BuyeR’s ResouRce: Findings and Chain I]ZEZg[ZXi8dbW^cVi^dc what’s in a name? Improving on perfection. A glossary of common types of findings and chain ant to know the difference between a fishhook clasp and Wa fishhook? An illusion setting and an invisible setting? How about a fili- gree chain and a foxtail chain? If so, you’re in the right place. Below and on the following pages you’ll find def- initions and descriptions of a wide range of chain and component parts. The next time you contact your supplier, make sure you have this guide ready, so you can speak the same language, and your order for 200 14k fishhook clasps doesn’t become a ship- ment of 200 14k French wires—a.k.a., “fishhooks.” The Findings File Editor’s Note: MJSA thanks Elizabeth Brehm- er of Stuller Inc. in Lafayette, Louisiana, for serving as technical editor of “The Findings File.” marine link chain with toggle clasp with a rubber-type insert that grips a pin; Bead Tip: A concave metal piece, at- nc. generally used for stickpins or earrings. tached to a metal loop, used to attach i Basket Setting: An open-sided set- thread to a clasp. A knot sits inside the We are proud to be celebrating our 50th successful year of manufacturing tuller ting in which the lower portion of a concave piece, and the curved loop hooks s the fi nest quality settings and fi ndings made exclusively in the USA and bail stone is visible. to the clasp. distributed throughout the world. Bead: (1) A hollow metal form that is Belcher Setting: A ring mounting in Airplane Back: See “Link Connector.” swaged from spinning seamless tubing or which the claws for the setting are formed As the innovation leader we continually challenge ourselves to stay ahead with the Baguette Setting: A low setting de- flat stock, then separated and rolled into from the shank of the ring. newest, trend-setting ideas our customers come to expect, year in and year out. in photo courtesy of courtesy in photo A signed to hold a baguette-cut stone, its final shape. It generally has two holes. Bezel: Generally, a type of solid-wall set- h c straight or tapered. Ends of the setting (2) Any small or rounded component, ting into which a continuous seat has been To really fi nd out “what’s new,” call us anytime for a copy of our latest catalogs. nde. terminate with either a bar or prongs. made from a variety of materials, with a cut to hold a faceted or cabochon stone. A io Gr Bail: An oval-, teardrop-, or D-shaped hole through it; to be strung singly or with The metal above the groove is burnished r metal component used to connect pen- others in a sequence. over the edge of the stone to secure it. dants to a chain. It is meant to slide onto Bead Clasp: Typically, a clasp mech- Bezel Cup: A type of setting designed the chain rather than to be soldered to it. anism that is hidden in a bead or pearl. to hold flat-backed cabochon stones, in Bar Pin: See “Pin Back.” Also, a round or patterned clasp used as a which the top of the setting is burnished il photo courtesy of courtesy il photo A Barrel Nut: A barrel-shaped clutch closure for pearl or bead strands. over the stone to secure it in place. Gener- B 25 Brook Avenue, Maywood, New Jersey 07607 (201) 712-0717 (877) 220-1346 Fax (800) 322-9008 (201) 845-4433 (877) 222-3500 Fax (800) 322-9008 Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 56 www.josephcastings.com www.victorsettings.com 15521 Blue August Ad.indd 1 8/7/08 4:10:19 PM ally available in plain edge, serrated edge, Button Hook: A flat, stamped, round catch or hook, used to hold two or more or rolled edge styles. Rolled edge styles re- covering for a shirt button. It slips over the objects or parts together, as with chains. quire the stone to be glued in place. button and is attached to a chain using a Claw: See “Prong.” Bezel Wire: See “Gallery.” jump ring. Click-in Lever Back: A specialized Box Catch: A catch used for flat chains Catch: In brooches, a piece of hard- lever back mechanism. The lever snaps and bracelets. Formed from flat sheet stock ware designed to accept and lock a top over a formed ear wire, capturing the ear into a box shape, with a snap-plate front wire or a pin-stem; see also “Joint, Catch, and securing the mechanism with a clear to accommodate a separate tongue. May and Pin-Stem.” In necklaces and bracelets, “click” sound. be a fully shaped box or an open-top box, it is the locking or closing mechanism; see Clip: A two-part piece attached to the depending upon the application. also “Clasp.” back of an earring. The two pieces close Box Setting: A square or rectangular Cathedral Setting: Usually a very tall, around the earlobe, using mechanical walled setting, grooved inside and gener- slender setting. The name references the pressure to hold the earring in place. ally used for mounting a stone on a ring or height of the setting. Cluster Setting: A metal form, gen- pendant. The top edges of the groove are Chain End: A flat, stamped, double- erally circular, for setting multiple stones swaged over to secure the stone. ended tapered shape bent into a U and close together. Breloque: A small item, such as a charm, soldered on each side to the end of a flat Clutch: A device that uses tension or designed to be suspended from a chain. chain. A clasp hooks onto it. The chain a mechanical methodology to grip a post Brooch: Any piece of jewelry that may end can carry the karat quality stamp of and secure a piece of jewelry. See “Butter- be pinned to clothing. an item. fly Clutch,” “Ear Nut.” Brooch Back: A complete brooch Chain Tag: A flat metal piece, usually Clutch and Bar: A tie tack clutch with pin, hinge, and backing to which an ele- a small square or rectangle, with a hole in a small chain attached to a bar. The bar is ment can be attached. No mechanical as- each end. Its specific function is to carry designed to pass through a buttonhole to sembly required. the quality stamp or trademark of the secure a necktie. Brooch Pin: A length of hardened manufacturer, and to provide an easily Clutch Back: See “Ear Nut.” wire with one flat end containing a hole handled attachment point for spring rings. Collets: British term. See “Setting.” and the other end sharpened to a point. Also known as a quality tag or a plaque. Comfort Back: A small foam pad Bullet Clutch: A barrel-shaped clutch Channel Setting: A setting in which that slides over a clip back or Omega clip, with a rubber or mechanical insert that the stones are fitted into grooves in two cushioning the ear from the metal. grips a friction earring post. parallel walls, as opposed to being held Comfort Disc: A plastic disc that fits Bunch Rings: Inexpensive rings with separately by prongs. over the post of a pierced earring for great- small center mountings for inexpensive Channel Wire: Narrow flat stock that er comfort. stones. Generally sold in bunches intend- has been formed into a channel. Also known Corrugated Bead: A hollow metal ed to be worn together. Also known as as bezel wire, eyeglass wire, and U-wire. sphere, with two holes, made from corru- stack rings or stackable rings. Charm: A miniature object designed gated tubing. Twist-corrugated beads have Buttercup Setting: Typically used to be attached to a chain bracelet. Charms corrugations that spiral around the bead for pendants and earrings, this deep, six- can depict figures, sports, occupations, horizontally instead of vertically. prong setting is shaped vaguely like the numbers, and letters, among the many Crimp Bead: A very small piece of cut buttercup flower. The prongs are distinct- representations available. Generally de- tubing used to finish off a strand of beads. ly flared at the base, which has a scalloped signed for bracelets, charms may also be The wire cord goes through the crimp, outline when viewed from the top. Avail- used as pendants, or hung from brooches through the clasp, and back through the able in closed-back or open-back form. and watch chains. crimp, which is then flattened with crimp- Also called a scallop setting. Chaton: A foil-backed glass or man- ing pliers or needle-nosed pliers to secure Butterfly Clutch: A clutch with two made stone. the cord. Also called crimps. curved wings and an internal tension Clam Shell: See “Bead Tip.” Crown: See “Setting.” mechanism that grip a grooved or notched Clamp: A metal prong or claw on a Cufflink: A jewelry item designed to post. Also called a grip fastener or a mili- gemstone setting. Also called a cramp. close buttonless shirt cuffs (French cuffs). tary grip. See also “Ear Nut.” Clasp: A fastening device, such as a It consists of two decorative pieces con- Buyer’s Resource Buyer’s 58 nected by a bar or chain that fits through which an earring post is passed to secure the ring (or interchanged with other compo- the buttonhole and locks the cuffs togeth- earring to the lobe. Also referred to as an ear- nents) to create different looks. For exam- er.