the world. The should do very well in coming years, companies? 100 years. Secondly, steady yen appre- balance of power is already estab- even if they are growing with a much Colonna: The “parasite single” syndrome ciation led to a boost to travel flows. lished in most segments. easier comparison basis compared with has been an important growth driver for There were 2.6 times more overseas star brands — and the ones that are very luxury goods companies in Japan since travelers in 1990 than in 1980, which WWD: Why do people think of Japan as a small in absolute terms and often with a the mid-Nineties. The term refers to supported sales of European-U.S. luxu- limitless market for luxury and fashion? limited financial surface and are look- young men and women who live with ry goods companies in Japan. Between Colonna: People are misled by the good ing at the Japanese market only as an their parents well into adulthood, enjoy- 1970 and 1990, yen appreciation against performance of a handful of brands in additional source of growth. ing a carefree and well-to-do life. The the dollar averaged 5 percent per year. the past five years. Most of these brands number of parasite singles today ex- Finally, disposable income increased are owned by listed companies and WWD: Are high prices why Japanese ceeds one out of 10 Japanese. Parents dramatically at a compound annual they communicate with the media more buy so much fashion when they travel? provide room and board, making what- rate of 4.7 percent in the Seventies and than the average. In reality, the majori- Colonna: Yes and no. Because of gift- ever income these young people have al- 2.6 percent in the Eighties. The bubble ty of the other firms are logically penal- giving practices and the fact that they most entirely disposable. We estimate economy and rising semiannual bonus- ized by the recession and have record- still travel less than other nationalities that these consumers account for as es enabled Japanese consumers to ed lower growth rates in the period. given their income per capita, one much as 30 percent to 40 percent of the spend a high proportion of their in- could argue that they are just trying to most prestigious European brands’ sales comes on traveling and shopping. WWD: How much has the luxury busi- take advantage of price differences in Japan. Remember, most Japanese do ness in Japan contracted? when they travel. Frankly, we expect not own cars in major cities since public WWD: Are some brands guilty of over- Colonna: Contrary to popular percep- other Asians and Americans to take ad- transport is easily available. Addition- expanding in Japan? tion, luxury consumption patterns of vantage of price differences as well ally, it is also important to dress up in Colonna: Definitely, even if this is a the Japanese are subject to the laws of going forward. We see this trend as a the best possible style in Japan. worldwide phenomenon, particularly economics. Since 1996, the Japanese worldwide phenomenon whereby afflu- on the retail front with “white ele- luxury goods market for apparel and ent U.S. citizens who travel a lot, for in- WWD: Is there anything else about the phant” stores. The problem in Japan is accessories has lost approximately a stance, will be more and more tempted nature of Japan that drives luxury sales? running costs can prove quickly higher third of its value. to take advantage of price differentials Colonna: Yes, we believe there’s a deeper than in other regions of the world and on high price points going forward. motivation: hedonism. With the economic corresponding losses as well, even if WWD: What’s the outlook for 2003? downturn and the progressive crumbling rents are proportional to revenues. Colonna: We expect the luxury market WWD: Is it true some Japanese will of traditional values like lifetime employ- Frankly, I would say that virtually all to be flat both in Japan and on a global scrimp on necessities in order to buy ment, jobs with predictable and timed the companies or at least some of their basis: Merrill Lynch economists are more luxury goods? promotions and stable families, many subsidiaries that we follow overex- anticipating for Japan, the U.S. and Colonna: The middle class is increas- young Japanese are no longer willing to panded in Japan in the past decade. Europe gross domestic product (GDP) ingly suffering because of the rising un- make the same sacrifices as their par- Going forward, this is why the leading growth of, respectively, 0 percent, 2.3 employment. It has a strong tendency to ents. They have a new way to see life and ones will continue to increase their percent and 1.2 percent, or 1.6 percent carefully choose products. These con- spend one’s money. Buying luxury goods market share. for all the G7 countries [the U.S., sumers have been reevaluating brands is hedonistic consumption by excellence: Japan, the U.K., Germany, France, with the recession. They look for real the sole purpose of the expense being WWD: Is there any new trend in how Canada and Italy] for 2003. Analysts value, seek out quality items that last, pleasure. Also important is the fact that foreign brands manage their distribu- with sales growth estimates in the mid- have superior understanding of the 71 percent of households have no chil- tion in Japan? single-digit range on a reported basis value items and no longer accept goods dren, which stimulates luxury goods con- Colonna: The Japanese department are in our view too optimistic given the of inferior rank after enjoying the taste sumption, in the near term, anyway. store channel has to reinvent itself, likely significant negative currency im- of luxury. Whereas the traditional otherwise it will always give most of pact on revenues this year. Japanese consumer demanded quality WWD: Where does the huge interest in the retail margin to the directly oper- at any price, today’s customers are luxury goods come from? ated stores of the star brands. WWD: If the overall luxury pie in Japan often more price sensitive than their Colonna: There are economic, cultural- is shrinking, how do you account for Western counterparts, even if they are sociological and demographic argu- WWD: What’s your number-one piece the fantastic performance some com- less willing to compromise quality for ments. Most luxury goods companies of advice for a fashion company want- panies report? price. Among young Japanese, many entered the luxury goods market during to do business in Japan? Colonna: This is because the market is purchase all necessities at 100 yen ing the Seventies and Eighties, two pe- Colonna: No compromise on product still extremely fragmented but at the shops — the equivalent of North riods of tremendous growth and afflu- quality and customer service, other- same time increasingly oligopolistic. American dollar stores. They buy basic ence for Japan. During these two wise beware. Compromising on short- The companies who dominate the mar- necessities there in order to devote the decades, luxury firms also took advan- term retail expansion or product di- ket all show the same characteristics. rest of their income to whatever they tage of three major positive trends. versification is in my view understand- First, they enjoy superior brand aware- really like: electronics devices, restau- First, the Japanese elite have always able. But jeopardizing brand image in rants and, of course, fashion. demonstrated a strong knowledge and today’s environment is the worst thing Editor’s Note: This is the debut of Talking appreciation for fine craftsmanship. to do given the increasing maturity of Points, a regular WWD Q&A feature. WWD: What are “parasite singles,” and For example, Hermès has been supply- the luxury goods market. 13 WWD,

Gas Price Hike Spills Over Into Retail WEDNESDAY Continued from page one Barney. Americans may still be filling up, but less often, and it’s exacting a toll at the local mall. , “The issue is the consumer mentality and that’s very MARCH fragile,” said one senior operations executive at a national retail chain. “Some of the biggest issues, like gas prices, we can’t measure the impact it is having on cus- 12, tomers. But if they are spending more on gas, it’s taking something out of the general retail market.” 2002 It’s tough to draw a direct connection between traffic in the stores and prices at the pumps, yet retailers ac- knowledge gas prices are one of several factors that con- tribute to negative store performances. If gas prices sur- pass $2 a gallon on a national average basis — as they already have in several urban areas — eventually it could be reflected in increased retail prices. Then there are internal issues. Retailers have their own trucks to fuel up and stores to heat and it’s all getting more expensive. For now, they say they’re not offsetting higher costs by raising prices. And according to the senior retail executive, with fuel bills in December and January, “there was not a significant blip. We do a lot of things to hedge our bets on energy. There are gas contracts that protect us.” As far as the potential impact on retail prices, a Wal- Mart spokesman said, “We work every day to protect low prices, and will continue to through these times even with higher gas prices. Our lifeblood is our everyday low price and we will continue with that.” During the first week of March, both the average ticket and cus- Some gas prices top $2 a gallon in Manhattan. tomer count were up, he said, adding that any correlation to rising gas prices would be speculative. lar markets with lower disposable incomes could get hurt said, discounters will continue to lean on their value “People are shopping and we are seeing normal more by fuel prices, compared with higher-end stores. proposition and take a greater chunk of the overall re- shopping patterns at this time,” the spokesman said. But Shearman disagreed. “Discounters are less likely to tail pie as consumers trade down. Meanwhile, he added, Other stores also have yet to see any impact. Cheryl be hurt. Those are mostly the close-to-home trips, where higher-end malls, with a higher percentage of discre- Daskas, co-owner of Tender, a 3,000-square-foot fuel prices aren’t going to have a whole lot of impact; it’s tionary products, will be hurt by increased fuel prices. European designer clothing store in Birmingham, Mich., the long-term trips where it comes to play — some dis- On the plus side, though, Slater described the ascent noted that gas has gone up to $1.98 a gallon for super un- counters, such as Costco, sell gas at cheaper prices.” Wal- of fuel prices as “less of a long-term issue than a tempo- leaded in Birmingham, and $1.76 for regular. However, Mart also sells gas at a small number of its stores. rary manifestation of current events.” Historically, gas her affluent customers haven’t changed their mobile Shari Schwartzman Eberts, retail analyst for J.P. prices have been far more volatile than apparel prices, lifestyles. “They drive big cars and big SUVs, and know it Morgan, differs. In a report, she cited a “strong negative rising at greater rates. According to the U.S. Department is going to cost them money, because you have to drive correlation between same-store sales results and retail of Labor’s Bureau of Labor Statistics, from 1972 to 2002, everywhere here,” she said. “They’re just used to it.” gasoline prices, particularly for the discount stores, the seasonally adjusted average price of all types of gaso- Jim Westcott, general manager of Somerset where gas costs make up a greater portion of the con- line for all urban consumers has soared 308.5 percent. Collection, in Troy, Mich., near Detroit, agreed, saying, sumers’ disposable income.” She expects that if gaso- Over that same period, the seasonally adjusted average “I don’t think it’s had an effect yet. Everybody here line prices hold at current levels, comparisons will con- price of all apparel for the same consumers grew 99 per- drives their own cars. Detroit is a lot like L.A. People tinue to remain under pressure. cent. More recently, as of January 2003, gas prices were would be hesitant to defer that. I doubt carpooling is in- “I think rising gas prices will affect retail sales in 6.8 percent higher than in January 2001, while apparel creasing, which would limit individuals getting around, general, especially as it pertains to long-distance travel prices were 1 percent lower. Jessica Walker, economist at though I would envision people consolidating their to the regional mall,” observed Robert Vassalotti, assis- Moody’s Investor Service, noted that from January to shopping trips. But the upscale nature of our center tant chairperson of the department of fashion merchan- February, premium gasoline prices increased 13.8 per- would tend to minimize any effect of gasoline prices.” dising at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “People cent, the greatest increase since April 2002. From At one of America’s most productive malls, Dadeland driving 50 miles each way to their regional mall or shop- December through January, prices were up 7.8 percent. in Kendall, Fla., south of Miami, Annette Alvarez, mar- ping center will rethink that choice or not go as often. It “Fuel prices have been climbing higher than expect- keting director, sees no correlation between shopper traf- will decrease the frequency that you make that trip. As ed,” she observed. “As consumers reallocate their fic in the center and gas prices. “We haven’t really heard far as having less excess cash to spend on retail, it’s money toward higher fuel costs, it will cut into spending of that as a deterrent,” she said. “Right now, we are not at going to put a pinch on that.” in other places.” She said currently, consumers aren’t as the point where people are changing their habits. The According to Salomon Smith Barney, of the roughly burdened as one might think because low interest rates values being offered offset any increased expense.” $37,000 median U.S. family income after taxes, $4,000 to have eased mortgage payments and other debts. She said that traffic has been good recently, but she However, if fuel prices climb higher and another inter- acknowledged that world concerns, such as probable est rate cut fails to materialize, added energy costs war with Iraq and the economy, could be affecting pur- People still need to buy daily could bite into consumer spending. chasing. She also said gas prices could affect store oper- Stephen Gallagher, U.S. chief economist at SG Cowen, ations, such as shipments. “It will be interesting to see consumables,“ but as gas takes said energy prices have remained on the high side for how their costs are going to affect prices, maybe reduce longer than anticipated. “We expected high prices in the number of shipments, but I haven’t seen anything di- up a bigger portion of one’s mid-February, when prices spiked higher due to an antic- rectly related to that,” Alvarez said. “The stores are ipated war with Iraq. While the war didn’t materialize, it doing such an incredible job offering value. People can wallet share, it’s at the expense did leave prices at an elevated level. Consumers are still save so much, so a trip to the mall is definitely worth it. buying houses and durable goods, but they are curtailing The gas is minimal. People are still looking for enter- of discretionary purchases their discretionary spending to do so. The combination of tainment, and they are still looking for values. While higher energy prices for longer periods and the cold win- people are still waiting to see what’s going to happen like apparel. ter has been a double whammy for the apparel sector.” [around the world], right now, I don’t think it’s had a ” The economist pointed out that some firms have great effect.” — Todd Slater, Lazard Frères & Co. passed along some of those costs, at least temporarily But analysts and industry executives hint it might boosting prices at the wholesale level. Trucks and ship- just be a matter of time before the skyrocketing price of $5,000 goes toward energy costs, including filling up ping firms, for example, are passing the costs on a busi- gas means consumers cut back on discretionary pur- cars plus heating and lighting homes. Accordingly, a 75 ness-to-business basis. While they don’t want to perma- chases, particularly apparel. percent year-over-year rise in oil prices and a “severe nently raise rates, Gallagher said, they are hitting man- “This is an issue that affects retailers in multiple upward spike” in natural gas prices could have a $4,000 ufacturers and importers with surcharges to compen- ways,” said J. Craig Shearman, senior director of media to $5,000 impact on consumer discretionary spending, sate for the higher costs. relations for the National Retail Federation. “There are annually. Some actions could have a more lasting effect on transportation costs for merchandise, heating and air con- The firm also estimates that the rise of just 1 cent in prices. “We’ve been getting warnings from refiners that ditioning costs. Electricity is a major cost, not too far be- the price of gasoline represents about $1 billion in lost they are still making home heating oil and haven’t start- yond employee salaries and real estate costs. But I don’t consumer expenditures. ed refining for gas for summer use yet,” Gallagher said. think we are at the point where $2 a gallon at the gas sta- “The ‘shock’ of higher oil prices in the near-term is That could mean low gasoline inventory along with tion is keeping customers from making a trip to stores. likely to cause short-term disruptions in spending,” said higher prices at the time when consumers are gassing “For some people, it may reach the point of affecting SSB analyst Deborah Weinswig, in a research note. up for vacations. discretionary trips. I don’t think it’s quite there yet, but if “While a regression of same-store sales at retailers to George Magnus, chief economist for UBS Warburg in fuel prices continue up, we could get there very soon. It the absolute level of fuel prices failed to show a signifi- London, wrote in a report last week that crude oil might be felt first in resort destinations. People aren’t cant relationship due to ‘noise’ such as weather and na- prices are up 33 percent over the average of 2002 and going to cancel a trip to the mall, where the difference tional events, we believe that the impact is being felt at are up more than 60 percent year-over-year. While the between a $1.50 a gallon or $2 a gallon wouldn’t matter most retailers.” firm’s oil analysts believe they will come down if the that much, but people may decide not to take a vacation Lazard Frères & Co. equity analyst Todd Slater U.S. goes to war with Iraq and Saddam Hussein is dis- where the fuel costs are significant, such as a drive cross- agreed that rising fuel prices would take a bite out of posed of, the longer they stay at higher levels, “the IANNACONE country or to the national parks, or from Washington D.C. the consumer’s discretionary spending. “People still greater the risk that the damage has already been done to the Jersey shore. For retailers situated in these desti- need to buy daily consumables, but as gas takes up a to global growth,” he wrote. HOMAS T

Y nation spots, where shopping is a major component of va- bigger portion of one’s wallet share, it’s at the expense — With contributions from B cation activities, there could be an impact.” of discretionary purchases like apparel,” he said. Evan Clark, Dan Burrows

Some retail experts think stores catering to blue-col- In an environment where energy costs are rising, he and Vicki M. Young PHOTO 14 WWD West 2003 12, Walk of Style Postponed MARCH , Fashion Week: Full Stea Continued from page 2 plan is in place or in development should a mili- made and celebrate the Walk of Style,” Rodeo tary strike occur. After Sept. 11, the 2001 Emmys By Rose Apodaca Jones fashion community has been Drive Association president Peri Ellen Berne reit- were postponed for a month to Oct. 7, the date the evolving for some seasons now, it erated Tuesday. “We really wanted this to be a joy- U.S. government decided on its surprise strike in LOS ANGELES — It’s supposed to wasn’t until 7th on Sixth’s deci-

WEDNESDAY ous time, but not when lives are at stake.” Afghanistan. After a second postponement, the be the grandest fashion week here sion to stage a program here that Despite no official word that the 75th Academy show, albeit a markedly scaled-back and more yet, complete with professionally industry impetus went up a Awards or any of the more than two dozen teas, din- somber version, finally took place on Nov. 4. staged shows, an unprecedented notch. WWD, ner galas or promotional Calls Tuesday into schedule and buyers and press The new-and-improved Los suites slated during the European houses head- from the East Coast and abroad. Angeles Fashion Week opens seven days leading up to ing to Hollywood for But will war — or the threat of April 1 with David Cardona, Peter Oscar Sunday have been Academy Awards week it — cause it to fizzle? Cohen and others at The shelved, the question of indicated no changes in It’s a concern weighing heavily Downtown Standard, 7th on whether to go forward current plans. on designers, publicists and or- Sixth’s venue for “Mercedes-Benz with business as normal The Valentino team ganizers here as they push for- Shows L.A.,” and closes April 4 looms large. Services confirmed it will be in ward in planning runway shows with Petro Zillia and Richard surrounding the Oscars, town to lunch with stylists that are beyond anything this Tyler. At three on-site locations, from beauty treatments and tend to actresses fledgling new wave has achieved including a tent on the parking to hotel rooms, are esti- through Sunday. Matthew in the recent past. lot, the program features 26 de- mated to bring $61 mil- Williamson remains set to “I am thinking about it, no signers and brands, including lion into the regional arrive early next week, as doubt about that,” said Michelle Trina Turk, Kate O’Connor and economy. Global rev- is Elie Saab, according to Mason, who will be showing her Heatherette. enues — from film atten- both designers’ Los Ang- signature designer and Mason In January, Smashbox Studios, dance boosts to take-out eles publicist. Garrard contemporary lines April 3 at the the Culver City, Calif.,-based cam- business the night of the creative director Jade The Standard Downtown. pus popular among celebrity televised event — sur- Jagger is still intending on “When I heard about the photographers and owned by pass the $600 million Rodeo Drive, which hosted a fashion show in 2000, moving into the Beverly turnout at Coterie in New York, Max Factor grandsons Dean and mark, according to in- hopes to reschedule the launch of Walk of Style. Hills Hotel to meet with I wondered how many people Davis Factor, announced its own dustry estimates. celebrity clients through will commit to flying out to L.A. program, “Smashbox Fashion Yet the political climate is throwing a shadow the week, according to a spokeswoman. And Stella It’s really rough right now with Week Los Angeles.” Two to three over whether this is a time for glamour or not. McCartney, who will host a lunch at the W suite, re- the way the economy is. For shows daily begin April 2, culmi- Although it didn’t appear to dissuade starlets at last mains onboard. small companies like ours, we nating in four April 5. Among the Sunday’s Screen Actors Guild Awards — considered Echoing other publicists, however, the Armani could be really hard hit,” she designers on board there are one of the best-dressed and most colorful fashion spokesman added: “We are reviewing the situa- added. Ashley Paige, Eduardo Lucero turnouts ever for the event — the after-parties were tion day-by-day. I spoke with the publishers of “It’s certainly a preoccupa- and Rami Kashou. reportedly less exuberant than in previous years. Vanity Fair and In Style, as well as the public rela- tion,” admitted Megan Griffiths, Independent shows are joining As of Monday, Gil Cates, producer of this tions people at Versace, on Monday to get a sense local director of Gen Art, which the calendar almost daily. year’s Academy Awards show on March 23, told of where their heads are and the sense I got is is departing from its biannual Promising new clothes from those the Los Angeles Times that war or no war, “the that we are all waiting to see what happens. It’s rising star showcase at its April shown in New York, Imitation of show will go on.” really now up to Mr. Bush or the United Nations to 4 Shrine Auditorium event by Christ will show at The Downtown Still, it’s widely believed that a contingency make a decision.” featuring alumna Jared Gold Standard (not as part of and Alicia Lawhon (and a third “Mercedes-Benz Presents L.A.”), yet-to-be-announced designer) to and Jeremy Scott will stage a rock mark the nonprofit group’s 10th ’n’ art romp at the landmark anniversary. “You can’t make Palace in Hollywood. any decisions without thinking Momentum has also motivated what will be happening in a cou- the historic competitors into sur- ple of weeks. It’s tough to have a prising friendships. lovely good fashion time when The California Market Center there are troops moving into po- (formerly the California Mart), OUR HOTELS ARE sition for war.” the New Mart, the Gerry That said, cheap airline tickets Building, the Cooper Building — as low as $250 round trip from and the Designers & Agents New York to Los Angeles — have show have joined forces to cre- FULL OF HOT AIR. prompted some editors and retail ate “Intersection,” a marketing buyers to book seats recently. effort marked by their addresses Still, coverage could be aborted if along the four corners of Los world politics interrupt: potential Angeles and Ninth Streets in coverage on CNN would be imme- downtown which, said D&A’s Ed diately scrapped, speculated Kim Mandelbaum, “historically has Bondy, vice president of special been the center of the L.A. fash- programming in Atlanta for the ion community. 24-hour news network. “People need to stop thinking Even without the threat of mil- about their personal agendas itary action, the fashion commu- and start thinking about what’s nity here has been feeling the good for the group,” he noted pressure. “A lot of eyes are on Tuesday by phone from New L.A. right now, our fashion scene York. “People want to come and everything happening here,” here. Of course, if there’s this believes Petro Zillia designer gigantic war, who knows what Nony Tochterman, who, like will happen. But I don’t think many, are receiving notice from people see L.A. and New York market editors and East Coast the same way.” buyers of their westward travel Fern Mallis, executive direc- plans. “Whether we have a war to tor of 7th on Sixth, acknowledges deal with or not, it’s got to be a the concern of a possible war, great success.” but stresses that business must Hair dryers in every room — just one of the features that make our hotels the hottest values Although the buzz on the city’s continue. “We got through New in Manhattan. Sometimes it’s the little things that make all the difference. York with the Orange alert and we closed the shows with Mrs. Bush in the tents. We all have to FREE LOCAL CALLS • TELEPHONE WITH DATA PORT • VOICE MAIL • WEB TV • INTERNET ACCESS • FITNESS ADVERTISEMENT proceed. 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Under- 15 WWD,

Quiksilver Mounts Chinese Strategy WEDNESDAY

LOS ANGELES — Maybe the surf’s not quite up in China lated manner by not announcing they’re opening hun- yet, but Quiksilver Inc. is ready to make waves in the dreds of stores before seeing the results of their efforts.” retail-hungry country. Brink said the new Quiksilver Boardriders Club stores The Huntington Beach, Calif.-based maker of surf, will open in shopping and street locations, averaging , Steam Ahead skate and snowboard apparel has partnered with about 800 square feet compared with typical domestic MARCH Glorious Sun Enterprises Ltd. to open stores and man- units that range from 2,500 to 3,000 square feet. written spaces were also awarded age the wholesale distribution of its products in China. Quiksilver and Roxy are the two lines the stores will carry to Michelle Mason, Magda About five to 10 stores are slated to open in initially, and depending on their success, others, like Berliner, Gray Ant and Cornell Shanghai, by late 2003 or early 2004, with locations Hawk, might be added. 12, planned in Beijing and Hong Kong after that. Nicolas Quiksilver has had an Asian presence for about 20 Collins. 2003 And many designers are Giannoli, formerly chief operating officer of Quiksilver years under license, and just bought out the Quiksilver pulling out all the stops. Favors Europe, has moved to Shanghai, where he will be Asia/Pacific license in December. That represented 35 are being called in to celebrity Quiksilver’s managing director of China. stores in Australia, Japan and Hong Kong. As of the end friends to attend. Sue Wong and Officials wouldn’t detail the final number of stores of January, Quiksilver had 355 stores domestically and Tree have hired Mitie Tucker, scheduled to open in the region or expected sales from abroad, including 74 in the U.S., 146 in Europe and who produces runway for Anna the stores. 100 in licensed territories, like Turkey and Mexico. Sui, Giorgio Armani and the VH1 “[Glorious Sun is] the arms and legs of the operation Meanwhile, as reported, Quiksilver said earnings for the Vogue Fashion Awards, for their in terms of wholesale and retail and we give them the first quarter ending Jan. 31 hit $6.6 million, or 24 cents events. brand and connection to the youth market, which is get- a share, up from $3.1 million, or 13 cents a share, com- And Ghost’s Tanya Sarne has ting more connected to the Western culture through tel- pared with the same year-ago period. For the fiscal year enlisted Marie-Amelie Sauve, evision and music,” said Steve Brink, Quiksilver’s chief ended Oct. 31, the firm posted net earnings up 34.2 per- known for her work with financial officer. “We think the potential is huge in cent to $37.6 million, or $1.54 a diluted share, on sales Balenciaga and at French Vogue, China. With about 300 million teenagers there, it’s a of $700.7 million, up 13.8 percent from $615.5 million to reenergize her collection pres- fast-growing market.” a year ago. Chairman and chief executive Robert McKnight entation. Analysts applauded the move, saying Quiksilver has said in a statement that Quiksilver is on track to hit earn- Said Smashbox’s Dean Factor: A found a strong partner in Hong Kong-based Glorious Sun, ings increases of 20 percent this year. And, its store expan- “At the end of the day, the buyers which operates more than 500 stores in mainland China. sion has paved the way to bigger brand-building. SARDELL “It’s a lot easier to penetrate that market with a part- “One of the factors for its success is the appeal of its need to be here, the editors need O to be here. All we can do is pro- DaviDavidd Cardona T ner,” said Jeff Van Sinderen, retail analyst at B. Riley & image reflecting the California lifestyle,” Van Sinderen ONA D vide the best experience we can Co., an institutional research and trading firm in Santa said. “What you see are kids aspiring to that, whether or showed during Y B

to make them feel welcome and O Monica, Calif., noting Quiksilver’s cautious expansion not they surf, skate or snowboard.”

Los Angeles Fashion T O

comfortable. As we say here, ‘the H approach. “They’re doing this in a conservative, calcu- — Nola Sarkisian-Miller Week last fall. P show must go on.’”

Design Assistant Store Managers & SALES MANAGEMENT SENIOR DESIGNER SKAGEN DESIGNS Ltd. Couture Evening House in Assistant Managers Lake Tahoe London Fog Industries is the leading designer, market- L.A. is seeking atalented Well known French design- We are expanding our sales force to add a position in our er and distributor of quality outerwear and rainwear. and experienced individual er. For LA & SF. Excellent corporate office in Reno, Nevada. We will be hiring a sales with high level of taste and compensation & benefits. driven professional who has a proven track record of manag- We proudly represent London Fog, Pacific Trail, Black Fax:212-481-4086 [email protected] Dot, Dockers, Moonstone and Roffe outerwear and re- awareness of current trends. ing major retail programs in territories or nationally. The posi- Experience with embroideries tion may involve up to 50% travel. lated products to meet dress, casual, social and techni- and sketching skills a must. Account Executive cal outerwear needs. We are currently seeking a Se- Please Fax resume along Must have excellent sales and retail management experience nior Designer to drive the creative direction and vision with salary history to: working with major department store buyers , regional account of our children’s line. A passion for children’s style, 310-559-4519 sales reps and merchandisers. Please either fax or e-mail your commitment to excellence and desire to make a differ- resume to: 775-850-5533 or [email protected] ence are critical to success in this position. Our offices You may visit our website at www.skagen.com sit on Lake Union in downtown Seattle, offering stellar views of the lake, sailboats and seaplanes. Seattle is a diverse city, with the benefits of big city living and the FREELANCE BUYER Looking for great outdoors. Our requirements include a Bachelor’s GUIDE FOR Sales Pro! degree in Apparel Design, min. 5 years designer exp., LOS ANGELES BigHeart, a Yoga accessories knowledge of pattern making and garment construc- An international luxury com- company with a patented, cutting- tion. Prefer prior experience designing a children’s Does your retail outlet need munications company has an edge yoga mat carrier, is looking outerwear. We offer excellent salary and benefits in a fresh, new merchandise but exciting opportunity where forsalespeople in LA to capitalize TOP DOLLAR can’t afford the expensive you can make a difference! creative and dynamic work environment. buying trips to Los Angeles? on press hits in Vogue, Shape, We are currently seeking a Fitness, etc. FOR RETURNS,IR’S Hire us as your Freelance professional West Coast, Send resume immediately to: [email protected] OR CLOSEOUTS Buyer. Strong merchandising We provide re: Senior Designer. For more info please visit our skills and tough negotiator. Wholesale Account WALT ADAMS INC Executive the leads and support, website at www.londonfog.com/lfi. We are AA/EEO T: 800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 T: (310) 379-7533 or you provide employer committed to workplace diversity. [email protected] [email protected] Must have luxury goods experi- established contacts at specialty ence & a wholesale background. stores or yoga/fitness studios. Must be willing to travel. We Send resume to: are an innovative company offering an excellent benefits pack- [email protected] or age & much more! fax 201-222-7883 Please fax resumes to: 818-876-3285 or email [email protected] SALESPERSON Must use reference code: WWDWC Hot Jr Contemporary Established hot jr contemporary mfr in L.A. seeks in-house salesperson with strong contacts with major chain stores. Salary + comm. Please fax resume to: (213) 746-6993 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 12, 2003 rc,$.7y. hl tc lasts. Order stock $0.99/yd. stock, stock while Base, $0.89/ in special colors maraboa, $0.77/yd., Other Black price, Gr 25 Steven Lambert212-944-6094 Largest SupplierofIN-STOCKWoven OFF PRICEBRANDEDAPPAREL Made toorderonallknits+corduroy Richard Price594-1414 Ex265 FASHION COREBERNSTEIN R CLOSE OU CLOSE SUPPLEX*SUPPLEX 50-70% offOriginalWholesale.Women’s, Peter [email protected] Terry -FrenchDazzleMesh IDEAL FORSHWRM/OFC/DESIGN We buymen’s,women’s&children’s Venture Textiles1-800-4-SUPPLEX Cash ForRetailStock&Closeouts. Domestic/Export www.fabrics.com GREAT LIGHT*FULLFLOORS Men’s &Kids.Warehouseapptsavail. apparel. Largequantitieswanted. Supplex Fabrics.Prints&Solids. Rib-Lycra-Jersey-Fleece Contact Marsha@516-239-8111 1407 BROADWAY NoLotTooBigorSmall. Three by201-861-0033 Drake Fabrics.718-389-8902 SHOWROOMS/OFFICES 226 W.37th Call CLOTHES-OUT: TREBOR MGMT *ALL Off-Price* 5600 SqFt BEN ELIAS TYE DYE y (937) 898-2975 d. Call213-486-0044 TS U.S.OREXPORTS yblwmre au.Cl o noat info for Call ft. value. 212-239-7272 orfax212-643-1379. market sq. below substantial- at ly 3,900+ showroomspace / building. office center ment A Show -ShipManufacture Garment CenterBldg. 212-629-8694 M-F10am-6pm.NoFee. BWAY 7THAVESIDESTREETS W 38thSt13,000FtDIV. $18Deal Paul, Mike,Larr GARMENT CENTERREALESTATE Prime ManhattanScott212-268-8043 1 BRSHOWROOMstartingat$1625. albefrsbes npeirgar- premier in sublease for vailable Search- www.manhattanoffices.com Hi Ceils.WdFlrs.ImmedOccup. Under MarketSublets-NOFEE! Showrooms &Lofts For ALLoffice&loftSPACES Great ’New’OfficeSpaceAvail ADAMS &CO.212-679-5500 488 7thAvenue 700-5000’ NewPreBuilts 212-947-5500 Live/Work 500-20,000 SQ.FT y , Don,Jerr y orElliot

Midtown NYC.Pleasecall212-944-9381 500 sq.ft.Bright/sunny.Greatspace. B.Forman, WinokerRlt BROADWAY 37th-38thSts 212-840-4480 212-840-4481 212-840-4480 New wndws,FullyA/C.24/7Access office &showroomunits 1200-8795sf tower has severalattractive FASHION CENTERbldg Call/Fax GerardJ.Falcone Divisible, ImmediatePossession VERY MOTIVATEDTORENT 2785/4100/7800 SF 2offices&receptionistarea 1359Broadway 1384 BWAY t OFFICE/SHOWROOM ...MarketRentals (CPA/Professionals) he DISTINCTIVE 225 W.35ST Tel/computerallset ...NBIAvailable Call:917-721-9062 SUBLET 6 monthsshare y ,212-519-2015 flr rcwtros opr,Kohl’s Coopers, Pricewaterhouse n hlrnsseper oe and Com- robes available. puterized grading,markers&cutting. packages Full sleepwear, blouses. children’s and A E-mail China. in zhang for moreinfo: Mfr. approved Jones orbyr si.Sv ie money time, Save to is. show as traveling &searching. reach or buyers interpret they your to with ready line, before your samples Style you competition. your & to the runway the & delivered on bodies shown hottest trends newest the weekly of your deliveries Europea bringing your connection & runway legs, your eyes, I’myour and shipping. Monitoring pick-pack allocation, location. distribution, Midtown N.Y.C. service Full shop tothetrade.Finefastwork. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing Fast cost. Low w quality. High Reliable. h oiia eulc a open ladies of week Has per dz. 2,000 Republic. in of years capacity Dominican 17 over the and experience years COMPUTER PATTERNS Shipping &ReceivingFacility Specializing inSweaters,Knits,Woven Delivering fullpackagestowarehouse. Vol Production/CompetitivePricing Currently, manufacturinghighquality Email: [email protected] for quickturnaroundUSAproduction. Automatic Trimming(212)629-8388 All lines,Anystyles.FineFastService. Have itfast.right. itsell. Import-LDP fromOrient Manufacturing Facility TREND SPOTTING Floor Opportunity. Distributors -Sublicenseesneeded. Small orbiglots.Wedomarkersand Very capablemanufactureravailable PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERN/SAMPLES Dept. Stores&MassMerchandisers. Professionals needonlyapply.Open CASHMERE! FineGaugesweaters! ork. Custom-madeBridalwr212-629-4808 eia aaeetwt vr40 over with management merican Group trainavail 10 Classes/Upto45K/internavail *Train AsstDesigner&Prod’nAsst* 54 hrsPkg/Flats,Prints,Colorways **Photoshop 7.0&Illustrator10.0** [email protected] markets forSpecialtyStores,Major PATTERNS/SAMPLES National Iconof"StreetBall"fame! COTTON, RAYON,NYLON,SILK, Urban sportswear/apparel;Ground Manufacturers &st FASHION TRAINING Gerberpds2000, pattern,sample& compatible. women’s apparel.LectraSoftware Young/talented Internationaland Creative Financing Call Bradat212-889-1646ext316 orders &contracts Can turngoodsinthreeweeks! Permanent Pleating,Ruffling Call Jimat212-889-1646ext319 Inquiries toSpanDaumitLLC: E-mail [email protected] samples too.Call973-266-0901 We insureandfundpurchase E-mail: [email protected] Trained Hundredssince2002 Call Jerr Please callJohn212-391-4479 production. Call212-594-3595 Contact: Lynn@RUNWAY APPAREL/SPORTSWEAR 12 West23rdStreet,NYC Call Sherr PRODUCTIONS ELASTIC SMOCKING PRODUCTION Cut/Sew/Ship 212-279-7268 Fax: (201)503-1088 Dominican FREE SAMPLES Fax: 212.929.5440 "TRIKZ" Tel: 212.807.1708 212-869-2699 y 809-246-1885ext23 Call (229)762-3535or y , 212-719-0622. / www.vic-usa.com Representatives- T:212-268-7291 y y [email protected] lists welcome. 888-782-4188 n s , ’ Ed Kret,Textiles/Apparel212-213-6384 Nancy Bottali,Accessory212-213-6386 Ileen Raskin212-213-6381 odes laefxbifif and info brief fax phone numberto212-725-2703 Please toddlers. uiespeetydig$+million $3+ doing presently business Please faxresumeto212-244-0773 have experiencew/Excel&Word. of growingaccessoryimportco.Must Fax resumeto212-929-3971. PROFESSIONAL RESUMES,INC. w A n n utmrsrie uthave skills. Must W computer and service. accounting customer strong invoic- be and shipping control, ing of to inventory phases allocations, all individual for responsible organized meticulous, seeks highly designer High-end Data Entry$35K Sales Asst$45K A A A A RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 We’re LookingtoPurchas FASHION INDUSTRYSPECIALISTS Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists dmin Openings dministrative AssistanttoPresident t ao consi ebr thru newborn in accounts major ith Free Evaluation-LifetimeUpdates rigkoldeo D plus. a EDI of knowledge orking ieytndognztoa klsadfunyi A,Ilsrtrand Illustrator CAD, in fluency as and well successful as Photoshop orcomparable design softwarepackages. skills The experience, organizational sourcing division. recently leather finely-tuned extensive leathergoods our have small should join candidate and to a handbag seeks merchandiser/designer comapny accessories launched experienced footwearand and Italian dynamic fashion leading A salary and resume companies submit footwear immediately history to: branded please opportunity growing industry, challenging fastest the and in the exciting of an one socks, for with looking bags, are you as If such have accessories must athletic Candidates apparel designing hosiery, etc. athletic designer. yrs Accessories: accessory 7+ yrs Design, creative highly of 7+ and Director have detail, color, must for eye great experience. Candidate a has fabric. who designer apparel Br Global atc sloigfrtefloigkypol oji our and Apparel: join Design, Mecca to of people Director XOXO, key following Diesel, the of for team atourSantaBarbara,CAcorporateoffices: looking licensee is Nautica footwear global DMINISTRATIVE ASST. Please faxresume,coverletter andsalaryrequirementsto:212-696-2098 cct’s Payable$40 hlrnwa rchildrens-related or childrenswear RASKIN EXECUTIVESEARCH

GILBERT CAREERRESUMES Global BrandMarketingInc.,6500HollisterAvenue, www.resumesforfashion.com [email protected] 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 275 MadisonAveNYC10016 (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa www.raskinexecsearch.com Updating/Phone Interviews (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 fashioncareercenter.com RESUMES fashionresumes.com FAX:(805)562-5620E-Mail:[email protected] MERCHANDISER/DESIGNER Fax: 212-949-6146 Allocator Santa Barbara,CA93117Attn:HR n aktn,Ic we fPn,Dyso and Dry-shoD Pony, of owner Inc. Marketing, and K e • • creative. in experience extremely years -3 childrens. Exc.Salary&Benefitspackage. 2 be Minimum Individual girls. should and infant/toddler level to design Illustrator/Photoshop, taste of great knowledge seeks with company individual Childrenswear Major a skills must. Cute,femininestyle.Pleasesend computer MAC and Illustration Excellent designer/illustrator. level time entry full seeks studio Jersey Central blt otk ieto.Specific direction. & sep take color the print of & to knowledge skills organizational ability de- to clear attn sense, tail, color artwork. level, taste fromoriginal High Re-color y/d’s. re-interpret driven & ability prints & demonstrated print floral a design have mod to fluent & extremely U4ia of be in Must div co. sportswr paced Fast techniques. Emailresume •Planners/Sales Analyst...... $55-60K SusieJessil BUYER- Freelance Artist/Juniors Apparel Photoshop 7,Illustrator,10,Sketching ASSOCIATE DESIGNER and brandnameclothing.Accessories extensive knowledgeofbettermarket Budget MissySportswearWoven&Knits Export Co.needsexp’dfreelancewith P.O. Box665,Farmingdale,NJ07727 Asst DesignersLadiesActivewear Graphic Artist/PhotoIllustrator...$50-60K Resume and3samplesto:DawneP., Fax ResumeAttnCarla201-894-1186 a plus.Musthavenamerecognition. (Job 1)WovenTops2)Sweaters KARLYN FASHIONRECRUITERS SusieJessil eaeseiga experienced an seeking are We Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 CAD/Print Designer COLORIST $55-65K Please faxinfoto(212)244-9010 e-mail [email protected] ASST DESIGNERS$33-45K PRINT &PATTERN$40K [email protected] BEST JOBS! eaeloigfra for looking are We y [email protected] Call212-947-3400 y WILL TRAIN [email protected] or212-947-3400 w/ salary reqs: ...$45-50K printing : WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 12, 2003 17 l t . f f r d ) y timely Benefits. Must be ., a leader (212) 765-7474 EOE (212) 765-7474 (212) 764-4170 JEWELER Boys or Girls or Missy or Juniors Head Designer Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Fax resume to 212-239-2766. JOBS JOBS JOBS Lady’s Handbags MERCHANDISER OFFICE MANAGER Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 experienced person. A/S 400 knowl- IMPORT MANAGER Ladies apparel company seeks fully ith minimum 3 years experience. edge "a must". Please fax resume to: [email protected] or fax: 212-869-3938 Artists: Designer-Missy/Jr. Handbags Like 9 Wes Designers - Assists - Assoc - Boy or Girl Prod’n Sourcing Coords-bilingual Chinese MERCHANDISER/SALES MERCHANDISER Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agc MADISON AVENUE Order Entry/EDI Coord Merchandiser/Designer Please fax resume to: delivery. KnowledgeLC experience a must. of AS 400 required. NOVELTY SWEATER DESIGNER High endseeks missy energetic designer. noveltyexp. Min. 2-5 sweater Must yrs. Hangs have co. with great MichaelChristina. drawing Simon skills. &Please fax resume to Jack: 212-354-7634 Marisa Fast growingRockefeller men’s ctr.skills, detailed oriented, apparel computer liter- area.ate, imptr. direct Organizational tions, responsibilities involved in fora all facets sales opera- of &have running admin/ merchandising office office. mgmt exp. Must Please fax resume to: 212-244-0773 Major apparelw company seeksResponsibilities individua includemonitoring scheduling overseasprocessing and documents shipments to ensure and *Allocator & Picking Process * * *Designers Jrs: 1)C/S Knit 2)Sweaters * *Fit Technician *Production: Mgrs - Coords - Assists * *Technical Designers & Spec Techs Internationalentrepreneurial, fine self-motivated manager jeweleradministrative with seeking skills. Salaryexp. strong based Fax on ments to 212-447-9255. interpersonal resume and @ salary require- Leeward Internationalin Inc children’s sleepwearindividual seeks with experience minimumence 5 with yearsability one experi- to company. putand Must girls together have sleepwear.trend a CAD the savvy line proficiency required.confidence. Email resume: for and All toddle replies held in Major infantMerchandiser. Must be wear ableand to identify company forecastyears seeks experience. trends.benefits package. Good Minimum salary 3-5 and Major suit &Kellwood dress mfr., Co.,Must a have division seeks broadand o knowledge be of Merchandiser. Must able fabric also to haveimports. in Minimum forecast 5 depth yrs. color knowledge experiencequired. re- o For trends. consideration, faxresume to 212-398-5464 . EOE salary & Majorindividual apparelMust have mass merchants exp. with ladies/missys company exp. seeks Leading handbagdesigner co. ofhave is lady’s atbackground least handbags. seeking 3 &Excel a yrs. & experience, Must some Word retail programming. knowledge of on top of fashion trends & imports. ) K n n r www.lanecrawford.com $50-80K .... (Ref: HK_CVP_09) Hong Kong and China Hong Kong and (Based in Hong Kong) g’s leading specialty store with locations in g’s leading specialty NY 10021 , or email to : [email protected] Lane Crawford (Hong Kong) Limited Lane Crawford (Hong Kong) our web site at Group Human Resources Department [email protected] y PHIC ARTIST New York [email protected] Executive VP/ [email protected] or Hong Kon Sales Executive 25/F, NatWest Tower, Times Square, Hong Kong No phone calls please. EOE Please forward resumes to: CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: Fit Model/Design Asst For more information of Lane Crawford group, please visit Creative and Visual Presentation Manager Visual Presentation Creative and GRAPHIC ARTIST Please call 212-972-9300 or e-mail: GRA P.O. Box 1299, Lenox Hill Station, An exciting opportunityquarters. has arisen The inmanagement our role of Hong departmental will Kong anding branch head- be thematic store staff,in-store development, responsible includ- displays, styling for fixturesdivisions direction, direction and windows including and environmentmenswear and and home concept fashions. womenswear, Schedulesence for and are budgets all crucial. footwear, experi- Ifmanagerial you experience have accessories, 5 in - preeminentdepartment 7 store, luxury years with goods visual strong / merchandising leader fashion leading sense, with as a anand talent innovative presentation for strategies, establishing please reference no. to: ent salary package and the above apply effective with merchandising your CV, pres- ith clerical duties in off time from ork are sometimes required. Salary ill be accepted. Send resumes to: ork in the development of prints, ear exp. a must in the girl/boys t least 5’9", dress size 4, 34" bust, orking knowl of Illustrator & Photoshop. (4 Opptys in Men’s better, Women’s (Cut & Sew Knits and some sourcing exp RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER MERCH/SALES COORDINATORS.... $35-50 Merchandising Directo Email resume: [email protected] or (Strong contacts. Must know creative srvs.) (Exp with NEDGRAPHICS or U4IA*) (Men’s, Women’s, and Children’s) (Men’s, Women’s & Children’s) (Junior Sweaters, tops or Sleepwear) (Support VP of Global Advertising) GROMWELL GROUP Designer - Women’s Divisio Urban Wear and Juniors) moderate, Designer - Men’s Divisio *CAD DESIGNERS...... $35-70K *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-70K *PRODUCTION...... $25-42K * fittings. Mustgood be natured. mild Good organizationalpc mannered and skills and a +. Long hours and+ weekend benefits.expectations Only and body resumes measurements with pay embroideries anddesigns appliques sizes forfor 7-16. Will girls be theboard responsible presentation projects. development Must have of wovens & inf/tod area. GoodFull-time working conditions. resume position to:e-mail to: n 212-594-7925 potential. Att: Jose or Fax *ACCT EXECS...... $65-150K *DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER$125K * *ADMIN COORDINATOR ...... $50-60K *SALES MGRS/SR AE’s...... to $125K *PRODUCTION MGR...... $80-150K (Exp with Wovens, Knits or Sweaters) Designer for men’s division of int’l garment co. At least 5 yrs. working exp. Designer for women’s div. of int’l garment co. At least 5 yrs. working exp. Sales Exec. for int’l apparel co. Young, energetic & dynamic personality with relationships at various retailers. At least 3 yrs. exp. Eager to learn. A w w w Leading childrenswear mfrfor a searching Graphic Artist.w The candidate will w Leadingtalented/organized Childrenswear Graphicin-house Artist Co. for freelancecreative position. w/exc. seeks C.A.D Mustw skills. be Childrens International apparel co. focusing on sptswr. and leather, needs Exec. V.P./ Merchandising Dir. Job Description: Includes supervisor of merchandising, prod’n devel. and design dept. At least 10 yrs. proven exp. fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. *PUBLIC RELATIONS MGR...$70-85K 24"waist, 34"hipdesign to director. Mustfor be be long able measured periods tothe of above stand by time requiredfit and body standards maintain sessions. for Will assist design team / l

y .com g player. manufacturer Call 212-221-0870 y (201) 229-5083 to: 212-840-2272 y Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 armentcentralpd g, g histor y 212-556-5303 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 y DIRECTOR OF Please fax your resume with DIVISION HEAD salar Fax resumes to AC: 212-922-9405 package for individual with Kohl’s, European/Contemporary Collection DESIGNER/Stylist-4+yrs w/a Boys /all major benefits. Fax resume to: for Young Men’s Division. Excellent pplicant should possess a modern STRA, Golf wear, located in Manhattan, ated and detail oriented skills, able to Les Richards Agc Garment central seeks Division Pres. DESIGNER-WOVENS EDI/SHIPPING ASST FASHION PLACEMENT Better Contemp Int’l Vertical Retailer Dir of Prod’n Woven $130K Must have branded & PL sweater bkgnd only. ToddWa Sears, Mervyn’s or Penney’s following. create line/do tech packages. $75-85K DIVISION PRESIDENT E-mail: Jack@ Apparel Staffin 4-20 urban activewear mfr/do graphics/ Please fax resume to: (212) 869-1525 or Designer/Merchandiser 5+ yrs. Exp.neg. preferred. Salary/Comm. 212-448-0575 or Call: 212-448-0543 upon exp. Fax resume: recognizeFollow urgency up onto the shipping and appropriate fromoverseas bases. customer on Must a prioritize. be3-5 years experience. daily very hard worker and NYC based Evening Wear seeks individualUPC, with & excellentMust have EDI, great ASN computerv skills, moti- shipping experience. A seeks a part-time ormerchandiser who freelance can designer providetrend seasona direction forcation design, color, and fabri- Individual silhouette must of have3-5 golf years a apparel. ofing minimum designing experience of or ingolf merchandis- active wear. sportswear or experience. Salary Please commensurate faxman Resources at with resume to Hu- Fast paced,seeking designer privateA with label 5-7 compan yrs. exp. Excellent flatabilities sketching are fitfollow-up and a w/pre/post spec and necessity. production do presentation work Also, boards.w Public must Co. Berkeley College aschool four is year lookingan business to hire extensive abackground person and to with direct diversifiedplacement and fashion managegraduates of the located in New York and New Jersey. fashion for interns our and five campuses clean approachextremely toskilled design. detailed, communicator and Must team be organized, a - f s .com EOE g kids.com y r, Fine Jewelry is located in the western , a wholesale manufacturer Designer 610-989-4160 DESIGNER DESIGNER hr@verawan DESIGNER & HARTSTRINGS Job Code: DES01 EOE Fax resume to Meg @ 212-532-4335 ith minimum of 3 years experience. ill have 3-5+ years design experience our resume will be handled confiden- [email protected] als and color/style coordination o Designe Junior Denim Designer ewelry line. Will serve as primary ife insurance, 401K plan & much more. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Must be organizedMAC Illustrator proficiency a must. & detail-oriented - (children’s/junior collectionspreferred but strongly not required.), Bachelor’ liaison between ourfine company jewelry and licensee.key our Must havecommercially been agent successful,luxury brand established in ofyour fine portfolio jewelry. To reviewed manufacturing have please email a Leading baby / toddlerfacturing company manu- diaper bagsitems and roomdecor w seeks experienced Designer degree infield; Fashion must Design haveand or excellent attention tastetion/artwork abilities. related to level, detailHartstrings with illustra- salary and bonusl package, health/dental/ resume with salary requirements to: DESIGNER For large int’l vertical denim co. Man- hattan, NY office for new division prod uct devel. Must have exp in jeans fashion trends & size specs. Excellent pros- pect! Pls send resume: 212-827-0011. Large Children’s Co. looking for16 girls designer 4- withknowledge. some merchandising Wenotch designer are who lookingries, knows fabrications for the and a catego- lookshappening that top will in be Y the children’s market. your resume and salary requirements to: Leadingdetailed company girl’sbackground designers for seeks verynity. with exciting opportu- creative, Urban junior hang background withPhat. a Organization Roc-a-Wear,tion plus. skills and essential. To J-Lo, Mustin be communica- Illustrator proficient Baby and736-5839, Photoshop. Attn: FaxE-mail: elizt@happ 212- Human Resources or Hartstrings of high-endlooking children’s for sportswear,Responsibilities an is experiencedcontribution Designer. include in the inopment the process significant design devel- forlines; girls’ & boys’ product frominitialturnover concept tofor production. through trend/marketment Responsible research; andinitiating establish- follow through anddevelopment; of handling maintaining artwork; v lineboard lab dip appro- product lines.w Qualified candidates suburbs ofcomprehensive Philadelphia. compensation and Wed benefits offer a package including competitive 10+ years provenexperience creative & required technical develop to ourj launch newly and announced fine Qualified candidates, please Fax/E-mail tially. Faxat: 212-967-2949 resume to Trend Zone Inc. 212-764-7057 Call (212) 221-0870 y Men’s (212) 398-1661 Activewear Designer/ DESIGNER DESIGNER [email protected] Fax resume: 212-695-9721 Head Design Jr. Sweaters Fax resume to 212-971-2277 Exp. w/ Adobe Illustrator a must. edge of the trends and new fabric. Design Assistant ell known Accessory Co. Design DESIGNER-3+ yrs exp w/a Y/Mens Please fax resume to (212) 239-9729 Assistant Designer Missy sportswear co. seeks creative, ssoc. Designer Boys 4-18. Organized, trim resource. Please fax resume to: Detail oriented, very organized. Line DESIGNER $100K++ sheets, specs, print development and FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 DESIGN ASSISTANT experienced candidates. Good knowl- design/MAC nec/sm tvl/brand co. $55-65K top or bottoms(jeans) co/create/do tech Les Richards Agc Kid, Teens, Adults, Women and Mens. Or Email: [email protected] Boys 4-18seeks licensed highly motivatedsportswear apparel individual line. importer for Photoshop and Min Illust.ized, 2 self Must yrs starter, beplayer, able to manage others. exp detail organ- oriented, with team Designer $75K A MUST HAVE CURRENT EXPERIENCE! W Fax Resume w/salary info: 914-962-2257 Fast-paced Outerwear Companyan seeks extremely organized individualexcellent with computernecessary) skills to do (web designduction. details PDM Salary for pro- Please fax resume to: based on experience. teamplayer, workdesign in allproduction. frominception 2-3 aspects yearsgarment of experience construction, to with presentations, specing, board follow-up. final Illustrator, and Strong Photoshopmust. and knowledge Excel production of a DESIGNER-BELTS To 60K NYC Loc. / . : f g d oriented -iii.com

g EOE 212-864-5595 212-564-9507 Fax/E-mail resume/cover letter: DATA ENTRY Fax resume to Ebi: 212-869-5393 ord. Min. 3 years exp. NJ based, 20 /ability to identify/interpret fashion S400 a plus. Fax resume & salary history CUSTOMER SERVICE CUSTOMER SERVICE ales orders, customer svc & compliance Assistant Designer DESIGN ASSISTANT Computer Artist/Designer 212-403-0561 / portiaa@ Must possess& analytical strong skills, proficient communication in Excel, W 401K benefits. Generous employeecount. dis- & specs, w/knowledgestruction of & garment basic con- textilesw and/or leather, trends. Candidates should beself-starters motivate who workently well and independ- withenvironment. others Computer inexperience literate a in (with graphic fasta design paced +), software organized,munication/follow-up and have skills. strongopportunity Excellent com- forour beginners; team! Come Salaryexperience) join (commensurate + with bonus, medical/dental Branded outerwear co.individuals seeks proficient 2 talented in flat sketching Bridge day to eveninggood suit house organizer seeks with& sketching abilities. Min 3 yrs exp. strong designing DESIGN Children’sindiv. apparel for DatafromProduction Entry importer Dept. of factoryputer Must literate seeks orders (Excel be knowledgeFax resume to Production Manager at: a com- plus). A Fortune 500 co.indiv to seeks interact detail w/s key acct, overseein Contemporary knitwearan company energetic,detail seeks personable, oriented caringlots teamplayer and who oforganizational has integrity,Individual must and also stylemultiple be able and to tasks phoneassist handle very strong andsales. busy skills. Computer be showroomincluding literate, knowledge prepared o to The MayfairCAD Company designer seeks with atfor creative least 4 development yearsfromconcept exp. of toddlerMAC through programs PhotoshopMUST. production. Excellent &right opportunity Illustrator forattn: person. the is [email protected] a Please or email@ faxConverter Imports...... 55K resume Converter Knit Exp...... 45K Raskin Exec Search Ed Kret Fax: 212-949-6146 Tel: 212-213-6384 min. from NYC.requirements to HR @ 212.689.2631 Fax resume & salary 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 12, 2003 ucaeodrwiig Strong & skills writing. organizational Excel proficient. order & analytical purchase communication & vendor & tracking, inventory sales include; flow. merchandise Responsibilities math, & control retail inventory of & or understanding allocation hensive Degree / compre- planning include; Bachelor Qualifications in buying. exp. compan w/ yrs. 1+ Manufacturing indiv. seeks / Importer in op. retail/whsle a w Barth, St. Calypso for only draping bridal sewing, and fittings.Min5yearsexperience. pattern, in experienced first grading, qualified requires person, Roth Michelle PLANNER o nbs ed toganalytical Strong reqd. bus. skills &Excelproficiency. in Bache- & lor allocation. PerformSKU investment in & targets. turns. segments, inventory margin bus. exp. of maximizing gross analysis for & yrs. Resp. re- plans, inventory/ 5+ / ceipt sales OTB, managing devel. w/ & incl. Duties indiv. planning/allocation. seeks production. Workquickly&effectively Couture EveningwearCo.lookingfora PATTERNMAKER phere, excsal VERY exp’edperson.Pleasantatmos- under pressure.Pleasefaxresumeto Patternmaker/Tailor mns e’ hlrnsclothing children’s & men’s omen’s, rwhop.Ms undergo resume Fax to: (212)931-2109.EOEM/F/D/V Must check. background opps. career growth international with setting an team-oriented and packages, comp/benefits excellent provide We related years luxury a goods wholesalebusiness. high-end the 6 in possess experience serious of must minimum purpose, candidates and managing effective to vision addition through In leadership. quality image high brand wholesale the maintaining budgets and sales with meeting commercial accounts, estate and real agreements include negotiations will Duties wholesale Canada and operations forRTW,shoesandfur. of VP USA Fendi building, maintaining a and of monitoring seeking capable is Wholesale NA Fendi Fax resume:212-245-1511oremail seeks exp’dpatternmaker1stthru Leading sportswearmanufacturer hrcal Assistant Planner Planner/Allocator E-mail: [email protected] VP OFWHOLESALE [email protected] Sand y Patternmaker/Fitter [email protected] Call 212-944-7144 FENDI y @ & great growth potential. (212) 768-3588 y navnae epniiiisinclude Responsibilities advantage. an rvt ae.35yasexperience years extensive Cole, 3-5 produce required. Mustbewillingtotravel. label. Kenneth also private and Diahann for Champion, Carroll We Rowley, licenses collections. Cynthia for optical Developer hold and Prod a sunwear eyewear seeks leading company a Optical, Robinson B product presentations concept and seasonal executing include executing designing materials, menswear and a presentation Responsibilities the seeking designing for is division. assistant manufacturer design Large in Please faxresumeto:(212)971-2277 proficient be must Excel. and ana- skills The excellent lytical forecasts. possess as must well individual and as devel- plans sales, to analyze planner merchandising retail seasonal a op seeking is er manufactur- apparel domestic Leading ieae blt owr eli fast- a in well work computer paced, high-volumeimport dept req’d. to and Ability oriented literate. detail details. to be production experience seeking Must yrs all 2-4 company follow-through with outerwear individual Large Fax Please oriented. computer detail resume to: be & exp., years literate 2-3 delivery. have production Must final woven & to fromdevelopment knitwear of phases v Y player. team a Please EmailresumetoCynthiaat: & needed. self-motivated Excel be and Must Outlook overseas MS essential. with v communication and delivery final production daily to garment order of phases frominitial all in help w workin experience Previous organized. commu- and nication up follow strong have Must Production 1 seeks A co. apparel Mid-town raiigsaoa arcdeliveries. fabric Must havestrongorganizationalskills. seasonal organizing •Production Coordinator ToddWa PROD’N PATMKR$60 STYLIST/DESIGN ASST organized andcomputerskillsamust. PRODUCTION ASSIST Fax resumeandsalaryrequirements: Product Development Fax resumeandsalaryrequirements tdidvda o olwu nall on up follow for individual ated is trimknowledge and Fabric endors. Production Assistant Production Assistant ssatad1Pouto Coordinator. Production 1 and ssistant M Co.seeksorganized&highlymoti- t vresmnfcues(hn)is (China) manufacturers overseas ith Please faxresumeto(212)398-1661 eofr opttv aayada xeln eeispcae Some package. benefits excellent hit an to salary and ability travel required.Manhattanlocation. competitive the with offera trends, We retail individual aesthetic inception and an market the for current target pricepoints. from looking of are meetings knowledge We and with presentation. projects line you through multiple as stage spearheading presentation skills, be computerand outstanding will possess must You time creating include all will oversee lingerie; lines, meetingdeadlines,generatingandmaintainingdepartmentbudget. Responsibilities and or development. manage product dresses, to of skills sportswear, aspects managerial either and a in organizational have currently proven experience must with are years candidate 5 We right of The distribu- chains. Manager. minimum various and Development with Product stores a businesses, department divisions, seeking label including several private channels, with & tion wholesaler licensed manufacturing include multi-faceted which a are We Must have2yrs.exp.bevery requirements to:212-354-2661or and and checkable references. skills hardworking communication and written oral excellent vendors. have be organized, with Must negotiating projectsand forall budgeting sample book, merchandise, production the of maintaining deliveries production placing on and for up following responsible orders, be will or candidate woven The in sportswear. exp knitted yrs quality 3 and of a control oriented understanding with detail strong Coordinator a hire Production to Company wants Apparel owned Private •Production Assistant Product DevelopmentManager COORDINATOR resume withsalaryhistoryand attn: LisaJimenez212-764-4342 All resumesheldinthestrictestconfidence.PleaseE-mailto: mail PRESENTATION PRODUCTION [email protected] Fax resumeto: 212-594-3999 For considerationfaxyour aaycmesrt ihexperience. with commensurate Salary hr@llo y : Relocate Philadelphia 212-683-0437 oremail: [email protected] [email protected] Call212-947-3400 kls edti retdand oriented detail be skills, PLANNER 212-244-3808 y [email protected] dind.com

e- K g , n eeispcaeicuiga including package benefits and Production Immed. Production salary including resumes histor fax consideration, please immediate For plan. 401(k) W Link Retail also helpful. Prior Wal-Mart plus. with a experience experience AS400 must, literate a Computer skills. communications w Coordinator children’ w highly Production a w and seeks motivated company women’s accessories Leading attrac- years. woven 5 Min. & tive salar exp. Q/C knitwear & prod’n Thorough Shanghai w/our office. communicate to skills indiv. seeks w importer contemp. Est’d. follow-up to w individual Women’ oriented detail Label Blouse import/mfrseeksexperienced, Private Established exp. yrs require- salary 3 and w/ ments to212-730-5845attn:Bernice. resume asst fax production Please look- for company ing import apparel Unisex fax Pease train. will resume andsalaryrequirementsto: orders, but experience on files, preferred Work maintain Word. literate, schedules, and P.C. Excel working, MS hard Detail oriented, o Requirements; dept to mgr. Reporting import production company. the garment in major work to Clerical salary benefits, work Major computer commensurate withexp.FAXresume: multi handle to tasks. heavy able and (Excel/Word), construction/lab under- garment testing, production faxes, of E-mails/ standing worldwide daily tracking, include: ties atti- Responsibili- teamplayer. de- great oriented, skills, tail w/ communication strong person tude, firm energetic sportswear seeks women’s public Busy optrsil ut i r exp. yrs 5 Min and must. in women’sblouse. a exp. skills planning computer production accts. key Strong with communication of level oss xeln rte n verbal and written Team and excellent a organized be possess oriented, must detail candidate Player, ideal The and details regard- order carious otherfollow-upissues. be- sales depts. and liaison sales artwork ing a and as design tween act vendors, overseas Responsibilities environment. paced Production Coordinato PRODUCTION ASST. Production Coordinator Production Coordinator PRODUCTION ASST spro rai’,amn computer & admin, organiz’l, /superior t l hsso rdcin High production. of phases all ith otrvsi nuba n fast and with communication upbeat daily include an ill in experience thrives years 2 of ho minimum a ith fe necletcompensation excellent an offer e owr oyo orresume your of Please withsalary historyto: copy a package. forward benefits and compensation a Competitive brands must. luxury with Experience JIL SANDER ASST /CLERICAL Jil SanderAmerica,Inc. *Sales AreaMgr Lisa Jimenezat212-764-4342 [email protected] y Fax: (212)447-9696 New York,NY10022 Ref: Retail,ShopNY Fax 212-328-1230oremail: PRODUCTION *Ladies Sales andrequirementsto:212-842-3217 11 East57thStreet Fox y 212-556-5303 DOMESTIC /benefits. Fax: Associate _ IMPORT [email protected] OPENINGS AND 212-704-0232 r s f s aaeeteprec na in environment. with fashion experience someone contemporary for Management looking boutique require- salary with positions. ments to: resumes above the Email for resumes level patternmaking. flat Please faxresumeonl & draping expe- years rience 5 Minimum patternmaker. es reprec pl.Fxre- Fax apply. experience at yr with sume to:732-432-5410attn:RC. 1 candidates least in Only proficiency to have excel/word. Must merchandisers positions. fill detail-oriented motivated, highly two seeking: mfg Major i.23ys x.rqd ra Oppty. Great req’d. day-to-day exp. Send resume&salaryreq.to: yrs. 2-3 travel. for Min. Limited manage communication. Responsible client problem deliveries, materials, solve. to track seeks of fabric, bill order Create manufacturer individual process. prod. label hands-on Private v A W a for looking w is company apparel Major W years 5 MINIMUM exp. Faxresumeto: must. a exp. and import background fabric construction, Knowledge of liaison. & customer/production development product include req’d Duties skills verbal communication/computer Good individual. motivated, oriented highly detail seeks mfr. label Pvt. Fax Please overseas. resume to:212-382-2323 with communi- skills Strong concepts. cation Knowledge & exp. trend years in in 3-5 scourcing Min. seeks denim. Co. Apparel Junior W woven and knit in w Experienced vnn or.Bnft,incentives, No Benefits, and competitivesalary.Fax resumeto: Village. hours. evening Westchester downtown hnie utpse creative posses Must chandise. uthv xeln hn manner phone excellent calls. ordering and frontdeskappearance. have telephone duties. routing Must administrative include and supplies day Responsibilities to day Strong and Island salary literate. Excellent benefits. FaxResumetoAttn:Marie Long company. based skills. communication Computer PRODUCTION MANAGE Product/Sales Development RETAIL MANAGER/SALES Production/Sourcing FASHION NETWORK201-503-1060/Fax1070 sa kls oae ncharming in Located skills. isual Must befluentinKorean&English iiyt el aaesaf n mer- and staff, manage sell, to bility Production Patternmaker l raie niiult manage to individual organized ell sportswear. girl’s and men’s, omen’s, Retail Coordinators r otmoaywomens contemporary a are e Manager/Director accepting are e production through 1st seek e years exp. 3 Min have skills. & communication good organized highly be Must uthv ealik O and POL RetailLink, have Must te tr ae nlssexperience analysis sales store other player, team exp, hands-on skills. strong communication verbal accurate and has Must becomputerliterate.Knowledgeofexcelspreadsheetsrequired. written excellent maintaining who a possess and are someone organized for We delivery; for offices. for prices overseas opening on-time with looking fabric communication immediate best daily insuring and negotiating correspondence an and while sourcing person has for This production exp. responsible Group related be yrs 5 will Amerex min with of Coordinator Production/Sourcing division A Email resumew/salaryrequirements: CUSTOMER SERVICE ECKO UNLIMITED Q/C-KOREA $75K [email protected] Publ RETAIL ANALYST/ Please faxresume(732)499-8529oremail:[email protected] Excellent workenvironment RECEPTIONIST Mens sleepweardivisionof Fax resumeto212-239-2766 SENIOR P SENIOR Publicity Agent the KellwoodCo.seeksa j & NJ/DC/PhillyRegions ferrara@ferraramf Patternmaker Amerex Groupoffersexcellentbenefitspackageand 914-723-0626 JR. DENIM Production hr@verawan Greater Boston Great Stuff Retail Analyst. ic Relations/ 631-549-5240 + benefits. EOE. 212-564-6791 y an excitingworkenvironment. : 212-302-3482 g RODUCTION COORDINATOR .com. EOE g .com . R . op i.Fxrsm o Squeeze to: gmts. resume Fax pre/production Jeans Attn:Foula212-382-3047 lit. measure Comp. To for furtherconsideration.EOEM/F New SSA, salary Dept. Floor, with 8th Broadway, resume to: history Send comprehensive benefits. & salaries competitive ae upr nls ih58yrs. interface 5-8 to experience with support Analyst sales Support Sales nweg falapcso production of samples, aspects knowledge, proto all all of knowledge on construction comments issue garment addt uthv togspec strong have must Candidate w Entry levelpositionavailabletowork / tc epnee norMadison our in needed A help stock F/T yrs. 3-4 experience. Pleasefaxresumeto: Min. a opening! sketching Immediate flat plus. skills, computer factories. Good overseas with communicate & W Y W w A exp’d seeks Sel team. sales imp assist starter w/goodcomputerskills. to individuals Outerwear taste/e presentations/rollouts lay- so product have for Must out Resp exp. ing fashion skills. yrs a follow-thru 1-2 exclnt for w/ seeking grad school co. watch Est’d fa Pls. Korean. in resume forimmediateconsiderationto fluent and computer literate be must relate Candidate or industry. same in experience yrs. Three be teamplayer w should a maintain oriented, Person detail and organized, reports. contact, orders order all customer sales on heavy follow-up force, and detail mill sales between Liaison seeks sportswear department. for company Assistant Sales oriented textile Major must. a literacy computer Fax resumeto: with communication skills Requires & time. organizational in strong advancement sales with in possibilities clerical Responsibilities largely staff. sales are our a assist individual exp’d. to seeks & mfr. capable motivated, sportswear ladies’ Est’d. [email protected]. ealeprec eurd Email required. basis. experience resumes withsalaryrequirements to: daily a Retail on duties housekeeping Excellent computerskillsnecessary. and havegoodcommunicationskills. ing accounts.Mustbedetailoriented ue klsi od xe n Wal- and Excel Word, in Mart RetailLinkrequired. must com- skills & puter Candidate skills analytical production. strong replenish- opera- possess & retail reports, of & tions sales knowledge and retail allocations ments, of creation managing analysis compliance, & and cus- service inventory, tomer & sales of analysis daily include: will Responsibilities accounts. Sales SupportAnalyst SALES ASSISTANT Sales Asst/Merchandiser Sales &ProductionAssistant Home fashionexp.FarEastfactories. r,N 01 rEmi eueto: resume E-mail or 10018 NY ork, eu ao.Wl loperform also Will Salon. venue ith AccountExecutiveonmaintain- t u ao rvt ae retail label private major our ith skills. communication excellent ith SPEC TECHASST/ENTRYLEVEL e willonlycontactthosecandidates with environment unique a offer e tive salary&benefitspkg. Competi- computerliterate. & market fabric of knowledge mer- w/ sales seasoned chant a maintain be Must & growth. products for price new negotiate source, de- to velop, offices oversea & buyers, suppliers retail w/ interaction quires re- of position one This ourmajorclients. for of area charge sportswear take ladies to indiv’l or- & ganized articulate motivated, Highly SALES ASSISTANT ao pae opn sseiga seeking is company apparel major Merchandising Manager Spec Technician uthv togmerchandiser’ strong a have must Allen *JustMgmt.*800-544-5878 Sales Assistant Please faxresume&salary y Fax resumeto212-239-2766 history to:212-239-1260 e. Benefits.Faxresume:212-947-7601 Fax resume:212-302-5020 hr@verawan Diane @(212)391-1049 Sourcing Mgr.to$130 Sto [email protected] aqe oe,Ic 1411 Inc. Moret, Jacques (212) 921-5064 KNITWEAR ck Clerk 212-921-9038 g .com. EOE d x f s / SOURCING MENS...... upto85K SALES ASST/ACCTEXEC...... 30-75K aedrdalns ealoine w oriented Maintain detail patternmaking deadlines, construction. calendar of garment and knowledge depth exp technical yrs 5+ with professional deo irsf xe,&Illustrator. & Excel, Microsoft Good workingenvironment. Knowl- designers development. of assist line and of edge phases all factories in communi- with measuring, cate and specs, grading Required: do write and to company. ability Denimbottomexp, childrenswear paced For fast a handle to in able tasks be environment. FAXresume: communication Must multiple req. our sel Strong & skills join organized enthusiastic, well motivated. to be oriented, Should detail Designer team. design Technical for looking co. a mfg. sportswear Ladies have Must salary Excellent and benefitspackage. skills. systems. analytical and good abilities employees communication support current excellent and train on background help industry to apparel with ual individ- seeks company Manufacturing odcmuiainsil.Interface skills. w communication good W w W designer technical w seeks experienced house yrs design 2-3 women’s base NY full- tech seeks time importer sweater High-end computer and a must.Fax/E-mailresumetoJFat: grading patternmaking, of individua is organized w highly company for label looking private Established x.i FF in exp. o osdrto,pes fax/send please consideration, resume, includingsalaryhistoryto: package. benefits For and compensation & Missy for model live on aesthetics overseas. w/ Exp. must. Great opportunityfortherightperson. a computer grading & making, pattern of Knowledge with oriented. Knowledge detail skills. be follow-up facto- excellent Must to reports ries. detailed com- municating 5 and meas- evaluation fit to specs, garments, uring 3 issuing experience have years must candidate Qualified omng l ehia sus fittings, issues, grading, technical all manage to required. ings, repeatsetc.andCADU4iaartists. VISUAL MERCHANDISERS.....40-80K TECHNICAL DESIGNE TECHNICAL DESIGNE TECHNICAL DESIGNE Technical/Assistant Designer 212-302-1856 /office@ Technical DesignAssociate FULL FASHIONSWEATERS Seeks exp’dpaintingartistsforcolor- Call 212-986-7329orFax212-986-7708 SUPPORT/TRAINER NEWPORT NEWS,INC. t uesadVnos Excellent Vendors. and Buyers ith and balance fit, evaluate to ability ith skills communication effective ith skills. communication excellent ith Fax resume:Jennifer(212)967-6004 mnssye o u ntae.In area. Knit our for styles omen’s seeks co catalog specialty omen’s Attn: HR/EG.Fax(212)916-8320or cel proficient. strong communicationskills/ex- work inamultitaskenvironment/ math knowledge.Mustbeableto WANTED: Collegegradwithretail able tohandlepressure. & Fast pacedenvironment/mustbe ourteam. skills join to computerliterate communication with strong person Articulate WANTED: ngretslsadb bilingual be in English&Chinese. and experience sales garment years in 1-2 Representative. have Must Sales a needs full-time company Inc.) York, (Branch New Hongdou China in firm manufacturing and design apparel dollarinternationalMulti-million Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 visit usatwww.newport-news.com 711 3rdAve,4thFl,NY,NY10017 Excellent compensationpackage e-mail: [email protected] Fax resume/salar TECH. DESIGNER or fax:011-86-510-8352766 "THINK VISUAL" Please e-mailyourresume to TEXTILE SERVICESTUDIO Fax resumeto:212-840-1451 ASSISTANT TOSALESMGR CUSTOMER SERVICE [email protected] Temp andPermPositions FAX RESUMETOVP: Team-orientedatmosphere! t.McootOfc Outlook & Office Microsoft etc. SHARAGANO 212-556-5303 SALES REP "ON THEMARKS" einrw iiu years 2 minimum w/ designer SYSTEMS Call 212391-2370 waes olwtimelines Follow sweaters. 212-302-2319 y y ellowriverinc.com : 212-387-8343 : . R R R f l / Obituary 19 Perry Ellis Net Up 191.8%, WWD, Boosted by Jantzen Brand May Co.’s Irwin Zazulia, 61 WEDNESDAY NEW YORK — Irwin Zazulia, a 28-year veteran of

NEW YORK — Swim trunks look balance sheet. We remained fo- May Department Stores Co. who spent 20 years as , good on Perry Ellis International cused on building our company president and chief executive of May’s MARCH Inc. and are convinced that the in- Washington D.C.-based Hecht’s division, died The Miami-based firm, with dustry will come to be increas- Tuesday morning of cardiac arrest, the company help from the recently added ingly consolidated.” said. He was 61. 12, Jantzen swimwear business ac- PEI bought Jantzen from VF He was credited with catapulting Hecht’s quired from VF Corp., dramati- Corp. in March 2002, and this from a local chain to a regional retail force, 2003 cally improved its fourth-quarter spring launched Jantzen beach growing it to 74 stores from 21 and managing four financial metrics. sandals through a licensee, as complex mergers involving integrating Net income for the period well as a Jantzen towel program Thalhimers, Miller & Rhoades, Wanamakers and ended Jan. 31 shot up 191.8 per- to be sold exclusively at May Strawbridge’s into Hecht’s. When he retired in cent to $2.8 million, or 41 cents a Department Stores Co. The firm 2000, Hecht’s annual sales were $2.5 billion. The diluted share. This compared also plans to develop the name division, now called Hecht’s/Strawbridge’s, oper- with year-ago earnings of $954,000, into a resort, casual-lifestyle ap- ates 80 stores in Washington, Maryland, Virginia, or 15 cents a share. An account- parel brand, which would com- North Carolina, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, ing change dragged down year- plement the swimwear line and Delaware and Tennessee. ago profits by $648,000, or 10 hit stores in 2005. May Co. said Zazulia was “a talented teacher cents a share. Last month, as reported, PEI and trainer of top executives,” with 10 executives Sales for the three months agreed to buy Salant, the largest under his tutelage rising to president or chairman raced ahead 45.4 percent to licensee of PEI branded appar- of other May divisions. $86.6 million from $59.5 million el, for $91 million in cash and Zazulia began his retailing career in the train- a year ago. stock. Once consummated, the ing program at Stern Brothers in New York in the Chairman and chief executive acquisition will give PEI greater late Sixties, joined Hecht’s as a divisional mer- George Feldenkreis, in a state- control of the Perry Ellis brand, chandise manager of ready-to-wear in 1971, rose ment, described the year as a as well as ownership of Axis and steadily up the merchandising ranks, to vice pres- “landmark” for the company. “It Tricots St. Raphael. The deal is ident and general merchandise manager for all is hallmarked by the continued expected to close by mid-June. apparel and accessories; executive vice president for eight years and was a strong advocate of its strengthening of the Perry Ellis For the year, earnings ad- for all merchandising, then vice chairman. In drug and alcohol rehabilitation programs. In brand; our integration and exe- vanced 63.4 percent to $10.8 mil- 1980, he was appointed president and ceo. 1998, he was honored as “man of the year” by cution of the Jantzen business, lion, or $1.65 cents a diluted Zazulia was involved in many local and nation- Second Genesis. and the agreement to acquire share, from $6.6 million, or $1.01, al charities and was appointed to the board of di- He is survived by his wife of 24 years, Judy; his Salant Corp. to solidify our oper- in 2001. Sales rose 10 percent to rectors of the Federal Reserve Bank of Richmond four children, including two from a previous mar- ating platform. $305.8 million from $278 million in 1999. He was a member of the board’s commit- riage; three grandchildren, and a brother, Arnold. “Not only have we grown due the preceding year. tee on human resources and served on the re- Services will be held Thursday at 1 p.m. at primarily to the Jantzen acquisi- This year, PEI is looking for search, public affairs and community affairs com- Taylor Funeral Home, Duke of Gloucester Street, tion during the past year, but we earnings of about $2.60 a share. mittee. Among his charitable efforts, he served Annapolis, Md. have significantly improved our — Evan Clark on the Second Genesis Corporate advisory board — David Moin

Licensed Product Sales SALES / ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE HOSIERY Designer RTW market with knowledge Sales Executive Excellent opportunity available in in retail math. Degree in marketing / Surf and SwimCo. seeks senior sales- Sales Executive licensed product division of major gift business development. Send cover person with management potential. /accessory company. Seeking an ag- letter and resume to: Exciting opportunity for experienced New York City based dynamic, gressive and highly motivated sales Box#M 1040 individual with extensive contacts Excellent opportunities to join today’s contemporary leader enthusiastic, Department pro to join our team. Qualified candi- c/o Fairchild Publications who can generate immediate sales and store/Specialty chain focused dates will have 3+ years of experience 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl deliver national accounts. We offer a SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - APPAREL with licensed product. Excellent growth New York, NY 10001 competitive salary and benefits pack- professional. Strong people opportunity. Please fax resume to attn: age. Email resume and salary history SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - ACCESSORIES skills, keen sense of fashion, Mark 212-779-0964 SALES ASSISTANT to: [email protected] tenacious follow-up required. NYC based Special Occasion Garments Travel approx. 30%. Knowl- Manufacturer seeks individual who SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - PRIVATE LABEL LOOK OUT must be computer proficient in Salesperson edge of women’s hosiery a New junior sweater division seeks key Excel, Outlook, and Word. Excellent Needed for missy sportswear import Please fax resume indicating position of interest to: plus. Please email resume: account sales in N.Y. showroomor verbal & written communication co. Fax your resume 212-840-3835. 212-764-6912 attn: President of Sales [email protected] regional offices. MAJORS ONLY. Fax skills. Motivated and detail oriented resume to: 212-391-4431 teamplayer and hard worker. Customer service, order execution, follow up, SALES organizational skills needed. Able to Z CAVARICCI GIRLS work independently and multi tasks. Exciting opportunity for well connected JNCO RAMPAGE Accessories Sales Menswear Co. Must have strong skills in selling to department store and specialty store Looking for a Sales Manager Sales Fantastic opportunity to join a reputable Seeking aggressive, hard working sales Major Dept Stores & Catalogs. Sales Pro. Must have extensive experi- to handle major accounts. women’s & junior’s accessory manufac- individual for young men’s area. Must Please fax your resume with ence & knowledge of the branded denim We are looking for a Salesper- turer. Seeking an Account Executive have at least 10 yrs. exp. selling to dept salary history to 212-840-2272 market. Great working environment Minimum 3 years experience son. Minimum 3 years experi- to manage key accounts. Qualified & specialty stores. Excellent product with good benefits. Salary commensu- with mid-tier & dept.store candidates will have 3+ years experience w/excellent opportunity. Please Fax re- Sales Asst./Order Entry rate with exp/ability. Fax resume to: ence in girls market. Traveling NY based sweater company seeks a experience. Must have good in the Fashion Jewelry/Accessory In- sume to: 212-268-3963 (212) 967-6004 attn. Joe to accounts. Aggressive Individu- dustry, possess strong analytical back- high energy, detail oriented individual people skills. Salary commen- als We want you!!!! Please fax ground and relationships with national to work in a great atmosphere while surate upon experience. account base. Please fax resume to: MENSWEAR CO. following up with customers on sales Showroom Sales resume to: 212-967-1357 212-779-0964 Attn: Suzanne Seeks Asst. Sales Exec. Must have show- orders. Must be computer literate. Leading missy moderate blouse company Please fax resumes to room/ private label exp. hardworking Please fax resume to (212) 268-8320 seeks individual with 1-5 years experi- 212-967-1357 Attn: Mark J. and articulate. Must be computer liter- ence. Highly motivated person with Benun. Confidentiality guranteed. ALEXIA ADMOR ate. Please fax 212-268-3963 Sales Executive department store, catalog and/or spe- Established women’s sweater line seek- cialty store experience. DRESS SALES Fax resume/salary to (212) 382-1522 NY based contemporary dress co. ing energetic, motivated, go-getter to seeks "sales genius" for a "no brainer" Production Coordinator work in New York showroom. Must JNCO RAMPAGE to expand our major chain & Dept. Dress and sportswear co. requires prod have better Specialty and Dept. store Sweater Sales store base. Fax resume (212) 971-9236 coord w/ minimum 3 years exp. Strong experience. Private label exp. a plus. Sweater sales pro for junior & missy. Must Sales Looking for Sales Manager computer skills. AS400 and Import traveling required. Great opportunity have current following. Only candidates background a must. Costing exp a for right person! Please fax resume to: with good existing relationships need Looking for strong salesper- for Rampage Girls. Minimum FABRIC SALES plus. (212) 268-8320 apply. Fax resume 718-456-2721. son. Minimum 3-5 years 3 -5 years experience. Better Top import/domestic converter with large Send resume w/ salary requirements sales experience. Must be mid-tier and dept. stores. stock inventory seeks experienced ener- to: [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE Great Opportunity. Traveling getic pro to call on missy, junior, men’s & fax 212-221-4245 Hip Soho Accessories Co is seeking a organized, with good people kid’s markets. Team player a must. EEO No Agencies bright, motivated indiv with excellent skills. Please fax resumes to: to accounts is a must. Please Fax resume 212-391-2460 RETAIL communication skills & lots of energy! 212-967-1357 fax resume to:212-967-1357 Resp include reaching/prospecting new GREAT OPPORTUNITY! Madison Avenue customers, maintaing existing customer Est’dsprtswr co seeks salesperson w/ fol- base & acting as overall East Coast lowing in specialty chain, major & dept Boutique Sales Rep. Must be highly organized stores. Growth oppty. Fax 212-768-3021. and be able to work under pressure in Has an immediate position available for ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** a qualified salesperson. Salary + com- a young & creative environment. Home and Gift Sales Minimum 2 years sales exp necessary. Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- mission, clothing allowance and great TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? Seeking an aggressive, highly motivated benefits! Fax resume to: 212-765-1394 Email: [email protected] sales pro to join our home and gift sales **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.** team. Must have analytical, financial Sales Executive & computer skills plus the ability to Manufacturer and Importer of Junior, think strategically and execute sales Missy, Large size sportswear seeks a plans. Qualified candidates will have Sales Account Executive high energy self-motivated team player 3+ years experience in the Home/Gift Custo Barcelona is seeking a Sales to work w/ major accounts nationwide. Industry. Excellent growth opportunity. Account Executive for Men’s/Women’s Must have at least 5 years experience Very well connected exec. seeks to help Please fax resume to attn. Mark @ Northeast and Midwest states. Candi- and established contacts. drive est’d accessory/apparel Co. to new (212) 779-0964 date must be highly organized, moti- Please fax resume to (212) 575-5311 plateaus. Successful, achiever, a vated, possess excellent communica- "brand builder", innovator, team player. tion skills and must have at least SALESPERSON Increased major well known accessory Ladies’/Missy/Jr. Sportswear Mfr. seeks 3 years experience. Travel required - Men’s full fashion sweater maker in Co. sales from zero to half billion $$. Sales Pro for New York Showroom. competitive, negotiable salary. Please need of experienced salesperson with Industry awards/articles in WWD/trade Must have strong dept. & chain store email resumes to: [email protected] established customers. mags. Refs., CEO’s, Pres’., GMM’s of contacts. Fax resume to: 201-330-0002 or fax to: 212-219-3566. Please fax resume to: 212-921-1876 USA MAJORS. Call (516) 510-7331 03. 0 2 Incorporated, otton C

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Cotton won’t be hard to find at the 2003 Material World Show.

With a 60% market share and a 75% Seal of Cotton awareness level, cotton is just about everywhere you look. At the 2003 Material World Show, look for exhibitors displaying the Seal of Cotton. Visit us at booths 709 and 711 to find out about sourcing, new fabric and fashion development or becoming a cotton trademark licensee. Visit our website at www.cottoninc.com. Cotton. The Fabric of Our Lives.®