Notion Press

Old No. 38, New No. 6 McNichols Road, Chetpet Chennai - 600 031

First Published by Notion Press 2016 Copyright © Tanuj Singh, Varuna Mathur 2016 All Rights Reserved.

ISBN 978-0-9975577-2-5

This book has been published with all efforts taken to make the material error-free after the consent of the author. However, the author and the publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

No part of this book may be used, reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Contents

Foreword xv A Note to the Readers xix Biryani Pot/Handi xxi Pairing Wines with Biryani xxiii Cooking Tips xxvii Right Meat Cut for Biryani xxix

Indian 1. Ambur Biryani 3 2. Ambiya Murgh ki Biryani 6 3. Ande ki Biryani 9 4. Aqni (Yakhni) Biryani (also known as Awadhi Biryani) 12 5. Besan ki Biryani 16 6. Bhaap Murg ki Biryani 19 7. Bhari Tangdi Biryani 23 8. Bhatkali Biryani 27 9. Keeme Bhare Aaloo ki Biryani 30 10. Bhune Murgh ki Biryani 33 11. Bihari Boti ki Biryani 36 12. Bohri Biryani 39 13. Broiled Mutton Biryani 42 14. Chettinad Biryani 45 15. Malabar Chemeen Biryani 48 16. Coconut Mutton Stew Biryani 52 17. Coimbatore Biryani 55 Contents

18. Coorg Mutton Biryani 58 19. Crab Biryani 61 20. Dal Ghosht Ki Biryani 64 21. Degi Biryani 67 22. Dhua Murgh Biryani 70 23. Dindigul Biryani 74 24. Darbaar-e-Mughal Biryani 77 25. Dumpukht Hyderabadi Biryani 80 26. Eid-e-Khaas Biryani 83 27. Fish Biryani 86 28. Fruit Biryani 90 29. Gatte ki Biryani 92 30. Ghosht Kabsa 96 31. Ghosht Mewe ki Biryani 99 32. Ghuli Dal Ghosht ki Biryani 102 33. Goan Prawn Biryani 105 34. Handi ki Biryani 109 35. Jhinge aur Suran ki biryani 112 36. Stew Chicken Biryani 115 37. Keema Karele ki Biryani 118 38. Kesari Seafood Biryani 122 39. Khade Ghosht aur Keeme ki Biryani 125 40. Khoja Biryani 128 41. Khyma Murgh ki Biryani 132 42. Kolhapuri Biryani 135 43. Kolkata Biryani 138 44. Lagan Murgh Chaap Biryani 141 45. Malai ki Biryani 144 46. Matka Murgh Biryani 147 x Contents

47. Memoni Biryani 150 48. Methi Murgh ki Biryani 153 49. Prawn Biryani 156 50. Qabooli 159 51. Salem Biryani 162 52. Sewaiiya ki Biryani 165 53. Stuffed Gobhi ki Biryani 168 54. Tawa Biryani 171 55. Teekhey Ghosht ki Biryani 174 56. Thalassery Mutton Biryani 177 57. Turkey Biryani 180 58. Vegetable Biryani 183 59. Whole Fish (Poori Macchi) Biryani 187 60. Kashmiri Biryani 190

Biryanis around the world …

1. Durban Chicken Breyani 197 2. Chicken Ma’loubeh 200 3. Dan Bauk 203 4. Dhakai Biryani 206 5. Irani Biryani 209 6. Iraqi Biryani 212 7. Kacci Bangladeshi Biryani 216 8. Nasi Biryani 219 9. Pakistani Lamb Biryani 223 10. Swahili Biriani 226 11. Afghani Biryani 229 12. Mauritian Mutton Biryani 232 13. Srilankan Mutton Biryani 235

xi Contents

Pilafs

1. Bihari Pilaf 241 2. Jackfruit (Kathal) Pilaf 244 3. Masala Bhaat 247 4. Persian Bhagali Polo 250 5. Bhune Murgh ka Pilaf 252 6. Mutton Chaap Pilaf 254 7. Raan ka Pilaf 257 8. Keeme ka Pilaf 260 9. Ghosht Korme ka Pilaf 262 10. Fruit Pilaf 265 11. Lotus Seeds Pilaf 268 12. Meetha Peela Chawal 271 13. Soya Pilaf 274 14. Ande ka Pulao (Egg-Pilaf) 277 15. Anaari Pilaf 280 16. Palak Murgh Pilaf 282 17. Achaari Keeme ka Pilaf 285 18. Lemon Mint Pilaf 288 19. Muri Ghonto 290 20. Nargisi Pilaf 293 21. Zereshk Polow 296 22. Parsi Dhansak Pilaf 299 23. Tahiri 302 24. Kesar-mewe ka Pilaf 304 25. Peas and Lavender Pilaf 306 26. Laal Maas ka Pilaf 308 27. Spicy Green Potato Pilaf 311

xii Contents

28. Corn and Paneer Pilaf 313 29. Rajasthani Mangori Pilaf 315 30. Red Beans Pilaf 318

Accompaniments

1. Biryani Chammanthi Chutney 323 2. Mirch ka Salan 324 3. Baghare Baigan 326 4. Tomato Chutney 329 5. Yogurt Chutney 330 6. Onion-cucumber Yogurt 331 7. Burhani 332 8. Onion Chutney 333 9. Biryani Shorba (Biryani Curry) 335 10. Mint Chutney 337

Reference/Glossary 339 About the Authors 341

xiii

Indian

There is no sincerer love than the love of food! - George Bernard Shaw

Ambur Biryani

Named after Ambur, a small town in Vellore (Tamil Nadu), this biryani is the most favored amongst the range of Arcot Biryanis. The specialty of this dish lies in the type of rice used, (Seeraga Samba, also known as Jeera Samba, a rice specific to Southern India), and the fact that neither the meat is marinated nor a meat tenderizer is used during cooking. Even then, as you eat it, every ingredient just melts in your mouth and brings a wave full of flavors.

Ingredients

For cooking the meat

99 1 kg goat meat, biryani cut, washed and drained 99 200 grams curd 99 1–2 Large Bay Leaves 99 5–6 cloves 99 1 Cinnamon Stick 99 100 grams Garlic, minced 99 100 grams Ginger, grounded 99 4–5 Large Onions, sliced 99 3–4 Tomatoes, sliced 99 1 tablespoon red chili powder 99 1 teaspoon Turmeric powder 99 1 Lime (as per taste) A Culinary Journey for the Love of Biryani

For par-cooking rice

99 1 kg Seeraga Samba rice, washed and soaked for 15 minutes

For layering the dum

99 Coriander Leaves, chopped 99 Mint Leaves, roughly chopped

Salt, as per taste Desi Ghee, for cooking Spice Content may be adjusted as per taste

1. Cook the meat a) Heat some ghee in a Degchi (or a huge handi) and sprinkle two tablespoons of curd in it and as it starts tempering, add the bay leaves, cloves and cinnamon stick. Stir and add the minced garlic, ginger and onions. Fry till golden-brown and then add the tomatoes, chili powder and turmeric and let it cook. b) After 3–4 minutes, add the mutton pieces to it and sprinkle some salt. Mix in the coriander and mint leaves. Pour some water in it and cover the lid. Cook the curry it for 30–35 minutes. 2. Prepare the rice a) Boil around 2 litres of water in a large vessel and add some salt and ghee in it followed by the soaked rice. Let it boil for 6–7 minutes or till it is cooked two-thirds. Once done, drain the rice carefully and spread it over a wide, flat dish.

4 Ambur Biryani

3. Layer the dum a) Once the curry is reduced to around half to one cup, mix some lemon juice and evenly spread the par-boiled rice over it. Add a tablespoon of ghee. Cook it covered on high flame for couple of minutes and then over low flame for next 10 minutes. If available put some burning pieces of coal on the lid it to give it heat from the top.

5 Ambiya Murgh ki Biryani

An astounding coalescence of sultry, saccharine and tangy! The chicken is marinated with ginger and some raw mango to give that edge of tanginess which is then subtly balanced by jaggery and whole red chilies. It is, undoubtedly, an awesome biryani treat for those special biryani lovers!

Ingredients

Marinating the chicken

99 1 kg chicken pieces, biryani cut, washed and drained 99 ½ raw mango puree (peeled and grinded in a food processor with some water) 99 100 grams Ginger, grated

Par-cooking rice

99 1 kg biryani basmati rice (preferred), washed and soaked for 15 minutes 99 2–3 bay leaves (large sized) 99 1 teaspoon carom seeds

Cooking the chicken

99 100 grams curd 99 1 tablespoon red chili powder 99 1 teaspoon turmeric powder 99 2 tablespoons fresh garam masala powder Ambiya Murgh ki Biryani

99 3–4 solid-dry red chilies 99 5–6 cloves 99 5–6 black pepper corns 99 2 teaspoons cumin seeds 99 1 tablespoon jaggery, grated

Garnishing

99 4–5 onions (large), sliced 99 5–6 green chilies, sliced lengthwise 99 Coriander leaves, chopped 99 Mint leaves, roughly chopped

Salt and black pepper, as per taste Desi ghee, for cooking Spice content may be adjusted as per taste

1. Marinate the chicken a) Make deep incisions on the meatier parts of the chicken and keep it aside. b) Take a mixing bowl and combine raw mango with salt, black pepper and ginger. Add it to the chicken and let it marinate for half an hour. 2. Par-cook the rice a) Wash and soak the rice in water for 10–15 minutes. Meanwhile, boil water along with bay leaves, carom seeds, a tablespoon of ghee and some salt. Stir and add the soaked rice. Once the rice has cooked for 6–8 minutes, drain the water and spread the rice over a wide, flat dish.

7 A Culinary Journey for the Love of Biryani

3. Cook the chicken a) Heat ghee in a Degchi (or a deep, large vessel) and add whole red chilies, cloves, black pepper corns, bay-leaves and cumin seeds. As they start tempering, add the marinated chicken. Mix well and cover the lid. Let the chicken cook for 10 minutes. b) Meanwhile, take a bowl and mix curd with red chili powder, turmeric and garam masala powder. After 10 minutes, open the lid and add the curd mixture to it. Let it cook for 5 minutes and then add the jaggery. Cover the lid again and let it cook for 15–20 minutes, or till the chicken is almost cooked and the curry has reduced to a cup. 4. Fry the onions a) Simultaneously, heat ghee in a small vessel and fry the sliced onions till they are caramelized or turn dark brown in color. Stir in the green chilies and remove from flame after 2 minutes. 5. Layer the dum a) Once the chicken is cooked, evenly spread the par-boiled rice all over the semi-cooked chicken followed by caramelized onions, green chilies, chopped coriander and mint leaves. Pour a tablespoon of ghee (optional, and as per taste). Cover it with a lid and cook over reduced flame for 10–15 minutes. Serve hot

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