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FOOD & DRINK SHIFTING SANDS Middle Eastern cuisine is getting a makeover as traditional ingredients are blended with international techniques. Jenny Johnson meets the chefs leading the movement in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Photographs by Kate Lewis and Danny Allison ntil quite recently, a mention An international sensibility has certainly have tried in the past.” Jasmine Bandali, of Middle Eastern food contributed to the popularity of Qbara (www. editor of Gourmet magazine in Dubai conjured up images of qbara.ae) in Dubai’s Wafi, thanks to its then concurs. “Dishes have been adapted family-style meals at home chef Colin Clague, who hails from the Isle of to appeal to international tastes, while Uor that no-fuss shawarma stall down the Man. “I came to the Middle East in 1999 and ancient spices like sumac and freekeh are street that stays open late. But lately, am very comfortable with the food,” says enjoying a renaissance.” everyone’s talking about the growing Clague, who previously worked at Zuma, The THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS trend of fine-dining fare from the region. Ivy and the Burj Al Arab. “The idea was to The farm-to-table movement that Adding modern twists to traditional take regional dishes that everyone knows— reached its zenith in America a couple of dishes, using quality local ingredients years ago has been spreading globally— and investing in artistic presentation, a and some Middle Eastern chefs are new breed of Middle Eastern chefs are looking to adapt it as much as is feasible stepping up to the gourmet plate. given the climate and geographical EAST MEETS WEST conditions. Says Rowe, “I use around Nouvelle regional cuisine is all about 65 percent locally sourced produce and respecting traditions while elevating organic ingredients wherever possible. My them through new techniques and chicken comes from a farm in Al Ain, and flavour combinations. Australian- the lamb is also local. All my fish products born Greg Malouf, who retained a are from Jumeirah Fishing Harbour so, Michelin star for his Lebanese cuisine my fish cakes are made from local sherri at Petersham Nurseries Café (www. and sea bass from Fujairah. My cheese petershamnurseries.com) in London and is locally sourced and I only use camel’s has opened haute Lebanese restaurant milk.” She admits it’s hard to sustain this Clé Dubai (www.cle-dubai.com) in Dubai as the produce isn’t consistent, so it’s not International Financial Centre, says just about finding the best farmers and diners at Clé will find new interpretations suppliers and working closely with them of familiar dishes. “Dumplings might be but also about the willingness to adapt stuffed with goat’s meat, the yoghurt the menu based on what’s available. might be mixed with fresh broad beans and peas and there might be a drizzle of like falafel and fattoush—and use the same green harissa.” ingredients, but deconstruct them and put Opened in Dubai in early 2015, Omnia them together in a different way.” by Silvena (+971 4 552 0129) is run by Co-host of the Middle East version of Turkish-Bulgarian celebrity chef Silvena Top Chef and culinary consultancy founder, Rowe, who’s cooked for UAE royalty, Joe Barza returned to his roots after Orlando Bloom and One Direction. Her several years in South Africa, aiming to take more casual restaurant Omnia Gourmet Lebanese food a step further. “I like to be (www.omniagourmet.co) in the Jumeirah daring with dishes like raw fish kibbeh. I Fishing Harbour has a loyal following. “I marinate the tuna with shawarma spices for don’t use fat or salt in my cooking and a local twist.” my desserts are sugar-free, gluten-free, Stacie Overton Johnson, food writer at dairy-free, Paleo and vegan. Emirati food The National, says, “Middle Eastern chefs is traditionally seen as heavy, salty and recognise the need to stay relevant and oily; I’m trying to change that. We live in adapt to the public they’re serving. Diners CHRISTOPHER LIST CHRISTOPHER a country that has problems with obesity today are more discerning than ever before. : and diabetes so I am providing healthy They travel more, they know more, and food and hope others will follow suit.” they’re willing to try things they might not PHOTOGRAPH 98 Condé Nast Traveller Dec-Jan 2015-16 FOOD & DRINK “Nouvelle regional cuisine is all about respecting traditions while elevating them through new techniques” Joe Barza, co-host of the Middle East’s Top Chef and leader in the reinvention of Lebanese food. Previous page from top: Barza’s version of freekeh on a bed of cucumber; Jumeirah Beach in Dubai Dec-Jan 2015-16 Condé Nast Traveller 99 FOOD & DRINK Over in Lebanon, Barza heads up the cuisine due to the strong presence of eaten a mandi sitting on the floor of a tent?” catering team at the Bioland farm (www. Lebanese and Syrian communities. “Globally she asks. “How many have watched an Iraqi bioland-lb.com) in Batroun, which produces in some of the bigger cities, there’s a touch masgouf being cooked over flames? Or a its own organic local ingredients, and has a of something Middle Eastern on the menu, man bake pebble bread in the traditional restaurant and farm shop on site. The farm whether it’s harissa or preserved lemons or Iranian way? Diners are becoming aware also hosts school trips to educate children cous cous,” says Malouf. and are seeking out rarer dishes.” about organic produce. The mindset of tourists coming into the NEW WAVE THE WHOLE TAMALE region is also changing, according to Arva Chef Ali Salem Edbowa is the executive The age of Twitter and Instagram threw Ahmed, who conducts authentic culinary chef at fine-dining Emirati restaurantMezlai up a new challenge to chefs everywhere: tours at Frying Pan Adventures (www. (www.kempinski.com) at Emirates Palace with diners obsessively photographing fryingpanadventures.com) in Dubai, with in Abu Dhabi, but it took him a decade to and publicising what they are eating, visual diners becoming more accepting of new pursue cooking full-time as it was seen as appeal came to the fore. Says Overton Johnson, “Not only does your food need “How many people have watched an Iraqi masgouf to taste great, it needs to look great, too. Middle Eastern chefs are recognising the being cooked over flames? Or a man bake pebble importance of that.” bread in the traditional Iranian way?” S “Even a humble falafel or some labneh or kibbeh can be elevated to a better dishes that deepen their appreciation of menial labour among local society. When /CORBI A P standing with gorgeous crockery and local cuisine. “The people who join our food he first bought a restaurant, he had to hide O beautiful produce,” says Malouf. “I look into trails are always excited to experiment with the fact that he also worked in the kitchen F/S R A the traditions of the dishes and try to add the flavours of preserved Jordanian yoghurt from his friends and family, and would P O a couple more layers and make them look or buy an ingredient like pomegranate change back into his regular clothes before more architectural.” molasses so they can incorporate it into leaving each evening. “I would go home in ELLINI/S GLOBAL APPEAL dishes back home,” she says. Devina the dishdasha and put on perfume so no one R A clear sign of Middle Eastern food’s Divecha, senior editor, Hospitality Group knew I was working in the kitchen.” Now changing stripes is that it is weaving its at ITP Publishing Group, finds visitors are MAURIZIO MAURIZIO Clockwise from left: Greg Malouf, who is : way on to more sophisticated tables in seeking out experiences and flavours, H experimenting with Lebanese fare at Clé international markets. beyond the well-known shawarma and Dubai; Mughrbia scallops at Mezlai; Ali GRAP O Melbourne, where Malouf grew up, was hummus. “These dishes have been fairly Salem Edbowa of Mezlai; the Grand T HO one of the early adopters of Middle Eastern well marketed, but how many people have Mosque in Abu Dhabi P 100 Condé Nast Traveller Dec-Jan 2015-16 FOOD & DRINK Colin Clague, formerly of Qbara. Left, from top: a wall at Qbara; Sayadieh of black cod with garlic, onions and spices at Qbara; Jumeirah Fishing Harbour in Dubai he is an award-winning chef who has had than six languages, and has raised the dates, and they are loaded with superfoods.” three cooking shows on television and hopes profile of regional food enormously. Her TV After developing a range of Middle Eastern to introduce Emirati cuisine to the world. presence has also helped: she has been a spices while working in Melbourne, Malouf Barza faced similar obstacles in Lebanon. major culinary figure on the UK’s Saturday is set to launch them in Dubai so that people “In the Arab world, the cook was always the Kitchen alongside James Martin and This can recreate his dishes at home. “I will have maid in the house, but with shows like Top Morning, and was a judge on America’s Time a little retail unit at Clé, where I will sell my Chef we have changed this perception and Machine Chefs. Malouf’s cookbooks, which spice blends and tagines that capture the Middle Eastern chefs are respected now.” have a large and loyal global following, range flavours and aromas of the region.” This shift in attitude has helped Middle from classic recipe books to travelogues FLASH FORWARD Eastern chefs get to the point they have exploring the region and its cuisine, from Iran With global markets importing Middle now, where they innovate along with the and Lebanon to Syria.

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