The mark of industry inspiration & information June 2019

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Diamond It's a love thing Report Market trends 2019 Better Business We give you the tools

The National Association of Jewellers June 2019 Opinion 3 from The Editor

therapy of the luxury kind. No doubt the Duchess of Sussex has an embarrassment of -set push presents, and she doesn’t need another engagement , but if Harry needs some inspiration for an eternity ring perhaps, our Diamond Jewellery feature (p30) might be useful. (While we’re celebrating, let’s wish Happy Birthday to the brilliant cut, 100 years old this year.)

Never mind Meghan, who could deny the Duke a congratulatory moment of self-indulgence – how about a new watch? Research shows that sales of top-end timepieces are sustaining the overall market, and while challenges exist, the watch sector as a whole is a strong one. Check out our report on the trends, new models and key influences on page 14.

Industry influences have played their part in the evolution of the SheŠeld Assay OŠce. We think it’s been hiding its light, so I had to pay a visit and discover how the great team at this particular Assay y the time you read this it will almost be summer – OŠce is equipping itself to adapt to the demands of an ever-shifting generally considered to be the silly season when it trade (p56). Meanwhile, a potentially disappearing craft – enamelling comes to news. However, even a cursory glance at – is enjoying reinvigoration and a renaissance. Acquaint yourself this issue’s contents tell a di£erent story… there’s so with this fascinating art on page 52. B much going on I hardly know where to start! Elsewhere in the June issue: how to do ‘Better Business’, recent “An exclusive range of bene ts and improved insurance cover If you happen to be reading this having just attended the NAJ’s SaferGems triumphs, a preview of the learning fest that is AGM then you’ll be aware that one of the Association’s lead stories is for NAJ Members” Loughborough, the latest KickStarters, what went on at Fair Luxury, the evolution of the NAJ’s National Committee and the steps being the re-vamped V&A jewellery gallery, award-winning jewellery taken to help members become ‘fit for the future’. We also revealed designs… All life is here – happy reading! the latest piece in our regalia – the Chair’s Pin. You can read about INCREASED IMPROVED DISCOUNTS both in detail in our opening pages. Also long-anticipated, was last month’s arrival of Archie Harrison Revenue Opportunities Insurance Cover On Products & Services Mountbatten-Windsor (bless his cashmere socks). Got to love a royal baby story, especially if it prompts people to indulge in a little retail Belinda Morris, Editor Plus Many Additional Benefits... Contact TH March or the NAJ to find out more! pg pg pg www.thmarch.co.uk/NAJ 14 30 52

“…brands operating in this [younger] market need to “… retailers have a responsibility to educate sta£ and “…the new mission – to connect, inspire, support and build brand appeal, to position themselves for today’s consumers to understand the di£erent aspects that make promote the professional enamelling community – is multi-channel customer…” up a diamond’s overall look…” paying o£…” @THMarchBiz

The Jeweller AD - MAR 2019.indd 1 08/03/2019 08:36 NAJ News 5

The National Association of Jewellers

Inside this Issue The National Association of Jewellers 10 Vyse Street June 2019 Birmingham B18 6LT 0121 237 1110 www.naj.co.uk

Editor: Belinda Morris NEWS EVENTS & SHOWS [email protected]

08 NAJ News 38 Conference 2019 Advertising sales: [email protected] Taking steps to be ‘fit for the future’ Be there… or be sorry you missed it! pg 0121 237 1110

10 NAJ News 48 Responsible Sourcing NAJ Awards 2019 – the categories Reporting from the Fair Luxury conference in Edinburgh 46 Designed & produced by: Senior Internet 12 NAJ News 60 British Craft Trade Fair www.senior.co.uk Flying the Flag and FT at Cooksongold Winning designs from the Harrogate trade fair 0115 838 9555 BUSINESS ADVICE

37 Industry News Printed by: Introducing KickStarters 2019 24 Education HPA Print Ltd www.hpaprint.co.uk Targeting professional progression 44 Industry News pg 07525 011 589 IJL talks, Fuller Foundation, FT Gold and more 28 Insurance 59 Industry News 60 TH March on the value of valuations Contributory writers: David Brough, Michael Donaldson, Simon Sheila Fleet and North 40 Book Reviews Forrester, Harriet Kelsall Two beautiful books on the art of enamelling

Front cover image: PROFILE 42 Security Brigitte Adolph We celebrate SaferGems’ success of the past 12 months www.brigitte-adolph.de deutscheCraft: +44 (0) 7403 204 008 52 At the Bench 46 Better Business [email protected] All you need to know about…. enamelling Introducing the NAJ’s Better Business Toolbox

56 Hallmarking The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort 62 Gold Market Report is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not She”eld Assay O”ce is making its mark accept liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The OPINION Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed using vegetable based inks on FSC certified TRENDS paper produced from sustainable sources 03 Editor’s Letter 14 This Time Want a personal copy of ‘The Jeweller’ The watch market examined delivered direct to your inbox? 07 CEO’s Foreword

38 It’s a Love Thing Complete the form at www.naj.co.uk/subscribe or 14 Education Bridal jewellery in the spotlight send an email to [email protected] The latest Bransom stars June 2019 Opinion 7 CEO’s foreword

a good one. But this new deadline means further uncertainty, more non-spending, and a knock-on e£ect on our sector. While exchange rates may help a little, worries over customs regulations and tari£s continue to plague British manufacturers. We will of course monitor the situation and be ready with advice and guidance for members once we know what, if anything, is happening.

On a more upbeat note, our Business Network Congress, one of the most value-for-money events in the calendar is days away. I’d urge every retailer to consider joining JBN as an add-on to membership; it’s well worth every penny. NAJ Awards On the awards front I was delighted to be asked to judge some of the Retail Jeweller Awards, which will be announced in early July – I hope to see you there on the night. Without giving anything away, the standard was really high (I know everyone says this, but it was) and the judges had some very entertaining arguments about which entry was best. As a relative newcomer to the sector (16 months and counting) I was really enthused by some of the innovative ideas Paying Attention retailers are putting into practice. As one judge said: “those willing to adapt to the new reality will still be here, and getting shortlisted, next year”. 2019 It’s strange when what you do gets noticed. The NAJ’s own awards open on 1st July, you can find out more and he NAJ’s Better Business Framework, which launches enter via the Association’s website. We’ll be announcing our winners in June, has already turned heads on a national in early December at the Benevolent Society Ball. Both RJ and the and international scale. I attended the Fair Luxury NAJ’s awards are about you, your team, your shop, your brand… symposium in Edinburgh to give a sneak preview of getting noticed. T where we’re headed with this project (see page 48) and was surprised to get such an overwhelmingly positive response On the consumer-facing side, our aim continues to be “more people Are you doing Which category will Dates for from delegates. Was this a one-o£? Apparently not, because a few buying more jewellery”. Each purchase has a story behind it, and it weeks later at the OECD Forum on responsible mineral supply is vital to echo the process from manufacturing to retail, and from something special? you enter? your diary chains in Paris, our intervention got a lot of interest, with several retail to end-customer. The NAJ’s website is designed to support our organisations contacting us afterwards to ask for details of how we members but also your customers, by giving them advice, guidance Individual/ Team awards 1 July developed our model. We are very pleased to be at the forefront and support to make informed choices on their jewellery purchases. NAJ Awards Made in Britain is another way of telling the story of British Sales Person of the Year Entries open of the development of this project, as it fits so neatly with our new recognise and strategic plan to keep members ‘fit for the future’. On that, we are in manufacturing skills which, we believe, will help bring consumers’ Designer of the Year 14 October the final stages of establishing the new sta£ and committee structure discretionary spend to our sector. I hope your business will get involved and support this vital initiative celebrate the brilliance Workshop Professional of the Year Entries close designed to deliver, and by the time you read this we will almost be Team of the Year there. We’ve said goodbye to some colleagues and welcomed new of your business, the 4 November ones to the team – check out the ‘about’ area of our site to find out more. professionalism of a Organisation awards Shortlist announced work colleague or the Service Provider of the Year From talking to members, the Brexit rollercoaster is still in e£ect. positive impact a team Jewellery and/or Watch Supplier While January was a decent month for many (perhaps compared of the Year 5 December to a terrible Christmas?), February and March were pretty dire. It or group has made to was only when the decision to push the deadline to Halloween was Retailer of the Year Awards Ceremony announced that consumers started dusting o£ their credit cards Simon Forrester CEO your organisation. Innovation of the Year The Benevolent Society Ball and spending money on discretionary purchases; Q2 was generally National Association of Jewellers Corporate Social Responsibility Solihull Initiative of the Year Website of the Year More information Physical Shop Front of the Year Naj.co.uk/awards 8 NAJ News The Jeweller June 2019 NAJ News 9

NAJ Chair, Harriet Kelsall explains how the Association those supplying services to the jewellery community. The NAJ requires a networked is taking steps to make members ‘Fit for the Future’ and governance structure that enables the evolution of the committee structure. representatives from all these areas to work with National Committee colleagues, to drive forward key agendas for NAJ members and supporters. 2019 Gemmology

The NAJ’s motto is ‘fit for the future’. We must champion professionalism, we must Lab Classes O ered I’m Part of This; influence, and we must engage more NATCOM members more often. We must bring our in Birmingham di£erent types of members together for their mutual benefit and we must help I Want to be them develop with their connected supply chain, particularly consumers. This isn’t about standing still and waiting, this is about creating power networks to harness expertise, it’s about pushing as a collective Involved to better understand our market to help make better decisions, and more than ever it’s about being one single voice for the industry, and an active one at that.

We benefit from strong foundations when Education it comes to power networks, such as our existing Committees/Steering Groups for With an increasingly competitive education o£ering IRV, Better Business and Education, as well within the jewellery market, how the NAJ supports career as strong collaborative relationships with progression needs to be considered in order to ensure sister organisations within the jewellery we o£er a stable pathway for the jewellers of tomorrow. sphere. We’re learning from what works well We must set the agenda and work with others to deliver and changing our structure as we evolve, against it. integrate and bolster the existing volunteer formations with two shiny new additional groups targeting industry networking and Networking and Events events, and consumer focus. Colored Stone Grading Diamond Grading Getting members together to share experiences and May 28-30 May 20-24 celebrate excellence is central to the Association’s Collectively, the NAJ’s National Committee strategic intent and also enables the above activities to be Sep 2-4 Jun 3-7 firmly believes the five steering groups communicated to members and supporters. Nov 4-6 Sep 9-13 enable the Association to deliver impact by Sep 16-20 and for the membership, and we hope, have Grading Oct 21-25 fun doing it. Professional and Technical May 31 Oct 28-Nov 1 Standards and IRV (PTSI) Sep 5 Neither I or the National Committee are Gem Identification about to try and set an over-prescriptive Nov 7 Jewellery is about telling a story. The luxury impacting on how the industry contracts, The NAJ needs to ensure that clear guidance and scope for each of the Steering Groups, Oered at GIA products we mine, manufacture, create and and it has never been more important for standards for both individuals and businesses are present, but we do want to encourage colleagues Campus in London serve, form a key symbolic element in the the jewellery industry to collaborate and maintained, and most importantly, followed. story the consumer wants to tell of their come together as a united community. making up the groups to ask questions, life. Our own design stories, how each identify where problems lie and start the piece is made, the people who mine the The first step in this unifying ‘need’ is now ‘metaphorical ball’ rolling themselves. The Consumer Focus precious materials and how they’re formed, being finalised, following the formation of new advisory structure aims to engage all contribute to helping the consumer the National Association of Jewellers in more people more often and to add further Understanding, advising and educating consumers is a Contact us for Information or to Enrol understand, recognise and celebrate their, 2015. Its new brand is being embedded, and credibility and value to our voice and key responsibility of a trade association. This group will or a loved one’s, current chapter. Together existing internal structures and processes collective authority. drive a campaign to understand and influence consumer +44 (0) 20 7813 4321 as an industry, when we integrate our continue to be challenged and refined. The behaviour, both on wanting to buy more jewellery, but also own stories, we create an abiding sense of NAJ is governed by its National Committee, I’ve no doubt that if you want to help drive where from. [email protected] creativity/ belonging/ community amplified which understands that the Association positive change for our industry, being part London.GIA.edu through one single voice. needs to both support AND drive its of the NAJ’s working groups – alongside Better Business members and stakeholders to realise the other passionate jewellers – is where you GIA England 104 Great Russell Street While we continue to be more adventurous potential of jewellery in the UK. need to be. Our industry is jam-packed The existing steering group will soon publish the Better London WC1B 3LA United Kingdom in jewellery manufacture, processes and with creativity, brilliance and inspiration of Business framework, and now needs to consider how to Registered Charity No: 1101116 ultimately selling, the world around us is Our membership encompasses suppliers, which I’m so proud to be a part. When this educate the membership on what a good business looks changing. Buying behaviours, competing designers and manufacturers, through is supported by commercial savviness, the like and prompt it to use the valuable resources within the GIA® is a registered trademark of Gemological Institute of America, Inc. trends and societal shifts can and are to retailers and expert valuers, as well as jewellery industry is a great place to be. NAJ site.

ADT190024_London_Jeweller_V1.indd 1 3/8/19 12:44 PM 10 NAJ News The Jeweller June 2019 NAJ News 11

Calling all brilliant businesses, exceptional employees and terrific teams – we want you to blow your own trumpets! With new categories this year, the NAJ Awards await your entries.

The NAJ Awards are a popular way an expenses system, partnering with a of recognising the brilliance of your subscription service or hosting a unique The Categories organisation, the professionalism of a work sales event – these are all ‘new’ things that colleague or the positive impact a team or have been done and represent innovation. group has made to your company. They’re Individual/ Team awards about recognising companies and people If you’re unsure what bright idea fits where, that have gone above and beyond to deliver talk to us and we’ll help point you in the Sales Person of the Year right direction. Remember, when entering great results, an unforgettable experience Designer of the Year NAJ Awards awards – you should write about what makes and in some circumstances a legacy for others to follow. you or the individual you are nominating Workshop Professional of the Year special. Entries can be submitted in writing Team of the Year or by video. You might choose to work with

an agency or freelancer to write or record Have you got a the entry on your behalf. Organisation awards

good story to tell? Entries open on 1st July, 2019 and close on Service Provider of the Year 14th October, 2019. It’s free to enter – you must be a current member of the NAJ. On Jewellery and/or Watch Supplier of the Year 2019 It doesn’t matter what shape or size your the 5th December, 2019 the NAJ Awards Retailer of the Year company is, this is about highlighting to ceremony will be held during the (fun- the world something good and the judges packed) Benevolent Society Ball, at the St Innovation of the Year will be basing their decisions in context. For John's Hotel, Solihull. Corporate Social Responsibility Initiative of example, if a small jewellery supplier has the Year done something which might seem simple, For details on how to enter and tips to help Website of the Year but actually delivered ground-breaking you write an award-winning entry, visit our results to its business, such as digitalising website: www.naj.co.uk/awards Physical Shop Front of the Year 12 NAJ News The Jeweller June 2019 NAJ News 13

GF WILLIAMS’ team of qualified gemmologists provides exemplary The New NAJ industry knowledge and expertise to support its clients’ needs. The Hatton Garden business o£ers an extensive and varied range of high quality loose , sourced from across the globe, many of which can be viewed on its online catalogue and are available Pin… a Preview from stock in a variety of cuts and sizes. “We’re delighted to be able to support the NAJ with this prestigious project and look forward to seeing the finished article Last year we launched a competition containing our beautiful stones when it is finally unveiled,” says Jason Williams. to design a new pin for the NAJ Chair. The winner was Bethan Cubbin, and thanks to the generosity of industry stalwarts – who are all providing responsibly sourced materials – the pin is now in production. WESTON BEAMOR will be responsible NINETEEN48 has donated a blue for the 3D printing and for the for the pin. The company o£ers piece. The company was one of the first responsibly mined and fully traceable THE BRIEF was to design a beautiful, UK casting houses to receive Fair Trade coloured gemstones from a number of gender-neutral, ‘Past and Future’ pin for Gold accreditation and o£ers the service carefully selected sources globally. It the NAJ’s chair to wear at formal events using 18ct and 9ct yellow, white and red supplies sapphire and , as well as a and engagements where the (very heavy!) alloys. Truly an expert, Weston Beamor wide range of other gemstones including full regalia might not be required. Forming was also one of the first manufacturers to aquamarine, , , , part of the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design o£er a 3D printing service. , , citrine, and Council Awards, the proposal stated that . Nineteen48’s aim is to provide a the design should include some form of competitive product to trade and private symbolic representation or correlation customers, and a fair return to its partners. to the origins of the NAJ – its logo for instance. The pin should also incorporate a facility to hang the jewel as a .

In her design, BETHAN CUBBIN, a student at the School of Jewellery, Birmingham City University, has incorporated contrasting metals, gold and , to represent the NAG/BJA merger to create the NAJ, to make up the unicorn horn from the NAJ logo. Also taken from the logo, the pin also features the lion’s head HATTON & SPENCER provides beautiful as well as a round blue gemstone (for the packaging that creates unforgettable ring on the shield) and a red baguette for customer experiences. Its collections the timer on the shield. The pin’s shape is range from stylishly textured, based on the jeweller’s bow drill. contemporary boxes to traditional designs with classic detailing and materials. For COOKSONGOLD, the UK’s largest CHARLES GREEN, a founder member of the NAJ pin, a premium-quality wooden one-stop shop for the jewellery maker, the former British Jewellers Association, is hinged box has been selected. It features now stocks the largest range of Fairtrade making the pin, from CAD to completion. a semi-matt varnished American walnut Gold in Europe and will be providing the The Birmingham-based business wood veneer, with a classic black lining gold for the pin. Fairtrade Gold ensures has invested in the latest technology, and insert with a Nappa leather feel. The small-scale and artisanal miners are paid including 3D scanners, printers and CAD CURTEIS, a UK family-owned and operated company’s manufacturing partner has a fair price and receive an extra amount software that enables it to provide high jewellery manufacturer, o£ers a variety of been creating high quality, innovative of money to invest in building the future resolution images of design work, sample jewellery findings and components. With packaging for over 100 years. As a of their families and their communities, waxes and more. With its many years of a wide range of chain as its core product, signatory of the UN Global Compact since through education, clean water and experience it can help to create all manner Shropshire-based Curteis o£ers Fairtrade 2005 and a longstanding Sedex member, healthcare. Cooksongold became a of jewellery, from bespoke engagement Gold chain in a variety of lengths, gauges it’s committed to social and environmental certified supplier of Fairtrade Gold and rings to shaped-to-fit wedding rings, from and weights. Curteis has provided the responsibility and ethical global trade the first major supplier in the UK in 2011. seal cut signet rings to one-o£ . Fairtrade Gold chain for the pin. practices. 14 Watch Report The Jeweller June 2019 Watch Report 15

Left / Michel Herbelin Form… Meister Centre / Maurice Lacroix Right / Timex

“Today, the watch industry tends to come back Blue dials with dark coloured on case to the basics – smaller sizes, thinner, standard and is also popular and for men and colours on the ‘not too busy’ dials. The last five women the retro trend is important.” Accurist to six years have been very challenging for the watch industry, leading to less creativity and “Some of the more trend-led details across much more pragmatism for the brands in their the collections include visible balance wheels, product development process. Nevertheless, rose gold PVD plating and crescent moon we’ve remained very consistent by focusing date window. For our women’s Black Diamond on high-perceived value products, o£ering a mechanical model, black PVD coating helps to lot of details and quality for a very reasonable make the stones pop.” Raymond Weil price. And today, probably more than aesthetic trends, sizes or colours, watch customers “We’re not a brand to follow trends… but blue expects to get a lot for what they pay.” is very strong for us at the moment and we’ve Thiébaut Bentz, Maurice Lacroix added a few colourful hints.” Elliot Brown

“For men, after years of large diameters, a Obaku comes from a history of slim, clean, Vintage vibes, minimal moods, military overtones… we highlight the strong trend has emerged for smaller sizes and elegant . This year it’s taking the slimline cases – so we’ve introduced these, slimness to a new level with it’s ultra-slim 2019 watch trends, reveal new models and check the market for key influences. especially into our ‘Signature’ collection. Paper lines – 4.9mm at a starting point of £145. Grand Seiko This Time… “Undoubtedly there’s been more demand for small watches (around 40mm) and we’re seeing that blue is still a very popular colour. And we’re experiencing a considerable demand for our high end Limited Edition watches.” Bremont

The Junghans ‘max bill’ Automatic provides a view of the internal workings for the first time, while embodying the essential aspects envisioned by product designer Max Bill – optimum readability of the time. The Bauhaus influence can be seen in the concrete grey strap, red hands and glass case back.

Left /Obaku The SS19 Missguided collection takes Right / Mondaine snippets from all trends this season – combining multi dials, crystal encrusted Left / Nomos features and iridescent casing. Centre / Junghans 16 Watch Report The Jeweller

Plus Function Epos

Maurice Lacroix has launched a models with either a fixed bezel at 40mm Masterpiece, which summarises the brand’s or uni-directional bezel at 41.5mm with that core values: the Aikon Mercury. Mercury is all-important second time zone.” a new, patented complication with a double retrograde animation playing with the The new Citizen Promaster Navihawk AT gravity. with navigational features combined with a new design, ‘for professionals who challenge “We’ve recently developed something their limits’. Precision timekeeping is a key that may, at first, sound unspectacular, feature of the collection, as well as light- but is actually revolutionary: an ultra-thin powered technology, Eco-Drive. automatic calibre with a bi-directional date function – in-house designed neomatik date Raymond Weil’s best-selling ‘freelancer’ calibre.” Nomos collection has a modern twist – a self- winding mechanical movement with a 2019 marks the 20th anniversary of Grand striking half-moon date window. Citizen Seiko’s unique Spring Drive technology, combining mechanical and elements Independent , Culem Watches, for a high level of precision. The new Grand has launched its first automatic luxury dual- Seiko Elegance series features designs with time GMT travel watch. The Swiss-made a more refined and even slimmer profile. luxury timepiece correctly displays 24 world time zones in both GMT and BST on an “At Rotary we’re finding GMT movements open case back – allowing you to set the Creating your story - are popular as they finally figure out what local and destination time on a GMT watch they do. ‘Henley’ features four new GMT accurately. always in

Rolex

Left / Rotary International Right / Bulova Jewellery London

CURATED IN LONDON • WELCOMING THE WORLD

1-3 SEPTEMBER 2019 • OLYMPIA LONDON

IJL delivers year round inspiration, innovation, education and new business opportunities. Source new ranges, discover trends and be inspired by new retail innovation. Only at IJL. Stay connected and register to attend at www.jewellerylondon.com

Left / Zeppelin Right / Zenith 18 Watch Report The Jeweller

Military Service INTERESTED IN WATCHES

Tudor introduces the Black Bay P01, a watch “At Avi-8 we explore modern as well as based on a legendary prototype developed vintage inspirations from military aviation AND HOW THEY WORK? in the late 1960s and proposed to the US for men’s watches, which has also shown up Navy. The project (code name ‘Commando’) in the higher-end Swiss brands.”

never materialised as the regular Tudor Avi-8 diver’s watch was eventually adopted Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 Adventure combines instead. Black Bay P01 with its domed, matt- an urban outlook with unparalleled Join us for a ‘hands on’ day at the stunning Upton Hall in black dial and luminous hour markers, is versatility. Expressing reliability, comfort inspired by that prototype. and robustness, it also comes in a Nottinghamshire, headquarters of the British Horological Institute chronograph version, the Chronograph and home of the Museum of Timekeeping. Get to grips with the “Our best-seller currently is the Holton Adventure. It o£ers easy readability along Bremont Professional, designed with and supplied with two fully-interchangeable strap options. basics of mechanical watches under the watchful eye of one of to a specialist branch of the military as its our professional tutors. Learn how to: first issued watch from a British brand in 13 Casio has introduced new G-SHOCK years. This particular watch is purchased models, including Gravitymaster, an by the MOD and issued as a piece of addition to the aviation concept featuring • Handle examples of watches, including quartz and equipment. It’s made using anti-reflective the brand’s red colour accents. A new Carbon chronometers matt gunmetal and black with high legible Core Guard structure gives shock resistance markings by necessity – complete with and the tensile strength to withstand harsh • Use watchmaking tools to remove and replace plates NATO stock number.” Elliot Brown conditions. and hairsprings • Use a timing machine and be shown how to make adjustments to watches • Study the movements and gain an understanding of how watches keep time

The cost of the day is £99.00 including refreshments and lunch.

Left / Accurist Availability is limited to six per session – book your place today. Right / Luminox New retro

Meistersinger’s new Vintago might look back to an elegant past, but a contemporary twist is added with curved hour hand rotating over a multi-level, unadorned dial, adding depth to a geometric appearance.

The latest edition to Fossil’s Archival Series, the Hologram Watch is one of a limited edition collection of re-designs, inspired by models launched in the early 1990s.

Tudor Calvin Klein o£ers a return of vintage feelings – classic with a twist, shapes, rich-touch leather straps and new romantic patina. New ways to read the time create bold, unexpected statements. New classics come Training Clock to life with curved crystals, layered dials and and deep blue hues.” Since 1858 The Ferragamo Timepiece collection is vintage-inspired with a contemporary twist and rectangular case/dial. The leather strap Contact Zanna: comes in a palette of sharp, vibrant tones.” bhi.co.uk T: 01636 817603 With two feminine styles, Timex Waterbury G-Shock Traditional is a modern update on a classic E: [email protected] – it began as an homage to the Waterbury Clock Company in Connecticut in 1854. On-site accommodation is available. Upton Hall • Upton • Newark Please enquire for details. Nottinghamshire • NG23 5TE

© Copyright BHI 2019

00411 NAJ Advert - Intro to Watches - V5 FAW.indd 1 26/02/2019 16:05 20 Watch Report The Jeweller June 2019 Watch Report 21

Left / Victoria Hyde Centre / Everswiss Sign of Our Times Right / Blancpain

Launched last year, Mondaine’s ‘essence’ collection marks an eco-conscious era for the brand, as it was built using sustainable materials: castor oil for its case, natural rubber for the strap and recycled PET bottles for its multi-purpose pouch, but retaining the key markers of the brand’s Left / Elliot Brown DNA. New, easy-change straps are made Right / Breitling from woven wool with a natural cork lining.

“Prices are stable, but we’ve introduced new entry-level watches, like the new duo series, “Women tend to spend less on watches than that embodies the Bauhaus principle that men and yet increasing numbers of women less is more.” Nomos prefer a mechanical, rather than a quartz timepiece. Many of our female customers Smart Moves “The premium market is in far better shape appreciate our classic unisex sizing of 35- than the fashion watch market, but in the 36cm.” Nomos premium space steel seems to be stronger than gold/.” Bremont Ferragamo “The Kimmeridge women’s collection “We’ve been monitoring the smart watch market shares Swiss movement, shock protection, closely. Traditional brands are quite cautious, as 200m water testing, solid strap bars and technology is moving at such a pace. Consumer toughened materials with our other models. research suggests people have multiple Although it’s a tough timepiece it’s got timepieces, which may include a smart/fitness feminine aesthetics.” Eliott Brown watch. We strongly believe there is still a great opportunity to grow the classic watch market at “For summer, light colours are always our price point.” Accurist popular – living coral is big now; our nude pink and blues are also on trend. Unisex/ Raymond Weil “In 2015 we, together with Frederique Constant women’s watches with 36mm/38mm case and Alpina, launched the first Swiss-made sizes were best sellers, but now there’s a smartwatch. The market allows for all types of trend for feminine, smaller designs. We wristwear, with smart horological developments Versace apply new materials on dials and straps – being an interesting and growing sector. We’re 3-D dials with motifs like hummingbirds proud to straddle both markets.” Mondaine and butterflies, crystals or satin embroidery for a feminine aesthetic.” Victoria Hyde “It’s a growing trend but a diŠcult market; most brands o£er a hybrid watch, but it’s hard “Collections designed specifically for to compete with the technology giants like women tend to be more popular and Apple, Samsung and Garmin who o£er more What Women Want successful than smaller versions of gents’ functionality.” Festina watches; it shows the brand identifies with the values of women as core customers, rather than just an afterthought.” Amit “The women’s watch space has been largely are weighted towards minimalist styles, Mahboobani, Mode9 ignored for mechanical watches, so I can with feminine, stone-set models gaining Culem see it growing… for unisex or feminine momentum. Spring fashion trends styles.” Bremont inspire our new ranges with a variety of coloured metals, neutrals and pops of “The a-gender trend today o£ers the colour. ” Accurist opportunity for all to wear the same watch, but we still believe that in our collections “Women’s watches have been more some ‘specific’ women’s designs are a about look – Swarovski crystals and strong part of the identity. As a fashion minimalism – than the function, but brand, women’s styles are a strength of we’ve also introduced chronographs ours.” Calvin Klein for women which were received well.” Festina “Women’s watches are evolving and taking on their own DNA or identity. In the fashion “Historic data has shown that smaller, segment they are a wardrobe extension; daintier models sell well for women, simplicity of silhouette, varying colours, however, we are seeing a shift in buying textures and materials o£er newness.” habits towards larger cases. We’re Left / Fossil Vishal Tolani, Avi-8 supporting current fashion trends by Missguided Right / Festina incorporating Swarovski crystals and “Our diverse collection of women’s watches into more of our ladies’ sells exceptionally well, year-on-year. Sales ranges.” Rotary 22 Watch Report

MONTHS We make buying and E-business selling easy.

Many were canvassed on this thorny subject; “Controlling and nurturing online a balance of bricks and mortar and online customers are challenges that brands face. is desirable, is the consensus. Ian Elliot of Is a newsletter sign-up still a big enough CARDFREE TERMINAL Elliot Brown has plenty to get o£ his chest: incentive to receive the ubiquitous 10 or 15 per cent discount when pretty much every “Online sales are convenient and 3RENTAL online retailer does it? Not many people unstoppable. There’s a customer who feels really want to sign up to another email Calvin Clein like a hero, hunter-gathering their latest database. Why discount at all if the product purchase at the lowest price with a kind of demand is there (don’t get me started on disdain for all retailers. Then there are those Black Friday… Black November… Black who need the reassurance of personalised, December). People need to buy Christmas expert buying advice or seek the more fulfilling experience received in-store. presents – so why does the online sector feel Sadly the number of really good bricks and it needs to race towards the bottom on price mortar retailers with well-trained, courteous, at the busiest time of year? Clear some old professional sta£ are relatively few. Some lines for a day… sure, then stop. independents might grasp the reins and Breguet Exclusive NAJ Member Discounts drive a great business into the current “If online retailers put e£ort into creating era – we see them thriving and happily better content and a more immersive we’re stocked by many because they’re the experience, they might become more £50 Towards NAJ Membership future. Other factors – such as split retail interesting, gain more traŠc, rank higher, environments where out-of-town centres gain sales and even consumer loyalty, have fragmented traditional high street because the experience is fulfilling. Price locations – e£ectively fuel the relentless discounts alone don’t create a sustainable No Minimum Monthly Charge growth of online trading. business.”

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Despite fewer watches being sold in Britain, were achieved for almost two years, but in the value of the market continues to grow, the last year this growth has slowed. says Paul Mitchell, senior client insight director at GfK Previously, almost all luxury brands were part of that strong growth, but now the high- The value of traditional watch sales rose by end landscape is mixed with some brands 2.7% in the year to February 2019, as tracked performing better than others. However, by GfK, while the number of watches sold there’s still enough growth at the high-end fell by -11.6%. Both trends continue those to sustain the overall market, albeit this is recorded over recent years, with value now restricted to the gents watch market driven by the strong performance of luxury – sales were up 3.9% in the past 12 months. watch brands, while mass market consumers The ladies market declined -6.6% in the continue to purchase fewer watches. same period. So, if retailers and brands aren’t in the GfK’s data includes multiple and The second factor is the online market – any luxury market (particularly over £1,000) independent jewellers, department stores sale where the transaction is completed there are significant challenges – like the and mass merchants. online, from any retailer. Previously those growth of smartwatches, the popularity of in the mass market (sub-£500) could look to health and fitness trackers and the ubiquity Within this context, there are two key online as an area of growth. However, this of smartphones. Younger generations In partnership with factors. The first is that the rate of topline is no longer the case. Since November 2017 today don’t have the same basic need of Quote NAJ & Call FREE market growth has slowed. The luxury the online mass market has been shrinking, wristwatches and they have a choice of what market boomed after the EU referendum, in line with overall sales trends, across all kind of device to wear. Brands operating then the pound fell in value and foreign channels, at this price point. In the year to in this market need to build brand appeal, visitors drove sales in this sector (but strong February 2018 the total online value for the to position themselves for today’s multi- 0800 881 8104 growth was seen nationwide, not just in whole market fell by channel customer and seek growth where London). Growth rates of approximately 20% -3.3%, with volumes down -11.2%. they can. valitor.com 24 Education Trading up - your future, their future, our future?

Whatever industry you’re in, presenting the opportunity to ‘move onwards and upwards’ gets attention. Earning a higher salary, taking on a new challenge or finding a better fit with your lifestyle are all good reasons for targeting professional progression.

According to the American Bureau of Labour will enable a jeweller to educate customers Employee Statistics, the average worker currently holds in a meaningful way. It’s no secret… 10 di£erent jobs before the age of 40, and this supporting new and existing employees 71% of apprentices agreed the number is projected to grow. Just think, some through development activities pays chances of earning a higher wage in of your future co-workers are out there doing dividends in terms of knowledge, confidence, something they don’t particularly enjoy and and ultimately performance, both for the the future had increased that doesn’t fit with their unique skillset, and individual and the organisation (and the they’re looking for something else. industry) – hence the title of this article. Of those who completed an Adding Value to your “We welcome everybody to this apprenticeship 90% secured a job or As business owners and directors, this could Apprenticeships represent an entry route went onto further learning, with 88% Jewellery journey. popular conference, both from be an opportunity missed, when you could into the jewellery world that are among the in sustained employment perhaps attract them into your organisation most eŠcient ways of training sta£, both the wider UK jewellery industry by o£ering to support and develop them in financially (because of Government support) NAJ’s largest meeting opportunity this year will their role. And it’s not always about attracting and in terms of the quality of learning and Employer be opening its doors on the 14th September, and from around the world.” externally, you may have your next protégée development on o£er. The Government and in its 29th year it promises to be bigger and in the team already, just in the wrong role to this year launched its ‘Fire It Up’ campaign, Improved productivity (78%), fulfill their potential – and worryingly they which aims to highlight the benefits of improved product or service quality better than ever. could be one of those currently looking for apprenticeships to the apprentice and (74%) plus new ideas apprenticeships Frank Wood, PTSI Chair something else. employer community. bring to their organisation (65%) In addition to the below keynote sessions you will also have access to Six 90-minute workshops, The NAJ is interested in attracting people Talking about the campaign, Education 83% of employers would recommend an onsite skill surgery, opportunity to visit the into the jewellery industry, driving their Secretary Damian Hinds said: apprenticeships to other businesses professionalism, enhancing their skills and gemstone market and unrivalled networking knowledge and enabling creativity and “We are seeing the apprenticeship system opportunities throughout with catering, including initiative to flourish. When this happens, in this country come of age, with leading three lunches and two dinners. there is a greater good that occurs and the employers waking up to the benefits Jewellery industry apprenticeships whole industry benefits. We want to get apprenticeships can bring. The are nothing new. But these new style 14th - 16th September 2019 more people buying jewellery, more often. sad truth is that outdated and snobbish apprenticeships are certainly appropriate for If a member of your team has been able to attitudes are still putting people o£ businesses of all shapes and sizes. Keynote speakers: educate a customer to start a life-long love apprenticeships, which means they’re Loughborough University a£air with jewellery, that’s great – the passion missing out on great jobs and higher The take-away message is that opening up and enthusiasm that they spread among salaries – many of them in the sorts of entry into businesses and enabling individuals - Kerry Gregory, Gemmology Rocks friends, family and work colleagues (not firms graduates look to land jobs with after to develop within their roles, benefits you the forgetting Instagram followers) is exactly the university.” jeweller, the individual and the wider industry. From £428+ VAT type of word of mouth promotion we need. - Rosamond Clayton, Fellow of the Institute of You do not have to look far to find knowledge Strong figures back up the claims of these More information on apprenticeships? Visit Registered Valuers and skills development opportunities that ‘new style’ apprenticeship benefits: naj.co.uk/apprenticeships. More information & booking - Harriet Kelsall, Harriet Kelsall Jewellery 029 2081 3615 - Steve Carson, Searle and Co [email protected] We hope you enjoyed the ‘How to be a Valuer’ in the last issue. We should clarify that a valuer wishing to take CAT does not need to have been in the trade for five years, plus have gemmology and diamond qualifications. Those are pre-requisites for IRV membership (along with passing CAT). Anyone can enrol on CAT at any time. Apologies for any confusion caused. - Ginnie and Leo De Vroomen, De Vrooomen naj.co.uk/conference 26 Education June 2019 Advertorial 27

Technical innovation and aesthetic excellence combine in Taloumis’ comprehensive collection of The Latest spirals, cables and chains. Bransom Jennifer Godson, Gadsby’s of Bridgnorth – February’s Winner Stars “Having only been in the industry for eight months, Gadsby’s, the family business, is my first experience of the trade. I was a business Faye Smith, David you’re advising customers on wedding consultant in London and moved home due rings for instance. Having that greater to my father’s ill health, to join Gadsbys, Summerfield, Gateshead – knowledge behind you gives you much which was established in 1884 and we’ve Spiral- January’s Winner more confidence when selling. owned for five years. My father also owns a jewellery wholesale business, so I’ve grown up around jewellery. “My father trained as a jeweller so my “The most enjoyable part of the course was interest and knowledge came from learning in greater detail about gemstones. “In-house training is hands-on learning from him while growing up. First I was I felt I knew a reasonable amount about the combined experience of over 90 years attracted to the fashion side and loved them already until I started to read course books and research online. It’s been useful in the shop. So the JET programme is so branded products, but have since come learning about each stone’s origin and how invaluable to someone like me – I can build to enjoy learning about fine jewellery, they’re sourced; about their beauty, rarity a more in-depth knowledge and pick up new particularly diamonds and gemstones. and durability and has certainly helped facts to share with the rest of the team. when serving customers. “I started working at David “I’ve always had a passion for jewellery, Bound Summerfield, initially on weekends “The course books and online material and being surrounded by it daily has been s design-led, fashion-forward chain and cables for over 40 years, with flexibility and resistance. Even under the and through holidays, to now full provided were my first and foremost points quite testing on my wage slip! I did a lot of jewellery grows ever more cutting edge technology resulting in many most demanding conditions it won’t break, time. I work across di£erent areas research into the course topics but I always of reference. Assay OŠce websites links etc popular – and limited only by the innovations over that time. Today it is the stretch or crimp. and branches, keeping each day fresh chose a piece of jewellery in the shop to were a great help as I knew the information imagination of the creator – so patented Elastic Spiral and Elastic Omega and interesting. I love establishing was reliable. Sometimes searching online I study and use as an example for my research. A With an emphasis on quality raw materials the need for complementary, innovative customers’ needs and finding them that are the hero products in the company’s wasn’t sure that the information provided components increases. German neckwear and manufacture, Taloumis o£ers designer the perfect item; I can go from “I found the final assignment on the vast inventory. was necessarily accurate, but my support company Taloumis identified an industry makers, jewellery manufacturers and advising someone buying a diamond tutor answered any queries I had. Victorian ring restoration enjoyable as we retailers more than 40,000 combinations of desire for a flexible, durable chain that The Elastic Spiral combines extreme engagement ring in one branch, to sell a lot of pre-owned jewellery and buy in product in its trade only e-shop. All spirals retains a rounded shape when worn as a flexibility and elasticity with extreme taking in a jewellery repair or selling a “Since completing the course I’ve gained a lot of interesting pieces. The hallmarking and cables are available in , pendant. And so the Elastic Spiral was born. branded product in another. confidence in serving and advising assignment also aided my ability in being durability – even in its finest version silver, yellow, rose and white gold alloys customers. In particular, on a number able to date these pieces, although I also (0.5mm), while the Elastic Omega o£ers and platinum (plus bi-colours); a range of “The store is very proactive in its of occasions I’ve been able to advise found this the most challenging. Founded in 1976 in Munich, since relocated the elegance and lustre of ‘Omega’ chain diameters from 0.5mm to 1.4mm (2mm in approach to training, o£ering the JET customers on repairs and give them a lot to Greece, the company has manufactured (also known as ‘Tonda’ chain) with ultra- development); any length from 15cm to 2m; programme to all employees. I took more options when looking to restore an “The course has been extremely useful. In a variety of clasps (including the secure, the opportunity as soon as it came older item of jewellery or remake an item; my starting months I tended to pass over easy-to-use, innovative, patented Doubleclip up – I think it’s important to advance previously I’d have asked the jeweller for high-end sales, particularly engagement clasp) and can be anything from a single knowledge, especially when everyday his recommendations.” rings, to more experienced sta£ to ensure cable to 160 cables – all in one clasp. the customer received the right information and guidance. But I now have the confidence An exhibitor at the trade fair Inhorgenta to take a customer through this journey Munich every year since 1976, Taloumis myself. The assignments on the four Cs and already exports to more than 30 countries diamonds have really been invaluable to me. and is now reaching out into the UK where I’d absolutely recommend JET to others, it has appointed representatives to help especially newcomers like me. We’re here to and advise. As well as short delivery times provide not only a service for customers, but (orders are shipped within two days) the also expertise. team promises advisory support… even after a sale. And shipping cost is €8.50 for most “I want to continue progressing through destinations, by 24hr express delivery. JET to further my knowledge. When I have more experience I’d also like to take CAT as a first step to fuelling my interest For more details visit: www.taloumis.com in jewellery appraisal. I’d like to thank all or contact UK and Ireland sales manager the sta£ at Gadsbys who very generously Gemma Wright (44) 7887 762561 passed on their knowledge and experience… email: [email protected] particularly our manager, Debbie.” 28 Insurance The Jeweller The Value of Valuations How do jewellery valuations help with insurance claim settlements? Some expert tips for retail jewellers from the experts at TH March

To o£er customers added value, being able Feedback via the online review platform to clearly explain the need for an upfront ‘Trustpilot’ regarding the jewellery insurance expert valuation is a key to success. claims experience of TH March customers, March Plus Policy indicates top-rated ‘5-star’ level service. The secret to a speedy and satisfactory Valuation Checklist outcome to any insurance claim following This is great news for jewellers with March the loss or damage of an item of jewellery This checklist for items valued over Insurance Solutions referral agencies, is a pre-existing, in-date, professional £1,000 is designed to help you provide valuation. because they can recommend TH March the specific details insurers require. with increased confidence, as two recent Obtaining/providing a good quality, Trustpilot reviews show: All valuations /receipts should be from professional valuation at the time customers a UK Jeweller or Independent Valuer take out insurance, or add a new item to an “Absolutely delighted with my recent and must be less than 3 years old and include the following: existing insurance, is very important, even experience with TH March. Excellent if (unlike TH March) the insurer says that a customer service and clear communication valuation isn’t required. throughout. They liaised e”ciently with my Valuations / receipts specifying the Jeweller's name, address and Best advice: make sure you recommend jeweller and kept me up to date throughout c o n t a c t d e t a i l s they get one and send it to their insurers – the process. Highly recommended.” (Stephen M – 07/04/19) queries about the item can be raised at the Signed and dated by the Jeweller time it’s added and NOT after it’s been lost, SUPPLIER stolen or damaged. “Service delivered was amazing. Would recommend to anyone. They made the D e s c r i p t i o n o f I t e m & TH March asks for a supporting valuation process great in what was a very upsetting for every item of jewellery valued at £1,000 What the item is (i.e ring, pendant, time losing my engagement ring. Will or above. Yes, we occasionally receive bracelet, watch etc) FINE JEWELLERY negative comments (“No one else asks continue to use them as I can't fault anything. for a valuation”) but once we explain the Very professional and helpful with queries Metal type (i.e platinum, white, BRAND OF THE YEAR relevance of a valuation and the e£ect it and questions.” (Gemma C - 12/04/19) yellow, rose gold, ) will have on a claim, most are happy. We Cut of diamonds/stones do it to ensure we know exactly what we To find more visit: http://thmar.ch/vY8L are insuring and the replacement cost. This Carat weight of diamonds/stones www.theraphaelcollection.com knowledge speeds up the claims process. We believe that these ratings stem from

dealing with jewellery claims quickly thanks Clarity of diamonds/stones How? In basic terms a claims handler will (Required for items over £10,000) ask three questions: to our policy of obtaining valuations upfront. Colour of diamonds/stones 1. Is the item covered? Finally, when insuring personal jewellery, (Required for items over £10,000) 2. How much will it cost to replace? the policy should never be measured by how 3. Where are we going to replace it? cheap it is, how glossy the literature or how little information is needed to organise a Basis of Replacement Our approach means we only have to policy. What really matters is the quality of consider 1 – easy for us as we understand New Replacement Value or Second the cover and the way a claim is handled. insurance and the cover provided. 2 – has Hand Replacement Value already been sorted; there’s no post-loss validation needed and the replacement It is always advisable to stress to customers cost is as per the valuation we have, which that they should speak to their insurers and In Respect of Watches has also given us the answer to 3 – where it ask them how they would settle a claim for Make, Model, Serial number will be replaced. Hence, we’re able to settle the loss of an item of jewellery, particularly genuine jewellery claims quicker than if they have an older or hand-made item. Watch valuations must show the many. Unhappy customers should definitely SHRV (second hand replacement look for an insurer who would match their value) or NRV (new replacement Without a valuation an insurer will have no expectations. value) and be supported with idea what they are insuring and will have to a copy of the purchase receipt, start their underwriting process after a loss, photographs of the watch For a video animation that will assist in rather than when they actually agree the itself, watch box and warranty / WORLD CLASS MANUFACTURERS loss is covered, to establish what the item explaining the need for upfront valuations, guarantee card is and how much THEY think it will cost to jewellers may wish to share this link: OF FINE DIAMOND BRIDAL JEWELLERY replace. http://thmar.ch/Vv4W 4th Floor 86 Hatton Garden London EC1N 8QQ E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.theraphaelcollection.com 30 Wedding Jewellery The Jeweller June 2019 Wedding Jewellery 31

While fewer of us are getting married today, it doesn’t necessarily follow that we’ve lost our desire to cement meaningful relationships with beautiful jewellery, says Belinda Morris.

Andrew Geoghegan

interesting cuts – and we’re looking into this also,” says Geoghegan. “With so much diamond product out there, the key for us to is create innovative, unique designs that not only present the diamond beautifully, but add a further dimension of beauty.”

Picchiotti Diamonds for Today “We’re witnessing an increase in customers looking for design di£erentiation on London DE engagement rings,” adds Naomi Newton- Sherlock of Domino Jewellery. “We’ve been incorporating diamond detailing on shanks, as well as creative silhouettes and di£erent patterns to enhance the centre stone across et’s ignore negative statistics and where customers are fashion-focused,” says several ranges, and we’re introducing even focus instead on the very many marketing manager Jen Ashby. “They’re more designs in our new Diamond Ring reasons to invest in diamonds – still classic but they can appear larger Mount collection launching this summer.” engagement, betrothal, wedding, than a brilliant due to the elongated shape, Lcommitment, new baby, friendship, self- so o£er value for money for customers This year another avenue of business for indulgence… Think laterally. concerned about carat weight.” At Hockley Gemex is a pared-back ‘bread and butter’ Mint popular stones are trending towards collection of four- and six-claw solitaire Looking at the positive factors currently softer, more curved shapes, with ovals and designs without diamonds on the shoulders. influencing the diamond jewellery market, cushions catching up with rounds. Bespoke “It’s a very competitively priced range, two recent royal weddings have done no trilogy rings often feature cut sold finished with certificated diamonds,” harm. Trilogies and cluster/halo styles centre stones with baguette or trapezoid explains MD Lee Ruben, “and we plan to are nothing new of course, and both enjoy outer diamonds for an Art Deco feel. have a core range of 50 to 60 designs.” The It’s a strong sales. Not as strong as brilliant majority of the brand’s rings are in platinum David Fell of Hans D Krieger reports that solitaires obviously… –specifically an with five per cent pear shapes have been strong over the past cobalt – “it’s a more malleable metal, better 12 months and Phil Spencer of Diamond for more intricate designs,” he explains. DE says that trilogy rings are his most requested engagement rings (often with a Aesthetics coloured central gemstone flanked by two diamonds) and oval, round and emerald are “While the brilliant cut is still champ, by far the most popular shapes. Andy Bass we’ve seen movement in oval and princess at Diamonds for Today adds that there’s a Domino Love shapes,” says designer Andrew Geoghegan. trend for fancy cuts. “But well-established “And yes, solitaires are the strongest for cuts set into interesting shapes – like Vs, engagement rings, but more specifically twists and asymmetrics – are also making solitaires with accent stones – halo or an impact,” he adds. “Princess, oval and shoulder set.” Hatton Garden-based Olivia pears are particularly popular, but there’s a Grace finds that the cushion cut is the most lot of interest in shaped rings created using popular shape among clients who want an invisible setting of traditional stones. And Art Deco or other vintage look. And while as couples spend so much more on their trilogies were popular immediately after wedding now, the spectacular bespoke ring Meghan’s engagement, the halo remains the is certainly a growing trend.” most requested style. What’s clear is that you have to keep Thing At Brown & Newirth, brilliant solitaires moving to ensure success – no relying on reign in the Bloom collection, followed by the same old same old. “I’m seeing more and haloes, with growing interest in oval shapes. more designers/brands creating simpler, Gemex “This is particularly the case in locations more minimal designs of late and with more 32 Wedding Jewellery The Jeweller

Meanwhile, some are reporting yellow gold’s resurgence. “After two decades dominated by white gold or platinum set with white diamonds, our retailers are getting requests for more adventurous, bolder, colourful pieces,” says Bass. “Many of their engagement rings are being sold to customers in their 30s and 40s, who are more confident in their ring choice.” And Clogau’s Compose by Clogau® relaunched range o£ers a variety of individual styles – from elegant to romantic – in yellow or rose gold. Hockley Mint Le Petit Prince by FJF The Four Cs

Consumer confidence also comes via the internet. “Today’s consumer goes online, does their homework and self-educates before they even step foot in a store,” Hans D Krieger says Rebecca Smith of Royal Asscher. “When they do get in store there’s always a general story told about diamonds and there’s a simple cut story that could be communicated. Consumers know that cut is important, but perhaps many seek out carat weight without realising the blaze of light from across the room comes from a beautiful cut, not a bigger diamond. We’ve always had our cutting prowess as a central marketing message. Our cutting and finessing abilities are what saw us entrusted with some of the most important diamonds Royal Asscher in history.”

“Order of importance tends to be the carat Ad Space weight followed by colour,” agrees Ashby. as consumers, to understand the di£erent “To the untrained eye these are the two aspects that make up a diamond’s overall features that are easiest to compare. Most look and try to make them understand consumers we encounter believe that cut that it’s more than the main aspects on the refers only to the diamond shape, so we certificate.” have to educate them on cut in relation to proportions. We use only cuts graded very “Of the four Cs cut is the hardest to explain, good and excellent – we value this as much so it always gets left out,” adds David as clarity.” Fell. “It’s also the hardest to decipher on a certificate and with the commoditisation of “The importance of cut should be diamonds through the certification process, emphasised,” agrees Howard Levine of it’s easier to sell a F VS stone on a cert, Clogau diamond trading platform Diamnet, “but the rather than on another based on the beauty retailer needs to be able to explain it well to of the cut. However, the use of branded customers.” Poppy Elder, creative manager cuts has made the consumer more aware of at Hockley Mint agrees. “Cut is definitely the multitude of interesting shapes in the the ‘C’ that’s least discussed, and it can make market place.” a huge di£erence to the look of a stone if it’s poorly cut – even more so than a few grades “Clarity and looking lively are the most of colour or clarity. I think retailers have a important and even if you have the other responsibility to educate their sta£, as well Cs in place, a badly-cut stone can ruin the overall aesthetic,” says Rachael McTiernan of Wedds & Co. For Helena Lappin at Olivia Grace colour figures with clients “who’re lowering the price with a clever Si1 or VS2, where there are no [eye-visual] marks in the diamond and maybe a small feather mark on the side, which can be hidden with claws. I’ve always added a fifth ‘C’… for ‘character’”, she adds, “each diamond has its own characteristics that make it special.”

Charles Green 34 Wedding Jewellery The Jeweller June 2019 Wedding Jewellery 35

Sarah Jordan and pendants, often featuring the bride’s Domino’s retailers are also asking about alternative gem, a pearl… but that’s another controls and measures in place. “We have Responsible Sourcing story. the ability to test diamonds with our new “The biggest single change recently is the DeBeers SYNTHDetect machine, so can PJ Watson increased interest in responsibly sourced advise whether the stones are natural or lab- gemstones, especially among millennials,” Testing Times grown,” says Newton-Sherlock. “[It] allows says Spencer. “We pride ourselves in us to test loose and mounted colourless tracing our gemstones back to their mine Not so long ago questions about synthetic stones with no lower size limit.” diamonds potententially creeping into of origin; we’re confident of the quality and ethics of our end product.” Elder agrees: the chain, were met with the word ‘trust’… “Customers are definitely asking about this, “We’re seeing more customers concerned conversation closed. No longer. “For sure but there’s no chance of selling a lab-grown about stone origin, as consumers are it’s an issue,” says Treasure House's Danny loose diamond as all our diamonds are over becoming more aware of the possible Cohen. “We’re a£ected and so the retailers 18pt and certificated by GIA, IGI or HRD ethical implications of goods they purchase. are a£ected; lab-grown is getting into melee. and I have controls in place for melee,” says Although the diamonds we supply come We’ve ordered a machine to check the Gemex’s Ruben. “We insist that all made-up from reputable sources who follow the diamonds in our jewellery so we can state goods are subject to random testing and the Kimberly Process etc, we go a step it on our invoices.” Hockley Mint is also wording [on documents] from our suppliers further by o£ering Canadian Arctic Circle taking precautions – the challenge of lab- state that the diamonds are not lab-grown.” grown diamonds entering the supply chain diamonds for those wanting to know the exact source.” and mixed with natural diamonds has led to Andre Michael asks its RJC-compliant the investment in its own diamond tester. suppliers to screen for lab-grown stones, Lappin’s clients also want ethically-sourced but also has its jewellery independently Treasure House diamonds. “They want to know where As well as asking about opportunities to screened. “Retailers are asking for this,” they’re from, how they’re mined and who include lab-gown diamonds into its designs, says Shah, “and this allows them to give cuts and polishes them. They want a guilt- an independent report to reassure their free purchase,” she says. “I buy alluvial customers. However, the real problems will diamonds from Namibia and polished come later, when lab-grown diamonds hit diamonds from a Responsible Jewellery the secondary market. There’s no intrinsic Council-accredited manufacturer.” value in synthetics.” Tankel An original UK member of the RJC, Domino Picchiotti has always been vocal about responsible sourcing. “Our customers can be confident Sheldon Bloomfield in our calibre when it comes to ethics and transparent supply chains,” says Newton- Sherlock. “RJC accreditation is one of the Price Points metrics we use to measure success within Wedds & Co the Quality Division… [as is] membership Beauty is a given but ultimately it’s about of Fairtrade.” New Austrian brand, Le Petit price; even the super-rich like value for Prince by FJF Jewellery is also an RJC money. “We’re finding that the sweet spot member with all diamonds and components is the cheaper-to-medium end – about £599 of its engagement rings ethically sourced. to £1,000,” says Himanshu Shah of Andre Michael. “Jewellery retailers have a fighting Consumer concern isn’t a given though. chance against the internet if they avoid “These issues are debated endlessly in the the E-colour GIA certificate route. It’s very trade, but most consumers don’t want to hard to get the business that on-line o£ers discuss potential problems,” argues Bass. – a basic solitaire with a GIA cert. Shops “As with synthetics, engaged couples rarely are reluctant to go for such thin margins. various styles through diamonds in featuring live pricing for customers, and be ask questions that might result in a negative It’s up to retailers to explain to customers expressive settings, or get that perfect loose able to personalise with their own shop. answer! They just want a diamond ring and that they can have a one-carater that sits diamond and work with their jeweller to to be happy!” below the GIA o£er. Most people trust Garrard Muse create a personalised masterpiece.” their jewellers,” he adds. “I know retailers Accessorise All Areas are reluctant to keep stock of anything “Price is obviously a concern… but it that doesn’t sell quickly, but they need to After the rings, are arguably most doesn’t tend to be a major issue with our think about who they’re fighting. And we’re important says Diamonds for Today, which customers,” says Poppy Elder, creative pushing ‘di£erence’ to also help beat on-line o£ers brilliant cut diamond drops and manager at Hockley Mint. “The majority – something with more work in it.” classic studs (and not just for women…). The have longstanding relationships with us FlexiLink collection of diamond line bracelet and tend to trust that we’re competitively Rebecca Smith sees the same issue: and matching collar also o£ers bespoke “The UK jewellery market seems to have priced – even more so since we started to with fancy cut and coloured diamonds. particular concern over high stock levels; supply our mounts fully finished. They’re Picchiotti’s geometric drop diamond the trade is talking about slow turnover of commenting that the price is comparative to earrings would set o£ a simple neckline diamond-based jewellery. Embracing brands sourcing their own stones… but without the and swept-up hair-do, as would Sheldon with a genuine source of di£erentiation is a extra hassle.” Bloomfield’s diamond drop earrings with wise move. In harder times the challenge is continuously moving drilled centre stone. there to create opportunity, be productive, Platforms like Diamnet can help retailers exciting, innovate, grow, evolve,” she says. compete with on-line, as can suppliers, such Sleeveless gowns demand cu£s, bangles Olivia Grace “Royal Asscher is o£ering UK retailers four as Gemex which has fine-tuned its website or , like Garrard’s filigree style Brigitte Adolph fancy shaped loose diamonds programme to provide stores with all the tools to create with diamonds. For the ultimate in ethereal and/or bridal collections to grow their myriad variations to suit all requests. Wedds delicacy there’s the signature lace-e£ect in business. The beauty of [this suite] is & Co’s new website too will give its retail white gold or silver by Brigitte Adolph – a customers come into store and explore customers access to all its collections, collection of rings, bracelets and earrings 36 Wedding Jewellery The Jeweller June 2019 Industry News 37 Bridal Kickstarters 2019 The annual mentoring programme, created by IJL and the NAJ, International Jewellery is one of the industry’s most successful bursary programmes for Jewellery London has announced the emerging talent. The initiative involves six of the best up and coming UK-based jewellery designers, who have been trading for more than 12 months, giving them access to a mentoring package, six winning designers named workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, Arabel Lebrusan introduces vintage rings introductions to key industry figures… and an always popular News as the IJL 2019 KickStarters. presence at IJL 2019. Ethical jeweller Arabel Lebrusan and jewellery journalist Claire Roberts have launched the on-line Vintage Ring Company – a£ordable vintage and vintage-style engagement rings, featuring a The Kickstart 2019 Winners Are: diverse collection of curated pieces, priced under £2,000. Each ring Monomer wedding rings now in UK comes with a Certificate of Authenticity, issued and signed by The Goldsmiths’ Company. The o£er comprises: Antique Engagement Monomer, designed by former-architect Thomas Mrokon, combines Rings (pre-1940s), Vintage Engagement Rings (1940s-1970s) and aesthetics with comfort, with a play on contrasts – such as straight Vintage-Style Engagement Rings (post-1980s) – mid-Century classics lines with curved. The two connected halves of the Aion wedding alongside Edwardian, Victorian and Art Deco designs. ring line fit together to form one unit – the symbolism of two halves no accident. Available in 14/18ct white, yellow or rose gold or platinum and can be customised with exposed or hidden words or stone. Contact: [email protected]

Aurelie Dellasante Jewellery Becca Macdonald Studio Bine Roth Jewellery

This award-winning Swiss-French jewellery A background in textiles, ceramics and Bine jewellery plays with our senses with designer creates unique contemporary sculpture influences Becca’s jewellery. A the ultimate focus on movement and pieces that have been exhibited common theme throughout is documenting wearability. The designs combine strong internationally. Her last collection URBAN the 'evidence of presence' and human traces. shapes with a serene lightness of movable ANIMALS showcases a series of animals With an interest in both fluid movement and chains allowing the designs to dance on the adorned with human elements inspired by organic shape, she explores the space where body. Innovative and daring, timeless and punk culture. liquid becomes solid and hard meets soft. traditional, understated or extravagant.

Fei Liu bridal collection

Fei Liu Fine Jewellery has relaunched its bridal range, o£ering award-winning designs with a number of options to the customer: platinum, 18ct white, yellow or rose gold; mounts for a selection of the designs available with or without diamonds, in three sizes: 0.15ct, 0.25ct and 0.5ct. The rings come in a luxurious display box, featuring the Aurora, Arabella, Amara and Lily of the Valley collections, plus a Hannah Blackwood Jewellery Lukas Caspar Jewellery Vanessa Pederzani, Heirloom Jewels new design. All engagement rings have been designed to harmonise with a wedfit wedding ring. Hannah's award winning TEMPUS FUGIT The curiosity for the materials and crafts Jewellery designer and gemmologist Vanessa collection is inspired by the Memento Mori that he developed growing up defines the creates unusual, e£ervescent fine jewellery. of the 15th to 17th centuries. The aim is to basis for Lukas’ jewellery. Innovation plays There’s gentleness at times, playfulness Another Diamond… another setting inspire the wearer to live every day like it a major role in his first collection of newly and boldness at others, but all pieces have a was their last. Hannah marries traditional developed stone cuts, clever catches and distinctive craftsmanship and unpredictable An innovative setting has been invented by new Japanese company jewellery making with the latest CAD a patent pending technique that makes charm. Using di£erent overtones of Another Diamond, together with diamond tool manufacturer, techniques in the creation of her pieces. symbols and images magically appear on diamonds, and coloured , she Kitagawa Diamond Industrial. The world’s first single-point diamond some pieces. moulds precious war helmets, corsets, bats setting on a gold or platinum ring sees diamonds not needing to and scorpions – unique jewels, like miniature be claw-set. The diamond can be seen from every angle – with no art pieces. restrictions on varieties of diamond shapes new jewellery designs are possible. The contemporary lines of Another Diamond’s brushed Each designer will receive a bursary funded directly by the Benevolent Society, to assist with London transport and accommodation white and yellow gold pieces – now being marketed in the UK – honour the natural diamonds’ characteristics, the polish retaining the costs, plus the opportunity to join the NAJ. Over the past 10 years, the initiative has helped more than 85 designers launch their original rough shape. Each piece is one of a kind. anotherdiamond.jp careers and get an all-important foot in the door. KickStart alumni have gone on to have impressive careers in the jewellery sector. 38 IRV The Jeweller June 2019 IRV 39

What does attendance at the 2019 conference include?

The Conference Package Fees includes meals Conference but not overnight accommodation (delegates 2 19must book this direct with the venue), starting from £428 plus VAT for members, including:

• Keynote presentations on each day, and The Association’s largest meeting opportunity selected supporting presentations this year will be opening its doors on the 14th • Six 90-minute workshops across the September, and in its 29th year it promises to Saturday, Sunday and Monday • Opportunities to purchase instruments and be bigger and better than ever. books • Valuation software skills surgery

rganisers of the very popular post-loss assessment, Capital Gains Tax, • Access to the Gemstone Market Loughborough Conference gemstone pricing and colour grading. • Refreshments throughout the conference, have titled the weekend three lunches and two dinners (with wine) event: ‘adding value to your Keynote speakers include: jewellery journey’, resulting • A Welcome Reception (with wine) in more keynote talks and practical sessions • Kerry Gregory lined up to help individuals and businesses • Rosamond Clayton • Entry into a conference raffle (additional tickets will be available to purchase at the prosper, both technically and commercially. • Harriet Kelsall conference) Building on previous years, guest speakers • Steve Carson will take delegates through technical topics • Ginnie and Leo De Vroomen Non-members can also attend for an such as designer and antique jewellery, additional £125 plus VAT per person, and part diamond testing, gem identification Held at the University of Loughborough, attendance is also available for 1 or 2 days. (including , , and ), nestled in the well-connected East Midlands, silver and hallmarking. Exciting keynotes the conference venue benefits from an “This event is informative, educational and on how to market and protect your business on-site, four-star hotel forming an inclusive entertaining – you really shouldn’t miss it. also form part of the line-up. On site, the location for new and returning conference Just ask the delegates who have been coming conference will also be running practical attendees. The 2019 Conference has 25 every year for the last 25 years or more!” workshops on valuation and appraisal workshops in total, six of which sessions can Whether, you want to learn something for £75 plus VAT, which includes the methodology, covering image enhancement, be chosen for delegates to attend., with each about a fashion house, how to identify green rest of the day’s programme, lunch and valuation software packages, probate, lasting for 90-minutes. gemstones, promote your business on the refreshments. FIRVs Shirley Mitchell internet or embellish your valuations with and Tim Bicknell will run through what a quality images we’ll have a workshop for valuer does in their day-to-day business to you – not to mention others covering topics give an insight into this specialised aspect you may not have even thought of. The 2019 of the jewellery trade. conference is setup to have something for everyone, whether you’ve been in the trade for more years than you care to mention or have only recently joined – the Loughborough Conference has it all. Retail Therapy

In addition to the workshops the event Between talks and workshops and before ensures an invaluable networking opportunity the evening meals, delegates will have Frank Wood, PTSI Chair said: “We welcome with dinners and breakout sessions built into time to visit exhibitors in the Gemstone everybody to this popular event, both from the weekend’s activities. Delegates will also Market. The Gemmological Association the UK jewellery industry and colleagues have the chance to debate and discuss trade- will o£er attendees the opportunity to from around the world. One of the key related issues of importance to them and to components of the event is our range of the trade as a whole. purchase books and instruments from workshops from lecture-based talks to ‘get selected suppliers, and gemstones will be For enquiries contact Sandra Page: down and dirty’ hands-on sessions. My Entry routes into the world of appraisal available from selected dealers. Further 029 2081 3615/ advice would be to book these up early as are held as part of the conference, with a exhibitors are set to join the line up in due [email protected] / space is limited.” ‘Welcome to Valuing’ session on the Sunday course. naj.co.uk/conference 40 Book Reviews The Jeweller

If our feature on Takes just 2 minutes enamelling (p52) has to assemble! whet your appetite to The Art of learn more about the art, two recently published

books on the subject Allow your wedding collections to sparkle Costs just should satisfy. from every angle in the best possible light £1499.99 using our Mobile Jewellery Showcase Exc VAT & Delivery Enamelling featuring Linea LED Lighting. ActivWhite technology is available on request, allowing you to control the colour temperature of the in-cabinet lights via the Smartlight App. Includes: > Detachable legs & light bridge > Solid Oak Construction > Weighs 27kg > Fits on the back seat of most cars > High security lock & toughened glass > 4m cable & plug 01530 382500 www.progressivedisplay.co.uk [email protected] Part of the Parify Group

Portrait by Gillie Hoyte Byrom Secure Safe working with Chubbsafes for The Practice of Painting in Enamel Engraving and Enamelling – The Art of Champlevé your security. By Gillie Hoyte Byrom By Phil Barnes (£45 plus p+p, enamelpainting.co.uk) (£18.99, Crowood Press)

Gillie Hoyte Byrom, a member of the British Society of Enamellers, This book o£ers a further insight into an ancient art by another is, in the view of V&A curator Richard Edgcumbe, ‘a virtuoso’ of award-winning master craftsperson. Drawing on his 50 years of Investing in the correct security solution is one an attack for varying lengths of time, It’s important to remember that all safes need painting, ‘a teacher of exemplary clarity’. She’s won experience in enamel work, Barnes gives a background to the history of the key methods to keeping your valuables dependent on their certification. to be installed and fitted professionally to meet numerous awards for her work, including several Goldsmiths’ Craft & of enamelling before explaining champlevé itself. Literally meaning secure in any retail environment. with insurance companies’ approval. Secure Design Council top prizes, such as the extremely prestigious Jacques ‘raised field’, it involves the creation of a cell, which is then filled with The valuables rating for a safe, dependent fitting and installation are a determining factor Cartier Award. enamel. While there are many ways to make the cells, Barnes creates The critical issue for jewellery stores and on grade, ranges from £60,000 to £1.5m. when it comes to a claim. his by hand-engraving, which adds textures and refracts the light. other high-value retail shops, is ensuring that Always check with your insurance company This richly illustrated book is the only one devoted to her art. After intruders leave the premises, without taking with regards to what rating is required. At Secure Safe we have all security products a brief introduction and history of enamel painting, Gillie o£ers a Bringing the subject to fascinating life he then goes on to describe or damaging any stock. This is successfully ranging from safes, CCTV and entry systems to comprehensive run-down of the practicals – tools, health & safety, one of his pieces in particular (the bowl on the book’s cover), starting accomplished by taking away the intruder’s A comprehensive lock range is available for meet your needs. materials and setting up of a workshop. In great detail she covers the with design inspiration (a seashore walk in this case) and leading ability to access the valuables easily and Chubbsafes products. Features include time palette, the two categories of onglaze painting colours and adds her us through the very many processes until it reaches its completion. undetected. lock, time delay, multiple users, duress code For NAJ members a special 5% price own personal views and preferences, advantages and disadvantages. Step-by-step images take the would-be practitioner through and can also be linked to access control. reduction will be provided with the code NAJ everything from cutting tools to suit di£erent needs (one size Installing a Chubbsafes graded safe along and membership number. With very clear photographs to illustrate, the instructions go on to definitely doesn’t fit all hands) and which tools are used for di£erent with CCTV, security doors or windows, helps A safe wont only protect cash and jewellery cover mediums and tools, before looking at the various enamelling e£ects, to transferring designs, making the first cuts, testing and protect your property from the losses and – multiple industries have important, and techniques. For those interested in taking up this art, the unstinting working with enamels (so very much more complicated than the lay subsequent down time that follows a break in. confidential documents, which they don’t Visit: www.securesafe.co.uk attention to detail is invaluable; for collectors, enthusiasts, art person might imagine) and even how to prepare a quill. want to be destroyed or fall into the wrong lovers… it’s simply awe-inspiring. The author herself admits that Certified safes and security rated doors will, hands. A combined burglary- and fire- Contact: [email protected] it’s ‘a diŠcult and complex subject’. Miniature portraits being her Running throughout, alongside the sequence photos, are images of despite the intruders’ efforts with invasive and resistant safe from Chubbsafes is the perfect speciality (she’s made around 600), Gillie o£ers in-depth instruction Barnes’ beautiful work – some his own private pieces, some show highly damaging tools, be able to withstand place for storing such documents. Tel: 01223 654757 on techniques, before showing beautiful examples of her own work, pieces created for jewellers such as Elizabeth Gage and De Vroomen including incredible advanced portraits. Design. Inspirational as well as informative. 42 Security News The Jeweller

It has increased the number of sta£ working on compliance SaferGems Good activity to provide greater support to those businesses and can carry out nearly 80 per cent more interventions. The interventions 10 Years of Crime Prevention! allow HMRC to assess how well businesses are complying with News Story their MLR responsibilities and that they are suitably protected In April two men visited a SaferGems member’s store in from those who would try to exploit them in the name of illicit Edinburgh. Sta£ recognised the men from a SaferGems Alert and profit. called local Police. Since 2009, the vital intelligence shared by you via SaferGems, has led to criminals being identified, HMRC introduced a fees structure to meet the preferences of Having visited various jewellers in Edinburgh, the suspects the majority of those businesses who responded to its recent arrested & even prevented from committing serious offences against the UK Jewellery Trade. eventually purchased a diamond and bracelet from a discussion document. It proposed three funding models and non-SaferGems member’s store. Following a police search they introduced a mix of the two most popular – retaining its existing were spotted, detained and arrested. One was in possession of model for most businesses and introducing a lower, turnover- Law enforcement agencies in the US & a rucksack containing the fraudulently obtained necklace and based fee for the smallest businesses. The HMRC keeps all its fees under review In the last year bracelet, and a number of what is believed to be cloned credit Canada with the identification of a number

cards. of Eastern European crime gangs. Alert: A £125K penalty was issued to a jeweller recently under the SaferGems has assisted: 2007 MLRs. SaferGems assisted the arresting police oŠcer (a long-standing supporter of SaferGems) with the investigation. Sixteen Police in identifying criminals from Eastern SaferGems member stores across England reported being Europe responsible for the theft of a visited by these two men during March 2019. All were vigilant Sussex Police in identifying an international £35,000 ring from a store in Epsom. and refused to accept the cloned non-chip & pin credit cards the The Case For Physical jewel thief responsible for theft of a suspects were attempting to use. £69,000 ring from a store in Brighton. Hampshire Police with the investigation of Entry Barriers a serial fraudster responsible for a series of According to a British Retail Consortium survey, the total direct West Mercia Police in the recovery of a fraudulent 'Vanilla Gift Card' transactions at cost of criminal activity against stores is now £700m a year. The stolen £30,000 ring and arrested a prolific stores across England & Wales. Whatsapp Group Alert figures indicate a sharp rise in violence against sta£ causing jewellery thief. injury, with the number of incidents equivalent to 13 people being While SaferGems is the proven successful initiative to tackle injured each day. North Yorkshire & Greater Manchester jewellery industry crime, some retailers have additionally formed Police with the recovery of a stolen watch WhatsApp groups to pass on information of potential criminal Metropolitan and Thames Valley Police with Protecting businesses e£ectively relies on identifying appropriate from a store in Wigan. activity. the identification and arrest of criminals security systems, says Iain Entwistle of Meesons. A recent responsible for a number of high value innovation in enhanced robustness against forced attack is Those in such groups should be aware that they may be in breach prestige watch thefts from stores across the Art Loss Register with the recovery of 25 security portals tested to Loss Prevention Standard (LPS) 1175. of GDPR regulations as WhatsApp processes personal data (ie South East region. stolen or lost prestige watches. Meesons recently became the first company to achieve LPS1175: phone numbers) without the data subjects’ permission. Consent Issue 7 for its C190-S1-S3 and C3-S1-S3 Security Portals. With must be given freely, ie by opting in. large glazed areas, they provide controlled access (preventing Action Fraud with the identification of ‘tailgating’) and withstand physical attack until intervention Kent Police with the arrest of a fraudster who a persistent and prolific 'Customer Not All images circulated on SaferGems’ alerts and bulletins are arrives. was using US driving licences and cloned ‘personal data’ because a person can be identified from that AMEX cards to obtain prestige watches from Present' fraudster, responsible for at image. It circulates these images without the data subject’s For a more detailed look at LPS 1175-approved physical entry stores across the South East Region. least 50 fraudulent/attempted fraudulent permission, through the lawful process of Article 6(1)(f) barriers (recommended by insurers TH March), visit www. transactions across the UK. ‘Legitimate Interest’. This requires every recipient to be bound by meesons.com an agreement, which outlines what they can and can’t do with the image, how long they can keep it, etc. All NAJ members and TH March clients are bound by the agreements when they sign up to receive SaferGems alerts. The Watch Register Since 2009 the SaferGems platform has: Over the last year SaferGems has assisted police by: O£ered by The Art Loss Register, The Watch Register is the • Recorded 8000 crimes and suspicious incidents largest database (60,000+ currently) of stolen watches available • Circulated 2500+ alerts to the industry Anti-Money for due diligence. The watch trade service registers losses that • Provided 2000+ analytical reports to Police • Providing 130+ analytical reports have been reported to it by the police, insurers, private individuals • Directly been involved in or assisted Police with at • Assisting with arrests and convictions Laundering and the trade worldwide. The database can be checked within least 150 arrests and convictions • Linking 322+ crimes and suspicious incidents minutes by pawnbrokers, watch dealers and auction houses who • Potentially prevented 1500+ crimes • Potentially preventing 150+ crimes subscribe to the service, from as little as £2 per search. One-o£ Supervision Fees Rise searches are also available upon request.

As part of a wider Government approach to strengthen the UK’s The Watch Register holds registrations for over 850 brands, response to illicit finance, HMRC has increased its anti-money manufacturers and watch makers. These include: Rolex, Omega, laundering supervision fees for businesses it supervises under the Cartier, Patek Philippe, Tag Heuer, Panerei, IWC and Chopard. Money Laundering Regulations (MLRs) from May 1st 2019. Visit www.thewatchregister.com [email protected] Be part of it... 01905 342 051 [email protected] 44 Industry News The Jeweller EXPRESS SERVICE

7 DAY IJL Calls for New host for UK

Seminar Proposals Safeguard Jewellery Awards Valuations International Jewellery London (1st-3rd September 2019) has opened its ‘Inspire’ seminar programme to submissions from Retail Jeweller has announced that Eastenders industry professionals. Launched last year, and Gavin and Stacey star, Larry Lamb, will be hosting the 2019 UK Jewellery Awards. With AnchorCert AnchorCert Birmingham the programme o£ers the trade show’s three Gem Lab Analytical Assay Office stages for discussions on issues that matter Clogau as headline sponsor, the NAJ as oŠcial supporter and 17 award categories, the Awards and trends that shape jewellery and watches. will be held on 3rd July at The Artillery Gardens IJL welcome submissions from everyone at the HAC, London. Visit https://awards.retail- across the industry; from emerging design jeweller.com/ for details of tickets. talents to established brands – all are AnchorCert DermaKind™ encouraged to take part. Visit the IJL Academy website – www.jewellerylondon.com – for the submission form, which closes on 27th June. Successful proposals will be notified at the WE MAKE end of June. London DE Launches WE PRINT Crowdfunding WE DRAW Reviewers Sought This May diamond jewellery business (and NAJ Award winner) London DE launched WE ARE... for Diamond ID a campaign on the Seedrs crowdfunding platform. The aim is to take on new sta£ as Find out more online Machine apprentices, move to larger premises and AT YOUR SERVICE build the brand with coordinated and targeted www.anchorcertgroup.com marketing and PR campaigns. Presidium, manufacturer of diamond/ T 0207 608 0058 gemstone testing devices, seeks industry E [email protected] Computer Aided Design and Manufacture reviewers for its portable Synthetic Diamond Screener (SDS II). It’s been awarded the ASSURE Tested Certification Mark, currently the only ASSURE diamond Fuller Foundation in the trade the chance to gain an MBA or verification instrument retailing for less similar business qualification to further than US$1,000, and delivers total accuracy their career in the future management on the synthetic diamond referral rate. It’s Launches requirements of our trade.” WE WANT TO BUY YOUR suitable for loose and mounted stones, The Benevolent Society, the British Allied including melees as small as 0.02ct, and Trades Federation’s charity, has launched CLIENT’S LUXURY WATCHES can detect lab-grown from mined diamonds The Fuller Foundation. The legacy trust Over 30 years of experience buying & selling luxury watches in two seconds. The SDS II is available for supports individuals looking to advance a one-month free road test in return for within a company, to enable a managerial or a review that Presidium can post online. directorate level change to both individual To take part, contact Facets on london@ and company, through the study and facetspr.com. application of continuing professional FREE Valuation - No minimum order development, training and/or education. Free registration, no subscription fees This new initiative is administered and No experience needed – we provide Ethical managed by the Society in addition to its knowledge and expertise existing bursary support for individuals Gold Launch wishing to advance their careers. Immediate decisions and instant profi ts withwww.goldsmithsnorth.com no risks Patrick Fuller said: “This is an exciting Speedywww.goldsmithsnorth.com transaction – payment to you Family-run Betts Metals has launched an opportunity to give a younger individual within the hour exclusive range of Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold jewellery products, for the same Insured postage paid by BQW (insured up price as ordinary gold. The 24-carat ethical to £15,000) Contemporary Silverware & Jewellery SMO gold comes in the form of wedding SellingContemporary Fair Silverware & Jewellery and casting rings, sheet, wire and grain. Closer to home, the Antwerp World Diamond The fully-traceable gold is sourced from the NAJ Goes Council is hosting two Antwerp Diamond Selling Fair Yanfollia Mine in West Africa, a sustainable, Experiences this year: 16th-18th July for UK Friday 12th to Sunday 14th July 2019 IT REALLY IS THIS SIMPLE… so call or email us now ethical mining operation “far exceeding Outward Bound invitees and 23rd-24th October for European AtFriday the Cutlers’ 12th to SundayHall, Sheffield 14th July 2019 international best practice”. The gold is (and UK) delegates. With accommodation, meals CUTLERS’ HALL SHEFFIELD At the Cutlers’ Hall, Sheffield refined without coming into contact with The Association is planning a Fairtrade/ and educational visits provided, the AWDC any other gold. Each SMO gold one-ounce Fairmined trip to Peru this Autumn and will be responsible for the selection process; CUTLERS’ HALL SHEFFIELD Left David Fowkes Right Adam Veevers wedding ring and casting ring carries the welcomes expressions of interest from diamond buyers (designer/retail/manufacturer) We also buy: Left David Fowkes Right Adam VeeversCall: +44 (0)203 538 5132 industry members. The proposed visit to are welcome to apply. For information on all trips Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Cartier, Franck Muller, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger SMO stamp and comes with a free SMO LeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe and other Luxury Watches. Email: [email protected] brochure for consumers. gold mines and cultural sites will be for 7-10 contact the NAJ’s Lindsey Straughton: lindsey. www.singlemine.com. days from around 20th October 2019. [email protected] Follow us: Facebook / Twitter / Instagram BQ Watches, BQW House, 1 Back Lane, Edgware, Middlesex HA8 0HS | [email protected] | bqwatches.com

Advert_TheJeweller_HP_Oct18.indd 1 18/09/2018 09:22:01

8005 Jeweller ISSUE17 Sept-oct MASTER inner_AW2.indd 29 28/09/2018 17:04 46 Business Advice The Jeweller 47 Introducing the Better Business Toolbox

jewellery industry. Success stories are also Here we go then – a major milestone for the Association being shared back into our membership in its agenda to support companies of all shapes and community in order to highlight just what is possible.” sizes be ‘fit for the future’. The Better Business ‘movement’ is overseen In business, companies generally start out On oŠcially launching the Better Business by a committee of representatives from across the Association’s membership with a single inspirational enthusiastic initiative, Harriet Kelsall, NAJ chair, said: structure, chaired by Paul Greer of Bentley person (or partnership) with the drive and & Skinner. The group has undergone some ambition to try to control their own destiny. “Better Business will give you the basics change as part of the NAJ’s governance Discounted online training Over time the business will continually be like a sample contract, information on the evolution, but originally started out by challenged as the economy ebbs and flows, living wage, how to manage your finances courses for BATF identifying a need to o£er sound and or, as the company expands and they take or how to source more responsibly, but it’s practical support for member companies. iHasco, market-leading provider of on more sta£. Also, companies and people much more than just a reference guide; Over the last 18 months, the committee has Health & Safety and HR Compliance trading with can also change a business it’s a movement which we at the NAJ are developed a framework built on three key eLearning, is o£ering 20 per cent landscape, and what was once considered trailblazing. pillars: Doing Right, Doing Well and Doing discount on its training courses and good practice could need an update. Good. packages for British Allied Trades

“If you always do what you’ve always done, Federation members. iHasco has A new area of the NAJ’s member website is you will always get what you’ve always got. Doing Right is focused on being compliant over 12,000 UK clients, over 2.7m now devoted to o£ering practical and useful Better Business pushes members slightly – following the letter of the law training sessions delivered to date guidance to member companies to ensure out of their comfort zones and challenges Doing Well is focused on being profitable – and a course library of over 80 they stay the right side of the law, keep them to hold up what they’re doing against delivering commercial success A wealth of informative links and templates members fulfill their potential, never mind our courses. up-to-date with changes in the supply chain examples of good practice, in order to find Doing Good is focused on being sustainable exist for members to use and apply to their ‘fit for the future’ mission. Better Business is a and access to promotions to help achieve out whether they’re fit for the future and – anticipating and managing external risk business, but what if you don’t know what form of an MOT but it’s down to the member to The majority of eLearning modules a profitable business. ‘Better Business’ is figure out how to be prepared. you’re looking for, or even where to start? take the time to carry out the review. can be completed in under 30 split into three main categories. How to Each pillar includes toolboxes for Planning, minutes and all provide printable use them is up to you. You decide what you “We don’t want to stop at good practice, Operations, People, Sales & Marketing, As part of the password-protected area on “We’re not here to dictate, but to help. We hope certificates. They can be completed believe needs to be implemented to make Better Business also shows the way to Product & Money areas of business the NAJ website, members can login and you take what you need from these guidelines on any device, on the go, providing your company operate as a Better Business. great practice which helps all of our activities, and it’s the responsibility of the take the Better Business health check, a and hopefully you will be ahead of the curve if the user has WiFi or 4G connection. You can work at your own pace to make the members stand on the shoulders of our NAJ through its Better Business committee form of an online MOT. The health check you implement as many as you can. Despite the changes you want. experience and reach higher as a collective to keep toolboxes up to date. will help members identify where potential toolboxes living online, we don’t want this to Every course is approved by at least gaps might be and suggest specific areas of be a barrier for members to benefit. Therefore, one oŠcial Health & Safety body, ‘Better Business’ which should be explored. if members do want to take the health check, including IOSH, CPD, RoSPA, please contact us in the o”ce and we’ll be able IIRSM and CIEH. Paul Greer, Better Business chair said: to talk through an alternative solution.” Try before you buy – visit iHasco’s What’s in the ‘people’ toolbox? “The data we generate from members website for free trial access to completing the health check remains But what about great practice? courses. (www.ihasco.co.uk) confidential and allows us to identify where Doing Right -Compliance Doing well - Profitable Doing good -Sustainable the committee needs to prioritise products As an industry there are some fantastic IOSH Approved courses include: and services which will deliver a beneficial examples where companies have gone • How to hire other nationalities • Measuring performance – metric • Customer reviews on your website impact to the membership.” above and beyond a certain standard. Better • Asbestos Awareness Business also wants to regularly share these • COSHH • How to hire interns, apprentices and samples • Training (investment in people) Over time the NAJ will use the Better success stories with the membership. • Driver Awareness Training volunteers • Health & Safety guidance • Mental health policy Business health check to develop research • DSE Training • Why use a freelancer vs employee • Induction programme templates • Ethical policy on contracts on subjects where members are confirming Each month a new success story harvested • Environmental Awareness • Sample employment contracts practice is, and is not, in place, and • Training and education policies • Safety education from the membership will feature in the • Fire Awareness • Ensuring equality and diversity continually provide Association members monthly e-bulletin, free to all. Recent entries • Hand Arm Vibration Awareness • Sta£ incentive suggestions – • Public interest or pro bono work - with the support they need. into the blog have included ‘Giving Feels • Health & Safety Essentials • Legislation on full time, part time retention employees doing charity work of choice Better Than Winning’ from Elliot Brown • LOLER Training and zero-hour contracts • Investors in people accreditation • Diversity practice The Better Business toolkit and health Watches and ‘The World of Jewellery • Manual Handling • Working hours (guidance) • Flexible working policy check is the first of its type o£ered by a Upcycling’ from Kerry Gregory. • Mental Health Awareness • How to pay your employees • Appraisal form templates trade association. • Unlimited holiday entitlement • Noise Awareness • Following wage requirements • Using freelancers and staying The Better Business committee and team • PPE • Parental rights policies NAJ CEO Simon Forrester said: supporting it openly invite members’ news, • Staying legal with pensions profitable • Risk Assessments • How to promote sustainable behaviours views and stories regarding the Better • Slips, Trips and Falls • Commitments for training • Account platforms directory • IT purchase schemes “As the trade association for the jewellery Business initiative, which should in the first • Stress Awareness • Template grievance procedure industry, we have a responsibility to support instance be emailed to [email protected]. • Working at Height 48 Industry News The Jeweller June 2019 Industry News 49

Only 11-15 per cent of metals are currently recovered from e-waste. While 30g of gold is recoverable from a tonne of ore, we can obtain 300g from a tonne of e-waste. Dr Wilson outlined the three current methods of metal recovery:

• Pyrometallurgy – industrial smelting of e-waste. Few centres can do this globally. There’s a big CO2 issue, but it’s cheaper than the conventional mining process

• Hydrometallurgy – using aqueous acidic solutions to recover waste –good on smaller, local scale and no transportation issues.

• Biometallurgy – using bacteria and yeasts to recover precious metals. Molecular gold panning using acids.

Dr Wilson suggested a new chain of custody mark for jewellery made The Gapfrom e-waste, believing there’s lots of scope to scale this up. Japan’s Olympic Organising Committee has commitmed to produce all medals from e-waste. Simon Forrester reports from Fair Luxury’s Making Impact Symposium at EdinburghLuxur University y

dinburgh University’s Emily Auckland, chair of UK SSD, presented local economies in developing countries. classical sculpture-filled a summary of the UK’s progress against The PACT/GIA ‘Mines to Markets’ West Court Lecture Theatre the goals, and the targets underpinning programme helps artisanal and small-scale is an imposing venue. them. Sadly we’re currently on track to miners understand the true value of what However, the artefacts’ achieve just a quarter of the 169 targets, they are extracting. A pilot programme age belied the tenor of the discussion at so she asked us to consider our impact on in Tanzania had great success through EFair Luxury’s event which looked firmly to the wider world, and change how we work developing a free hard-wearing gem guide the future, and was packed with thought- and live in order to make a di£erence. for miners, coupled with a simple tray to provoking content delivered to an eager Perhaps encourage our suppliers to adopt help sort gemstones, which previously had audience of makers, manufacturers, and even more sustainable business practices. As been sold relatively unsorted, resulting the odd retailer. individuals (and SMEs) our impact may be in lost income for the community. www. small, but through working with others we SustainableGemstones.org Fair Luxury was formed six years ago can maximise positive benefits. to understand Fairtrade/Fairmined and Designer Hannah Bedford confirmed exchange knowledge. Once established, IoG’s Ebba Goring explained the detailed that customers do ask about the source area/better-business The audience was very it wanted to share its discoveries… as now. resources available via its website www. of jewellery. They look to our industry receptive to the idea of a framework against We were welcomed by Mary Michel from ethicalmaking.org and encouraged for reassurance – it’s our job to provide it. which to measure businesses, and to track the Incorporation of Goldsmiths (IoG), delegates to pledge to make five positive Customers love to see how their jewellery is progress in achieving sustainability goals. who introduced the UN’s 17 Sustainable changes. As Scotland’s oldest consumer made or repaired – they want to buy into the

Development Goals; the framework for protection group, the Incorporation led story. If possible, feature a bench in plain Dr Sandra Wilson Duncan of Jordanstone government, business and individuals the push to incorporate ethical making view, or maybe show videos of jewellery College of Art & Design said the next gold designed to move everyone out of poverty, into every Scottish art college education you sell being made, or stone cutting and rush will be in landfill. Over the last 6,000 lifting the most deprived first. programme, the first country worldwide to polishing. Don’t be afraid to o£er some years of mining gold, we’ve extracted do this. The initiative involves the sole use fairtrade/fairmined products; the rest of just over 171,000 metric tonnes, but half The day centred around this framework, of Fairtrade/Fairmined metals, supported by your stock won’t be judged – you’re simply this extraction has been in the last 15 and in particular quality education and the IoG and the Pearson Silver Foundation, o£ering a choice. years to meet increasing demand from responsible consumption/production. A changing how students view this topic, how the electronics sector; for the first time in piece of jewellery will pass through many they work, and so changing the commercial I spoke about the NAJ’s latest Better human history we’re starting to consume hands and many countries, and the day really sphere when they leave. Business initiative (see p47 for full details), gold. With only around 52,000 tonnes yet made you consider the global perspective and how the Association supports start-ups to mine on an economically viable level, of what we do; the positive and negative Stuart Pool from Nineteen48 presented through our new Foundation membership we’ll need to go back to waste electronics to impacts of our actions. initiatives to support artisanal miners and category. https://www.naj.co.uk/member- source gold. June 2019 Industry News 51

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QUESTIONS... hris Sangster from Scotgold We heard a presentation from Fashion manufacturers, makers and retailers, we www.scotgoldresources. Revolution, who asked the question “who can help motivate the value chain to use CAD designers. Model Makers, com explained the small made your jewellery?” If you don’t know, their business as a positive force for change. high-grade deposit of gold how can you tell if it’s ethically sourced, She felt it was great to see the focus on Master Craftsmen, and silver near Cononish, and what will you tell your customers? This experimentation, and the questioning side of on a 4,200 km2 estate where it’s possible initiative started after a clothing factory in making ethical products. Delegates should Students and Jewellers Cto pan gold from the burns. The chain of Bangladesh collapsed, killing over 1,000 start small and grow tall – don’t be shy or custody is handled via Edinburgh Assay people. The people who make our goods intimidated. Ask “where do my ’ingredients’ Proudly Testing and Hallmarking since 1773 We all rely on good, solid castings. OŠce. Leftover rock is carried away in are invisible to us. Perhaps your business come from”, inspire consumers to ask and be If you don’t, maybe it’s water, and allowed to settle out in dams. should show its customers how their ready with a clear answer. Sheffield Analytical Services is comprehensively Water is removed and damp ‘sand’ placed purchasing decisions are having a positive equipped to offer an extremely wide range of testing time to start asking questions. into natural looking glacial forms around impact. www.fashionrevolution.org CASTING? 10m high. Longer term, the mine will have a and analytical services: life span of 8-15 years; and a Heritage centre is planned to provide local employment. Estelle Levin-Nally from Levin Sources Estelle’s five tips: • testing (assaying) and hallmarking Silver, Gold, www.jewellerycastingscotland.com The intention is to make the gold available summarised. Scotland leads the jewellery Platinum, and mixed metals. to a range of makers longer term. Currently ethical discussion. There are significant • the beauty in an act of • undertaking traditional marking, laser marking and Sheila Fleet and Hamilton & Inches are the challenges for the mineral extraction sustainability sole recipients. sector, and by working with refiners and laser engraving PRACTICALLY ANY METAL • Design out waste wherever you can • private assays and full valuation service with the Eco, Sterling & , expertise of The Guild of Valuers and Jewellers • Don’t be complacent or accept the • collection service for your work 9ct, 14ct, 18ct in all colours, status quo. Don’t accept no for an White, Yellow and Red , answer Guardian's Hall 0114 231 2121 Gold Production Beulah Road info@assayoffice.co.uk and Platinum! Just ask! • Make sustainability at the heart of all you do – it’s your own process, Sheffield, assayoffice.co.uk THE WORLD’S own it S6 2AN 50% 65% BIGGEST 80% of gold goes into is new-mined gold mine is of the world’s gold • Create a business manifesto and UKAS accreditation (0012) to ISO 17025 standard 01583 431683 jewellery production, the actually a is produced using promote that to your value chain balance is recycled mine in Indonesia! cyanide and customer base [email protected]

52 At the Bench The Jeweller June 2019 At the Bench 53

Mizuki Takahashi (Sgrafitto)

To get a bench-close view of the Why did you choose the sgraffito technique? SgraŠto allows me to have a similar expression and format of the enamelling process The Jeweller line drawings and mark-makings, which I worked with initially on spoke to Worcestershire-based paper. It’s such a simple technique yet the outcome is boundless. I like using di£erent sizes of tools to scratch o£ the dried enamel contemporary jewellery artist and surface, adding depth to the simplicity. BSoE member Mizuki Takahashi: How long did it take to perfect it? I was introduced to it at college and a visiting enameller, Jessica When did you start enamelling? Turrel, taught us for two days, which I really enjoyed. When I started enamelling, I struggled to make an even surface finish. After lots It was when I was in my course at Hereford College of attempts in application, drying, the firing method and the right All You Need to tools, I think I’ve found my ideal way so far to work, though I’m still of Arts – I graduated in 2014. Since then I keep using this technique to create my jewellery work. Enamelled elements are the main feature learning every day. in the design. Does enamelling mean ‘lots of trial and error’? What drew you to it? Definitely lots of error, it can ruin your whole day! Though thanks Know About… It was the materiality and texture. At college I was drawn particularly to those errors, I’ve got the right consistency of enamel, firing to wet-process enameling – it really is like a dipping glaze for temperature and timing in my making. Good concentration in each ceramics, which I was also working with. Depending on the firing process is basic, but very much needed in order to not ruin the final time and temperature, it emerges with less of a gloss finish, which outcome! I really like. Wet process enamel is ideal for me as it coats over complex, three-dimensional surfaces, which I wanted to work into my I’m also working with enamel paint techniques to help create a closer jewellery design. resemblance on enameled surfaces to my brush stroke drawings Enamelling on paper. I now feel comfortable limiting colours and playing more Drawing is my essential creative process and enamelling helps me to with marks and surface expression. And there are more possibilities, achieve a similar outcome, yet you cannot control it perfectly, which styles and expressions to be found – it excites me to keep working he milestone has been paying o£. And BSoE’s new values have, gives me joy to discover when it comes out of the kiln. with these materials and techniques. As the British marked by the recent memorably, been announced as Brilliant, appointment of jewellery Supportive, Open and Engaging. Society of designer and Mona Pink Enamellers (BSoE) T founder, Monika Kamycka, “Enamelling has been classed as ‘currently as the Society’s chair – a unanimous vote viable art’ by the Heritage Crafts following her successful year as vice chair. Association, but that it doesn’t mean it’s Jesus Marrero (Cloisonné) Gillie Hoyte Byrom (Painted/Grisaille) celebrates its risk-free,” says Kamycka. “We’re seeing Under Kamycka’s leadership the BSoE a renewed interest in enamelling as our 35th anniversary has realised a number of achievements, membership grows and we’ve launched this year, we take including a full review of membership new initiatives to share members’ work benefits, evaluation of website and social online and o¿ine, including regular themed a closer look at media platforms and renewed focus on Online Exhibitions. member and follower engagement. The this beautiful and Society’s founder, and first chair, Maureen “Enamelling could be a long-term Carswell, continues to play an active role on sustainable art if more colleges ran varied art. the Committee, as membership secretary. specialist enamel courses and workshops – there are so few today. Online learning Gratifyingly the BSoE has seen significant options would make them even more membership increases, so the new mission accessible and I know there are discussions – to connect, inspire, support and promote in the industry around enamelling Cara Murphy (Basse-Taille) the professional enamelling community – is apprenticeships, which is great!” Jane Moore (Champlevé) 54 At the Bench The Jeweller June 2019 Jet Business Network 55

Monika Kamycka (Plique-à-Jour)

Even those at for one-on-one, informal group interaction, and for having access to a congregation of CEOs in a unique group setting.” In today’s the TOP need parlance ‘networking’. Being too busy is no excuse for not changing your diet –

nourishment, we all manage to find time (sometimes selfishly) for the things we regard as being important and YOUR performance says Michael Donaldson should be just as important as the business performance. Otherwise you may become another victim of the Peter Principle. That’s the principle where members of a hierarchy are promoted until they reach the level Enamelling at which they are no longer competent, For more information everything they know and regard as tried What’s your diet like? Are you getting Yet, bosses don’t like to share such apparent and trusted no longer works in the more on the British Society the necessary food for health, growth weaknesses and vulnerabilities particularly challenging situations. They have reached of Enamellers, visit: and success? Are you building your to those who may exploit them. Anxiety their “level of incompetence” and seen their immune system to cope with the pressure, and sleepless nights over an issue or last promotion. http://enamellers.org/ uncertainty and change? required decision can take on gargantuan Terms proportions of uncontrollable aspects. How So, ensure you nourish your personal and If you are in a responsible position you have often have you gone home worrying about professional lives and avoid becoming a responsibility to yourself, your family, your a member of your team that did something another Peter! Enamel is essentially glass, ground to a powder then fired on to a metal base, usually gold, business and your employees – physically, wrong, when it’s them that should be silver, copper, aluminium or steel. The ground glass is a combination of silica and soda ash, emotionally and professionally; and if you worrying about you? Dietary Advice that will improve with a small amount of metal oxides for colour, which is fused to the metal using a kiln or neglect yourself there is every chance that your health, growth and success: torch. Firings can take from 30 seconds to several minutes, with the kiln heated between those around you will also su£er. “Loneliness does not come from having no 650°C and 1000°C, depending on techniques and materials used. people around, but from being unable to communicate the things that seem important 1. Control your diary – don’t let it These feelings of responsibility tend to be control you more acute in smaller businesses where to oneself, or from holding certain views Sifting Plique-à-jour which others find inadmissible.” often the MD or CEO is the owner and main 2. Invest in improving your own Carl Jung decision maker, and mistakes can be costly, performance – not just the Sifting (or dusting) is the process of The enamel is fired into an open framework even to the extent of threatening everything performance of the business dropping and catching falling enamel – the result resembling stained glass. It is they’ve worked for – mortgage, school fees, Who is going to tell you that you particles. The control factors are mesh size particularly beautiful with light shining holidays, and the continuation of the family are no longer making something 3. Don’t assume 20 years’ experience of the enamel; mesh size of the screen; the through the transparent or translucent business. No one else in smaller businesses better – just different? is the answer – it may be one years’ load of the sifter; the size and shape of the enamels. tends to feel that isolation in decision- experience twenty times over surface to be covered; the use or non-use of making. Peer-to-peer groups like the JBN are more a holding agent; the desired pattern and the Painted enamel or Grisaille than a collection of problem solvers or 4. Create work free zones – manage your application evenness. “It is no longer about the lone male hero advisors, they (can be) groups of confidants holidays and weekends Traditionally very finely ground metallic receiving applause for solving everyone’s who support and challenge, listen and Cloisonné oxides are painted onto a white enamel base problems. Leaders need to allow those debate, guide and nourish you. 5. Network – find people who you can with fine brushes and fired, layer upon layer. around them to shine, stop being fearful of relate to and commit the time and The enamel is contained within wire cells The process can produce a detailed three- saying ‘I don’t know’, and allow di¤erent Thomas Chapman’s dissertation on CEOs e£ort to building trusting, supportive (cloisons), which are usually fired onto a dimensional quality. Grisaille is also painted, voices and opinions to be heard.” in the health service concludes “that CEOs relationships like those in the JBN base coat of clear transparent enamel, then but reversed: the background is black or Dr Jutta Tobias, Cranfield University perceive high value in being with other CEOs have done. filled with wet enamel, often applied with a dark blue and the images applied in various Judit Patkos (Experimental) quill in layers. The piece is fired after each densities of white for a chiaroscuro e£ect. layer has been applied. Sgraffito Champlevé • Monthly Performance Reports - enabling • New Flash Service – receive relevant An unfired layer of enamel is applied over you to benchmark your business against business and Industry articles straight to Recesses in the form of patterns or designs a previously fired layer of enamel of a other retail jewellers your inbox are carved or etched into the metal and the contrasting colour, and then partly removed enamel is wet packed into these areas. with a tool to create the design. • Online Q&AForum – whether you have a • Member Business Surveys – on topics business issue or just seek guidance. You identified by the members ask the question and the members answer Basse-taille Stencilling For an annual subscription of • Plus the opportunity to influence and shape £850, you and your business • Educational Store Visits – allow you to see the content of the Annual Oxford Congress An extension of champlevé, the recesses are A stencil is placed over the work and the and hear what other jewellers are doing engraved with patterns or carved with a low powdered enamel is sifted over the top. The will benefit from the shared • For further information visit the NAJ • Regional Group Meetings – to discuss the relief – seen as varying densities of colour stencil is removed before firing, the enamel knowledge, experience and website or call Michael Donaldson through the transparent enamel. staying in a slightly raised pattern. Debbie King (Sifting) issues and opportunities they face, as well on: 07817 305 122 or email: michael@ expertise of the JBN – Retail via: as develop new business skills thevalueinnovator.co.uk 56 Business Advice The Jeweller June 2019 Business Advice 57

passing through the building on any given Run by librarian and curator Emma day, but there’s no sense of frenzied stress Paragreen (a past winner of the NAJ’s JET among team members. Bransom Award), it welcomes visitors, whether they are students, researchers, “Our previous building was across five collectors, groups or clients with levels with lots of narrow corridors; it was commercial requirements. Can’t make it in harder to communicate there,” explains person? Emma o£ers a free enquiry service Assay Master Ashley Carson. “We now – when she’s not giving talks and tours of Sheffield Assay have, essentially, three departments in one the Assay OŠce, as well as its stupendous (very big) room. The flow of work is more collection of some 1,000 items of silver and eŠcient – this building works well.” He’s silver plate dating back to 1773 and added well placed to make such (and many other) to every year by a specially commissioned comparisons, having started work at piece. SheŠeld Assay oŠce in 1977 and risen Assay OŠce progress Office Making has also been prompted by changes We have very talented and hard-working within the industry itself, adapting to the guys here that the industry should know trade’s movements and the needs of its Mark about. They are the heroes. clients. “We’re aligning the business with particular “I like to use a metaphor of windows,” says If you know about hallmarking, you’ll know the developments,” industry consultant Helen Dimmick, who is through various departments, eventually explains Carson. “SheŠeld Assay OŠce is a new Guardian at the Assay OŠce and has four UK Assay O–ces, but it’s fair to say that some becoming, at 32, its youngest Assay Master experiencing significant percentage growth been working with the team on various sta£ in 1993. in 18ct gold and platinum hallmarking have higher profiles than others. She–eld – home and customer-facing initiatives. “Of course figures and as such we’re working hard to there are no actual windows where the of the rose and the marks – deserves closer He’s clearly witnessed (and presided over) provide a quality service to support the assaying work is carried out, but we want to many key developments and changes challenges and nuances of the UK jewellery create a window on to the business, so that inspection. Belinda Morris took the tour. in that time – some common to all four market. Our service has to match the people can see what goes on. We have very Assay OŠces, such as the introduction fineness of what we are hallmarking.” talented and hard-working guys here that of the mixed metal hallmark, date-letters the industry should know about. They are becoming voluntary and palladium The wealth of experience across the Belt and braces are being added to this the heroes,” she adds. hile it may not be as ancient Which makes it particularly interesting becoming the fourth recognised precious departments – from receipt and dispatch roster of care, by Helen Dimmick, who is as the London Assay OŠce to discover that these days there are any metal. Other changes and initiatives have to XRF analysis of the purity of precious working on innovative sta£ training and Eleven years ago the Assay OŠce moved (700 years old and counting) number of London-based businesses who been more specific to SheŠeld. Laser metals, hallmarking, press, hand and laser client-focused initiatives – investing in the W from its last in a run of central city there’s been an Assay OŠce in actually choose to send their precious marking was introduced in 1997 and marking and examination – ensures that team that is already in place. “High trust SheŠeld since 1773, when local locations, to the large, airy, purpose-built management style is a tool I work with to goods up to West Yorkshire to be assayed. updated, versatile, highly accurate fibre quality is kept high. In 1982 the SheŠeld Guardians Hall in the Hillsborough area of joined forces with Birmingham petitioners laser machines brought in two years ago. Assay oŠce bolstered its reputation for train individuals on how trust is essential to And some clients have seriously major SheŠeld. The vast, open-plan, light-filled And SheŠeld Assay OŠce is rightly proud protecting customers and manufacturers organisational success,” she explains. to ask Parliament for their own Assay OŠce. international reputations to protect… so (despite being window-free) hallmarking of its support of art degree programmes, further by adding the SheŠeld Analytical Despite fierce opposition from London clearly SheŠeld is doing something right production area appears to be an oasis of exhibition sponsorship, and numerous Services division. Today the highly qualified “Trust is mutually reinforcing, but once Goldsmiths’ Company, an Act of Parliament and perhaps it’s time that it was no longer a calm, unhurried busy-ness. There may be an collaborations designed to share and ensure team and comprehensively equipped managers operate by sharing information, granted SheŠeld the right to assay silver. best-kept secret. average of 10,000 of goods continuity of silversmithing skills in the city. laboratories are headed up by Dr Belen allowing others to influence, depending Morales, where not only precious metals are upon the team and clarifying and living Ensuring that a strong link is maintained tested, but also metals used in agriculture, up to expectations, high trust can be between the Assay OŠce and the wider animal supplies, healthcare, transportation established. High trust is essential community – be it consumer or trade – is and toys, and independent assays are to increase employee morale, reduce its library with over 4,000 books, including provided for bullion companies. absenteeism, promote innovation and some highly specialised and rare volumes. help in the adjustment to change – really essential in our very changeable UK jewellery market.”

Just a few weeks in and this style of sta£ training is paying dividends. Communication, collaboration and cooperation between team members and whole departments are palpably evident. It also works on team-client relationship levels – planned visits to customers’ businesses will o£er hugely beneficial insights into the life of hallmarked goods after they’ve left the Assay OŠce. “The development of the team and sharing with the trade the best practices that go on here, is what I want to see,” says Dimmick. “SheŠeld may have hid its light under a bushel, but now it wants to shout about it.” June 2019 Industry News 59 Goldsmiths North Chris Boland

Running from 12th to 14th July 2019, Rebecca Joselyn Goldsmiths North is a new summer selling SAY 'I DO' WITH OUR STUNNING BRIDAL fair bringing the finest contemporary jewellery and silverware to the North of JEWELLERY England, hosted in the magnificent Cutlers’ Hall in the heart of SheŠeld. Visitors to the fair will have the opportunity to meet and buy from 60 independent makers from Silversmiths showcasing their work include across the UK. Stuart Jenkins, Rebecca Joslyn, Angus McFadyen and Brett Payne. Among the jewellers exhibiting will be Chris Boland, William Cheshire, Max Admission fee: £5. Visit goldsmithsnorth. Danger, Tomasz Donacik, Ingo Henn, Sarah com for further information about the Herriot, John Moore and Elsa Sarantidou. venue, opening times and directions.

“This new venture has been exciting and creative for everyone involved,” said Martin Fleet. “We feel it really raises the bar on Sheila Fleet Opens everything we’ve done to date and we hope it’ll prove to be an unforgettable retail experience for our customers. And, who knows, perhaps it’ll encourage more people Glasgow Store to visit Orkney too.”

Early April saw the opening of a brand curtains of light are just some of the new store, in Glasgow’s Princes Square, for features visitors to the shop can expect to Orcadian jewellery designer Sheila Fleet. As see. The shop fit was undertaken by Watts with her existing Orkney store, it reflects the Design, with Ratho Byres Forge creating designer’s island and the themes that define the unique sculptural displays. her work. In addition to showcasing Sheila Fleet’s Months in planning and development, the many collections, the new shop features shop – situated on the first floor of Princes some special jewellery created using Square – has been fitted out with the rare Scottish gold. Sheila Fleet is one of textures, shapes and colours of the Orkney only two jewellers authorised to receive sea, sky and land providing inspiration for gold from Scotland’s only gold mine, at the interior design. Cononish near Tyndrum.

Work on the new store was overseen by Sheila Fleet, her son Martin and his wife Mairi, with Orcadian artist and interior designer, Marion Yorston, helping transform the vision for the space into a reality.

Sheila Fleet said: “Princes Square is a beautiful boutique shopping centre and we’ve long aspired to have a presence there as retail is a critical element of what we do. In 2018, after a very busy few years developing our new Kirk Gallery shop and cafe in Orkney, we finally got the opportunity to take up a space within the centre that we felt would work well for us and give us scope to do something really www.dominojewellery.com special for our Glasgow customers.”

Curved walls, pebble shapes and colours, seaweed sculptures, wave elements and

Sheila Fleet and Marion Yorston 60 NAJ News Francesca Marcenaro June 2019 Industry News 61 Royal Jewel is Centre Rouaida Jewellery Ellen Monaghan Stage in V&A Gallery

as updated interactive areas (such as design-your-own-ring) and Evie Milo Queen Victoria’s coronet is among 80 display material. new exhibits in the recently reopened A new glass-surround spiral staircase leads to the upper floor of Highly commended for the BCTF Award refurbished William & Judith Bollinger the Gallery, where one of the latest acquisitions can be found – a for Excellence, sponsored by The Pyramid collection of 49 Art Deco vanity cases, loaned as a promised gift Gallery. Gallery in the V&A museum. by Kashmira Bulsara in memory of her brother, Freddie Mercury. She clearly has a great eye; the beautiful examples of feminine Show organiser, Margeret Bunn said: “BCTF accessorising of a bygone age, created by the likes of Cartier, is a real celebration of all things British Van Cleef & Arpels and Lacloche, and handmade, and our award winners Acquired by the V&A in 2017 take inspiration from Modernism, represent that brilliantly. I’m delighted to – purchased by the arts-loving Persia, Ancient Egypt, China and congratulate them all for their well-deserved philanthropic couple William Japan. accolades. We are very fortunate that our and Judith Bollinger, and their awards are supported by important industry sons Douglas and James as An altogether more associations, prestigious galleries and trade a gift to the Nation and the unconventional (in turns BCTF Award press, so a big thank you to them all for Commonwealth – the sapphire quirky, fun, edgy, challenging…) getting behind the show and supporting the and diamond coronet is now on gathering of contemporary best of British here today.” permanent display in the Gallery. jewellery can be found along one An iconic symbol of young wall of the gallery. V&A curator Visitor numbers were up and many love, it was designed for Queen Clare Phillips has made space for exhibitors reported that trade was Victoria by Prince Albert in 1840, around 30 new pieces including a Winners exceptional as retailers lined up to place was made by Josph Kitching of sculptural Fairtrade gold ring by orders on their stands. London-based Kitching & Abud Queen Victoria's sapphire and diamond coronet Ute Decker, Flora Vigi’s and incorporates stones from “It has shaped up to be a fabulous edition made from the curling pages In April the Yorkshire Event Centre in other pieces of her jewellery. It of BCTF,” Margeret confirmed. “Buyers are of an old book and Christopher became one of her most important jewels – indeed, after Albert’s aware that demand for handmade British Thompson Royd’s necklace with poppies of gold, enamel and Harrogate played host to British Craft death in 1861 the grief-stricken Queen wore it instead of her products has increased over the years and diamonds. There’s even a gold Paddington Bear pendant by crown in 1866 when she finally felt able to open Parliament. Trade Fair 2019, and once again the best they are keen to o£er something new and Cartier. unique. We have some incredibly talented Fittingly, this year marks the 200th anniversary of the births in home-grown talent was on show. designer-makers from all parts of the UK, so The reopening of the William of Victoria and Albert. “Together with an array of 80 new it’s well worth the visit for gallery owners, and Judith Bollinger Gallery acquisitions and loans, made possible by the generosity of many gift shops and other discerning retailers.” is marked by the publishing supporters, the display of the coronet inaugurates the next phase in the life of this much loved gallery,” says Richard Edgcumbe, of Clare Phillipps’ 'Jewels & The highlight of the event – which Winners aside, there was much to catch the senior curator at the V&A. Jewellery' (£24.95, Thames encompasses a range of craftsmanship eye of jewellery buyers. Fife jeweller, Evie & Hudson), an impeccably Milo, was, in fact, named ‘Arts in Fife’ Artist including jewellery, glass, ceramics and The Gallery – refreshed by original architects Eva Jiricna and researched and inspiring of Merit 2019 before she even arrived at the textiles – is the presentation of awards for George Papathanasiou (Atelier A&D) – tells the story of European survey of jewellery through BCTF. She works with the bowls of salvaged best in show. and Western jewellery from Ancient Greece and Rome to the the ages, largely taken from antique teaspoons, which she present. One of the V&A’s most popular galleries (over 4.2m the Gallery and including the re-imagines and transforms into items with The winner of the NAJ Award for Excellence visitors since opening in 2008), it houses 4,000+ pieces and now new acquisitions. a new beauty. The stems of the teaspoons at BCTF was named as Francesca boasts much-improved lighting (gems really sparkle) as well Marcenaro, a London-based Italian designer are not discarded. Often beautifully who, through her ‘glass granulation’ engraved and bearing original maker technique on metal, pushes the boundaries hallmarks, they’re formed into rings and between art and jewellery. This innovation sold with small provenance tags outlining their history. produces a soft sparkle on her original, tactile surfaces complementing the stylish Yorkshire-based Lebanon-born designer jewellery. Thanks goes to the NAJ’s Lindsey Rouaida Boullier, who works with silver, Straughton’s fellow judge, Kath Libbert, of 18ct gold, gemstones, diamonds and pearls, leading contemporary gallery Kath Libbert won a Highly Commended Award at BCTF Jewellery, Salt Mills, Saltaire. 2018 and this year her Adonis necklace and earrings caught the attention of the judges. Meanwhile, last year’s NAJ winner Ellen The blood-red stones, central to Monaghan was a joint winner of the Form the polished silver pieces, are inspired by & Function Award, sponsored by The the death and restoration of Adonis of the Platform Gallery. And Ugly Jewellery was Greek myth. Blue Sea Anemone ll' brooch by Flora Vagi Enamelled gold vanity case by Cartier, Paris 62 Business Advice The Jeweller

and the Murenbeeld-weighted forecast is perhaps a more measured analysis of the present situation,” wrote commentator Lawrie Williams of bullion broker Sharps Pixley.

“There is also the fact that central banks beyond Russia and Kazakhstan have been UK jewellers can benefit from returning to the gold buying fold – and now we see China reporting monthly increases softening gold price and a steady to its gold reserves.”

pound, says David Brough. An important consideration for UK-based jewellers and manufacturers planning to restock gold, will be the stabilising of the pound after the EU set the 31st October Gold prices risked further falls in May, while The dollar has held firm after strong US deadline for Britain to leave the bloc. we’re seeing diminished volatility in the labour, inflation and earnings figures in April pound since a six-month Brexit deadline eased concerns that the US economy may be The pound has recovered as the extension, both of which may benefit UK- slowing down. based jewellers and manufacturers looking immediate risks around Brexit fell after to restock the yellow metal. Some analysts believe that although a US the postponement of the departure date. rate increase this year is unlikely, it could still A bullish outlook for gold prices in 2019 happen if US economic data remains robust. Sterling remains stuck in a trading range, has been tied to sentiment that there will and without fresh cues on the Brexit be no more US interest rate rises in coming Gold has so far failed to stay above $1,300 outcome the pound was unlikely to move months, but persistently strong recent an ounce for any length of time despite the significantly higher. economic data from the world’s largest US Federal Reserve (Fed), the USA’s central economy are now leading analysts to banking system, intimating no interest rate A more stable pound will make the reassess that view. rises this year. job of planning gold procurement less complicated, especially for smaller UK Any potential renewed climate of rising US Gold dipped 0.2 percent to $1,280.61 an ounce jewellery industry players who do not use interest rates would diminish the appeal on 1st May. hedging tools. of bullion to investors, as the precious metal bears no interest or yield, and could With investors unsure of immediate drivers make alternative, yield-bearing assets more Longer Term Outlook for the pound, volatility expectations have attractive. fallen sharply. Potentially rising risks of a US interest rate In the meantime, the pound is steadying hike later this year have instilled caution Disclaimer: any opinions expressed in this against the dollar after the EU set a six- in some analysts’ longer-term forecasts for article are solely those of the author. This month ‘Halloween’ deadline for Britain to gold, with gold and forex consultant, Dr article should not be seen as investment leave the EU. Martin Murenbeeld, predicting a cautiously advice. optimistic year-end gold price of $1,374 an A combination of weakening dollar- ounce, below predictions of other analysts. denominated gold prices and a more David Brough is IJL’s precious Metals stable pound in the near term, would be “While we stand by our own forecast that & Gems editor. He previously covered potentially good news for UK jewellers and gold may reach $1,400 or higher by the year commodity markets, including precious jewellery manufacturers seeking to restock end, the yellow metal’s price progress is metals, for Reuters and is editor and co- the yellow metal. currently looking a little more vulnerable founder of JewelleryOutlook.com Public support for Fairtrade is at an all-time high and reports show that a third of consumers would choose to shop at stores that were concerned about how their gold is produced, while a quarter said they would buy Fairtrade Gold even if it meant paying more*.

We now stock • Round Wire (18ct Yellow and White)

• Square Wire (9ct Yellow, White and Red, and 18ct Yellow and White)

• Sheet (18ct Yellow and White)

• Grain (9ct Yellow, White and Red, and 18ct Yellow and Fine Gold)

• Loose Chain (9ct and 18ct Yellow)

* CAFOD, “ Good bling not bad bling says British public,” 2006

8582 CG Fairtrade NAJ Ad_AW.indd 1 06/03/2019 14:44