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BuyeR’s ResouRce: Findings and Chain I]ZEZg[ZXi8dbW^cVi^dc

what’s in a name? Improving on perfection. A glossary of common types of findings and chain

ant to know the difference between a fishhook clasp and Wa fishhook? An illusion setting and an invisible setting? How about a fili- gree chain and a foxtail chain? If so, you’re in the right place. Below and on the following pages you’ll find def- initions and descriptions of a wide range of chain and component parts. The next time you contact your supplier, make sure you have this guide ready, so you can speak the same language, and your order for 200 14k fishhook clasps doesn’t become a ship- ment of 200 14k French wires—a.k.a., “fishhooks.”

The Findings Editor’s Note: MJSA thanks Elizabeth Brehm- er of Stuller Inc. in Lafayette, Louisiana, for serving as technical editor of “The Findings File.” marine link chain with toggle clasp

with a rubber-type insert that grips a pin; Bead Tip: A concave metal piece, at- generally used for stickpins or . tached to a metal loop, used to attach Basket Setting: An open-sided set- thread to a clasp. A knot sits inside the We are proud to be celebrating our 50th successful year of manufacturing ting in which the lower portion of a concave piece, and the curved loop hooks tuller i nc. the fi nest quality settings and fi ndings made exclusively in the USA and bail stone is visible. to the clasp. distributed throughout the world. Bead: (1) A hollow metal form that is Belcher Setting: A mounting in Airplane Back: See “Link Connector.” swaged from spinning seamless tubing or which the claws for the setting are formed As the innovation leader we continually challenge ourselves to stay ahead with the Baguette Setting: A low setting de- flat stock, then separated and rolled into from the shank of the ring. newest, trend-setting ideas our customers come to expect, year in and year out. signed to hold a baguette-cut stone, its final shape. It generally has two holes. Bezel: Generally, a type of solid-wall set- straight or tapered. Ends of the setting (2) Any small or rounded component, ting into which a continuous seat has been To really fi nd out “what’s new,” call us anytime for a copy of our latest catalogs. terminate with either a bar or prongs. made from a variety of materials, with a cut to hold a faceted or cabochon stone. Bail: An oval-, teardrop-, or D-shaped hole through it; to be strung singly or with The metal above the groove is burnished metal component used to connect pen- others in a sequence. over the edge of the stone to secure it. dants to a chain. It is meant to slide onto Bead Clasp: Typically, a clasp mech- Bezel Cup: A type of setting designed the chain rather than to be soldered to it. anism that is hidden in a bead or . to hold flat-backed cabochon stones, in Bar Pin: See “Pin Back.” Also, a round or patterned clasp used as a which the of the setting is burnished

Barrel Nut: A barrel-shaped clutch closure for pearl or bead strands. over the stone to secure it in place. Gener- of s courtesy of r io Gr A nde. c h in photo courtesy B A il photo 25 Brook Avenue, Maywood, New 07607 (201) 712-0717 (877) 220-1346 Fax (800) 322-9008 (201) 845-4433 (877) 222-3500 Fax (800) 322-9008 Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 56 www.josephcastings.com www.victorsettings.com

15521 Blue August Ad.indd 1 8/7/08 4:10:19 PM ally available in plain edge, serrated edge, Hook: A flat, stamped, round catch or hook, used to hold two or more or rolled edge styles. Rolled edge styles re- covering for a button. It slips over the objects or parts together, as with chains. quire the stone to be glued in place. button and is attached to a chain using a : See “Prong.” Bezel Wire: See “Gallery.” jump ring. Click-in Lever Back: A specialized Box Catch: A catch used for flat chains Catch: In , a piece of hard- lever back mechanism. The lever snaps and . Formed from flat sheet stock ware designed to accept and lock a top over a formed ear wire, capturing the ear into a box shape, with a snap-plate front wire or a pin-stem; see also “Joint, Catch, and securing the mechanism with a clear to accommodate a separate tongue. May and Pin-Stem.” In and bracelets, “click” sound. be a fully shaped box or an open-top box, it is the locking or closing mechanism; see Clip: A two-part piece attached to the depending upon the application. also “Clasp.” back of an . The two pieces close Box Setting: A square or rectangular Cathedral Setting: Usually a very tall, around the earlobe, using mechanical walled setting, grooved inside and gener- slender setting. The name references the pressure to hold the earring in place. ally used for mounting a stone on a ring or height of the setting. Cluster Setting: A metal form, gen- . The top edges of the groove are Chain End: A flat, stamped, double- erally circular, for setting multiple stones swaged over to secure the stone. ended tapered shape bent into a U and close together. Breloque: A small item, such as a charm, soldered on each side to the end of a flat Clutch: A device that uses tension or designed to be suspended from a chain. chain. A clasp hooks onto it. The chain a mechanical methodology to grip a post : Any piece of jewelry that may end can carry the karat quality stamp of and secure a piece of jewelry. See “Butter- be pinned to clothing. an item. fly Clutch,” “Ear Nut.” Brooch Back: A complete brooch Chain Tag: A flat metal piece, usually Clutch and Bar: A tie tack clutch with pin, hinge, and backing to which an ele- a small square or rectangle, with a hole in a small chain attached to a bar. The bar is ment can be attached. No mechanical as- each end. Its specific function is to carry designed to pass through a buttonhole to sembly required. the quality stamp or trademark of the secure a . Brooch Pin: A length of hardened manufacturer, and to provide an easily Clutch Back: See “Ear Nut.” wire with one flat end containing a hole handled attachment point for spring rings. Collets: British term. See “Setting.” and the other end sharpened to a point. Also known as a quality tag or a plaque. Comfort Back: A small foam pad Bullet Clutch: A barrel-shaped clutch Channel Setting: A setting in which that slides over a clip back or Omega clip, with a rubber or mechanical insert that the stones are fitted into grooves in two cushioning the ear from the metal. grips a friction earring post. parallel walls, as opposed to being held Comfort Disc: A plastic disc that fits Bunch Rings: Inexpensive rings with separately by prongs. over the post of a pierced earring for great- small center mountings for inexpensive Channel Wire: Narrow flat stock that er comfort. stones. Generally sold in bunches intend- has been formed into a channel. Also known Corrugated Bead: A hollow metal ed to be worn together. Also known as as bezel wire, eyeglass wire, and U-wire. sphere, with two holes, made from corru- stack rings or stackable rings. Charm: A miniature object designed gated tubing. Twist-corrugated beads have Buttercup Setting: Typically used to be attached to a chain . Charms corrugations that around the bead for and earrings, this deep, six- can depict figures, sports, occupations, horizontally instead of vertically. prong setting is shaped vaguely like the numbers, and letters, among the many Crimp Bead: A very small piece of cut buttercup flower. The prongs are distinct- representations available. Generally de- tubing used to finish off a strand of beads. ly flared at the base, which has a scalloped signed for bracelets, charms may also be The wire cord goes through the crimp, outline when viewed from the top. Avail- used as pendants, or hung from brooches through the clasp, and back through the able in closed-back or open-back form. and chains. crimp, which is then flattened with crimp- Also called a scallop setting. Chaton: A foil-backed glass or man- ing or needle-nosed pliers to secure Butterfly Clutch: A clutch with two made stone. the cord. Also called crimps. curved wings and an internal tension Clam Shell: See “Bead Tip.” : See “Setting.” mechanism that grip a grooved or notched Clamp: A metal prong or claw on a : A jewelry item designed to post. Also called a grip fastener or a mili- setting. Also called a cramp. close buttonless shirt cuffs (French cuffs). tary grip. See also “Ear Nut.” Clasp: A fastening device, such as a It consists of two decorative pieces con- Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 58 nected by a bar or chain that fits through which an earring post is passed to secure the ring (or interchanged with other compo- the buttonhole and locks the cuffs togeth- earring to the lobe. Also referred to as an ear- nents) to create different looks. For exam- er. See also “Link Connector.” ring back, clutch, friction back, push back, ple, various decorative backings that can Dome: Any convex decoration. It can or clutch back. See also “Butterfly Clutch.” be attached to an earring and changed. be made manually with a dapping block Ear Post: See “Post.” Earring Post: See “Post.” and a dapping punch, or by using a power Ear Screw: A U-shaped earring with a Enhancer: A bail-like that may press. front pad and rear pad, as well as a paral- be opened to fit over a strand of or Doublet: Any stone made of two lel, built-in threaded mechanism. When beads and then locked closed. Also known component parts, frequently genuine turned, the mechanism moves the rear as a pearl enhancer. stones combined with glass, plastics, or pad toward the front of the earring, ap- Etching: See “Metal Etching.” synthetic stones. plying pressure to the ear until the ear- Euro Wire: See “Lever Back.” Drop: A small ornament suspended ring is secure. Also referred to as a French Eye: A loop, made of wire or other from a piece of jewelry. earring. material, used as a connector for chains, Ear Back: See “Ear Nut.” Ear Wire: A bow of wire, looped to pendants, etc. Ear Clip: An alternative to a pierced fasten an earring to a pierced ear. It is gen- Eye Pin: A wire of varying length that earring, it consists of a decorative front erally made of or hypoal- has been manipulated at one end to form portion connected by a yoke to a back clip lergenic surgical steel. See also “Fishhook,” a loop to which decorative stones or beads or a hinged lever. The lever snaps over the “Kidney Wire,” “Shepherd Hook.” can be attached. yoke, creating tension and securing the Earring Back: See “Ear Nut.” Eyeglass Wire: See “Channel Wire.” clip against the ear. Earring Clutch: See “Ear Nut.” Fancy Gallery: See “Gallery.” Ear Nut: An earring back with a hole Earring : A separate decorative Ferrule: A metal band or that is and a friction or tension element through component that can be added to an ear- fitted to the end of wire, thread, cord, lay out.qxd 10/17/05 10:17 AM Page 1

59 wood, or other material to prevent fraying wire or French ear wire. See also “Kidney charged base, an electric arc occurs that or to add decoration. Wire,” “Shepherd Hook.” fuses the post to the jewelry item. Festoon: A pendant with rings on Fishhook Clasp: A style of pearl clasp Gallery: A name for metal strips used both sides, through which chain or cord with a locking mechanism that resembles to make settings for stones or used as a can be attached. It usually functions as the the shape of a fishhook. decorative design element in a piece of centerpiece of the . Fob: A decorative charm or extension jewelry. A gallery is generally manufac- Figure-Eight Safety: A type of safety off a chain or ribbon that is attached to tured as a continuous strip with a repeated catch in which a figure-eight- or hour- a . Used to pull the watch design. A highly decorated example is re- glass-shaped hinged wire snaps over a out of a pocket, or to attach the watch to ferred to as a fancy gallery. pin. Used as a safety snap on a bracelet clothing with a pin. Gallery Wire Setting: A setting made or box catch. French Clip: An elegant variation up of multiple wire work levels or galler- : Ornamental work formed of on the standard ear clip, it has a spring- ies. It may be fabricated from metal or bent wire that is soldered into delicate and loaded rear pad and a pad-tipped screw; wax masters. complex designs, somewhat reminiscent of the screw adjusts the tension of the pad German Ear Wire: See “Lever Back.” lace patterns. It also may be stamped or cast. against the ear. Grip Fastener: See “Butterfly Clutch.” Fishhook: A fishhook- French Earring: See “Ear Screw.” Guard Chain: A small chain with one shaped finding used to make French Wire: See “Fishhook.” end attached next to the clasp of a neck- earrings. The curved hook Friction Post: See “Post.” lace or bracelet, the other end to a loop or end passes through the Fusion Post: A post used in the fusion- link on the opposite end of the piece. It is pierced ear, while an or- or percussion-welding process. It resembles used as a fail-safe in case the clasp opens. nament hangs from a normal post but has an “initiating nib” at Head: See “Setting.” fishhook the other end. Also the end. During assembly, when the posi- Headed Pin or Head Pin: A wire of known as French tively charged post contacts the negatively varying length and diameter with a flat or domed end that is of slightly larger di- ameter than the rest of the wire. Used for stringing or attaching beads, in which the bead is seated on the flat or dome of the head pin. Heishi Beads: Small shell or other disc or short tube beads, usually white, of American Indian origin. Hidden Screw Clasp: A necklace fas- tener consisting of two short barrels with screws that connect. The clasp is partially buried in the bead or pearl, giving the necklace a clasp-less look when screwed together. Hollow Wire: Tubular stock used for making beads, bracelets, or chain. May be solder-filled. Hoop: Metal wire or tubing that has been formed into individual rings. Used for earrings, bracelets, or necklace segments. Hoop Wires: Short, shaped ear wires that are used at the top of a hoop earring. Usually, they have a loop or hole at one

end so they can be riveted into a match- of rio GrAnde. courtesy photo of rio GrAnde. courtesy photos Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 60 ing joint. which remains open). See also “Fishhook,” I.D. Bracelet: RaytechRaytech Usually a link-type IsIs“Shepherd TheThe Hook.” One!One! bracelet with a curved center plate on Lapped Border: The polished edge which a monogram is engraved. Vibratory,of an item Rotary achieved by using a non-yield- Illusion Setting: A type of prong set-or Magneticing surface, such as a stiff felt wheel or a ting containing a faceted metal plate that wooden wheel. It gives the appearance of surrounds the girdle of a , thusTumblers a rounded edge. making the diamond appear larger. We HaveLever It Back: All! A mechanism comprising Invisible Setting: A We variation have of thea metala hinged lever that is riveted into place on a pavé look, this type of settingfinishing applies onlyand gemyoke; the lever snaps shut against the yoke to multi-stone arrangements.processing It is designed solution to secure an earring. The term also describes to hide all metal aroundfor the stone.any Rather situation. a finished earring that contains the hinged- than having beads of metalContact hold the stone us intoday lever to mechanism to secure an ear wire. Also place, the stones are cutsolve in a way yourthat allows problem! called a Euro wire or German ear wire. them to snap into a hidden metal grid. Link Connector: A finding attached to Jacket: See “Earring Jacket.” RAYTECHa decorative cufflink element, it is placed Joint: The U-shaped part that servesRAYTECH through the buttonhole and is then se- Raytech Industries as the fulcrum of a hinged mechanism,A Division cured of Lyman to lock Products ends together. The most to which another component475 part Smith (such Street,popular Middletown style of link CT connector06457 is vertical- Phone 860-632-2020 • Fax 860-632-1699 as a pin-stem) is riveted into place, allow- ly inserted, then swiveled to a horizontal Visit Our Web Site at www.raytech-ind.com ing for movement of the part. The riveted position, ensuring cufflink security. Also part may be designed into the joint as called“Findings” airplane Courtesy backof B.A. Ballouor wingback. & Co., Inc. one complete unit. Commonly used for Lobster Claw: A clasp brooches and earrings. shaped somewhat like a lob- Joint, Catch, and Pin-Stem: An as- ster’s claw. The “pincer” arm sembly used to affix jewelry items, such as is under tension by an inter- brooches, to clothing. The joint serves as nal spring mechanism that is the fulcrum on which the pin-stem pivots. opened and closed by a lever lobster claw The catch is a hook into which the pin- on its side. stem fits when closed. (See also “Safety Locket: A small, hollow, hinged pen- Catch.”) The pin-stem is a sharply pointed dant. The wearer can keep photos, locks pin (suitable for piercing clothing) with a of hair, or other mementos inside. base fashioned into a hole or T-shape to Locket Bail: A metal component used facilitate connection with the joint. See to connect pendants, specifically lockets, to also “Pin Back.” a chain. It is meant to slide onto the chain Jump Ring: A plain rather than to be soldered to it. Also called wire ring of any size, usu- a clip-on bail. ally round or oval in shape, Loop: See “Jump Ring.” used for attaching jewelry Mechanical Back: An earring back jump ring parts. In general, the ends containing a spring mechanism, which ap- of the wire are bentFULL together, SERVICE sometimes REFINERYplies pressure to triggers that grip an earring soldered. Also called a loop. post.Sweeps Pressing the lever extensions releases KidneySilver Wire: An ear wireStone with Removal a con- the postFree fromShipping the mechanicalContainers back. Buffings Many Settlement Options tinual curved, kidney-like shape. The end Melon Bead: A round bead with a

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D A TH photo courtesy of rio GrAnde. courtesy photo of rio GrAnde. courtesy photos opposed to a fishhook or shepherd hook, Mesh: A finely woven metal fabric. S Toll Free: 888-8REFINE IL 5 Y 2 R V ER SA www.gemarkarc.com ANNIVER

61 Metal Etching: A method of creating clip earring for greater comfort. notch to keep a clutch from slipping. a design on metal using acid. Parts of the Pavé Setting: A method of setting Prong: A claw or curved wire used to metal are covered and protected from small stones as close together as possible, fasten and hold a stone in a setting. See the action of the acid, while the exposed so that the piece literally looks “paved” also “Prong Setting.” parts are eaten away to form a design. with stones. Prong Setting: A setting consisting of Metal Stamping: An ornamental met- Pearl Cup: A cup designed to hold a a series of prongs (generally three, four, or al part generally formed by die-striking. pearl secured by adhesive. It sometimes six) that hold a stone. Milanese Mesh: A flexible mesh cre- has a small peg that fits into a hole in a Push Back: See “Ear Nut.” ated by weaving interlocking wire spirals. It partially drilled pearl for added security. Quality Tag: See “Chain Tag.” can be made into various shapes and forms, Pearl Shortener: A hinged ring that Rabbit Ear Bail: See “V-Bail.” such as necklaces, bracelets, rings, etc. may be used to shorten an opera-length Ring Blank: A stamped finger ring of Military Grip: See “Butterfly Clutch.” pearl strand. The strand is doubled and any style that has yet to go through the Mordant: An acid used to etch the the two resulting loops are hooked into various finishing processes. surface of metal, glass, stone, etc. the shortener. Rolled Bead: A cut metal bead that Mounting: A piece of jewelry onto Peg Setting: (1) A peg, often set into has been rolled. The term is applied only which a stone or stones will be set. It can a metal cup or hemisphere, that fits into a to round beads, not to oval or oddly take several forms, such as a ring, a pen- hole drilled into a pearl. The pearl is then shaped beads. dant, a bracelet, or a necklace. fastened by cement or epoxy. (2) Any set- Rondelle: See “Roundel.” Navette: Term that describes a mar- ting with a post or peg on the bottom that Round Setting: A round-shaped metal quise shape. fits through a hole drilled or cast in a ring form that uses prongs, bezels, or any other Neck Chain: A chain that can be used or plate, and which is then soldered in means of clamping the stone securely. to hang a variety of ornaments, such as place to secure the setting. Roundel: A doughnut-shaped bead of lockets, crosses, and beads, around the Pelican Clasp: A clasp similar to a lob- precious or that is used as a spac- neck. It varies in length and can be worn ster claw in construction but narrower and er or an accent in stringing applications. separately or in multiples. slightly curved. See also “Lobster Claw.” Rub-Over Setting: See “Bezel.” No-Hole Ball: Either a hollow metal Pendant: An ornament designed to be S-Hook: A clasp formed in the shape of sphere swaged from seamless tubing or a suspended from a chain or necklace. an “S” with one closed curve and one open solid metal sphere machined from rod. Pendant Bail: See “Bail.” curve that interlock with each other. (Solid no-hole balls are generally , Photo Etching: See “Metal Etching.” Safety Catch: A small mechanism with while hollow no-hole balls are available Pin Back: A joint, catch, and pin-stem a flat pad bottom and a rotating center in both base and precious metals.) After assembly that is pre-assembled on a metal that opens and closes a small jaw. It is used swaging, the ball is separated and rolled plate (the ends of the plate are actually to secure a pin stem, and is affixed by sol- into shape. Mostly used as ball earrings formed into the joint and catch). The unit dering the flat pad bottom to the jewelry with posts. may be attached to a piece of jewelry by item. It comes in various configurations: Omega Clip: Used as a clip earring, it or gluing. Also called a bar pin. top open, side open, or tube style. has a rear clip in the shape of the Greek See also “Joint, Catch, and Pin-Stem.” Safety Chain: See “Guard Chain.” letter omega (Ω), which is formed from Pin-Stem: See “Joint, Catch, and Scallop Setting: See “Buttercup smooth round or semi-flattened wire. The Pin-Stem.” Setting.” wire is attached to a hinged mechanism Plaque: See “Chain Tag.” Screw Back: An ear nut or clutch that on one end of a yoke; a decorative element Plate: A decorative element—flat or screws onto a threaded post. is soldered to the other end. domed, plain or fancy—that can be added Screw Back Ear Clip: An ear clip with One-Hole Ball: A hollow metal sphere to jewelry. May be set with a stone or con- a threaded screw that tightens an earring with one hole. It is made by drawing flat tain a design. against a non-pierced earlobe for tension stock into a cup, then rolling it until it forms Post: A pin-like finding attached to an adjustment. See also “French Clip.” a sphere, leaving a small opening or “hole.” earring. It passes through the pierced ear- Screw Clasp: A necklace fastener con- Pad Insert: A molded rubber insert lobe and is usually secured by a clutch. A sisting of two short barrels with screws

that fits into or over the clip portion of a “friction post” often has a single or double that connect. of r io Gr A nde. courtesy p hotos Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 62 Screw Eye: A straight, short wire with Solitaire: Generally used to describe a ring at one end. The straight end is in- a ring with a single center stone, or the serted into a pearl with adhesive to con- stone itself. vert it into a pearl drop. Spacer Bar: Thin strip or bar with per- Scrolls: Term used to describe a fric- forated holes, used to hold multiple strands tion earring back that is formed by rolling of beads or pearls in place (the strands are two lengths of material into curled scrolls threaded through the holes during string- toward a center hole. The scrolls apply ing). May be decorative or plain. inward pressure on the friction post to se- Split Ring: An oval or round ring in cure the back to it. which the metal spirals two turns and Semi-Mounting: A mounting that is functions just like a split key ring. It pro- only partially set. It usually has side stones, vides a solderless solution for joining ele- but no main or center stone. ments, as well as added security when at- Setting: A metal form into which a taching charms or ornaments to necklaces stone is set and secured by prongs, a bezel, or bracelets. or any other means. Spring Hinge: A hinge that incorpo- Shank: In a ring, the shank is the part rates a spring in its construction to always that surrounds the finger. The shank and keep a piece, such as a bangle bracelet made the setting in which a stone is to be set are of two halves, in the closed position. collectively referred to as a ring mounting. Spring Ring: A circular tube—just Shepherd Hook: A pierced earring wire short of a complete circle—inside which a shaped like a shepherd’s crook—similar to coiled spring presses fishhook wire but with a longer shaft. See on the inner end of also “Fishhook,” “Kidney Wire.” a curved wire. The Shoulder: The part of a shank that is wire projects from closest to the setting; it is usually tapered. the tube to com- Sister Hook: Two hooks connected by a plete the circle. By spring ring hinge; when opened outward, they form the pressing on a small shape of a heart. Used as a clasp. lip, the wire can be pushed back into the Slide Clasp: A clasp tube, forming an opening and allowing made of two tubes that the ends of necklaces, bracelets, etc., to be slide into each other; the attached. friction fit forms a lock. Stamping: The process or operation (Some slide locks have a by which a press is used to strike and form magnetic security mecha- metal in a die. Generally feasible only nism.) The clasp contains when long runs are anticipated due to set- multiple rings, onto which up time and tooling costs. strands of beads or pearls Stick Pin: Long piece of hardened slide clasp can be tied. Often used for round wire with a flat pad on one end and a multi-strand bracelets or tapered, sharpened end on the other. Used necklaces. Also called a tube clasp. to add a decorative element to clothing, it Snap Plate: A rectangular flat plate is pushed through the material and secured that is specially notched to accommodate on the end with a stopper protector. a clasp tongue for a box-style catch. Stopper: A non-precious-metal cap Solder-Flushed Finding: A type of end, usually containing a rubber or sili- finding that has a solder coating, facilitating cone core, that is pushed onto the sharp-

photos courtesy of rio GrAnde. courtesy photos assembly with quick heating. ened end of a stick pin to secure it.

63 Strips: A continuous line of settings, Trigger Clasp: A teardrop-shape clasp is usually of the same metal as the round usually in a predetermined length. Also with a loop at its base and a trigger mecha- links. This type of chain can be used either referred to as a strip setting. nism. The mechanism opens the jaws of as stand-alone necklaces or as a special Swivel Clasp: Used to attach the clasp to receive a jump ring. pendant chain. The second chain called or other finished jewelry items to the end Twist-Corrugated Bead: See “Corru- bar link is also sometimes called a Gucci of a chain. Usually has an oversize metal gated Bead.” chain. This is a modeled link, usually oval loop on one end that can be opened and Tube Clasp: See “Slide Clasp.” like a bagel, with a bar crossing the center firmly closed. U-Wire: See “Channel Wire.” opening horizontally. The term “Gucci” is Tag: A small stamped shape with one Unit Cluster Setting: Any flat or domed a trademarked name, however, and cannot or two holes. Used to carry a stamped hall- plate drilled to accommodate melee. be used by other manufacturers. mark or trade name. V-Bail: A two-loop bail that looks like Basket Weave: As its name suggests, Threaded Post: A screw post that re- a “V” from the front. Also known as a rab- basket weave chain looks like a reed, cane, or quires the use of a threaded ear nut. bit ear bail. rattan basket, with wires woven alternately Threaded Post & Back: Earring posts Vermeil: A heavy gold electroplate (not over and under one another. Overall widths that have a length of the post finely thread- less than 10k) over sterling. According to ed to accept a specialized ear nut with a FTC standards, the minimum thickness of complementary thread configuration. the must be equivalent to 100 mil- Tie Bar: A metal clip that uses spring lionths of an inch (2.5 microns) of fine gold. tuller i nc. tension to attach the mid-portion of the Watch Bar: A bar-shaped length of tie to the shirt. metal that has a closed ring applied at the Tie Tack: A short, sharp pin with an center of the bar. The watch bar is usually basket weave

ornamental top, used to hold a tie to a attached to a chain end and is fed through of s courtesy photo shirt. Often secured by a butterfly clutch. a button hole on clothing to hold the can vary widely. This chain is particularly Tiffany Setting: Generally a taller, chain in place. suitable for bracelets and watch . round, six- or four-prong setting in which Wingback: See “Link Connector.” Bead: Bead chain—also sometimes the prongs flare out gracefully and rest Yoke: A Y-shaped part that connects called ball chain or toilet chain—is made over the stone to secure it in place. earring components and provides the base from thin flat stock or tubing formed into Toggle Chain: A short piece of chain against which a lever can snap securely. balls or beads. The formed beads are con- that connects two functioning parts, such nected internally by wire, which starts out as a key ring and a spring ring. It allows for The chain Gang in a continuous length and is formed into flexibility between the parts. Editor’s Note: MJSA thanks Steve Martin small “dumbbell” shapes that hold the tuller i nc. Toggle Clasp: The of National Chain Group in Warwick, beads together and allow flexibility. method of attaching Rhode Island, for serving as technical edi- Belcher: See “Rolo.” necklaces or bracelets tor of “The Chain Gang.” Bismarck: Bismarck chain starts as whereby a rigid metal Bar Link: The term bar link is used a cable or curb chain, then the sides are bar (plain or highly to refer to two different chain types. The decorated) is inserted first type consists of a straight bar alternat- through a ring. When ing with one or more round links. The bar toggle clasp the bar is turned side- may be round, rectangular, or twisted, and ways, it is prevented from coming back through the ring, providing closure. Top Wire: (1) A straight or curved bismark wire with a loop at one end. The loop at- taches to a hoop or dangling earring, and soldered together. Its appearance resem- the wire passes through the lobe. (2) A tri- bles a chain-link fence, but with a much of s courtesy of r io Gr A nde. c h in photos courtesy sp photo angular wire with loops at each end, used Gucci version of a tighter mesh. It is most often used as a

bar link o GG le cl A to secure a dangling earring to a clasp. bracelet chain. t Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 64 Boston Link: Named after the U.S. or to a 30-inch-long necklace. Also ance. The Byzantine is also available as a city, this chain is made from cable chain known as Venetian or square link chain. graduated piece, where the width becomes that is put through a die. The pro- Byzantine: The Byzantine chain is larger toward the center of the necklace. cess elongates each link and squares it, cre- an intricate design based on the parallel C Link: The C link, otherwise known ating the same box-like pattern on all four or double cable chain. Three open links as the C chain, is composed of tiny, solid sides of the chain. The solid link does not are added to each connection; two of the C-shaped pieces that cup into one anoth- offer a large degree of flexibility, therefore it three are placed diagonally on either side er in a set repetition. This chain lies flat, is usually worn alone. This link is soldered similar to the herringbone, but has more and is made in medium to heavy weights. flexibility than the herringbone due to Box: Perhaps one of the all-time clas- its link. It is normally worn alone. Varia- sic chains, box chain is made from round tions include beveled edges, which slant wire rolled flat. A chain machine designed down toward the base of the chain. There expressly for making this style allows the is also a fancy C chain where designs are square links to be produced very close imprinted over the links; these designs can byzantine together. The end product is a sturdy, range from slash and nugget markings to lustrous, silky-feeling chain composed of of the connection, and the third is placed classic vertical lines. many small, square links alternating ver- throughout the two extra links and the Cable: The cable chain is a basic open tically and horizontally. Box chain can vertical double link. This extra layering of link where one oval links horizontally and be highly polished or diamond cut, and links repeats on each side of the connec- one oval links vertically. This repetition because it is extremely durable, it can be tion. It is available both “flat,” where it lies enables the chain to be one of the stron- worn either with or without pendants. It against the skin, and “round,” where it has gest available: Cable chains can often be

photo courtesy of stuller inc. of stuller courtesy photo is worn in styles ranging from a bracelet an enhanced three-dimensional appear- found hauling large machinery and bear- toGGle clAsp photo courtesy of rio GrAnde. chAin photos courtesy of stuller inc. of stuller courtesy of rio GrAnde. chAin photos courtesy photo clAsp toGGle

65 ing anchors on ships. In jewelry, cable long link, etc. The length of each series of it is soldered, is hammered into an inter- chain is commonly used as a pendant short links is usually equal to or greater locking “S” design, then twisted to create necklace. Variations on this link include than a long link. a nugget look. The chain is normally sol- double or parallel links, usually titled fan- Figure Eight: A chain with variable- dered in a chain soldering oven. cy cable; rectangular instead of oval links, length links, in which alternate links are Omega: is created in two titled square link; and the long and short, twisted into figure-eight shapes. This steps. First, a mesh substructure is created where the size of the link alternates. See chain is made from either a cable or a curb in continuous footage. This substructure is also “Figaro.” chain, and the links can be hammered flat then fed into another machine that places Cobra: Cobra chain starts off as a basic with a fancy pattern or a diamond-cut. stamped gold sheet over the substructure. cable chain, which is then hammered into Filigree: Filigree chain is created by a swaged chain with flat, triangular links. long curb or cable links, the surface of Curb: Curb chain is a flat, open-link which have a Florentine pattern that gives chain. the chain a lacy look. Diamond-Milled: A chain that has Foxtail: Foxtail chain is made from undergone a decorating process in which a stamped links with bent ends. These links pattern of sharp cuts is created in the met- are connected without solder. The chain omega al by a machine with a diamond-tipped can be hammered into a square or rectan- tool. The process leaves a bright finish that gular pattern, or it can be diamond-cut. The gold sheet is snapped in place, section doesn’t require buffing or polishing. French Rope: French rope chain is by section, until the continuous footage is False Snake: False snake chain—also made from wire that is flattened on a ma- used up. The footage is then cut into stan- known as seamed snake chain—is made chine. Each wire link is then woven into dard lengths and locks are added before by starting with a curb chain. The curb the next link, and all links are connected final polishing and clean up. chain is then compacted and formed into without solder. Popcorn: Popcorn chain is made of a tubular shape, which makes it look like Herringbone: Herringbone chain starts identical interlocking die-struck segments, a snake chain. When properly made, the out as a double or triple rope chain. The which are continuously stamped from seam where the two sides join is not vis- rope chain is then curbed to take the twist thin strips of flat stock. These segments ible to the naked eye. Although the chain out of the chain and is hammered flat. are hollow and may be rounded, flat, or feels like a traditional snake chain, it is The finished chain resembles a herring- concave for greater reflection. This chain considerably easier to make, since there is bone tweed pattern. is made in a similar manner to traditional no scrap and no intricate linking of die- Marine Link: Marine link chain is snake chain, and generates a great deal of struck pieces. It is, however, heavier than made with wire curb or cable links that scrap. traditional snake chain because it is more have a bar soldered in the center of the Rolo: A chain made up of connected nearly solid than the somewhat hollow link. The links may be hollow or solid. symmetrical links (usually half round or structure of snake. Mesh: There are different types of oval). Also known as a belcher chain. Figaro: Also sometimes called a long mesh chain. Milanese mesh, for example, and short chain, Figaro chain can be ei- is woven wire that can take both tubular ther a curb or a cable chain with a vari- and flat forms. Another type, able-length link. For example, this chain mesh, is actually formed by a knitting process: Like a machine, needles knit a continuous seamless tube that can then be drawn into various diameters. rolo With end attached, it can be used for tuller i nc. necklaces, bracelets, and watch bands, and Rope: Rope chain is made on a cable-

Figaro can even be flattened. or curb-chain machine with a head that Nugget: Nugget chain—also called turns at different degrees. This makes it may be made with three short links and twisted serpentine and tinsel chain—is a possible to run two or three links and weave

one long link, with one short link and one standard serpentine chain, which, after them together into double or triple chain. of s courtesy photos Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 66 Scroll: Scroll chain is made by a spe- cial chain machine that performs like two machines in one. The machine has two arbors that are fed wire from two differ- ent directions. The wire is curled by the arbors into the scroll design. The chain is then soldered. Scroll chain can also be hammered and diamond-cut. Serpentine: Serpentine chain is pro- duced by swaging (or hammering) a curb chain while it is positioned on its side. If you stand a curb chain on its edge length- wise, you can begin to see the “S” pattern, which is accentuated by hammering. Singapore: Singapore chain is pro- duced by lightly swaging a double curb chain, thus flattening an area of the chain and creating a luster that greatly enhances the basic double curb. It is then twisted for a spiral effect. Snake: Snake chain is produced from star-shaped stampings made from flat stock. These stampings are then piggybacked, one on top of the other, to produce a soft, sup- ple chain. This method of producing chain is slow, however, with most machines gen- erating perhaps 200 feet per day. : Sock chain is a hollow mesh chain made from wire. The hollow nature of the chain makes it resemble a sock or a straw. The casing of the hollow tube is made from woven wire and is very flexible. Square Link: See “Box.” Swaged: Any chain that has been ham- mered to flatten or otherwise change the appearance of the links. Tigertail (or Tiger Tail): This chain comprises multiple strands of very fine wire that is usually twisted together and then coated with nylon or plastic. Venetian: See “Box.” Wheat: The wheat chain is a machine- made rope chain that is twisted under tension to tightly nest the links, giving the chain the appearance of a wheat tassel. It can also be made on a left-right curb-chain machine. Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 70