Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Boston Library Consortium IVIember Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/dictionaryofneed03caul THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK GUIPURE D'ART. macram£ MODERN POINT. DEDICATED TO H.R.H. PRINCESS LOUISE. MARCHIONESS OF LORNE. THE DimiOIlJiW OF I^EEDIiEtflO^I^, ENCYCLOPEDIA OE AETISTIC, PLAIN, AND EANCY NEEDLEWORK, DEALING FULLY WITH THE DETAILS OF ALL THE STITCHES EMPLOYED, THE METHOD OF WOEKING. THE MATERIALS USED, THE MEANING OF TECHNICAL TEEMS, AND, WHERE NECESSARY, TRACING THE ORIGIN AND HISTORY OF THE VARIOUS WORKS DESCRIBED. ILLUSTRATED WITH UPWARDS OF 1200 WOOD ENGRAVINGS, AND COLOURED PLATES. PLAIN SEWING, TEXTILES, DRESSMAKING, APPLIANCES, AND TERMS, By S. E. a. CAULEEILD, Aitthor of "Side Nursiiin at Some," "Desmond," "Avencle," and Papers on Needlework in "TIte Queen," "Girl's Own Paper," "Cassell's Domestic Dictionary," tC-c. CHURCH EMBROIDERY, LACE, AND ORNAMENTAL NEEDLEWORK, By blanche C. SAWAED, AiUhoi- of ''Church Festival Decorations," and Papers on Fancy and Art Work in "The Bazaar," ''Artistic Amusementu," '^Girl's Own Paper," tfcc. Division 1 1 1 .— E m b to K n i . SECOND EDITION. LONDON: A. W. COWAN, 30 AKD 31, NEW BEIDGE STREET. LUDGATE CIRCUS. LONDON: PRINTED BY A. BRADLEY, 170, '^/?.^'?-^Y : THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. 193 and it is sometimes vavied in tlio manuoi- illustrated in of the leaf in rows of large Back Stitches, and pad Fig. 376, where it fills in with int. i-ia.va sdtri,,.; f^i.le the left hand with perpendicular runnings, giving the of the leaf, of -which the other greatest height near the centre is worked in Back Stitch, the veins. Work horizontal hues of outline is Overcast, and the Satin Stitch over this padding. centre vein in a series of Eye- The handsomest manner of using let-holes. To work : Work a Raised Satin Stitoh is in Relief row of Satin Stiich, and Embroidery executed with it in miss the space one stitch combination with other Embroi- wonld fill between every dery Stitches. This consists in stitch. For the next row, Embroidering detached pieces of fill in these spaces with a material, and attaching these to Satin Stitch, and carry each Fi< Flat Satin, OvEnCAST, the main part of the work, so that Eyelet, and Back Stitcues. stitch beyond the ones made they stand out and above the flat in loft in the second the first row. Fill in the spaces Fic. 379. EA13ED Satin, Embroidery. Fig. 380 is a design Back, and Overcast row with a third row of stitches, carried beyond as before, of Bluebell so Stitches, a worked, when and work in this manner until the leaf is filled in. finished, and the Details A and Another variety of Satin Stitch is made by working a B (Pigs. 381, 382) show the manner of execution, which long and a short Satin Stitch alternately. This is vised consists of embroidering the material, and sewing over for working small rose lea\'es, or any leaves that are that an extra piece of work. To work : Trace the out- slightly ii-regular in outline. Raised Satin Stitch, also known as Point Plumetis and French Plumetis, is more difficult of execution than flat Satin Stitch. It is worked over a padded foundation, thus Trace the outline of the design, run it round with a thread, and till in the parts to be raised with a padding of run threads. ,!Run these so that they a^e thick and solid in the centre of the Embroidery, and graduate down on both sides ; or run them so that they are raised on one side and graduated down upon the other, according to the design, and work in these lines in :in opposite direction to the Fig. 3S1. Kaised Satin Stitch —Bluebell—Detail A. Fia. :i77. Kaised Satin Stitch. line of Detail A upon the main work, and Overcast the stitch that is to cover them. Fig. 377 shows a Raised Satin petals and their points, as shown in that illustration. Trace petal with the padding raised on one side and sloped down upon a detached piece of material the outline of Detail B, to the other, and with hoi'izontal runnings worked over ^ and Buttonhole all the outline in very fine stitches; work the petals and the two horizontal lines in Raised Satin, and pad them so that they are most raised in the centre. In the detail one petal is left unfinished, to Fig. 378. Ka 3ED Satin Stitch. show the lines of padding; with a slanting stitch taken from left to right ; while Fig. the rest are covered with 378 illustrates a padded petal raised in the centre and Overcast. Fill in the body graduated to the sides, the runnings put in horizontally, of the Bluebell with large VII D. and the covering stitches in an upright direction. Raised Back Stitches worked in Satin Stitoh is rarely used to fill in the whole of a even rows. Cut out the p)iece of Embroidery, and stitch design, but is combined with other Embroidery stitches. it on to the main part of work where the dotted lines are Fig. 379 gives a leaf executed in three stitches : Back, shown in Detail A. The piece of detached Embroidery Overcast, and Raised Satin. To work : Outline the leaf is larger than the flat part of the flower, and will stand in Overcast, run a cord as a pad under the veins of the up from the rest of the work where not attached to the leaf, and Overcast this cord ; then work the right-hand side main body of it. : 194 THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. A variety of Raised Satin is known as Point de Plume. the square, and finish it in the centre of the square ; work It is used in combination witli Satin and other stitclies, the next stitch from the top right-hand corner of the aiid consists of leaving imworked upon tte petals of square into the centre, and take the two remaining stitches flowers and leaves the parts intended to indicate the from the two bottom corners of the square into the centre veins ; it is illustrated in Fig. in the same manner. 383. To work : Trace the de- Stem Stitch.—See Crewel Stitch. sign, hut leave out the markings Tambour Stitch.—See Chain Stitch. of the veins. Fill iu the petals Tapestry Stitch.—See Gohelin Stitch. run lines, leave the veins with Tassel Stitch.—A stitch used to make a looped fringe quite clear, and mn the padding as an edging to Embroideries. To work : Double the in so that the parts nearest the thread and bring the needle up from the back, hold the veins and centre of fl(3wer are thread down with the left thumb to the length of an inch, the most raised. Work straight put the needle in on the right-hand side of where it came lines of Satin Stitch over out, but on the same line, make a horizontal stitch fi-om vai-y tlieir this padding, and right to left at the back, bring it out under where it first follow contour du-ectiou to the came up, and draw up, keeping the left thumb on the J, ,, , 1 XT lOO „ PiQ. 383. POIST DE Pldme of petals. Fig. o66 repre- the Stitcb. thread, so as not to draw it up beyond the inch held down. in Point sents a flower worked Make a Ciioss Stitch over the top of the loop. When DE Plume, with the veins marked with a black line; the the edge is covered with a line of loops cut their ends. of flower is filled with three Etelet-holes centre the Tent Stitch.—-Also known as Petit Point, and used for stamens, and the calyx is enclosed with fine Over- in Berlin Work, and in Embroidery upon solid materials, cast, and filled in with Back Stitch. such as silk and cloth. It is a succession of small Satin Stitch. Stitch. Shi'g Ladder —See Ladder Stitches worked in even lines, and in a slanting direction, Spanish Stitch. This stitch is of two kinds, one — from left to right. To work : Trace a horizontal line upon where a Cross Stitch is worked on the face of the the material, bring the needle up from the back upon this material and a square on the back ; and the other, where line, and put it down again to the back, slightly above the a cross enclosed in a square is at the front, and a square line, and in a slant from left to right. Continue to make at the back. They are only worked when both sides of these small slanting stitches close together, and all of the the material are required to be neat. To work the Cross same height, until the line is filled; then draw a line Stitch: Make an ordinary Cross Stitch, making the underneath the first one, a shoi't distance from it, and back stitches the tojp and bottom lines of a square. Re- fill this line in the same way; work the top of the new cross the first stitch, and bring the needle out in front, line of stitches on the bottom of the fii-st line, and in ready to begin the next stitch ; three lines of the square between those first made. at the back are made with each Cross, but they fit into Ti'te de BcBuf Stitch.—The name of this stitch is each other, so as to form squares as the work proceeds. derived from its shape, the two upper stitches having the To work the second kind : Make a square of stitches in appearance of horns, and the lower ones of an animal's the front of the material, and work a Ceoss Stitch in head.