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Abstract: Modest Fashion, Which Has Been Defined As a Fashion That

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Abstract: Modest Fashion, Which Has Been Defined As a Fashion That PERCEIVED SIMILARITY AS A LEVER TO DEVELOP THE MODEST FASHION MARKET IN FRANCE Abstract: Modest fashion, which has been defined as a fashion that “incorporates style considerations into the quotidian practices of everyday religion” has triggered numerous reactions from politics and intellectuals in France since 2015. Considering such an intense debate, fashion retailers have to face a dilemma: should they – and if so, how – offer modest fashion lines to seize the opportunity of an important demand, but at the risk of alienating nontargeted consumers? Building on literature on nontargeted consumers’ response, we develop a conceptual model of the attitude towards modest fashion of French consumers of the majority group. We test this this model through an online quantitative survey. The results highlight the influence of values, age and involvement in fashion on the attitude. More interestingly, this influence appears to be mediated by perceived similarity. This research offers interesting managerial implications for fashion retailers established in France. Keywords: fashion retailing; similarity; nontarget market; culture LA SIMILARITE PERÇUE COMME LEVIER DE DEVELOPPEMENT DU MARCHE DE LA MODE PUDIQUE EN FRANCE Résumé : La mode pudique, définie comme une mode qui "est intégrée aux pratiques de la religion au quotidien" a soulevé de nombreuses controverses en France depuis 2015. Cet intense débat politico-médiatique place les enseignes de mode face à un dilemme : doivent- elles – et si oui, comment – répondre à une demande importante de mode pudique au risque de s'aliéner les consommateurs non ciblés ? A partir de la littérature sur les marchés non ciblés, nous développons un modèle conceptuel de l'attitude envers la mode pudique des consommateurs français du groupe majoritaire. Nous testons ce modèle grâce à une étude quantitative en ligne. Les résultats mettent en évidence l'influence des valeurs, de l'âge et de l'implication dans la catégorie de produit sur l’attitude envers la mode pudique. Plus intéressant, cet effet semble être médié par la similarité perçue. Cette recherche permet de formuler des recommandations aux enseignes de mode implantées en France. Mots-clés : distribution ; mode ; similarité ; marché non ciblé ; culture PERCEIVED SIMILARITY AS A LEVER TO DEVELOP THE MODEST FASHION MARKET IN FRANCE Introduction If fashion designers such as Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Jean-Paul Gaultier have long been inspired by religion or embezzled religious artifacts, some brands have recently gone further by developing an offer specifically dedicated to women who wish to express their style while respecting their religion. As an illustration, in 2016, Dolce & Gabbana, Uniqlo and Marks & Spencer collections included veils, long tunics inspired by abayas and burkinis, bathing suits that cover the entire body, from hair to ankles. Thus, from Sao Paolo to Jerusalem via the Gulf countries, Christian, Jewish and Muslim women are increasingly adopting modest fashion, meaning that they "incorporate style considerations (materials, cuts, colors, etc.) into the quotidian practices of “everyday religion” (Lewis, 2015). For Muslims alone, clothing spending in 2017 was $270 billion (about 16% of the global market) and is expected to reach $361 billion by 2023 (State of the Global Islamic Economy Report, 2018). While modest fashion appears as one of the most dynamic segments of the fashion market, retailers’ initiatives remain limited, especially in France, where modest fashion launches have consistently resulted in significant controversies. These controversies are often fueled by political personalities, who interfere with the business world. As an illustration, Laurence Rossignol, then Minister of Families, Childhood and Women's Rights, affirmed that it is not “banal and trivial that major brands invest this market and put Muslim women in the situation of having to wear that. It's irresponsible on the part of these brands" (interviewed on March 30, 2016 about modest fashion trade initiatives). More recently, the sporting goods company Decathlon abandon its project of selling a running hijab in France following negative reactions, including from Health Minister Agnès Buzyn, who would “have preferred that a French brand does not promote the veil" (interviewed on February 26, 2019). From abroad, such controversies in the country of human rights are puzzling. “A hijab for Muslim runners? In France, that’s a scandal” (Washington Post, February 26, 2019) is one of the numerous ironic international press titles covering modest fashion French controversies. In this research, we try to understand why modest fashion triggered such reactions in the specific context of France. Answering to this question could help fashion retailers to take a position on a recurring dilemma: should they – and if so, how – offer modest fashion lines to seize the opportunity of an important and still-growing demand, but at the risk of alienating French nontargeted consumers, which represent the biggest part of the market? Modest fashion has been studied as a social phenomenon in cultural studies (Bucar, 2016; Lewis, 2013, 2015), communication (Baulch and Pramiyanti, 2018; Hurley, 2019) and marketing research (Jafari and Süerdem, 2012; Alkayyali, 2019; Sobh et al., 2012; Sandikci and Ger, 2009). Adopting a modest fashion consumer’s perspective, these studies focus both on contexts in which modest fashion consumers are part of the majority group or on contexts in which they constitute a minority, as it is the case in France. However, to our knowledge, there is no research on the reactions of consumers who are not targeted by these products. 1 To fill this gap, we build on the literature on nontargeted consumers’ response, which focuses on the determinants of a majority group's reactions to the marketing of products dedicated to minorities. Nontarget Market Effects Market targeting is a process of selecting the target market(s) from the entire market (Kotler and Keller, 2009). This selection is based on the evaluation of the commercial attractiveness of the various target markets (Grier and Kumanyika, 2010). Then, a specific offer is developed to meet the expectations of the of targeted group(s) of consumers. This method is based on the assumption that consumers response to customized offer is more favorable (Grier and Kumanyika, 2010). These favorable target market effect are all more true when targeting efforts are oriented towards minority groups (Deshpandé and Stayman 1994; Grier and Deshpandé 2001), such as an ethnic or a sexual minority (Aaker et al., 2000; Oakenfull and Greenlee 2005; Puntoni et al., 2011; Torres, 2007). However, targeting specific groups of consumers also raises the issue of the reactions of nontargeted groups. More specifically, research highlight unfavorable nontarget market effect for people belonging to the majority when they are exposed to an advertisement targeting a minority (Aaker et al., 2000). As such, in the U.S. context, compared with the response of a Caucasian American, the reaction of an Afro-American to an advertisement with an Afro- American model is more favorable. Conversely, compared with the response of a Caucasian American, the reaction of an Afro-American to an advertisement with a Caucasian American model is less favorable. Aaker et al. (2000) point out two processes to explain these different reactions. When a majority group is targeted, the process relies on felt targetedness. Thus, favorable target market effect for the majority is due to the feeling of being targeted. This impression is created by the use of regular advertising choices in terms of music, tone, language or media (Woods, 1993). On the contrary, unfavorable non target market effect for the minority is due to the feeling of not being targeted, meaning that marketing efforts are not made for oneself. When targeting a minority group (e.g., using a model from the minority group in an ad), favorable target market effect relies on perceived similarity, that is to say the feeling of being similar to the model used for the advertisement. Indeed, contrary to the majority, the minority is highly aware of its ethnic difference (McGuire et al., 1978; McGuire et al., 1979). Such a salience of their ethnic difference increases their sensibility to (dis)similarity with the model. On the contrary, unfavorable non target market effect for the majority is due to the feeling of not being similar to the model used for the advertisement, meaning that they feel excluded from the market (Aaker et al., 2000). As such, perceived (dis)similarity seems to be a key variable to explain reactions of the French majority group toward modest fashion products targeting a religious minority. Proposition of a Conceptual Model Building on the literature regarding nontarget market effects we believe that the key to understanding the attitude of the untargeted majority lies in the question of similarity with the targeted minority group. We therefore propose similarity as mediator variable of the relation between the attitude towards modest fashion and its determinants. As such, the first part of the model links the determinants of attitude to perceived similarity with the typical target of 2 modest fashion. On the one hand, some factors are likely to increase the perception of similarity: being attached to the great universal values such as equality or freedom, being attached to tradition and respect for religion, even if it is not that of the majority group, sharing a common interest
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