Dentelles Et Accessoires Du Costume
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Lacemaking? No Way! You Have to Buy a Bunch of Equipme
Lacis Have you ever heard this (or said it): “Lacemaking? No way! You have to buy a bunch of equipment, learn a thousand stitches, and it takes a month of eyestrain to produce just an inch of lace!” How about this? “Handmade lace isn’t worth it; it tears up too easily, and it can’t be washed.” Or the Kiss of Death: “Lace isn’t appropriate to my time period.” Nonsense! What would you say if I told you that, for less than $20, and a weekend’s work, even a child can produce lace that is attractive and versatile, can survive repeated trips through the washing machine, and is appropriate for at least late 12th century through end of Period? Lacis is that lace. Lacis (also known as darned netting, filet lace, mezzo mandolino, and Filet Italien) is one of the oldest known lacemaking techniques. Examples of the netting itself – which even the most hardened Viking would recognize as simple fishnet -- has been found in ancient Egyptian tombs. Fine netting, delicately darned, have been found in sites dating back to the earliest days of the 14th century. It is mentioned specifically in the Ancrin Riwle (a novice nun’s ‘handbook,’ c. 1301), wherein the novice is admonished not to spend all her time netting, but to turn her hand to charitable works. Figure 1 pattern for bookmark Lacis is simply a net, such as fishnet, that has patterns darned into it. It comes in two basic categories, which categorize the kind of net used. Mondano is classic fishnet, a knotted netting where a shuttle and mesh gauge is used to make link loops together to form the net. -
NEEDLE LACES Battenberg, Point & Reticella Including Princess Lace 3Rd Edition
NEEDLE LACES BATTENBERG, POINT & RETICELLA INCLUDING PRINCESS LACE 3RD EDITION EDITED BY JULES & KAETHE KLIOT LACIS PUBLICATIONS BERKELEY, CA 94703 PREFACE The great and increasing interest felt throughout the country in the subject of LACE MAKING has led to the preparation of the present work. The Editor has drawn freely from all sources of information, and has availed himself of the suggestions of the best lace-makers. The object of this little volume is to afford plain, practical directions by means of which any lady may become possessed of beautiful specimens of Modern Lace Work by a very slight expenditure of time and patience. The moderate cost of materials and the beauty and value of the articles produced are destined to confer on lace making a lasting popularity. from “MANUAL FOR LACE MAKING” 1878 NEEDLE LACES BATTENBERG, POINT & RETICELLA INLUDING PRINCESS LACE True Battenberg lace can be distinguished from the later laces CONTENTS by the buttonholed bars, also called Raleigh bars. The other contemporary forms of tape lace use the Sorrento or twisted thread bar as the connecting element. Renaissance Lace is INTRODUCTION 3 the most common name used to refer to tape lace using these BATTENBERG AND POINT LACE 6 simpler stitches. Stitches 7 Designs 38 The earliest product of machine made lace was tulle or the PRINCESS LACE 44 RETICELLA LACE 46 net which was incorporated in both the appliqued hand BATTENBERG LACE PATTERNS 54 made laces and later the elaborate Leavers laces. It would not be long before the narrow tapes, in fancier versions, would be combined with this tulle to create a popular form INTRODUCTION of tape lace, Princess Lace, which became and remains the present incarnation of Belgian Lace, combining machine This book is a republication of portions of several manuals made tapes and motifs, hand applied to machine made tulle printed between 1878 and 1938 dealing with varieties of and embellished with net embroidery. -
Catalogue of the Famous Blackborne Museum Collection of Laces
'hladchorvS' The Famous Blackbome Collection The American Art Galleries Madison Square South New York j J ( o # I -legislation. BLACKB ORNE LA CE SALE. Metropolitan Museum Anxious to Acquire Rare Collection. ' The sale of laces by order of Vitail Benguiat at the American Art Galleries began j-esterday afternoon with low prices ranging from .$2 up. The sale will be continued to-day and to-morrow, when the famous Blackborne collection mil be sold, the entire 600 odd pieces In one lot. This collection, which was be- gun by the father of Arthur Blackborne In IS-W and ^ contmued by the son, shows the course of lace making for over 4(Xi ye^rs. It is valued at from .?40,fX)0 to $oO,0()0. It is a museum collection, and the Metropolitan Art Museum of this city would like to acciuire it, but hasnt the funds available. ' " With the addition of these laces the Metropolitan would probably have the finest collection of laces in the world," said the museum's lace authority, who has been studying the Blackborne laces since the collection opened, yesterday. " and there would be enough of much of it for the Washington and" Boston Mu- seums as well as our own. We have now a collection of lace that is probablv pqual to that of any in the world, "though other museums have better examples of some pieces than we have." Yesterday's sale brought SI. .350. ' ""• « mmov ON FREE VIEW AT THE AMERICAN ART GALLERIES MADISON SQUARE SOUTH, NEW YORK FROM SATURDAY, DECEMBER FIFTH UNTIL THE DATE OF SALE, INCLUSIVE THE FAMOUS ARTHUR BLACKBORNE COLLECTION TO BE SOLD ON THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY AFTERNOONS December 10th, 11th and 12th BEGINNING EACH AFTERNOON AT 2.30 o'CLOCK CATALOGUE OF THE FAMOUS BLACKBORNE Museum Collection of Laces BEAUTIFUL OLD TEXTILES HISTORICAL COSTUMES ANTIQUE JEWELRY AND FANS EXTRAORDINARY REGAL LACES RICH EMBROIDERIES ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS AND OTHER INTERESTING OBJECTS OWNED BY AND TO BE SOLD BY ORDER OF MR. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identification
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace DATS in partnership with the V&A DATS DRESS AND TEXTILE SPECIALISTS 1 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Text copyright © Jeremy Farrell, 2007 Image copyrights as specified in each section. This information pack has been produced to accompany a one-day workshop of the same name held at The Museum of Costume and Textiles, Nottingham on 21st February 2008. The workshop is one of three produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A, funded by the Renaissance Subject Specialist Network Implementation Grant Programme, administered by the MLA. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audiences. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the public. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750 -1950 Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740-1890 Front cover image: Detail of a triangular shawl of white cotton Pusher lace made by William Vickers of Nottingham, 1870. The Pusher machine cannot put in the outline which has to be put in by hand or by embroidering machine. The outline here was put in by hand by a woman in Youlgreave, Derbyshire. (NCM 1912-13 © Nottingham City Museums) 2 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Contents Page 1. List of illustrations 1 2. Introduction 3 3. The main types of hand and machine lace 5 4. -
The Lure of Lace
Bobbin lace, probably Italian, from the mid to second half of the 16th century. 55cm x 3cm. Value £175. A border of bobbin lace. Honiton c1630. 106cm x 9cm. Value £500. Machine lace edging of parrots. Early 20th century. 25cm x 6cm. Border of bobbin lace, Flemish, c1660. 99cm x 8cm. Value £280. From the Jane Page Collection. The Lure of Lace by Brenda Greysmith Initially produced as a luxury for the wealthy, lace was made by hand for centuries in Europe and introduced into England about four hundred years ago. It was not until the industrialisation of the nineteenth century, that it became available to a less well-heeled Border of densely patterned needle lace, Dutch, mid 17th century. audience while still retaining immense charm. Throughout its long 58cm x 6cm. Value £480. history lace has been made in diverse materials. Linen, wool, gold and silver, silk and horsehair were all utilised before cotton came into use after 1820. Colours included white and ecru, black and polychrome, although the dyes used for these caused the thread to rot over time and little now remains. Hand-made lace was produced by two distinct methods. Bobbin lace is a miniature form of weaving made with numerous threads each wound onto a small handle of bone or wood. Needle lace is created with a needle and a single thread. The pattern is fastened to a backing fabric, foundation threads are couched down along the lines of the design and the motifs are then filled in with rows of buttonhole stitches. Among the many varieties of English bobbin lace are the Machine lace imitating Bedfordshire lace. -
Techniques Represented in Each Pattern
(updated) November 12, 2020 Dear Customer: Thank you for requesting information about my lace instruction and supply business. If you have any questions about the supplies listed on the following pages, let me use my 36 years of lacemaking experience to help you in your selections. My stock is expanding and changing daily, so if you don't see something you want please ask. It would be my pleasure to send promotional materials on any of the items you have questions about. Call us at (607) 277-0498 or visit our web page at: http://www.vansciverbobbinlace.com We would be delighted to hear from you at our email address [email protected]. All our orders go two day priority service. Feel free to telephone, email ([email protected]) or mail in your order. Orders for supplies will be filled immediately and will include a free catalogue update. Please include an 8% ($7.50 minimum to 1 lb., $10.50 over 1 lbs.-$12.00 maximum except for pillows and stands which are shipped at cost) of the total order to cover postage and packaging. New York State residents add sales tax applicable to your locality. Payment is by check, money order or credit card (VISA, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER) in US dollars. If you are looking for a teacher keep me in mind! I teach courses at all levels in Torchon, Bedfordshire, Lester, Honiton, Bucks Point lace, Russian and more! I am happy to tailor workshops to suit your needs. Check for scheduled workshops on the page facing the order form. -
The Newsletter for the Principality of Cynagua, Kingdom of the West—May Coronet (2017)
Cover Photo Credit To: Ghislaine d'Auxerre. The Newsletter for the Principality of Cynagua, Kingdom of the West—May Coronet (2017) 2 The Vox This is a list of Officers who need a deputy or a successor. Please consider volunteering; it’s a lot of fun and a great way to keep Our Principality going. Please Contact the Officers directly for more information details on how to contact them can be found in regnum at the back of the Vox. Arts & Sciences: Deputy Chronicler: Deputy Constable: Successor/Deputy Copper Spoon: Successor ASAP Lists: Deputy/Successor Minister of the Bow: Successor/Deputy Seneschal: Deputy Regalia: Deputy Youth Point Minister: Successor/Deputy ASAP Needleworker’s Guild: Successor/Deputy (see Michaela or Clarice for details) The Vox 3 From the Prince and Princess of Cynagua Greetings unto Cynagua, We welcome you to our Coronet tourney. Saturday will be filled with games and classes on the Eric, followed by a large potluck. We would love it if everyone would join us and bring a dish to share. Then please join us for an evening of fun, dancing and merry making at the Casbah. Our gracious List Mistress has agreed to open the lists on Saturday afternoon for two hours, then reopen on Sunday at 8:00 am and close at 10:00 am sharp. Sunday shall be the day of the Coronet Tourney. Starting with fourth round you may not repeat the same weapon style two rounds in a row. This is to encourage fighters to use more than just one style of fighting. -
Research Questions for Secondary Students
Research questions for secondary students Early history of lace 6. Name the three distinct styles of lace which emerged in Europe from the 16th century onwards. 7. Which 17th century Flemish artist’s portraits helped make bobbin lacemaking famous? 8. In the 1660s what did France’s king, Louis XIV, do to encourage the production of high-quality French lace? 9. Where would you find lace on men’s, A flounce of Venetian, gros point needle lace, 1650 - 75 women’s and children’s clothing during the 17th century? Lace styles and techniques 10. Did men or women wear the most lace during the 17th century? 1. Identify examples of needlepoint lace, 11. When did the tradition of wearing white bobbin lace and embroidered lace wedding gowns and veils first 2. Select your facourite piece of lace: emerge? Sketch the lace 12. Why was lacemaking regarded as a Describe the lace and the materials and virtuous occupation for women in the 19th techniques used to make it. century? Find another piece which uses the 13. Explain why there were very few examples same technique as your selection of gold or silver lace in existence today. 3. Compare and contrast a piece of handmade lace with a machine-made piece that you have at home. 4. Describe Valenciennes lace. 5. What does the term ‘punto in aria’ mean? Describe this style of lace. Did you know? Weddings have been a prime occasion for wearing lace since the 18th century. The ‘traditional’ white wedding gown and veil first appeared towards the end of the 18th century and was considered essential by Detail from a church altar cloth, thought to have been the 1830s. -
Editorial Calendar 2020
PRESERVING THE LEGACY OF NEEDLEWORK Editorial Calendar 2020 There are stories to be told, and PieceWork readers want to read them. Whether it’s a personal account of a master knitter (“Bertha Mae Shipley: A Navajo Knitter”) or a well-researched article on the embroidery that adorned alms purses (“Charitably Chic: The Eighteenth-Century Alms Purse”), PieceWork is the place to share these stories. People who care about handwork and who value its past and present role in the ongoing human story are PieceWork magazine’s core audience. PieceWork explores the personal stories of traditional makers and what they made and investigates how specific objects were crafted and the stories behind them. In-depth how-to techniques and step-by-step projects make the traditions come alive for today’s knitters, embroiderers, lacemakers, and crocheters. Beginning with the magazine’s inception in 1993, we have explored numerous needlework traditions and needleworkers. We’ve covered the prosaic—mending samplers—and the esoteric—the Pearly Kings and Queens of London. The stories have been poignant—the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire; inspiring—Safe Return Mittens; and entertaining—Rattlesnake Kate. Beginning with the Fall 2018 issue, PieceWork changed frequency from a bimonthly publication to a quarterly. The biggest bonus with this change was the addition of more editorial pages, allowing us to continue and expand upon PieceWork’s unusual blend of the elements behind a handwork tradition—who did it, how it was done, and why. Future issues will include core sections for techniques, including knitting, lace, embroidery, and crochet. Beyond these sections, there will be a wide variety of other needlework techniques. -
Common Types of Lace
CAMEO: Conservation and Art Materials Encyclopedia Online at cameo.mfa.org Common Types of Lace Lace type characteristics examples characteristics needlepoint Expensive, handmade lace. The pattern is typically Venetian point Floral pattern with regular open-worked fibers sketched on parchment then stitched onto two pieces on linen. Solid parts are filled in by a needle. A knife is rose point Similar to Venetian point but made in Belgium passed between parchment and linen to release lace. point de Gaze) th First made in the 15 century. Alencon Designs include flowers, birds, and vases. Background is hexagonally shaped mesh of double-twisted thread pillow An inexpensive, but fine quality lace made by twisting Cluny Coarse, strong, distinguished by paddles or wheels (bobbin) and knotting treads into pattern. Intricate patterns can use up to 1000 bobbins. Invented by Barbara Uttman in Chantilly Delicate lace made in silk or unbleached cotton with double ground. Germany in 1561. Patterns include vases, baskets and flowers. Torchon Stout, simple, inexpensive patterns. Coarse ground with loosely woven threads. Called beggar's lace Maltese Characterized by geometric designs like Maltese crosses and wheat stalks Valenciennes (Val) French Val uses a diamond shape background and very intricate patterns. Brussels Fine lace. Ground is worked around previously made pattern Mechline Delicate lace with fine threads. Ground pattern woven with flowers, buds. Similar to Brussels Honiton Beautiful designs made in flower patterns (thistle, rose) on a net ground Duchesse Fine, net ground with raised work patterns crocheted Handmade with crochet hook; not as fine as needlepoint Irish Many patterns made with crochet hook with coarser thread than needlepoint lace. -
New England Lace Group Library Inventory
New England Lace Group Library Inventory May 2011 BOOKS Bobbin Lace Manuals and Skills Bellon, Brigitte. 1980. Klöppeln: ein kleiner Lehrgang. Stuttgart: Frech-Verlag. 47 pp and a pattern card. Dye, Gilian. 1998. Finishing & Mounting Lace. The Elviston Press. 30 pp. Cook, Bridget M. 1997. Practical Skills in Bobbin Lace. London, England:B.T. Batsford Ltd. 208 pp. [dondated by Carolyn Wetzel] Dye, Gilian. 1986. Beginning Bobbin Lace. New York: Dover Publications. 96 pp. [one copy donated by Carolyn Hastings] Foley, Ellen, and Peggy Anne Streep, Ed. 1977. The Golden Book of Hand & Needle Arts. New York: Golden Press. 160 pp. Great Lakes Lace Group, Inc. 1999. Teacher Certification Program, 2nd Ed.. Great Lakes Lace Group, Inc., 26 pp (single-sided).Harang, Marni. (undated) Mounting Workbook. private published. 21 pp. Glös, Hildegard.2010. Spinnen, Spinnen, Spinnen. Barbara Fay Verlag, Gammelby 2010.40pp. Kliot, Kaethe and Jules. 1973. Bobbin Lace. Form by the Twisting of Cords. Crown Publishers, Inc. New York. 243 pp. Kurella, Elizabeth M. 2001. Anybody can Mend Lace and Linens. Plainwell, MI: The Lace Merchant. 128 pp. Löhr, Ulrike. 2000. Der Anfang vom Ende / The Beginning of the End. Stuttgart: Frech Verlag. 144 pp. Maidment, Margaret. 1931 (1978 reprint). A Manual of Hand-made Bobbin Lace Work. Piccadilly: Paul P. B. Minet. x + 184 pp. Mincoff, Elizabeth, and Margaret S. Marriage. 1907/1972. Pillow Lace: A practical hand-book. Chicheley: Paul P. B. Minet. xii + 231 pp. + two large pattern sheets. OIDFA. 2000. Point Ground Lace: a comparative study. Rugby, UK: Organisation Internationale de la Dentelle au Fuseau et a l‘Aiguille.